Congratulations D13 Racers

[Doug Smock]

Another year gone by without a single motor /control failure in our P Limited classes!!!!!!

Doug

[Chilli]

No burned out motors/controllers out in D12 races either. Mine will all be used for next season!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ib5H5auk-c

[Fluid]

District 7 has been fire-free as well in P-Limited Sport Hydro, our most active class. I'm on my 3rd season with my original UL-1 motor.



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[LuckyDuc]

Going on my third season here in Dist 4 with my P-Ltd motors as well.

[Fluid]

Is there a District which IS burning up spec equipment?



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[Doug Smock]

Sigh...........

[Doby]

Must be from the use of extra "spec" heatshrink on the motor wires.

[Fluid]

Is there a District which IS burning up spec equipment?

Guess not - good to know.




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[Doug Smock]

Guess not - good to know.




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LMAO Bored Jay?? Thanks for chiming in. I'll post little tid bits on this thread for you as I run across them.

[QUOTE]---, they're Dubro pushrod seals that I trimmed some. What with the way I go through speedys & such, you can pull through the wires (with a little lube on them) when switching out speedys. [QUOTE]

The UL-1 motor comes with a boat that includes a 60 amp esc. This is 60 continuous amps. I put my eagletree recorder on a boat in the early part of the year. In a race, I averaged 90 amps with bursts of up to 120 amps. My guess is that this is probably typically for everybody. I think this is why the motors go bad is that we are running them harder than they were designed for. Remember that it comes in a RTR boat with a smaller prop which is plastic.

sincerley,

[QUOTE]
been there done that------, and in my experience the motor is not the only thing that fails the esc usually goes with it, been there done that too many times. also seen it happen many more times.

I have seen people take out 120-240amp escs on these spec motors when they fail.

My Whip has a modified ride pads and even then prop size for heat racing is limited and it ran best in competition with the 42x66 [QUOTE]

Motors are damaged by heat. That's a function of current, not voltage. Motors can be run at much more than their ratings depending on the quality of their insulation. As an example, the UL-1 motor is rated at a maximum of 80 amps. We see over 100 amps frequently on P spec boats. The motors often last more than one race season before they fail. For non competition running, I would stick to the manufacturer's rating. A 40C current from a 5000 mah battery is 200 amps. 60C is 300 amps. You need a serious speed control to be able to exceed that, even for a short time.

Lohring Miller

"many motors let the smoke out but FUN "!!

Technically I didn't prop DOWN, I just didn't prop UP. The air and water was really hot and I held off using my super-killer-stator-unfriendly prop for that reason. I was going to use it for the last heat but knew edit would/could outdrive me so why risk the motor. [btw 5 edit FE racer's motors went bye-bye this season in answer to your question

The little 2030 motor is really too small for a boat that size and requires a prop too small for efficiency if motor temps are to be kept under control. Been there done that as have others, although I stopped before I actually burned one up. Others were not so lucky. That motor works well on a smaller hull like the FE-30 although you can easily prop it too big and burn it up - club members have done that.

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http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...tor-discussion