HK 41" Vanquish with CC 1717 1y 1580 Kv on 6s 2p I hope

[tryinotocrash]

So Hello. I have some of this posted in another thread looking for help and advice,I am new to FE boats .I built a couple of nitro boats 20 plus years ago, I do fly electric so not ignorant but this is all different. So I see Diesel has this same setup and has it for sale. Looks good.
76694766917669276693
So I have several props to try this weekend I currently have the T180 esc in there until I figure out how to program or use the fighter cat with my current setup. I picked up three graupner props to start with until I figure out a good size to start with. They are 2317.45, 48, and 51.
Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Mark

[Make-a-Wake]

I'd run an x447 or an x448

[tryinotocrash]

Yes one of these are really close to the x447. I just bought the cheaper ones to try and see before I buy some good ones.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thats the way to do it, test with cheapo's and buy the good ones that will work.

[Grazacind]

You may have to straighten the bottom out to get it to run correctly. Not a big job but an important one.

[Jesse J]

just my impression, but sounds pretty high kv for that size hull... I am running 10S2P on a castle 2028 in my 45" AM XXX hull and pulling 180-200 amps continuous...
your the esc sounds marginal to seriously not enough. not sure what your goals are, but this combo sounds at the upper limit of "just about to smoke"...

[tryinotocrash]

Grazacind can you explain just a little what you mean by straighten the bottom out.
Jesse J yes it is on the high side but I have seen several this size with a similar setup different ESC run in the high 50 mph range. I hope to keep the smoke in with prop choice ;-) keep em coming please..

[Make-a-Wake]

With an x448 he'll pull around 130a constant.

[Grazacind]

Grazacind can you explain just a little what you mean by straighten the bottom out.
..

The bottom most likely will have a hook to some extent. Using a good straight edge like a metal ruler lay along the from the transom forward. Slide the ruler the ruler sideways towards the gunwal see how flat the bottom is.

If you have a dip then there is hook in the bottom. Fill it in thin stages then sand, then fill then sand, then fill and so on. It does make a big difference having a straight bottom.

[carlcisneros]

on the fightercat esc, if you have not done so already, order the programming box from them and be done with it.
once it is hooked up to the ESC, it takes about 15 sec. to program.

[Jesse J]

The bottom most likely will have a hook to some extent. Using a good straight edge like a metal ruler lay along the from the transom forward. Slide the ruler the ruler sideways towards the gunwal see how flat the bottom is.

If you have a dip then there is hook in the bottom. Fill it in thin stages then sand, then fill then sand, then fill and so on. It does make a big difference having a straight bottom.

A word of caution: run your boat first to see how she handles, regardless of how the bottom looks. I have seen examples where hooks were removed and the boat performed much worse. My Titan 40 is not "supposed" to have a hook; it does and it runs beautifully!

[Diesel6401]

I'm actually not running (or planning on running I should say if the boat doesn't sale) 6s2p anymore. The amp draw was too high. With a x447/3 and Ice 240 w/ data logging the spikes where more then I first thought they would be (above 200+). I recommend not going that route and def not with a 200amp speedo. When I get off work I think I have the data-logging saved on file (not 100% sure but I can check). If the hull doesn't sale I will run 5s2p. With your esc I believe 4s2p is just fine and maybe (not sure) 5s2p (would be pushing it)..

[tryinotocrash]

Cool thanks. I do have 2 two cells an 2 three cells I was going to hook up and try it with as 2 5s setup. You think that would work? They are all 5000 mah batteries. I saw your video. Looks good. I do have the fighter cat 200 amp.

[tryinotocrash]

Could someone recommend a motor for this setup for 6s 2p ? Be specific please. And will iy bolt up same as the 1717 castle ?

[jkr]

Try a leo 4082 1600kv or 4092 1480kv.
I prefer the 4092 1480kv.

[tryinotocrash]

That confuses me more :) I thought my Kvs were too high already at 1580 ?

[Jesse J]

well, I think you could save yourself the widely ranging suggestions if you could state your objectives.
I am assuming sport, but do you want to see how fast you can get it in a straight line? or are you wanting something to tool around for the duration of your batteries?
The problem with the Leos is the heat. I run the 4092 1730 on 4S in my cat and it gets up to 140F in a lap... If you wanted to go 6S, I would go even lower - to the 1390KV and assuming the Y wind is similar meaning as with the Neus, the 2Y should pull fewer amps. This would probably be a good option for you, but I agree that 200amp esc is a bare minimum.

[Diesel6401]

well, I think you could save yourself the widely ranging suggestions if you could state your objectives.
I am assuming sport, but do you want to see how fast you can get it in a straight line? or are you wanting something to tool around for the duration of your batteries?
The problem with the Leos is the heat. I run the 4092 1730 on 4S in my cat and it gets up to 140F in a lap... If you wanted to go 6S, I would go even lower - to the 1390KV and assuming the Y wind is similar meaning as with the Neus, the 2Y should pull fewer amps. This would probably be a good option for you, but I agree that 200amp esc is a bare minimum.

Agreed with the 1390 and I also do perfer the Y wind motor myself.

[martin]

Yes i went with the 4092 - 1390kv on 6s in an 41" Osprey as i wanted a y wind as well & run bigger props with the lower kv, Have yet to run the boat yet though.

[tryinotocrash]

Yes fun and speed. Nobody here races this class I was told so FUN !

[jkr]

You can get decent speed and run time with a Leo 4082 1600kv with x447 but 6s1p.
A 2p configuration is a 1kg more and it is a huge difference!
I'll search the video for it as i remember was running a t180.
Couldn't find with t180.Check this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOhKwGeulwg

With 6s1p x447 you can go even faster than the video.

[Diesel6401]

I just realized that this is the Vanquish hull, didn't fully read the Topic. I have the Osprey hull and purchased it after I sold my Vanquish, and it is much better of a hull then the Vanquish. Prob not the post you want to read, but I have to be honest about it and I hope they're better then when I had mine. Good luck to you.

[martin]

Yes the Vanquish hull does suffer from a bad hook towards the rear of the hull which sticks it to the water & runs very wet, easy to fix depending on how deep the hook is though by filling the bottom of the hull untill its flat.

[tryinotocrash]

I will check that today after work. I can fix it if it is jacked up :) I will make this run because it is my only boat for now !

[tryinotocrash]

76797767987679976800
Has anyone had these side by side to see the difference? They look suspiciously similar to me :spy:
I didn't buy mine from HK I got it from someone local who "builds" boats.:doh:

[Diesel6401]

76797767987679976800
Has anyone had these side by side to see the difference? They look suspiciously similar to me :spy:
I didn't buy mine from HK I got it from someone local who "builds" boats.:doh:

They're not the same, I've owned both. The Osprey is leaps and bounds better made with thicker fiberglass and just all around a better hull. Ben (fightercat) had both as well and took some side-by-side images noting the differences. When the hull/hardware option (Vanquish) came available many including myself assumed it was the same hull as the Osprey we were wrong! The Osprey is a TFL hull (makers of the Pursuit and Prince as well as the Genesis and other) and is a great hull.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

[Brushless55]

well, I think you could save yourself the widely ranging suggestions if you could state your objectives.
I am assuming sport, but do you want to see how fast you can get it in a straight line? or are you wanting something to tool around for the duration of your batteries?
The problem with the Leos is the heat. I run the 4092 1730 on 4S in my cat and it gets up to 140F in a lap... If you wanted to go 6S, I would go even lower - to the 1390KV and assuming the Y wind is similar meaning as with the Neus, the 2Y should pull fewer amps. This would probably be a good option for you, but I agree that 200amp esc is a bare minimum.

I have the 2080kv of that motor..
how big is the cat your running yours in Jesse, seems kinda warm?
thanks

[tryinotocrash]

:biggrin: So it went well today was able to get some testing done this morning to see how to proceed. Nobody else was there so I was on my own to see how to proceed. I was able to get some full throttle passes and it moves out pretty good on 2 five cells.. I really needs to have the stinger adjusted because I have all the weight to the back and it still pushes the nose down pretty hard.
So I have the Graupner 45mm 2317.45 prop on it and the temps were real good. The Esc was 89 degrees and the batteries were around 80 degrees the caps were the same as batteries. This was after I ran it and adjusted the batteries and ran it several times to adjust batteries then I ran it around the lake four or five laps and checked the temps. I didn't adjust the stinger yet because I only have two five cells for now so I left to take some pictures of the bottom with a straightedge and the placement of components inside the boat. The T-180 did just fine today. 768397684076841
Here is the bottom of the boat How does it look? small amount of dish in the bottom but not much. Is there a specific angle for the stinger this one seems to be tipped down instead of a little up. I will get a better picture of where it is now and repost.. Thanks to everyone who has helped out I need all the help I can get. :wink:

[Grazacind]

Mate I filled mine that had about the same hook. It becomes more noticable the faster you go.

[carlcisneros]

start with the stinger at a zero (0) degrees setting, THEN if you need to adjust it up or
down you can.

[martin]

You need to check for hook further out in the wide flat area of the hull.

[Diesel6401]

My Vanquish always submarined when I got hard on the throttle, no amount of stinger adjustment fixed it, because the stinger sat below the transom. I would have needed to remove the stinger and stuffing tube fill the hole and re-drill the stinger in the proper location. Then I thought well if I'm doing that I may as well gut it, fill the whole transom in then re-drill and fit all the hardware. I didn't do all of that though because the boat had already pissed me off enough and I lost a brand new x450 prop and .187 cable in the bottom of the pond screwing around with that dang thing. I freaking hated that boat!

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

[tryinotocrash]

Grazacind what did you use for filler? I don't really want to use body filler because fiberglass and bondo expand and contract at different rates and can crack. I could get some fiberglass material that is like a gell. Also any thoughts here on an auto bailer? Does anybody use them? I had them on my boats years ago and had no issues. I sealed the tube on the transom with o-rings and silicone and put a piece of tube on the flex shaft so it rides on the liner but still getting some water inside. Could be leaking from the cooling can on the motor, I had to double o-ring that on both sides because of leakage.. So I put in an autobailer..

[Grazacind]

Autobailer: Typically we dont use them. Seal em up tight and your good to go. Water could be coming back up via the flex shaft. A little bit sponge helps sometimes.

Filler: I use an epoxy filler and do it in thin layers. This saves on sanding and gives you a good cure.

It is also good to sharpen the transom edge to cut down drag.

[tryinotocrash]

Like epoxy and micro baloons?? I guess it should be flat as far as I can get it . Diesel , Tell me how you really feel:thumbup1: I take it in your opinion the flattening would be a waste of time unless I move the stinger setup up some ? I really have nothing to loose at this point. I plan on using this whole thing as a learning experiance so Here I go learning:rockon2: I do appreciate everyone who has taken the time to give advice , I understood from the onset when I asked these questions I could get a wide variety of advice. Keep it coming I am not giving up on it yet , there will be more boats,I just started building a Dumas kit of the 1949 Chris-Craft racing runabout. No it won't be a Fast Electric but fun for sure.
I have built a lot of airplanes and a few boats years ago but the glass almost ready to run stuff is new to me..
Before I buy another Fast Electric boat you can bet I will be researching and asking questions here..
Should I start another build thread for the Chris-Craft?

[martin]

I use good old body filler on my hulls & never had any problems at all, also nice & easy to sand & get flat. Epoxy mixed with various filler fibres can be a nightmare to sand & take much longer to dry & go really hard. Body filler is dry in 15 minuets & ready to apply more layers & sand in between layers.

[tryinotocrash]

Yes I used to paint cars uears ago. I love body filler. I will look into some fillers and see. Good point about the epoxy but with enough microballons in it it would work too. Maybe I will try it on something else to test sanding.

[tryinotocrash]

Well after making adjustment and changing c g and prop I got my best feel for this Fast Electric boat deal tody :laugh: Boat was doing well with the octura test prop 48mm but then it couldn't take the pressure :biggrin: prop cracked under the load. So I put a pro boat prop 1.9"X 3.0" on it and MAN what a BIG difference ,this prop brought the WHOLE boat out of the water and just flew around the lake..:rockon2: Thanks to all who have helped with your suggestions . I hope to get some video soon there was a guy there taking some video of me blasting around, it was windy today so the chop was bigger. The boat needs the stinger adjusted back to zero now because I was adjusting it up to try to get it moving and that went well. But with this prop it is now Really Fast and loose. I may run it again before I adjust it when it is calmer outside and the water is smoother.
National Hobbies of Chandler has a lake right behind there shop and they are staring to have some boat days on Saturdays. Today was the first one and I went,was fun having some more boats to run with.. I Think I am hooked. So now I guess I need another boat so I can have more fun. Ideas for next boat? I am thinking those Fighter Cat Cats are the shiz! could be my next boat? Or the Motley Crew or the Mrs. Geico? What you think? I think they have a class of raceing for the smaller cats here in Chandler, not sure?

[tryinotocrash]

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=420432857978500 not sure if this will work but best I can do for now ;-) Mine is the second boat in the video. Was a good day I need to get some good video for show and tell.. Let me know what you think??

[Wizliz]

Wow tryintocrash! Your Vanquish sure is flying!!! :banana: Can you please link to the exact prop you are running now?

My Vanquish is not doing so good and after several attempts and tweaks i have not been able to get it up to the proper speed... :confused1:

Here is a clip from last night after i had done some adjustments on stinger, trimtabs and battery location (moving them to the back of the boat)


http://youtu.be/iiT-2pU-ZjQ

How it vent? Well lets say that my bathing season was two months earlier than anticipated...

[lenny]

Hi,
What is your setup and what prop are you using in the video ?
It look like it was sinking very slowly each pass.

[Grazacind]

The Vanquish has a big hook in the bottom which should be fixed to get it to run well. What size motor are you running also.

[Wizliz]

Hi

Specs as follows:

Batteries: 2x3S @ 5000mAh http://bit.ly/xmc1w1
BESC: Turnigy Marine 180A http://bit.ly/zTzfpO
Prop: TJM Offshore propeller CNC milled out of 7075 aluminium. Diameter 48mm 3-blade 3/16" hole http://bit.ly/JmuR3B
Engine: Leopard LBP4082-B-1600KV-2Y http://bit.ly/AA6uKI

I just found and bought the "pro boat 1.9" x 3.0" prop" on eBay, hope it is the same as mentioned before. However since the Vanquish hull is more or less like a banana in the rear... I guess i will have to fill it up and sand it even. Perhaps it´s time for HK to withdraw and refund this modell before more beginners like my falls into the same trap!...

If this lake had been made of cream it would have been butter by now... :olleyes:

[tryinotocrash]

I don't have a link but I suppose I could find one for the prop. Sounds like you found it. it is a pro boat 1.9x3.0" I bought it from the hobby shop after the octura plastic prop cracked under pressure. One question for you , how much water is in your boat when you pull it from the water? And I am running two 5cell 5000 mah batteries for a total of 10,000 mah and decent run times if I don't stay full throttle the entire time that does not mean I am running it slow because that is not good for the esc. After the runs I checked the temps and nothing was over 100 degrees, bats were 85 degrees esc was 98 and motor was 90 degrees mind you it was 85 degrees outside so temps were good. There was a lot of chop too so that may have helped. I went out the next day and the lake was like glass and it ran just as well so I didn't adjust anything. Check the bottom of your boat for the hook that has been mentioned here.
So it looks like your motor is capable of 33volts! Why are you trying to run on three cell 12 volts?? Or are you running 24 volts 1p? I think you need to up the voltage.:rockon2:
Let me know how it goes, I am interested. I am convinced these boats are not junk as has been stated. Nest step for me is to Carbon fibre the inside floor and build a respectable motor mount and get rid of the bent aluminum setup. Well that is after I get myself another boat so I am not boatless:biggrin:

[tryinotocrash]

So I watched your whole video. Sorry man it looks like you got serious issues here. I don't think more cells will help your boat. I sould most definately check the bottom of the boat. My boat had some of the issues you are seeing but not as bad, it would just run with the nose down a bit. This prop made a big difference it seemed to lift the rear of the boat. I hope you get this worked out I know it can be frustrating.

[Wizliz]

Hello ttc. :)

Thank you for reply. Yes i am running on 6S (two 3S in series) the first four minutes in the video, sorry for beeing unclear. Second half (at 3:55) i am trying with smaller 4S (two 2S in series). My cooling is working very well and temperature is around 35-40 degrees celsius. Since yesterday i have received many tips and ideas on what todo, first thing i am going to try is to shorten the water inlet tube so that only a few mm is below the hull. As it is now it is almost 1,5cm below the hull and this might be what is causing the nose dive as it is causing drag. Several "boaters" have pointed this out to me. Will fix this today then well see if that helps...

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8632/20120514193116.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/20120514193116.jpg/)

Unfortunally weather is not so good atm so it might take a few days before i can test my boat again. Also i need to figure out a way to avoid radio interference for my rescue boat since it loose contact when other 2.4GHz radios are On... I certainly dont want to go swimming again, like i did sunday, after all it is still May and not long ago it was ice on the lake...

My motor mount is stock, if you like you can check my "Optimizing Vanquish Video (http://youtu.be/BbfYzNIbRGk)" where i show the inside of my Vanquish and how i got it (almost) water tight with silicone at the backside and at the transom. It still gets a few drops of water through the shaft, but it is not a biggie.

I almost lost my boat when i did the maiden run, had very much water inside and i got affraid that i might loose all hw in a short out with a loud POFF... Thankfully everything survived and i decided to make that video so that others could avoid making the same misstake as i did. Before every run i allways tape down my hatch incase i get nose dives or flips upside down.

Will keep you posted. :)

Have a nice day :smile:

[Remmie81]

Wizliz,

That waterpickup will definately slow down the hull and cause drag on the left side of the hull.
Ive tested with such a waterpickup on my gas-engine boat. I only had it 1,5mm sticking underneath the hull and cost me approx 3-5km's of top speed.
Maybe you can make a prop blast pickup, that will give you the cooling you need and you will not have the drag/speed loss from the current waterpickup.

2nd thing I see on your picture are your trimtabs. It looks like they are flat with the bottom. This will cause the boat to run wet (and because of that it will have a lower topspeed and could give handling problems on straight and in turns (bow is pushed down))
The best thing to do is raise them 1,5mm were you mount them. Then set them to neutral position and drive your boat and see what a difference it will make.

Hope these tips will help you making your boat faster!

[martin]

You need to check a few things on your set up ie how much hook is in the hull, is the stinger down at the prop end (set to neutral), set tabs at neutral & up from the hull bottom as Remmie said. Where is your cg, a starting point on this hull would be around 12.5" or 316mm in from the transome ie 30%. This is all assuming you dont have motor or esc problems of some sort.

[Wizliz]

THANK YOU GUYS!!! :banana:

As per your advice i have adjusted and i just got home from a test run. Boat is moving much better now and i have just finished uploading a small clip where you can see the difference. But i think that there is still room for improvement. I noticed that at high speeds it starts to wobble a bit sideways, i hope something can be done about that aswell. Batteries are not "where they should be" ie at CoG 30%. I am thinking that i should probably try that setup one more time, to see if things have improved there aswell.


http://youtu.be/zlUUol0HlRI?hd=1

Now i can go to bed having a good nights sleep. Ohhh and yes, yesterday I forgot to say thank you TryingToCrash for letting me "borrow" your Vanquish thread. Hope you dont mind.

Cheers!

[Basstronics]

Stupid question- is your driveline free? If there is tension or pressure on the cable at some point it could cause enough drag to slow her down.

[tryinotocrash]

That is a little better for sure. Still stuffing the nose too much and you have low rpm not churning and burning like it should. The bottom of the trim plates should be up from the bottom of the hull by a couple of MM meaning you should be able to measure from the hull bottom to the bottom of the plate where it meets the hull and there should be a gap so that when the boat is on plane trim plates don't touch the water .As described by Remmie. Also when you get the other prop on the boat you will see a difference of lift I hope . I don't understand how you could be at 25 volts and the motor isn't sounding like you are anywhere near 40000 rpm ,according to your motor specs if you were running 25.2 volts you should be getting 40000 rpms. I don't want to sound like I don't believe you but you have two 3cells positive to negative then one positive and one negative from each battery to the esc?? Oh and no sweat on the thread jacking life is short and we are all here for the same reason , to help and get help.. Oh and don't forget to grease your flex cable frequently as well. Grease it often.. Mark

[tryinotocrash]

You beat me I was typing :buttrock:

[Wizliz]

Stupid question- is your driveline free? If there is tension or pressure on the cable at some point it could cause enough drag to slow her down.

Hmm you might be on to something there Basstronic! Yesterday i noticed that there are tiny speckles of metall inside the boat. Perhaps my driveline is to tight? What is the recommended fitting "tightness" for the driveline?

Regarding my trim tabs, it would require demounting and then some Dremmel tool to make the holes/slides longer since they are allready at their highest setting. Will get right on it.

As for power i am using my Traxxas acks and standard Traxxas serial connector same as in my E-revo so it is 6S@5000mAh.

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/174/6sinseries.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/214/6sinseries.jpg/)

I have another two identical acks, and my plan was to eventually test out 2x3S in serial + 2x3S in serial and then parallell for 6S with 10000mAh instead of 5000mAh in above picture. But not until i get the boat running better (two parallell connectors to one serial) That is if cables does not melt and the Vanquish can handle the extra weight (1.6KG instead of 800gr) LOL. But one thing at a time... :smile:

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8069/20120530140825.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/20120530140825.jpg/)

Best regards
Magnus

[Remmie81]

Hi Magnus,

Yes please remove the trimtabs and adjust the holes. If you can mount them 1,5mm higher then the bottom that will make a huge difference.
Just make sure they are at a 90degree angle looking from your transom. So in other words: Set neutral.
Then drive your boat again (but be carefull as it can handle very different). When it runs too loose, adjust the tabs with the adjust screw and set them a little bit lowe. (like half a mm) and test again untill you get the result you want.

Good luck!

[martin]

Ive just noticed the prop you have on their, is that the prop you have been using during testing. A 48mm 3 blader is way to much prop which is keeping the rpm down & not letting the boat come up out of the water. Much improved though on your earlier set up though after some good set up tips.

[Wizliz]

Update...

Good news! Today i received the chinese made pro boat prop i ordered a week ago from US. Rather good delivery times compared to ordering from asia... :-) I also beleive that basstronic was SPOT ON on what was causing the bad performance!

To start with the shaft adapter was way too tight against the water cooled motor mount so i have adjusted that (it has grinded metall!). Secondly the plastic (teflon?) tube inside the brass tube was too long so when accellerating i beleive that the shaft adapter was grinding against the plastic tube causing a slowdown (see below Pic 1) and also made the plastic/teflon tube to rotate inside brass tube which caused friction that slowed the boat down considerably.


Pic 1 Before
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6012/20120604103906.th.jpg

(http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/259/20120604103906.jpg/)Pic 2 After
http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/3968/20120604104238.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/860/20120604104238.jpg/)

I also made sure to "lube it up" real good since i had noticed metall fragments and that the flex shaft tube was very hot!...

Went down to the lake and was hopeing for a good run.

Then it happend...
(here comes the bad news)
The flex shaft snapped! I suspect this happend due to that the flex shaft tubing was loose due to bad factory mounting which in turn caused the whole tube to wiggle/roll around inside the boat and that made the flex shaft unstable and it snapped within a second!... :doh:

Now the flex shaft tube is looking like the end of a trumpet!... Dont know if that is cause for a total change of the flex shaft tube aswell. Anyways i have ordered a new flex shaft and some super lube so now i have to wait for that to arrive and then i have to figure out how to replace and fasten the new flex shaft to the shaft adapter. I have all this spectacle on video but have not been so eager to upload it, since it contains some "salty swedish language"... perhaps later when i have edited some of the :cursing:...

[tryinotocrash]

Well Wizliz the saga continues. Those flex shafts are not very good to start with. Go to OSE parts and get a new shaft with the hard end on it already I bought the .187 x 18" one and cut the flex off to the length I needed. You will have to file a flat on the threaded end for the drive dog and leave a .187 gap between teflon washer and stinger. I also opted for the thrust bearing between the motor and drive adapter. The new flex from OSE has bigger wires in it than the stock one so I am hoping for longer life. Sounds like we are having similar struggles. I have been having better luck now but only time will tell. Next step for me is to gut the whole boat and beef up the insides with carbon fibre cloth and a new beefy motor mount. Send a pic of the stuffing tube if you have time.

[Chuck E Cheese]

after reading this i am a little concerned. do you guys really think a 40-82 is enough motor for this hull? thats the size motor i use in a 31" hull (neu 1521)... just saying... i just recieved some parts and am going to be starting a vanquish build. i have had a brand new hull sitting around for about a year and am starting to get back into boating. the difference is i plan on using a 56-92 motor in mine.. i havent started it yet but will start a build thread and keep ya posted on how its going.. just saying, 4082, really???

[martin]

The 4082 motor is on the small size for this boat but its the easiest motor to use as well as the 4092 without major rebuilding to take something like a 5692 motor, also a lot cheaper than going to the 5692. Just depends how much money you want to spend on upgrades, having said that their have been a few on here that have used the 4082 in the Osprey (better hull in my opinion build wise) that are running 55-56mph. Ive also seen an Osprey with 5692 motor running around 50mph on here.

[martin]

The 4082 motor generally uses around a 45mm diam 2 bladed prop, the prop fitted to this boat 48mm diam 3 blade will kill the rpm on this motor.

[tryinotocrash]

So I have another short clip for you speed freaks! The boat is getting better for now, Needs a smaller prop and one is on the way that was suggested to me earlier. For now it runs great in short bursts with this prop on 5s2p. But the motor gets too warm to run for battery life. New X445 and another prop should be here this week to test out. For now see if this Utube short clip works here for me.
allowfullscreen></iframe>http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=qp24A5BEHlo

[tryinotocrash]

I ordered one of these79983 And I got some of this79984 Then I installed the Carbon Fiber cloth to stiffen the bottom and tack glued the new motor and mount in My Vanquish and am redoing the interior. I made a templatefor batteries,79987will use carbon fiber plate after I get it all layed out like I want it. I got a new stuffing tube and would like to raise the rear of the tube and stinger up. How far to move it when it ran pretty good where it is now?? see videos on this link for My boat running. 79985 Making battery tray and servo mount out of carbon fiber plate next.
Feel Free to respond , Please try to stay positive I know about the Hull and the rest of the stuff. The bottom will be adressed when the inside is up to Par. Thanks.

[Make-a-Wake]

I'd move it up and to the starboard side a bit to couteract torque steer. Here's where i'd put it.

[tryinotocrash]

How does that affect torque steer ? Is that why I can't really trim the rudder? I thought it This thing is a torquey beast for sure. I was running both 5s on the port side and was wondering If I could get them both on the plate I plan to screw in place where I have the thin plywood now in the picture. Only might have some issues with space for my servo, but I could use a bellcrank if I have to. I can move the tube easy enough now. Did you watch the short and not so good cell phone video :-)

[tryinotocrash]

Hello if anyone is still watching I have some more upgrades done. O put rails in the back 80150to bolt in a battery tray80151 this is going to hold the batteries just fine, may make a lid later or something to hold bats down. I also moved the stuffing tube to suggested area or thereabouts80152 Then I sanded the bottom and started to fill with bondo. Here is after first sanding and touch up spots ready to sand again soon.80153 Not sure if this banana boat will be good but it will have to be better than it was. And I will have the satisfaction of making it work well. I also reamed out the rudder pivot because it was crap and cut down a gage pin the right size to tighten up the slop in the rudder. I also glassed in the motor mount so things are happening. Carbon plate came from Kintek. Carbon sheet for inside came from a fiberglass supply place. Bottom is getting stiffer.80154

[iamandrew]

Hi there, is this going to put the COG too far back ?

[tryinotocrash]

Well I don't think so on the 5s I had them both all the way to the back and it ran well like that. With this hull I just kept moving them back farther to get the nose to come up so it would run better. I will have to run it to find out how it acts with some of the hook removed from the bottom.

[tryinotocrash]

80216 Here is the bottom after some sanding and primer and glazing putty and some more sanding. Working to keep the transom edge sharp, almost ready for prime and paint. I hope you guys aren't getting sick of it yet. I am hoping if this works out well I should have no problems making a GOOD boat work well.:banana: Thanks for the help and patience. :buttrock:

[Wizliz]

Hi

Good work Mark! I admire your patience and dedication! My Vanquish has been in the "drydock" since the flex shaft broke. I have replaced it and made one try after that, but it was not good so i decided to focus on something else for a while (ie planes). I will follow your progress with great interest. Keep up the good work and please keep posting pictures as you progress! :-)

[tryinotocrash]

Thanks Magnus, Things have slowed a bit . I am waiting on an ESC to return from Fighter CAT "I hope" it will anyway not real sure what the deal is ther, not had a response to an email in a few weeks. I see they have a Under new management sign now on their websight. I have finished the bottom and inside reapirs and have painted the botttom and decided to change the color of the top. Just finished the color coat today. Need to wetsand and clearcoat the whole thing next, after some decals I think. I will post when I get something goin on the ESC. It will run with the T-180 but not long enough to deplete batteries yet. If I don't get any response soon on the ESC replacement I will have to start thinking about another reciever.