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View Full Version : New Motor and Maybe New ESC



dmwilson09
06-18-2011, 04:41 PM
Well.... Got my motor and esc back from traxxas today and to my suprise.... there is a new motor and maybe a new esc (looks the same). The motor is a new design, maybe 10 mm longer and feels like its better made just by turning the rotor. There is no longer a temp sensor on the motor any more either. Well check out the picture below, I will try an get a run in tomorrow!!!!

http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/dmwilson09/IMAG0049.jpg

roadrashracing
06-18-2011, 05:26 PM
If they do have new motors, I hope there is an exchange program

dmwilson09
06-18-2011, 07:49 PM
Well, I ended up being able to take her out today and i have to say i am impressed. The motor only got up to 124 and the esc was around 110. I dont think to boat will go 50 mph but it does seem like a reliable boat finally.

roadrashracing
06-18-2011, 08:20 PM
Any noticeable difference besides temps?

GeoVW72
06-19-2011, 12:01 AM
Thanks for the info dmwilson09 :thumbup1:
:glare: I doubt they changed the esc, that's why it's slow. I already tried a 4 pole (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showpost.php?p=323414&postcount=171), You have to watch when the prop unloads because the esc will cog out(cogging puts a large load on the esc, just let off if the prop goes airborne or the boat stutters) due to the limited drive frequency of the esc.

I thought everything was just fine the way it is :Shame_on_You:
Defeating their own safety feature also seems like a bad idea, the mount screws are still on the back of the can and that's the spot to get hot first.

Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ytEFWWo5PWU/Tfv8kFGVOWI/AAAAAAAAA-M/JF5w4rQM7XE/s400/IMG_20110617_163444.jpg
:spy: First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo :Peace_Sign:
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

mtnbiker94
06-19-2011, 12:13 AM
Hmmmmm, good to know! I've been running mine on 6s with the stock motor and esc and the only upgrades for cooling I have is the OSE cooling jacket, bigger lines, drilled out rudder pickup and a second pickup. The motor temps have been around ehh 140 and the ESC at 90 or so. Hopefully she won't die on me!






Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ytEFWWo5PWU/Tfv8kFGVOWI/AAAAAAAAA-M/JF5w4rQM7XE/s400/IMG_20110617_163444.jpg
:spy: First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo :Peace_Sign:
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

I didn't realize that that's why it was really overheating or that it was a problem? :confused1:

the5
06-19-2011, 08:58 AM
That looks like a lepord or castle motor. Pretty sure castle becuase the new Version of Castle Link has a Traxxas Marine in it.

dmwilson09
06-19-2011, 11:09 AM
Thanks for the info dmwilson09 :thumbup1:
:glare: I doubt they changed the esc, that's why it's slow. I already tried a 4 pole (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showpost.php?p=323414&postcount=171), You have to watch when the prop unloads because the esc will cog out(cogging puts a large load on the esc, just let off if the prop goes airborne or the boat stutters) due to the limited drive frequency of the esc.

I thought everything was just fine the way it is :Shame_on_You:
Defeating their own safety feature also seems like a bad idea, the mount screws are still on the back of the can and that's the spot to get hot first.

Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ytEFWWo5PWU/Tfv8kFGVOWI/AAAAAAAAA-M/JF5w4rQM7XE/s400/IMG_20110617_163444.jpg
:spy: First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo :Peace_Sign:
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

I think the re-design of this motor fixed a huge part of the Spartan's problem. For the average person who goes and picks one of these up now, I believe they are buying a pretty reliable boat.

Now about the drive line:

The last time I sent my motor and esc back, they sent me a new stuffing tube. Now i dont know if that was the fix, because it did look to be the same one, but I have yet to have any heat issue with my drive line. The brass is not even dis-colored. The only issue I have had with the drive line is having to re-grease it every run.

Brushless55
06-22-2011, 02:52 PM
That looks like a lepord or castle motor. Pretty sure castle becuase the new Version of Castle Link has a Traxxas Marine in it.

its from the Lepard family

spartanonfire
06-23-2011, 11:27 AM
I just got my new motor back and they sent a new ESC with it. (I had only sent the motor back to them as the ESC was fine) The response from them was for me to "not use the original ESC" as the tuning parameters were different with the new motor. Can't wait to try it out.

lincpimp
06-25-2011, 11:18 PM
its from the Lepard family

I got a "quasi confimation" from the pres of CC saying it is a 1420 1y 1492kv motor, so it is not a leopard.

Brushless55
06-25-2011, 11:43 PM
I got a "quasi confimation" from the pres of CC saying it is a 1420 1y 1492kv motor, so it is not a leopard.

:laugh::laugh::laugh:
without any Castle markings on this new motor I wont buy that for one minute
Leopard makes 1y motors and this is the length I think of a 4074 Leopard

slowride
06-26-2011, 07:29 AM
I blew out the ESC, sent it back and Traxxas, they sent me a new ESC and Motor plus gave me two new batteries. Thank you Traxxas. Upon installing the new parts I discovered the flex shaft and brass tube melted and will have to be replaced so im still in dry dock.

roadrashracing
06-26-2011, 09:05 AM
Is the dia. of the new motor the same as the old motor? I got an aftermarket cooling jacket and I want it to fit a new motor if I where to send mine in.

slowride
06-26-2011, 09:12 AM
Yes the same dia. but a little bit longer so the jacket should fit fine

Brushless55
06-26-2011, 09:57 AM
With all these replacements, I wonder how much traxxas has lost because of this boat?

djmaincheese
06-26-2011, 01:25 PM
Saw this post to a thread thread on RC-Monster

Yesterday, 11:19 PM

"Officially I can't confirm nor deny the existence of this motor"

Patrick del Castillo
President, Principle Engineer
Castle Creations


I just hope that Traxxas have pulled all the old motors and esc's and replaced everything with the newer updated version before they ship the new batch to Tower.
I have a red one on order:banana:

Brushless55
06-27-2011, 12:10 AM
yep like I said I will not believe who has built this motor till the name is on the can
cuz its all just speculation at this tiime :spy:

Shaun78
06-27-2011, 07:52 PM
THIS IS WHAT TRAXXAS SENT TO ME IN MY EMAIL ABOUT THE NEW/OLD MOTORS.

The motor and ESC are being replaced as a set. Please use this set of parts. The ESC will need to be calibrated. Thank you for chooseing Traxxas.
Please do not use the old motor with this ESC. It will rotate wrong.

Brushless55
06-27-2011, 07:57 PM
THIS IS WHAT TRAXXAS SENT TO ME IN MY EMAIL ABOUT THE NEW/OLD MOTORS.

The motor and ESC are being replaced as a set. Please use this set of parts. The ESC will need to be calibrated. Thank you for chooseing Traxxas.
Please do not use the old motor with this ESC. It will rotate wrong.

I think this is all over the web......
and the part about the motor will rotate wrong :confused1:
I wonder if they know you can switch wires around to spin left or right :laugh:
and you need to calibrate the esc?? :tape:

Checkmateguy01
06-28-2011, 07:38 AM
This is probably a dumb question, and dumb idea too, but does anybody have a clue as to what the new motor/esc might cost if you were to buy them outright? I've got around 20 runs on my stock Spartan so far, all on NIMH's, and it's still running fine, but if the new motor is any better or possibly faster i'd like to have one right now instead of having to wait till the stock set-up blows and ending up with alot of down time waiting for the warrenty parts to come in. If i had a new motor waiting in the wings, and blow the old stock motor, i could send in the old one and get another new motor that could go into another hull, if that makes any sense...

dag-nabit
06-28-2011, 08:41 AM
According to the Traxxas website, the OLD motor was around $200, and the ESC was about $275. Prices might be better at your LHS or on line. I would guess the new components will be similar in price.

But if you are going to pay to upgrade, you can probably do it cheaper choosing one of the aftermarket combos others have already done successfully.

Kevin

Brushless55
06-28-2011, 08:58 AM
This is probably a dumb question, and dumb idea too, but does anybody have a clue as to what the new motor/esc might cost if you were to buy them outright? I've got around 20 runs on my stock Spartan so far, all on NIMH's, and it's still running fine, but if the new motor is any better or possibly faster i'd like to have one right now instead of having to wait till the stock set-up blows and ending up with alot of down time waiting for the warrenty parts to come in. If i had a new motor waiting in the wings, and blow the old stock motor, i could send in the old one and get another new motor that could go into another hull, if that makes any sense...

I would not wast your money on traxxas labeled products.. go with Leopard and Turnigy and save a ton of money for the same if not better components

Checkmateguy01
06-28-2011, 03:54 PM
I would not wast your money on traxxas labeled products.. go with Leopard and Turnigy and save a ton of money for the same if not better components

Good point, i was just thinking in terms of warrenty.

GeoVW72
06-28-2011, 08:03 PM
I think the re-design of this motor fixed a huge part of the Spartan's problem. For the average person who goes and picks one of these up now, I believe they are buying a pretty reliable boat.

Now about the drive line:

The last time I sent my motor and esc back, they sent me a new stuffing tube. Now i dont know if that was the fix, because it did look to be the same one, but I have yet to have any heat issue with my drive line. The brass is not even dis-colored. The only issue I have had with the drive line is having to re-grease it every run.

The motor was a good part of the longevity issue, however what's spinning is also as big an issue. I think that the stuffing tube was changed because some early batches had bad teflon liners, comes as one part so they just replaced it.

Shaun78: got the same e-mail, but without the reverse rotation comment
BL55: more than likely some typo on the rotation, you have to calibrate the esc to the radio not matter what one it is.

I seem to recall the same assumption being made about Castle and Leopard motors comming out of the same plant (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?22957-Leopard-not-the-OEM-for-Castle&highlight=) :glare:
Castle may have given some input as to what motor type to use and how to set-up traxxas's esc, but I don't think much beyond that given the possibility of their version.

Checkmate: just contact traxxas, more than likely they'll just send you the new system. It being "better" is something I have yet to find out.

Got confirmation that my warranty parts were processed to shipping, but nothing beyond that.

One thing that I find interesting in all this is the lack of updates to the manual. :sneaky2:
It hasn't updated to reflect the esc change or become available in print from suppliers yet.

:Peace_Sign: