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nata2run
05-15-2012, 06:44 AM
Hello Everyone,
I thought I would start this thread as I have the Carbon/Kevlar 1380mm 54" MHZ Mystic on order including hardware. Should be here next week or so. :banana:

The plan is to keep this one on a semi budget but make use of my Lehners (2250/5 D on 5s) or (2250/8.5 Wye on 8s) May be a bit on the short side but I'm not looking for TOP speed at the moment 130-150km/h. I would rather spend the time to get a nice build and paint job, and ofcause have some fun on the big lake.

I havent desided on a theme yet, but I quite like the Lehner colours for the inside of the hull (black purple & chrome) so lots of carbon, anodized aluminium & polished steel.

If anyone have any ideas, please share so we can all learn something.

bruiser77
05-15-2012, 07:58 AM
Do you have the drives yet? The new click drives are really nice! Similar to Christians drives on his turbine HPR.

bruiser77
05-15-2012, 08:03 AM
http://www.hydroworld.de/vb/showthread.php?6017-Spezial-Antriebe-quot-click-Drive-quot

nata2run
05-15-2012, 08:14 AM
Wow, those are really nice. But I already ordered the MHZ, same with the rudder, I got the scale rudder from MHZ as well
http://shop.mhz-powerboats.com/category-11/category-21/Drives---Mystic-1380mm---4-75mm.html

bruiser77
05-15-2012, 08:16 AM
I guess those will work! :)

nata2run
05-15-2012, 08:32 AM
Hmmm you should have known what was on my mind and told me yesterday lol
Man, I really like those. I couldn't figure out, do they have ball bearings installed?

nata2run
05-15-2012, 08:40 AM
Just ordered, SAVOX SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital Servo. Should be ok

bruiser77
05-15-2012, 09:13 AM
MHZ external antennas are nice, clean and removeable!

nata2run
05-15-2012, 11:56 PM
MHZ external antennas are nice, clean and removeable!
You got a link to those? - like the idea :)

battlefury
05-16-2012, 12:44 AM
These are not just ok.. they are great i have 3 of these used for my boats . Good call on the servo i would say!

nata2run
05-16-2012, 12:50 AM
These are not just ok.. they are great i have 3 of these used for my boats . Good call on the servo i would say!

Thanks Felix, I ment great :smile:

jkr
05-16-2012, 01:44 AM
Thats the appropriate length!
Definitely my next project.
:spy:

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 07:56 AM
You got a link to those? - like the idea :)

http://shop.mhz-powerboats.com/RC/Supplies/

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 07:58 AM
I'm using the small version that I got from a forum member should work great.

Espresso
05-16-2012, 08:26 AM
What exactly does this mini antenna do? I've seen these on some boats while I've also seen a really short antenna tube. For the spectrum MR200/MR3000, the exposed antenna wire is only like 3" long if that.

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 08:40 AM
It does the same thing, just a clean and removable external antenna mount that will extend the range. A must for carbon hulls.

srislash
05-16-2012, 08:48 AM
So how does it work with a co axial cable/antenna wire?

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 08:55 AM
It's got a washer with a eye to attach the rx antenna to the external antenna lower shaft that attaches to the hull.

Espresso
05-16-2012, 08:59 AM
So your Rx wire itself remains in the hull or is it threaded through the loops on this MHZ antenna?

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 09:05 AM
The rx wire stays in the hull and the external antenna with the loops is what is removable after running/storage.

numse1964
05-16-2012, 12:13 PM
Hi

Do you use this kind of antenna with a 2,4 ghz radio ?
- I thought that was a bad idear.

I use this with my 40 mhz radio. And it's realy good and comfy.

Best regards Henrik

bruiser77
05-16-2012, 06:36 PM
I hope it works with 2.4, thats what im going to use it with. we shall see.

nata2run
05-16-2012, 07:37 PM
I love the idea of a removable antenna, can someone confirm it works with 2.4ghz?..... Maybe I can get an extra long antenna and win the "INCH" game over bruiser LOL 2" short damn LOL

srislash
05-16-2012, 09:12 PM
What are you guys comparing now...:roflol:

nata2run
05-16-2012, 09:55 PM
What are you guys comparing now...:roflol:
Hey Shawn, stick to the subject LOL - the thread here is My new "big" boat! LOL, dont destract bruiser, he's got work to do!

nata2run
05-17-2012, 03:03 AM
Ok, back to the real world again. Just looking at propshop's site. where would you guys start?
I'm going to give up on the traditional x447 for a hull this size.

5017/2 - 5517/2 or in the 60's ?

I think I'm hooked on the 8s setup motor is around 1380kv in wye mode

bruiser77
05-17-2012, 07:46 AM
With that size boat you probably wanna run a 442 at max!!!!! LOL! I'm so distRacted now! LOL!

srislash
05-17-2012, 08:34 AM
I would think something in the 55 range should be appropriate.Should have some choices there.Fightercat has 5518's
Mind you with 1380kv on 8s that is some RPM.50's or 52's then.

srislash
05-17-2012, 09:12 AM
Hmmm you should have known what was on my mind and told me yesterday lol
Man, I really like those. I couldn't figure out, do they have ball bearings installed? So do these have bearings?I'm still aquiring information for my winters build.It may have gotton bigger now:hornets_nest:.

nata2run
05-17-2012, 10:36 AM
So do these have bearings?I'm still aquiring information for my winters build.It may have gotton bigger now:hornets_nest:.

I would ever only build what I can fit on the back seat LOL. RPM wise I'll be in the 37k on 8s so it should pull a 50' something prop. 140km/h would be nice.

nata2run
05-17-2012, 10:52 AM
I think the Doc has some 5518/3 from propshop, wonder if I can pull them safely. Potential to hit 100mph with something like that! That's if the lehners can handle it. Few more days and hull should be here.

Chrisg81983
05-17-2012, 08:42 PM
Can't wait to see this
I bought the Hpr drives by the way they should shpi out monday thanks for the help
Chris g

nata2run
05-17-2012, 09:54 PM
Congrats on getting the HPR, I was a 1/1000's of an inch from getting the 135 HPR!!! MHZ gave me a deal I couldnt refuse so I ended up with that. Hanspeter has some amazing Hulls though. and I always enjoy watching them getting build :) Kinda glad I got the MHZ though, just look at Christians new turbine powered monster! "so I keep telling myself anyway"

Would be good to follow your build threat, all the best of luck. (although luck is for the unprepared)

nata2run
05-20-2012, 07:55 AM
Hull should arrive tomorrow or the day after, really looking forward to this one. Hopefully everything is in one piece.

Eric Ho
05-20-2012, 09:39 AM
http://www.hydroworld.de/vb/showthread.php?6017-Spezial-Antriebe-quot-click-Drive-quot

Those are nice, but they dont ship to the US.

liteumup69
05-20-2012, 11:56 AM
Sure they do, I just got a set of there professional line couplers in the mail today, 8mm by 6.35 or 1/4 flrex

Eric Ho
05-20-2012, 08:50 PM
Ah, I guess he's selective then - this is the reply I got when I tried to order the drives:


I don`t send this parts in USA. Sorry.
I transfers your Money back.

Mit besten Grüßen / best regards

Jochen Preugschat

nata2run
05-21-2012, 01:14 AM
HOHOHO, HULL is here .... In my car :spy:

Chrisg81983
05-21-2012, 01:19 AM
Pics please

srislash
05-21-2012, 01:22 AM
C'mon open it!!!

nata2run
05-21-2012, 05:51 AM
OK, She's here!!!
Thought I'd share the first photos. Looks smaller in the picture but shes quite big compared. (maybe because the 114 sits higher on the stand) This should be alot of fun.
Also ordered some carbon 3.5mm sheets, that I will be using + servo arms that I will be polishing chrome. I think I will go back to the traditional motor mounts as I want to use the 8mm thrust bearings. How ever, there will be 2 mounts per side on the front. Sorta like the honey combe design but without the combe. first mount will have the 14mm center hole for the motor bearing half way through, the second just the 8mm for the shaft. then a 0.5mm aluminium plate, for the thrust bearing. Both mounts will screw togeter with a 4mm spacer. So it will look like the honey combe but instead 7mm of carbon. It will then have the lehner bracket for the back support.

76934769357693676937

Remmie81
05-21-2012, 06:17 AM
Looking nice!!!

I will follow this build!

nata2run
05-21-2012, 06:22 AM
Thank you Remmie, will follow yours too :wink:

nata2run
05-21-2012, 06:24 AM
Ok Guys,
to better understand what I'm planning to do with the mounts here is a little drawing. So 2 mounts for the front bonded with spacers. 1 mount for the back from Lehner. (will make a back bracket so it can screw on and come off anytime.

76938

bruiser77
05-21-2012, 06:27 AM
Congrats Nata! Welcome to the 50+ club:) AKA just for men! Lol

nata2run
05-21-2012, 06:28 AM
LOL Thank you.. Less talking dont you have work to do ??? LOL

bruiser77
05-21-2012, 06:31 AM
I'm only allowed to post bullspit on threads other than my own! Lol

nata2run
05-21-2012, 06:45 AM
Lol me too!!!

Chrisg81983
05-21-2012, 07:21 AM
Nata looks great man I wish you luck with the build

Remmie81
05-21-2012, 09:40 AM
Nata,

I like the design of your motor mounts, but (forgive me) I do not understand the idea behind it.
Why double on the front?

srislash
05-21-2012, 09:47 AM
Kent,how big are the Lehners compared to the 1717's? Just curious. Looks like a good mount setup.

nata2run
05-21-2012, 10:31 AM
Nata,

I like the design of your motor mounts, but (forgive me) I do not understand the idea behind it.
Why double on the front?

Remmie,
The idea serves a couple of things. I have learned my lessons from the past. Let me explain. Soon as you leave room for the wind up (3mm) the stingers just sit there and hold the shaft in place. All the preasure/load is on the bearings of the motors and the mount itself holding the motors, making it very easy to break if you have a crash or hit something in the water. The purpose of this setup is, the 2 mounts help each other and become double the strengh or more. instead of all the power be located on one 3.5mm mount its now in an area of 10mm (2x3.5mm plus gap) it also allows me to run extended bolts through the mounts and cover with epoxy (total area covered with epoxy will be close to 20mm) The mount will never give!!! Also, I'm saving the motors by having a thrust bearing on the second/front mount. that means the collet will push on the bearing of the mount and not the bearing of the motors.

nata2run
05-21-2012, 10:40 AM
Kent,how big are the Lehners compared to the 1717's? Just curious. Looks like a good mount setup.

I think the Lehners are on path with the 1717 but in a smaller package. If I understand right the Lehners will handle alot more RPM. They seem to be build like a brick and no wobly parts and loose bearings like the 1717's have. But power wise, I think its close. I will benefit from the RPM and the fact I can run both 5s-(6s HOT) and 8s just by swopping leads.
The lehners are slightly thinner but a bit longer 1/2" or so

Prop-a-Gator
05-21-2012, 10:43 AM
Unique motor mount design. Sounds like you are going for bullet proof-ness. Any chance you'll put some fillets in those inside corners? Sharp inside corners are stress risers, but it seems no one bothers rounding them on these motor mounts - not that I've ever heard of one breaking.

The hull makes those Lehners look tiny. I would've needed a roof rack or a trailer to get it home! :lol: This will be an awesome build.:popcorn2:

nata2run
05-21-2012, 10:57 AM
Unique motor mount design. Sounds like you are going for bullet proof-ness. Any chance you'll put some fillets in those inside corners? Sharp inside corners are stress risers, but it seems no one bothers rounding them on these motor mounts - not that I've ever heard of one breaking.

The hull makes those Lehners look tiny. I would've needed a roof rack or a trailer to get it home! :lol: This will be an awesome build.:popcorn2:
HEHE,
Not going bullet prof, but want to make sure motors stay in place and not move. You just never know what might happen. Its not going to harm making it stronger. Your quite right, the Lehners look so small. Its amazing they have enough power to push the hull 90+mph (not saying thats what I will do) but the power is there on the right setup. I will definetly do my best to make everything line up and make everything run as smooth as I can. Measure twice, make a template then test and install.

Remmie81
05-21-2012, 11:45 AM
Thanks for the explanation.
I think its a perfect solution!!!

Grtz Remmie

nata2run
05-21-2012, 12:16 PM
Thank you Remmie, I hope it will work in my favor. The whole idea is to make an even better build than the 114. The last thing I want is parts flying off or misfailure because of me. I run in a small lake with people around. It's better to take precaution and make it right.

nata2run
05-23-2012, 02:59 AM
Ok,
Been spending some time on the drawing board. Here are the Carbon parts.
77110

jkr
05-23-2012, 04:45 AM
Nice job.

srislash
05-23-2012, 07:53 AM
That'll look cool in there bud.

nata2run
05-23-2012, 08:23 AM
The plan is to have the components under the carbon and purple anodized under the cutouts. Just printing templates at the moments to see if it fits nicely. Unfortunately I'll be using a lot of carbon. Few hundred bucks. Grrreee. But don't want to compromise. Have to finish of the battery treys. Also working on the template/jig to cut the holes for the drives. Carbon should arrive before the weekend.

drwayne
05-23-2012, 10:07 AM
OSE CF bat trays are cheap at 12US ea.. I understand the uber need to do everything yourself, what I dont understand is the need to waste so much time copying something readily available from a friend ?
Cripes, Bruiser will be on the water before you !

ps. love ya work !
DocW

nata2run
05-23-2012, 10:18 AM
Wayne, if I just buy the parts off the shelf it won't be mine entirely. Needs my signature on it hehe. Plus I want 3.5mm carbon. I'll buy screws and stuff I can't make.

drwayne
05-23-2012, 11:00 AM
http://www.hydroworld.de/vb/showthread.php?6017-Spezial-Antriebe-quot-click-Drive-quot
Just emailed with a purchase request for 2x.
Thx for the info
W

nata2run
05-23-2012, 11:16 AM
Nice!!! May pinch of you when not looking. LOL

nata2run
05-24-2012, 08:06 AM
Servo, hoses and small bits are here. No carbon just yet. Still working on the jigs to drill the holes for the stingers. May be a busy weekend if everything gets here in time.

nata2run
05-24-2012, 10:07 PM
drawing and files now ready for cutting, slight mods to the motormounts but will explain later. NOW WHERE is the carbon grrrr.
The mounts will fit almost any motor including the 30 series Lehner, just incase LOL

77214

drwayne
05-25-2012, 04:39 AM
Very nice Mate !!!!
.
Almost perfect.
Why cut C5000 in middle when you know these are for my Drambuie ?
S'pose I could cover ...
hahaha

seriously nice work, mate
seriously disappointed it doesnt say D.O.I. !!


You ready for a chilly run in the concrete puddle ?
zoom zoom ..............
love your work !

W

Remmie81
05-25-2012, 05:56 AM
Wauw! That drawing of the carbon parts looks smoking hot!!!!!
Cant wait to see the result man! :thumbup1:

nata2run
05-25-2012, 06:00 AM
Thanks for the compliments ....LOL that's funny....DOI hey nah c5000 is just fine. Spend some time after work cutting the parts, the carbon came in after all, other sheet is coming from the US. They also have silver, blue and red. If I only knew before.
And damn straight I'm ready for the pond.

nata2run
05-25-2012, 06:08 AM
Thanks Remmie, I can't wait to see the result my self. Will have to wait till tomorrow, they are still covered in protective tape and stuck to the sacrificial sheet. Have to clean up and run some superglue around the edges to seal. Should have them ready by tomorrow.

drwayne
05-25-2012, 08:37 AM
Hey Kent

Will discuss eng mounts for the DOI in morning.

ZOOM ZOOM
TFL56 ready to go .... charged batts in, esc/motor tested, ready for the sealing 2M of deck tape !
Looking forward to making waves !

Prop-a-Gator
05-25-2012, 08:55 AM
Carbon bits look great! Can't wait to see this build really get going. I think the purple should be translucent and back-lit!! :banana:
Also looking forward to seeing DrW's uber Genesis hit the water. Does anyone sell the painted 56" Genesis hull in the States?

nata2run
05-25-2012, 09:02 AM
Thanks gator, don't think that hasn't been on my mind lol. I even have the panels for the backlid. Got blue and white but could ad the purple film. Could even insert acrylic into the cuts so it would be flush. Hmm but the window on the cowl should be clear..."...nah come on LOL

Prop-a-Gator
05-25-2012, 09:16 AM
Yes! Now that's what I'm talking about! Easy for me to say. lol
You can always save the extra bling for later - when 90 mph passes get boring. :wink:

bruiser77
05-25-2012, 09:27 AM
Hey Kent

Will discuss eng mounts for the DOI in morning.

ZOOM ZOOM
TFL56 ready to go .... charged batts in, esc/motor tested, ready for the sealing 2M of deck tape !
Looking forward to making waves !



Good luck with the first run Doc! Hope it performs flawlessly and FAST!!!!!!!!!! Hope you get a chance for some video;)

drwayne
05-25-2012, 09:29 AM
Good luck with the first run Doc! Hope it performs flawlessly and FAST!!!!!!!!!! Hope you get a chance for some video;)

Kent has date with the video recorder ( and maybe rescue ! )

W

nata2run
05-25-2012, 10:22 AM
Hehe, should be good. Knowing you doc should be bullet proof.

drwayne
05-25-2012, 10:34 AM
Haha.
Sure hope so for the end owner's sake !
Seems he has a few gas boater enemies... Im acquiring more every time I go out !!!!!!!

Nite !

nata2run
05-25-2012, 08:08 PM
Hello Everyone,
Started placing parts just for you guys to see, nothing glued.

77303773047730577306

srislash
05-25-2012, 08:10 PM
Looks great Kent.:thumbup1:

Chrisg81983
05-25-2012, 09:24 PM
Looks really good that was pretty quick

Prop-a-Gator
05-25-2012, 09:32 PM
Sure is purty Kent

nata2run
05-25-2012, 11:58 PM
Thanks guys for the compliments, nothing glued in yet but just playing around. Have two cats at the moment to worry about "3 if you include the missus"
Will shortly be posting/uploading Dr.Wayne's new project ......

Link to Big Genesis (Super Daytona) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY7T5IKk_3A&feature=youtu.be

nata2run
05-26-2012, 02:41 AM
Been working on the motor mounts to see if the motors fit, plenty of room there. This is the result so far. Also made little flex shaft holders that elevate up/down and left/right. Again the bottom screws are to alow for better bond to the hull "concept im working on for this build" so it will have that consistent look.

773347733577336

Prop-a-Gator
05-26-2012, 07:40 AM
Thanks guys for the compliments, nothing glued in yet but just playing around. Have two cats at the moment to worry about "3 if you include the missus"
Will shortly be posting/uploading Dr.Wayne's new project ......

Link to Big Genesis (Super Daytona) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY7T5IKk_3A&feature=youtu.be

Uber Daytona is alive!! That looked awesome for a maiden. Pressure's on now Kent. lol I want to see some German style "parallel-flug" video soon!

drwayne
05-26-2012, 07:52 AM
Kent's medium sized MHZC5000 1140mm , from today.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXLEPOT_Dhw&list=UUCVoXfrPoc8XED_dvY1UxwQ&index=1&feature=plcp

srislash
05-26-2012, 09:00 AM
Good runs there guys.You guys have a good perch for filming there at that body of water. I notice Doc waited for glass smooth to run.Hehe.

So Kent,you are going to sandwhich the thrust bearing in the mount?I see a relief in the mount in the pics.

drwayne
05-26-2012, 09:47 AM
Good runs there guys.You guys have a good perch for filming there at that body of water. I notice Doc waited for glass smooth to run.Hehe.

So Kent,you are going to sandwhich the thrust bearing in the mount?I see a relief in the mount in the pics.

Pity is the TFL aint mine !
On it's maiden run, spun the collet RHS at 1.36 .tightened both till thought the nuts would slip ! .. . and at end the LHS prop and shaft stub , lost to the pond monster ...fractured outside of stinger...dog and all ! 8(
The 1/4 to 3/16 shaft is great for prop selection, but not ok for the power squeezed through it.
Oh well.. all 1/4 now.. owner ordered new props from propshop-UK.. now waiting for sunshine and wamrth !

Kent's looked impressive today.
Lots of up and go !
remind him to return those props !
haha

W

Prop-a-Gator
05-26-2012, 10:48 AM
Looking good Kent. No wah-wah. What did you adjust or was it just the props? If so, you may want to tell Doc you lost them in the pond too. :wink:

nata2run
05-26-2012, 09:07 PM
Nah not props, moved stingers up to neutral position and moved batteries forward. Just never thought I had to move them that much forward. But can experiment with smaller props now and more cell count. Ppl that get those boats running on 6s got 2200kv motors, that's a lot more rpm then what I run on my 1580kv.

Chrisg81983
05-26-2012, 09:11 PM
Kent did you ever try the 1717's on a higher cell count

Make-a-Wake
05-26-2012, 09:17 PM
Link to Big Genesis (Super Daytona) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY7T5IKk_3A&feature=youtu.be

Is this a standard size Genesis with all that stuff crammed in it??????

nata2run
05-26-2012, 09:28 PM
Good runs there guys.You guys have a good perch for filming there at that body of water. I notice Doc waited for glass smooth to run.Hehe.

So Kent,you are going to sandwhich the thrust bearing in the mount?I see a relief in the mount in the pics.
No not doing that, the bearing is on the outside of the mount. Reason for 2sheets of carbon is extra strength. Don't want things to flex. There is a lot of power going through the hull. The lelief is for the bearing on the lehner, it's not flush to the front plate but poking out about 0.5mm. Will take some more photos as build comes along.

nata2run
05-26-2012, 09:32 PM
Kent did you ever try the 1717's on a higher cell count

Nope, not done that but have 8s waiting to test on smaller props. Should be good fun, there was no point trying to put more power through if it wasn't smooth on the water.

Make-a-Wake
05-26-2012, 10:21 PM
Is this a standard size Genesis with all that stuff crammed in it??????

Hmmmmmmm???? Twin 5692"s???

drwayne
05-27-2012, 12:47 AM
Is this a standard size Genesis with all that stuff crammed in it??????



Hmmmmmmm???? Twin 5692"s???

It is 56inch Vs std at around 36"
Same hull as FC Daytona, from dimensions and appearances.
W

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34489-TFL-56-quot-Genesis-twin&p=420543&posted=1#post420543

nata2run
05-27-2012, 01:41 AM
Hello guys, the part I hate the most is almost over. Measure 200 times, drill ones. This will be it for today.

77367773687736977370

Make-a-Wake
05-27-2012, 09:31 AM
It is 56inch Vs std at around 36"
Same hull as FC Daytona, from dimensions and appearances.
W

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?34489-TFL-56-quot-Genesis-twin&p=420543&posted=1#post420543

Ok, thanks, it looks just like a Genesis so it was hard to tell, but my mind kept telling me those electronics wouldnt fit in a standard Genesis..............Nice boat!

nata2run
05-27-2012, 10:37 AM
So, both stingers are in "more or less" with a bit of luck can get onto gluing in motor mounts tomorrow.

nata2run
05-28-2012, 07:35 AM
Hello, Mounts are tacked in. still have to do the final gluing. Have collected some carbon dust to mix in with the epoxy. Gets a nice black color.
Everything lines up fine and motors spin freely.

77459774607746177462

Chrisg81983
05-28-2012, 08:41 AM
Looks awesome Kent I just picked up a pair of the 2240/7 last night for that 115 I just bought Chris

nata2run
05-28-2012, 08:46 AM
Looks awesome Trent I just picked up the 2240's last night for that 115 I just bought Chris
Hehe, did you get a set of Lehner? What wind?

drwayne
05-28-2012, 08:50 AM
Ghris, meet Trent... or is it Chris meet Kent .. I dunno...
:lol:


2 things Kent
you need compressed air to blow out every bit of carbon dust from inside else the motors will ingest it, and get belly ache.
2nd thing.. do the air trick twice .. just to make sure.
W

nata2run
05-28-2012, 08:52 AM
I don't know either, I hear abit of everything LOL

Chrisg81983
05-28-2012, 09:08 AM
I got the 2240/7 they are 2114 I got the 6 connections on back as well

Chrisg81983
05-28-2012, 09:13 AM
And yes I got a pair forgot to answe that one

nata2run
05-28-2012, 09:17 AM
I got the 2240/7 they are 2114 I got the 6 connections on back as well

Well, awesome!! If you build it right and get it setup right, you have enough power to push this way over 100mph. Should be nice.

drwayne
05-28-2012, 09:19 AM
re pm cf+2pk e.
Hey MrK .. will try to visit Tues, will call first c where u are.
MrW

Chrisg81983
05-28-2012, 09:23 AM
That was my goal but most of the time i would like to keep it around 75 mph on 5s the then when desired step it up to 6s and then really be moving but I will do a build thread once it all gets here for now I will be watching yours Thanks Chris g

nata2run
05-28-2012, 09:48 AM
Just a couple more images of the "little machines" with the thrust bearing installed. I love the look of the Lehners already!!

7747777478

srislash
05-28-2012, 10:02 AM
They do look size appropriate in there.Mounts look good Kent.Or is it Trent :roflol: .

nata2run
05-28-2012, 10:48 AM
They do look size appropriate, but not PHAT LOL. Let's see if they got the power to get anywhere.

Trent

jkr
05-28-2012, 11:03 AM
That was my goal but most of the time i would like to keep it around 75 mph on 5s the then when desired step it up to 6s and then really be moving but I will do a build thread once it all gets here for now I will be watching yours Thanks Chris g

If you run over 30.000 rpm your thrust must be ceramic.

Chrisg81983
05-28-2012, 11:23 AM
Thanks for pointing that out you gotta love spell check on these new phones I do that about 20 times a day lol

jkr
05-28-2012, 11:36 AM
Thanks for pointing that out you gotta love spell check on these new phones I do that about 20 times a day lol
Ooops!

jkr
05-28-2012, 11:36 AM
nata2run

If you run over 30.000 rpm your thrust must be ceramic.

nata2run
05-28-2012, 06:17 PM
Ghris, meet Trent... or is it Chris meet Kent .. I dunno...
:lol:


2 things Kent
you need compressed air to blow out every bit of carbon dust from inside else the motors will ingest it, and get belly ache.
2nd thing.. do the air trick twice .. just to make sure.
W

All cool, will do and do regularly as well. What I ment to say with the carbon was... that I mixed some carbon dust with the epoxy (looks cool) and may be stronger dunno. Once im done drilling I will clean the hull inside in methonol. (and then blow compressed air again)

nata2run
05-29-2012, 06:16 AM
The Doc. came to the rescue again today. He happend to have some CF cloth I could use. (Very minor amount used)
Wanted to get something strong for the tubes,s so got them wrapped in CF. Ideal would have been heat shrink and then get that to clamp around, but didnt have any big enough so used some cling film to wrap around as epoxy is setting off.

Many hours sanding and then polish should look nice. Here they are before applying the epoxy.

7758277583

drwayne
05-29-2012, 06:53 AM
hahaha
nice
you could have asked this electronics engineer for heat shrink...........ya dope !
Ive got miles of it ( literally )
W

jcald2000
05-29-2012, 08:15 AM
Can't use regular heat skrink for epoxy it won't release.

srislash
05-29-2012, 08:27 AM
Can't use regular heat skrink for epoxy it won't release.But it would sand off real easy.Great plan BTW Kent.

nata2run
05-29-2012, 08:39 AM
Not the most fun I had, but here is one sorta done. May buff abit when epoxy sets off completely.

77585

drwayne
05-29-2012, 08:47 AM
Kent
A friend in Salisbury(5Kms away ) has CF in tubular sock format... woulda been easier than wrapping the cf matt..
:(
W

nata2run
05-29-2012, 09:00 AM
What bendable? Cf tube. Like the stock battery mounts, I like making my own

drwayne
05-29-2012, 10:18 AM
a long rolled up length of cf formed as a sock.. cf cloth.. woven into tubular shape.. soft, sock like, bendable,foldable, cuddly .. like pipe braiding.
neva mind.. too late now.

Hmm.. have chosen power for mine.. Sphincter factor 9.5 .... 12S to 5698/910 .. :smile::smile:
zoom zoom

nata2run
05-29-2012, 07:55 PM
a long rolled up length of cf formed as a sock.. cf cloth.. woven into tubular shape.. soft, sock like, bendable,foldable, cuddly .. like pipe braiding.
neva mind.. too late now.

Hmm.. have chosen power for mine.. Sphincter factor 9.5 .... 12S to 5698/910 .. :smile::smile:
zoom zoom

MAN....always the hard way for me LOL

nata2run
05-30-2012, 06:56 AM
Hello, got the support mounts for the main carbon plate glued in there is 12 of them, also did some buffing on the stuffing tubes. Next will be the under hull water intakes.

77652

srislash
05-30-2012, 08:01 AM
So carbony,so carbony:drool:

drwayne
05-30-2012, 08:18 AM
So carbony,so carbony:drool:

haha he'd soil his pants if they created carbon eating nanobots to lower the global carbon problems !!!!
:lol:

It does look darn pretty, though ..... :smile:

nata2run
05-31-2012, 08:33 AM
Hello guys,
Got a few things done. drilled holes for the rudder, installed water pickups (still need to cut the teardrop) glued/waterproofed the drivers.
little luck will be on the lake in no time.

7772377724777257772677727

Chrisg81983
05-31-2012, 10:31 AM
Lookin good

drwayne
05-31-2012, 11:52 AM
Apologies upfront . you do know lots.. however, the pix suggest the water pickup tube leans fwd, making in a drain ?
More pics could offer clarity..
Luv ya work.
W

nata2run
05-31-2012, 07:33 PM
Apologies upfront . you do know lots.. however, the pix suggest the water pickup tube leans fwd, making in a drain ?
More pics could offer clarity..
Luv ya work.
W

Maybe drain is a good idea when I fill up with water :). I have now dremmeled the teardrop shape into the hull. Illustration shows the configuration of the jets & cut.
regarding leaning forward....well regardless, thats the way the hoses will go anyway. Will see in the pond how good it works, but I'm glad I got them that close to the tunnel.

77746

Chrisg81983
05-31-2012, 07:39 PM
Once that teardrop is filed out they look like they will be perfect looks great keep up the nice work

nata2run
05-31-2012, 07:50 PM
Thanks Chris, I hope it works as planned.
This is how I did it.

77749

Chrisg81983
05-31-2012, 07:58 PM
I have used the same method many times and it works flawlessly so it looks like you will be ok

drwayne
05-31-2012, 09:40 PM
ahahhh

without the tear drops it wouldve been all over !

Chrisg81983
05-31-2012, 10:13 PM
No without the tear drops there will be tear drops (crying)

nata2run
06-01-2012, 12:15 AM
Well lets just hope those "working" "tear drops" are not from my face :)

Chrisg81983
06-01-2012, 12:20 AM
I hear that I am sure it will be fine My Hpr is stuck in Germany for some reason it has not moved since the 26th I am hoping all is ok else I will have those teardrops we are talking about it's been 10 days total and it moved once

nata2run
06-01-2012, 12:42 AM
It could be at you local facility, just not updated/logged yet. you may see it in the next few days or so??

Chrisg81983
06-01-2012, 03:28 AM
I really hope so

Eric Ho
06-01-2012, 07:23 AM
If its DHL you got to bug them more.....I had them arrive late and unrecorded.

Chrisg81983
06-01-2012, 07:49 AM
I called Dhl and they said i need to call their express line so I called them and they said it is going to go to my local post office but still no word thanks everyone for all your help

nata2run
06-01-2012, 08:02 AM
Hello Guys, got abit done. Installed rudder and the pull/pull wires...what a P.O.S. idea MHZ Pull/pulls!! definetly have to rework that and use thinner wire. With the holes and stuff to get it working smooth boat will sink before it gets moving. If it wasen't for the perfect alignment of the motors and flex drives, I would of had a bad night!! Stuffing tube support now got carbon rod rather than screws on the bottom part. I think its coming along ok.

7778377784777857778677787

Prop-a-Gator
06-01-2012, 08:24 AM
Carbonicious! Carboniferous!

srislash
06-01-2012, 08:29 AM
Coming along nicely Kent.What are you gonna run for props?

nata2run
06-01-2012, 08:38 AM
Thanks guys,
Well I'm going to do what we should all be doing... start off small and work our way up. x447 will be first on 8s, then 450/3 maybe? would like to run something like 5517/2 or 57something high pitch. but I dunno. 90mph would be the max I think i could get, but I am a long way from that.

Chrisg81983
06-01-2012, 09:33 AM
Looks totally awesome and i love the carbon plate work. I would like to speak to you about making me some parts if you are interested ?

Prop-a-Gator
06-01-2012, 09:41 AM
I really like your flex shaft holder design. Looks great mounted to the carbon-sheathed flex tubes. I've never built a twin. Is it ok to have that much flex showing between the tube and the coupler? Is that gap to allow removal of the coupler nut?

nata2run
06-01-2012, 10:16 AM
Looks totally awesome and i love the carbon plate work. I would like to speak to you about making me some parts if you are interested ?

Always interested in helping out a fellow mate :)

nata2run
06-01-2012, 10:18 AM
I really like your flex shaft holder design. Looks great mounted to the carbon-sheathed flex tubes. I've never built a twin. Is it ok to have that much flex showing between the tube and the coupler? Is that gap to allow removal of the coupler nut?

Thanks Gator,
by the time I get the nut back on and install a flex saver there will be less than half an inch showing. I think it should be ok, less chance of snapping if slightly misaligned. Can wobble but half an inch should be ok.

nata2run
06-02-2012, 02:42 AM
Ok, Got some more done, and worked on the pull/pull system. Still not 100% happy but never mind. Just need to waterproof a few spots loctite all screws, add ESC's. Drive to pond :)
Oh and props are 4818/3 on 8s


7783077831778327783377834

Chrisg81983
06-02-2012, 10:34 AM
Moving rite along looks great

Prop-a-Gator
06-02-2012, 10:33 PM
You're making it look too easy. Always a fast builder. Almost time to start looking for your next hull. ;)
BTW... have you seen the 1.8 pitch CNC props on FCR (http://fightercatracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=244&category_id=26&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1)? 50-55mm DIA. Too big for me, but sounds like you were looking for something in that range.

nata2run
06-03-2012, 12:52 AM
You're making it look too easy. Always a fast builder. Almost time to start looking for your next hull. ;)
BTW... have you seen the 1.8 pitch CNC props on FCR (http://fightercatracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=244&category_id=26&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1)? 50-55mm DIA. Too big for me, but sounds like you were looking for something in that range.

Hehe, I hope I can make it look easy, that's the point no? How ever you can do it fast when you have all the machines to cut things out. Some may argue that it's cheating because the machine did it. But does it apply if you build the machine too? Resin only takes 24 hours to cure. By the way props are similar to FC's they are 4818 CNC. I noticed they don't bend they snap. Looks to be very good quality

nata2run
06-03-2012, 01:23 AM
Props

77880

nata2run
06-04-2012, 03:11 AM
Has anyone out there completed the rudder pull/pull on one of those. I seriously dont like the way its sugested by MHZ. I much rather the wires runing inside tubes way above the waterline. But I dont want to reinvent the plate :) the way it is now, hull will definely take in water!

drwayne
06-04-2012, 03:33 AM
me me me !
go see Joe's
W

nata2run
06-04-2012, 09:07 AM
Your not using pull/pull are you doc? U got rod no?

srislash
06-04-2012, 09:57 AM
4818's?Where did you find those Kent?
BTW I think you are in the clear if you built the machines

nata2run
06-04-2012, 10:09 AM
4818's?Where did you find those Kent?
BTW I think you are in the clear if you built the machines

LOL ok then...... I got the props locally. They look to be of good quality. I had a x445 from the same company, and they are tough as! Accidently hit something and it just snapped no bend or anything just snapped. So they are hard as. They are so light you can't even balance lol... Hopefully I can finish off the build soon and get her on the water. Just curious to see how she performs before I invest in a nice paint job. Forecast looks good though, and I'm confident I didn't spare anything or cut corners.

drwayne
06-04-2012, 10:23 AM
Your not using pull/pull are you doc? U got rod no?
yes pull pull
rods at very end for emulaton of hydraulic ram.
W

Prop-a-Gator
06-04-2012, 10:26 AM
I don't think you need to worry about anyone accusing you of "cheating" for using CNC to cut your parts. I wish I had access to CNC & laser/water cutter. Nor would I think cutting corners is in your vocabulary based on your builds. Your quick and clean builds are a testament to your planning and preparation. Nice work, nata. :beerchug:
Checking the forecast... you must be close to finished ;)

nata2run
06-04-2012, 10:26 AM
Ok, so how are they entering the hull? Any tubes for the wires? Have you got close up pics?

nata2run
06-04-2012, 10:36 AM
I don't think you need to worry about anyone accusing you of "cheating" for using CNC to cut your parts. I wish I had access to CNC & laser/water cutter. Nor would I think cutting corners is in your vocabulary based on your builds. Your quick and clean builds are a testament to your planning and preparation. Nice work, nata. :beerchug:
Checking the forecast... you must be close to finished ;)

Hehe, thanks Gator for the confidence. I hear too often, "oh you just have to push a button" well yeah! If I can get it done in a tenth of the time then why not. And its accurate and consistent. About being close to finish.....well look wise it's coming to an end, but there is still plenty to be done, not to mention all the setup. The setup as is now is capable of 90mph and beyond. To actually get it there is a different story. ...... And that's the part I lack.

srislash
06-04-2012, 10:45 AM
Hehe, thanks Gator for the confidence. I hear too often, "oh you just have to push a button" well yeah! If I can get it done in a tenth of the time then why not. And its accurate and consistent. About being close to finish.....well look wise it's coming to an end, but there is still plenty to be done, not to mention all the setup. The setup as is now is capable of 90mph and beyond. To actually get it there is a different story. ...... And that's the part I lack.Ah but you're learning Kent and getting there is the fun.

nata2run
06-04-2012, 10:59 AM
True true, as long as you learn a little every time you go out its all good. I still have a bad fear of crashing or boat going boom. With the speed we are doing comes much more risk, no room for a lot of error. But never mind. Tonight I got the anodized purple aluminum under the carbon, looks good! Will take some pics tomorrow.. When my carbon plate lands it's of to make the treys for the lipos. And I guess after that it's just small cosmetic details before I declare done.

srislash
06-04-2012, 07:33 PM
LOL ok then...... I got the props locally. They look to be of good quality. I had a x445 from the same company, and they are tough as! Accidently hit something and it just snapped no bend or anything just snapped. So they are hard as. They are so light you can't even balance lol... Hopefully I can finish off the build soon and get her on the water. Just curious to see how she performs before I invest in a nice paint job. Forecast looks good though, and I'm confident I didn't spare anything or cut corners.So was that Boat Bitz.I e-mailed them and they said they had 1.4's

nata2run
06-04-2012, 07:57 PM
So was that Boat Bitz.I e-mailed them and they said they had 1.4's

umm yep :)
you can check it out on their website under counter rotating props. you'll see the the 48, 50 they are all 1.8 even though it dont state. Says on the prop though :)

Chrisg81983
06-04-2012, 08:11 PM
Kent what type of epoxy resin do u use

nata2run
06-04-2012, 08:39 PM
I spot glued with 6min epoxy mixed with carbon filings/dust, then I used a 2 part resin from West Systems 105 part A + hardner, its a 24hour i believe. It took a while to cure (they sent me a sample pack for free) just enough to glue in the mounts. I think you can use any 24 hour epoxy resin for carbon fiber. as long as the hull and mounts are carbon. not seure what to do if hull is glass??

Chrisg81983
06-04-2012, 08:51 PM
I was thinking of using the west systems epoxy but I was unsure if it would bond to the carbon / Kevlar plus my Hpr has an extra layer of glass over the carbon/Kevlar I am in the middle of talking to Manuel about him sending me some of the epoxy he uses in his builds as he needs to send me the rest of my parts.

nata2run
06-04-2012, 08:56 PM
Maybe talk to Manuel, as he would know for sure. No.1 importent though, is to make sure you prep right for the job. Cleaning the area using thinners or acetone sanding with 80grid sanding paper even heating up the area with a hair dryer/heat gun. Lots of different ways. As long as it holds :) thats the main thing

nata2run
06-05-2012, 06:47 AM
Thought I'd upload some more photos, got the purple anodized aluminium under the carbon.

srislash
06-05-2012, 09:15 AM
Looks good Kent:drool:, I like the inlay look,Awesome.Did you find the coloured tubing at Bitz as well or did you do that?I have been doing my own but I saw someone with white on the board.I never got a reply as to where they got it.Those props do say 1.8 don't they.mmm 6s

Remmie81
06-05-2012, 09:47 AM
Its not about Epoxy bonding to carbon or glass, it will do both as long as you roughen up the surface and make sure its clean (grease and dust free)
its about epoxy bonding to another resin.

Epoxy -> Polyester = YES
Polyester -> Epoxy = NO

I keep following your built Kent! Its awesome!!

nata2run
06-05-2012, 10:36 AM
@ Shaun, tube from the UK it's purple silicone vacuum tubing for automotive use. 8mm outer 4mm inner. Got off eBay, you can get many colors. Just search eBay and you will find it bro.

nata2run
06-05-2012, 10:37 AM
@ Remmie. Thanks for the clarification and the compliments, look forward to your build as well.

srislash
06-05-2012, 09:07 PM
@ Shaun, tube from the UK it's purple silicone vacuum tubing for automotive use. 8mm outer 4mm inner. Got off eBay, you can get many colors. Just search eBay and you will find it bro.Thanks Bud.

nata2run
06-07-2012, 12:36 AM
Hello, not sure what I'm painting yet, so for now going with the Aqua-Mania as I can just apply striaght onto the white coat. "kinda like it too" Couldnt find any decals anywhere so had to redraw the whole lot!!! Grrrrr.

78226

Prop-a-Gator
06-07-2012, 09:11 AM
I certainly like the theme! ;):thumbup:
I thought about adding the orange and red stripes from the black & silver AquaMania boat to mine just to give it more color on the water. Wasn't sure how it would look and didn't put any effort into laying it out on the pc.

Chrisg81983
06-07-2012, 09:43 AM
I really like the aqua mania theme great job with it

nata2run
06-07-2012, 09:54 AM
Thanks guys, if you want the decals or artwork let me know.

Chrisg81983
06-07-2012, 09:58 AM
I am sending a pm now

nata2run
06-07-2012, 10:14 AM
I certainly like the theme! ;):thumbup:
I thought about adding the orange and red stripes from the black & silver AquaMania boat to mine just to give it more color on the water. Wasn't sure how it would look and didn't put any effort into laying it out on the pc.

Gator if that's yours in the pic, that looks awesome. Where you get the graphic from?

Prop-a-Gator
06-07-2012, 11:35 AM
Thanks! Someone posted the black/silver decal set on one of the forums. I modified it on PSElements into the white version. (red surround, metallic gradient in the lettering, etc) Some of the graphics from that set were hi res - others low res. It took some doctoring on some (flags) to even look decent. There are better pics in my album. I printed on water slide decal paper with an inkjet. Would have been better with a laser jet, but you can only tell up close. I know they'll fade over time, but they'll probably last longer than my boat with my driving skills. lol

nata2run
06-08-2012, 01:33 AM
Me drawing again.....man I must have too much time...

78315

Chrisg81983
06-08-2012, 01:35 AM
That you do lol but it looks great
OH and I like that silver red bull

nata2run
06-08-2012, 01:48 AM
Hehe LOL, what ppl do for their boats....

Prop-a-Gator
06-08-2012, 03:22 PM
Very cool. I like the eye socket windshield. :drool:

nata2run
06-09-2012, 10:56 PM
Just had a play with some decals......

7858278583

PF3X
06-09-2012, 11:56 PM
Really nice, great job :rockon2:

Chrisg81983
06-10-2012, 12:28 AM
I'm liking it very cool so is there any machines that u don't have I wish I lived near you

nata2run
06-10-2012, 01:57 AM
LOL @ Chris, lots of machines I wish I had. Never thought the machines I have were going to be used for boats.

@ PF3X, thanks for the compliments.

Anyway, didnt have alot of time today to work on the boat, but got some electrical done plus the "Star" for the motor (Enables the motor in WYE mode and can be use for 8s around 1370kv, compared to Delta 2365kv i think) I also got the leads wrapped with mesh to hide the black, red, and white. And for minor protection. Next will be some more water proofing and mounting the ESC's 5-8 more hours and she's good for her maiden.

7858678587

nata2run
06-11-2012, 09:09 AM
Hi everyone, trying to work out the ESC's hmmm they fit fine but by doing this will have to extend the battery leads.
Worse case they have to be top mounted. They also fit in the sponsons behind the motors :) ...ahh well still thinking

78713

Remmie81
06-11-2012, 09:17 AM
Cant you put the ESC's sideways?
Then connect the lipo thats in the left sponson with the right engine and vice versa.
Then you can have the minimum wire lenght possible I think.

But I dont know if that will fitt under your awesome carbon work.

Grtz,
Remmie

nata2run
06-11-2012, 09:27 AM
Remmie, I wish, but the holding screws are in the way. If I was able to fit them that way "if I modify" I don't think it would look very good as you would see the ends? I wonder how bad it would be to extend the wires 10cm 8guage? How much power would get lost? And how hot? I have tried behind the motors, it don't look bad.

drwayne
06-11-2012, 09:33 AM
put them on the wall behind the escs.
see brusier77 daytona thread where he placed the FC esc for example.
W

nata2run
06-11-2012, 09:36 AM
put them on the outside wall behind the escs.
see brusier77 daytona thread where he placed the FC esc for example.
W
That's what I ment about the behind motors "parallel to the motors" if you look closely at the picture there is a black strip of Velcro next to the motor. It don't look too bad.

Remmie81
06-11-2012, 09:41 AM
Ok if sideways is not possible then I would mount them on the walls between the motors and batteries if possible.
Then your tunnel stays very clean, you can design something new to make mounts and covers for them on the sides.
everything is lined-up then and you can go with short wires.

This was my idea for my MHZ 114 as well.

drwayne
06-11-2012, 09:44 AM
That's what I ment about the behind motors "parallel to the motors" if you look closely at the picture there is a black strip of Velcro next to the motor. It don't look too bad.
TFL56 for SF300A

Remmie81
06-11-2012, 09:48 AM
LOL, at least we are all talking about the same solution :thumbup:

nata2run
06-11-2012, 09:52 AM
Wow, they are big and heavy esc's. I have to think a little more as I want it to look as nice as possible.

Remmie81
06-11-2012, 10:03 AM
Just an idea but if you would put velcro on the walls and on the ESC's, then you can always remove them in case you need to.
Then if you make these stands (like the ones you have on your tunnel were the bolts of your carbon plate go into) and mount
them on the walls you can put a carbon plate in front of the ESC's so they are almost not visible.

So the same idea as you have now on the tunnel but then on the walls of the sponsons

drwayne
06-11-2012, 10:09 AM
Hey Kent
Joe@mbp-de just invoiced me for the pair of click drives !
woohoo.. !
on their way ... !

23.58 here atm
g'nite !

Chrisg81983
06-11-2012, 11:07 AM
@ w those click drives are very nice. some people say he will not ship to us, but I have no problems. @ Kent I would do the esc's like bruiser did in his daytona how is the vinyl coming along

nata2run
06-11-2012, 07:03 PM
@ Wayne, woohoo good to hear, sadly when they get here you may loose them to me :) .!!
@ Everyone, the plan was to have them under the carbon....."I WILL MAKE THEM FIT" who says you can't trim a little here and there LOL.
@ Chris, you have PM

nata2run
06-11-2012, 10:03 PM
Just an idea but if you would put velcro on the walls and on the ESC's, then you can always remove them in case you need to.
Then if you make these stands (like the ones you have on your tunnel were the bolts of your carbon plate go into) and mount
them on the walls you can put a carbon plate in front of the ESC's so they are almost not visible.

So the same idea as you have now on the tunnel but then on the walls of the sponsons

Thats not a bad idea, will do as my last way out if I cant fit them any other way, I would then cut the same pattern in them as on the plates but have them light up when the ESC's are armed :)

Remmie81
06-12-2012, 03:04 AM
Thats not a bad idea, will do as my last way out if I cant fit them any other way, I would then cut the same pattern in them as on the plates but have them light up when the ESC's are armed :)

Now that would be awesome!

nata2run
06-12-2012, 05:45 AM
Ok Fellas, Almost done. I decided to go with my orriginal plan and mount the ESC's under the carbon. To make it work without extending the wires I just had to spin the ESC' around and move them up towards the front, I didnt want to do that before but it should be ok. Still plenty room for playing with COG. I had to make the stand off's longer too. for that I just used some aluminiun tube that slides over the exsisting mounts, coated with the Dupli Metal Cast purple. Just some final touches and a bit more water proofing "just to be sure" and we're off for maiden.

7889078891788927889378894

Remmie81
06-12-2012, 08:41 AM
I would cool the ESC's first and then the engines. This will also make less tubing visible ;-)
Although you got some slik tubing there :beerchug:

nata2run
06-12-2012, 08:59 AM
I would cool the ESC's first and then the engines. This will also make less tubing visible ;-)
Although you got some slik tubing there :beerchug:

Very fair comment, how ever nothing is confirmed yet. Whatever is most warm gets the first cooling. So far I just had a feeling the Lehners would run warm. But will see.

drwayne
06-12-2012, 10:05 AM
Very fair comment, how ever nothing is confirmed yet. Whatever is most warm gets the first cooling. So far I just had a feeling the Lehners would run warm. But will see.

ESC first, then motors.
I will not fix the esc if you burn them !
W

nata2run
06-12-2012, 10:25 AM
@ doc, motors were most warm in the small cat, so they have cooling first. Now everything has same temperature on the water, and nothing burnt yet. I seem to burn stuff when not on the water.

drwayne
06-12-2012, 07:15 PM
@ doc, motors were most warm in the small cat, so they have cooling first. Now everything has same temperature on the water, and nothing burnt yet. .

Oh Kenny :ohmy:
Nooooooooooooooooo.

6S5A to 1717 for 7+ minutes is a play setup, M8.
Your 'warm' motors wouldnt melt ice !

Go to 'general Q&A threads' and look for more experienced replies to the same question.
A loaded setup requires esc first.


.

nata2run
06-12-2012, 07:39 PM
Oh Kenny :ohmy:
Nooooooooooooooooo.

6S5A to 1717 for 7+ minutes is a play setup, M8.
Your 'warm' motors wouldnt melt ice !

Go to 'general Q&A threads' and look for more experienced replies to the same question.
A loaded setup requires esc first.


.

I'm aware that delicate electronics "ESC's" need better control/cooling than plain copper wires inside a motor, it's logic for cage chickens. In my curent setup to keep the temps down/cold, this worked better. (For me) Im by no means arguing whats best for this setup. Of cause when you push the electronic side of things, it will need the most cooling, plus I believe the motors can handle alot more heat than the ESC's.

nata2run
06-13-2012, 08:40 PM
Good morning everyone , this is your captain speaking :lol:
Ok I have re wired all the cooling to feed the ESC's first "that will keep the Doc happy" specially if it blows, then he can fix without feeling bad, that it was wrongly wired. So shes done as far as I can tell, and hoping for a maiden this weekend yeahhh..

Chrisg81983
06-13-2012, 08:53 PM
Looks very good and good luck with the maiden run take a video please. What is the positioning of your lipos and are you running 1 or 2 packs to each motor

nata2run
06-13-2012, 09:23 PM
Looks very good and good luck with the maiden run take a video please. What is the positioning of your lipos and are you running 1 or 2 packs to each motor
Thank you chris, lipos will be in the sponsons as usual, COG start around 35% and work my way up. 6s1p 5000 per side to start off with, then 8s1p 5000 per side if all good.

Chrisg81983
06-13-2012, 09:46 PM
Are you putting any type of lipo trays in along with straps to hold them in place. Kent I have been told as well from many creditable people that esc's will take more heat than the motor. At the heat range a motor starts to demagnetize itself a esc can run fine at. It kinda makes sence but I need to look into it further.

nata2run
06-13-2012, 10:44 PM
Are you putting any type of lipo trays in along with straps to hold them in place. Kent I have been told as well from many creditable people that esc's will take more heat than the motor. At the heat range a motor starts to demagnetize itself a esc can run fine at. It kinda makes sence but I need to look into it further.

Chris, I'm no expert here. But I didn't think the electronics could handle running very hot, I have seen caps and other components blow at 80-85c (I consider that hot) I guess I have heard so many things I dont know what to believe? sometime what should makes sence, make no sence at all. All I can say is, that I dont push any components to the stage of getting burning hot. Never blown anything inside a boat (outside yes LOL) I wouldnt push my components to the limit for an extra 5-8mph as I dont race, this is for pure fun on the lake. So again if the motors starts to heat up, and ESC's are cool, I'll swop the cooling again :) easy done.

Regarding lipos, Im making a slide system when my carbon gets here. till then, just using pool noodle and Velcro to hold in place as I test.

Oh on a side note, SF240HV $250
Lehner 2250 $600
Hmm, wonder what I would look after the most

Chrisg81983
06-13-2012, 10:59 PM
I am on the same page as you

srislash
06-14-2012, 01:04 AM
:popcorn2:

nata2run
06-14-2012, 02:08 AM
Hey! Those are my popcorns LOL

nata2run
06-16-2012, 04:01 AM
Got the cooling sorted today, just the last little bits for the exit of the hull. also installed the support rod between the two motormounts. seems like I'm getting less vibrations, and its now hard to squash the two sides in. She should be ready for a maiden, but I find it a bit unsecure to install the batteries with no mounts. May have to consider. I really want her on the water though!!!

79107791087910979110

drwayne
06-16-2012, 04:52 AM
What?
Not finished ?
Joe said you said be finished by lunch !
I need to mount Rx switch and then the latest TFL56 build is ready to turn or burn.

W

jcald2000
06-16-2012, 08:51 AM
Carbon Fiber conducts elec, the thin coat of epoxy over the C/F is NOT much insullation. I have seen an $800.00 schultz mounted on a C/F plate burn from a dead short across the + and - on 10s almost took out the tent canopy!!!!
C/F looks great but can be deadly used wrong!!!

nata2run
06-16-2012, 11:00 AM
Unless the servo is in danger from being mounted directlty to the plate, I can't see what can go wrong? There is 3mm rubber between the esc's and the mounts plus the insulation around the esc's. I'm assuming everyone that uses carbon know not to mount any electrical components directly. I guess someone with a $800 schulze controller mounted directly onto carbon has no business in the boat business.

drwayne
06-16-2012, 11:03 AM
What?
Not finished ?
Joe said you said be finished by lunch !
I need to mount Rx switch and then the latest TFL56 build is ready to turn or burn.

W

TFL56 completed. switch mounted, batteries charged,ready to go.
Where's my camera wingman ?

Is your 1380 ready to go4broke ??

W

nata2run
06-16-2012, 11:23 PM
Hello Everyone, today was the day for the maiden!!! I somehow sorted out the placement of the lipos and got them snugged in with noodles.
Quite nice for a maiden I would say, nice in the water and a good speed of 102.4km/h on only 6s with the 4818/3.

when uploaded.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWTQrOZLJbs&feature=youtu.be

Chrisg81983
06-16-2012, 11:31 PM
Cool cant wait to see this

srislash
06-16-2012, 11:53 PM
Me too

nata2run
06-17-2012, 12:50 AM
Oh had some. Cooling problems. Could be the pickups or could be the 3mm tube that I used. Will install 4mm tube and see how we go. No chance of running the way it is.

nata2run
06-17-2012, 06:32 AM
Does any of you guys have a photo of your under hull "home filed" pickups just want to make sure mine are right. Didn't seem to cool very well. Don't want to have to install a metal one at this point.

srislash
06-17-2012, 07:16 AM
So how bad was it?Have you tested the rest of the cooling system?And are your cooling tubes going up at a 90 degree angle in relation to the ride pad?

nata2run
06-17-2012, 07:38 AM
So how bad was it?Have you tested the rest of the cooling system?And are your cooling tubes going up at a 90 degree angle in relation to the ride pad?
Well it was bad enough, definitely can drive like this, you can blow through the cooling system but not with ease, if that makes sense. The pipe is at 90 degrees yes. But I wonder if the tear drop need to be a certain length or depth? The other option is to install a hose with a larger diameter.

srislash
06-17-2012, 07:51 AM
What diameter is the hose now? I have gone thru all my fittings with a drill bit and make larger fittings for the cooling jackets.If it is having a hard time pushing the water thru opening the flow will help.On my Geico I got a good 1/8th throughout.The FC I think is 7/64th with 1/8 lines.
Another thing I can suggest is try to reinstall the 90 degree tube with a swept rearward angle to it.With them straight up you would need pressure built up to make water travel up them(I would think).
You could also elongate the teardrop.They do look a bit short.

Shawn

nata2run
06-17-2012, 08:29 AM
Shawn, I think it a combination of small hose and "short teardrop" I have made the teardrop longer, so before I change the tube I'll see if it has made any effect if I change it all and no good then I'll turn to the metal ones that I know work. Did you watch the vid by the way? The doc has some more coming once it uploads, but I think his still on a 28 modem LOL

nata2run
06-17-2012, 08:34 AM
http://youtu.be/j7fpwcsCF9A from the doc

srislash
06-17-2012, 08:46 AM
Yeah I watched the vid.It looks good.So those were the 4818's?It looks good and stable.I got to watch Docs now and I'm getting mine from yesterday up from the Shocker.

Prop-a-Gator
06-17-2012, 09:09 AM
Nice to see her hit the water! Looks like she rides nice and flat

Regarding the cooling issue, are your temps high or are you not seeing water exit flow? Here is a link to a HPR115 build (http://bbs.5imx.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=411096&page=1#pid5323950) that I used as a guide for making my through hull inlets. The photography is some of the best I've seen for a build thread. Then again, I've noticed that Manuel doesn't bother with angling his water inlet tubes. His are basically vertical with a teardrop added like yours. If you have an adequate teardrop, you're probably fine.

If you're having trouble blowing through your cooling circuit, maybe you should check out the motor water jacket issue found in the link above. The water fittings were threaded too deep and impinged on the motor can - restricting flow. I'm not sure this is even possible with your LMT jackets since they don't look threaded, but thought I would mention.

nata2run
06-17-2012, 09:17 AM
Thanks gator, I have read that thread a while ago. Motor jackets are fine, no problem there, but tube is only 3mm and teardrops are/were small. I have now sorted the teardrop so will see how it turns out. If all works and can keep her cold, I'll hook up the 8s for some real fun.

Oh didn't really see any water flow from the exits

bruiser77
06-17-2012, 10:05 AM
Looks good in the water Kent. Hope my maiden goes that well! Great job. FYI, I hooked up my receiver to the MHZ antenna and it works flawless.

Cervelo
06-17-2012, 10:08 AM
Wunderschönes Boot.Super edel gebaut.Einfach der Wahnsinn.:thumbup:
Wünsche dir viel Erfolg bei der Erstfahrt.

Chrisg81983
06-17-2012, 10:36 AM
Looks good !!! For the cooling problem if i remember correctly I think the tubes need to be angled a bit more. They seemed a little straight when you first did them. I will try to get some pics loaded with the pickups that I had. The only problem is the two boats they were on I sold. I should have some pics though

nata2run
06-17-2012, 11:06 AM
@ Charles, YOUR ALIVE!! And thanks for the compliments. Of cause you will have a good maiden as you have invested a lot of effort in this build. I wish you all the best, and please.....get that boat done before Xmas.

@ Christian.... What can I say, your builds have been the number 1 inspiration for my builds, and here you are complimenting on my boat. I guess only thing to say is ... Thank you ... DANKE

(Christian .... Was kann ich sagen, Ihr eingebauter waren die Nummer 1 Inspiration für meine Boote, und hier sind Sie auf meinem Boot Komplimenteren. Nur, was ich sagen kann ist ... Ein großes DANKE)

@ Chris hopefully it will work after making the teardrop a little bigger. If not then I'll replace it with a proper under hull pickup. Don't know what possessed me to do it this way when a had a great success in installing in the other hull.

drwayne
06-17-2012, 06:35 PM
Shawn, I think it a combination of small hose and "short teardrop" I have made the teardrop longer, so before I change the tube I'll see if it has made any effect if I change it all and no good then I'll turn to the metal ones that I know work. Did you watch the vid by the way? The doc has some more coming once it uploads, but I think his still on a 28 modem LOL

I upload slow because I know you like waiting ...

The Mystic had water flow, evident on my vid , but the motors returned as egg cooker cans.
Hopefully higher voltage and lower amp draw will result less heating.
The pickup teardrops were small .. more suited a small boat.. this cat needs LOTS !

FYI, these sf240hv esc cool by both air convection and water passthrough.
Kent has his esc wrapped in 3mm insulation squished between cf tray and deck.. not good for cooling the unit.

DocW

nata2run
06-17-2012, 07:51 PM
I upload slow because I know you like waiting ...

The Mystic had water flow, evident on my vid , but the motors returned as egg cooker cans.
Hopefully higher voltage and lower amp draw will result less heating.
The pickup teardrops were small .. more suited a small boat.. this cat needs LOTS !

FYI, these sf240hv esc cool by both air convection and water passthrough.
Kent has his esc wrapped in 3mm insulation squished between cf tray and deck.. not good for cooling the unit.

DocW

"Kent has his esc wrapped in 3mm insulation squished between cf tray and deck.. not good for cooling the unit."
Not wrapped just edges so they dont slide, there is still air between all the parts for airflow. I even made room for a fan if needed

please ask if in doupt of how things were made.