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Gary
11-26-2011, 07:52 PM
My PT 45 just ate another motor!!! This is the 3rd 1527.5y in 1.5 years. They just melt down and smoke and every time I send it back they tell me its from excessive vibration on the three wires coming out of the motor. I wire tied each wire down to a wood support so they could not move anywhere but again today ....poooof!! Temperatures NEVER pass 100-110 on the motor or controller. Batteries are 65-130c 5,000mah Thunder Powers, ESC is a Hydra 240HV, boat comes in at 13lb exactly, prop is x648 cut down. I spin it to around 42,000- 43,000 ...well below what Neu tells me is safe. I make no more than 3-4 back to back SAW runs. I know there is a big amp draw but again Neu says it would be ok. Any ideas. This is costing to much for a top of the line motor way to often.

chris
11-26-2011, 08:12 PM
Double shrink on wires and supporting back of motor.

m4a1usr
11-26-2011, 08:20 PM
Since your saying the wires are held down at the rear the obvious question is what motor mount are you using? Is it supported front and back? I know alot of folks only use a front angle bracket and leave the back up in the air. Got a pic?

The other source of vibration, even with a mount that has both the front and rear support, that may be the culprit is how stiff is the floor? I see folks glueing down one of those floor mount designs and leave the floor still thin. That can allow the motor to see movement.

John

Gary
11-26-2011, 08:59 PM
Motor is bolted front and rear. Entire assembly is mounted on seperate flooring and everything is fiberglassed down. Nothing is moving anywhere. I really dont see a vibration causing this. This hull is big time reinforced to hold everything in place in the event of a blow over and thats why it comes in at 13lbs.

Rumdog
11-26-2011, 09:26 PM
How many SAW runs are you getting per motor? Even if the rpm isn't beyond motor specs, amperage may be.

RaceMechaniX
11-26-2011, 09:31 PM
Gary,

Is the wood block helping or perhaps hurting? The 240HV has twin sets of 10AWG wire running to the motor which are heavy. Perhaps the vibration/jouncing of the boat is causing the wires to excessively stress the motor leads.

I have double shrinked the wire in some cases and in others I have seen people using plastic bushings between the motor endbell and leads when space allows. However the 0.5Y has pretty large leads which makes additional insulation difficult.

A pic of the set-up would help diagnosis. And unfortunately, if you send that motor back in for service chances are you will get a silicone lead version.

BTW, John I recieved the 1520 today. Thanks,

Tyler

JT13031
11-26-2011, 10:11 PM
A 1527 is a big motor but a 13lb boat is also a big boat and thats a lot of rpms under that load and that's going to equal a big amp draw!

Make-a-Wake
11-26-2011, 10:33 PM
You are pulling some major amps.............."Temperatures NEVER pass 100-110 on the motor or controller"................but what are the wire temps..........are you literally melting them............????

Steven Vaccaro
11-26-2011, 10:46 PM
My PT 45 just ate another motor!!! This is the 3rd 1527.5y in 1.5 years. They just melt down and smoke and every time I send it back they tell me its from excessive vibration on the three wires coming out of the motor. I wire tied each wire down to a wood support so they could not move anywhere but again today ....poooof!! Temperatures NEVER pass 100-110 on the motor or controller. Batteries are 65-130c 5,000mah Thunder Powers, ESC is a Hydra 240HV, boat comes in at 13lb exactly, prop is x648 cut down. I spin it to around 42,000- 43,000 ...well below what Neu tells me is safe. I make no more than 3-4 back to back SAW runs. I know there is a big amp draw but again Neu says it would be ok. Any ideas. This is costing to much for a top of the line motor way to often.

Gary can I ask what number of cells you are running and the top speed?

m4a1usr
11-27-2011, 02:38 AM
John I recieved the 1520 today. Thanks,

Tyler

Your welcome Tyler and thank you!

John

detox
11-27-2011, 06:13 AM
Does it burn up on saw passes only. I believe you stated your voltage was 18.5 volts. How did it do using 14.8 volts?

I will quote you from an earlier post
"Mine loaded comes in around 12.5 lbs unfortunatly but has a consistent top speed of 87-89mph on 18.5 volts and a best top speed as of today of 73 mph on 14.8 batteries. Very stable hull when its dialed in and took me a year to get there but well worth it".

Gary
11-27-2011, 10:28 AM
Wires are triple insulated coming out of motor , not all the way in though,and come in hotter than the motor and controller but never anything melting. Fluid at one point estimated amp draw over 300 going by some of his boats. Steve, cells are Thunder Power . I run two 65-130c 5,000 packs in parallel with consistant top speeds of 93-94 at this time.Voltage drops are around 1.5 -- 2.0 volts at top speed. Rumdog about 40 passes but this time less on this motor.Detox I only ran 14.8 volts just to see what it would do so I really only run 18.5 all the time. Again, talking with Steve Neu he did not say that I would have a problem and even ended up with the 2,500kv from stepping up from the 2,300kv so this problem goes way back. At this point I would say the motor can not handle it. Its funny though because I could not keep a controller in any SAw boat and now my HV 240 is over 2 years old with countless passes , crashes and drownings on it and she still ticks like a timex LOL.

properchopper
11-27-2011, 10:45 AM
I also have had two 1515 1Y's go bad (one burned to a crisp) ; both in reasonably mild 4S setups. I recently aquired another one with the silicone wire update. BUT one of the the darn silicone wires had a split in the silicone insulation (exposing the bare wire inside) right where it entered the endbell. I applied some liquid epoxy insulation on the bare wire, and then siliconed the heck out of the wire/endbell junction in several applications. Looks crappy, but It's survived one racing season so far.


64746


The second one that I got back from Neu after a rebuild has the silicone wire as well (with some clear shrink over the wire as it pases through the endbell) and when I put it in use I'll do the silicone thing to it just for safety's sake.


64747

It would be nice if at some point the Neu motors would have a strain relief like the Castle/Neu motors - maybe designed to be more cooling jacket friendly.

64748

chris
11-27-2011, 11:22 AM
By the way 2220/0.5 no fan could be next choice for your setup

LarrysDrifter
11-27-2011, 11:35 AM
Why is Neu using silicone wire now, anyway?

Alfa Spirit
11-27-2011, 12:11 PM
NEU Motors were and are silicone wires equipped but now they are black.
Gary, if you had vibrations in the boat you could listen that something was wrong.

m4a1usr
11-27-2011, 01:45 PM
Why is Neu using silicone wire now, anyway?

Neu was having problems with wire strands breaking inside the can on each lead and they were seeing premature motor failures. In an effort to repair the issue Neu Motors decided to use more flexible wires. Prior built motors had the 3 leads as extensions right off the windings. No splices or joints like most other manfacturers. Now they terminate the winding leads inside the can and add the silicone wire extensions.

But in doing so, they added a butt splice. Always an issue on any motor as it can have connectivity problems and since its usually a dissimilar metal, it changes (relative) either electrically or physicaly as heat (amps) increases.

John

Gary
11-27-2011, 02:09 PM
I wonder if that is my problem or i am just overloading {ovecourse} the motor.

m4a1usr
11-27-2011, 04:12 PM
I wonder if that is my problem or i am just overloading {ovecourse} the motor.

I cant see Neu just not reasearching the wire mod. Since I have not spoke to a Neu Engineer to confirm, I would err on the side of them doing their home work and having done it right. Like with a spot welder during the crimp process. Or maybe they dont even use a crimp/butt splice. I hope I didnt alude to Neu motors having a poor manufacturing process. I was just stating what I have seen on other motors I have inspected internally when changing out bearings.

John

Gary
11-28-2011, 04:39 PM
Well its off through snail mail back to NEU. I will just wait and see what they have to say this time. I will ask about the wires when they call aswell. Hope they can warranty it.

LiPo Power
11-28-2011, 05:28 PM
They will for a small cost of arround $50.00 if i remember right.
I had the same problem with 1521 1.5D and also lost couple of high amp esc'c....
They told me the same: vibration....:doh:
IMO wires coming out via the back plate holes should be isolated in high temp silicone holders....




Well its off through snail mail back to NEU. I will just wait and see what they have to say this time. I will ask about the wires when they call aswell. Hope they can warranty it.

JT13031
11-28-2011, 05:55 PM
The wires on my 1515 2.5D have silicone grommets around them. Worst case if it doesnt have them take the motor apart and drill the holes bigger so you can add some

Gary
12-25-2011, 09:46 AM
Well the motor is at NEU's and should be back in Jan. I had an in depth conversation with Steve on my issue and he is going to cover it cost wise. An attempt will be made to secure the wires coming out of the bell and he will change around the winding and rotor assenbly for a little more rpm/speed...I hope. I will update the post when motor returns and hopefully there will be no ice on the lakes.