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properchopper
05-22-2011, 03:59 PM
When I rigged my Insane 34" Mono, I pinned the front of the hatch. After a while I thought I'd do the rear. I bought a pair of small spring loaded locks, but to keep water from coming in these was not easily done. With a few parts laying around, [ screw anchor, 10-24 bolt, screw protector, cut-in-half grommet for seal] I made these : Simple, cheap, easy to use :thumbup1:

martin
05-22-2011, 04:21 PM
I use a very simular system as that as well,But where your insert nuts are i have a bolt coming up from inside the lip with a nut screwed on to hold the vertical bolt. I then cut a piece of silicon tube of required length that is a tight fit on the bolt & slid it on. The vertical bolt passes through the hole in the hatch as yours does with a knurled nut tightened down on the top of the hatch. when its tightened down it squashes the hatch against the silicon tube. Its 100% water proof. Martin

ray schrauwen
05-22-2011, 04:22 PM
Very cool, thanks.

properchopper
05-22-2011, 04:51 PM
I use a very simular system as that as well,But where your insert nuts are i have a bolt coming up from inside the lip with a nut screwed on to hold the vertical bolt. I then cut a piece of silicon tube of required length that is a tight fit on the bolt & slid it on. The vertical bolt passes through the hole in the hatch as yours does with a knurled nut tightened down on the top of the hatch. when its tightened down it squashes the hatch against the silicon tube. Its 100% water proof. Martin

Martin, I thought of a variation of that : having the screw anchor protrude through the hatch with a knob/bolt holding it down. There's more than one way to skin a cat (er mono) :Peace_Sign:

martin
05-22-2011, 05:44 PM
I find that on the small boats (15") im restricted on size & area that i have on everything so a 3mm nut & bolt coming up through the lip is a bit easier getting it in in restricted areas due to the very small sizes. Martin.

ray schrauwen
05-22-2011, 06:11 PM
I use a very simular system as that as well,But where your insert nuts are i have a bolt coming up from inside the lip with a nut screwed on to hold the vertical bolt. I then cut a piece of silicon tube of required length that is a tight fit on the bolt & slid it on. The vertical bolt passes through the hole in the hatch as yours does with a knurled nut tightened down on the top of the hatch. when its tightened down it squashes the hatch against the silicon tube. Its 100% water proof. Martin

I think I'm going to do this on my boats. Inexpensive too!!

martin
05-22-2011, 06:48 PM
I also find when you put tape around the hatch on a curved front hatch that 1" or even .75" wide tape dosnt go round & sit flat very well. If you use 1/2" or 5/8" wide tape it stretches nice around curved hatches sitting flat. If i cant find the width tape i want i simply cut a complete roll to the width i want. Martin.

ray schrauwen
05-22-2011, 06:57 PM
I'm getting sick of taping hatches actually...

martin
05-22-2011, 07:24 PM
Dont know about you guys but i like to have positive fixings front & rear on hatches & not just tape. It amazes me when some one has a high speed crash & wonders why the hatch comes of & says well i had the hatch taped down.

ron1950
05-23-2011, 07:49 PM
nice tip tony thanks

Jabbo
05-23-2011, 10:24 PM
Just put something similar on my pursuit

Superdave
07-04-2011, 05:24 PM
Jabbo, how did you secure the screw in place? I want to do this to my Pursuit as well!

properchopper
07-04-2011, 06:39 PM
I use a very simular system as that as well,But where your insert nuts are i have a bolt coming up from inside the lip with a nut screwed on to hold the vertical bolt. I then cut a piece of silicon tube of required length that is a tight fit on the bolt & slid it on. The vertical bolt passes through the hole in the hatch as yours does with a knurled nut tightened down on the top of the hatch. when its tightened down it squashes the hatch against the silicon tube. Its 100% water proof. Martin

The more I think about it, the more I like your way of doing it. The squished silicone seal makes a lot of sense.Either way, those bolt thingies or knurled nuts have a habit of hiding or roling into the unknown. My bolts are stainless, otherwise I'd just put a magnet under the hatch to trap them on top once dis-attached. I'll try the magnet thing next build when I use your idea if I use ferrous nuts.

Jabbo
07-04-2011, 08:15 PM
I drilled and taped a piece of 1/8 thick 3/4 wide aluminum loctite the screws in that then siliconed the aluminum bar to the inside of the boat.

Jabbo
07-04-2011, 09:35 PM
Tony to help me from losing small parts such as hatch screws I attached small tins to my boat stands it works great.

martin
07-05-2011, 06:21 AM
Jabbo, how did you secure the screw in place? I want to do this to my Pursuit as well!
Simply put a nut on the bolt to secure, Then slide a piece of silicon water tube on the bolt so that the hatch compresses the tube when tightened down. Dead simple. Martin.

properchopper
07-05-2011, 10:44 AM
Tony to help me from losing small parts such as hatch screws I attached small tins to my boat stands it works great.

Good idea; I'll try that :thumbup1:

Superdave
07-05-2011, 10:18 PM
Went with Martins idea, works great.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/davehoare/th_Studs.jpg (http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/davehoare/?action=view&current=Studs.jpg)
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/davehoare/th_LidOn.jpg (http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/davehoare/?action=view&current=LidOn.jpg)