Custom Self Oiling Drive Shaft!!!

[Donnyg37]

Hey Guys im working on making a self oiling drive shaft so that we dont have to take our boats apart every 2 runs to oil them. The basic idea is to tap into the brass tubbing and put 2 nipples threaded in and have fuel line running off them and at the end of the lines blocked off by something still working on that. But what you would do is after your 2 runs bring it in shore take the 2 block offs off the fuel line and then connect the lines to a oil hand pump filled with whatever oil or grease you use pump a couple times and remove the lines block them back off and your ready to go again im still designing this and trying to make it as light as possible and get it to work. Once im done developing this i will post pictures and if anyone if interested in one let me know i dont have a price yet cause i have not figured out everything i need to make it work, But this will safe alot of time and equal more fun!

Thanks, Donny

[Jeff Wohlt]

I just do not think oil is the key. There are many version I have seen but grease is what keeps the flex cooler and better lubed.

Maybe a sealed unit so it stays filled but what about pressures? The cable acts as a pump with the windings.

[FighterCat57]

Kinda like this;

http://www.arrowshark.com/gallery/oilcup.jpg

A shaft oiler, they have them in 1/4" drive gas boats.
http://www.arrowshark.com/driver%20system.php

[Donnyg37]

Well thats what im working on cause the oil traxxas gives you sucks i use speed grease so im trying to figure out a way to shoot grease in i guess i should have said grease and not oil lol

[FighterCat57]

Well thats what im working on cause the oil traxxas gives you sucks i use speed grease so im trying to figure out a way to shoot grease in i guess i should have said grease and not oil lol

I'm curious what you come up with. I'm thinking that a "nipple" of some sorts that allows the grease to get pumped into the shaft would be great. Just haven't come up with anything yet.

Could cut away a bit of the liner and solder a grease nipple to the brass and then just hook up and fill.

Kind of the same way cars have grease nipples for ball joints. Just fill & go without removing the joint.

[Brushless55]

yeah, a greese zerk would work
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww39/filmmaker2009/auto-part-m8x1-25-straight-grease-zerk.jpg

[Jeff Wohlt]

A zerk put on to another tube and reduce down and then brazed to the stuffing tube inside may be an answer.

How tight of seal do you want on the flex at the coupler? Too tight and you just intro resistance on the cable...too lose and you get nothing but up at the coupler end. Something at the bend coming into the hull would be the best option. Then it moves to the strut and then up the stuffing tube to the coupler end....almost has to go like that to work.

[dag-nabit]

You could solder a Y of brass tubing onto the stuffing tube, drill through the stuffing tube, then install a grease zerk on the Y.

Two problems,

1. no way to ensure the grease is reaching the entire length of the flex shaft unless you pump enough grease it is coming out both ends.
2. no grease on the stub shaft and strut bushing.

For the 2-3 minutes it takes to release the collet, pull and wipe the flex cable clean, re-grease and re-install, I think old school is fine.

Besides, when you pull the flex cable you get an opportunity to give it a quick visual check over.

Everyone has different needs/wants, and a "remote" grease system could be the ticket for someone who races or does a lot of runs in a day.

We only have 2 sets of packs for each boat, so after two runs, doing some drive line maintenance while batteries are charging is not a big deal for us.

Kevin

EDIT: I see Jeff and I were thinking along the same lines. Didn't mean to post over you Jeff, I was typing while you were posting.

[Brushless55]

You could solder a Y of brass tubing onto the stuffing tube, drill through the stuffing tube, then install a grease zerk on the Y.

Two problems,

1. no way to ensure the grease is reaching the entire length of the flex shaft unless you pump enough grease it is coming out both ends.
2. no grease on the stub shaft and strut bushing.

For the 2-3 minutes it takes to release the collet, pull and wipe the flex cable clean, re-grease and re-install, I think old school is fine.

Besides, when you pull the flex cable you get an opportunity to give it a quick visual check over.

Everyone has different needs/wants, and a "remote" grease system could be the ticket for someone who races or does a lot of runs in a day.

We only have 2 sets of packs for each boat, so after two runs, doing some drive line maintenance while batteries are charging is not a big deal for us.

Kevin

EDIT: I see Jeff and I were thinking along the same lines. Didn't mean to post over you Jeff, I was typing while you were posting.

Bingo, and even racing you would want to check the prop shaft after every other run or so :thumbup1:

[roadrashracing]

A rubber gromite in the space by the strut will keep the grease in, I don't know why traxxas gives you 20 wt shock fluid:ThumbsDown01:

[Brushless55]

A rubber gromite in the space by the strut will keep the grease in, I don't know why traxxas gives you 20 wt shock fluid :ThumbsDown01:

:iagree: