Fixing the BJ26 Handling Issues

[PropNutt43]

The main purpose of this thread is to help owners of the BJ26 deal with the poor handling the boat has out of the box and to provide a thread where everyone can post what mods they have done to improve their boats handling. I will now list and discuss what I have learned here on the forums and done to make my boat handle much better.

First, the problems with the stock setup:

The turn fins are set up like on a mono hull and cause the boat to list or roll over when turning.

The batteries and brushless esc are too high off the bottom of the hull which adds to the listing by making the boat too top heavy.

The steerable drive system actually accentuates the listing by pushing the boat over on it's side when attempting to turn sharply resulting in flipping the boat over.


Fixing the stock setup:

The turn fins:

I have tried the BJ26 both with the fins on in the stock position and with the fins off the boat. With them off, the boat turned better but felt too loose on the water and it still flipped over when making high speed turns and very low speed turns. The following mod has made the most positive affect on the handling of my boat out of all the mods I’ve made.

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The turn fins on outboard tunnel hulls, hydros and riggers are all angled to help suck down the inside sponson to keep the boat planted in the turns. The BJ26 turn fins need to be angled inward at the bottom to keep the boat from listing and keep it planted. As you can see in the pictures I have angled the fins to match the lower part of the outside of the hull. I have also raised the fins using the upper mounting hole for the lower mounting point and then leaning the fin over to get the right angle. This leaves about ¾ to 1 inch of the fin below the bottom of the hull. This has worked great on my boat but you may need more angle depending on your setup especially if you are using the stock drive. Note it is important to shorten the amount of fin that’s in the water or the boat will shimmy in the turns on it's fins. Also you will need to move the center of gravity about 1 inch further back in the boat to get the full benefits of this mod.

[PropNutt43]

Lowering the batteries and esc and changing the center of gravity:

I have removed the battery trays and radio box to reposition the batteries and brushless esc as close to the bottom of the hull as possible. This helps reduce the top heaviness of the boat and improves its handling.

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I used some thin Styrofoam and Velcro to do this. As you can see the batteries and esc have been moved to change the center of gravity further back in the hull. The batteries are about 3 inches back from the stock position. This has moved the CG back about an inch from the original location. From the back of the boat the CG is 6.75 inches.

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Original location ... 1 inch back

[PropNutt43]

Steerable drive system:


I have replaced the stock drive system with Fullers Catamaran Hardware
This drive works excellent especially if you want the BJ26 to turn well both left and right. I have run this setup with the stock motor and brushless esc with the stock prop also with an octura X642 and X442 both detounged. So far I like the performance of the X442 best. Depending on which prop you use you will have to adjust the height and angle differently.

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If you are going to stick with the stock drive system after doing these mods please post your performance results. It would be interesting to know how well they work with that setup.

Please remember all these mod locations and positions are starting points. You will need to fine tune them for your boat's setup.

[jaybirdtke]

Great job. I am interested in trying these mods.
1. Can you explain how you cut and upgraded the flex cable tube and what parts you used?
2. Did the fullers hardware come with the secondary water pickup? I noticed the turn fin has one built in. It seems like the turn fin pickup might cause unnecessary drag if not used.
3. Looking at the rear of your boat there is a black knob or something just to the left of where the water pickup tube enters the hull. What is this knob?

[PropNutt43]

#1:
The Fullers cat hardware can be used with the stock stuffing box tube with no mods, but you need to ask for a .150 flex shaft and liner with 3/16 stub shaft in the notes when you order it. You will also need to cut the flex shaft to the right length and solder the end so it won't fray. This cat hardware comes with almost everything needed, but you will have to make a longer steering rod to reach the rudder. The mounting bolt pattern is longer top to bottom but the width is the same so you will need to drill two new mounting holes in the hull. I used the top two holes and made two new holes for the bottom.

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/

The only reason my stuffing box tube looks different is because I removed it so I could make it flush with the bottom ride surface of the hull. This allows for better prop angle adjustments and causes less drag in the water.

#2:
I made the water pickup from copper tube and copper strip soldered together. I just prefer the extra flow pressure from the prop to keep things cooler. Have had no drag problems from rudder the way it is.

#3:
The knob is a push-pull remote switch for the boats esc. It makes it a little easier to turn it on – off after the hatch is taped down.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=73

[PropNutt43]

Had a little more time to run the BJ26 on the weekend. Did some more experimenting with the turn fins and center of gravity. Started by adding more inward angle to the fins. This had the negative affect of lifting the outside sponson too much causing the boat to be unstable when making hard turns at high speed. Don’t recommend it .Went back to my original angle of matching the the fins to the lower portion of the side of the boat and everything was fine. Next started trimming the fins down a ¼ inch at a time. The shorter they got the more stable it turned. They now measure just under ½ inch below the bottom of the ride surface. The CG has been moved back another ¼ inch it’s now 6.5 inches from the back of the hull. Was achieved by moving the batteries an additional inch back which is 4 inches back from stock location. After these adjustments the boat is handling better and has picked up some speed due to less drag from the shorter fins and getting more air under it from moving the CG back. All in all it was a good weekend but I won’t be completely happy till I get this thing to turn like is on rails.

[ETOWNE]

The knob is a push-pull remote switch for the boats esc. It makes it a little easier to turn it on – off after the hatch is taped down.



That's what I thought that was and I need to do the same thing on mine.Did you just modify the stock switch ?

[jaybirdtke]

I'm pretty sure it is this one. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-203
Anyway, my Fullers hardware is on order along with an x642 prop sharpened & balanced and 2 sets of (2) 2s 4800mah lipos. This is becoming quite expensive. Once these accessories arrive I should be around $900.00.
Half on batteries, the charger and charger accessories, the other half for the boat.

$285.00 - Blackjack Brushless
$260.00 - (4) 7.4V 4800mAh Lipos
$150.00 - Hyperion EOS0606i Charger
$100.00 - Fullers Hardware
$ 35.00 - Octura x642 Sharpened & Balanced
$ 25.00 - Lipo Sack
$ 20.00 - BL ESC Programming Module
$ 20.00 - y-harness w/ balancer cables homemade
$ 4.00 - Antenna

[PropNutt43]

Yes, that is the exact same one. You do not need to modifiy the switch, it just bolts on. Every hobby shop I've ever been to has them or you could order it.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-203


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[Larry52]

Thanks for the great thread.

Could you describe in detail how you replaced the stuffing tube and show some pictures of your installation.

Thanks

Regards
Larry

[ETOWNE]

[/QUOTE]

$285.00 - Blackjack Brushless
$260.00 - (4) 7.4V 4800mAh Lipos
$150.00 - Hyperion EOS0606i Charger
$100.00 - Fullers Hardware
$ 35.00 - Octura x642 Sharpened & Balanced
$ 25.00 - Lipo Sack
$ 20.00 - BL ESC Programming Module
$ 20.00 - y-harness w/ balancer cables homemade
$ 4.00 - Antenna[/QUOTE]
Dude,I ry to not think about it. lol:confused2:

[PropNutt43]

Relocation of Stuffing Box Tube:

Removing Tube:

It is pretty easy to do. First use an exacto knife to cut along the tube under the boat and inside the boat to break it free at the back of the hull. Make sure not to remove too much under the tube and inside the hull so it will be easier to reinstall. Once it's broke loose at the back just twist it to break it free at the front mounting point. No cutting necessary there which makes it easier to reinstall it later. Once everything is loose just twist it back and forth and pull it out the back of the hull.

Refitting Tube:

Scrape the tube off and sand to remove excess paint and fiberglass. Then file and sand the piece that the tube mounts to at the bottom of the hull till the stuffing box tube fits even with the bottom of the hull. The tube will need to be fit a little further to the front of the boat to get it at the right height. Doing this will keep it lined up with the motor at the right angle so it won’t bind. Make sure it fits flat on mounting surface with no gaps. After fitting it remove from hull and cut about ¼ inch or so off the front end so it won't hit the motor.

Reinstalling Tube:

When you’ve got the tube fit where you like, reinstall it with the plastic liner inserted and with the flex shaft connected to motor. Make sure everything fits right and there is no binding or misalignment with the motor. When it's ready use some CA to tack it in place. After it dries use 30 minute epoxy to finish the job and make it water tight. At the front mounting point I only used CA because it still fit tight.

Cleanup and Paint:

When the epoxy is dry sand and paint. I know mine looks a little ruff under the hull but I was in a hurry to get it back in the water. Will clean it up a little better later.


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[PropNutt43]

$285.00 - Blackjack Brushless
$260.00 - (4) 7.4V 4800mAh Lipos
$150.00 - Hyperion EOS0606i Charger
$100.00 - Fullers Hardware
$ 35.00 - Octura x642 Sharpened & Balanced
$ 25.00 - Lipo Sack
$ 20.00 - BL ESC Programming Module
$ 20.00 - y-harness w/ balancer cables homemade
$ 4.00 - Antenna


[/quote] Dude,I ry to not think about it. lol:confused2: [/quote]


I know this all adds up to a lot of money and even I'm on a budget. I got my boat last year in November right as winter was starting to hit hard. Didn't have much time to run it cause of the ice and snow. What I'm getting at is I didn't do all these mods at once. This is an ongoing project, just taking it a little at a time. That way it’s not so hard on the wallet and by doing it this way I have more appreciation for the benefits of each mod. Hope you don’t give up on this boat because it’s got a lot of potential.

[jaybirdtke]

My Fullers hardware arrived along with the x642 prop. I got it all installed and there is noticable improvement to the turning ability. I will be adding a different type of water pickup, as you did, because I would prefer having water flow while making lefts as well as right turns. I'm still waiting on my lipos.
I plan on running it again with the new hardware and stock prop as a comparison to make sure I didn't loose any speed with this hardware.
What diameter is the copper stuffing tube that you used? or did you reuse the original stuffing tube?
What diameter is the plastic tube that's inside the copper tube? Did you reuse the plastic tube that came with the flex cable?
Thanks again.

[PropNutt43]

The stuffing box tube is the stock one that comes on the boat. I just removed it cleaned it up and relocated it. The whole secret is to fit it at the bottom so you can slide it forward and keep the same angle the tube exits the bottom of the hull. By sliding it forward it will automatically bring it up to where you want and keeps the flex shaft from binding at the motor. You shouldn't have to add much bend to the tube if any at all when you fit it this way. The plastic liner is the one that came with the Fullers Cat Hardware. You will have to cut it to fit.

One other thing I should mention before you do this mod. It will affect the way the boat handles. The little bit of the tube dragging thru the water in the stock position helps the boat track a little straighter. After moving it the boat will also be a little looser in the turns but not much. I had to put a little more prop in the water and move the CG back to counter this.

[PropNutt43]

Finally got around to cleaning up the stuffing box tube at the bottom of the boat. Here's what it should look like after cleanup and when it's done.

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Got another cold front moving in probably won't get to run much this weekend. In the 30s right now and expected to drop with some rain/snow? Crazy Midwest weather. Guess I'll just work on the boat some more.

[caecage]

On one of the picture of the inside of the boat a few posts back showing the on off switch it looks like you coated the entire interrior of the boat with something. If so why and what did you use to do it.
Thanks

[PropNutt43]

I believe you mean this pic.

4602

What you see is 30 minute epoxy coating the transom at the rear of the boat. I have drilled more than a few holes in the transom and had too removed some of the wood that doubled up the thickness where the turn fins were originally mounted.

Reason for coating:

Wanted to waterproof the areas that were no longer coated in fiber glass. Also to strengthen around the edges and areas where the turn fins and drive hardware are mounted. You can see it better in this pic.

4603

[jaybirdtke]

I now have 5 runs on the new hardware and it is awesome with the x642 prop and (2) 2s 4800mah lipos. The only mods that I didn't do is the stuffing box tube relocation, I left the original battery box locations and I haven't installed the external battery switch. I think I'm getting some water in the hull from the inside of the stuffing box tube where the flex cable exits to attach to the motor. I've sealed the antenna hole and I tape the hatch before every run.
Aside from keeping the flex cable well greased how can I reduce water from entering here. It looks like you have some fuel tubing on the inside of the stuffing box tube. Is that what it is?

[dendrobate]

What tape is best used for sealing the lid , any pics .Thanks

[PropNutt43]

Aside from keeping the flex cable well greased how can I reduce water from entering here. It looks like you have some fuel tubing on the inside of the stuffing box tube. Is that what it is?

Yes, I used some 1/8 inch (3mm) silicone fuel tubing. It works great keeps the water out completely. only want about 1/8 " to rub against flex shaft and make sure a little grease gets in it to reduce friction.

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[jaybirdtke]

Renfrew Hockey Tape. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=79

[PropNutt43]

What tape is best used for sealing the lid , any pics .Thanks

This hatch tape from Fullers works great. It's at the bottom of the page.

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm

[jaybirdtke]

I need to replace my flex coupler. Horizon has it for $20.89. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB3308
I searched Offshoreelectrics but couldn't find one that would fit. Can someone insert a link to a coupler from Offshore that will work?
-----------------------

Steve was nice enough to inform me that I would need the octura 5mm to .150 flex hex. Thanks Steve.

[PropNutt43]

The one you need is on this page but looks to be out of stock right now. Octura makes Two couplers from 5mm to .150 cable. You want the short version (24mm) or you will have problems with the fit.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=68

Fullers site has them too but make sure it's the short version before you buy. I would call to make sure.

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm

[bizzle]

hi everyone. i just recently picked up a blackjack and it had two autobailers installed aswell as a CF45 prop and it was almost un driveable. it would torque twist and almost flip it self at full throttle on a straight line turning was near impossible at any speed. i removed the bailers and angled the fins which helped alot. i took 'er out today along with my SV and DAMN! what a quick boat! in the straights it would rip past my SV with a CF48, i took great care in the turns but did flip her when i came to a stop then attempted to turn from a dead stop..hit the throttle about 1/3 and over she went faster then i knew what had happened.

im going to lower the batteries tonight but can anyone tell me which angle the set the drive to to possible help? up or down?

[PropNutt43]

Have a look at this thread, it should help you out with prop angle and drive set up.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=3105

Definitely lower the batteries and put the esc at the bottom of the hull too, if it isn’t already there. Every little bit helps.

Sounds like you bought a modified version of the boat. Some pictures and more info would help.

[bizzle]

no, the only mods were the auto bailers that had about a 1/4" difference in height where they were drilled into the transom, a spektrum hi torque servo and a 3" pink antenna tube. Then there was the mods UPS put into the hull in shipping...separated the front end halves, destroyed the stock prop and put a nice crack on the top of the hull. pics would be nice huh! i cant find the damn charger for the camera. ill look for it today. i gotta take pics to put in a claim w/ UPS aswell

[PropNutt43]

Sorry to hear about the damage from shipping. Hope you get a new boat out of UPS or at least a hull and prop.

I thought the boat might be modified because of the way you said it was torque twisting on a strait line. Was thinking maybe too much motor.

But if it's all stock the prop maybe angled up too much at the back, or too high above the ride surface which would also explain the boat wanting to blow over.

Try straitening the prop angle out first and if that doesn't fix it lower the drive a 1/16 inch at a time till you get the result you want. The boat might lose a little speed but should become a lot more stable.

As far as steering with the stock drive hardware, my boat didn’t turn well at very low speeds or high speed. It liked it best some where in the middle. Also turning the duel rate down on the radio transmitter helped by not allowing the boat to turn too sharp.

[bizzle]

ok, update on my situation.
I took the BJ out this AM.
tried adjusting the trim angle with negative results on moving it down. for every slight angle adjustment i also tried moving the batteries fore and aft. So far it ran best with no turn fins prop angled all the way up and batts about 3.5'' back from stock. This improved turning ability but she still lists to one side and with 3/4 to full throttle she just starts turning leaning harder and harder. Im thinking maybe the CF45 prop might have somthing to do with it, all the props in your guys pics have a much deeper pitch the blades are more horizontal.?

when i bought this boat i envisioned dual counter rotating outdrives. would that fix the twisting problem do you think? Has anyone else had this or similar problems with their BJ26?

[jaybirdtke]

Yes, I used some 1/8 inch (3mm) silicone fuel tubing. It works great keeps the water out completely. only want about 1/8 " to rub against flex shaft and make sure a little grease gets in it to reduce friction.

4625

I am still getting an unacceptable amount of water through the stuffing box tube after upgrading to the Fullers Hardware/ Octura 642 prop/ and (2) 2s 4800mAh lipos. I tried making a clear plastic shroud that covered the flex coupler area like a roof from battery box to battery box and from the motor to the electronics tray. This confirmed that the water is coming from the stuffing box tube.
Is 1/8 inch (3mm) standard size fuel tubing? I tried a piece of fuel tubing similar to what comes with the boat for the cooling system and it just tore. Would you recommend adding some CA to where the plastic stuffing box tube exits the copper stuffing box tube on the inside and or outside of the boat or anywhere else? Any other recommendations are appreciated.

[PropNutt43]

Is 1/8 inch (3mm) standard size fuel tubing? I tried a piece of fuel tubing similar to what comes with the boat for the cooling system and it just tore. Would you recommend adding some CA to where the plastic stuffing box tube exits the copper stuffing box tube on the inside and or outside of the boat or anywhere else? Any other recommendations are appreciated.

The stuff I used is made by Great Planes it's 1/8 inch (3mm) inside diameter. This is their large silicone fuel tubing for glow fuel.
It will fit without tearing if you take a pair of needle nose pliers insert into one end and stretch it out a little first. Then use a little grease and work it on to the plastic liner and then over the brass tube. It will be tight but that’s how I got it to fit.

As far as using CA on the liner, I wouldn't recommend it. At some point you will need to remove it for replacement when it wears out. Using grease and the fuel tube will completely eliminate any water from getting in through the stuffing box tube. It has on my boat.

[Eyekandyboats]

the main problem is the hull. Not all the band aid solutions.

[Wakesurfer]

I've got a Skater II and a new prop ordered. I contacted TLR about ordering a spare strut for the Skater so I can try to mod it with a brass bushing. Wife's cousin has an automotive machine shop (almost all custom race motor builds) so I'll see if they can help me with the mod. I'm not sure, but I think TLR wants to send me a strut instead of me buying one. I call that good tech support and customer service. I don't know if anyone has already tried this, but I'll try to post the results of the mod. If it's been done and tanks, let me know please.

[MORIDE]

Do you think in stock BJ (has flex cable and X642) that the angling of the turns fins will have a significant effect on handling or/and speed? Also, PropNutt43, where do you run in OFallon? I am there also.

[Apples1]

I will let you know after sunday running, i am running stock setup with 642 and turned in fins!

[MORIDE]

I will be running this weekend also, last Sunday ran it in way to rough water and completely flipped (MUST remember to take the time to completely tape the hatch) it was floating with just a couple of inches of the front out of the water, completely under almost. I thought I was in for some replacement electrics, but let it dry out overnight and all is working fine. I will NEVER run without the hatch taped again! It happens so fast!

[PropNutt43]

Do you think in stock BJ (has flex cable and X642) that the angling of the turns fins will have a significant effect on handling or/and speed? Also, PropNutt43, where do you run in OFallon? I am there also.

Sorry I don't know how it will run with the stock drive and the turn fins angled. I never ran mine that way. I didn't angle the fins till after putting the Fullers Cat Hardware on.

I'm interested in hearing how it works out. Would think it should improve the handling but won't eliminate all the problems.

I'll PM you as to where I run my boat. Just want to keep this tread on subject.

[Apples1]

RUBBISH,

Absolute rubbish....... The thing wouldnt run in a staight line, and round a corner the BJ26 "crabbed" and when you powered around a corner it would lift a sponson in both directions, it just ran like a dog...

After a rather embarrising display at my new "nitro" boat club, i re straighted the fins and had a decent crack , after the laughter from the nitro boys died down, there was general shock on their faces, when lap after lap about 10 or so i was passing some of the bigger gas and nitro boats

Another win for the Electric boys.....

[MORIDE]

So are you saying that angling the fins on a stock drive setup is not a good way to go and the straight fins (factory setting) are superior?

[Apples1]

thats it Moride, in my opinion..

[TRUNKMUNKY]

Here's mine with no turn fins,speedmaster hardware,ammo2300,150 flex,and hull mod I can now turn at full speed most of the time..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY forgot to mention this boat also has a sv27 esc and 2 little zippy k 4300 7.4 lipo packs,and runs very cool.Will tweak the hull some to smooth out the handling even more,and should be getting a bit longer rudder to help...the 5.25 really works super on my mean machine compared to the smaller speedmaster and will most certainly help this boat after some trimming.

[Joe007]

Propnut, you used the stock stuffing tube, why not make one a bit longer so that more of the flex shaft is more stable? Just wondering I have followed your build up to a tee except I have make my own stuffing tube and make it about 1/2 inch longer toward the rudder... Will this have any effect on running it that way?
Joe007

[PropNutt43]

I thought about making a new stuffing tube to run all the way to the strut to help keep water from getting into the boat. I decided against it when the problem went away after adding some silicone fuel line as a seal at the motor end of the stuffing tube.

Besides, I like the flexibility of the Teflon tube when it comes to adjusting the height and angle of the strut.

I don't see any problem with extending the stuffing tube another 1/2 inch, shouldn't effect performance but you won't know for sure till you run it.

[PropNutt43]

Here's mine with no turn fins,speedmaster hardware,ammo2300,150 flex,and hull mod I can now turn at full speed most of the time..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY forgot to mention this boat also has a sv27 esc and 2 little zippy k 4300 7.4 lipo packs,and runs very cool.Will tweak the hull some to smooth out the handling even more,and should be getting a bit longer rudder to help...the 5.25 really works super on my mean machine compared to the smaller speedmaster and will most certainly help this boat after some trimming.



TRUNKMUNKY,

Would like to know what hull mods you have made, how to do them, pictures if possible. Your boat definitely turns great! Awesome video too! Please enlighten us.

Also, are these the batteries you are running? And is this where you got them?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6656

Been dying to get some lipos and these look very affordable. The weight loss has got to help the handling.

[Joe007]

Propnutt, I agree with you that you need some flex for adjusting the prop ange.. Cut my stuffing tube just at stern... I have about 1 1/2 inch of flex tubing to make a adjustment.... Will post some pictures in the near future... Waiting for a new flex shaft I had a brain fart this morning and cut the shaft same as the stock one....
Joe007

[Apples1]

Those batts look a little dodgey propnut,anyhing with the word zippy in it make me shudder. they probabley need to 25c continues amp draw not 20, and also the cheaper the internal cells are the more likely they are to go "puff" and "boom",
My best advice is get the best you can afford, if that is your budget then go for it, they will still be ok, but you may have to replace them more frequently.

I have just made the step to lipo in the last 2 weeks, you wont regret it.
i got mine at Rclipos.com

[TRUNKMUNKY]

TRUNKMUNKY,

Would like to know what hull mods you have made, how to do them, pictures if possible. Your boat definitely turns great! Awesome video too! Please enlighten us.

Also, are these the batteries you are running? And is this where you got them?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6656

Been dying to get some lipos and these look very affordable. The weight loss has got to help the handling.
For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results, About the lipo batts,yes,those came from united,and were a bargin for the money.so I thought I would try them and have to say they are very good packs compared to some of the higherdollar packs I have.Only 20c 30c burst output ,so not the most powerful but as the video shows,still good bang for the buck,no signs of puffing or swelling after 3 charges,but I balanced charged them every time to be safe.Any lipo pack can puff and swell if the boat setup is not right or are mishandled or not charged properly .This setup for my BJ runs faster than stock,handles way better and runs very cool.Any good 7.4 pack with this setup will work great.If your new to lipo power,buy the best you can afford, and a good balance charger.Just showing what this setup will do for the handling problem not endorsing any one's batts.

[Joe007]

apples1... Were you running the stock hardware on your cat or do you have aftermarket? Propnutt stated that he used Fuller's hardware... So we can all learn from one another..
Joe007

[ETOWNE]

For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results, About the lipo batts,yes,those came from united,and were a bargin for the money.so I thought I would try them and have to say they are very good packs compared to some of the higherdollar packs I have.Only 20c 30c burst output ,so not the most powerful but as the video shows,still good bang for the buck,no signs of puffing or swelling after 3 charges,but I balanced charged them every time to be safe.Any lipo pack can puff and swell if the boat setup is not right or are mishandled or not charged properly .This setup for my BJ runs faster than stock,handles way better and runs very cool.Any good 7.4 pack with this setup will work great.If your new to lipo power,buy the best you can afford, and a good balance charger.Just showing what this setup will do for the handling problem not endorsing any one's batts.

I looked around and I couldn't find anything. What prop are you using ?

[TRUNKMUNKY]

I looked around and I couldn't find anything. What prop are you using ? Not sure about the first part, of the question,but Im using the cen racing prop 42 mm.

[ETOWNE]

Not sure about the first part..............cen racing prop 42 mm. I looked at all your post, thanks.

[Apples1]

i was running stock setup, but am in the process of upgrading.

[PropNutt43]

Those batts look a little dodgey propnut,anyhing with the word zippy in it make me shudder. they probabley need to 25c continues amp draw not 20, and also the cheaper the internal cells are the more likely they are to go "puff" and "boom",
My best advice is get the best you can afford, if that is your budget then go for it, they will still be ok, but you may have to replace them more frequently.

I have just made the step to lipo in the last 2 weeks, you wont regret it.
i got mine at Rclipos.com

Well I took a chance and ordered a pair of these Zippy K 7.4 Lipo packs:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6656

Showed up about 4 business days later. I have to say I'm impressed about their fast service and the quality of these batteries.

I figured at 20c that’s 86 amps and 30c burst of 129 amps they should be fine. I'm still running the stock esc rated at 45 amp - 55 amp peak and stock motor rated about the same so they shouldn't even come close to maxing these batteries out.

Got one run in today after work with these and man what a difference! Had the esc motor timing set on high. This thing really zings now and the handling has improved greatly with the loss of about 3/4 lb. The best part is these batteries barely got luke warm.

Highly recommend going Lipo both for the speed and handling.

[Wakesurfer]

Made a few mods to my boat and gave it a run today. Probably should make one change and a time, but I went after it this time. Swapped the stock drive for the TLR Skater II. Had to trim about 3/16" off the shaft, and cut one of the stock screws. Blind nut was spinning. Turned the tracking fins to match the angle of the hull. Prop changed to Octura M435 3 blade. TLR balanced and speed bead finish. pulled the stock battery trays and expoxied in new ones. 3/16" balsa running from 1/4" back at the front of the tray to about an inch from the transom. Gives me a little room to adjust CG. I was able to bend the stuffing tube up about 3/16" which lined the shaft up perfect to the strut on the Skater. I set the MaxAmps 2s 8ks back 1 1/4" from stock. Water had very small ripple at the park. The new prop seems to cavitate on the hole shot. Had to feed the throttle in easy to get the boat to plane out. Once it settled on plane throttle response was great and it looked faster on the water. Still some list in the tighter turns, but much better than stock handling. Next I'd like to shorten the T fins a bit. The bad news: Rudder hinge pin came loose and went to the bottom of the lake. As soon as it dropped the boat made a 90 deg turn and flipped. A fisherman who seemed thrilled about getting to see a FE boat run tied on a heavy spinner bait and made the rescue cast. Another guy rigged for cat fish came from the other side of the lake to see if he could help too. Got it home and made a new hinge pin from an 1/8" bit and stole a grub screw from a truck pinion to replace the missing one. Put it all back together with blue Lock-tight this time. Next mods: shorten the fins, switch to the Hyda 120a with external BEC or Rx pack, hang the Novak HV6.5 ot the Fiegao 7xl, or maybe the Nue 1512 1Y. Might be tuff to find a cooler for the Neu ribbed can though. Need to make an adapter to parallel the new 3S 8k packs, or steal one from my 3905s for series. How fast will this thing go with a 2380kv motor on 6 cell? :flashfire: Need more prop too I suppose.

[MAXAMUS]

Hi all another newbie enters the blackjack world lol

well I'm just waiting on mine arriving should be here any day now Ive read all the pages and have found a lot of valuable information and made notes !!

so I'm going lipo from the start as i have lipo's from my RC aircraft although Ive had to buy 2s as i have 3s and 4s just now. So can i expect to take her out the box grease and tape her up and have a blast or not ???? which brings me on to a few questions lol

1
i have a mega motor 16/25/2 would this work as an upgrade possibly in the future ? spec Specification
Weight 111 g
No load current Io 1.1
Size 28x41,5 φ x L mm
No load 2650 RPM/V
Max. current 35 A
Number of cells 4 - 16
Max. diameter 28 mm
Diameter of shaft 3,2 mm
Max speed 55 000 revolution/min

2
with the stock set up can i change the prop ? and what should i get

3
how many cell (lipo) can the stock set up take IE can i use a pair of 3s


sorry for so many questions but the more info you get the better it helps you understand this little rocket i can see the ££ signs fluttering in front of me already with all the mods that will inevitably be required as i get more and more comfortable with it

Maxamus.............

[PropNutt43]

MAXAMUS

A pair of 2s packs will work fine with the stock setup until you can upgrade. Just make sure they are a minimum of 20c to 25c rated and at least 4000 mAh or they might puff or well you know. The loss in weight will definitely help the handling.

I wouldn't attempt using 2 3s packs because the esc is not rated for that high of voltage, I believe 21v is the max.

The motor you mentioned is actually smaller in diameter than the stock one and the shaft is not 5mm so it won't match up and probably won't have enough power.

And yes, you can use other props on the stock drive because it comes with a 3/16 shaft adapter. But you won't be able to go much larger than 42mm or it might hit. Suggest x642 or x442 from Octura.

Welcome aboard and enjoy!

[MAXAMUS]

propnutt
thanks for the lipo advice but could you not use 3s packs or indeed 4s packs if you were to wire in parallel as voltage would stay the same 11.1v and mah would increase but then weight would become an issue i'am on to a prop thanks but just got a phone call last night to say there is a 3 week waiting time and its on back order ! well will give me time to prepare and absorb information

[PropNutt43]

If you run the batteries in parallel they will work fine. 4s packs would be better because you might hit the low voltage cutoff too easy with the 3s packs, because the esc needs a minimum of 10v. Also you will lose a lot of speed with the lower voltage packs.

With the batteries parallel you probably won't lose any weight but should get much longer run times. For me the weight loss is the bigger advantage when running Lipos because it helps the boat handle so much better.

In a review on RC Universe there is some video footage of a completely stock BJ26 running 2s packs. Here's the link:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=970

[calcagno45]

PropNutt- Did you have a chance to run the packs more? Also what balancing tabs does it come with? HP/PQ?

[MAXAMUS]

yeah Ive already read that report also had some info from another source saying that some guy was running stock with 4s in parallel with speeds up to 50mph ?? could this be true ? getting back to my awaiting order issue seems iam awaiting a shipment from horizon to the UK approx 3 weeks :cursing: also a true mare trying to get hold of a octura x642 here in the UK everyone seems to be out of stock any ideas from across the pond with cheap shipping e-bay nothing seen on there either ..........have dubro SW on order though and where is there a direct link to the correct items for the fullers hop up inc all other bits

maxamus the sponge for info lol

[ETOWNE]

I have a question if anyone knows. I ordered Fuller's hardware last week. I sent the order in for the cat hardware. Ray, called and said the Hydro hardware is the one to use for turning right. This set-up came w/ 1 1/2" down strut that sits off of the transom like a Hydro setup.

1. Where should I mount the strut ? Right at the bottom of the boat ? Do I need to offset it a bit to make up for the prop ?

.The rudder is offset and is 1 1/2 inch from the center of the mount to the hinge. Rudder itself is 2 3/4" from the bottom of the rudder mount.The rudder looks like it will sit on top of the strut and allow (the strut)adjustment up. This way only allows 3/4" to 1" away from the prop. The rudder is about 3 inches away from the prop if I mount it to the side of the strut.

2. Which way of mounting the rudder is better ?

[PropNutt43]

PropNutt- Did you have a chance to run the packs more? Also what balancing tabs does it come with? HP/PQ?

Yes, I have run them 5 or 6 times now and they just keep getting better. Ran them with my x642 prop today timing set to high and again just got luke warm after non stop WOT run. The run times seem to be getting longer too. Here are the complete specs on the batteries:

Spec.
Capacity: 4300mAh
Config: 7.4v / 2 cell / 2S1P
Discharge: 20C Constant, 30C Bursts
Weight: 246g (entire pack. Not only combined cell weight)
Size: 145x45x18mm
Plug Style:JST-XH

[ETOWNE]

I have a question if anyone knows. I ordered Fuller's hardware last week...............
.
I called Fuller today. I mount the strut right at the bottom of the hull. Also, I put the rudder mount right above it. It's done.

[PropNutt43]

yeah Ive already read that report also had some info from another source saying that some guy was running stock with 4s in parallel with speeds up to 50mph ?? could this be true ?


If you are looking for all out speed read some of Obrien's threads. He is one of the few here to break 50mph with this boat.

Finally broke 50!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=2200

Finally tried Lipos
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=2345

As far as doing 50 with the stock setup I think it would be highly unlikely.

[Joe007]

Well finished modding my blackjack today...
I followed PropNutt43 directions and have added acouple of others things...
Thanks to PN43 for showing us how to make our boats handle better...
I will post some pictures of my BJ in acouple of days... Going to the lake tomorrow to test and tune...
Joe007

[MAXAMUS]

hi guys just been scouting about and seen this
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Aluminum-rudder-and-strut-for-electric-boat-catamaran_W0QQitemZ290233656861QQihZ019QQcategoryZ 34058QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

how would this do for the BJ ???

[PropNutt43]

Yeah, I've seen this too. It looks to be of fairly good quality everything has a nice finish and there are bushings in the strut. Would probably work ok on the BJ26 but you will have to deal with a couple things.

1st:
The flex shaft and stub shaft are 4mm so you would need an adapter for the stub shaft if you want to use 3/16" props. Might be able to use the one that comes on the stock BJ26 drive but I'm not sure of the inside diameter if it's 1/8" or 4mm.

2nd:
Because the flex shaft is 4mm you might need to change the coupler on the motor from .150 to 4mm if it won’t hold the flex shaft tight enough.

3rd:
The front of the strut looks like it comes farther forward than the back of the transom of the boat so you may need to cut the stuffing box tube back a little to make it fit right.

If you can live with all that it should work ok on this boat.

[MAXAMUS]

Well I've seen the light and iam gonna wait a while then go with the fullers cat hardware after all the reading I've done over the last week there are a few that are a no no for sure plus i like the look of your set up last i read you were still trimming out hows things now ? what sort of speeds are you reaching ant whats the spec of your lipo's ?

[PropNutt43]

I would like to clear something up, it was never my intension to prove that Fullers Offshore Catamaran Hardware is “The best hardware” I don’t believe any one set up is. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. You should choose what best fits your needs and goals.

For me, I want stability at top speed, meaning the boat won’t blow over backward easily. I want it to turn both left and right at any speed without flipping upside down and I want it to turn like it’s on rails. Breaking speed records isn’t one of my intensions for now because the main pond I run in is too small to be going 50+mph.

There is lot of good quality drive hardware out there. What I would like to see is more people stepping up and showing off (with pictures) what other setups they have gone with and (documenting with details) if they have accomplished what they wanted to. This way we can all learn more from each other and have more choices to go with. So please share your boat mods and accomplishments.

[PropNutt43]

Back to Maxamus questions. Yes, I’m still trimming out my boat and probably always will be because I’m continuously looking to get a little more out of it. It’s getting very close to what I’ve been looking to accomplish.

Since I started running Lipos I’ve played around with the turn fins some more. I’ve remounted them back in the original holes and slotted the bottom hole on each turn fin so the angle can be adjusted and tightened down. With Lipos the boat seems more stable with less angle on them than I had originally.

As far as what kind of speeds I’m running couldn’t tell you for sure don’t have a gps yet but it is on my list of things to get. If I had to guess I would say some where in the low 40mph range.

I am trying to get some decent video footage and will post it later. In the mean time here are some pictures of my boat at the pond in front of my subdivision.

5506 5507 5508

[MAXAMUS]

great photos
well iam still waiting on my BJ to arrive my other items have or are winging there way to me as i type lol

lipo programmer
switch mount
octura x642 b/s/p
2x 7.4v 6600mah lipo's
a predator z which will be my rescue boat
http://www.raidentech.com/1scprzrareco1.html
with a few mods using carbon rods and pool noodles

so all i need now is my BJ

do you know where the CofG is on the BJ and how crucial is it to be on in the running ?

[PropNutt43]

do you know where the CofG is on the BJ and how crucial is it to be on in the running ?

I never checked the CG with the stock drive. With the Fullers hardware on and NiMH batteries in stock location it is about 7.75 inches from back of transom forward, with Lipos 7.50 inches.

So far I’ve had the best results with the CG set at 6.50 to 6.75 inches for NiMHs and 6.75 inches for Lipos. NiMH location 3” to 4” back from stock, Lipos 2” back.

As far as the CG being crucial, it is very important in how the boat will run. The closer towards the transom you go the more speed you will get but the wider your turning radius will become. The boat will also tend to blow over backwards easier. The farther away from the transom the less speed you will get but turning will be tighter. Prop angle and depth will affect these things too.

[Joe007]

Pronutt, so you put your turn fins back to the stock location.. Does that mean you put the fins back in the stock alignment where they are almost straight up and down... Also so you are saying that you do not have the turn fins following the the angle of boat so that the boat will track better in turns as you stated before..
Joe007

[PropNutt43]

I put the turn fins back in the stock mounting holes which are strait up and down and also lower than where I had them before. I still have them angled in at the bottom but not as much as before. The turn fins are now adjustable because I used a small hobby file to slot the lower hole in the turn fins.

Here are some pics:

5609 5610 5611 5613

I am still playing with the angle of the turn fins and will be shortening them some. Length is back at 1" below ride surface right now.

Here is some video with this setup.


http://youtube.com/watch?v=Mqv1GBGQfKc (You Tube)

Sorry about the quality its avi. converted to their format.

Here is a link where you can download the same video but better quality.

http://www.savefile.com/files/1603610 (Download)

Hit the download button on the site page then click on download file now.

[Joe007]

Ok I understand what you are saying... Dang that BJ moves real good and the cornering looked real nice.... Can you get a zoom on your boat corning...
Awesome your hard work paid off...
Joe007

[Apples1]

i have just had Solinger Hardware added...Brillaint , Full throttle turns stable, quick, nothing else to say!

Thats my 2 cents!

[Anthony.L]

i have just had Solinger Hardware added...Brillaint , Full throttle turns stable, quick, nothing else to say!

Thats my 2 cents!

I take it you used the Mono hardware package that OSE sells? Can you please take some pics of it installed? I'm considering changing mine over.

[Apples1]

no i dont think its the mono version, i had it installed for me at fast Electricts for about $100 ,he also did some hull mods for me as well (at an extra cost) to increase the ride surface area and lose one step. here is his site www.fastelectrics.com

The thing i unbelievable, and quick too, with out the turn fins. the boat does ride quite high in the water (due to the hull mods) so when i put it into a turn, i back the trottle off for a fraction of a second,crank the steering and gas it full. it tracks really well, but i am still prone to blowovers if the conditions are right, i am running a 645 and 2s lipos with stock motor and ESC.

the reason for all this is only because i am planning on racing at a club and maybe state level if all goes well, i will try and get some photos tonight for you.

[PropNutt43]

I wouldn't attempt using 2 3s packs because the esc is not rated for that high of voltage, I believe 21v is the max.


Would like to make a correction concerning the past statement above from an earlier post. It has been proven wrong in the following thread. Just thought everyone would like to know. If you are looking for crazy speed check it out!!! 55.8mph so far with stock esc and motor on 2 3s packs!!!

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=3820

To: Anthony.L

Sorry for all the questions you are going to get. Thanks for proving It can be done!

[Apples1]

sorry for delay guys...busy week at work! hopefully they help out a little the photos are a little big, this is the reason for photo bucket!

http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/john_watkins1/ :flammes-09:

[PropNutt43]

Apples1

Thanks for posting the pictures of your hull mods!!! They truly answer any questions as to how it should be done for anyone who wishes to make these mods. As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbup1:

[TRUNKMUNKY]

sorry for delay guys...busy week at work! hopefully they help out a little the photos are a little big, this is the reason for photo bucket!

http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/john_watkins1/ :flammes-09:

Now your cookin' with crisco.:rockon2:

[PropNutt43]

TRUNKMONKY,

From your comment, I take it Apple1's hull mod is close to the same as you've done on your boat in this video you posted earlier in the thread.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY


Is this correct? If not, some comparison pics would be nice so we could see what's different.

[MAXAMUS]

Hi all

Still waiting and still no sign of my darn boat :cursing:
lipo's arrived and are currently on charge 2x 7.4v 66000 mah 20c in fact iam already to go ............

Probnutt please could you list the exact items required for the fullers hardware as i think iam going to purchase this as well while iam waiting.

also are you guys inserting any buoyancy aids to the internal part of the boat ? IE are you putting foam up front in the cavity is this advisable in my RC planes sometimes i use to fill the front cavity with the expandable foam filler you spray from a tin available at your local hardware shop

[PropNutt43]

Please refer to Post #5 on the first page of this tread for ordering details on Fullers Offshore Cat Hardware.

As far as adding flotation, it's definitely a good idea. Also always use hatch tape to make sure the hatch doesn’t come off when you flip over. Trust me it will happen.

I wouldn't use the expanding foam from a spray can. It will bulge the hull when it expands. I know because I tried it. It wasn’t pretty and was a lot of fun cleaning it out afterwards.

Pool noodles have worked the best for me. Just cut to fit. You can get them easily at this time of year at most stores.

Or order it:


http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Noodles-Wacky-Noodle-Foam-Swimming-Pool-Floating_W0QQitemZ250168752861QQcmdZViewItem

[TRUNKMUNKY]

TRUNKMONKY,

From your comment, I take it Apple1's hull mod is close to the same as you've done on your boat in this video you posted earlier in the thread.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT2UKoTILJY


Is this correct? If not, some comparison pics would be nice so we could see what's different.

That's the way I did mine,only I run diff hadrware and power system.

[rahallva]

Hi and thanks for the info Do you think just changing the turn finsto be angled like you did will help the BJ 26any dont really want to do all the mods you did but am willing to angle the fins

[PropNutt43]

As I stated earlier in this thread I never ran the fins angled with the stock drive setup so I can't tell you for sure if it will help. I can say it has made a big difference with the setup I am running now.

If you want to try it I suggest using a small hobby file to slot the bottom hole of each turn fin. This way you will be able to play with the amount of angle to put on the fins.

5837 Slotted bottom hole

Use a flat washer with the bottom screw to cover the slot before you tighten it down. If you don't get the results you want at least this way you can put the fins back to the stock position.


5838 With flat washer

I also recommend shortening them so that only 3/4 to 1 inch is below the bottom of the hulls ride surface. A dremel with a cut off blade will do the job. Make sure to sharpen the bottom edge of the turn fins after they have been cut.

[chirotray]

Im trying to get my education on boat handling....what are advantages/disadvantages of drive hardware length? i.e.- the difference in length of the tlr system vs. the fullers?

[PropNutt43]

This is a copy and paste from another thread I posted in. It gives some general info on drive hardware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lyndon915
I have been all through the handling issues thread. I have seen the fuller hardware and am just wondering what some of my other options are and what I am going to gain by running an inline rudder or an offset.


Inline hardware:
Will give you almost equal turning both right and left, I say almost because the torque from the motor and rotation of the prop are factors too. Will also lose a little speed because the rudder is in the path of the props thrust.


Offset hardware:
Will give you superior turning in one direction, the direction depends on which side the rudder is on. Should run faster because there is nothing in the path of the props thrust.


Other considerations:
The distance between the rear of the transom and the prop will affect the boats speed and stability and how easy it blows over backwards.

The farther back the prop the more stable and less likely the boat will blow over because the prop has more leverage to keep it from happening.

The closer to the transom the prop is the more speed you should be able to get because the boat will easily get more airborne, but might blow over easier.

If that doesn't help keep looking at the different threads in these forums they will help you make your decision.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=3643

[chirotray]

Thank you for the info, most helpful. It kinda sounds like a ford vs. chevy issue.

[wafel1978]

Hi Guys !!!


I am building Dumas “Tuna Clipper” (Wooden Boat). I am going to install [Pro Boat----Blackjacks 26 Brushless] Electronics and Brushless motor to her .

I am seeing mods you guys did and I am absolutely impressed.


1. Wondering if the Fuller’s off shore Hardware will be right (good) for this kind of boat ?

Length of boat 37 inch
Wide 8 inch

Maybe you can folks recommend some, I want this boat to be fast .
Waiting for advices.





Thank you for reading
Greeting Pawel

[RCprince]

You may need to make your own thread, you sorta hi jacked this one.

[chirotray]

Just as a quick pointer even though this boat is way off topic, the hardware and electronics here in this thread couldnt be any more wrong for that boat. Something like that go with a 12 volt system so you can have power and ballast taken care of in one shot. Thats always worked well for me on more "scale" projects. But like RCprince said, if you want peoples full attention to help you, start a thread of your own in an appropriate column so that the right people will see it. Back to the BLACKJACK!

[po-boyz]

The stock controller is suppose to take 24 V. I have 2, 3 cell Li-Pos. 4000 mah each.
Nothing has cooked. Boat neeeeds, I mean neeeeeds rudder to control it.

[wafel1978]

ok.

I start new thread, if any one of Blackjacks expert want to post some reply please go to

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=4010


Sorry about posting in Blackjaks thread.

[chirotray]

The stock controller is suppose to take 24 V. I have 2, 3 cell Li-Pos. 4000 mah each.
Nothing has cooked. Boat neeeeds, I mean neeeeeds rudder to control it.

Im not sure if you meant this to be in response to what i told the gentleman about a 12 volt system, but if it was, i meant a 12 volt as in larger gel cell type battery that is very heavy to provide ballast and tons of run time for a scale type boat.

[MAXAMUS]

Hi all

so the saga continues still no darn boat been 3 weeks or more looks like there is an import / distribution problem to the UK :cursing: but on the brighter side i have now wrangled a deal with a lhs in Florida who had 3 in stock and as we speak is processing my order after a lengthy phone call and is shipping out this Monday 30.6.08 :bounce: tomorrow i will be phoning my lhs here to get a refund and tell him the good or bad news however he looks at it lol.

I have all the extras in fact i am all ready to go I've 2x 20c 6000 mah lipo's ,antenna mod /mount, a balanced/sharpened x642 octura prop the programming card a 2.4 GHz Rx and TX well this pending a fatal crash of my RC plane lol but can't say when that will be, also awaiting fullers hardware so as you can see there is only one thing missing yep something to put it all in

when you guy's use hatch tape do you seal the hatch all the way around ? or just a few strips to secure the hatch? is the tape mainly for hatch security or when sealed all the way around for anti water penetration ?

also i am wondering if anyone polishes the hull or applies anything to help the boat cut through the water and reduce drag ?? just a thought :huh:

[chirotray]

I use hatch tape anywhere water can penetrate, dry is good. And lightly scuff the bottom of the hull.

[MAXAMUS]

why what does lightly scuffing the hull do i thought it would need to be smooth as??

[chirotray]

Scuffing helps the boat to break the waters surface tension better. Basically lets microbubbles up under the contacting portion of the hull to make it scoot faster. I know its opposite of what you might think, but its proven. Theres a few threads on here that really explain it.

[MAXAMUS]

i see and what would you recommend doing it with a scouring pad lightly from nose to tail ??

[chirotray]

some guys use like 600 grit, i just picked up the first piece of sandpaper that was in my drawer and went to town. It doesnt take much, and I only did the parts that I felt like would be in the water the most. (back 3/4 or so)

[spinner]

Well I tried my Blackjack with the fins angled inwards, with stock hardware. It definately does not help. The boat hooked real bad coming out of corners and lost some straight line speed.
]

[hex-dj]

Well I tried my Blackjack with the fins angled inwards, with stock hardware. It definately does not help. The boat hooked real bad coming out of corners and lost some straight line speed.
]
True. :iagree: Mine even flipped from the left side from a very sharp turn. It does not help. I was using an Ammo 2300 kv though.

[PropNutt43]

As I have said before I never ran the fins angle with the stock hardware on my boat.

What I can tell you is that I did have the same problems of hooking (spinning out) and losing some speed when I first put angle on the fins.

After running "many times" playing with the prop angle and depth, moving the center of gravity back, and shortening the fins all that went away.

[PropNutt43]

The Problems:

Angling the fins at the stock length causes the boat to run wet, meaning it pushes the front of the boat down.

Running wet reduces your speed and affects the boats turning causing hooking (spin outs).

Fixing the problems:

Shortening the fins reduces the affect of pushing the front of the boat down. 1/2 to 1 inch below the ride surface works best. More stable at 1 inch but much faster at 1/2 inch.

Moving the center of gravity back at least 1 inch will eliminate the hooking
(spin outs).

Raising the prop height and adding a little positive angle will get the speed back up.

[PropNutt43]

Also I have seen pictures on the forums of the turn fins being bent to put angle on them. Only by leaning them over can you be sure they are at the right angle in relation to the length of the hull. If the angle is off it could cause the boat to track funny or even hook.

[chirotray]

I dont have the upgraded hardware yet, but ive been playing just with center of gravity and prop angle. And on my boat with the cg back a bit, and prop up a bit, it aint too bad! Prob not race competitive, but plenty to impress people at the lake! The more i drive it the faster im comfortable turning. I think a little practice on this boat goes a long way.

[rahallva]

Thanks for the info on the turn fins guys . Will wait on angling them awhile

[MAXAMUS]

yipeeee:banana: :banana: :bounce: :bounce:

its arrived at last fresh from Florida in under a week !!

OK to work 1st question the motor mount is not parallel the wooden base mount should this be ?? see attached picture

also what are you guys blocking up the canopy semi circular holes with + antenna hole ? also where the water pick up rubber tube enters the hull at the rear are you waterproofing this and with what ? that should keep me busy for a while now to start some mods

a happy maxamus........

[Wakesurfer]

Wow, the motor mount is looking pretty far out. Try to line it up so it's square and centered on the shaft log. A little clear hatch tape over the hole in the canopies will help keep water and dirt out the pilots faces. I've had good luck taping the hatch down with white electrical tape. Sticks well for keeping the edges sealed but comes off easy after a run. I used it to tape around the ant. hole too, until I ditched the stock Rx for a Spektrum. Never had any leaks around the cooling hose. Big common leak is at the end of the shaft log. Cut about 3/8" off of one of your cooling hoses and slip it on over the end of the log. Put the shaft back in and slide the tube forward so it just touches the shaft and it will help keep it sealed up. Grease the shaft well too. Have fun with it.

[MAXAMUS]

Wow, the motor mount is looking pretty far out. Try to line it up so it's square and centered on the shaft log. A little clear hatch tape over the hole in the canopies will help keep water and dirt out the pilots faces. I've had good luck taping the hatch down with white electrical tape. Sticks well for keeping the edges sealed but comes off easy after a run. I used it to tape around the ant. hole too, until I ditched the stock Rx for a Spektrum. Never had any leaks around the cooling hose. Big common leak is at the end of the shaft log. Cut about 3/8" off of one of your cooling hoses and slip it on over the end of the log. Put the shaft back in and slide the tube forward so it just touches the shaft and it will help keep it sealed up. Grease the shaft well too. Have fun with it.

thanks have lined up the mount removed bat trays done the switch mod just in the final touches of the antenna mount any chance of some pics for the shaft tube ? but thanks alot

[MAXAMUS]

Hi all

well I've just finished work but now down to real work i arrived home to find my fullers cat hardware has arrived so looks like this will take up most of my afternoon all these mods and the thing hasn't been near any water yet ! lol hoping to get down the pond first thing tomorrow and hopefully post some pics and video all going well .......................

could some one please list or point me into the right direction for fitting the fullers cat hardware including fitting and cutting the 150 flexi shaft i know I've seen it somewhere on this forum but cant find it

[lancel]

I believe you mean this pic.

4602

What you see is 30 minute epoxy coating the transom at the rear of the boat. I have drilled more than a few holes in the transom and had too removed some of the wood that doubled up the thickness where the turn fins were originally mounted.

Reason for coating:

Wanted to waterproof the areas that were no longer coated in fiber glass. Also to strengthen around the edges and areas where the turn fins and drive hardware are mounted. You can see it better in this pic.

4603
Propnutt43 - What brand coating did you use?

"What you see is 30 minute epoxy coating the transom at the rear of the boat. I have drilled more than a few holes in the transom and had too removed some of the wood that doubled up the thickness where the turn fins were originally mounted."

[kookie_guy]

hey propnutt, I borrowed one of your pics to ask a question, hope you don't mind....

1) the red measurement. why is it so long? Could this be shortened to bring the prop assembly closer to the transom and reduce the blue distance? If not, then why?

2) is the green measurement critical? Why or why not?

Thanks for any answers.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/boat.jpg

[PropNutt43]

Propnutt43 - What brand coating did you use?


Any 20 - 30 minute epoxy will work. I have been using stuff from my local hobby shop. It's distributed by Bob Smith Industries.

Originally I used their 30 minute epoxy but later found their 20 minute epoxy comes in finish cure which leaves a much thinner coat. Thinner coat, less weight, much better.

[MAXAMUS]

OK iam off to the pond tomorrow hopefully armed with a HD video cam and a camera providing my bro in law turns up and weather permitting

have now moved the dog nut away mm's from the strut re positioned the flexi tube to be more parallele, have re greased flexi drive added a bit of shrink tube from the stuffing tube where it exits the hull to the strut to keep water out made another water pick up from brass tubing and a small plate as of propnutt's design. will see how things go and will report back ..............




left to do ..............shorten fins and angle :biggrin:

MAXAMUS........

[Loki]

Ok WOW!

First off fantastic information, but I must say that I’m such a newb I’m a bit scared to just jump in and start doing all the tweaks. I’ve been flying Helicopters for a little while now and just bought an Apache 24 to run around my pool. Needless to say the bug bit me and now I’m looking to get something with a bit more… umph.

I LOVE the look of the BJ26, but now must admit I’m a little worried about how many tweaks it takes to get this thing working… great. So my question is pretty basic.

Should I be looking at another Boat since this one appears to have some issues right from the gate, or is there a version 2 coming out that addresses some of the faults?

Is there a shop that sells the boat and will do the needed tweaks to it or am I looking at doing this myself?

Thanks for any info

[kookie_guy]

Ok WOW!

First off fantastic information, but I must say that I’m such a newb I’m a bit scared to just jump in and start doing all the tweaks. I’ve been flying Helicopters for a little while now and just bought an Apache 24 to run around my pool. Needless to say the bug bit me and now I’m looking to get something with a bit more… umph.

I LOVE the look of the BJ26, but now must admit I’m a little worried about how many tweaks it takes to get this thing working… great. So my question is pretty basic.

Should I be looking at another Boat since this one appears to have some issues right from the gate, or is there a version 2 coming out that addresses some of the faults?

Is there a shop that sells the boat and will do the needed tweaks to it or am I looking at doing this myself?

Thanks for any info


all these tweaks are not absolutely required. the important one is the hardware change, which is basic. all the other ones are just tweaks and adjustments

[Loki]

Well thanks, thats honestly nice to know. It makes me feel much better inside knowing that the boat itself isn't that bad from the get go.

Has anyone made a master list of items that should be bought for the boat?

Has anyone made a step by step guide to show how some of the basics are done?

Some of the changes do look kick butt, but also look like the modder would have to know a lot about the boat and modding in general.

Thanks again for the response!

[kookie_guy]

Well thanks, thats honestly nice to know. It makes me feel much better inside knowing that the boat itself isn't that bad from the get go.

Has anyone made a master list of items that should be bought for the boat?

Has anyone made a step by step guide to show how some of the basics are done?

Some of the changes do look kick butt, but also look like the modder would have to know a lot about the boat and modding in general.

Thanks again for the response!


Hey,
First thing, before you go buying stuff to upgrade, get the boat, and just run it the way it is. You'll be surprised at the speed this thing can pull off out of the box. From a 'must buy' stand point, I would say the programmer. $18, and makes things a lot easier. Plus if you go lipo you will need to get one.

Mods, one of the first things I did was yank the battery trays so the packs sit lower and make the boat more stable. However, after removing them, you don't have a nice flat spot for the packs to sit. So I'm in the process of putting some flat CF plates in to help with the problem.

Next thing I'm doing is....
1) Remove tupperwear container for the electronics.
2) Relocate the antenna to the hull, with some Bru-Line hardware
3) Seal the hole in the hatch (when my boat flipped on me, this was the primary location for rapid water intake)
4) change the prop
5) making my own custom hardware for the boat (probably be ready in about a month or so, see my thread for updates)

I'm doing all this at once (other that #5) because after the boat flipped, I took the whole thing apart. I figured as long as it's apart, might as well get it done. Another thing to keep in mind is that when you finally start making the little tweaks, don't do too many things at once. Change one thing, and test. If it does not improve performance, it's easy to go back. If you change 5 things, who knows which one is working and which one is not. I'm a noob into boats just as much as you are. But just keep reading on here and you'll do fine.

[MAXAMUS]

Well thanks, thats honestly nice to know. It makes me feel much better inside knowing that the boat itself isn't that bad from the get go.

Has anyone made a master list of items that should be bought for the boat?

Has anyone made a step by step guide to show how some of the basics are done?

Some of the changes do look kick butt, but also look like the modder would have to know a lot about the boat and modding in general.

Thanks again for the response!

Iam a newbie to but have done all the mods and tweaks i to fly planes and the BJ26 was my first step into boating but found most of the mods quite easy the fullers hardware is easy to fit and now i am well impressed with my boat but just need to find the sweet spot video will follow soon i am off next week on holiday but hope to have it posted soon after my return but here are some photos taken yesterday to lure you in some more

[MAXAMUS]

and more foretrex 101 gps arrived today so will be able to post speed results soon

[caecage]

This weekend I noticed that the BlackJack water intake system did not seem to be working like it normaly does. Usually water shoots out the side but today it was barely coming out and it seemed like maybe it was clogged somewhere in the ESC and exiting from there to the motor seemed to be the slow down. Is this common and what do i do to fix it?
Thanks

[kookie_guy]

This weekend I noticed that the BlackJack water intake system did not seem to be working like it normaly does. Usually water shoots out the side but today it was barely coming out and it seemed like maybe it was clogged somewhere in the ESC and exiting from there to the motor seemed to be the slow down. Is this common and what do i do to fix it?
Thanks

put one end of the tube in your mouth and blow really hard. hehe.

[rockwerks]

Ive been thinking of filling in the last step in the hull and how to do it has ben on ly mind, now that I have the hull here in hand the step in the hull is to decrease the wet running area of the hull to increase speed the down side instability in the turns.

A few have filled in the rear step on the hull full width. which has a big improvement on cornering stability but also has increased the drag substantially. My thought is to give it more of a tunnel hull at the rear and only fill in the flat portion of the rear step. It might be a happy medium.. the picture has the area boxed in on the rear of the hull .thoughts?

http://www.fototime.com/%7BCB61B918-4B6C-4B94-A92D-BE6CD5AA8D10%7D/picture.JPG

[Jesse J]

dang, this thread is just what I have been looking for. I am a scratch build junkie - rather spend days tweaking my handbuilt boat than working for the $$ to buy a BJ hull.

I have just begun my BJ comparable wood/fiberglass build (27" total with about 25.5" wet) from some plans a friend gave me. I have built a smaller version (24") but the hull is not true.

To understand what it should look like, could I get one of you cats with the BJ 26 to take a photo? a side shot with the boat upside down and a long straight edge along it to see just how much is flat vs. curved in the steps? I would seriously appreciate it.

Thanks!

[kookie_guy]

here are some photos. If you want other angles you gotta be more specific of what you want.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1909.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1910.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1911.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1912.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1913.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1914.jpg

[kookie_guy]

wouldn't fit.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1915.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1916.jpg

[kookie_guy]

hehe, just saw you wanted a straigh edge. The 2 steps are lower than the flattest part of the boat.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1917.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1918.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1919.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l307/kookie_guy/Boat/PICT1920.jpg

[Jesse J]

Thanks, that really helps. I have had some problems with the smaller hull I am running a faigo 580L, X438 and 3S with the BJ steerable drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVoQUj_RcWw (I have more views on my website)

It seems to suck the right front down and run really wet at speed. I would like a little more air; I am following the plans for a 33% from stern COG, it appears that folks are running 25% for the BJ. I noticed that similar to your photos, my smaller cat has the rear steps a little higher - I think it is a product of my building - the plans call for flat line along the hull.

I wonder if this apparent gap between our straight edges and the rear steps is due to the forward-upward curve on the front step? Try checking along the tunnel - are the steps progressively higher (closer to the tunnel) to the rear?

I appreciate the help!

[kookie_guy]

hey,
it's stepped in the tunnel as well

[rockwerks]

hey,
it's stepped in the tunnel as well

the tunnel is smooth only the sponsons are stepped and this is not the hull to copy it has many short comings in design that I will hopefully be working out soon

[kookie_guy]

the tunnel is smooth only the sponsons are stepped and this is not the hull to copy it has many short comings in design that I will hopefully be working out soon

ya he asked about the sponson steps.

[Jesse J]

what are the things that are not good about the BJ hull?

[rockwerks]

what are the things that are not good about the BJ hull?

bottom of the sponsons too narrow, steps not needed, hull should be rounded on the outside of the sponsons not square....................an a few other things. Before mine hits the water Im going to be reworking the hull a bunch

[pulser]

[QUOTE=TRUNKMUNKY;37823]For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results]

Hey Trunk, was wondering if you might go into more detail about how you attached ply to the bottom of the boat. Any pictures would be great. Your Vid looks like she corners on rails! Is that the only handling mod you made? Thanks.

[rockwerks]

[QUOTE=TRUNKMUNKY;37823]For the hull mod I added a couple pieces of ply to cover the last step on the rearmost sponson,with good results]

Hey Trunk, was wondering if you might go into more detail about how you attached ply to the bottom of the boat. Any pictures would be great. Your Vid looks like she corners on rails! Is that the only handling mod you made? Thanks.

The pics are in this thead.

[Jesse J]

A few have filled in the rear step on the hull full width. which has a big improvement on cornering stability but also has increased the drag substantially. My thought is to give it more of a tunnel hull at the rear and only fill in the flat portion of the rear step. It might be a happy medium.. the picture has the area boxed in on the rear of the hull .thoughts?

http://www.fototime.com/%7BCB61B918-4B6C-4B94-A92D-BE6CD5AA8D10%7D/picture.JPG

Is this what you were referring to as pictures in this thread? Have you had a chance to see how she runs? How wide is that boxed area you show?

Also, what do you mean by rounded instead of square? where?

Anybody have any reason why not to get the OFE strudder instead of Fuller's cat hardware? Anybody tried a wire drive instead of flex?

[rockwerks]

Is this what you were referring to as pictures in this thread? Have you had a chance to see how she runs? How wide is that boxed area you show?

no, that is actually exactly what Im not going to do LOL.

http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/john_watkins1/

pics of what several have done to make the hull turn better and get up on plane quicker

[Jesse J]

Hey Propnut, what were the dimensions of the three colored arrows in post #117? I am considering constructing my own hardware using a wire drive instead. I may just manufacture me up a bracket for my Wholt's strut and monster rudder. The dimensions you found successful would be extremely helpful!
Thanks

[Jesse J]

Rockwerks, dang, rounded hull; quite counter-intuitive. I guess I am a chine-man and am going to be incorporating a second lift-strake acting as a chine along the outside. Got any vid of how your mods perform? Does the roundness help bank her over? or how does it help. I noticed you canceled out the second step, why?

[rockwerks]

Rockwerks, dang, rounded hull; quite counter-intuitive. I guess I am a chine-man and am going to be incorporating a second lift-strake acting as a chine along the outside. Got any vid of how your mods perform? Does the roundness help bank her over? or how does it help. I noticed you canceled out the second step, why?

Ive been talking to a few old guys in the sport and hull designers. because of the cat design the steps are counter productive (in our small versions) because the steps break up the turning edges (the inside sharp edge of the sponsons). The sharp edge on the outside of the sponson can unbalance the boat. digs into the water. (or so Im told. Im getting ready to move in a week to Washington and wont have time to complete the hull till after the move

[PropNutt43]

Hey Propnut, what were the dimensions of the three colored arrows in post #117? I am considering constructing my own hardware using a wire drive instead. I may just manufacture me up a bracket for my Wholt's strut and monster rudder. The dimensions you found successful would be extremely helpful!
Thanks

I didn't post #117 but here are the measurements I got.

Red arrow 2 1/4 inches

Green arrow 3/4 inch

Blue arrow 2 1/8 inches

[Jesse J]

Thanks, I wasn't implying you posted, I noticed that someone asked the same question and am quite interested to see what you had. Since you have been so helpful with much advice, I am glad you have also provided these tasty little morsels of information!

Have you (Propnutt) had similar handling issues as rockwerks has alluded to? It sounds like you have had yours out quite a bit and you haven't made any mention of this potential handling issue.

How deep have you been running your rudder? I see the strut bushing is pretty level with the base of the sponsons, where I'd imagine it to be good.

Thanks again for so much empirical information!

[hex-dj]

About handling hardware.Everyone : I just noticed that Twisted Liquid Racing Co. at www.twistedliquidracing.com has stopped production of all their aftermarket hardware products for the rtr boats including the BJ 26. They had too many problems. Eventualy they may have to shut down everything. Too bad.

[PropNutt43]

Have you (Propnutt) had similar handling issues as rockwerks has alluded to? It sounds like you have had yours out quite a bit and you haven't made any mention of this potential handling issue.

How deep have you been running your rudder? I see the strut bushing is pretty level with the base of the sponsons, where I'd imagine it to be good.

Thanks again for so much empirical information!

I'm sorry but have I entered the twilight zone! The title of this tread is Fixing the BJ26 Handling issues. Please read through the whole tread before posting questions.

And incase you missed the video link in post #75 here is how she handles with no mods to the bottom of the hull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mqv1GBGQfKc


The Bottom of Prop shaft is about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the hull with just a little positive angle in the video.

[rockwerks]

I'm sorry but have I entered the twilight zone! The title of this tread is Fixing the BJ26 Handling issues. Please read through the whole tread before posting questions.

And incase you missed the video link in post #75 here is how she handles with no mods to the bottom of the hull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mqv1GBGQfKc




The Bottom of Prop shaft is about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the hull with just a little positive angle in the video.

ya mean he's supposed to read the WHOLE THING!!!!:help:


nice mods, Im going to go a step further in mine when I get the chance, Im going to narrow the center tunnel to widen the bottom of the sponson

[Jesse J]

First of all, I have read the thread several times. There is a lot of information, so forgive me if I missed a detail. I am fully aware of the title, since that is what interested me in this thread. I have participated in the spirit of improving the handling of the BJ and since I almost bought the BJ, but can't afford it, I have to make my own. I don't know why this should solicit sarcastic remarks...

The handling issues I asked you about were regarding the removing of the second step on rockwerks mods, I have seen your video several times and didn't notice any catching on the inner sponson due to the second step. Since I was not driving it in your video, and I know handling is "felt" through the transmitter, I thought I would ask you your opinion on this "handling of the BJ".

Personally, I think my interaction in this thread is completely appropriate since modifying an existing hull that is "not the hull to copy" is not too far from making your own that is the same dimensions and trying to learn from people who have been changing it through experience.

I think it is too cool when people that love to work on FE boats also are willing to share their modifications and are also glad to explain why they changed them. This helps everybody, even those who are trying to design their own boat and avoid poor handling when they are done.

[rockwerks]

First of all, I have read the thread several times. There is a lot of information, so forgive me if I missed a detail. I am fully aware of the title, since that is what interested me in this thread. I have participated in the spirit of improving the handling of the BJ and since I almost bought the BJ, but can't afford it, I have to make my own. I don't know why this should solicit sarcastic remarks...

The handling issues I asked you about were regarding the removing of the second step on rockwerks mods, I have seen your video several times and didn't notice any catching on the inner sponson due to the second step. Since I was not driving it in your video, and I know handling is "felt" through the transmitter, I thought I would ask you your opinion on this "handling of the BJ".

Personally, I think my interaction in this thread is completely appropriate since modifying an existing hull that is "not the hull to copy" is not too far from making your own that is the same dimensions and trying to learn from people who have been changing it through experience.

I think it is too cool when people that love to work on FE boats also are willing to share their modifications and are also glad to explain why they changed them. This helps everybody, even those who are trying to design their own boat and avoid poor handling when they are done.

Just messin with you a bit:focus:

The sport only gets better with free and active participation and sharing of ideas

From what Ive read here and elsewhere the steps in the cat hull pretty much have a null effect on speed and do affect cornering as the inner lip is broken instead of continuous. The effect is the same as a mono would be if you where to split up the strakes into short broke lines, not a good thing. On a 1:1 offshore rig where the boat is displacing many tons the steps help lift the boat out of the water. On our small scale we are only lifting several pounds of weight and the effects are not the same. We can push the envelope because of the size of our rigs

[Jesse J]

Right on, I'm game for messin, just have a knee-jerk reaction to stuffiness:flame42:

Have you had a chance to do that rounding on the hull and see what it did on the water? Gotta pic to help me visualize?

[rockwerks]

Right on, I'm game for messin, just have a knee-jerk reaction to stuffiness:flame42:

Have you had a chance to do that rounding on the hull and see what it did on the water? Gotta pic to help me visualize?


no chance for a week or 2 moving to washington and am packing up things now

[robin4]

Ive got a stock BJ 26, running with 2x Zippy-H 11.1v 5000mah 20-30c. Having problems keeping it from flipping over when I try to use the throttle. To much torque basicly. I really don't care that much about the handling while cornering, but my main goal is to get the boat stable enough so its possible to launch without flipping over(loop basicly) and keep it from flipping and barrel rolling while reaching top speed. :confused2:

Would like to keep it stock as much as possible.

Any ideas people?

Great thread btw, fun reading about so many different ideas and solutions - Very interesting. Keep it up :)

-Robin-

[MAXAMUS]

try proping down or moving the CofG further forward make sure your strut is set right

well thats my guess !!

[Apples1]

batts as far forward as possible, and drop the strut as low as possible, prop down maybe?

[robin4]

solved the problem i think. I adjusted the tilt a littlebit, and got rid of the battery"holders", and got the CoG much lower, and it worked perfectly at topspeed. worked ok from launch too

So Thanx for all the help guys :)

[waynedawg]

ok i got all the mods in and looks good 1 ques what is the best way to grease the flex shaft i have the grease gun set from offshore thanks

[Apples1]

Take it out and rub it on, and re-install it!

[shadow9823]

um can some one please tell me if i can upgrade my BJ 26 from one brushless motor to two of them.

[rockwerks]

um can some one please tell me if i can upgrade my BJ 26 from one brushless motor to two of them.

This thread:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=4552&highlight=video


practical........HHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMM no, cool YES!:buttrock:

[shadow9823]

so the only way i can do that is if the BJ came with two motors and not one...ook cool

[rockwerks]

so the only way i can do that is if the BJ came with two motors and not one...ook cool

no see he added 2 motors and outdrives, it did not come stock that way

[shadow9823]

o ook

[nate]

Here's some work that I did today. New Drive shaft, motor mount ect.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild002.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild001.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild003.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild003.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild004.jpg


http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild005.jpg

[nate]

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild006.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild007.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild008.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild009.jpg

[nate]

I just put the Motor mount together this morning, looks pretty sweet. The orange color
on the mount is the color going on the boat as well, It should be painted soon I hope. im having a hard time getting this hull primed and sanded its taking awhile.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild013.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild014.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild015.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild016.jpg

[nate]

Just got the Servo mount figured out, put fresh primer on the bottom,
and filled in the original hardware holes ect.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild019.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild020.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild021.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild022.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild023.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild024.jpg

[nate]

Iv finally got one coat of paint on this thing and it turned out nice
considering it looked like crap to begin with lol. It does have a couple of spots
that showed up after the orange went on but it still looks good.

Iv got to do a light sand on this last coat then take it to be cleared, then it should
really shine.

Im lost as to what setup (Motor/ESC) that I want to use, somthing cheap but atleast
see Mid 40's, but all the turning issue's and horrible handling needs to be fixed
to see that kinnda speed...

Here's extra pics from todays last coat and with the mount just setting in place.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild025.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild026.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild027.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild029.jpg

Sorry that the pic's are slamming size lol...

[nate]

Anyone have a good Idea were to buy a good set of upgrade turnfins for theses hull..

[nate]

Ok so Iv got the hardware set, nothings bolted up yet beacuse the paint hasnt cured well, As I mounted the rudder up it was very close to the strut and prop but didnt hit, worried me there for a bit lol..but its slowing coming along...

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild030.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild031.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild032.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk117/clubsrt4/ABlackjackbrushlessneubuild033.jpg

[sn00p]

Isnt the Rudder on the wrong side??? im running a formula fastech and its offset to the right NOT the left. Setup for clockwise circuits. You notice the pickup on and the rudder is also the wrong side of the prop.

[nate]

I don't care about running this boat around a circuit or whatever, its just good for straights honestly lol sucks in corners.

[siranger]

just ran the bj26 and did all the mods exactly the way propnut did his and man is it fun to drive, stays really flat in the turns and corners really quick, i ran it on 5s today and it really gets up and scoots!

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/1.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/3.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/4.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/5.jpg

[MAXAMUS]

just ran the bj26 and did all the mods exactly the way propnut did his and man is it fun to drive, stays really flat in the turns and corners really quick, i ran it on 5s today and it really gets up and scoots!

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/1.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/3.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/4.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/5.jpg

yo clean mods there what bats and prop you using and in what configuration ?
any speed estimates yet like the dual water pick up's whats the spec ??

[siranger]

thanks, batteries are a 2s and 3s both 5400 mh 20c, i dont know how fast it goes, if i were to guess i would say 45 but thats a shot in the dark. the dual water pick ups were just a retarded idea i had to give the esc and the motor there own supply of cold water to help cool just a little more, but i dont really know how much of a difference that makes but it doesnt seem hot at all, its just a little warm to the touch, to clamp the pick ups i just used some 3/16 stainless brake line clamps off my desert truck with some 3/16 aluminum tubing. i have my esc set at hi timing, and linear throttle curve.

[siranger]

oh and the prop is a grimm racer, i dont know which one, the guy at the hobby shop said it would make my boat a lot faster and sold it to me with the boat when i bought it a year ago. but i think im gonna try the octura x642 and see how it goes. As far as my prop angle and height i dont know if i even have it in the right spot for my application, i just set the center line of the prop even with the ride surface of the sponson and put a little up angle in the prop to carry the nose of the boat, but dont take this info as correct, i was just guessing where it should be. If anyone has any more mods to add to mine that will make a noticeable difference i would love to try them out.

[siranger]

the latest mod, got it two days ago!

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/siranger4130/8.jpg

[drew]

Where can I pick up some of those brake line clamps?

[nate]

Looks awsome man!

[siranger]

Where can I pick up some of those brake line clamps?

the brake line clamps you can get from i believe any hi performance race shop or hotrod shop. they are about 25 bukcs for a 12 pack.

[jaybird]

i got a black jack 2 2s smc 6000mah lipo x642 everything else stock and i run in salt water and all i do is flip and barrel roll. is the x 642 good for salt ?or is it because and need to take out the batt trays and change the hardware not lookin to spend a whole lot of cash but lookin to hurt some nitro guys in corners and straits.ill post a video soon.New to rc boats

[drew]

i got a black jack 2 2s smc 6000mah lipo x642 everything else stock and i run in salt water and all i do is flip and barrel roll. is the x 642 good for salt ?or is it because and need to take out the batt trays and change the hardware not lookin to spend a whole lot of cash but lookin to hurt some nitro guys in corners and straits.ill post a video soon.New to rc boats

I run in salt water only and the X642 works great. Take the battery trays out for sure. It will turn flatter with a rudder opposed to a steerable drive.

[Rusty_Noob]

Siranger, what hardware setup are you running at the back?

[Chewy6696]

where did you get that antenna ? I would love to have one like that so I dont have it attached to the canopy.

[Brushless55]

What strut depth do you guys like when running fast?

[tiqueman]

Hey all! Newb on the forum and have been followin this one now and again. I think I saw that someone posted about this but Im going to throw in my 2 pennies. I cut about 3/4" off of my turn fins, removed the stock battery trays and built new ones to sit as low as possible. They sit on the the top of the tunnel and have a slight angle down as they go to the sides of the boat. I also made them longer so I had more options in battery placement. I loosened the bolts that hold the turn fins on and noticed w/ out removing them, I could get a couple degrees on them, so for now, thats how they are going to be. Thats all Ive done besides my 642 prop and I see quite a difference in ride attitude as well as turning. Oh, this is with the STOCK DRIVE hardware. No, it doesnt corner like PN43's, but its a heck of a lot better than it was. I read that some had no luck w/ it. Just wanted to let you all know that my experience was better than I thought it would be.
-Scott

[nutz1207]

I to am a newb to this and i have also removed my batt trays and lowered them and also lowered the esc. i did try angling the turn fins to match the hull and it was not good. put them back to just a couple of degrees in just as tiqueman did and it is a lot better than stock. I am using the stock drive and stock prop. i also noticed that one of my turn fins had a curve in it and that it did not sit 90 degrees to the back of the boat it had a slight angle out. i did fix it and will see if it changes anything.

[sfcoffee]

Iwas about to test boat with improvements but with stock drive. result, never made it to the river. I slipped on the ice and fell. front of boat is now cracked apart (port bow) that sucks..I smashed my elbow too but that will fix its self..ARGG!!!!

[sfcoffee]

Steerable drive system:


I have replaced the stock drive system with Fullers Catamaran Hardware
This drive works excellent especially if you want the BJ26 to turn well both left and right. I have run this setup with the stock motor and brushless esc with the stock prop also with an octura X642 and X442 both detounged. So far I like the performance of the X442 best. Depending on which prop you use you will have to adjust the height and angle differently.

4347

If you are going to stick with the stock drive system after doing these mods please post your performance results. It would be interesting to know how well they work with that setup.

Please remember all these mod locations and positions are starting points. You will need to fine tune them for your boat's setup.
The mods with stock drive and prop definatly helped. Although It still flipped fairly easy when i tried to.. Gps showed 33 mph with prop and shaft paralell(sp) and strut up all the way..

[macerov91]

propnut? can you post more pics of your finished product for the rear? i want to see the final position of your fins?:help:

[tiqueman]

Mace, I just modded mine recently with the hrdwr from OSE. Works fantastic!!!!

[macerov91]

thanks buddy!!!:banana:

is there a specific measurment?:confused2:

[tiqueman]

thanks buddy!!!:banana:

is there a specific measurment?:confused2:

Of what part? the turn fins?

[macerov91]

the turn fins:spy:

[tiqueman]

On mine, the trailing edge of the blade length is 1.5 inches.

[macerov91]

it looks like u just took the bottom screw off and just moved it?

[tiqueman]

it looks like u just took the bottom screw off and just moved it?

Yes because I was testing it at the time. Its now drilled and screwed in that location. And follow the angle of the lower side of the hull.

[youdoneyo69]

I just got my Blackjack 26 BL what is a good place to start with both handling and speed? Thanks

[tiqueman]

Octura X642 prop and Lipos would be a great start. Then when you want it to handle, do the mods listed above. Oh and remove the battery trays to get the batts lower and back a little bit.

[youdoneyo69]

Do you have to balance the X642 prop? If so what is the best way to balance it?

[tiqueman]

Yes you have to sharpen and balance it. OSE sells prop ballancers. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=19

I have the Grim and the Top Flite. The grim works well and is easier to use.

[youdoneyo69]

What Li-Pos should I get?

[Diesel6401]

Buy these.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10305

[youdoneyo69]

What kinda run time will those get?

[Diesel6401]

What kinda run time will those get?

Run time in FE boats should always be timed. I run between 3-5 minutes and those batteries will provide that. Any more than that and the Motor/ESC temps get out of hand. Unlike cars and planes which boats have to overcome more fricition and operate at higher amps meaning more HEAT on electrics. So my point being even if I run my 4000mah packs or I run 2 3600mah packs in parallel for 7200mah I never run more than 3-5 minutes for hear reasons.

[youdoneyo69]

Does anybody know the best way to hold down the Servo? thanks

[youdoneyo69]

I meant how long will the boat run cause the batteries I'm using now only last like 20-30 minutes

[LiPo Power]

What are you looking for???
Speed=hat would be LiPo batteries....
Time=stick with your batteries to get 20-30 minutes...
Can not get both....




I meant how long will the boat run cause the batteries I'm using now only last like 20-30 minutes

[blackcat26]

Does anybody know the best way to hold down the Servo? thanks

Do you mean the Radio aka Receiver? I like to use velco...keeps her from flopping around and has some shock absorbtion to it.

[tomstoys2]

Hey tiqueman,
I'm in the process of installing the same hardware you have from OSE. Did you have to cut the stuffing tube to fit the strut?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80085
Thank,
Tom

[tiqueman]

Hey Tom.. I dont remember. I remember using an exacto to cut a ring around the end of the stuffing tube to remove the paint... but I dont recall if I had to cut the tube or not. I think I did have to take a bit off.

[scoota]

A lot of the poor handling is due to bad sponson design , here are some pics of the mods , with this mod & no turn fins the boat turns like its on rails at speed .

[Brushless55]

A lot of the poor handling is due to bad sponson design , here are some pics of the mods , with this mod & no turn fins the boat turns like its on rails at speed .

Ok, I do not own a BJ26 so what is the mod that you have done?
thanks!

[youdoneyo69]

Ok, I do not own a BJ26 so what is the mod that you have done?
thanks!

Looks like he removed the steps on the bottom of the hull and removed the turn fins

[CatMan]

ok now Im confused? what are the dune buggy pictures for? what does it have to do with the handling of the BJ26 ? did I miss something? does it float? is it your boat recovery vehicle?

[tomstoys2]

:confused:
I'm with you catman. This thread has gone off on some tangents.

I have been working on upgrading mine. I purchase the hardware from Steven
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80085
It's a little different than the Fullers hardware Propnutt43 used over 2 years ago.
I will have to re-drill 3 holes as the drive hardware doesn't line up perfectly. Just off a little. I epoxied the inside transom. Will have to cut about 1" off the stuffing box tube. I'll post some pictures. I'm going to notch the bottom mounting hole of the turn fine so I can adjust it.
I sealed the antenna hole in the hatch by putting a piece of hatch tape over the outside of the hatch. Flipped the hatch upside down and filled it with epoxy. When it dries just peal the tape off and blue touch up paint.
Going to run a 642 prop.
I'll post some pictures.

[scoota]

:confused:
I'm with you catman. This thread has gone off on some tangents.

I have been working on upgrading mine. I purchase the hardware from Steven
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80085
It's a little different than the Fullers hardware Propnutt43 used over 2 years ago.
I will have to re-drill 3 holes as the drive hardware doesn't line up perfectly. Just off a little. I epoxied the inside transom. Will have to cut about 1" off the stuffing box tube. I'll post some pictures. I'm going to notch the bottom mounting hole of the turn fine so I can adjust it.
I sealed the antenna hole in the hatch by putting a piece of hatch tape over the outside of the hatch. Flipped the hatch upside down and filled it with epoxy. When it dries just peal the tape off and blue touch up paint.
Going to run a 642 prop.
I'll post some pictures.

if you slot the mounting holes in the ose strut ,you can use the same mount holes in the hull & the stuffing tube will line up once you shorten it ..

[tomstoys2]

Thanks, that sounds better.

[CatMan]

Hey Tom cant wait to see the Mods you're doing! hope its to a boat. Ha Ha
you dont have a dune buggy do you? .......Sorry couldnt resist and for the record it was a pretty cool dune buggy, but I need four wheel drive where I go.

[CatMan]

Hey Props to the Nutt who started this THANKS! for the great thread I have learned so much from it and cant believe the number of views that it has ( although half of them are probably from me) I cant stay away. It is great to see what everyone is doing and the pics are a great help. It will be awhile before mine ever see's the water but Im betting it will run great because of what I've learned so far. Have already removed battery trays, and will be filling in last step soon. got 2.4Ghz radio so theres another hole to patch. Now all I need is a motor or two, ESC, batteries, servo and rudder ( Yup a newbie with a bare hull and not a clue, how scary is that?) then I can go to the lake in my backyard Thanks so much PropNutt cheers from Branson!

[tomstoys2]

Finished my conversion in time for the weekend. I ran it today with an x642 prop and an x440/3 and it definitly handled the turns way better that before. I ended up putting the turn fins back to stock as with slight inward the boat was rocking back and forth in the straights. If I stayed on the throttle, it would barrel roll. I didn't have a chance to take a video or adjust the strut depth. I think the strut might need to be raised but I'm not sure it can go up any more. It's running just below the bottom sponse right now. I'm going to try and angle the strut to give it a little bow up and see what happens. I ran with my son and his SV that has been GPSed at 38.4mph and I ran right with him. Hull definitly can be aired out a little.
Tom

[CatMan]

Thanks for the Pics ! Did you see any difference between the two props you used?

[tomstoys2]

Yes, for some reason the 440/3 caused it to barrel roll when coming out of a turn and getting on the throttle. I plan on testing some more this week and with different props. I want to try an x442 but I dont' have one.
I'll post results and hopefully a video.
Tom

[Adrian]

Hey Guys, been watching this thread for a while now, thanks Prop Nut. I have had this boat for almost a year now, and blew out my ESC yesterday. I have been running the Turnigy 5 amp 2S lipos on the stock ESC. The only thing I have done differently is change props. About two weeks ago I broke the stock prop and bought a couple of new ones fro the LHS. They are a tiny bit bigger. So my question is would the ESC have blown because I was running lipos for a long time or is it because I had extra load on the motor esc with the bigger prop? Also if I get a bigger amp rated esc will I then just fry my motor? Also any suggestions fr ESC's would be appreciated. I have been checking out this site, and don't know if these products are any good.
http://www.gfreakracing.com/products/stage-2-esc-80-amps

[Diesel6401]

Hey Guys, been watching this thread for a while now, thanks Prop Nut. I have had this boat for almost a year now, and blew out my ESC yesterday. I have been running the Turnigy 5 amp 2S lipos on the stock ESC. The only thing I have done differently is change props. About two weeks ago I broke the stock prop and bought a couple of new ones fro the LHS. They are a tiny bit bigger. So my question is would the ESC have blown because I was running lipos for a long time or is it because I had extra load on the motor esc with the bigger prop? Also if I get a bigger amp rated esc will I then just fry my motor? Also any suggestions fr ESC's would be appreciated. I have been checking out this site, and don't know if these products are any good.
http://www.gfreakracing.com/products/stage-2-esc-80-amps

Welcome to the forum. Yes if you over-propped, the motor can pull more amps then the esc can handle. As far as the esc you listed please stay away from anything dealing with gfreak they are gfakes. Everything the sell including their hulls are alot cheaper then the price they charge. All they do is put the logo on it. You can read this thread for more info about it http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=12809&highlight=freak. Any of the first 3 on this page will get the job done http://www.kintecracing.com/Electrical.html. The 2nd or 3rd maybe better only because the first one is kinda big and I don't own a BJ so im not sure about the room in the hull. Happy boating. Do you know what prop you purchased?

PS you should always balance/charge every lipo JMO.

[Adrian]

I put a Grimracer L45 x 68mm Lifter PR on it (brass in case that matters), and it made it scoot pretty well. It does torque the boat a little if you gun it from a stop. So with the upgrade on the ESC I don't have to worry about the motor, since the motor is what pulls the current? Thanks for the help

[Diesel6401]

I put a Grimracer L45 x 68mm Lifter PR on it (brass in case that matters), and it made it scoot pretty well. It does torque the boat a little if you gun it from a stop. So with the upgrade on the ESC I don't have to worry about the motor, since the motor is what pulls the current? Thanks for the help

WHOA, complete wrong prop, for 2 reason. First the "L" means its a lifter which is designed for hydros and riggers to lift the transom out of the water. 2nd the dia (45) and pitch (68) are WAY to much for what you have in this boat. Your best bet would be to sell the prop in the swap shop because it just won't work for this boat at all. A Octura 642 would be much better. Even when you get your new esc don't use the prop you have. Once you get rid of the prop and get something smaller you shouldn't have to worry about over-loading the motor. Just always rememeber to time your runs and watch the heat on the motor and esc.

This one is already sharpened and balanced for you:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=octsb-x642

[Adrian]

OK... thanks for the advice, I would have thought the LHS guy would have pointed that out since I was buying it to replace the prop from the boat that I had bought from them. What do you mean by time your runs? Like don't run it full throttle for more than a few minutes? I normally run around my boat when I'm out on the lake. Thanks again.

[Diesel6401]

OK... thanks for the advice, I would have thought the LHS guy would have pointed that out since I was buying it to replace the prop from the boat that I had bought from them. What do you mean by time your runs? Like don't run it full throttle for more than a few minutes? I normally run around my boat when I'm out on the lake. Thanks again.

No, always try to run full throttle as much as possible. Think of it like you car, your car runs better on the highway (constant RPM). It's more efficent that way, heat goes down gas mileage goes up as opposed to city driving which is more straining. Your boat is the same way more efficent at WOT and better for it JMO.

Meaning overall time the boat is running. I have a timer on my radio set to 5minutes, when I put the boat in the water I start the timer when it goes off I bring it in, reason being is heat. Unlike cars and planes rc boats pull way more amps which means more heat at less time and drains the batteries quicker

[Adrian]

OK, so then you shut it off for a while and run again? How long or just until everything has cooled down? My batteries last for 20 minutes depending on how hard I push them. Plus I have 3 sets. The last set I bought were Air Thunders which have the overload protecting them from puffing. The Turnigy have done pretty well though, you just have to balance charge them.

[Diesel6401]

OK, so then you shut it off for a while and run again? How long or just until everything has cooled down? My batteries last for 20 minutes depending on how hard I push them. Plus I have 3 sets. The last set I bought were Air Thunders which have the overload protecting them from puffing. The Turnigy have done pretty well though, you just have to balance charge them.

Yup just till everything cools down, and while it's cooling I check voltage per cell on my lipos. I only run zippy and turnigy batts. No set time, depends how hot electrics are and how out it is outside. I normally wait 10ms-15ms or longer and normally switch packs and top off batts on other set. My garage and apartment is 30 yards from the lake where I run at so I have an advantage with that. I use to keep a charger in the house and after I would run 2 sets come in the house chill while they charge a bite to eat or soo. Easy living lol.

[Adrian]

Cool, great info. Thanks, I may just go back with the same stock ESC since I have the programmer for it and I'm pretty sure it was the prop that hosed everything up. Thanks again, I hope others can learn from the $66.00 plus shipping mistake that I made. Also don't trust the LHS guy, they don't know what they are talking about a lot of the time.

[Diesel6401]

Very good. The stock esc is good, turn your timing to high on your card if you havent already done that. Motor will run better. Try out some of the CF props if you don't want to spend the money on a s&b prop or buy one raw and learn to s&b yourself. I would take the prop you have back to the LHS and see what they can do and tell them your story. I am 99.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999% sure that prop caused the failure. Happy boating buddy and once again welcome

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=grp-2317.42

[cnoe88]

I put the stock BJ26 Nitro hardware on and it made a huge difference from stock, plus it was only like $26 on Ebay. I modified it so that ther rudder is behind the prop, still have make it look good though. I noticed on the Fullers hardware that the rudder seems to be deeper than mine. Will lowering the rudder make it handle any better?

[roadrashracing]

Is there anykind fo rear prop/ rudder that will bolt right on with out mods, I don't want to be cutting drilling filling etc.

[tiqueman]

I put the stock BJ26 Nitro hardware on and it made a huge difference from stock, plus it was only like $26 on Ebay. I modified it so that ther rudder is behind the prop, still have make it look good though. I noticed on the Fullers hardware that the rudder seems to be deeper than mine. Will lowering the rudder make it handle any better?

It very well could. I had a different cat w/ all kinds of handling issues. I popped on a different (much deeper) rudder and its now my best handling cat.


Is there anykind fo rear prop/ rudder that will bolt right on with out mods, I don't want to be cutting drilling filling etc.

Im 99.9% sure there is not. The hardware OSE has, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80085, is identical to the HOTR hardwr or the hrdwr that comes on the Genesis, is very easy to fit and you can re-use two of the existing holes. Its tight, but it does work. The other two holes if I remember are not far off... Unfortunately Steve has been out of stock for a while. But, you can find it on ebay.

[roadrashracing]

I boat likes to lean to one side in the water, is there a way to fix this?

[tiqueman]

I boat likes to lean to one side in the water, is there a way to fix this?

sitting still or in motion?

[roadrashracing]

Both more in motion

[tiqueman]

What prop are you turning?

[roadrashracing]

Stock

[tiqueman]

So is it just a tiny bit of lean? If so then its normal. If its a mad amount... then somethings wrong. Are you running a 2S in each sponson? Check that your drive is square. A friend of mine got a BJ26 not long ago and was having nasty handling issues. Way worse than the typical stock problems. When we looked more closely at it, the drive was slightly leaning to one side. We squared it up and it was a totally different boat and rode much more true.

[roadrashracing]

I was running 2 7 cell, how much water should be getting in the hull? How do you tell if it is square?

[roadrashracing]

It can get to a point to where it becomes unstable while turning

[tiqueman]

I was running 2 7 cell, how much water should be getting in the hull? How do you tell if it is square?

The goal is none at all. How much are you getting? you should be able to eye ball it. Just be sure its straight up and down while looking at it from the back. Be sure its not leaning to one side or the other.


It can get to a point to where it becomes unstable while turning

Welcome to the BJ26. It will always be unstable in a turn. I roll mine at least a couple times every outting if Im running against someone or in a good chop. If the water is flat, I can generally pull off a full run right side up. But you have to watch it thru the turns. They will get away from you real quick.

[roadrashracing]

1 or 2 cups after a run

[tiqueman]

1 or 2 cups after a run

Not good. When mine comes in, there would not be enough to create a full drop of water.

Be sure you are greasing the shaft before each days outting. I usually grease mine every other run if its within the same day. If its different days, its greased evertime it goes out.

Are you running the stock drive?

Be sure none of your water lines are leaking.

Cut a short piece of water line and slip it over the end of the suffing tube, inside the boat. When you install the cable, it will slide thru it and make a good water seal if the problem is coming thru your shaft. I have this on all of my boats and it works fantastic.

[roadrashracing]

I will look it over and tub test it