help with project geico

[shannon87]

hi all sorry about my multiple thread but i keep changing my mind. But now after alot of thinking im going with a miss geico which hopefully i can pick up in a few weeks.
But i was going to change a few things for added reliability and handling with some personal touches. Since all of them except 2 are from kintec racing i was going to order eveything at once to save shipping.

They will consist of an offset rudder bracket, new motor cooler, after esc coolers,6.5mm bullets,blue water line,2 y fittings and a hull through fitting.

The other two things ill be gettin is a decent prop and esc programmer i want to use 2x 2s 2200 mah 25-50 c nano techs dues to being able to have a max of 5000mah and a max weight of 150 g per cell.

Any help and thoughts will be great thanks

[JackBlack26]

The offset rudder is not necessary unless that's what you want to do. Our group runs 4 Geico's and only 1 has a offset rudder. The other 3 of us don't notice a difference and neither does the guy with the offset rudder.

The programmer is a must because the ESC comes set for NIMH.

If you're planning on running 2 2200 batts in series you will not increase the MAH as you're expecting and it will not be enough to power the boat and they may catch on fire due to being over drawn. You need weight inside this boat! I cant express that enough. I run 2, 4S 5000 mah packs in parallel in mine and it handles like a dream. Running them in series multiplies the voltage. Running them in parallel multiplies the MAH.

Hope that helps some.

[PDR447]

yes, as jackblack mentioned if you want to double the mah(parallel connection) you need to go with 4s packs. if you want to run 2s packs you need to wire in series and buy bigger mah packs.

why a new motor cooler? and why are you getting a Y connector? not really understanding your plans.

[shannon87]

hi both thanks for the help first with my pack options im still learnin lol but basically i can only have a max of 14.8v to the motor not sure about milliamp restrictions if that helps.

And with the offset rudder there was just several reports even from darin jordan that the mod helped with handling and bouncing so thought it would be good.

And with the motor cooler it was just to add customisation and the y fittings were to split the water line as i was going to have 2 lines going through the T180 esc and then to the motor and have 2 coming out and then back into one more of a customisation than anything sorry about the confusion.

[Diesel6401]

hi both thanks for the help first with my pack options im still learnin lol but basically i can only have a max of 14.8v to the motor not sure about milliamp restrictions if that helps.

And with the offset rudder there was just several reports even from darin jordan that the mod helped with handling and bouncing so thought it would be good.

And with the motor cooler it was just to add customisation and the y fittings were to split the water line as i was going to have 2 lines going through the T180 esc and then to the motor and have 2 coming out and then back into one more of a customisation than anything sorry about the confusion.

Stay away from the "T" connectors. I understand your though process and idea, but don't use them in your boat. You would be better just connecting 1 side of the cooling to the other side of the cooling on the t180.


http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff484/Diesel6401/RC%20Boats/2010-10-02182616.jpg

[shannon87]

thanks yer it was just to customise using the y splitters as the jacket im getting has holes for four connections and i thought it would look cool with two going in and two going out lol im just tryin to find little cool ways to add my unique touches i dunno theres somethin about the way a cooling system is set up looks cool to me

[Diesel6401]

thanks yer it was just to customise using the y splitters as the jacket im getting has holes for four connections and i thought it would look cool with two going in and two going out lol im just tryin to find little cool ways to add my unique touches i dunno theres somethin about the way a cooling system is set up looks cool to me

I understand that, but "y" connectors normally do more harm then good. I would stay away, if you want to customize use different color cooling line and add a different paint job. At the end of the day it's your boat and you can ultimately do whatever you want but there are other ways that will be better IMO...

[rchuntlsl]

I understand that, but "y" connectors normally do more harm then good. I would stay away, if you want to customize use different color cooling line and add a different paint job. At the end of the day it's your boat and you can ultimately do whatever you want but there are other ways that will be better IMO...

Why do the Y connectors do more harm than good? I have used them and have not seen any problems. Just wondering, I may want to re route my cooling.

[dana]

Why do the Y connectors do more harm than good? I have used them and have not seen any problems. Just wondering, I may want to re route my cooling.

because water always takes the path of least resistance, meaning it may take one route over another in the "Y" and the other side will not get good flow

[shannon87]

that makes sense maybe have one line goin in the esc and splitting to the motor goes into the motor then come out as two and back into one which shouldnt matter as both lines go into one source so it shouldnt make that much difference as the same amount of water should get there of course purely for aesthetics

[dana]

whatever you decide, keep it simple. function over looks

[JackBlack26]

hi both thanks for the help first with my pack options im still learnin lol but basically i can only have a max of 14.8v to the motor not sure about milliamp restrictions if that helps.

And with the offset rudder there was just several reports even from darin jordan that the mod helped with handling and bouncing so thought it would be good.

And with the motor cooler it was just to add customisation and the y fittings were to split the water line as i was going to have 2 lines going through the T180 esc and then to the motor and have 2 coming out and then back into one more of a customisation than anything sorry about the confusion.

The esc has a limitation of 5S with the use of an external power source for the steering servo such as a BEC or a battery pack. The MAH does not matter. My boat does not bounce anymore but then again running a Castle 2650 on4s 2p. The consensus amongst out group is that the faster the boat goes the less it tnds to bounce. Mine does not bounce at all. It has nothing to do with the rudder. As mentioned, using a Y will cause the water to go where there is least resistance. I note you stay away from them as well. But like diesel said, it's your boat. Have fun!

[Diesel6401]

because water always takes the path of least resistance, meaning it may take one route over another in the "Y" and the other side will not get good flow

:iagree:



whatever you decide, keep it simple. function over looks

Bullseye!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


*To add, having "Y" connectors add the places water can leak into the hull and their is no way to tell if you have a blockage. If it was my boat. I know I would not add them just for looks... When the boat is all taped up and in the water your not going to see it anyway, you want a boat that works properly or one that's going to win a beauty contest for best interior design... Decals, Paint, colored cooling hoses, easiest and best way to add your own personnel touch.

[shannon87]

thanks guys you make a great point i think i will just add exterior touches but still have a new motor cooler and neaten up the interior as its still a way of customisation while minimising leaks thanks

[rchuntlsl]

makes some sense, might have to change mine around.

[shannon87]

hi thanks for replyin in regards to the boat having less bounce while goin faster the prob is im limited to 4s so it seems to be a good startin place with the bracket and lots of tuning lol.

And im hopefully getting help from bone war on an interesting mod thats under wraps lol that ill be doin after a while once i get the hang of things but ill replace the bullets and motor connectors to 5.5 mm bullets

[pyroM!KE]

I just put on a kinetic offset v2 rudder on my MG..Stock I couldnt get the bounce out..Installed the v2 rudder and the bounce entirely went away..I say go for the offset rudder..Get the v2..

[shannon87]

thats sounds great thats what alot of people ay as the v1 would increase drag as the bottom of the bracket is not machined away hopefully i should be getting the geico in a bout a month i cant wait. I was also wondering what would be a good prop to start with dont worry about that as it seems to be an x642

But im gunna leave it tock as to not void the warranty i was going to use turnigy lipos a there a good price, 40c but are 4mm bullets so id either have to get jan from kintec make deans to 4mm bullet adaptors or find some reasonable priced lipos that have deans but it dont matter about weight as i can use those in a different boat does any one know of reasonable lipos with deans but ill replace all connectors to 5.5 mm bullets and other things when the warranty expires and that way i can run it while im waiting for parts and learning to drive.

I know this is the opposit of what you guys would do but it would save me getting different packs and would also save me getting adaptors which is another thing that would increase resistance and go wrong and i could get deans connectors done on the turnigys at my LHS that way i can use those packs and not use adaptors