Cad/cam and Machining Services

[J Solinger]

I have 27 years in the machining and tooling industry. I now have a Haas vmc in my shop and also do design and drafting work. If you have a couple components or thousands of them that you need help with I would be happy to quote a price for manufacture. My rates are very reasonable and I provide a professional service.

[Steven Vaccaro]

First thing you can do is start making your hardware again!!!!! :buttrock:

[egneg]

First thing you can do is start making your hardware again!!!!! :buttrock:

:iagree:

[Diegoboy]

+1 on the Solinger HW

[hazegry]

WOOHOO THE SEXY HARDWARE IS BACK! Can we get it in various sizes?

[Diegoboy]

For those that don't know what we're talking about...

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/images/forsale/solinger.JPG

70540

[Bullwink]

Way cool looking Hardware!

[J Solinger]

New hardware is in the pipeline.

[Diegoboy]

AWESOME Joe!! I can't wait to see it.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50945&d=1285203026

Will you continue the best line of HW on the planet? See pics above.

[J Solinger]

An improved version of the hydro and mono set will be the first out, just the one size. An outboard is to come later.

[Diegoboy]

I can't wait to see them Joe!!

[detox]

A couple size hydro turnfins and mounting brackets are needed. A two hole mounting bracket with elongated top bolt hole for inward angle adjustability.

[Meniscus]

Joe, it's great to see you online again. I hope all is well. Write me down for one of the hydro sets, but I'd like a narrower nose for wire drive. Do you makes struts with bearings? I seem to remember you did that for a few of your personal models.

[ray schrauwen]

Too bad nobody makes a skegged strut to fit a MissGeico, hint, hint.... HINT!

[J Solinger]

Hi Meniscus, good to see you too. Ball bearing struts with changable noses? I've got a design for them but it still needs work.

Hi Ray. Well, my list is realy long but if I catch up I'll run some.

[riptide1]

Joe, I have a big prop balancer that has adjustable cones for different sized prop shafts. These cones with thumb screws make it impossible for me to balance the floating shaft, before putting a prop on it. I would have to balance each part individually due to the design of taking it apart and putting it back in a different position each time you work the prop. I only use 3/16" props, so it would be great to have just a 3/16" shaft perfectly balanced with machined end points.76640766417664276643

[riptide1]

Guys please don't say get a TFL balancer, because I have one and the finish on the magnets has come off in less than 6 months. 7664476645

[ray schrauwen]

Shafts are the main difficulty. Kintec has been trying to get a machine shop to do the precision grinding required for these kinds of shafts.

I'm not shure if you could do it by machining, it may not be true. Precision circular grinding is a bit of an art. I have been thinking to attempt this but, I don't have the right machines.


Joe, I have a big prop balancer that has adjustable cones for different sized prop shafts. These cones with thumb screws make it impossible for me to balance the floating shaft, before putting a prop on it. I would have to balance each part individually due to the design of taking it apart and putting it back in a different position each time you work the prop. I only use 3/16" props, so it would be great to have just a 3/16" shaft perfectly balanced with machined end points.76640766417664276643

[riptide1]

Ray, I'm glad to hear others have discovered this need. My props would be a little better if I could get more precision from the balancer tool.
Shafts are the main difficulty. Kintec has been trying to get a machine shop to do the precision grinding required for these kinds of shafts.

I'm not shure if you could do it by machining, it may not be true. Precision circular grinding is a bit of an art. I have been thinking to attempt this but, I don't have the right machines.

[Chrisg81983]

@ riptide what make is this balancer and where did u get it thanks Chris g
Joe, I have a big prop balancer that has adjustable cones for different sized prop shafts. These cones with thumb screws make it impossible for me to balance the floating shaft, before putting a prop on it. I would have to balance each part individually due to the design of taking it apart and putting it back in a different position each time you work the prop. I only use 3/16" props, so it would be great to have just a 3/16" shaft perfectly balanced with machined end points.76640766417664276643

[riptide1]

Chris, here's the link ...http://www.whhonline.com/product-p/acc25.htm I really like the big high power neodymium magnets with a nice finish ...now if only I could find someone to knock out a 3/16" shaft for it.
@ riptide what make is this balancer and where did u get it thanks Chris g

[Basstronics]

All you need is any surface grinder and a whirly gig.

Put the shaft in a collet, put it on the magnet at some angle, use side of grinding wheel. Set the part by side of wheel. Raise wheel, push part out a bit. Start grinder and bring the wheel down slowly. You will probably get a nice size radius on the wheel if you are doing alot. Just a few shouldnt hurt.

[ray schrauwen]

All you need is any surface grinder and a whirly gig.

Put the shaft in a collet, put it on the magnet at some angle, use side of grinding wheel. Set the part by side of wheel. Raise wheel, push part out a bit. Start grinder and bring the wheel down slowly. You will probably get a nice size radius on the wheel if you are doing alot. Just a few shouldnt hurt.

I thought of this too or using my lathe and a dremel. I don't know the dremel runout tolerances though..

[Basstronics]

How would you attach the dremel?

Runout, probably not very good.

Any metal lather with a carbide bit will push/distort the material close to the point. Hi speed steel is WAAAAYYYY sharper, but to get a good point you gotta be dead center. Which as you know never happens.

Do you have an OD grinding attachment for your lathe?

I guess the technical name for the "whirly gig" is a punch former. Every shop Ive worked in has had one.

http://www.machinetools.net.tw/parts/taiwan_punch_former.htm

4:45 mark or so

[ray schrauwen]

I would have made a "whirly gig" to try it on my lathe but, I have some nice shafts.

You can get new good quality magnets to replace what has gone bad from China.

http://www.supermagnetman.net/index.php?cPath=37&page=3

...and for $12 you can get a fairly decent shaft (w/whole balancer) but, the shaft is 3mm from China.

[Meniscus]

I guess what I'm confused about is, why not just use a tiger paw on the grinder? I would think that you could start with any shaft that is true and work from there. As long as the shaft is spinning, I don't see the issue. I'm probably missing something here in translation. After all, how many of us truly profile the blades, not to mention the cupping or thickness? In my book, I think that would matter more. Plus most folks use bushings. That means you've got a certain level of deflection at speed anyway. That's one of the main reasons why I've gone to bearings in the strut. Yeah, it's considerably more expensive, but I've never had an issue with them, as long as you break them in first prior to running.

[J Solinger]

What length do you need from point to point?

[riptide1]

Joe,

90mm is what it has now. I know that drill blanks are sometimes sold in 3 1/2" lengths which is 88.9mm and would be close enough. I can ship the balancer and/or the rod.
What length do you need from point to point?

[120man]

Hi Joe
Looks like you do incredible work.
I need help on a dual rudder setup. I need to attach a steering linkage to the water passages of 2 rudders, and keep the water flow from the pickups. Im thinking if you can make me a threaded tube to screw in, I can attach the link to that and put the coolant hose on last. Here is a rough pic of what Im going for...
82900
I was hoping you could open up the hole and re-thread it to a larger size, but Im not sure there is enough room.
If you have a better Idea, or if I can clarify in any way let me know. If I can get a "round about" price that would be great
Thanks,
Jeremiah

[J Solinger]

Hi Jeremiah. What size thread is in there now? Maybe we can come up with something quick and easy.

[120man]

Hi Joe
Its an 8-32 thread. I would need 4 pcs. 1 inch long, preferably stainless, with as big of a hole in it as possible.
Thanks
Jeremiah

[gyrotron]

Great hardware design Joe.

[J Solinger]

Jeremiah, I've done some looking around to see if there are items out there that you could build up the dual rudder linkage your looking for. I dont have a lathe, I just do mill work, and your parts need to be turned on a lathe. You will find alot of rod ends and turn buckles in the rc car parts areas. Much of this stuff can be put together to achieve what you are trying to do.

[ray schrauwen]

Hi Joe
Looks like you do incredible work.
I need help on a dual rudder setup. I need to attach a steering linkage to the water passages of 2 rudders, and keep the water flow from the pickups. Im thinking if you can make me a threaded tube to screw in, I can attach the link to that and put the coolant hose on last. Here is a rough pic of what Im going for...
82900


I was hoping you could open up the hole and re-thread it to a larger size, but Im not sure there is enough room.
If you have a better Idea, or if I can clarify in any way let me know. If I can get a "round about" price that would be great
Thanks,
Jeremiah

Jeremiah, it would be easier to extend the rudder pivot pin to create the linkage you want. You can use a drill bit shank cut off with dremel to get one longer than stock. I did this on a mono way back using speedmaster hardware.

You can't use the water pickup beacause it would need a bearing since it is off the turning axis.

[120man]

OK joe, I really appreciate you looking into it and Ill for sure keep you in mind for future projects.
Jeremiah

[120man]

Ray,
I think I understand what youre saying. Ill definitely look into that. Thanks for the tip.
Jeremiah