Miss Geico Lets see what this thing can do!

[JPriami]

Got my brand spanking new miss geico today. Damn this thing is sweet looking!
Took the stock motor and esc out soon as i got off work. Didn't even power that up. It won't do what I will need it to do.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/MissGeico/956bd61c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/MissGeico/9aa82c64.jpg

Let's stuff off huge motor number 1 in there and see if the beast fits because it's just a couple mm bigger than motor number 2 I might be running.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/MissGeico/4db12621.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/MissGeico/c48e4506.jpg

Well I think i can use the stock motor mount. I will add a support brace to help hold the back of the motor since it's so big.
I will need one of those great epoxy hatches because the Tupperware lid won't fit now. Kind of figured that.
Need to do a little modification to the rudder bracket too.
I've got a list of things I plan on doing for this little rocket ship. it's going to be lots of fun.

Justin

[JackBlack26]

Why do you feel the need to modify the rudder bracket? Don't buy in to that hype cause that's all it is.

Definitely add support or the wood will come loose and disaster will strike. What size and kv motor is that?

If you're going for big plans then you might as well gut the wood out and get a real motor mount and drop the battery trays dorn so you can run 4S, 2P for some real power!

An empty hull makes things much easier. ;)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/rlopez75/DSC01202.jpg

[JPriami]

Might have to replace the wood and drop a real mount in her if it is a known problem thanks for the heads up.

I'm not running 4S (14.8) setup in mine.
I'm going for 5S & 6S on bigger motors that can swing a bigger prop. Hence why I say about doing some work on that rudder bracket. Larger props might not clear it that well. I haven't tried to set larger prop on it yet. I will get a little more familiar with it tonight.

[JPriami]

Actually other than the motor mount the wood might come in very useful for all the stuff I've got to get in here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/bcc9d542.jpg

[JackBlack26]

I don't know how big of a prop you're planning on running but the largest I run right now is an x445. What I do is just drop the strut so the bracket barely clears the prop. When I go back to a smaller prop I raise the strut so it sits as level with the ride pads as possible, usually with a x442 or 42x55 which is what I run. I just bought a carbon 47mm prop that I plan on running on my next outing with the MG. The 1800kv castle outrunner has no problem swinging a large prop considering it can swing large 500mm heli size blades.

That looks good though!! You're going to love the boat. Just make sure you set your batteries up right. Do not hang them off the back of the tray or it will bounce. 9" is center of gravity and you need to move forward, not backwards, specially with larger motors. With more speed you need to run the batteries as far forward as possible of the boat will flip backwards. This is all from experience with this boat. I love mine and I love pushing it's limits!!

[JPriami]

I hear ya on the battery placements. And thanks for the COG info. I was looking at that when setting stuff in there getting an idea of layouts. I plan on this boat doing well over 60mph so I will need to have it setup and balanced to keep her on the water. My other cat does 62 but its a little longer & a twin.

I will have 2 motor options going on. Just seeing what one I will use. The one in there is a Castle 1520 1600Kv the other will be a Castle 1518 1800Kv I have a box of props and another one on the way I will sharpen, balance & polish to try too. The largest prop I may try will be 46mm. But I will be running data logs on the boat as I step it up each time to see what she will or wont handle respectively.
I am going to add a 2nd water pickup so the esc and motor are separate systems.
Im going to coat the wood and where it joins to the glass with 20min epoxy tonight. This should help keep it strong for a good while. Ive thought about drilling a couple holes in the motor mount wood and filling it with epoxy to keep that as the front mount for the motor. Then making a clamping ring to mount on the back and have it joined to the fiberglass floor of the boat to support the motor. Still kicking that idea around though.

[JackBlack26]

Motor support for the 1520 is a good idea. The epoxy should do the trick. The thing I found with mine is that the epoxy they use cane apart from the wood because the wood is sealed and did not soak in to it for a secure bond. If you decide to epoxy it, sand the wood with a rough dremil sanding drum or even scuff if with a cut off wheel to make sure the epoxy has seonething to grab on to. You shouldn't need glass if you take the time to prep both the wood and the hull. Epoxy alone should do it.

The boat should do well over 60 with the 1800 on 6s and the right prop. Good thing is you have a data logger. I don't even have a GPS yet. Ether motor will push the boat without any issues. I ran my 1800 outrunner on 6s and it seemed faster than the 2650 on 4s and obviously drew less amperage and kept the caps cooler. RPM wise, they are about the same. The boat will be a handful until you get your setup right, so be careful. But she sure like speed once set up right!!:rockon2:

[tiqueman]

Looking good Justin. Cant wait to see vids of it.

[JPriami]

might get my gopro hd by the time i get done with this so that should be fun & nice vids

[ron1950]

we need vids man!!! vids!!!! looks fast just sitting there lol

[JPriami]

Heck yeah Ron I know your right. Soon as I pulled this thing out of the box I was like hell yeah! its going to look sweet out on the water

[TheShaughnessy]

46 mm prop shouldn't be much of an issue. Maybe a light modification if you want any positive trim.

I'm running an m445 and can hit the strut if trimmed to high but with my powerplant and that prop positive trim wasn't something i needed.

I would imagine that more motor and prop would do a better job keeping the bow down without any positive trim. As for COG... BJ has that number pretty dialed and i run my bats in that same general area.

If you really think the strut needs some grinding have at it, but i'd try seeing what you can get on there and at what angle before tearing into brand new hardware.

[JPriami]

Well I wasnt sure if I was going to grind the strut brace or move the whole bracket up a little. it sits low on the back of the transom area where it mounts. Maybe to keep more rudder in the water? Is my guess. But it has room to go up from looking at the outside of the hull and that would allow more distance between the brace and the prop without cutting the brace. BUT you might have 2 little lower holes to fill in the fiberglass. But that could be touched up.
IDK I didnt look real close inside at the back of the rudder/strut mount to see if that would be easy or hard.
probably hard since no one else is doing it lol.

[JPriami]

Got the wood nice and epoxy coated.
Then started getting stuff actually installed.
Added floatation too. Making a brace out of plexiglass to go on front of motor to support it's weight with a little metal strap that will go over the top to hold it in place in the event of a crash.
Also a shelf on the side to hold the eagle tree LCD display.
Waiting on my second water pickup to come I'll mount that off the side of the strut/rudder brace perhaps.
Still more to do. Need to trim motor shaft too. Hope I can get her wet the first time this weekend.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/bdd74325.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/b0ee8fd8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a8be49e2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/2a3e8209.jpg

[wilsta67]

dont forget to add floatation to your hatch. there as rare as hens teeth!

[JPriami]

Yes sir. Got that planned too ;)

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/97308c12.jpg

[tiqueman]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/97308c12.jpg

Smart :thumbup:

[JPriami]

I'm still going to want that one from you too ;)

I have me doubts this will hold up. So I want a backup

[tiqueman]

Im getting there. I got held up on an irrigation project today and didnt get to lay one up as I had planned.

[JPriami]

Im in no big hurry. maybe by this coming friday would be cool.

I was going to add another water pickup off the side of the rudder bracket. But I am not liking how the pickup tube looks like it will interfere with water flow and the prop. I didnt like it in front of the prop or behind it.

So now more work ahead of me. Im going to add in hull water pick ups to each side of the rear sponsons.
Its going to be a long night

[tiqueman]

In hull is the way to go. And keeps the transom nice and clean.

[johnf]

Hey Scott, pm me what you are charging for these hatches again. I can't remember.

[tiqueman]

For you, thousand dollars. Plus tax. :tongue_smilie:

[ron1950]

y think some of the stock hatches were just thinner then others? man i cant tell ya how many blowovers ive had and not broken mine yet.... someone bring me some wood to knock on

[johnf]

I just may bite if you throw in some build labor for my exotic import. Hehe

[tiqueman]

y think some of the stock hatches were just thinner then others? man i cant tell ya how many blowovers ive had and not broken mine yet.... someone bring me some wood to knock on

Oh man, you screwed yourself.


I just may bite if you throw in some build labor for my exotic import. Hehe

LOL, read your PM.... :buttrock:

[johnf]

LOL, read your PM.... :buttrock:

:thumbup:

[ron1950]

did we just talk about that labor stuff?? lol

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/8ab1210d.jpg

Got my in hull pickups in tonight. I used 2 of the duals for this. I don't like how the singles don't move much water so I figure each dual Y'ed into one line each for 2 lines, will get better flow.

I also took the stock cooling line hole and put a grommet in there with a aluminum plug. So now you pop the plug out and if there is any water in the boat you can drain it a little easier.

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/4689158b.jpg

[ron1950]

i smell video!!!!!! when is the premire?

[Brushless55]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/8ab1210d.jpg

Got my in hull pickups in tonight. I used 2 of the duals for this. I don't like how the singles don't move much water so I figure each dual Y'ed into one line each for 2 lines, will get better flow.

I also took the stock cooling line hole and put a grommet in there with a aluminum plug. So now you pop the plug out and if there is any water in the boat you can drain it a little easier.

awesome idea bro, great way to get the last bit of water out
I'm doing that on my PT SS45 :beerchug:

[pyroM!KE]

If your going to run 6s with that esc be sure to use a smaller prop..Mine runs warm on 5s with bec disabled with a x642..It runs about 100-105 in 50deg water..

[jac4412]

Mike at 100 degrees that's perfect. Remember a normal ESC like the T180 are running perfectly at 100... Higher end ESCs can get up to 130. Keep in mind that typically electronics run best slighty warm

[pyroM!KE]

Mike at 100 degrees that's perfect. Remember a normal ESC like the T180 are running perfectly at 100... Higher end ESCs can get up to 130. Keep in mind that typically electronics run best slighty warm

True but Im talking about 5s..Hes talking about running 6s..I wouldnt do it..Thats just me though..With a esc like a 180a, I would rather run a higher kv on 4 or 5s than push the esc all the way with 6s..
Just my 2 cents..:Peace_Sign:

[jac4412]

Oh absolutely true I was just stating if you thought that 5s at 100 degrees was pushing it... it's optimal. "running perfectly".

[JPriami]

I see where your coming from on the pushing an esc to max. I feel the same way about maxing things. But I've done it with a t-180 b4. I've run a 4082 1500kv leopard and a t-180 in a 37" mono on 6s with a m445 m645 and. Even a x646/3. And it's been doing the job flawlessly and temps were good.
I would get a swordfish esc that can handle more lipo cells so I'm not maxing the esc, but I just havent broke down to buy one yet.

I have bought a data logger last week so it's in this boat. I'll be monitoring watts, amps, voltage, two temps esc and motor, throttle position, rpms, speed, and a few other things. So the goal is start small on prop. Record data. Review data. Prop up each time if all looks good.

[JPriami]

Think I'm done at last. Other than dialing it in and running. Rainy and windy today so no dice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5de2782e.jpg

[JPriami]

Someone mentioned COG is about 9" As a good start. Is that from the back of the transom or the back of the sponsons?

[Rumdog]

Looks good. Not gonna offset the rudder?

[Rumdog]

I'd shorted up the motor leads on the esc too. She's packed tight, huh?

[JPriami]

Yeah it's a sardine can lol. I'm going to wait on shorting wires. I have another motor to try if this one dosent work out.

Made a grease catch out of a medicine bottle lol. I got tired of cleaning then grease ring in my other boats so I figured this might work

[JPriami]

Going to see how it goes before I look at offsetting rudder. I read diffrent things about it.

[Rumdog]

The 1518? That thing is a beast! I ran it on 5s2p in my 31" Rico and was getting 60 with a x548!

[JPriami]

Yeah. Right now i have a 1520 in there. The 1518 came today.
Can't wait to maiden this thing. I haven't even had it wet yet.

[JPriami]

Stuck inside today. So I sharpen, balance & polished the new prop for my collection.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/ac93b20e.jpg

[huse0054]

Hi JPriami, Looking awesome so far and can't wait for videos!!!

Did you fiberglass the outside or inside of the hatch? Were you happy with the results and do you think it will hold up? Any more pictures of the process?

Also, I am new to all of this and your prop looks awesome, I am looking at getting the same one but am torn between S/B one myself or buying one that is already S/B. Was it fairly easy to do? What would you recommend?

[JPriami]

I fiberglassed the inside of the canopy. Tape off the inside windsheild If your keeping it clear. Just rough the rest of the underside with sand paper and make some deep grooves so the resin has some nice rough surface to get ahold of. Lay out your fiberglass cloth and cut it bigger than the canopy. Cut an area out of it to allow for the windsheild. Clean the canopy where you sanded well with alcohol or another solvent. Mix your resin up. Brush some in the areas you plan on putting the fiberglass cloth on. Lay in in place push it in to areas with your brush then start laying more resin over the cloth. Try and keep air from getting underneath the cloth. It takes time and patience to get it all out and the cloth pushed into all the corners. You might have an easier time using Fiberglass mat instead of cloth. Once it's done and dry trim the excess cloth that is sticking out the sides of then canopy and where it's hard with resin you can take a dremel and sanding drum and smooth it out. You can also smooth out any roughness inside so you don't poke yourself later.

If you haven't done a prop b4 read up on it first. You will need a good balancer. I use sandpaper and files and do mine by hand.
Hope this helps.

Justin

[JPriami]

Tried today on one set of packs.

I got the wah wah's and wheelie stands. Lol.
Strut is level with bottom of sponsons and 0 angle on strut. Batteries half on the tray half off forward. I have flotation installed up front and cut it so there is support for the batteries to rest on.

[JPriami]

If the rudder in the prop wash is a problem then I can put another mount for the rudder off to the side.
But I hear mixed things about then wah wah and offsetting the rudder. Plus I was liking the equal turning in both directions from rudder being centered.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/98554587.jpg

This pic was just a test setup of what I plan to do. Its all held in place with double sided stick tape in this pic.

Btw I hit 52mph on the testing today. Wasn't even at full throttle boat kept wanting to nose up

[Rumdog]

The offset rudder will turn well in both directions. You're not leaning into a turn like with a mono. It will also help straight line stability, and help to hold speed through turns.

[TheShaughnessy]

The offset rudder will turn well in both directions. You're not leaning into a turn like with a mono. It will also help straight line stability, and help to hold speed through turns.

agree ^

as for your cog question, that is 9 inches from the rear.

[JPriami]

Just finished.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/2fbd0235.jpg

Also added 440 pushrod over the stocker.

[JackBlack26]

Someone mentioned COG is about 9" As a good start. Is that from the back of the transom or the back of the sponsons?

That is center of battery @ 9". The battery that far forward might cost you some MPH being that the boat will run really wet. What I did was mark 9" from the transom forward with a sharpie, them mark center on my LiPos and just line them up. From there, if necessary, move them forward to bring the front end down. I would suggest moving them forward 1/4" at a time. I run mine at 9 1/2"s to center of battery from the transom forward.

That rudder looks cool that way, but I would have left it in line. Find the CG of those batteries and it will smooth out and not want to pop wheelies, lol!

[JPriami]

I had the batteries really far forward today on the test run. And I have some good size packs. Two Hyperion G3 EX 3S 45C 5000mAh packs. plus the motor is a good bit of weight.
This is where they were when I first started, As you can see they are already past 9" forward. I moved then up about another 3/4-1" at the lake and it was still hopping. And if I were to hold the throttle at full it was going to blow over for sure.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5de2782e.jpg

[JPriami]

Here is a clip of the hiphop MG. Wish I had a camera man today. You would of seen it wheeling up many times. I was trying to go with the wind to reduce the chance of wind going against the boat to help blow it over.
Boat did stay dry as a bone inside I was happy with that.

OdP9ryRRWec
YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdP9ryRRWec)

52mph but no where near wide open saddly.

Eagle tree says im getting about 3000 watts out of the system. so this little 30" boat has 4HP!

[Brushless55]

Awesome, that little sucker is moving!!

[Rumdog]

That is center of battery @ 9". The battery that far forward might cost you some MPH being that the boat will run really wet. What I did was mark 9" from the transom forward with a sharpie, them mark center on my LiPos and just line them up. From there, if necessary, move them forward to bring the front end down. I would suggest moving them forward 1/4" at a time. I run mine at 9 1/2"s to center of battery from the transom forward.

That rudder looks cool that way, but I would have left it in line. Find the CG of those batteries and it will smooth out and not want to pop wheelies, lol!

CG is measured from the transom forward. There is no purpose measuring your cells. You need to find the proper cg for the boat to ride with a good attitude.

Also, the inline setup is very inefficient. No reason to keep it. It is disrupting the thrust cone, adding lift to the stren, especially in turns where you are just wasting energy by thrusting into the side of the blade.

JP, how deep is your strut?

[JPriami]

I have the center of the propshaft at the same level as the bottom of the ride pads.

I was going to test the boat with the new rudder setup today. But it doesn't look like I will be able to get to the lake.

[JackBlack26]

CG is measured from the transom forward. There is no purpose measuring your cells. You need to find the proper cg for the boat to ride with a good attitude.

Also, the inline setup is very inefficient. No reason to keep it. It is disrupting the thrust cone, adding lift to the stren, especially in turns where you are just wasting energy by thrusting into the side of the blade.

JP, how deep is your strut?

What you say may be true, but my setup works for me with Thr advise I gave and I have Jo bounce and no speed lost through turns at WOT. So, tomatoe, tomato.

[Rumdog]

Whether you notice or not, you are losing speed in the turns. Ask anyone who races cats if they run a inline strudder.

[jac4412]

Jack, it is impossible for you to not lose speed in a turn with the inline setup... The rudder is in direct interference with the natural cone of the prop. Whether or not it's a big difference is the issue but I can guarantee you you'll losing some speed.. hence why the larger counterparts typically have dual rudders or engines on the outside of the rudder... its not only more stability, its to maintain the speed through a course.

[tiqueman]

I noticed a HUGE difference while cornering during races when I went to the offset rudder. Running the boat by myself, I never realized how much it was actually slowing until I started racing it. I was blown away how much it slowed down. I did find, and posted somewhere... I think in the race set up thread, that offsetting it has nothing to do w/ getting rid of the bounce. Its all about finding the trim and balance. JackB already said that. Anyway, If I wasnt racing, I probably would have kept it inline just because I prefer the look.

[pyroM!KE]

I noticed a HUGE difference while cornering during races when I went to the offset rudder. Running the boat by myself, I never realized how much it was actually slowing until I started racing it. I was blown away how much it slowed down. I did find, and posted somewhere... I think in the race set up thread, that offsetting it has nothing to do w/ getting rid of the bounce. Its all about finding the trim and balance. JackB already said that. Anyway, If I wasnt racing, I probably would have kept it inline just because I prefer the look.

I wounder why I tuned my boat (or tried too) about 20 runs and never got the bounce out and then when I installed the kinetic offset bracket it instantly went away? Maybe its just me but I cant understand it when people say the bracket has noting to do with it because in my case it had a major difference..:confused2:
Heck Ive even tried to tune it to bounce and I cant with the bracket on..:roflol:

[JPriami]

Filled in my rudder inlet since it's not used now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/561e915a.jpg

Also took the rudder brace off and finished it up. Made an epoxy block on the inside of the transom where it mounts so it's more securely attached and solid to the boat/hull. Before I was pressed for time wanting to go run again I used an aluminum brace I cut and made. But wasn't 100% happy with how it held. Also sealed the bracket to the hull with rtv as I mounted it. Instead of the thin rubber pad I was going to use.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/69b66cee.jpg

[JPriami]

Still too windy here. It's nice weather sunny and warm. Just windy really bad. Maybe I need a sail boat.

[JackBlack26]

I noticed a HUGE difference while cornering during races when I went to the offset rudder. Running the boat by myself, I never realized how much it was actually slowing until I started racing it. I was blown away how much it slowed down. I did find, and posted somewhere... I think in the race set up thread, that offsetting it has nothing to do w/ getting rid of the bounce. Its all about finding the trim and balance. JackB already said that. Anyway, If I wasnt racing, I probably would have kept it inline just because I prefer the look.

Agreed, Scott. I never said mving the strut didn't work. I just said it wouldn't take the bounce away. If I were racing my boat I would look in to moving it but I don't personally like the way it looks. Loosing 1-2mph through a turn doesn't mean anything to me since I'm sport boating with friends. 1/2 the time one of u flips over anyways since were all obeyed powered!

So again, for me, my setup works just fine :)

[ron1950]

hows the hunt for decals comeing?

[JPriami]

I've got 4 with the girl and flags being made up(see last post with it superimposed on my boat) to see how it's going to go. They were supposed to be done today but they haven't finished them yet. I might get them Thursday or Friday.

[JPriami]

Got to run a little today after work. The offset rudder helps a bunch. I still need to play with the setup to keep the boat on the water. I have the COG way forward like 12" and the strut level all around. Still can't hold throttle down or she will blow over. I was able to get her up to 59.8 MPH today tho. Still has more than that locked away. Might try a hair negative strut angle or make a clear lexan air dam. Just kicking ideas around for now.

[wilsta67]

perhaps some lead weights in the front.

[ron1950]

where is the strut set at? tiegman is running his level and touching the top of the table when boat is sitting on table......may have to shave the cornner off the strut brace with a big prop

[JPriami]

My props won't ever hit the strut brace now. I've cut some length off it since I made a new offset rudder mount.
Might be able to see how much I cut off in this pic. the two bolts on the back of the brace have been relocated I drilled those holes out for them to mount there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/69b66cee.jpg

I have the strut dead level with the bottom of the hull. Center of prop shaft is at same level as bottom of ride pads. The angle is set at 0.

[JPriami]

Went ahead and glassed in the windshield too. It ended up being the weak spot like I feared. It got a very small crack in it the other day. So hopefully this saves it from getting worse.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/da83a173.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/7dc34298.jpg

[dana]

im curious about air damns on cats. ive thought about trying it with my MM.

[tiqueman]

im curious about air damns on cats. ive thought about trying it with my MM.

theres a few that have done it. Bonewar did a servo controled one on a Matrimo cat and I believe there is a fixt tunnel dam for the Toysport cat.

[Rumdog]

They work! I run one on my sprintcat and my Maritimo. A few inches (4 on my timo) back from the leading edge of the tunnel. About 3/16" tall is all, entire width of the tunnel.

[JPriami]

I have a sneaking suspicion that this part of the boat at high speed is acting like a wing of sorts and air pushing on that high angle is creating lift to the nose of the boat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/33ebd0fe.jpg

I've made places for my lipos to go way forward in the hull to add weight up front to help keep the nose down. And I wonder about making an air dam or clear lexan wing to stick on the front to add the necessary down force. Or just add negative angle on strut. But not fond of that idea just yet.

[JPriami]

Show some pics rumdog. If u don't mind.

[jac4412]

JP I just took a quick look at mine... you might be right... I didn't think of that before and it's sitting right there in front of us. But the key to fixing that of course is still proper balancing of the lipos and weight in the boat. Interesting but I'm sure that could be contributing to the hull hop.

[JPriami]

I'm going to try making a lower air dam first that will stick to the front lower part between the sponsons and see if that counter acts the lift. If that don't work then maybe a small clear angled lip on top that adds down force.

[JPriami]

Got to run one time today. First time with the packs way up front COG as balancing point on the boat was about 12.5 " hard to say exactly because its near the first step in the hull. Boats goes through the water at the lower speeds really well. But once you get going above 50 it starts picking the nose up. I then tried the temp test air dam I made that goes between the sponsons up front on the lower side of the hull. and that did help. it still had some bounce across the water at full throttle but it never blew over. Best recorded speed today was 58.6 MPH on a x642 prop.
Im going to try and make a wing to mount up front that adds down force to the nose. I am thinking I can make this out of a Mini revo vxl wing and use weather proof 3M stick tape to mount it between the sponsons right in front of the bow before it sweeps under the boat. if it doesnt work then I'll just have an extra wing for my mini revo vxl. if it does work then I can perhaps start moving my batteries back to be closer to the 30% COG mark of the hull.

[Brushless55]

where and how is your strut set?

[JPriami]

Level and level

[ron1950]

i beleave you are right about the lift under the hull as the air has to go faster over the bottom then the top so lower pressure...ran mine to day twice in rough water and flipped it several times still no prob with hatch...knock on wood

[Brushless55]

Level and level

Maybe 1 or 2* prop down :popcorn2:

[JPriami]

I tried a little negative angle and it still wants to pop up. But I had my COG further back like 10.5/11" at the time.

[JPriami]

Just roughing up another idea I had to add down force. This angle covers up the high angle below. But it might add too much. :confused1:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/f176788c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/f9423dad.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a4275b3f.jpg

[JPriami]

This was from today. I had to enhance the lighting to show up better because I went later in the day and it was getting close to dusk.
Eagle Tree data logged GPS 58.6 MPH on a x642
P81TZB_itKM
YouTube Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P81TZB_itKM)

[Brushless55]

man that sucker screams!

[maxmekker]

Sure is fast, I just have to get one soon. May I ask the stock motor, is it a 500 ore 600 size.

[Brushless01]

The stock motor i think is a 540 size.

[JPriami]

tried the strut with a little negative angle today with out the air dam. it helped. but seems like i slowed down a hair. tried 3 different props and best speed was 57.7 mph. the m645 was lifting the port side up too much. the x646/3 had the best speed and acceleration but was lifting the transom at high speed and causing a odd skip. the p225 did ok.
think i'd like to try out a wire drive in here and see how that goes.

[martin]

You need to stop air travelling further along the underside of the tunnel which is what the dam does by inerupting the flow. What you have is not stopping the air travelling along the hull. Its not just the front angled piece of the tunnel that gives lift. When you add a dam its a couple of inches back from the front so you still have the accute angle under the first 2" but this does not give lift with a dam fitted. Martin.

[JPriami]

The pics I've posted isnt what i have used yet. It was a rough idea in the earlier pic.
And yes that angle I have that make shift wing at will counter act any lift the hull has on the nose of the boat. Because it will add down force by grabbing air that would normally go under the hull and force it over it.
I have made some rough simulations in a airflow program too

[JPriami]

My other set of lipos came the other day. Happy to have another set. This time I got the nano tech 3S 45C 5000mAh.
Going to try out a wire drive setup hopefully this weekend. If that dosent work (worried about the angles) out I'll go back to the flex but get an upgraded one from steven here at OSE. My stock one is slightly deforming near the collet area and rubbing the wires in the strut portion pretty good.

I sanded the steps on the bottom of the hull to see the low & high spots. It's actually in not that bad of shape. But I plan on blue printing the bottom of the hull in the next couple weeks and repainting the whole boat back the same neon yellow color. Because I removed the gecko off the deck Sunday evening and it has stained the deck. I was able to lighten the stain but since I'm having custom deck decals made up I want it to all look good too. Might get a few other decals made up that I think would look good on it. Then clear over them all. I'm also getting one of those superb hatches made by Scott here on OSE.

[JPriami]

Got started on this part this evening.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/75d7ffc6.jpg

Still got another coat of mud to lay down and sharpen edges more. Hopefully the last one. Not tonight tho.

[tiqueman]

:popcorn2:

[Darin Jordan]

Still got another coat of mud to lay down and sharpen edges more. Hopefully the last one. Not tonight tho.


Nice work, Man... Looks just like mine did when I was doing it. Goes pretty quickly.

We actually were working with the supplier to try to improve the bottoms of these. Future offerings MIGHT have truer bottoms... Can't promise that, but it has been discussed with the supplier.

[Brushless55]

so does this help with cornering?

[Darin Jordan]

so does this help with cornering?

Does this boat need HELP cornering??? :confused2: :bounce:

[TheShaughnessy]

Nice work, Man... Looks just like mine did when I was doing it. Goes pretty quickly.

We actually were working with the supplier to try to improve the bottoms of these. Future offerings MIGHT have truer bottoms... Can't promise that, but it has been discussed with the supplier.

My buddy accidentally smashed into my rescue boat one day and dinged up the front of the boat a little bit. The rescue boat had a nice hole the size of a MG sponson in it and sank.:Sinking:

So now that he is going to be redoing his hull anyway I told him to true up the bottom, but then i looked at it and it was nice and flat, pretty sharp too. :rockon2:

Is this something that can happen over time as the hull flexes? He only had a couple runs on his but I have quite a bit on mine and mine had some low spots.

[Darin Jordan]

Is this something that can happen over time as the hull flexes? He only had a couple runs on his but I have quite a bit on mine and mine had some low spots.

Not likely... I suggested that the hulls weren't being left in the mold long enough to fully cure, so they pads would "shrink" after they were pulled from the mold. The sample boats we had were much flatter than the production versions, so this is a good indicator.

It might also be that we told them to try to get them flat/sharp, even if they had to do some filling after the molding process, so maybe they have started doing that.

Either way, it's NOT unusual to need to work on the bottom of a composite boat. Even the best quality glass will have some imperfections in it and variations out of the mold from layup to layup.

[JPriami]

Got my final layer of mud on and sanded. edges sharp and squared edges of steps nicely too. I decided to try something to add some durability to the filler and help keep the edges protected from damage I coated all the worked area with 20 min epoxy that should soak in nicely and add some strength. I'll sand back over that once it dries and check edges and small holes i used the epoxy as filler then prep for primer.

[tman52804]

Where'd you get those dual water pickups?

[JPriami]

Here at offshoreelectrics on the webpages under cooling.

[JPriami]

Just sprayed some primer on here. Let that dry then fine tune a few spots slightly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/0b6729fd.jpg

[Brushless55]

wow, looks good man! :bowdown:

[JPriami]

Thanks my friend, Been doing little here and there each night. I am not sure if I'll put finish paint on it before I test it out or not. Because I will be repainting the whole boat in the next couple weeks.

[ron1950]

wish i wasent so lazy....id do mine lol....

[JPriami]

Got the tape off today after work. Wanted to see if the lines bleed much. Going to fill few pin holes and lightly sand all the primer a bit tonight.
Was hoping to install my wire drive setup tonight but I didn't get it yet. Ordered it Monday night. i got my collet from ose today tho. Thanks steven for always being someone to count on to ship stuff out asap.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/e4138843.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/d5e5e1f1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/1b9c0e11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/6ce50452.jpg

[boaterkid333]

what brand primer did you use?

[JPriami]

Krylon indoor outdoor white primer.

[JackBlack26]

I did mine and they re as flat as yours, though they weren't too bad. I was able to fill them in with filler and not have to use bondo. There was very little low spot in there. Looking at it straight down from behind it's nice and even. I didn't do the corners though as I don't think handling on this boat can be improved even more. Just my feeling, of course.

Also, that white Krylon primer works great. Nice and easy to sand. Also goes on very thin so not much mess when sanding it.

[JPriami]

Earlier I installed noodles for flotation up front in the sponsons. Then ended up having to cut them in half to act as forward battery trays. Then I would add a cut peice of flotation on top of the batteries to keep them from moving around.
I wanted to hollow out a noodle to place the battery packs inside of it. But cutting it was kind of hard and keeping the shape all the way through.
Lucky me I found these slightly larger noodles with larger openings. I think this will be the ticket. I can cut them to length and install up front down to the battery trays. And I should be able to tuck my lipos snugly inside of them. Keeping them secure and safe from bouncing around up front in the sponsons.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/e5b670dd.jpg

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/ee7ee0c7.jpg

Whew. That was a tight squeeze.

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/22bc7575.jpg

Sprayed some white gloss on tonight. I might not be repainting the whole boat now. I have managed to get the gecko stain to fade out a little. Ive buffed it with some cutting compound and it seems to lighten when its out in the sun a while. So we will see how much it actually goes away (keep it out in the sun longer on the next nice day). if it doesnt then I'll paint the boat. But I am liking the white sponsons look.

I did get a short run in today with a temporary test .078 wire drive I had on hand. It wasnt perfect because it had a very slight wobble in the drive. But it didnt have good results. I am not sure if the angle in the stuffing tube or the rigidness in the wire drive but it seems to have some good tension on it when in the stuffing tube spinning it freely by hand. Anyways just making a few passes it it would lock up on me out in the water. I didnt even get through one set of packs and I had to call it quits and go back home to mow the lawn instead.
I am going to just order a upgraded cable from steven here and use that. and an octura collet.

Later today I found some rubber weather stripping thats about 1/4" thick with a self adhesive backing. I got some and decided I will try that as an air dam to see if thats a simple fix

[JPriami]

LA84SmxoJr4

I need to find the sweet spot for the batteries in this setup vs speed & stability. Also hope the air dam on the next run helps out.
Today's best recorded speed was 58.3Mph on a x642 prop

[ron1950]

carefull u will burn the paint off the bottom lol...where did u get the noodles? i need some

[Jeff Wohlt]

Your wire drive is on the way. I make everything...even for other dealers so it is not like I stock everything...wish I could but I am mostly a manufacturer. Most just sell stock. The spartans have also been a busy new product. Then I get all these custom requests that takes time but I try to make anything they want.

OSE sells my drives but he has no stock at this time.

You may not get big results from a wire...usually don't but they are smoother and less resistance.

I get orders from all over the world so most has to go in line.

[JPriami]

Thanks Jeff. I might still try the one from you when I get it. If not, I'm sure I will have a use for it at some point.

[JPriami]

Ron, I got those with the big holes to put my lipos in at the dollar store of all places. They were troublesome to get in there but boy they hold my packs snug and they dont move. Plus I like that they are protected from bouncing around. $3 for it. Wish they had yellow.

[TheShaughnessy]

Not the fastest one on the block, but hoping i can hold my own in LSO if that class gets going. Not sure what happened at the end, hoping it was LVC. Add chop and she is fast enough for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWJvI_ouvS8

[JPriami]

Looks like a nice job you did there. Runs really well too. Couple times it looked close to that wall lol. I was like whoa nooo dont smack it.

[ron1950]

[QUOTE=TheShaughnessy;314099]Not the fastest one on the block, but hoping i can hold my own in LSO if that class gets going. Not sure what happened at the end, hoping it was LVC. Add chop and she is fast enough for me.

what motor do u have in the boat shaughnessy? its hulling for sure////i think lso has to be a spec motor but not sure....

[jac4412]

What are you running in like two inches of water? Boat is running nice and smooth, looks like its a great setup! :thumbup1:

[JPriami]

Today was bitter sweet......

Bad new first?

after hitting a new personal record then running a little more I grabbed some air and the boat flipped.
Split the hull down the front and side where its joined together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/8c9ec743.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a376c365.jpg
I think the sticker held it together here.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/6bc47332.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/199fc432.jpg

One of the battery trays busted inside too.
Damage isnt too bad and I can fix it. Now I will have to repaint the boat. Oh well, I will be moving the water outlets to the back too so I can fill those holes now. I hate how they are close to the batteries how they were.
Plus I guess I'll add another layer of resin and cloth inside to give it more strength since im getting up there in speeds.

Good news...
I hit 63.2 MPH on the run before the crash.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/1a3df8b0-1.jpg
My 2nd temp sensor wont read on the PC for some reason but shows up in my LCD screen.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/dd99c321.jpg

[boaterkid333]

ouch thats a hard crash. what are you using to record top speed?

[JPriami]

GPS sensor on my eagle tree data logging system

[jac4412]

How was it running? Stable? I think I remember someone saying that over 60 this boat is going to have stability issues

[jac4412]

Was this a 6s run? 140 amps isn't bad at all

[JPriami]

Was running pretty good really. Still some bounce I was playing with COG to work out. thats when she flipped. I have a short video clip I am trying to upload now of the crash.

[JPriami]

Was this a 6s run? 140 amps isn't bad at all

Yes 6S runs. Thats all I am doing in this setup.

[jac4412]

Well besides the flip it really looks like you got a sweet system in there... really gets me excited about my own 4s! Good job

[JPriami]

The Smack down.
GXdfe3z0Xm4
YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXdfe3z0Xm4)

[jac4412]

Wow... if anything that's a testament on how well that boat is built... I think you caught it right on a seam when it hit... From the sound of it hitting the water I'm surprised it didn't blow apart

[JPriami]

Yeah I heard that and knew it wasnt going to be good. sent the resuce boat out to catch it and bring it back. Looked ok at first. then seen it all and was like well I'm done for the day.

[brian6989]

man that thing was hauling right before the crash

[TheShaughnessy]

[QUOTE=TheShaughnessy;314099]Not the fastest one on the block, but hoping i can hold my own in LSO if that class gets going. Not sure what happened at the end, hoping it was LVC. Add chop and she is fast enough for me.

what motor do u have in the boat shaughnessy? its hulling for sure////i think lso has to be a spec motor but not sure....

I have the ul1 motor in there so I'm good for spec, unless you read the rule book, but hopefully that will be updated soon.


What are you running in like two inches of water? Boat is running nice and smooth, looks like its a great setup!

it is pretty shallow in parts, the plus side is if i happen to flip i can just walk to the boat cause the water isn't deeper then 4 feet in most areas..


I was worried about that wall a couple times but it adds a little rush.

[ron1950]

wow that was really hulling j.....bad hit though....i know they are strong because i have hit every buoy in the lake flat out and it always comes back with just a scratch or two...

[JPriami]

Damages are a little worse than I thought. Found some fine spider cracks all over where it flexed in. Not sure about what I will do now. Hate to fix all that and re do some of my work on the steps because it damaged that are too now.
Might be better to get another hull. Idk.

[tiqueman]

Shaughnessy, I puckerd at 0:12.

Thats a bummer Justin. Id just re-work it. With as difficult as it is to find a blank hull, and for the price when you do.... Suddenly your times not that bad.

Heres a shot of a Geico vs a Sprint cat Aeromarine. I spun out in very choppy water going into a turn, the SC was not far behind me and didnt see me facing the wrong direction. As he went intot he turn, his left side rear caught my left front sponson. Heres the outcome.....

Vid, 15 seconds in. Sorry for the camera mans reaction...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyIwsfWcIag&feature=player_embedded#at=24

Oh and the Aeromarine is a Q-offshore boat running w/ LSO. So yes, he is a bit faster.

[Rumdog]

Bummer! The guy with the sprintcat needs to ditch that strudder!

[ron1950]

that light layup on bills boat really took its toll.....i just noticed that that whole conner is missing dam,,,,,

[ron1950]

u going to fix it or buy a new hull? i just put a ul1 motor into mine cant wait to see what it will do...dam wind wont let me get out there.....

[JPriami]

Yeah I'll fix her.

[Alloy]

Hi guys...is there maybe an setup that will get me into to 45-50mph zone on the awesome MG on 4s,also i have a grim 42x55 prop

[TheShaughnessy]

Hi guys...is there maybe an setup that will get me into to 45-50mph zone on the awesome MG on 4s,also i have a grim 42x55 prop

leopard 4074 2200kv and a 180 amp speedo. Should take you there and beyond.

[Brushless55]

even stock running good C rated lipos could do it on the 42x55 prop but I would try a X642 or even a X645 as that would do it fore sure :rockon2:

[TheShaughnessy]

even stock running good C rated lipos could do it on the 42x55 prop but I would try a X642 or even a X645 as that would do it fore sure :rockon2:

x645 de tounged. I got better speed with m445 over x645, pretty sure the tounge is slowing it down up top.

[Brushless55]

good to know, I should get me one of those M445 props

[Alloy]

the problem is im in SA so octura and leopard are out for me..bummer:doh: But i asume the cc 1515 on t 180 and 4s will do the same job???and maybe an 6s setup the t180 and cc1518 1y?thanks a lot:thumbup1:

[LiPo Power]

Here is my video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFzaMN9ctuM

[jac4412]

lipo what speeds were you getting

[TheShaughnessy]

lipo what speeds were you getting

i was getting 47 on sunday when i gps'd mine and i have the same electronics and prop. Front of batteries set even with the back of the motor, couldn't tell you how the strut is set, but it was more positive then it would be in a race. couple blow overs that day, wind didn't help though.

[JPriami]

Got some time to work on it again finally. I rejoined the hull where it split from front to back. Laid up an extra layer of fiberglass inside to add more strength. Fixed the busted out gelcoat on the outside the hull & cracks. Now it been primed and ready to paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/89b83770.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/d463277a.jpg

Going to paint it all bright white. Then leave the bottom white and spray the top fluorescent neon yellow. Put my decals on and clear the whole thing.

[yachtsystems]

Those water pickups look sweet, please let us know how they flow, I think I would like to copy your idea if you dont mind...

[JPriami]

They do the job. But not near the flow I thought it would have.

[JPriami]

Got the white sprayed yesterday, then some fluorescent yellow on top deck sprayed today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/9cedb232.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/43391b0e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/c2bccb61.jpg

[JPriami]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/7a2e8f15.jpg

[wilsta67]

looking good:buttrock:
have you put in a kintec Removable Replacement strut Bushing ? just wandering how this is done?
http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html

[JPriami]

I haven't replaced mine yet. I've been out of my FE hobby for a while. Just now having a little bit of time to pick back up.

Got my miss geico decals on order. Hope to get them soon.

[JPriami]

After all this work. The stupid clear coat is making parts of the canopy slightly milky and lighter! Oh the disapointment! Still look ok tho.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a4519d2a.jpg

[tiqueman]

That looks real nice. What kinda clear?

[JPriami]

I Just used spray cans to do all of this. Rustolem clear enamel. I was going to buy some automotive stuff to do it but times are tough and I'd rather put money in other projects.

when I get the other decals put on it will look a little better.

[tiqueman]

I've had that happen w those clears. Let it dry, scuff it in a week or so w 600 grit and grab urself a can of upol clear. Get it at a real auto paint shop. Its about $20.00 a can but it will gloss it up like mad. And its an aerosol so its ready to go.

[tiqueman]

O and I tried some of that hok chartreuse (sp) its way yellow

[JPriami]

well at least you got a try out of it to find out. I was going to order that for this repaint but like I said funds are tight lately. Lots of birthdays and other stuff going on too.

Thanks for the tip on the clear.
Hope you have been well.

[ron1950]

had same prob with rustoleum pain on a abs cowell for my tunnel......paint never did dry and crackled.....

[JPriami]

Today added some carbon fiber stripes. chrome striping. And silver around the windsheild also split it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/6eeb0143.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a0726aa3.jpg

[xkos]

nice:thumbup1:

[JPriami]

Got the rest of my decals on and cleared over. going to let it cure out a couple weeks because its on thick.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/9c9d7ff0.jpg

[Piranha22]

That is one sexy Miss Geico. ;) Very nice work!

[JPriami]

Thank you. After the paint cures im going to run my other castle motor this go around.

[bbosncali]

Which one the 1518? Great motor love mine but same as you too many other projects so haven't got to play with my mg much lately

[Brushless55]

I've had that happen w those clears. Let it dry, scuff it in a week or so w 600 grit and grab urself a can of upol clear. Get it at a real auto paint shop. Its about $20.00 a can but it will gloss it up like mad. And its an aerosol so its ready to go.

I'm interested in that clear..
do you have a link to some?
thanks

[JPriami]

Which one the 1518? Great motor love mine but same as you too many other projects so haven't got to play with my mg much lately
Yes I still have a 1518 NIB and can I bought and haven't touched yet. Glad you tried it out first lol.

[bbosncali]

Yes I still have a 1518 NIB and can I bought and haven't touched yet. Glad you tried it out first lol.

Lol... I've only got to run it like twice and once was without the gps but still hit a best of 62.1 mph and I know it has a lot more with a few adjustments plus I haven't run it since I installed the wire drive. I've been to busy playing with my df with 1717 that's the motor I wanna see what it can do... by the way the boat looks great

[JPriami]

Thanks bro. What size wire drive did you get? I've got a new .078 one from jeff sitting down there I havent used.

[bbosncali]

Thanks bro. What size wire drive did you get? I've got a new .078 one from jeff sitting down there I havent used.

Same size from jeff I took it out for a quick trial run it seems like it takes a little longer to get going but once it does its like letting a wind up toy go.. and it just shoots... I figure its because I'm running such a big prop m645. I just ordered a wire from ben over at fightercat same size for my df I know ill get it in like 2 days hope it handles the power of my 1717

[JPriami]

Starting over with a new miss gecio. Ran it almost stock for the first time this weekend. I had a x642 prop on it the rest was stock. Ran decent. Other than bounce and not as fast as I like.

Last night I did some slight changes while I wait for my kintec rudder mount.
Going to try a T180 with 5mm connectors on the motor and esc with the stock motor.
With a 4S config and a 5S config when the other packs show up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/a3fa43fc.jpg

[jasoncyclone]

Will the stock motor handle the 5s with a 180 esc????

[Smoothops]

Will the stock motor handle the 5s with a 180 esc????
I have ran 5s no problem and even 6s for a quick pass on m445 prop, motor was really hot on 5s with 8 mins of run time....

[JPriami]

I'm going to use my 642 prop. Stock motor on 5S and a 445 prop is stressing it.

[JPriami]

well MG #2 will be ready for a test tomorrow I hope. Still not finished But I want to test out the electronics. Then I'll blue print the bottom of the boat.

Here is my solution for using the octura motor collets and the stock mount.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/12211383.jpg

Just used the barrel sander on the dremel to make some clearance.

The boats been fiberglass reinforced all down the seams and has an extra layer of glass and resin in the mid to back area for added strength. Sponson tips have great stuff foam in them. I'll be adding yellow pool noodle for flotation as well. after i see where the battery packs need to be fore sure in testing I will then put the trays back inside the boat but trim them down a little to get the batteries to sit lower in the hull. I may add a 2nd water pick up, But not sure till I run and see how the single rudder one works with the t-180 & 4074 1800Kv being run between 4 & 6S.

[JPriami]

Heck I want to go try it now lol. Can't wait for tomorrow.
Got a new radio to try to. $35 with a ton of features. Works good on my mini revo so I put another rx in this boat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/41c0826f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/3d84a6b4.jpg

[dana]

quick note: when using "y" connector and going from 2 lines to 1 what you make is a bottleneck. think of a huge crowd of people trying to get into walmart for after thanksgiving sale. to many people trying to squeeze thru… same goes for what youre doing. jmo =)

[JPriami]

Thanks. But I don't have a Y connector in this. Right now it's single in single out. I have another pickup I may install if I feel it needs it. Then I'll be using that 2nd outlet you see in the back (one on each side)

[Smoothops]

That remote works great i have one in MG, SV-27, Rustler, Jato, Grinder monster jam, and bandit. @ 7.50 for recivers you cant go wrong.

[JPriami]

Today was no good. It was raining off and on. I tried to go between rain showers and did get a good window to go. I ran the boat on 14.8v to test it out. Boat still had some bounce (porposing)(spelling?) I have tried the strut level with bottom of ride pads also tried it with the strut just a little above bottom of ride pads and a slight negative prop angle. With batteries all the way forward on the stock tray area.
Ran it a few to warm it up and check temps. Seemed ok. Then ran a little more and started to hear a squeal. Brought it in and motor was pretty warm and sounded like the squeal was from motor. So I packed up and went home. Didn't even get to finish the first set of lipo packs.
Went through motor and all seemed ok. Found out it was the drive line making noise. Took apart the strut and removed Teflon liner. Replaced it with one that was a little longer because the stock one seemed short. Long story short I fix it.
But before I did I thought the motor got hot and it was because it wasnt getting cooled enough so I went ahead and added the 2nd pickup to supply it. But turns out I think the motor got hot because the driveline was binding when it warmed up or maybe the motor slipped down a little and the line up was causing the bind. Idk.

Hope to try again tomorrow.

Here is the 2nd pickup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/4c92890a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/68203169.jpg

I also found if I use a little piece of cooling line over the end of my stuffing tube it keeps the grease from working it's way out and slinging around. Also helps hold the teflon liner in place a bit.


Edit: ok later i found that the 9" cog I hear about is measured from the back of the sponsons. So after looking at that I found my cog was a little back from that reference point. And that the stock location of my battery trays were to far back.

I resined over my trays and then cut them down so that they will sit lower in the sponsons too. I'll reattach them back into the boat once i find the sweet spot.

[JPriami]

Not good with the leopard 4074 1800kv on 5S and Octura x642. Motor and esc were around 125 but the wires were all pretty hot.

Also idk if the location of my 2nd water pickup was good idea. It moves water pretty good. But i think it hangs down too much and creates more drag than I thought. Im either going to disconnect it and use the rudder to cool the system while i make passes and keep raising the 2nd pickup till it stops shooting water out so I can see how high I can place it vs drag factor to see if I should just relocate it.

Boat ran smoother today with batteries more forward. Got it dialed in on 4S then went to 5S and it started a slight bounce again tho.

I'm ditching the leopard 4074 1800kv for this boat. By the way that motor was labeled a car motor (can be found on bottom of the box it comes in). I found out that the difference between the car motors and the boat motors is within the rotor. The boat motors have more torque than the car motors and that's important in boats. So I'm going back to the two castle motors I had for the first MG.

[JPriami]

Better results this afternoon thank goodness.

Castle 1520 & P225 prop

4S 40mph
5S 50mph
6S 60mph

Temps 100-125 ranges
Peak amps were 181
Peak watts 3796

I found the boat runs better with strut up. I'm going to have to cut some more off the back trailing edge and relocate the mounting holes for the kintec offset rudder slightly more forward to trim the rest off. Prop clears it now it's just close. I want good clearance.
2nd water pickup was able to be raised about 1/2 from first mounting condition and still works well with less drag.

Going to try the castle 1518 motor next.

[JPriami]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pSZ9JCFMco

[JPriami]

Got the new 1518 in. Also trimmed the strut/rudder bracket & relocated holes for mount. Good prop clearance and not as much to get sprayed with by the spinning prop.

Before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/75363b3a.jpg

After
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/1cd6ae04.jpg

[wavemaker]

Looks good jpriami.where did you get the decals from?

[JPriami]

The deck decal? I made it on my computer then sent the file off to a professional for a fee to have it turned Ito a vynil graphic I could use for my boat.

[JPriami]

Gosh I hate sanding another one.

This hull had real bad concave spots in the sponsons all the way down them.

Getting there tho.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/b8c4c134.jpg

[wavemaker]

Looks good.I need to get around to doing mine.what are you doing as far as the paint?

[JPriami]

Just going to be painting bottom of sponsons. Using krylon white primer then the fusion gloss white. I like the miss geico with white sponsons. My first one was sweet looking after I blueprinted and painted it.

[wavemaker]

Cool ill have to check it out.

[JPriami]

Got the primer and topcoat on today.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/53ce7de2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/feff642d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/dc157e44.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/1de184a6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/034500df.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/d626e02f.jpg

[jasoncyclone]

Looks great!!! I should be getting my ul1 powered geico Wednesday and this will be one of the first things I do to it! Thanks for all the pictures.

[wavemaker]

Looks good.your making me want to start on mine now.

[CHIEFY_44]

best thing you can do to this boat imo

[maxmekker]

I have sanded mine down, but I don't know how much is right/ore to much ? I will post a shot when I get home.

[d.a.v.e]

What did you set the timing to on your speed control? I'm running the stock motor and the same speed control, not sure what to set it at?

[JPriami]

I wasn't sure what timing should be on the stock motor. I tried 0-5 deg and that seemed ok when I ran it.

[HYDROJERRY]

Nice work JP,, maybe i should do mine but then again im still running al factory.. i did finaly get my m445 prop thow,,,

[maxmekker]

I used 11 timing on my t 180 and stock motor.(still do on the leo 4074)
the m445 i a nice prop for this boat yes.

JPriami :
This is how I have sanded mine. What do you think mister.more ore start laying some laiers ?


5757257573575745757557576

[d.a.v.e]

Sorry for the dumb question but what is the goal? To get the level so its flat across the hole boat, each sponson, or some combo of?

[JPriami]

I used 11 timing on my t 180 and stock motor.(still do on the leo 4074)
the m445 i a nice prop for this boat yes.

JPriami :
This is how I have sanded mine. What do you think mister.more ore start laying some laiers ?


5757257573575745757557576


Looks good Maxmekker. Just start adding filler to fill in the low spots and get them flat all the way across. Then get the inside and back edges crisp and sharp.

d.a.v.e here is a quote from Darin Jordan about what doing this to the miss geico will help with.

Darin:
"Cleaning up the bottom makes the boat run more efficiently. It allows the water to cleanly break off the wetted surfaces. Cleaning up the inside of the sponsons and making them sharp enhances the cornering and getting rid of the recesses in the sponson bottoms gets rid of "suction cups" on the ride pads... making them run more consistently and faster."
This thread shows more info here about this (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?17514-Miss-Geico-Race-Prep/page2&highlight=race+prep)

Darin had a hand in doing the miss gecio and a few other of the proboat models and he races. So I I have enjoyed his input on things for this boat. I dont race anyone (as I dont know anyone who boats around here and there are no races in my area) in mine but I am chasing speed and the faster you make something go the more critical things being perfect and true become. My frst MG wasnt all that bad but I did it just to do it. This 2nd MG the bottom of the hull had really bad concave spots in the middle of the sponsons. Not so good for me trying to make it go fast lol.

[maxmekker]

will start tomorrow. I have the presto easy filler. from the box:
A two-component polyester that provides a dense and pore-free surface that provides a perfect base for further painting.

I hate the mixing of the hardner, don't want to mess it up. Will do a test first.

[CHIEFY_44]

if you are going to the bother of blue printing the hull i would say do it right, so yes i think you need to sand the pads down a little bit more then you can see where to build up the hollows, also make sure that all the ride pads are the same hieght one of the middle pads on mine was way lower than the rest and had to build it up, also had to take hooks out of the rear ride pads too, while you are doing the pads i would sharpen the inside and outside edges of the sponsons as well, after that just make sure all edges are 90deg and sharp this make a great difference takes a little patients but well worth it in the end. When i had finished doing mine i set the strut level with the bottom of the sponsons and slapped a m445 with a leo 4074 on a t180 set at 11.25 deg timing and it runs great hits mid fifties no proplem corners hard and fast. One other thing i would change out the standard flex for a 187 flex and use a octura coupler, i ripped two 150 flex cables to bits with the leo 4074 m445 combo

[maxmekker]

thanks for the tip's. will post some shots later. My kintec flex is holding up good with the leo/m445. But The stock did wear rather fast.

JPriami :
Hope you don't mind the chitt chatt in you're tread.

[JPriami]

Threads not hijacked your taking about your MG's and sharing useful info & tips. Good stuff

I have the OSE upgraded cable and a couple wire drives I'm trying. Also still have 2 stock cables.

[d.a.v.e]

Sorry maybe my question was not real clear.. I understand the reasons for doing it but don't really understand what to do. Is the goal to even out all of the rid pads so they are level with each other or is there a pattern where different sets need to be different heights? Watching my boat run I would guess I would need to focus on the back two ride pads on each side.. maybe even just the one furthest at the back.

So if I'm looking at it from that point of view do I want the two on each side level with each other? Should it be level going both long ways and width wise across the bottom of the boat and show level?

Would you happen to know of a link that might explain the process and products needed so a new guy can understand it, better then this thread?

[JPriami]

Today was freaking awesome. Boat runs totally like it should now! I was able to pull 62.1mph off the Gps and temps below 120. But I was so happy to see the boat running across the water smoothly and fast. Constant roster tail no chopping from a bounce. Craziest thing was I played around with battery placement and I was able to move the batteries really far back like 1.5 inches away from back of sponson ends and it still stayed smooth. Made it gain speed but a little loose for a corner was the trade off.
Had about the people stop and watch today. It was good times.

[maxmekker]

That's how it should be. Post some shot's of placement when you get the time. What prop/lipo motor combo ?
when doing the hull, what type of 'stuff' did you use. auto store type, witch has to be mixed, ore ready to go from bottle? I tried to mix up a test now a couple of houers ago, not sure I got it right. Will do the hull tomorrow.

[jasoncyclone]

GREAT!!! I am in process of bluebrinting the bottom of my MG right now. I cant wait....

[JPriami]

D.a.v.e -
Get the ride pads level with each other long ways on each side. They are not the stepped one higher than the other on these hulls.

[JPriami]

Getting a little better each day. 63.8Mph

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/1f2056f9.jpg

its odd temp B wont show up on a downloaded from device log. But shows up in live mode and on the power panel lcd.

[JPriami]

Short clip from earlier today 8.12.11
Boat ran pretty good. Slight bounce was back at certain lower speeds. I was playing around with battery placement and think thats why.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ai05uBpD0E

[bbosncali]

Short clip from earlier today 8.12.11
Boat ran pretty good. Slight bounce was back at certain lower speeds. I was playing around with battery placement and think thats why.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ai05uBpD0E

Common on justin you know you just wanted to copy me lol but atleast your getting a couple mphs more glad to here that now I have a new goal

[JPriami]

Lol copy you? No I had my CC 1520 & the 1518 when I bought my first MG ;) I had a plan all along. Just had to smash a hull first, then get back to it.
BTW thats my 2yr old son getting a kick out of watching the boat. I look forward to doing RC with him in the future.

[bbosncali]

Nice... you know I'm just messing with you. Hey btw what kind of amps are you pulling with that setup so I can get an idea for mine

[JPriami]

Yeah I know you are :D. Amps haha good question. I just looked and my average was low. But I think it was from how I was driving. I would make med speed passes the a few high speeds between and so on. So my average was low and a little hard to determine. The 182 were spikes but also one of those was at WOT. Funny part of the graph was my temps would start taking a dive to low when I was going fast.

[JPriami]

Tried to use the gopro camera on my rescue rig out on the lake to try and get some shots. It was fun to try. Might do it again. At the end of the video you see how my day at the lake started.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jgkz8KjT1FQ

[HYDROJERRY]

thats a good camara!!!!

[JPriami]

Yeah I like it. The water proof case is nice. But it muffles the sound when it's on.
I am thinking about making a new PVC rescue rig that has a camera mount that sits up a little higher so I don't have to put the camera on the boat itself. Might get some better shots like that.

[maxmekker]

Did the hull today. Feels better.
Did you scruff up the sponson, ore did you leave it silky smooth. ?

5776257763577645776557766

[26missgeico]

5776057761
dont run the 180a esc had mine going 50 at 1/4 throttle and it blew up should hit 80 easy

[JPriami]

I lightly sanded the bottoms of mine with like 360 grit. Did it in long strokes length wise front to back.

[JPriami]

Sorry to hear about the esc blowing. That does happen and is a risk we take. What motor is that? 2200?

[26missgeico]

were did you get the pick ups? no its a 3068

[d.a.v.e]

Nice video.. Bit long but you got some good shots there.

[maxmekker]

That sure looks like a smelly boat. What's the status ? My 180 has held up both in the surge crusher and in the miss geico. Only time it(cap's that is) get's warm is on 5s with the m445.

[26missgeico]

I'm running maxamps 6500mah 150c with a x648 prop

[26missgeico]

quick question... could i put bigger capacitors on the 180a esc?? i want something that doesn't burn the hull every time i run it.... thanks brandan

[Rumdog]

How about a proper setup instead. The 180s are excellent escs. Read up a bit before you have another fire

[bbosncali]

You can add an aditional 3 which helps but depending on motor prop size and how many cells your running it might not make any difference. I run a 1518 on 6s with a m645 and have no problems but it does seem to run a little better with my m545 though. Temps are usually around 120 at the caps and I've had many successful runs with my 180. I put a brand new swordfish in my df running a cc1717 and it blew the first 2mins in the water and that is a 6s motor and I was runing same size prop that was on my mg. That motor should have no problem running a 645 if my 1518 doesn't but sometimes you just get a lemon


quick question... could i put bigger capacitors on the 180a esc?? i want something that doesn't burn the hull every time i run it.... thanks brandan

[Rumdog]

I'm kind of tired of hearing "dont use_____ equipment" From guys who don't know what they are doing. Trying to give a certain product a bad review because of your own ignorance of it or your setup just leads to misconceptions and finger pointing.

[26missgeico]

Rumdog this is a website for rc boats not bitching.....but im running castle creations mamba 3068 with a water cooling jacket and maxamps 6500mah 3's lipo 150c, a x648 prop was running good for 2 days straight. any help id appreciate it

[wilsta67]

were did you get the pick ups? no its a 3068

lol

[wilsta67]

5776057761
dont run the 180a esc had mine going 50 at 1/4 throttle and it blew up should hit 80 easy
double lol

[wilsta67]

Rumdog this is a website for rc boats not bitching.....but im running castle creations mamba 3068 with a water cooling jacket and maxamps 6500mah 3's lipo 150c, a x648 prop was running good for 2 days straight. any help id appreciate it
kv is way to high and your running it on 2 3s batteries which make it 6s all up its any wander you blew the esc up. im surprised it lasted 2 days.
if in dought ask mate it will save you money and heart ache in the long run. but dont blame things on hardware. alot of us use that same esc with no problems its been tried and tested over and over again its a great esc at an affordable price.
dont feel stupid i made the same mistake you have starting out.

[26missgeico]

ok well i must be all *!***!***!***!**ed up, because ive seen this same set up go great and last forever, thanks for the help

[wilsta67]

if you want a reliable boat try a cc1515 2200kv get another esc like you had you will need to run it on 4s so you will need 2x 2s batteries to make it 4s and get yourself an octura 442 prop
this is just one option. this is what i run in my MG
also with the castle motors the drive shaft is a bit longer than stock i had to cut off a couple of mm so the collet would not hit the stuffing tube.
this is my boat.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/3754/img0344zh.jpg


http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9707/img0345ie.jpg


http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5582/img0346qm.jpg


http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/2580/img0347yd.jpg


http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4453/img0348ep.jpg

[26missgeico]

ok, but i was looking at the castle creations 240a esc i was going to try that, i just don't want another fire if this dont work i mite get the 2200kv w/ 180a esc

[JPriami]

I am unfamiliar with the 3068 motor u mentioned. Is that a 3068kv motor? And you were running 6S?