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View Full Version : water resistant air scoop idea



DyrtyByrd
02-20-2011, 11:43 AM
not sure if this is the right place to post this but just wanted to share this idea and see what you guys think of it, its a ventalation scoop for the top of our offshore racers
sorry for the crappy paint graphics

hazegry
02-20-2011, 11:54 AM
its not a bad idea until the boat flips over. why do you need the ventilation?

hyrulejedi86
02-20-2011, 01:14 PM
its not a bad idea until the boat flips over. why do you need the ventilation?

+1 on that!

Fluid
02-20-2011, 03:24 PM
Other than the obvious posted above, you need to get the air out once you have it in. With forward-facing scoops only, you will get little air into the hull. You need at least the same area for air to get out as you need for it to get in.

But I like the idea and it could work well on boats which have little chance of flipping. I tried NACA ducts years ago to keep out water, but they don't work too well scaled down to our size.


.

BILL OXIDEAN
03-15-2011, 08:54 PM
I've had air intake chines stabalize my boat.
They werent for ventilation, they were part of the deck structure.

ray schrauwen
03-16-2011, 09:19 PM
Use your 3rd channel to open & close a water sealed panel preventing water from coming in if it flips.

Keep closed all the time, around 3 minute mark open it up using 3rd channel for an few seconds while running and then shut it again. It doesn't take long to vent out the old air and this way the hull stays sealed if you flip it.

I can't do much for you if you flip it with the panel open.

I like your idea though!!

scoota
04-11-2011, 11:05 PM
i have been working on venting a hatch with a 3rd channel & two micro servos , im testing some switches that that trigger in a roll over , we use a bigger version on our tanker trucks at work in the event of an roll over all power is cut to the truck . but im using it in reverse on the hatch in the event of a flip the servos are powered up to close ..

dont slow down
04-20-2011, 09:17 PM
I was thinking about using some form of a modified auto bailer, something where when the boat is right side up the ball is down and the tube is open. If the boat flips then the water pressure pushes the ball up or against a seal, keeping the water out.

ray schrauwen
04-20-2011, 11:38 PM
Very cool, natural mechanics.

Alexgar
04-21-2011, 12:35 AM
I did something like this in my fastech with aluminum rams in and out of the radio box of my proboat cost me a mom esc fortunately cc fixed it then I sold it

Simon.O.
04-21-2011, 05:19 AM
I have done something that is similar but without being water resistant !

I made the motor compartment in the rigger water proof from the rest of the tub and presto an air cooled OR motor that get a good splash each time it launches.
Once I get it setup right the motor may get drip/spray fed water from the esc cooling circuit.

see my thread here
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=22903

I may even do it to the big Cat !

Boaterguy
04-24-2011, 04:36 PM
I still don't understand the use of this, extra weight, extra air resistance, and to do what? put heavier, cooler air in? I don't mean to sound like a jerk, I just didn't know how to word it.

martno1fan
04-26-2011, 06:39 PM
Usual ratio for air in to air out is 1 in 3 out ,so if you have 2 vents with air coming in then you need 6 outlets to let the air out.I dont see the need for it on an electric boat where water cooling is used,only reason we use air vents on gas is to allow the motor to breath,not needed for electrics :sorry: .....:zip-up::zip-up:.
Mart

dont slow down
04-26-2011, 08:09 PM
Well in my case my motors are outrunners and the mounts do not have water cooling, therefore they get pretty hot. So some cooler air inside the hull would do my motors some good.

Boaterguy
04-26-2011, 08:52 PM
I see, I guess with the lack of water cooling some other methods are needed

wparsons
04-26-2011, 10:03 PM
I have done something that is similar but without being water resistant !

I made the motor compartment in the rigger water proof from the rest of the tub and presto an air cooled OR motor that get a good splash each time it launches.
Once I get it setup right the motor may get drip/spray fed water from the esc cooling circuit.

see my thread here
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=22903

I may even do it to the big Cat !

There was a small 6 cell nicad cat designed that way (may have been a Jay Turner design, can't remember though). The motor and batteries were in an open bay with a sealed radio box.

http://www.airagestore.com/plans/rc-boats/electric/the-xl-cat.html

I bet that boat could be turned into a really quick indoor spec racer with the better battery/motor technology out today.

martno1fan
04-27-2011, 02:58 AM
Well in my case my motors are outrunners and the mounts do not have water cooling, therefore they get pretty hot. So some cooler air inside the hull would do my motors some good.

Why not water cool the mounts ?

dont slow down
04-27-2011, 12:39 PM
I can't, the mounts don't have cooling ports built in and even if I made some attachment it wouldn't do much since it's an outrunner.

Here are the mounts I have.
http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=1963

785boats
04-27-2011, 02:14 PM
Don't slow down.
I don't know why you think water cooled mounts on outrunners wouldn't do much. They do a helluva lot.
With the mounts you already have in the boat, why not try just bolting on the aluminium part of this mount to the front of the motor. If space is limited you could even cut the 'wings' off where the mounting screws attach the side plates. They won't be needed.
I always use some heat transfer silicon between the motors & mounting plates for added efficiency.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80100
Just think it would be a cheap easy fix for you.
Paul.

dont slow down
04-27-2011, 04:53 PM
I'm not saying water cooled motor mounts won't do anything, I'm saying mine won't. There is nowhere to run water through them. My motor mounts are a clamp style. My motors don't have mounting holes to screw anything onto so the mount you posted won't work either. Eventually (and I do mean eventually) I will replace the motors and at that point I'll get water cooled mounts and motors that can be water cooled, but until that day I was just toying with the idea of air cooling them, wouldn't need to be a lot, just a little. That's why I was thinking of the auto bailer and how I could incorperate those kind of physics into a air vent that sealed if turned upside down.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/dd70b0b4.jpg

Simon.O.
04-28-2011, 06:41 AM
I have said it before on many threads.
There comes a time when we must ask ourselves this: Just how much cooling do I need. If I need so much cooling then is there a way to reduce the need to do so.
Yes there is !

I am not one to pour water on good ideas as I have had a few good ideas that have been helped along by some very talented people here.

Air cooling can be done and I have proven it. There are many ways to cool and we sometimes must go back to basics and ask: Just how much cooling do I need and is there a better way to do this, such as review the whole setup ?

Let the air scoops roll as I have at least two hulls that will get them soon.:thumbup1: