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dirty
03-26-2011, 07:23 PM
Which kit is the best,and what all do i need to order when i order.I want an offset rudder setup so hopefully this boat will quit with the bouncing.Need a parts list please

lectriglide
03-26-2011, 07:38 PM
All you need is Version 2.

http://www.kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html

dirty
03-26-2011, 07:40 PM
and it comes with everything as far as nuts,bolts? do i have to do anything with the linkage to the steering?and directions? lol

lectriglide
03-26-2011, 07:43 PM
and it comes with everything as far as nuts,bolts? do i have to do anything with the linkage to the steering?and directions? lol

Everything is included. I swapped the rudder arm from the right side to the left side (flip it over) so I would not have to bend the linkage. Remember to reverse your steering servo throw if you do, it will be backwards. By the way It works great!

dirty
03-26-2011, 07:44 PM
how do i reverse the servo?

dirty
03-26-2011, 07:45 PM
and can you post a pic of yours?

lectriglide
03-26-2011, 07:48 PM
how do i reverse the servo?


The transmitter will have a reverse switch.

lectriglide
03-26-2011, 08:09 PM
and can you post a pic of yours?

Not very good quality, but you can see what it is.

dirty
03-26-2011, 08:11 PM
can i still use the stock water pick up tube?and when you say transmitter,you mean the little black box that the linkage goes to?

LarrysDrifter
03-26-2011, 08:18 PM
The transmiter is what you hold in your hand to control your boat. It has the steering wheel and trigger for throttle.

jac4412
03-27-2011, 12:00 PM
Dirty, you won't have to change any of the tubing... The transmitter has a switch on top which will allow you to reverse the servo

Boomer
03-27-2011, 12:08 PM
I posted a picture of the radio's switch that controls the rudder. As Larry stated you need change it or you will be turning left to go right. That is a good way to run you boat into something. One switch is the throttle and marked, the other is for the rudder and it to is marked "ST".

The Kintec off set kit is dirt simple to install. If you install one be sure you use a plastic bolt on the bottom hole. This is referred to as a "break-a-way" precaution, so if you hit a solid object, you won't fracture the transom of your boat.

I have one, like it but found that it is not really necessary. At first it was thought that the prop wash was hitting the rudder assembly causing or contributing to the bounce we have all experienced.

As we all started playing around with trim adjustments to the prop shaft, that by adjusting the angle of the prop shaft to be the best method to get the boat properly trimmed and eliminate most of all of the bounce. You can fine tune the trim with small movements of the batteries. Prop selection can affect the trim so do a little reseach on this before you choose a new prop.

We have also found that the more power the less the bounce. Half the fun of having these things is learning how they work. These are really just smaller version of real racing boats, and respond in many similar ways.

Be aware, these boats are just short of being airbourne when running at or close to full throttle, so trim and driving skills are very important. It is very important for you to reinforce your boats canopy. They are worse than fragile, and any crash at speed is very likely to crack or distroy your canopy. Taping it down is important too. The magnets are great, but tape works in keeping the water out and the canopy on.

You can read lots of threads on this fourm to learn how to strenght the canopy, which is the weak link in this great boat. It should have been made out of stronger material. But it is what is for now. Plus the darn paint color is nearly impossible to match.

Seems like a lot to think about but, once your into it for a little while, you'll catch on. If you don't the alternatives are all expensive.

Boomer

dirty
03-27-2011, 12:08 PM
ok.thanks...i ordered the offset kit,hopefully that will fix everything

dirty
03-27-2011, 12:12 PM
ive done all the adjusting i can do to the prop angle...moved my batteries a hundred times.still nothing.as far as the hatch goes,i tape it down on every run,but if it breaks it breaks,ill just buy another boat if the canopy isnt available.lol. Im to the point now,that if this rudder setup doesnt work,ill get rid of the boat and buy something else

JackBlack26
03-27-2011, 01:15 PM
This "mod" is such a waste of money!! I don't know why people keep buying in to it, lol

lectriglide
03-27-2011, 02:38 PM
This "mod" is such a waste of money!! I don't know why people keep buying in to it, lol

Jack
It's a $20 mod. By the way, the designer of the boat says its "DEFINITELY a worthwhile mod", so I'm guessing that's why most people do it. Keep in mind most folks are running it with the stock motor, so there is really no disputing it works. You may not see the need for it since you are running different and more powerful motors. Darin also said that speed makes the "wah wah" go away, so you may not see the need for it 'cause you've got yours cookin. :Peace_Sign:

JackBlack26
03-27-2011, 03:32 PM
Darin also said that the mod is mainly for racing purposes where getting rid of prop wash makes a big difference, making steering more responsive.

If you ran your batteries 9.5 to 9.75" from the transom forward, you wouldn't need to offset the rudder. IMO, the boat bounces because we all set the batteries to far back causing the boat to try and balance it's self while running, slapping the water instead, causing the bouncing we get. Place the batteries at 9" to center, from the transom forward like stated on the manual and adjust them forward from there. The farther away from the transom you set them, the less the boat will bounce. We all want as much speed out of the stock boat as possible making us run the boat dry, which IMO is why it bounces. Run it a bit wet and the bouncing goes away. I rather have a good running boat than try and gain .2 MPH with a boat that annoyingly bounces as it runs.

My $.2
:beerchug:

LiPo Power
03-27-2011, 05:50 PM
I installed my offset, got M445 ( stock on the picture ) on 4S, stock motor, 120Amp esc with batteries forward or back and I have no bouncing so to my boat theory about 9" makes no diference and offset makes the bouncing go away... my3C

bbosncali
03-27-2011, 06:50 PM
What's the difference between version 1 and version 2 besides the lower part of the bracket being cut off?

JackBlack26
03-27-2011, 11:46 PM
What's the difference between version 1 and version 2 besides the lower part of the bracket being cut off?That is the difference.



I installed my offset, got M445 ( stock on the picture ) on 4S, stock motor, 120Amp esc with batteries forward or back and I have no bouncing so to my boat theory about 9" makes no diference and offset makes the bouncing go away... my3C
What?I don't speak Yoda:confused2:

:rofl:

LiPo Power
03-28-2011, 12:15 PM
What I am saying is that moving battery back and forward did not make any diference to my boat in terms of bouncing.
When my offset was installed bouncing was gone so this was my way of getting rid of bouncing....
( english so I hope you got it this time ) :tongue_smilie:








What?I don't speak Yoda:confused2:

Boomer
03-29-2011, 12:18 AM
If it works for your boat, that is a good thing. :thumbup1:
Boomer