How do you replace the caps on a swordfish 240hv?

[millzee]

I still have to replace the caps, I figure I'll somehow remove the swallen caps on the 2nd (mid section of esc) row, and leave the top(easy to get at) row and add the etti cap bank to replace the 2nd row, this would add an additional 2 caps to the unit. My question is, the swollen caps in the middle of the esc will be very hard to get at, will I need to take the esc apart to get at the soldering of the caps or can I just cut them off, then add the etti cap bank to the mid section of the positive and negative poles that run top to bottom through the esc. If anyone has experienced replacing the caps on a sf240 could you please chime in with some assistance??

[Diesel6401]

I still have to replace the caps, I figure I'll somehow remove the swallen caps on the 2nd (mid section of esc) row, and leave the top(easy to get at) row and add the etti cap bank to replace the 2nd row, this would add an additional 2 caps to the unit. My question is, the swollen caps in the middle of the esc will be very hard to get at, will I need to take the esc apart to get at the soldering of the caps or can I just cut them off, then add the etti cap bank to the mid section of the positive and negative poles that run top to bottom through the esc. If anyone has experienced replacing the caps on a sf240 could you please chime in with some assistance??

Leave the caps and just add a etti cap bank. It won't hurt anything leaving the damaged caps.

[millzee]

really? I don't mean to question you, I just thought it was dangerous to run with swollen caps?:confused1:

[LiPo Power]

It is up to you but if the one that is swollen bathering you just cut it out with tiny wire cutter and add etti or simmular cap board to power wires.....

[Punisher 67]

If at all possible can you take a picture of the swordfish 240 both sides with the shrink wrap off and post it................................ A 1000 thanks.................:rockon2:

[millzee]

If at all possible can you take a picture of the swordfish 240 both sides with the shrink wrap off and post it................................ A 1000 thanks.................:rockon2:

The shrink wrap's not a problem, it fell off, I have good video footage of the caps in the last few minutes of this footage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6C-o7MV5Ifk
Just fast forward past the slow, driving Ms Daisy footage and you'll get a lot of good angles of the caps and Esc. From the 9.03 minute mark.

[millzee]

As asked, these are pic's of the sf240hv with no skin.:thumbup1:

[Punisher 67]

Thank you very much , I wanted to know how close to the Schulze 40/160 in size they are .........awesome deal though for the load capability

[millzee]

I am about to tackle this cap bank install and I'm still a little concerned about a few things;
The standard caps on the sf240hv are 63v 330uf x 6= 1980
The Etti cap bank is 63v 1000uf x 5= 5000

Easy option: I leave all the standard caps, including the two that are swallen and discolored on and just attach the cap bank to the battery wires near the solder on the esc. -? Will this be to much capacitance @ 6980uf and will the stock damaged caps go boom sometime soon creating me more headache?

Next option: Remove the inner row of stock caps, including the two damaged and still add the cap bank at the solders from the esc to battery wires. This would give less capacitance @ 5990uf. If so, how do I take this esc apart so I can get into the solders or to even cut the inner row out and if I do get it out will I need to keep that row active from side to side due to the upper/outer row of caps seeming to having a white connection block joining the upper and lower row?

Third option: remove all 6 standard caps and add the etti cap bank to the very bottom at the solder of the esc to battery wires giving a total of 5000uf. Once again, if I do this I would still like to know how to take this esc apart and if the removed cap rows would have to remain active to complete the connection from batteries to esc?

Last option: I give up and take up lawn bowls:glare:,:eek:

Please help:help: (I'm just starting to like this hobby and white just doesn't suit me.)

[millzee]

bump
I am about to tackle this cap bank install and I'm still a little concerned about a few things;
The standard caps on the sf240hv are 63v 330uf x 6= 1980
The Etti cap bank is 63v 1000uf x 5= 5000

Easy option: I leave all the standard caps, including the two that are swallen and discolored on and just attach the cap bank to the battery wires near the solder on the esc. -? Will this be to much capacitance @ 6980uf and will the stock damaged caps go boom sometime soon creating me more headache?

Next option: Remove the inner row of stock caps, including the two damaged and still add the cap bank at the solders from the esc to battery wires. This would give less capacitance @ 5990uf. If so, how do I take this esc apart so I can get into the solders or to even cut the inner row out and if I do get it out will I need to keep that row active from side to side due to the upper/outer row of caps seeming to having a white connection block joining the upper and lower row?

Third option: remove all 6 standard caps and add the etti cap bank to the very bottom at the solder of the esc to battery wires giving a total of 5000uf. Once again, if I do this I would still like to know how to take this esc apart and if the removed cap rows would have to remain active to complete the connection from batteries to esc?

Last option: I give up and take up lawn bowls:glare:,:eek:

Please help:help: (I'm just starting to like this hobby and white just doesn't suit me.)

[LiPo Power]

Option 1. Go with your the last option and get rid of your esc by shipping it to me, I will pay shipping!
Option 2. Get a set of small wire cutters and just cut your caps out, do not open your esc!
Install your new cap bank close to the board on your battery wires and you are back in business....

[millzee]

Option 1. Go with your the last option and get rid of your esc by shipping it to mesent me I will pay shipping!
Option 2. Get a set of small wire cutters and just cut your caps out, do not open your esc!
Install your new cap bank close to the board on your battery wires and you are back in business....

Cool, so I don't need to worry about the curcit with the caps removed, I think I can handle that, If I end up a mangled mess you just may get this thing in the mail, it may be all black, smokey and smelly and may not work but it'l be free!! thanks for your input.:thumbup1:

[LiPo Power]

It will work even if you leave your caps the way they are, without removing them.
Good or bad they will not do any harm to your esc if you leave them.
Just add cap board to battery wires close to the board and it is done!!!
( I do not need your esc, it was a joke )

[millzee]

It will work even if you leave your caps the way they are, without removing them.
Good or bad they will not do any harm to your esc if you leave them.
Just add cap board to battery wires close to the board and it is done!!!
( I do not need your esc, it was a joke )

Thanks for the help, I'll get it done tonight:thumbup:

[LiPo Power]

When you done could you please upload few pictures, close ups if possible, thanks?

[don ferrette]

If I could ask, what set up were you running that torched the stock caps? I've got 2 240HV's that I plan to run 8 and 10S on in hydros.

[millzee]

If I could ask, what set up were you running that torched the stock caps? I've got 2 240HV's that I plan to run 8 and 10S on in hydros.

Just a 1717 on 6s2p 5000mAh, it was only my 2nd run of the boat and it was set up incorrect and running wet, being a newbie I forgot to set my timer and after doing a few "just one more run's" I ended up running for 4m45s. The two caps on the inner row closest to the positive wire took most the punishment and the ends were 239f and had a slight discoloration.

[FRED]

Trouble with leaving them on is , bulky. Now it's apiece of cake to take off and replace the caps. Just do one at a time and look for the blue strip which indicates the polarity. Just use a small cutter and a soldering iron with a pointed tip and take your time. Use same #'s off the old ones when buying new.BTW, what size are the caps? You must have been drawing alot of amps due to running wet and too big a prop.Red wire, check to see if it is soldered on fully. Red wire will always or most always go first.-----**** Lipo power is correct, i just read what he typed.----**** Millzee-nice pictures- job well done-what size caps are those you put on?

[millzee]

When you done could you please upload few pictures, close ups if possible, thanks?

I'll put a few pic's up soon, my parcel didn't arrive as I thought it would so I guess it'll come tomorrow. So just to reiterate: I leave the stock caps on as is and add the etti cap bank, with no problems comming back to bite me in the a$$, yes/no.

[millzee]

Trouble with leaving them on is , bulky. Now it's apiece of cake to take off and replace the caps. Just do one at a time and look for the blue strip which indicates the polarity. Just use a small cutter and a soldering iron with a pointed tip and take your time. Use same #'s off the old ones when buying new.BTW, what size are the caps?

The stock caps on the sf240 are 63v 330uf, I can see how easy it is to remove and replace the top row but the lower row just doesn't have any room to get a solder or cutters in without taking the esc apart. see post #7

[FRED]

When i did mine, i soldered one cap stem like the inside stem and then did the other row so i wouldn't have go inside to solder. While i was soldering, i would strip covering off a 22 gauge wire and slip covering onto either + or - cap wire for insulation for insurance. The key is to leave one row cap wire alittle longer, just enough to get it soldered. I bought heat shrink at LHS. Each has they're own method and as long as it works, great. Use low heat so to not dislodge the others, i know sounds fussy.----**** I forgot, i moved led wires R and B out at an angle and staggered the caps.

[millzee]

When i did mine, i soldered one cap stem like the inside stem and then did the other row so i wouldn't have go inside to solder. While i was soldering, i would strip covering off a 22 gauge wire and slip covering onto either + or - cap wire for insulation for insurance. The key is to leave one row cap wire alittle longer, just enough to get it soldered. I bought heat shrink at LHS. Each has they're own method and as long as it works, great. Use low heat so to not dislodge the others, i know sounds fussy.

Probably the main question that keeps me wondering is if the caps are removed, and I just solder the cap bank to the +/- wires, would the current still get through to the esc ok or would the holes from the removed caps need to be joined somehow?
I'm sorry to drag this out but I'm new to all this and I just don't want to be throwing $250 in the bin because I didn't do something that everyone else thinks is obvious.

[FRED]

Take a look at the ETTI bank showing where they soldered wires onto. BTW, are your connectors 8mm? TTYL

[LiPo Power]

If you add etti cap board to the battery wires it will work exactly the same way as the original caps. They are sitting at the battery power input but they are just solder nicely to the board for proper look. That way they do not take much space....






Probably the main question that keeps me wondering is if the caps are removed, and I just solder the cap bank to the +/- wires, would the current still get through to the esc ok or would the holes from the removed caps need to be joined somehow?
I'm sorry to drag this out but I'm new to all this and I just don't want to be throwing $250 in the bin because I didn't do something that everyone else thinks is obvious.

[millzee]

If you add etti cap board to the battery wires it will work exactly the same way as the original caps. They are sitting at the battery power input but they are just solder nicely to the board for proper look. That way they do not take much space....

cool, I think I've just got to stop thinking and analysing and just start doing, at the moment I'm waiting for the postie like a kid waiting for xmas, been looking out the window like a mad man, I noticed someone signature the other night, something about there's a fine line between hobby and mental illness, I think I know what that means now!:doh::thumbup:

[millzee]

Damn these Etti 63v 1000uf cap banks are huge, I now understand what you guy's have been saying about space saving, I think the stock caps are gunnu have to go but I'll have a play around tonight and see what I can come up with.

[DISAR]

I just had this idea, don't know if it's right or wrong. How about leaving the "legs" of the existing capacitors so cutting only the actual capacitors, and soldering the new capacitors to the existing legs? Rubycon ZL or ZLH series are good.
For the ETTI cap board I think that you can use some pieces of extra wire for +- to solder the board to the esc +- wires as close to the esc as possible.

[millzee]

Well after all that thinking I've finally done it, try it and it worked and didn't catch fire yet( not on the bench anyway). I ended up removing all the stock caps and attached the cap bank to the + & - as suggested, I tried to make sure I didn't cold solder the joint as much as possible and at one point had the board a tad hot and a little smelly but all in all, it's not pretty but it works. Thank you to everyone that helped me through this simple little task, I'm sure I will be able to do them now without wanting you to hold my hand:laugh:

[FRED]

Now you can see what i typed about laying it out flat and being bulky, my hat tips to your work. Those are monsters and you made the best of it. Ok, since you got that mastered, now make a 90 degree hookup for your connectors. Got an idea; oh,no,where the connectors come up make the wire longer and have them come forward over the esc and angle them out alittle and forward. Now if you can do what you did, this would be a piece of cake for you.

[millzee]

Now you can see what i typed about laying it out flat and being bulky, my hat tips to your work. Those are monsters and you made the best of it. Ok, since you got that mastered, now make a 90 degree hookup for your connectors. Got an idea; oh,no,where the connectors come up make the wire longer and have them come forward over the esc and angle them out alittle and forward. Now if you can do what you did, this would be a piece of cake for you.
thanks mate
Gee, great idea, I'll make some up later, that'll take a lot or pressure of the bends.:thumbup1:

[LiPo Power]

Wicked job, way to go....

[Hpr115uk]

Do remove the damaged caps , leaving them is a bad idea . Sorry if this contradicts previous posts but when they are swollen they are damaged internally . They CAN go short circuit .

[millzee]

Thanks for the tip Fred, I made up the leads tonight and they'll make life a lot easier, I just added a heap of solder to the last 1/2 inch of wire, cooled it, put it in the vice and bent it to 90degrees, then when adding the 8mm connector I heated the bend and added a heap more solder to add strength. I hope this work well enough.:thumbup1: I still need to change most of my batteries from ec5's to 8mm as you'll see in the last pic.