P1 kos 35" offset rudder.

[lenny]

Hi,:tiphat:
Has anybody tried making the rudder offset on the p1 kos 35"?
And if so, Does it help the boat a lot or not ? http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?19031-P1-Offset-Rudder
I am doing some mods to run the boat on 4s2p 25c to 35c 5800mah on each side of the motor,
With stock motor,esc, and hardware and a x640 prop.
I will also add some turns fins to,
I have not ran the boat yet, So am not sure how well they run with stock rudder setup inline.

Thanks for any help or info.:beerchug:

Lenny D

[tlandauer]

Hi Lenny,
I plan to run for the second time tomorrow if everything goes well. My first run was cut short by a bad coupler, I didn't notice any major issues with handling, both right and left turns are within my expectation , I know each person has different expectation. I don't race so I have no need to up grade. One thing I did notice is that the transom is not flat, it curves and it would be hard for me to put an offset rudder. I ran 3s with a X642, it was very smooth, the prop bites right away. The stock 3 blade prop was just awful. I plan to run a X640 tomorrow. I will pit a Seaking 120A ESC and then run 4s. I am a bit concerned about the stock ESC dealing with 4s. That is just me... ofcourse.

[lenny]

The stock esc is really a 60amp seaking and should good to 6s,
But 5s I think would be tops, And the stock motor will handle 4s.
That stock motor on 5s would not last to long, So I hear.
The rudder I was thinking of this, But on the right side.lol
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?19031-P1-Offset-Rudder

[lenny]

How where your temps with the x642 and what cells c & mah where using ?
And how much run time did you get ?

I am just about rtr to,
Just need one bolt and thumb nut to make my water proof hatch seal,
And test for leaks wednesday I think.

TTYL.

[tlandauer]

My Temp was all good, the longest run I made w/o opening the hatch to check was about 5 min. The ESC's temp was 110* and the motor a bit warmer, 129* . ( wish a bit lower but this was running full tilt) I used Sky Lipo 5000 mAh, 40 C, 3s. I got at least 7 min.+ with 33% Capacity left after checking the battery with Hyperion EOS Sentry. The batt. temp was 90*
I had wanted to connect two of these batteries in a parallel way to increase runtime, alas, the ESC won't arm for some reason, I posted a question in the "Battery&Chargers" thread but have yet to receice any advice.

[lenny]

I hear the outrunners motors can run at 200 f and be ok,
But with a water cooled motor mount the temps should be better and help the motor to.

I did not see any post for help there,

When you tried to arm, Was your tx on ?
You may need to rebind tx to rx and calibrate the throttle and reset your esc again.

[tlandauer]

Thanks, I posted under " Charger, Battery talk, info and question", title is " Need Help to Understand Deans Parallel Plug", Yes, I binded the Rx and Tx, the ESC arms as soon as I plug in with the regular way, i.e. one single battery. I don't even have to do this, but the fact that it is not working really bugs me, but I thinik maybe this is too silly, nobody gives a hoot so therfore no answer. well, it is good to hear that these out runners can sustain a higher temp.

[tlandauer]

OK, I GPS'ed 3s with x642, it is only 29mph, then with 4s , running with x640, speed picked up to 41 mph!, that is a 12 mile jump. I used the stock ESC, temp was good, 90* ESC, motor was same, these are 2 min. runs. The stinger is in neg. setting----- the bottom of the bracket is lined up with 4+ hence the stinger is pointing down.

[lenny]

Was it running wet ?
I think the setup likes the amps from the 4s cells,
Temps are good with the x640 on 4s, Try the x642 and check temps.
The deans you should ditch, And go with 5.5 bullets,
It may give better power and run cooler to.
I was going to start at 0 at the stinger and see what it does,
Same with trim tabs.

[tlandauer]

Hi, it is not running wet, infact I had to lower it to get rid of the poiposing. Didn't have time to try x642, will do next time.
Thanks for your advice, I am actually using 5.5 mm plug on 4s configuration. Its when I was running with 3s , my battery already has Deans. I made an adaptor so I can use Deans. There is correct voltage coming out on all sides of the plugs.anyway, now that I am running 4s, I will not use Deans. By the way, my trim tab is set at neutral .

[tlandauer]

It was windy today, but I wanted to try the x642, it worked very well, I don't think the difference is really that noticeable , the hull does have chine walk, I ajusted a bit the stinger, but all in all because of the windy situation I can't tell too much. The ESC stayed cool, upper 90* , motor is warmer than x640, like 120*, these are 3 min. runs.
Did you by any chance try your P1 yet?
Best, Tim

[lenny]

Hi Tim,
No I did not run yet, Tomorrow for sure I will test.
Did you put turn fins on your boat yet ?
I hear this boat likes choppy water, Is that what you where running in today with the winds ?
You said chine walk, Do you mean like a death wobble at top speed ?
If so, May be trim tabs down some would help.
But you will lose some speed to,
But it will handle better and should not flip to easy like that.

[tlandauer]

Hi Lenny,
The seller had installed turn fins and I assume they are the micro sized ones from OSE, they work really well for turns, no spin out! Yes, the wind was strong, medium chops, the boat could handle that w/o problem. My chine walk happens at top speed just as you said, the front of the boat reminds me of a Cobra snake. However, she doesn't come close to flipping, I also noticed the rudder bracket is not mounted 100% perpendicular to the V bottom, these being RTRs, production variance. So the in-line rudder is creating some sort of disturbance, IMO. Your idea of an off-set rudder will help. BTY, same thing on my Miss Geico, with the Kintec off-set, the boat tracks as if on rails, the stock one has chine walk even on that Cat hull, at least mine.---This is another topic.
Have a great time tomorrow!

[lenny]

Ran today,
Not running bad, But I think I will need some turn fins.
I reversed the stock trim tap turn fin to see if that would help any,
But I do not think it did,
The stock turn fin trim tab is adding to much drag I think.
I may try it with out them and see what happens with temps speed.
But with the 3s cell back some I think it help with the turns and did not slide out much.
Windy and some chop but looked like it was running good at top speed on 4s2p and ran once on 3s with cell back some.
4 minute on 4s2p with a x640 prop, Temps where a little high at first and I moved cells back some.
Temps, 95 f cells, 160 f esc caps and 135 f esc, 175 f motor.
No gps today, Just testing the setup,
All and all I think it ran a little wet today but stable at top speeds and fun.

[tlandauer]

Sounds pretty good to me!
Do you have the newer version Turnfin/tabs, I bought the new P1 a month or so ago- never ran but meanwhile I got a used one here and have been running the used one instead! I was curious as to how they worked, I was thinking reversing them as well.
Did you modify your battery placement? Remember you saying placing them on both sides of the motor.
Good that you don't have chine walk, I am going to ajust the tabs per your suggestions.

[tlandauer]

Well, I watched the boat very carefully and thought maybe it was running a bit wet still, ajusted the stinger up a bit, got rid of the chine. I was really happy 'till i noticed she was kind of slow, decided to bring her in, about 3 ft. before me she stopped dead, I can see inside the hatch was filled with smoke. After carefully observing that it was not a slow fire , I opened the hatch, man, smells bad, but it was not the ESC!! rather the loose silicone cooling tube had bounced around and somehow got caught with the out-runner. Now my motor is damaged, do you know other than Venom who has these motors? They are out of stock and God knows when they will have them, these motor has a "collar" for the motor mount to clamp.

[lenny]

A link for modded cell setup,
Hear.http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?32356-Batteries-either-side-of-the-motor.
A video of the setup.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDzVngkHZ3E

[lenny]

New turn fins & trim tabs from venom,
This is my boat stock,Before mods.
Not sure if they work to well.7079670797707987079970800

[lenny]

Hear are some motors that will fit the stock motor mount if you do not want to change it yet,
Better then venom and cheaper to.
Link,http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?19203-Would-this-be-a-direct-replacement-motor

[lenny]

Add turn fins mod,
These look nice to.:beerchug:
Link,
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?18594-Turn-fins-installed-(pics)&p=245182#post245182

[tlandauer]

Thanks for the links, I am waiting from Fightercat for some answer/advice, looks like he is out of the 2200Kv version, these motors look good, and is half the prize. meanwhile I soldered the plugs and put in the 120A ESC. I have those turn fins, not in red but in natural silver color. I have no intention to push the boat to exceed 50 mph and therefore I didn't observe any torque roll tendency. I like your idea of modding the battery position, I might consider doing that later .
As an aside, the fried motor still works, but you shoud see how it looks inside: as if been thru a nuclear attack. The windings are blobs!! lol...

[lenny]

Did you take the motor apart ?
If so,
May be with a heat gun and tweezers you could get the stuff off and still use it.
I think my temps were high because the x640 prop that came with the boat was not S & B,
I looked good at it today.lol
I will try two good S & B props tomorrow, A s215 and a m440.

[tlandauer]

No, I didn't think about. That is at least a fun idea, had to work, may be later in the week. Sears, of all place, carries the motor, price a bit high.didn't have time to do more research.
Have fun tomorrow!

[tlandauer]

No dice, I took it apart after coming home. The blob on the windings is the burned lacquer on the copper wire. It only looks like a blob but will flake off when touched. Boy, the motor still turns, but I am not going to connect it again to electricity ever again, it is a very nice paper weight now on my desk! lol...
BTW, the quality inside the motor looks quite good, the magnets are still firmly epoxied to the casing of the rotor. All epoxy survived the heat, no discoloration. bearings are still good.

[lenny]

Hi Tom,
Do you know what your timing is set at on your old boat with bad motor ?
If not, May be you can hook the program card to the esc and see what it is set at.

The weather has bin to windy to run hear so I started modding some things again.
I added turn fins and modded the stock trim tabs / turn fin combo to just wider trim tabs,
It amazing what a hammer can do, :bash:
Next came making the stock rudder offset to the right,
And I will test higher timing setting on the esc and motor to see if they will run cooler or not,
Also made a seal for the hatch to lay on and one bolt and thumb nut to hold the hatch down.
I should try to reinforce the hatch to at some time, It just not to strong.
Now I just need to sink it and look for leak, :Sinking:
I will post some pictures of what I did so far.

I will test everything tomorrow.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

HI Lenny,
I will check tomorrow, got to leave for work, Jamespl wrote on your other thread that Venom told him the timing is set at 11 deg. For your info, my motor was very warm, but my ESC was no where near your temp. I will see what the 60A ESC is set at. My 120A is set 15deg. But I have not run it yet.
Can't wait to see your mods!:tongue_smilie:

[tlandauer]

Well I checked the 60A ESC that came with the boat, it is set at 15 deg. I wouldn't know if the previous owner has ajusted any of the settings. I decided the take the motor from my other NIB P1 and give it a run with the 120A ESC I put in a few days ago. The motor seemed to be more eager to rev up. Accel. from stop is stronger---there is no doubt about that.
Don't know if it is because of the ESC or the newer motor.
Temps were similar, with motor being on the warm side like 139-149 deg. Front of motor being the hottest at 160 deg., where the motor clamp is, pointing the temp gun into the windings the temp is lower:i.e. 139-149 deg. . ESC was never above 110 deg--not even at the cap side. Batt. were at 90deg. ( Gens Ace 5300mAh, 2s1p 30c from HobbyPartz)
x642prop
ESC set at 15 deg.

[lenny]

Good to hear your back and running, :beerchug:
What speeds are you getting with 3s1p ?
When you ran your old motor before the tubing problem, Were you using the Gens ace cells than ?

[tlandauer]

Thanks,
yes, I was using the same batteries. I am actually running on 4s. I didn't check the speed, last GPS reading was 41mph, 3s was 29mph. Today was similar. I thought it might have been a bit faster because there was a hint of chine walk again, I raised the stinger a little, now almost 0 deg. (neutral). It was by and large gone.
Post some pic when you have a chance, dying to see your mods.

[lenny]

Ok,
I was thinking the gens, kicked motor up.
My temps are down, I think it was the bad prop.
I try that again and see if they go back up.
Ran good today, And tried it on 3s1p 5 packs and best GPS 29.5 mph with a x442.
I forgot my new x642 prop, That will be next to try.
I put pack in center of boat all the way to back with the gps.
It drives great with the offset rudder, I move the turn fins up just about out of the water.
But that did not change how great it drives with the rudder offset.
Hears some pictures and videos,7111171112711137111471115

[lenny]

With the offset rudder mod,
The rudder is 1 1/2" offset from the stinger to the starboard side.
I made a aluminum off set plate that is 2mm thick and 24mm wide and 53mm long,
Than drilled 4 hole for the mounting screws after I traced the stock mounting holes to the plate.
Two for above the stock stinger rudder mount holes that I used longer screws and nuts for,
And two to mount the stock rudder bracket too with the two stock screws that were for it.

More pictures,7111771118711197112071121

[lenny]

Some more,7112271123711247112571126

Video to come.

[tlandauer]

Lenny,
Can I send my boat to you?! lol... :tongue_smilie: Wow! Looks great, that rudder bracket looks so cool in black, I got more question but have to leave for work again...
Congrats!!

[lenny]

See if can get this video up,
http://www.youtu.be/vnP2uUoj3g4

http://youtu.be/WoCc8smkmZY

[lenny]

Part two,
http://youtu.be/vnP2uUoj3g4

[tlandauer]

Way to go!:bowdown: I think she is running really well, very smooth, I am sure the off set rudder made a real differance, I always had to slow down a bit for turns because I did not want to push the limit, other than that with 3s the attitude looked very similar. I think yours will definately run better with 4s at full speed.:thumbup:
Liked your ESC stand, nice layout inside. Infact that is some operation the interior had gone thru.
Did you add more reinforcement for the transom? I worry about the transom not having a doubler.
My turn fins were installed much lower than yours, more drag I am sure, also what kind of trim tabs are you using?
If you don't mind, I will post more questions, just got home, very tired.

[lenny]

No problem, :tiphat:
Ask what you want.
Yes, Just little rigging in the modding to see what works, But nothing permanent.
I try to use what I have on hand and make it work.
The trim tabs are the new stock one,:lol: I just modded them.:bash:
I did not do any reinforcement yet, The transom seam to be strong enough on it om I think.
But the hatch need to be modded for strength encase of a good blow over I think.
That will be next in line for some chop.
I need to get a good cheap used camcorder for better videos.:glare:

[lenny]

Way to go!:bowdown: I think she is running really well, very smooth, I am sure the off set rudder made a real differance, I always had to slow down a bit for turns because I did not want to push the limit, other than that with 3s the attitude looked very similar. I think yours will definately run better with 4s at full speed.:thumbup:
Liked your ESC stand, nice layout inside. Infact that is some operation the interior had gone thru.
Did you add more reinforcement for the transom? I worry about the transom not having a doubler.
My turn fins were installed much lower than yours, more drag I am sure, also what kind of trim tabs are you using?
If you don't mind, I will post more questions, just got home, very tired.

Do you have any pictures of your boat ?
So I can see what you are taking about on the strut bolts and strut plate.
I found some things wrong and need to fix them,
The stock bullet on motor to esc are a weak link,
I temped them at 155 f and that heat is power loss and not good.
And I will change them to 5.5 and check them again.

Still running on 3s1p & 3s2p, Best prop so far for speed was the x442 at 30.5 mph temps good.
But I do see some torque roll and will try a grim 40x52/3 and a L40x57/3 or a x440/3,
To see if they work or help any with the balance of the boat.
I had my first flip over and it got a little wet inside,:glare:
But all is good and still working.
I just need to mod the hatch and seal a little bit more.

[tlandauer]

HI,
Thanks for asking for the pics. Had a concert last night and I was beat! I thought the stock bullets were 4 mm jobs, better than Pro Boat's 3.5mm, lol... they were ok on mine, may be you had a bad solder from the factory?
The X442 was also my first chioce but I nicked it on my maiden run.:frusty:
As you can see, my boat is stock, only thing I did was put extra FG from the battery platform forward on the floor area until I can no longer reach under the deck. Also near the bow on topunderside of course. The trnsom shot you can see the epoxy encased stinger plate. All the nuts are epoxied in, so I don't want to loosen any bolts to damage the epoxy inside.
712400

[tlandauer]

more pics, never know how to upload!71241 By the way, you will see a little chunk of the rudder was gone along side of the leading edge, I assume the previous owner has a mishap, I ordered a new one but couldn't tell the difference so I am using this one, it has no ill effects on ride quality so far as I can tell. Are your batteries by the side of the motor? I bias mine on the port side and still notice when running the boat rolls to starboardside, I am sure you will have her dialed in real smooth.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

Ok, last pic.71243, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer :olleyes:

[lenny]

Yes I know what you mean about CP,
Let a lone if you can not spell. lol
I love auto save on hear.

Ok, Mine looks about the same with the plate and stock epoxy over it,
If you did the rudder offset, You will only remove the stinger bolts and not the plate.
I would need one measurement from the stern starboard side to the trim tab adjusting bolt with nut.
You need 1 1/4 "for the rudder arm and bracket.
If you want do the mod I will walk you though it.
You will use water hose hole for servo rod and old rod hole for water hose.

[tlandauer]

Thanks for the offer, you mean you need measurement from me? right? I might not be able to get it now, but will attemp later, concerts this weekend!:doh: BTY, that is brilliant to use the existing holes for the mod, I was dreading to drill holes.

[lenny]

Ok, last pic.71243, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer :olleyes:
Yes you,
That port side battery plug wire cover looks scary:flashfire::hide:
I just use a cap on the red wire plugs.
Nice grease cover you have, Looks like half a shot glass.
What boat is that in your avatar ? Looks nice.

[tlandauer]

Yes, it looks scary,:thumbsdown: I will cover them,thanks. My neg. are covered with heat shrink tube conformed to plug, actually very snug, since that is male plug, but I see the exposed bit of copper plug coming out of the positive.
Got idea from a pic here with the grease cover, just cut the epoxy mixing cup and you have it!
My trim tab base is so wide, I am not sure I understand your required clearance for your rudder arm because I am afraid I don't have enough space for it. You can see it is a "double Decker Version, top plate will get in the way. "...from Stern starboardside to trim tab adjusting boltwith nut"? Sorry
Avatar: MHZ Micro Fountain, thanks.

[lenny]

Ok, last pic.71243, sorry to take this long. Slow at computer :olleyes:

The blue water hose that go,s out the side of the boat,
And the two wire black and red that look like their both together in the black thing.
That is what looked scary to me.:noidea:

Do your wires from the esc go all the way around the boat to the other side were the water outlet is ?

[tlandauer]

Thanks for the concern, really appreciate it. The photo makes it look like the two wires are touching, It is not and the black neg is completely covered in the heat shrink tube cap. But I will be more careful. Yes, the battery leads from the ESC is pointing to the back, on starboardside, when I connect, the wires are away from the turning motor. And I tape them flush on the batteries body, making sure no chance of being caught with the rotor. Having said that, I still had the misfortune of the water hose caught in the motor causing motor failure. Now off I have 50 miles to drive to concert hall, :doh:Thanks for all the threads, want to know more of your on-going tests.
Tim

[lenny]

Look at my pictures in post #31 and at the far right picture.
You would measure 1 1/4" from right side corner of the boat to my trim tab adjusting bar,
That has the bolt with lock nut so it wont move.

I still can make it work its not the same as what I have, My rudder is from center of boat over, 1 1/2"
Just will need to know your measurement on yours.

[tlandauer]

Hi, Thanks for the prompt, My measurement is 1 3/4'' from the corner to the center of the bolt. How is the weather there? Here is great but have no time.

[lenny]

Hi,:tiphat: How was your gig ?

Like I said we can make it work,:tongue_smilie: Just need the right size hammer.:bash:
The weather hear is sunny and 45 f winds 20 to 50 mph, Just a little to much chop for testing.
I will be testing some more tomorrow to see if the 5.5 helped any and try some more props,
A X440/3 and grims 40 X 52/3 and a L40 X 57/3 and see what happens.
Than see how it likes 4s1p and 4s2p.
The last time I ran 3s2p the cells were all the way back to the servo stand and my gps was next to the servo,
But than it flip and got wet.
I put more seal around the hatch, So I will have to test that to.:sinking-guy:

[tlandauer]

The gig was OK, one more tonight, then a new set of program starting tomorrow:doh: Usually it is rare to have back to back schedule like this, that means can't go to the water:frusty:
Sorry to hear your flipped boat.Hope everything dried up. I am not as disciplined as you or other members when it come to ajusting COG, I put my GPS infront of the motor when I checked the speed, I know it is laughable...

[lenny]

What every works for you with the gps, I just had room their.
Ok some good news and bad news.
The bad was,
The hot glue I used on the motor mount,
Got hot and it was coming lose at the end of the last runs back to back of the day.
Good news, The 5.5 made a big difference in temps and power on 3s and 4s.
The hatch seal was water tight when I tested it,
I ran on 4s2p with x442 and gps a 38 mph, Than 4s2p with a x440/3 and gps at 39mph and it ran better.
Hears some video on 4s2p 30c 5800mah packs with the x440/3 prop,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDdh7fd3c3g&context=C36afcabADOEgsToPDskJl3GsSeEZ3VTmyF-HCdiHg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJeJPe05w00&context=C3906363ADOEgsToPDskL5EoY959UP5ETZvaiBZm6t

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaoK3XGC-xc&context=C3da704aADOEgsToPDskJT_Js0bkuGyKvvfm9DasZj

What do you think ?:popcorn2:

[tlandauer]

:tiphat: Like I said::bowdown: Lenny, looks fab! You really dialed her in. The rudder makes a huge differance. I don't understand the hot glue part. I was always afraid the temp on the motor mount would eventually make the epoxy and fibre glass brittle.
Your speed is really good for the P1, I don't think one can push too much further plus the scale look makes her look real good on the water.
Funny you posted today, was just going to say that I decided to ask you how you modified the stock trim tabs, I don't want to do the mod on this hull, think I will do on the other one that I have not used. Easier to take things apart and I like to use the trim tab w/o the bent down part---think you might have cut them.
Anyway, I am in for a real busy spell---guess that is good for my fleet:rofl: If you don't mind I will ask more questions regarding the material you used for the off set arm, etc.
thnks

[lenny]

I was out of epoxy so I grabbed my hot glue gun when I had to fix the stock motor mount and bolts that were stripped out,
It worked on other stuff so I thought why not.
But not thinking how hot outrunners are with no water cooling,
So the glue started to get soft again from the motor heat, You can hear it in the last run I made.
Trim tabs I took off outside screws and than inside adjuster bolts, But you need to take the wood out to get to them.
I made my wood removable now with wire ties and a brace for them to go though.
Than I flatted them with a vise and hammer :bash:and sanded and polish them,
The offset bracket is 5/64 aluminum and you will need 4 new bolts, Two of them tapered with lock nuts.
When you are ready I will walk you though it.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

Thanks, off to rehearsal! Also I think the 5.5mm plug is a real good idea, I have that on my ESC batt. leads but the motor i left them with 4mm, maybe I should up grade. I can't believe you really used hammer to flatten them, looks smooth! Thought you grinded them off.

[lenny]

I see you got some new boats,
The little hydro should be fun.
I have a mini bolt that runs on 3s and is really fun.

:thumbup:

[tlandauer]

I forgot to tell you that the T500 motors came from Fightercat, nice motor but the diameter of the thin rim which the motor clamp could grip is larger by 1mm, still have not got time to try. I then also was wondering since you can mount that motor the regular way, it fits on a 4074 motor mount (OSE-80600), if one were to rip the stock mount out, can that set up work on the hull? I noticed how low the stock motor "sits" in the clamp, the 4074 is a bit higher. Still, this mount has water cooler and the fiberglass mounting will not heat up the hull like the stock mount.
Any thoughts?

[lenny]

Yes that motor will fit in the stock mount, That motor was in mine when I got it.
I Just had to fix the stock mount and see how it ran with the stock motor,
And yes water cooled mount is nice and will work with a little modding.
Boat on water heat go,s through the hull,Just a transfer factor.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

yeah, I know, as long as the boat is on water that is fine, I worry when I take it out to change batteries or temp the motor and ESC, have you touched the legs of the clamps?! it gets hot and my motor's front is the hottest @ 150* or so. Which Kv do you have? 1600Kv or 2200Kv?
BTW, your Bolt is quite fast at 30mph! I think my DF Mini Hydro RTR is at high 20's, but it sure is fun, it has a BIG turnfin.:roflol:

[lenny]

I have the,1600, T1800, 2200, and t600 1400kv,
My temps are getting better on the motor 135 f.
You should try a x440 prop and the 5.5 to on the motor.

Thanks I just did some mods to the hydro and need gps it again.

[tlandauer]

So you ran the T500 motor, but which Kv specifically? You mean T600 also fits?
135* is good!

[lenny]

No I have not run any of them yet, I see what stock does first.
And then I see what I can mod to make it work better and handle better.
Then more motor may be.
And the t600 is a monster, That my go in my 36" shockwave.

[lenny]

So you ran the T500 motor, but which Kv specifically? You mean T600 also fits?
135* is good!

Ok up date, Water was 45f and ran on a 3s1p 30c 4500mah pack and got 8 minutes run GPS AT 28 MPH.
All temps were good and temp at the motor mount clamp was 115 f getting better.
So if modded with a water cooled mount it should be a really cool running setup.

[tlandauer]

That sounds great! The temp is really good now, 115 at motor mount clamp is nothing!:thumbup1:

[Joe007]

Lenny can you post some pictures of your rudder set up.

[tlandauer]

Joe, did you look at post #31? Lenny posted them when he made the mod a month ago.

[lenny]

Joe, did you look at post #31? Lenny posted them when he made the mod a month ago.

Yes,:lol: I gave him links to hear when he first got the P1 hull on 3/22/12 to make it easy for him,
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?33028-Bought-a-Ekos-P1-hull

I do not think he sees or reads to well.:noidea:

[Joe007]

Lenny I did not look though all the links, sorry did so tonite. I like how your boat handles with the off set rudder. I will be putting my boat together soon waiting on a stock out drive to get here. I am going to add some fiberglass to strengthen the hull. I bought some turn fins off of ebay.

[tlandauer]

:rofl: Hi Lenny, how is everything? I got so hopelessly side tracked with my Pursuit which has a stubborn water problem coming up the stuffing tube. I am just about to give up today since I tried every imaginary ways, it's jinxed like there is a pump sucking water up. I miss my P1!

[lenny]

:rofl: Hi Lenny, how is everything? I got so hopelessly side tracked with my Pursuit which has a stubborn water problem coming up the stuffing tube. I am just about to give up today since I tried every imaginary ways, it's jinxed like there is a pump sucking water up. I miss my P1!
It could be better, But it could be worse.:tiphat:
The Pursuit you have, Was that Blackjacks ?
Love my p1, But still need to work on a stronger hatch and better seal for it.

[tlandauer]

Yes, I got it from him, at first it was running bone dry, no problem after I put a silicone fuel tube, but then I needed to use Kintec flex cable, and the problem started. It has a 2.25 inch shaft, standard I was told, since the boat has a stinger. Original shaft was shorter and was told it was an AQ product. Had to change since it was no longer holding up. Anyway, I put all kinds of tubing to seal it but water still comes in. The boat runs well, I used m545 prop and I get 47mph. Leo 4082, 2200 Kv, Seaking 180 a ESC, 4s2p . Temp is all good. I suppose I could run the boat a bit drier still, but now it is very stable and doesn't mind chops. I guess it was a good learning experience as I learned to adjust tirm tabs and stinger angles. I am reluctant to post anything because it is so silly.
P1 is really a pleasure, will run again when time permits.

[tlandauer]

Well, I decided to ask in the FE Questions sections anyway, what the heck...

[Joe007]

Hi Lenny I am getting ready to mount my turn fins on my Kos, how much of an angle do I need of them and how much of the fin goes into the water? The fins are 67mm in length. I bought the carbon fiber one's. Also I just bought the speedmaster stinger from Steve I will be getting it next week. I should have neve bought the stock stinger for it. But you learn by your mistakes ( I think).
Joe

[lenny]

You want the turn fin angle to match the hull bottom at the transom,
And ideally have it touch the water only in a turn for less drag in the straights.
Hears some pictures of mine.
7683276833768347683576836

And a link on info bad and good.http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?18594-Turn-fins-installed-(pics)&p=245182#post245182

[lenny]

Ok,:tiphat:
I have done some more testing,
With the modding of the inside setup,
The boat is very stable in the chop at high and low speeds.
Also I move the timing to 26.25*and temps went down and speed went up.
On a 3s I was getting 28 to 30mph, Now on same pack 35mph.
Not sure if run times are any better yet,
I will be testing 4s again and see what run time and speeds are next.:beerchug:

[tlandauer]

:tiphat: Lenny, I forgot, are you still running with the stock out-runner? If so this is great, I also had temp issue, guess we talked about it. Eagerly wating for your 4s results.
Cheers!

[lenny]

Yes, Still stock motor.:tongue_smilie:
And I got to run it in the big lake yesterday,
With a 1970 jet bout with a 454 big block for lot of chop and some tubing and knee boarding,
First time for me on a knee boarding and had a blast.:sinking-guy:

[tlandauer]

Sounds like you had alot of fun.
had to work, orchestras have no concept about holidays!:(

[lenny]

More money for more boat and stuff,:lol:
Yes, But I am feeling it to day.
When I got to the lake it was almost glass for 1/2 hour,
Then the jet boat rolled in and one jet ski and some hooter, Now were having fun.:drool:

[Joe007]

78909Lenny here is a picture of my boat. I just made the extension block of my rudder arm to extend the rudder back because of the longer stinger. The extension I made out of wood. Will show a picture of it mounted in the next couple of days. I am painting and clear coating it. Sent my props out fo sharpening and balancing to dasboata a member here on OSE.

[lenny]

I would not use the extension,:tiphat:
If you leave the rudder closer to the transom it will be out of the prop thrust cone.
And give more speed and more control of turns,
Plus If it back to far you have more torque on the transom bolts and hardware.
That could rip the transom out, Witch would not be good.:sinking-guy:
Look at it as a breaker bar for lug nut,
The longer the bar the more torque you have to break the nut loose.

The one you saw in past post did not work good,
But look cool.
That was Member Jesse J P1 kos mod.
Link,http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?20362-FS-ARTR-KOS-P1-mono-highly-modified
I talked to him about that mod later.

[Joe007]

Lenny thanks for the info. I put the rudder arm on with out the extension I made. Will put some picture up tomorrow.
Joe