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knpc
03-31-2011, 06:52 PM
I'm starting a new cat biuld. The hull is a 43'' Aeromarine Conquest with an Avernger hatch. I have almost all the components for the build, just waiting on the motor which has been ordered. I've been able to do a few things, mostly planning at this point. Just about everything for this build was bought from OSE and forum members.

This is the plan so far
- 43'' Aeromarine Conquest hull reinforced with CF
- Speedmaster strut w/ skeg
- Speedmaster rudder
- .250 flex stepped down to 3/16
- CC Hydra 240 HV
- Neu 2230/1y (725kv)
- 10s2p 35c lipos (four 5s 5000mah packs per run)
- motor mount from Peter Zicka
- 8mm-.250 coupler from Jeff Wolt
- decals from monojeff
- prop?

Here are a few pictures. This is by far the biggest hull I've built, everything to this point has been 4s or 6s setups.


Kevin

knpc
03-31-2011, 06:54 PM
A few more

knpc
03-31-2011, 07:28 PM
I'm open to any setup suggestions you guys may have, like I said this is my first BIG cat. A couple questions to start with. As far as c.o.g. I was thinking to set in around 33% with room to adjust forward and back 1'' or so. Also what props should I try, would a X460 be a good place to start?

TotalPackage
03-31-2011, 07:35 PM
U running twins or a single?Oh duh a single. I see the mount. that 2230 is a beast when It moves a mono with a prop that size @ 70 plus mph I think that 2230 will chew that 460 up and spit it back out at you lol hell yeah try it. But I bet It can do more.

knpc
03-31-2011, 07:42 PM
U running twins or a single?

Single motor, one big Neu. I'm not looking to break any records, my goal is for it to run mid to high 60s, maybe 70 and stable.

TotalPackage
03-31-2011, 08:13 PM
Single motor, one big Neu. I'm not looking to break any records, my goal is for it to run mid to high 60s, maybe 70 and stable.

Aww sh.. 70 will be cake I bet for a big Neu.

dana
03-31-2011, 09:12 PM
cool hull

Killer V
03-31-2011, 10:22 PM
Forget about the boat, your kid is adorable. That being said, that setup will fly. You may need more than 33% C/G with the speeds you are going to hit. I just built my 1st cat as well. An Aeromarine Cyclone. Certainly two different approaches to a build. I wish I got one of Peter's motor mount esc setups, it is truley a work of art. The best of luck, and enjoy the build. I will be following your build.

Killer V:cool2:

Fluid
03-31-2011, 10:35 PM
An x462 or x465 are pretty standard for that motor and hull. Depending on the use you could go up a bit like an x665. That was a bit too much for the Lehner 3060 in my Stryker cat but your big Neu should eat it up. I like the Avenger Pro hatch on this hull.


.

jingalls007
03-31-2011, 10:58 PM
The conquest is a fantastic boat! Hands down one of the best handling boats I ever built and ran in that length. I ran a pro mod zenoah with these props http://www.voodoopropellers.com/ Having said that, I don't know if they can be used with an electric setup but I do remember running close to 70 with these prop's and handling really well. (I don't remember which one's, it's been a few years) perhaps someone else here might have experience with voodoo props??

It's nice to have some options I guess.. :Peace_Sign:

knpc
03-31-2011, 11:28 PM
Forget about the boat, your kid is adorable.

Killer V:cool2:

Thanks. It's our first. she is almost 3 months old and is such a great baby. I thought it was an interesting size camparison and snapped a picture.

I've been watching your Cyclone build. It came out real nice, paint is great too. Looking foward to a video


Thanks for the prop advise Jay, I'll give the x462 and x465 a try and go from there. I like this hatch much more than the stock one as well, completely changes the look of the boat IMO.

10gauge
03-31-2011, 11:57 PM
First of all, congratulations on your baby! May she outgrow the conquest real soon. :biggrin:

According to my cat speed formula, the speed ranges for the following props are:

x462 ~ 63mph
x465 ~ 66mph
x468 ~ 68mph
x665 ~ 75mph

I am all done with small boats as for the past year, I've been contemplating on a Conquest 43in build. I've got more 6S than 4S setups, and it would be nice to go with 12S in that hull. I wonder if the 725 kV would be too high for 12S as the 485 kV sounds too low?...

In any case, I'd love to see how it turns out, maybe you'll have it done this summer?! Keep us posted.

ncornacchi
04-01-2011, 05:33 AM
Looks like the King of the pond is building his defense !! Caileigh could ride in that thing, she is so small, 1/12 scale human?

TotalPackage
04-01-2011, 10:13 AM
The conquest is a fantastic boat! Hands down one of the best handling boats I ever built and ran in that length. I ran a pro mod zenoah with these props http://www.voodoopropellers.com/ Having said that, I don't know if they can be used with an electric setup but I do remember running close to 70 with these prop's and handling really well. (I don't remember which one's, it's been a few years) perhaps someone else here might have experience with voodoo props??

It's nice to have some options I guess.. :Peace_Sign:

No challenging anyones expertise but weve yet to see a GAS prop as effective in an FE as they run in a different rpm range. Fluid has already told us this and I honestly cant remember seeing a gas prop run good . So i got to agree with him.Nothings impossible I know but stick to the octuras in the 55-65 mm range. ABC makes some good props too.

MarkF
04-01-2011, 11:58 AM
I've been running the big Neus for several years now and this is my take on it. In my mono I ran 12s and all sorts of 3 and 4 blade props in the 65 to 70 mm range from voodoo and prop shop and the motor handled all of them. What it comes down to is finding the right prop that the boat likes. For my mono it was a 6515 or 6715 prop shop prop with a little work done to be more mono friendly. I would figure out what prop the gas guys like running with that boat and start there. An X465 or 467 wont work that motor very hard on 10s. I agree most electric motors dont like gas props but the 2230 has no problem with them.

Mark

TotalPackage
04-01-2011, 12:25 PM
I've been running the big Neus for several years now and this is my take on it. In my mono I ran 12s and all sorts of 3 and 4 blade props in the 65 to 70 mm range from voodoo and prop shop and the motor handled all of them. What it comes down to is finding the right prop that the boat likes. For my mono it was a 6515 or 6715 prop shop prop with a little work done to be more mono friendly. I would figure out what prop the gas guys like running with that boat and start there. An X465 or 467 wont work that motor very hard on 10s. I agree most electric motors dont like gas props but the 2230 has no problem with them.

Mark

Thanks Mark. :Peace_Sign: I like that mono too mark shes screaming!

RaceMechaniX
04-01-2011, 12:33 PM
I have a similar conquest with a 2215 1.5Y on 10S2P. The hull likes the X series Octura props. I ran X457 up to X462 with speeds varying from 72 to 78 mph. For the larger 2230, i would swap out of the 3/16" step down shaft and just run a regular 1/4" flex. A X467 with added cup or a X670 will make her fly.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=12817&highlight=conquest

Tyler

jingalls007
04-01-2011, 12:55 PM
No challenging anyones expertise but weve yet to see a GAS prop as effective in an FE as they run in a different rpm range. Fluid has already told us this and I honestly cant remember seeing a gas prop run good . So i got to agree with him.Nothings impossible I know but stick to the octuras in the 55-65 mm range. ABC makes some good props too.

I wasn't sure so thank you for clarifying. Voodoo actually has a nitro/electric line now which I just noticed here: http://voodoopropellers.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_22_26

I know the gas props were fantastic, I know nothing about their electric/nitro line. Anyone?

knpc
04-01-2011, 05:09 PM
Thanks for all the prop advise, this gives me a good idea of a few props to order to start out.

RaceMechanix - I went with the 1/4 flex stepped down to 3/16 because this setup seemed right on the line of 3/16'' and 1/4'' props. I figured with the 3/16 I could run a sleeve bushing and use both sizes to give me the most options. I've looked at your Conquest build, great thread and also where I found out that the Avenger hatch would fit this hull.

10gauge - those speeds you came up with seem like they will be very accurate with the real world speed, what formula did you use to produce those numbers? From what I know this motor would do great on 12s, I just don't trust the Castle on any more than 10s and didn't want to make the leap to a Shulze just yet.

Norm - I won't be able to hold you off for long, once that HPR is done the rest of us won't stand a chance.

There are still a few things I can do until the motor gets here. I'm going to make the rails, battery trays, and finish up the hatch hold downs.


Kevin

TotalPackage
04-01-2011, 06:41 PM
Thanks for all the prop advise, this gives me a good idea of a few props to order to start out.

RaceMechanix - I went with the 1/4 flex stepped down to 3/16 because this setup seemed right on the line of 3/16'' and 1/4'' props. I figured with the 3/16 I could run a sleeve bushing and use both sizes to give me the most options. I've looked at your Conquest build, great thread and also where I found out that the Avenger hatch would fit this hull.

10gauge - those speeds you came up with seem like they will be very accurate with the real world speed, what formula did you use to produce those numbers? From what I know this motor would do great on 12s, I just don't trust the Castle on any more than 10s and didn't want to make the leap to a Shulze just yet.

Norm - I won't be able to hold you off for long, once that HPR is done the rest of us won't stand a chance.

There are still a few things I can do until the motor gets here. I'm going to make the rails, battery trays, and finish up the hatch hold downs.


Kevin
If casle couldnt run 12s then that would be false advertisement but all the conponentry in it can handle more I think it would be ok . Dont take this to mean run 12s coz I really dont know if 12s with your kv is right im just saying im sure the castle can do 12s

10gauge
04-01-2011, 06:43 PM
Over three years ago, I derived a mathematical equation to calculate speed for catamarans. I guess it's been long forgotten by the forum or it never really caught on. I find it very useful for approximating performance without having to take the boat on the water or build a boat by hearsay or guessing. Maybe I should repost this? I based my formula on quantitative analysis and it is a fairly accurate statistical approximation of actual setups. My formula was verified by Jay Turner on RRR and it's within 3% of his calculations. I had more time to devote to RC boats back then...

Here's my original formula:

mph = [Prop Factor] x [Prop dia] x [kv motor] x [LiPo Volts] x 0.000687
(Prop factor or pitch is 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, etc.; and Prop dia. is in inches).

mph = [Prop Distance per Revolution] x [kv motor] x [LiPo Volts] x 0.000687

Here are the original threads on the formula from February 2008:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=2695
http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/feforums/showthread.php?t=25059&highlight=formula+calculating+speed

Here's the same formula for prop dia. in mm. Multiply Pitch, Dia, kV, V, then divide by 36970 for catamarans, and divide by 33610 for Hydros.

mph (cat) = [Prop Pitch] x [Prop Dia.] x [kV] x [LiPo V] / 36970

mph (Hydro) = [Prop Pitch] x [Prop Dia.] x [kV] x [LiPo V] / 33300


So in your setup, just plug in the numbers:

For a x462 prop: [1.4] [62 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 63mph
For a x465 prop: [1.4] [65 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 66mph

knpc
04-01-2011, 07:13 PM
10gauge - I just tried your formula for some of my current setups where I know what the actual speeds are. All were within a couple mph, very impressive and a tool I'll be using for future setups.

Totalpackage - I spoke with Joe Ford, the guy how heads up Castle's boat dept, he reccomended not to run the 240HV on 12s. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, it may be fine for years, it may go up in smoke in a minute, or it may just shorten the esc's lifespan a bit. As a rule I never run an esc at it's max voltage, I try to leave some room for user error (me).

dana
04-01-2011, 08:15 PM
For a x462 prop: [1.4] [62 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 63mph
For a x465 prop: [1.4] [65 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 66mph
i dont get it. why 37v?

knpc
04-01-2011, 08:40 PM
For a x462 prop: [1.4] [62 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 63mph
For a x465 prop: [1.4] [65 mm] [725] [37 V] / 36970 = 66mph
i dont get it. why 37v?

I'm going to run 10s2p. 3.7 volts per cell x 10 cells = 37 volts

For my Sprintcat I ran an x455 on 6s2p - 1.4 x 2.17 x 1250kv x 22.2v x .000687 =57.9 the boat actually runs around 60-61mph

Killer V
04-01-2011, 08:54 PM
KNPC,

Two things, your daughter is beautiful, enjoy her as she is so young. Mine is 24 now. Ahh the good old days. The other thing is, and I am not critisizing, but Peter's mount looks like it is to attach to stringers. Are you going to put some in. I am curious as to your layout.


Jeff

knpc
04-01-2011, 09:20 PM
Yes, I'm putting rails in. I thought it would be easier to make the rails the way I wanted them instead of having to modify rails that were already installed. The rails never come the way I would want them, not they they will be anything special its just a pain to try to shape them with a dremel while they're in the hull. I had Peter make the mount to fit betwen 5'' rails.
I'm still working on the layout, even in this big hull I somehow still seem to run out of space :confused1:. I guess with a motor the size of a coke can and 4 packs it fills up quickly.

dana
04-02-2011, 12:51 AM
I'm going to run 10s2p. 3.7 volts per cell x 10 cells = 37 volts

For my Sprintcat I ran an x455 on 6s2p - 1.4 x 2.17 x 1250kv x 22.2v x .000687 =57.9 the boat actually runs around 60-61mph

oh ok i get it now. so my MM comes out at 51 mph. sounds about right. ive never gps'd it tho.... i suppose i could also use this formula to calculate different props before i buy them... kinda neat

10gauge
04-02-2011, 10:52 AM
Guys, remember that this formula is not based on theoretical conditions. The data to derive the constant for cats (36970) and hydros (33300) was from a pool of 30 actual and running setups. The calculated speed is an average for a particular type of hull and the data pool doesn't represent "best case scenarios or runs." It keeps the numbers modest, so be pleasantly surprised if your actual setup goes a few mph faster than calculated speed, and not the other way around.

Kevin, I am glad that 12S will work on the 725 kV motor. To bad Neu doesn't have an intermediate kV that keeps rpm <30,000 on 12S for such a large motor. I am just worried about current draw on a similarly large prop. I agree that the Avenger Pro Cowl looks great. I also like the Cyclone twin canopy design, but I wonder if it could be reworked to fit the Conquest?

knpc
04-02-2011, 11:43 AM
The kv is as little in between 10s and 12s. On 10s its 27,00 and on 12s its 32,00, seems to me that 11s may be a good solution. 11s would put the rpm around 29,500, I am thinking about giving it a try after I get the boat dialed in depending on how it runs, I have the 5s and 6s packs to do it.

The cyclone cowl is nice, I'm sure you could make it work if you got both cowls and did a little cutting and fiberglass work. I modified my sprintcat cowl by cutting out the entire center section and making my own cockpit and glassing everything, wasn't too hard and came out good.

knpc
04-14-2011, 03:40 PM
I got a little more done on this, I've done just about all I can do until the motor arrives. I made the stringers, they are ready to install. I also put on the vinyl decals that monojeff made up for me, he did a great job making exactly what I wanted.

Here are a few pictures

monojeff
04-14-2011, 06:45 PM
Decals look great!!
Nice work.
Look forward to seeing it run.

10gauge
04-14-2011, 10:15 PM
Nice work Kevin and Monojeff! I can't wait to see this cat run... Are you going to go with flex cable in brass tube (w/o liner)?

knpc
04-16-2011, 09:56 PM
Nice work Kevin and Monojeff! I can't wait to see this cat run... Are you going to go with flex cable in brass tube (w/o liner)?

Thanks
Yes, I'm going to run a 1/4'' flex cable in a 5/16 stuffing tube with no liner. I haven't run a liner in my last 5 or 6 boats and its been working well for me.

knpc
07-06-2011, 09:17 PM
After a bit of a wait my 2230/1Y arrived today and I can get back to this build :thumbup:. I will post progress as I go along.

Here are a few pictures of the motor, for a size comparison it's next to a 9xl and a coke can. This thing is HUGE.

A couple things as I get back into this. First, as you can see in the picture, the motor is 1'' longer than the dimentions I gave Peter for the mount so hopefully I gan convince him to make me four longer connecting rods. Second, I would like to mount the motor and ESC as it is in the picture. The problem is the length of the wires, what is the best fix for this? If I extend the ESC wires to the motor, what is the proper way to do it with the least resistance? My other option would be to put the ESC in front of the motor, this would be a PITA to get at and the wires from the ESC to the packs would be longer. I would think have the esc to motor wires longer would be better than having the esc to pack wires longer.

Any suggestions would be great

Kevin

knpc
07-06-2011, 09:24 PM
54953549545495554956

dana
07-06-2011, 09:33 PM
I say go with 4 stiletto outboards with ul1 motors hahaha. Hey but Saturday morning maybe?

Fluid
07-06-2011, 09:56 PM
...I would like to mount the motor and ESC as it is in the picture. The problem is the length of the wires, what is the best fix for this...I would think have the esc to motor wires longer would be better than having the esc to pack wires longer....Any suggestions would be great.Why fight it? The best place for the ESC is on top of the motor, this is where most racers put it. That means short motor wires and short battery wires. With the motor over the coupler it is in the worst place to get wet, and in the way for tightening the cable. This one is mounted too high.....

http://i53.tinypic.com/96b0d5.jpg


This is another option:
http://i53.tinypic.com/2lidczp.jpg

knpc
07-07-2011, 04:08 PM
Jay, ideally I would like to put it one of those two locations you pictured. I can't put the esc on top of the motor because I don't have the hieght clearance under the hatch and if I put it on the side of the rails, which I may do, I would still have to extend the esc to motor wires. The wires coming out of the motor are very short as you can see in the picture. As for the short esc wires that is my doing, this esc was in another boat and in an effort to keep all wired as short as possible I cut them to only what I needed for that application and screwed myself in the long run. The only place it could go without extending the wires is in front of the motor, this would be a pita to access and impossible to get temp readings because it would be under the deck.

With that being said, there is no way I have thought of around extending the wires it's just a matter of the best way to do it. Should I use connectors or just solder the wires direct? What gauge wire for the extentions?

Kevin

Fluid
07-07-2011, 04:14 PM
It may be tough to solder the two wires together with adequate contact. It may be easier to solder on large connectors (8mm) and either just plug them in, or solder the connectors together. Eight gauge wire.


.

knpc
07-07-2011, 04:17 PM
Thanks Jay, that's what I needed to know

knpc
07-12-2011, 05:43 PM
I've got a few more things done on this. The rails are epoxied in place, the stuffing tube is bent and installed, hardware is sealed and mounted.

Peter has made and sent out some longer connecting rods for the motor mount.

I guess next up is to locate and mount the servo, floatation, and soldering.


Kevin

knpc
07-12-2011, 11:44 PM
What steering servo in needed in a hull this size? I have two sitting on the workbench to choose from. First one is a HS-645 - speed .20sec / torque 133oz, the second is a HS7954 - digital / speed .15sec / torque 333oz. Obviously with a servo - stronger, faster, and digital is better, but is the HS7954 necessary or would the HS645 work fine. I don't want to strip a servo taking a corner at 60mph, it's alot of boat to turn.

knpc
07-15-2011, 10:18 PM
progress

Fluid
07-15-2011, 10:25 PM
Good call on the digital servo. Since you have both, the stronger one is the best choice. While many gas guys run 645s in their cats, FE cats are a lot heavier and the extra torque is an advantage. Too, digital servos have a much stronger centering force, helping to keep the boat running straight.

Be careful with the Tactic receiver sitting on carbon. Some have reported limited range with the receiver near CF.




.

knpc
07-24-2011, 07:31 PM
I made up some battery trays and got a few other little things done. Once a couple parts arrive I should be able to wrap up this build in a week or two.

knpc
07-28-2011, 10:08 PM
The cooling jacket arrived today, Dave did a great job on it. I mounted it on the motor and pressure tested it, the fit is perfect and no leaks.

Kevin

knpc
07-28-2011, 10:34 PM
back in the motor mount

crrcboatz
07-29-2011, 12:51 AM
I have a bit of concern for the high position of the motor in relation to the cg of this boat. I can see the possibility of the higher cg being an issue at the speed this boat should go. My experience in gas boats tells me to get everything as close to the bottom of the boat as possible. Higher weights will make it difficult to handle well. Good luck and we shall see.

knpc
07-29-2011, 09:39 PM
I have a bit of concern for the high position of the motor in relation to the cg of this boat. I can see the possibility of the higher cg being an issue at the speed this boat should go. My experience in gas boats tells me to get everything as close to the bottom of the boat as possible. Higher weights will make it difficult to handle well. Good luck and we shall see.

It may not look like it in the pictures, but the motor is about as low as it can be while still keeping the stuffing tube with a single bend. There is only 1/16'' between the bottom of the cooling jacket and the hull. The motor is set at an 18 deg angle, I've set up a few hulls with that motor angle and it works well for me. The only way to get the motor lower would be to lay it flat and have an s-bend stuffing tube, I prefer a single bend.

With this boat coming in around 20lbs, of which there is 7lbs worth of packs in the sponsons, it should stay planted to the water. Also the boat really isn't going to be all that fast for it's size, I'm expecting aroound 65-70mph. Thanks for the input. Hopefully the way I layed it out makes for a good running boat, I guess the maiden voyage in a couple weeks will answer that:Praying:

Rumdog
07-29-2011, 09:52 PM
This boat has a lower vertical CG than a gasser could EVER have. Look at all the lipos in the sponsons! Let her rip!!!!!!!

Fluid
07-29-2011, 11:46 PM
Dozens of racing FE Conquests/Avangers have shown that the CG is just fine for performance racing. Moving the motor up or down an inch has little effect. Rummy has it nailed, with the packs low in the sponsons the CG is lower than in similar gas boats. The photo angles are a bit deceiving.

Here are a couple more examples of awesome handling FE Conquests. BTW there is nothing wrong with an "S" bend, it can actually reduce cable drag in many cases.

http://i51.tinypic.com/wkh0lh.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/oaas9h.jpg

dana
07-29-2011, 11:53 PM
kevin, can i be there for the first run? hehe

wingnut
07-30-2011, 01:25 AM
kinda nice to see that hull with out a spark plug sticking out. very nice!

knpc
08-07-2011, 09:21 PM
Well She is just about ready for the pond. The new(longer) connecting rods for the motor mount arrived and are installed. All the plumbing is done and tested. All thats left at this point is to bench test everything, as long as that goes well the first run should be next weekend.

As far as the initial setup, for those of you with a similar cat, where should I have the strut hieght/angle and cog? Right now I have the bottom of the strut 5/16'' above the bottom of the sponsons and at zero deg. My cog is set at 32%, but has alot of room for adjustment. I'm planning on starting with an x460 or x462, I also have an x465 and x467 to try if all goes well.

Here are a few pics of the finished product

Rumdog
08-07-2011, 09:30 PM
Very sweet! I am jealous!

Punisher 67
08-07-2011, 10:38 PM
Very nice so far Kevin , I see the longer rods finally got there

knpc
08-08-2011, 04:56 PM
Thanks Rum and Peter, it was a longer build than I had anticipated but worth it. Hopefully the payoff will come when this 2230 roars across the lake.

Phaleronic
08-08-2011, 06:59 PM
I'm very jealous too knpc. :) She looks fabulous and will surely be a screamer.

Rich
08-08-2011, 07:20 PM
Lookin' Good! Video!:laugh::popcorn2:

knpc
08-11-2011, 07:09 PM
Thanks for the compliments guys, I'll get a video after the maiden voyage.

Anyone on a good starting point for strut hieght and cog ???

dana
08-11-2011, 07:15 PM
Beastly!

HRC
08-11-2011, 07:42 PM
Looks great Kevin. We will be looking for a video -:)
Dave

Rumdog
08-14-2011, 05:56 PM
Did she run yet?!

knpc
08-14-2011, 09:10 PM
Unfortunately not, I wound up having to work saturday and today was a sh*ty day weather wise. I'll be at the pond next weekend no matter what.

knpc
08-20-2011, 03:41 PM
I took her out for the first run today, it didn't go as well as I hoped it would. Everything worked great except the motor coupler. I put it in the water, went about 100' then heard a winding noise. Went and got it, found the problem and tightened the coupler set screws. I put it back in the water and got about 6 or 7 laps in before it stripped again. I'll order a collet style coupler this week as it seems the set-screw coupler just can't handle the torque of this motor.

For the few laps I did get in the boat ran awsome, the 2230 is a beast. It ran 63mph with a very conservative prop and stayed planted in the straights and the corners. Everything was cool but it was only a one minute run so it's hard to take too much from that. I'll order a new coupler and hopefully have it by next weekend for more testing and a video.

Punisher 67
08-20-2011, 04:00 PM
Kevin setscrew couplers can work but not with tiny screws , I make my own and put in 10/32 screws . also the flex shaft needs to be soldered at the end so the screws can get a good bite into the cable . my Sniper has only two setscrews holding the cable and not a single issue in 3 years .

Sorry to hear about the first run , My Apache with a collet coupler 30 feet out same thing just didn,t tighten it enough .

Fluid
08-20-2011, 04:24 PM
Big boats with large props put extreme stress on couplers. I gave up on set screws years ago, but collets require special attention to maximize their reliability. You need to put an anti-seeze compound on the collet threads, otherwise much of the torque applied by your wrenches is wasted on internal friction. It only takes a little compound, but it increases the holding power of the collet substantially - with no additional pull on the wrenches.



.

knpc
08-20-2011, 04:24 PM
Thanks Peter, if you get a chance could you post a picture of what your coupler looks like.
I guess if that's the only problem I have on a maiden run then it's not too bad.

I did solder the end of the flex cable and used locktight for the setscrews but they still wouldn't hold. They are very small setscrews, 6 on the cable side and I torqued them as much as I could without stripping them.

When I first heard the winding sound I figured I lost the prop or prop and flex, fortunately everything stayed in place and didn't sink to the bottom of the pond.

knpc
08-20-2011, 04:29 PM
Thanks for the tip Jay, any specific product you recommend?

Punisher 67
08-20-2011, 11:11 PM
You can make both work but they each need to be done right . The setscrew coupler has to be made right and not with weenie screws either , I don,t know what went wrong for you Jay but I have had absolute luck with the ones I made .

But do try the collet types as Jay mentioned they certainly are reliable tightened correctly

I don,t have a picture but the I do have a youtube video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6WI0MIzlHE

knpc
08-20-2011, 11:33 PM
Just watched the video Peter, those couplers look really nice and have much bigger setscrews than what I'm working with. I'll have to add one of those to my next motor mount order:wink:

It must be great to have the ability and resources to make your own parts and not always rely on other people, I'm a bit jealous

Punisher 67
08-25-2011, 03:34 AM
Sorry for the late reply Kevin , Having the ability to create your own hardware is great but it can also be a curse , You have to watch what you post....you get enough demand for an item and it serously impeeds on your spare time if you try to please everyone with requests . not to be an a$$hole I try to help as much as possible but you have to look at your own free time also . Between work + sleep some days there is only 4.0 hours that you have to yourself and if you shoot yourself in the foot machining requests you are left with zero time to do anything but run the whole process over day after day .

As far as the couplers the large screws and soldering the flex shaft tip has worked very well for me , But collets are almost bullet proof providing they are tightened properly

knpc
08-26-2011, 04:25 PM
I understand where you're coming from Peter. I am a carpenter/construction supervisor, there is always a family member or friend that wants me to do work on their house. If I'm lucky I get one weekend a month to myself. I haven't even gotten that lately, I've been doing something for someone the last six weekends.

I did get a collet style coupler this week and put it on. Hopefully I can get out for some testing tomorrow before this hurricane shows up.

knpc
09-18-2011, 02:29 PM
Video posted !