First Sv

[Ron B]

Hey guys, been int r/c pancars for a while but our track closed down. Have built a few boats over the past years, but they were all nitro. After reading alittle I bought a SV because I like the Idea of a spec class with driver experience being the majoroty determining factor. First off (after reading here) I pulled all the hardware and siliconed everything. I then sealed the hatch. First run it porpoised like a dolphin from sea world. After adjusting the trim tabs it smoothed out fine. Besides the prop, what are you guys doing to go faster (staying in the limits for the stock class)?

[Rex R]

remove the front portion of the battery trays, add more velcro(about 3" per side), run the packs about 2-3" forward of the stock location(assuming NiMh cells). if the trim tabs are hanging below the hull (leading edge), adjust the holes in the tabs(not the hull) untill they are mounted correctly. tabs should be neutral* ditto the strut. check that the stuffing tube is not binding the cable(or loose) adjust/glue as needed. lube the shaft every three runs and leave one(1) shaft dia. gap between drive dog and the strut.
*if the boat is rocking side to side at speed, try bending the left/port tab down about 1/16" hth
rex

[SweetAccord]

Rex R, great info! I agree with it all. Question: If someone was to run Lipo's where is the ideal spot? The stock battery locations?

[Avanti]

I have not done any work to it lately but check out my older thread
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=1956
more to come soon

[Rex R]

well since I haven't tried lipos in the sv yet I can't say...other than where ever it takes to balance the boat*. I would agree check the other threads for specific info on where it should balance(iirc approx 8" from the transom)
*this of course will vary depending on size(mah) and how many packs(1p or 2p)

[Ron B]

Thanks rex, the tabs were actually about 1/8 above the bottom of the hull. I had to auger out the tabs and lower them to get them even. I did noitce the stuffing tube was a tad off and the drive line was rubbing on the port side of the opening of the tube. I was going to flare the tube opening so it wouldnt gouge it but didnt know if this mod. would be leagal in the stock SV class, or moving the motor over a 1/8 in. Also, can iI add a auto bailer or is it not allowed?

[Rex R]

moving the motor would be considered (imo) a performance enhancement, also a royal pita. its the stuffing tube that is the problem. odds are that it needs a small rotation. the manual does a fair job of describing how to pull the radio box. they were not over generous when they glued things together. so you'll prolly find that the tube either is loose or comes loose readily. if when you have it loose, adjust the alignmentusing the flex as a guide and when you reglue it leave the flex in the coupler to hold the tube in position while the epoxy cures*. reverse the steps you took to gain access and reassemble the boat
*don't forget to check the cooling system for leaks

[Ron B]

Ive already had the box out when i seaeled up the hardware because all the bolt plates fell off and my fingers didnt have the room to get in there with it in. I pressure tested the colling sys. with a big syringe and only had 1 leak at the motor cooler which I fixed. Was the autobailer alowwed in stock class? Im really suprised at this being this fast as it is my first elec. I am in the middle of building a .21 outrigger and now i think I might convert it to elec. now .

[Ron B]

Well I pulled everything out and the tube was loose and rotated like you said. straightened it up and epoxied everything back in place and went ahead and sealed all the wood too. Mounted the antenna on the transom and sealed the old hole. Will test it out after everything dries.

[Rex R]

epoxy* will stay stuck to the hull/hatch better if you wipe down those areas to be glued w/ acetone 1st. haven't moved my antenna yet though I did remove the hatch latch(allowed in the stock class). please keep us informed. some of us have to wait another couple of months(minimum) for the water to soften up ;).
*also self stick velcro

[Ron B]

Didnt get off work till after dark today so I couldnt run it. Would have benn nice though, it was 77 here today. This is the last boat I built.

[SweetAccord]

Nice!! That is one big SupreVee!! Heheheee

[Ron B]

Yup! Hard to find big enough servos though. lol. Ordered the plans from Glen-L, Im gonna build one of the inboards next.

[Ron B]

Well, I ran my SV today and im happy to say, No Water this time! Now if my new batteris will come in I,ll be all set.

[Rex R]

dry is good ;) hows the speed holding up?

[Ron B]

Well, tried it out with some new batteries and she did pretty well. Now to fine tune it. (still no water )

[CarolHazlett]

I use lipo's in my SV. I took the battery trays that come installed in the SV out and lined both sides of the bottom with velcro. Mark your CG on the velcro and mark the center point of your lipo on the battery, then you can put your battery right on the CG every time and have a good reference point for moving your batteries to trim the boat for different water conditions. The CG for on SV is approx 7 1/2 to 8 inches from the transom. I actually balance my boats on a piece of triangle stock without batteries in them to find the real and true CG of each boat. You have to make sure you have all the other gear in the boat that it will have when you run it, including hatches and tape.