PDA

View Full Version : Ace's Hydromite Build



ace028
03-04-2008, 09:47 PM
Ok, I sent the plans for Doug Forresters Hydromite out to be lazer cut from Lazer Works, they charged me $34 shipped to my front door. I plan on using the Mini Cat Racing USA hardware and power it with a 3 cell lipo (maybe even a 4 cell in the future) on a mamba 25 speed control, since I already have one, and some kind of in-runner motor.

The quality of the lazer cut is very good, Though I will still need a sheet of 1/64 ply to make a hatch and the bottom of the boat, no big deal. You can see in the pics that I have just put the hull together for fitting purposes, it will be put together on a jig, I just wanted to see how it is going to fit. Over all the price is great and so far it looks like it will be a easy build. Feel free to comment. This may be a slow build, I have a lot of projects going on, but sometimes some look so cool, that you just add to the list of things to do, and I just got a team associated t4 that I hope to start racing. Thanks!!!

peells
03-05-2008, 01:15 AM
well well,
the hydromite looks good so far make sure you take plenty of pictures of the making of the jig and gluing up process,
The renegade rigger is closer to being painted and so is Pete's Nitro Hunter 2

ace028
03-05-2008, 01:25 AM
What size motor should I run, I was thinking like a mamba 4200 or something, or a eflite/ hacker motor. Any suggestions?

peells
03-05-2008, 09:18 AM
Well that blue one you have when you put 3s to it, it should fly. or you could find one of those sidewinder packages, I have a few other ideas you should not need a hv controller so you could use an hxt 80 or 120 amp with a pistik and since it is able to be computer setup at an affordable price you could just pick up a motor, then purchase the cooling plates from ose and you ll still be in it cheaper than some of more expensive setups (poor boy) and you know how long my 80 amp one lasted (until I hit it with a 6s blast) it never got hot.

ace028
03-05-2008, 10:17 AM
This boat is only 16" long, it will only need 25-35 amps of power. It needs a 380-400 size motor.

peells
03-05-2008, 04:00 PM
Well,
Then I can get that stuff signifantly cheeper:banana: DUDE!!!!

Avanti
03-05-2008, 04:20 PM
bada$$ man
check ebay for cheap motor I am very happy with mine the boat hauls

ace028
03-07-2008, 10:12 PM
Ok, here is some more build pics. As you can see I have built a jig, pretty simple, some of the smaller peices that you see are shims to align everything properly, I used some sewing needles to hold a bulkhead in place, now I need to go to the store and buy some clamps to hold the sides of the tub in place so nothing moves at all and then glue the bulkheads in place.

peells
03-08-2008, 10:17 AM
:rockon2: Right on Asa now I see how the jig works cool don't mess the table up mom will kill you! don't you have a hobby table? well I cant wait to see your finished boat keep taking pictures.

Dad

ace028
03-08-2008, 11:48 AM
:rockon2: Right on Asa now I see how the jig works cool don't mess the table up mom will kill you! don't you have a hobby table? well I cant wait to see your finished boat keep taking pictures.

Dad

Thanks, yeah I have the big desk, but I have the computer on it and then I also have my T4 truck on it, plus the table is more wide and the lighting is better in the kitchen, I need a desk light.

Here you can see that I clamped the sides and glued some of the bulkheads in place and the center hull former, those clamps I bought at walmart for like $4, they are pretty cheap but get the job done, actually one of them that was just holding the side broke and flew across the room I didn't even touch it, now thats cheap :w00t: Now I need to get some 3/16 x 1/4 balsa to run down the bulkhead in the notches that are there. This kit goes together like a puzzle. the peices fit pretty tight, so it is going to be strong, but I hope I never find out "how strong".

peells
03-08-2008, 12:05 PM
Don't forget to bring it over before you close in the hull (put the top skins on) sponsons ect. so I can spray some resin inside it. And for all you that do not know how to spray resin cause it stays soft and sticky do not use it or find out how to properly mix it.:sorry: I just had to go there:bounce:

ace028
03-09-2008, 12:34 AM
I glued in the bulkhead stringers, and once they were dry I pulled it from the jig, it is nice and true. I glued in the Non-trip shear parts on the sides. Now it needs some sanding here and there, and then its time to start covering the bottom, and then coat the inside with protectant to seal the wood. Its starting to look like a boat now.:bounce:

Opps how did that pic of my T4 get in there:rofl:

peells
03-09-2008, 01:28 AM
hey that looks great and so does the truck!!! not bad for limited resources. and look out for the 12 year olds they haven't learned they are not supposed to beat up on there elders..

peells
03-09-2008, 01:30 AM
Oh watch out when you skin that thing I just found out that the skin can warp the frame work, I got a little warpage on my hatch but I know how to straighten it.

ace028
03-09-2008, 01:43 AM
I will wet the wood before I skin it so it will flex better. I can even clamp it in the jig while I skin the bottom

Steven Vaccaro
03-09-2008, 08:51 AM
Littlescreamers is building a watercooled outrunner motor. it should by the summer. its a good motor to look into.

ace028
03-09-2008, 12:21 PM
Littlescreamers is building a watercooled outrunner motor. it should by the summer. its a good motor to look into.


Who is Littlescreamers? I wouldn't mind doing and outrunner, I know they have lots of torque.

ace028
03-09-2008, 06:22 PM
Here I have installed a turn fin support, and have started gluing the tub sides on. They need to be trimmed after the glue dries. Next I will work in the sponson ride pads. I cant glue the tub botton on because the hobby store doesn't have any 1/64 plywood, or 1/32. I may have to go to michaels.

ace028
03-09-2008, 08:30 PM
Here I have glued part of the ride pads on and the sides of the pads, they will need some work to true them up. That dark line that looks like a crack in the wood is part of the grain, no cracks.

ace028
03-12-2008, 01:10 AM
ok, I have glued the bottom skin in, and have done some work on the ride pads, they are covered, but need some work to make them perfect, probably will have to use a lil filler on them.

Here is a pic of my driver tools in a box, I thought it would be fun to post how I store them in a box all organized. I had some left over tool box foam from my work tool box and decided to line a box to keep my hobby drivers organized. Its cheap to do and its easy to store and you don't have to dig around in a tool bag or box to find a size. I'll have to come up with something to store my "L" shaped ones in too. One of these days I'll have a big box like the one at my work full of hobby tools, wouldn't that be cool :w00t:

Avanti
03-12-2008, 08:46 AM
Nice work, the boat is really coming together.

peells
03-12-2008, 08:56 AM
Looks good you are going to need to have the protective inside coating done soon! and I am going to need to do some of that this weekend.

ace028
03-15-2008, 01:57 AM
What do you think of this motor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/E-Flite-Blade-400-Brushless-420-Heli-Motor-3800kV_W0QQitemZ200207255500QQihZ010QQcategoryZ256 3QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or I was thinking about a hacker, not this particular kv, but the same series
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hacker-E30-11L-High-performance-Brushless-Motor_W0QQitemZ110217213433QQihZ001QQcategoryZ3406 1QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Avanti
03-15-2008, 09:50 AM
I would go with the outrunner it seem to be the way everyone is going with the micros. and they are cheaper check my thread the esc and motor I am running only cost $28 and some change shipped for both. they have been working great

ace028
03-17-2008, 12:07 AM
Thanks, I'm still not sure which way to go, I like the outrunners though. I may just buy both then swap back and forth, who knows, I will have to make a decision soon though.

I got some more work done, I have done a little more sanding, and my dad sprayed the inside of the hull to protect it, and I have glued the sponson decks on and the surrounding area for the hatch. I need to sand the excess hang over of the deck, as it was oversize, and fill the gaps between the deck and the hatch area. Also the relief cuts in the deck on the bow will need filled, they were a little to big, but nothing scrap balsa can't fix. This boat is starting to take shape well, and is very true and straight and strong. Not much further to go, I'm coming to the point where I just want to put it in the water and hang on, but I have to be paitent and save some money up for the hardware and motor.

ace028
03-18-2008, 12:20 AM
I have filled in some of the gaps with balsa and balsa filler, and have rough sanded the sponson decks to proper shape. Just have to fine sand and touch up a few places, and it will be ready for a protective coating, and to start on the hatch.

Avanti
03-18-2008, 12:59 AM
looking good brother

ace028
03-18-2008, 01:09 AM
looking good brother

Thanks, I can't wait to finish it.

peells
03-18-2008, 08:54 AM
good things take time

ace028
03-21-2008, 01:26 AM
Small update:
I ordered the hardware which is very similar to the mini cat racing hardware, and I have done a little finish sanding. I will construct the hatch this weekend and will post some pics.

peells
03-21-2008, 09:56 AM
Hey do you have the hatch made yet? well whats taking so long? it is Friday.......LOL

ace028
03-21-2008, 10:22 AM
Well, I went to michaels and bought the wood for the hatch, as the kit only came with the peices that are a template in the drawings ( I will have to measure a few peices and tell them at lazerworks to include them in the kit) The boat will probably sit for a while after this weekend, I need to get the motor, witch I think is going to be a eflite outrunner 420, I will water cool the motor mount to help draw heat out of the armature, but I will have to use brass, since I don't think that I can solder aluminum. Well I better get ready for work, I'll post some pics tonight or tomorrow.

ace028
03-21-2008, 10:44 PM
I have started on the hatch, I also added a rounded peice to the front of the tub. The hatch is rough and will need some fine tuning. The pics are not the greatest, they were taken on my cell phone, I need to charge my batteries for my digital camera. Tell me what you think. I also orderd the motor, its a eflite outrunner 420. hopefully it isn't too hot of a motor, its 3800 kv. I may have to add a fan to help keep things cool, but I'm not going to worry about it yet, I want to get the hull painted up and I will worry about the other stuff as I get to it.

ace028
03-23-2008, 07:35 PM
Here are a bit better pics, I havne't really worked on it much this weekend, I've been lazy. I think I may re do the hatch cockpit. Its hard to make it symetrical buy carving a block of balsa. What do you think?

FRED
03-23-2008, 08:28 PM
Not important.

ace028
03-23-2008, 09:46 PM
? on the 420 outrunner motor. I thought outrunners shell revolved and the inrunners shell remained stationary so can cooling could only be on the inrunners!:help: Also how many volts for the 420 > Reason at 3800 x 7.4 brings you 28120 rpm ; alot of power for a 16" boat. I think you'll be diappointed cause it will be unstable unless you go to a 1x4 pitch on prop or you'll get torque roll.

The shell does rotate, I was going to cool the mount that the motor mounts to, because you know that the heat will transfer to a less hot surface, and thats the only place that I can actually cool, it might not be effective though. Well I am going to power it with a 3 cell lipo pack, the renegade rigger is a little smaller (though it is wider) and has a 400 size with 2600kv, pushing about 45mph with a large prop and seems to not have torque problems. I haven't finished mine, but I have seen videos of the renegade run. here is a link

http://media.putfile.com/Renegade-rough-water-mods (http://media.putfile.com/Renegade-rough-water-mods)

but if it doesn't work I can always change to something else.

FRED
03-23-2008, 11:29 PM
Not important.

ace028
03-23-2008, 11:54 PM
Yeah, it probably is too hot of a motor, but hey it was only 30 bucks, so I couldn't pass it up. I think bl is alot cheaper in the long run, because you have virtually no maintence to do on them, and they are more effecient so you will get more power and longer runtimes, and the prices are starting to come down a little. But being on the edge with speed is exciting. I can always change the motor out though.

peells
03-24-2008, 12:29 AM
OK you asked me if i saw the pics of the lake where you will be running your boats But I can't find them......ummmmm you must have forgot to post them or send me them!! Now that I have everyones interest you got to post, Na, Na, Na ,Na ,Na, Na!!!!

Dad

ace028
03-24-2008, 12:30 AM
OK you asked me if i saw the pics of the lake where you will be running your boats But I can't find them......ummmmm you must have forgot to post them or send me them!! Now that I have everyones interest you got to post, Na, Na, Na ,Na ,Na, Na!!!!

Dad

if you look at the main forum you will see:tongue_smilie:

ace028
03-24-2008, 09:07 PM
Got my motor today, heres a pic. Now I have to make a motor mount.

Diegoboy
03-24-2008, 09:55 PM
The shell does rotate, I was going to cool the mount that the motor mounts to, because you know that the heat will transfer to a less hot surface, and thats the only place that I can actually cool, it might not be effective though. Well I am going to power it with a 3 cell lipo pack, the renegade rigger is a little smaller (though it is wider) and has a 400 size with 2600kv, pushing about 45mph with a large prop and seems to not have torque problems. I haven't finished mine, but I have seen videos of the renegade run. here is a link

http://media.putfile.com/Renegade-rough-water-mods (http://media.putfile.com/Renegade-rough-water-mods)

but if it doesn't work I can always change to something else.

Everyone links to this video when talking about the renegade! It's cool because it's MY boat!:tongue_smilie:
Ace, That motor should work well!

ace028
03-24-2008, 10:01 PM
Everyone links to this video when talking about the renegade! It's cool because it's MY boat!:tongue_smilie:
Ace, That motor should work well!

Thanks, I can't wait to drive it, I am still waiting on my dad to help me paint my renegade so I can drive that too. (I know he's busy working.....on his boat instead of mine lol)

ace028
03-25-2008, 12:40 AM
Here I made a motor mount, which needs a little cleaning up, and I soldered a brass tube to it for water cooling, I think it will work ok. The mount isn't bolted up yet, its just kind of sitting there.

You can see where I accedently touched the balsa with the iron, opps.

ace028
03-30-2008, 12:26 AM
I did some sanding on the hull, don't know if you can tell from the pic, I filled in a few spots with balsa filler. It needs to be sprayed with a protective coating, and sanded, primed to help see any spots that need filled. I didn't like my motor mount that I made, and the small kink in the tube, so I made a new one. I have to solder a tube to it still. I am also making a new hatch, but its not ready for a pic yet. Hopefully it will turn out good.

peells
03-30-2008, 11:03 AM
The mount looks pretty good and you are right you can't see the sanding very well.
and the symmetry of the hatch well you 'll have to have a discerning eye. (eyeball it) Keep up the work I am going to maybe Post my boat today

peells
03-30-2008, 11:06 AM
I see you signed and dated your build, Nothing like a little personalization

ace028
03-30-2008, 12:50 PM
I see you signed and dated your build, Nothing like a little personalization

Actually its my phone number, just in case it gets lost somehow or sunk and someone finds it, if they have the courtesy to find the owner, they have the information to call me.

ace028
03-30-2008, 03:25 PM
Here are some pics of the hatch, I looks to be symetrical, but still needs some sanding. I think it looks ok, what do you guys think.


To bad I couldn't make it where there was a fan that sucked fresh air though the scoop without sucking water, but I think it would be very hard to accomplish that in the case of a flip. I know I will flip it, with the 3800kv motor it is bound to do more flying then skimming the water.:rockon2:

peells
03-31-2008, 08:46 AM
Hey I have been looking for your hatch pics? where are they?

peells
03-31-2008, 08:53 AM
That was weird, I was looking for your pics and when I posted that first statement they showed up!
But any way it looks great, good eye, now after it gets painted it should look Awesome!!! and I found a hotrod little water cooled motor for it, like a 4900 Kv!!! you would totally be adding some weight to that thing in the front to hold it down, then you could use it in a SAW (straight a way, run)

ace028
03-31-2008, 09:16 PM
I got my hardware today in the mail, check it out. I think I am going to try a octura strut bushing in the strut to see if it will fit. How should I mount the turnfin? Should it be straight down or at a angle?

Avanti
03-31-2008, 09:28 PM
I am not even running a turn fin, but the drawings show it angled

peells
04-01-2008, 09:30 AM
well it looks like you can adjust it around to find the best position,
I would start with what the drawings show first.

peells
04-03-2008, 10:38 PM
So what are you waiting for mount your hardware get all the holes done and bring her up for a resin treatment!!

ace028
04-04-2008, 01:23 AM
I have mounted the hardware, don't mind the stain on the wood, I was curious as to what it would look like, and don't like it, I made sure it was water based so I can paint over it. I need to add the water inlet and outlet and the antenna outlet, and finish the bellows boot hole. I used blind nuts on the transon and turn fin, since they will make life easier since there isn't a lot of finger room in the hull. I got some blue anadized 4-40 bolts to dress things up a bit, and I needed some bolts anyways, now that I look at it I should have got red or something to make them stand out. The pics are all kinda the same angle, but you can see whats going on. This hardware is pretty nice, and cheap. I can't wait to drive it, but there is still lots to do.

peells
04-04-2008, 03:59 PM
Resin time!!!! see ya saturday

ace028
04-19-2008, 07:07 PM
Here I have taken a octura bearing and have honed it down to fit the strut. Now it will accept 3/16 shaft. Fits as good as it does in my soliger and octura strut.:rockon2:

peells
04-20-2008, 11:22 AM
Well it looks like that fits nicely beats paying 40.00 bucks doesn't it?

ace028
04-20-2008, 11:26 AM
Well it looks like that fits nicely beats paying 40.00 bucks doesn't it?

Yeah, if your talking about buying a different strut, or the Mini cat shaft and props, then definatly.

zzzxxx
06-11-2008, 03:36 AM
HI ace wow ur boat is almost done. looking good:w00t:

i was just wondering where did u get those hardwares and how much did they cost?

thanks

peells
06-11-2008, 08:47 AM
R2hobby.com

ace028
06-11-2008, 09:28 AM
I think it was about 35 shipped.

zzzxxx
06-11-2008, 02:47 PM
R2hobby.com

Did this site just went down? cuz it didnt work when i tried it:confused2:

ace028
06-11-2008, 09:20 PM
Here is a link to the parts I bought, you'll have to scroll down on the page for some of the links. They sell mini cat parts, just under the original makers name so its a lot cheaper then buying from mini cat racing, and they are the exact same parts and boats.

Rudder (http://r2hobbies.com/products.php?cat=59&pg=4)

Turn fin (http://r2hobbies.com/products.php?cat=59&pg=3)

Strut (http://r2hobbies.com/products.php?cat=59&pg=7)

zzzxxx
06-11-2008, 11:55 PM
For the hardware u've ordered does it fit well with the octura parts?

note: im actually not sure how to install the hardware, motor, and octura parts. i just noticed that the strut isnt a octura part so was wondering will it have any problems fitting

if u can please post some pictures showing step by step how u installed all the parts

Thanks

ace028
06-12-2008, 10:23 AM
If you follow my post, I used a 3/16 ID srut bearing and ground the outside down very evenly until it would press into the strut. I am using .130 size cable to 3/16 propshaft with 1/8 step down to fit 1/8 props. The only octura parts I am using are the strut bearing, prop shat and cable and a prop.

zzzxxx
06-12-2008, 05:26 PM
If you follow my post, I used a 3/16 ID srut bearing and ground the outside down very evenly until it would press into the strut. I am using .130 size cable to 3/16 propshaft with 1/8 step down to fit 1/8 props. The only octura parts I am using are the strut bearing, prop shat and cable and a prop.

do u happen to have the serial number for the parts u've used?

ace028
06-12-2008, 08:27 PM
They are here on OSE, octura 3/18 to 1/8 prop shaft, and .130 flex cable and 3/16 strut bearings.

ace028
07-13-2008, 03:16 PM
zzzxxx, sorry for not posting a link, here is the shaft, and cable I used
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc64pkg

And here are the strut bearing I modified to fit the strut.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6ltsb

I think a ballbearing in the strut is better (less friction) , but I did this because I wanted to use regular props, and not a odd 3mm size props, and using standard parts such as the cable and shaft are easier to obtain, incase you break the shaft or something of that nature. Also this lets me switch props around from boat to boat.

Just an update, my renegade rigger is complete, so this project will now get my attention.

peells
07-13-2008, 03:57 PM
The site works I go there regularly and would recommend them to anybody there customer service is A++++ It might take a while because they are all the way in china but they make things right and value their customers!!!!
R2hobby.com

peells
07-13-2008, 04:03 PM
Ok here is the right link I messed up sorry, http://www.r2hobbies.com/products.php?cat=59&pg=9

Avanti
07-13-2008, 05:30 PM
when is this baby going to the paint shop????

ace028
07-13-2008, 07:34 PM
Hopefully very soon, my dad is doing the paint work so I have to bug him about it, I have all the stuff for it

Castle creations pheonix 25 esc
Eflite 420 outrunner motor
Specktrum mini digital servo
.130 cable to 3/16 shaft stepped down to 1/8
Rudder, strut.
Borrow the battery from the renegade for now,

All I need is the coupler, but that is just a mouse ckick away.

peells
07-13-2008, 10:52 PM
It is here (I am the paint shop) and it is in work

Avanti
07-14-2008, 01:24 AM
good to hear I can't wait to see it. any hint as to what the scheme will be??

ace028
07-14-2008, 01:37 AM
not really sure, maybe some racing stripes or flames, but I don't want the paint to look the same as the renegade. I was thinking of a bright color, red or orange as a base color, it will probably start out black if I use a color change paint, as it needs a backing color. I'm open to ideas, what you think?

peells
07-14-2008, 08:36 AM
I think I will decide as I go some thing bold (but no capes) LOL

Avanti
07-14-2008, 09:05 AM
I always liked Miss Circus Circus http://www.angelfire.com/mb/powerboats/circus.html
also the pico energy boat http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lesliefield.com/images/miss_pico_1999_kelowna.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lesliefield.com/races/1999_budweiser_thunderfest_kelowna.htm&h=337&w=450&sz=47&hl=en&start=5&um=1&tbnid=AbZ2mYUBNT_GEM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=127&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmiss%2Bpico%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26clie nt%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN
http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/transportation/hydroplane/images/pins/pico.JPG
http://www.progcovers.com/hydro/pico96.jpg

ace028
07-20-2008, 08:48 PM
http://www.fastelectricrc.com/images/fast-electric-race-boats-ss453.jpg

I kind of like this color, what do you think?

Avanti
07-20-2008, 08:58 PM
very nice, you can't go wrong with any variant of red in my book