Not Looking Good

[motoxbob11]

Just got done ordering a new flex cable and teflon liner and other stuff from Steven after I pulled out a totally bent one from my new SV. Stuffing tube needs to be realligned. The tube also spins around with only the slightest effort with a pair of pliers! Do you guys just pull the whole thing out and start over or what has been the procedure to get them right?

[Bill-SOCAL]

What exactly do you mean by "totally bent"?

And are you talking about the flex cable and/or the stuffing tube??

[motoxbob11]

The flex cable has been badly bent at the end by the motor coupler. The stuffing tube also doesn't line up with the coupler. The cable looks like it was shoved in at an angle and got twisted.

[mr.mauian]

you have to remember to lube it all up and make sure you have like a 1/8 th gap from the end of the strut to the drive dog. Sounds like you had a bind which could have been caused by the flex cable not having enough play like I mentioned above.

[motoxbob11]

I never even plugged the batteries in it! This is how it came from the factory. It was almost impossible to get out. I'm gonna mail it to Steven so he can see it LOL. Thats ok I didn't expect a Toysport for 270 dollars but they just threw this thing together.

[Mich. Maniac]

wow mr. mauian you leave 1/8" gap. I never thought about it. Thanks for the tip. I just received a order containing 2 thrust bearings. you suggest running them on drive shaft or motor shaft? The reason I am wondering is cause I didnt know if they were stainless to be in the water.

[H&MWill]

I run mine on the motor shaft. Dont know which way is right but this works well for me.

[sjslhill]

:cursing: China junk



I never even plugged the batteries in it! This is how it came from the factory. It was almost impossible to get out. I'm gonna mail it to Steven so he can see it LOL. Thats ok I didn't expect a Toysport for 270 dollars but they just threw this thing together.

[motoxbob11]

Ha Ha I think you are right but I'm gona try to fix it with parts from Steven. I'm going to change the whole motor mount system anyway and if it doesn't work I'll just bolt on a merc outboard like RCPrince!

[motoxbob11]

Just got the replacement flex shaft from OSE for my SV...in TWO days! This is a must-have for any SV owner. Top quality and perfect construction. Thanks Steven.

[sjslhill]

It's a shame that you have to rebuild a new boat to make it work.

[motoxbob11]

They should have sold it as a kit. Pre-cut wood parts, BL system, good hardware all for 280 dollars. A fun build and the end result is a good running boat. Especially with some Battlepack Li-Po batteries in it! (My order is coming soon)

[Dale Koblitz]

I also had an allignment issue with my new SV. My port side trim tab was also 1/8" high. And the boot that comes out of the radio box had a big tear in it. And the clear coat is like missing in a bunch of places. There is between a 1/8 and a 1/4" of play in the motor shaft if you push and pull on it. One last thing, when I arm my radio it makes like a 2 tone beep instead of single beeps? When you guys arm your esc does it sound like 2 beeps togeather or is it clearly a single beep? It does arm it just doesn't sound like a single beep like the manual says? Then since the water is frozen here I put it in the bathtub to test it out and throttle it but if I go over 3/4 throttle it beeps and then shuts off or something? It could be my cheap venom batterys I have in it till I get my lipo's. I would just send it back but I didn't notice half this stuff till after I sealed up all the wood and put a thin layer of glass resign on the floor to strengthen it up. The worst part is I can't test it till spring after the warrenty is up.

[Rex R]

we've seen worse... while you 'wait' is a good time to presure test your cooling system and correct any leaks.

[sjslhill]

I have seen just about everything....

Leaking hulls, leaking water cooling, broken shafts, mis-alinged shafts, broken radio, bad ESC, bad motor, warped hulls, bad props. Nice product. I wonder if we could sell batteries that need work on them before you use them.

The worse part is they give some people boats and before you know it, all the racing rules for LSO are centered around that boat.

[Mich. Maniac]

OR... They could take it off the market and go back to their overbuilt, slow, heavy. plastic boats that are fun for about 10 minutes and You guys wouldnt have to worry about it anymore. Jeez take it easy guys. we are here to help eachother with advise and tips. NOT scare new people away. Maybe its just the weather. everyone cooped up inside but just too much negativity for such a nice product that is just breaking ground to whats to come. :patriot:

[SJFE]

My brothers SV had a problem like this. It looks like the tube rolled over to the right before the epoxy ot glue set. He is pulling it for a reset this weekend.

[Fast Guy]

One last thing, when I arm my radio it makes like a 2 tone beep instead of single beeps? When you guys arm your esc does it sound like 2 beeps togeather or is it clearly a single beep? It does arm it just doesn't sound like a single beep like the manual says? Then since the water is frozen here I put it in the bathtub to test it out and throttle it but if I go over 3/4 throttle it beeps and then shuts off or something? It could be my cheap venom batterys I have in it till I get my lipo's. I would just send it back but I didn't notice half this stuff till after I sealed up all the wood and put a thin layer of glass resign on the floor to strengthen it up. The worst part is I can't test it till spring after the warrenty is up.

This happened to me also. The brake function of the ESC has been activated. AquaCraft doesn't mention this in the manual as this is an aircraft function of the ESC. To turn the brake function off follow the instructions below. Throttle stick is the same as throttle trigger on your remote.

BRAKE FUNCTION: The factory default brake setting is “off”.
Skip to the “ESC OPERATION” section below if you want to
keep this setting. To turn the brake “on”:
1. Move the throttle stick to full throttle, turn on the transmitter
and connect the battery to the ESC.
2. After 5 seconds the motor will beep twice.
3. Move the throttle stick to the off position (towards you). The
motor will beep twice.
4. Again move the throttle stick to full power. The motor will
beep twice to confirm the brake is now “on”.
5. Move the throttle stick back to off. The motor will now beep
four times indicating the motor is “armed”.
To turn the brake off, repeat the above process. This time the
motor will only beep once with each stick movement, but will
beep four times again at the end to indicate the ESC is armed.
Once the brake is set, it does not require resetting after the
ESC has been switched off.
ESC OPERATION
1. Turn the transmitter’s power on.
2. Move the throttle stick to the off or brake position (towards you).
3. Connect the battery to the ESC. The motor will beep to
indicate the brake setting (once for off, twice for on).

[motoxbob11]

OR... They could take it off the market and go back to their overbuilt, slow, heavy. plastic boats that are fun for about 10 minutes and You guys wouldnt have to worry about it anymore. Jeez take it easy guys. we are here to help eachother with advise and tips. NOT scare new people away. Maybe its just the weather. everyone cooped up inside but just too much negativity for such a nice product that is just breaking ground to whats to come. :patriot:

Oh yea I'm happy overall it was worth the money but a kit would be a great learning tool for a newcomer. There doesn't seem to be anyone who sells a kit and it makes it intimidating to search for a hull and hardware and everything else when you are new to the gobby.
We ARE here to help and I'll help by saying when you order an SV, order an OSE flex shaft at the same time. You won't be sorry.

[Dale Koblitz]

This happened to me also. The brake function of the ESC has been activated. AquaCraft doesn't mention this in the manual as this is an aircraft function of the ESC. To turn the brake function off follow the instructions below. Throttle stick is the same as throttle trigger on your remote.

BRAKE FUNCTION: The factory default brake setting is “off”.
Skip to the “ESC OPERATION” section below if you want to
keep this setting. To turn the brake “on”:
1. Move the throttle stick to full throttle, turn on the transmitter
and connect the battery to the ESC.
2. After 5 seconds the motor will beep twice.
3. Move the throttle stick to the off position (towards you). The
motor will beep twice.
4. Again move the throttle stick to full power. The motor will
beep twice to confirm the brake is now “on”.
5. Move the throttle stick back to off. The motor will now beep
four times indicating the motor is “armed”.
To turn the brake off, repeat the above process. This time the
motor will only beep once with each stick movement, but will
beep four times again at the end to indicate the ESC is armed.
Once the brake is set, it does not require resetting after the
ESC has been switched off.
ESC OPERATION
1. Turn the transmitter’s power on.
2. Move the throttle stick to the off or brake position (towards you).
3. Connect the battery to the ESC. The motor will beep to
indicate the brake setting (once for off, twice for on).

Thank you so much! I bet this happened when I was trying to arm my JR radio system. It would have been nice for aquacraft to have put this in the manual. I'm going to try to set it back right now. I'll let you know if it works. I posted this over in RCU and everyone thought I was crazy or something. Thanks again for the much appreciated help.
Peace,
Yes, it worked just like you said. Did this happen to you, how did you know about this? This saved me some annoying phone time with customer service. I still have a problem with it stopping if I give it over half throttle quick though? All I have right now is some cheap venom batteries that I rebuilt sxs with deans: bars, noodle, and connectors. But never the less they are junk batteries and they have been overheated and hissed at me once or twice while running them in my truck with a mamba max 5700 system trying to pull 100 amps from them. One peaks at like 9.6 and the other at like 8. something but I don't know about them. I am going to get a couple 2s 5000 lipo's and a low-volt cut-off before spring. I have a couple maxamps 3s 5000's but I think I would fry the esc with those. Someone on youtube told me they run a 2s along with a 3s for a total of 5s and the boat fly's. I will probably try this. My stuff tube is only slightly out of allignment with the coupler but since I allready put a layer of apoxy on the floor and wood to stiffen it up it would be vary hard to move it now. It's only like maybe 1/16 off to the port side. Do you guys think this is a lowvolt cut-off because of the weak batterys causing it to trip when I gun it while holding the boat? It seams like if I hold the back of the boat up so the prop pierces the surface it doesn't seem to trip it. Well I didn't get all the way to full throttle because I didn't whant to soak the bathroom but it seemed better. So I'm thinking maybe between the crap batterys and the added resistance of holding the boat in place it's causing low-volt or thermal cut-off? Anyone else have any thoughts on this? I'm afraid to try it out of water because I've heard BL motors shouldn't be ran w/o any resistance even though I've had my car's wheels spinning full throttle without a load many times showing off the way the wheels expand. I have ran the boat out of the water with little bursts of throttle for like a secong but I don't think I ever gave it WOT out of the water. Is there any way I can test to see if it's the batterys? I couldn't run 1 or 2 of those 3s 5000's could I? By the time the water thaws out this spring the warrenty will be expired so I would like to make sure it's not the esc? Could it be the added resistance of the missallignment of the stuff tube? Sorry I tend to ramble on but I whant to describe what's going on the best I can while I got someones attention.
Thank's
Dale "Scott" Koblitz
Scott

[Fast Guy]

Thank you so much! I bet this happened when I was trying to arm my JR radio system. It would have been nice for aquacraft to have put this in the manual. I'm going to try to set it back right now. I'll let you know if it works. I posted this over in RCU and everyone thought I was crazy or something. Thanks again for the much appreciated help.
Peace,
Yes, it worked just like you said. Did this happen to you, how did you know about this? This saved me some annoying phone time with customer service. I still have a problem with it stopping if I give it over half throttle quick though? All I have right now is some cheap venom batteries that I rebuilt sxs with deans: bars, noodle, and connectors. But never the less they are junk batteries and they have been overheated and hissed at me once or twice while running them in my truck with a mamba max 5700 system trying to pull 100 amps from them. One peaks at like 9.6 and the other at like 8. something but I don't know about them. I am going to get a couple 2s 5000 lipo's and a low-volt cut-off before spring. I have a couple maxamps 3s 5000's but I think I would fry the esc with those. Someone on youtube told me they run a 2s along with a 3s for a total of 5s and the boat fly's. I will probably try this. My stuff tube is only slightly out of allignment with the coupler but since I allready put a layer of apoxy on the floor and wood to stiffen it up it would be vary hard to move it now. It's only like maybe 1/16 off to the port side. Do you guys think this is a lowvolt cut-off because of the weak batterys causing it to trip when I gun it while holding the boat? It seams like if I hold the back of the boat up so the prop pierces the surface it doesn't seem to trip it. Well I didn't get all the way to full throttle because I didn't whant to soak the bathroom but it seemed better. So I'm thinking maybe between the crap batterys and the added resistance of holding the boat in place it's causing low-volt or thermal cut-off? Anyone else have any thoughts on this? I'm afraid to try it out of water because I've heard BL motors shouldn't be ran w/o any resistance even though I've had my car's wheels spinning full throttle without a load many times showing off the way the wheels expand. I have ran the boat out of the water with little bursts of throttle for like a secong but I don't think I ever gave it WOT out of the water. Is there any way I can test to see if it's the batterys? I couldn't run 1 or 2 of those 3s 5000's could I? By the time the water thaws out this spring the warrenty will be expired so I would like to make sure it's not the esc? Could it be the added resistance of the missallignment of the stuff tube? Sorry I tend to ramble on but I whant to describe what's going on the best I can while I got someones attention.
Thank's
Dale "Scott" Koblitz
Scott

If your batteries are weak then you are most likely hitting the low voltage cutoff under heavy load. You could try one 3s lipo but not two. We have 2 SV's. The stuffing tube was misaligned on one and OK on the other. It came loose easily and I epoxied it in the correct position. This is a common complaint.

[Dale Koblitz]

Well as far as the tube goes it's barely out of allignment and it's definately not going to be easy to realign it since the entire floor, all the wood, and yes the stuffing tube has a coat of fiberglass resign on it. I thought it was alligned perfectly when I did that but when I whent to put the flex shaft back in I realized it's not perfect. Now It's going to be very hard to move it or replace it if ever needed. I'm sure it's possible but I'm not going to mess with it unless it causes extra heat or binding. Could I run 1 of those 3s lipo's and 1 ni/mh pack just to test the cut-off theory or should I just put a piece of wire accross the extra connector to finish the circuit while running 1 lipo?

[motoxbob11]

we've seen worse... while you 'wait' is a good time to presure test your cooling system and correct any leaks.

When I get done rebuilding it I would love to do a pressure test but I don't know how! What method do you use to test it? I can just see the thing filling up with water in the first minute of running due to a leak.

[Rex R]

easy way... take the top off the radio box(so you can follow the cooling lines),get a turkey baster and connect it to the line from the rudder fill the baster w/ water, give it a gentle squeeze to fill the system. if there are no fountains or other leaks... move on to step 2, put a finger over the outlet and gently apply presure(don't need a lot of water presure) the main areas to check; the brass fittings for the esc cooler and the water jacket on the motor.

[motoxbob11]

easy way... take the top off the radio box(so you can follow the cooling lines),get a turkey baster and connect it to the line from the rudder fill the baster w/ water, give it a gentle squeeze to fill the system. if there are no fountains or other leaks... move on to step 2, put a finger over the outlet and gently apply presure(don't need a lot of water presure) the main areas to check; the brass fittings for the esc cooler and the water jacket on the motor.

Thats a great idea it will give me a lot of peace of mind on the first run. (Which will be a long time from now unfortunately. It's winter in the Sierras also.)

[Bill-SOCAL]

I use a hand crank fuel pump that I had laying around. Crank slowly at first and then really stress the system turning it fast!!

[Dale Koblitz]

Could I run 1 of those 3s lipo's and 1 ni/mh pack just to test the cut-off theory or should I just put a piece of wire accross the extra connector to finish the circuit while running 1 lipo?

[offshore1]

The ESC cut-out you are experiencing may be from holding the boat in place while pulling the throttle. The extra load on the motor from shoving all that water could be something like using a prop that is way to aggressive.

That is just a thought. The only way to know for sure is to run the boat in open water. I hope all turns out well for you. I am curious to know what happens.

[Dale Koblitz]

That was exactly my thought and it is partially that but the batterys I was using are the real issue because I ran it on 1 3s lipo which is less volts then the 2 ni/mh's I was running and it has more power and doesn't cut-off. So I just need some new batteries. I'm ordering some 2s 5000 20c's then I can run 4s 5000hv 20c or 5s 5000hv 20c's with one of my 3s's I allready have! I bet I'll be getting close to 50 with that 2p5s set-up!