FE 30 Rigged for P-Sport Hydro

[properchopper]

Thanks to the generosity of my racing benefactor, Mr. Michaud, I got to build a dedicated P-Sport FE 30 to compliment my FE 30 P-Spec LSH boat.

Borrowing the 1515 1Y & T180 from my Vegas, I decided to go solid & sturdy with the components. The front-mount motor mount Jeff supplies for the FE 30's is super strong so I went with it, although I added a 3/32" ply base for added rigidity. I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

Because I wasn't sure of battery/batteries placement, I used 90 degree fittings on the SC to allow room for dual batteries on the side if I need the extra capacity, and 4S 4000 Turnigy Nanos fit beside the SC should I choose to go this route.

[more pictures in following posts]

[properchopper]

Using the OSE servo mount made a clean install, and am using my new GTB-3 Rx with an internal antenna post .

Alternate battery placements ; will do some mah consumption runs this weekend to see whether one or two batteries will be the deal.

[properchopper]

Since this boat will operate in the treacherous 60+ mph zone, I thought I'd make some hatch-retainment tabs - although my Spec FE 30 NEVER hinted of a blowover I just wanted some extra insurance.

Will begin testing this weekend. Stay tuned :Peace_Sign:

[LarrysDrifter]

Nice build Mr.Chopper.The components look well layed out.

[johnf]

That is a killer build T. Love the green! Really dresses the hull up nice.

[ray schrauwen]

Beefy motor mount, very nice build.

[properchopper]

That is a killer build T. Love the green! Really dresses the hull up nice.

Thanks John. I like the green too, even though I'm not Irish ( 'tho I once got pretty soused on St. Paddy's Day :crying:)

[Chuck E Cheese]

what fittings are you using on the esc? i have never had luck removing the stock ones. are you drilling the stock fittings out and taping them?

[txboatpilot]

Tony,

Looks KILLER!! I am going to pick up a FE30 & FE mono from Jeff here soon.. I really like the green on white,, very nice! Cant wait too see some video of this bad boy..:thumbup1:

How do you like those 180a esc's?

Here is a picture of my new Insane G3 Cat,, finishing it this weekend!

[properchopper]

what fittings are you using on the esc? i have never had luck removing the stock ones. are you drilling the stock fittings out and taping them?

I'm using the fittings from Kintec Racing. 5 bucks each, but well worth it - makes installing the T-180 cleaner, and in the case of my tunnel, possible. The threads in the T-180, oddly enough, are 10-32. The SC in the tunnel was easy; grabbed the stock fittings with a vice-grip & unscrewed. The SC for the FE 30 bollixed - two fittings broke off in the cooling plate :cursing:. I tried to tap threads but the tap wouldn't bite into the brass inside the plate. Luckily I had a bonkered T-180 to use as a plate donor. Best to apply some heat around the fittings before attempting to unscrew them !

Of course, it would be nice if HK would re-design the fitting configuration of the T-180 to accommodate better water line routing, but ....

[properchopper]

Tony,

Looks KILLER!! I am going to pick up a FE30 & FE mono from Jeff here soon.. I really like the green on white,, very nice! Cant wait too see some video of this bad boy..:thumbup1:

How do you like those 180a esc's?

Here is a picture of my new Insane G3 Cat,, finishing it this weekend!

Rich,

Both Mark and myself have had good luck with the T-180's. Need to program the LVC to "disable" to avoid glitching, 'tho.

Every weekend at Legg there's a group of G3's play racing and they Rock ! You'll really have good times with yours.

I'm waiting for a motor from Neu for the mono; 'till then I'm focusing on my five class entries for WW VII in AZ end of the month :eek:

May have vid of the new FE-30 build tomorrow.

[Chuck E Cheese]

ya that is what happened to me to tony. 2 of them snap and i have been fortionate enough that i dont have any burned t180's (i own about 8 of them). i was trying to get it in a rigger so i ended up swaping the coolong plate for one i had and using it in another boat. the plate is way to small but it is a verry mild set-up that probablly doesnt even need to be cooled. if anyone has a top cap please let me know...

[properchopper]

ya that is what happened to me to tony. 2 of them snap and i have been fortionate enough that i dont have any burned t180's (i own about 8 of them). i was trying to get it in a rigger so i ended up swaping the coolong plate for one i had and using it in another boat. the plate is way to small but it is a verry mild set-up that probablly doesnt even need to be cooled. if anyone has a top cap please let me know...

Here's a little experiment I'll perform when I have time ( under the heading of mental gymnastics :doh:) A heat sink donated from a junked computer, which is EXACTLY the same dimensions as the top plate. Enclosed & plumbed, should do the trick. Then again, methinks that if one needs that much cooling the setup should be re-thought. Oh well...

[Brushless55]

Tony, that esc looks like a perfect fit for cars and trucks! :beerchug:

[rearwheelin]

[QUOTE=properchopper;282906] Tony might I recomend before unscrewing the brass, get some of that liquid nitrogen that they use in that over the counter single treatment wart remover , it freezes sub zero:rofl:Just like how ferarri inserts valve seats by dipping them in liquid nitrogen then pressing them to the block then they expande.......:thumbup1:...Sorry man just trying to help out...lol.....PS this will be my next boat and his hardware is BADAS$...latter !

[FE Wannabe]

Hey Tony,

You should be running solidly in the sixties with that setup.
Hopefully you will get some video, since I could not be there today.

I am interested in how well the new GT3B radio works as well.

Have a good one bud.

[properchopper]

First wet : Without benefit of Jeff's setup board ( He's at a race in AZ) , or Mark's learned input, I just set the strut & fin same as my Spec FE 30 . Single Turnigy
45C 5000 Nano. A little hop, need to de-lift the prop some, but HOLY COW EXHAUST !!!! I'm still shaking :

( This was also using the new GT3B Radio. Very happy with it.)

68.2 mph !!

The run in vid was on 4S2P Turnigy 45C 4000 nanos. No gps , but smokin !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V60YYYo1aDY

[HOTWATER]

WHOO-HOO!! I like it...great job!!

[properchopper]

WHOO-HOO!! I like it...great job!!

Thanks, Bro ! Anyone know how to get rid of an adrenaline hangover ? :crying:

[marko500]

The fittings in my T-180 came out no problem. Must have been my lucky day (for a change). Been looking at getting another set of batteries for my PT Stealth. I think I just decided on a set of the Nanos!
Nothing like a run where you have to wait for the "knee shake" to stop before you can bend down to get the boat out of the water.
Boat looks fantastic,great job!

Mark

[rearwheelin]

The fittings in my T-180 came out no rpoblem. Must have been my lucky day (for a change). Been looking at getting another set of batteries for my PT Stealth. I think I just decided on a set of the Nanos!
Nothing like a run where you have to wait for the "knee shake" to stop before you can bend down to get the boat out of the water.
Boat looks fantastic,great job!

Mark
Hi Mark, noticed on you PT vid and a few others (I think hydro's in general) the rudder is on the left side ...wonder why this one is on the right.....? ........ I have never owned a hydro but I am getting the itch for one...

[marko500]

Hi Mark, noticed on you PT vid and a few others (I think hydro's in general) the rudder is on the left side ...wonder why this one is on the right.....? ........ I have never owned a hydro but I am getting the itch for one...
I put my rudder on the left side as Phil Thomas recommends in the build sheet. I honestly don't know why some are on the right.I"ve seen the reason explained on here before. One of the reasons for it being on the left if I recall correct is when turning right the servo pulls on the rudder so there is no flexing of the rudder linkage. But I am new to hydros and hopefully some of the more experienced hydro guys can answer better.
I've had cats and vee hulls but after watching the guys I run with run their Whiplashes I was bitten by the hydro bug. I decided to get in on the fun and picked up the Stealth. I sure am glad I did, hydros are a thrill to drive!

Mark

[rearwheelin]

I put my rudder on the left side as Phil Thomas recommends in the build sheet. I honestly don't know why some are on the right.I"ve seen the reason explained on here before. One of the reasons for it being on the left if I recall correct is when turning right the servo pulls on the rudder so there is no flexing of the rudder linkage. But I am new to hydros and hopefully some of the more experienced hydro guys can answer better.
I've had cats and vee hulls but after watching the guys I run with run their Whiplashes I was bitten by the hydro bug. I decided to get in on the fun and picked up the Stealth. I sure am glad I did, hydros are a thrill to drive!

MarkThanks for the response ! Seems like there could be some contriversy on debating all that...........

[properchopper]

[QUOTE=properchopper;282906] Tony might I recomend before unscrewing the brass, get some of that liquid nitrogen that they use in that over the counter single treatment wart remover , it freezes sub zero:rofl:Just like how ferarri inserts valve seats by dipping them in liquid nitrogen then pressing them to the block then they expande.......:thumbup1:...Sorry man just trying to help out...lol.....PS this will be my next boat and his hardware is BADAS$...latter !

Randy, Roger that. When we put valve seats in shovelhead motors, they get machined for an interferance fit, then in the freezer with the heads in the oven. Then whammo with an insertion tool & they stay in place. :thumbup1:

[properchopper]

I put my rudder on the left side as Phil Thomas recommends in the build sheet. I honestly don't know why some are on the right.I"ve seen the reason explained on here before. One of the reasons for it being on the left if I recall correct is when turning right the servo pulls on the rudder so there is no flexing of the rudder linkage. But I am new to hydros and hopefully some of the more experienced hydro guys can answer better.
I've had cats and vee hulls but after watching the guys I run with run their Whiplashes I was bitten by the hydro bug. I decided to get in on the fun and picked up the Stealth. I sure am glad I did, hydros are a thrill to drive!

Mark

Most of the better rudders give the choice of configuring the pivot arm for push or pull. I use 4-40 rod for strength regardless.

I believe it was Mr. Turner [Fluid] who gave a learned explanation of right vs. left rudder placement. IIRC it has to do with sponson loading while turning.

[FE Wannabe]

First wet : Without benefit of Jeff's setup board ( He's at a race in AZ) , or Mark's learned input, I just set the strut & fin same as my Spec FE 30 . Single Turnigy
45C 5000 Nano. A little hop, need to de-lift the prop some, but HOLY COW EXHAUST !!!! I'm still shaking :

( This was also using the new GT3B Radio. Very happy with it.)

68.2 mph !!

The run in vid was on 4S2P Turnigy 45C 4000 nanos. No gps , but smokin !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V60YYYo1aDY

Tony,

It looks like "someone" may be going for the 2 LAP P-Sport TriFecta in May. (2009/2010 and soon 2011)

That puppy was hauling the mail for sure...

I bet your AZ Winter Warmup buddies are getting a little nervous now. You definitely have a contender. It will be very interesting to see what you end up with after a little fine tuning.

Glad to hear the GT3B radio was up for the task as well.

Well done my friend, well done. :thumbup:

[properchopper]

Tony,

It looks like "someone" may be going for the 2 LAP P-Sport TriFecta in May. (2009/2010 and soon 2011)

That puppy was hauling the mail for sure...

I bet your AZ Winter Warmup buddies are getting a little nervous now. You definitely have a contender. It will be very interesting to see what you end up with after a little fine tuning.

Glad to hear the GT3B radio was up for the task as well.

Well done my friend, well done. :thumbup:

Brad, I'l be racing P-Sport Hydro with the "Best of the Best" racers in this class. Way better drivers than myself. We'll have to see what happens; these guys ain't slow :huh:

[FE Wannabe]

Brad, I'l be racing P-Sport Hydro with the "Best of the Best" racers in this class. Way better drivers than myself. We'll have to see what happens; these guys ain't slow :huh:

Maybe I should have said they will be nervous because now you are fast enough to catch them and run 'em over! LOL

[LuckyDuc]

Glad to hear the GT3B radio was up for the task as well.



I just ordered one of these too after reading this thread. What the heck, for that price I couldn't pass it up.

[Chilli]

Tony, Just got my FE30 this week. Do you happen to have a pic of the turn fin mount? After reading the setup off the Insane sire, I'm a little confused on the mounting location.:confused2:

[properchopper]

Tony, Just got my FE30 this week. Do you happen to have a pic of the turn fin mount? After reading the setup off the Insane sire, I'm a little confused on the mounting location.:confused2:

This might help, although this bracket is a prototype for the very first FE30, which is my P-Spec rig. My P-Sport rig with the production fin bracket is locked in a trailer at the lake for tomorrows HISTORIC :banana: first all FE heats at the NAMBA D19 H20 Gassers race at Legg Lake. If you need a picture of the P-Sport rig, I'll get it tomorrow. Word to the wise : drill a shear bolt hole & install one. [It's a long story:doh:] from the AZ race :crying:

[HOTWATER]

Good luck on the historical event Tony!! That is outstanding!! Please post some updates (and pics if you can) if you're not too busy sir!

-Kent

[Chilli]

My bracket is a little bit different and unless I'm mistaken, it looks like with my hardware the fin should be mounted outside the bracket.

This is from the web site:

"Turn fin mounting bracket should be located with its inner edge lined up with outside edge of outermost sponson, and bottom of bracket ¼“ below sponson. Bolt turn fin inside of bracket, starting with middle hole. "

If I mounted the bottom of the bracket 1/4" below the sponson, I'd be screwing into gelcoat and air.

Here are a few pics. Do I want the bend of the fin even or a bit lower then the lowest ride surface on the sponson .....and the inside of the fin even with the outside edge on the secondary (stepped ride surface)??? Thanks for the tip on the shear pin!!!!

I bet you thought being a Team Insane Driver was going to be easy!!:rofl:

Congratulations on the historic race this weekend. Keep breaking down those barriers!!! No pics. We want videos!!!

[properchopper]

My bracket is a little bit different and unless I'm mistaken, it looks like with my hardware the fin should be mounted outside the bracket.

This is from the web site:

"Turn fin mounting bracket should be located with its inner edge lined up with outside edge of outermost sponson, and bottom of bracket ¼“ below sponson. Bolt turn fin inside of bracket, starting with middle hole. "

If I mounted the bottom of the bracket 1/4" below the sponson, I'd be screwing into gelcoat and air.

Here are a few pics. Do I want the bend of the fin even or a bit lower then the lowest ride surface on the sponson .....And the inside of the fin even with the outside edge on the secondarty (stepped ride surface)??? Thanks for the tip on the shear pin!!!!

I bet you thought being a Team Insane Driver was going to be easy!!:rofl:

Congratulations on the historic race this weekend. Keep breaking down those barriers!!! No pics. We want videos!!!

Seems I wrote those instructions relative to the original bracket and after a party at Charlie Sheen's house ( Man, it was tough getting the donkey up the stairs :w00t:)

For one, Jeff likes the fin inside the bracket. Says the water flowing up the fin won't create lift when it hits the bracket. He knows his stuff, trust me !

Maybe this picture can help.

I've been at the lake wrenching & testing for Jeff & his team since 7:30 this morning & need to get up at 5 tomorrow to make the driver's meeting on time so I'm gettin' horizontal soon. Hope this helps. If more questions, pm me your e-mail & we'll keep going. BTW I promise you'll just love this boat :rockon2:

[Chilli]

:rofl: My gut hurts!!

Okay Tony. Thanks for the pic. If you look closely at my first pic, the trailing end of the bracket is radiused on the inside. Thats why I assumed the fin mounted on the outside. From a leverage stand point it makes sense to go on the inside. We'll talk props later

Good luck this weekend.

[detox]

Hi Tony,
It looks like you are using the 1/8" flex cable with this setup. Will it be strong enough?

I am converting my Whiplash to a similar setup, but using Two Hyperion 3300mah 45c packs 4s2p (trying to keep weight low).

Thanks, Keith


.....

[Fluid]

From post #1:


I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

I would never run 0.150" cable with a Neu P motor but that's just me. Clearly it works for Tony.

Some 1/8" cable is actually stronger than some 0.150" cable, this from the guy who made much of the flex cable used in the hobby.


.

[properchopper]

My decision to run the .150 ( it wasn't a 1/8, maybe this wasn't clearly disclosed, my bad) in the P-Sport was based on Mark's success using the
.150 with a 1527 in his FE 30. The plan to try the .150 in mine, using teflon which could be pulled if needed to go to a .187 was a good one; I had a disaster at WW VII when the boat was launched in shallow water & the fin kicked up ( hence the suggestion to add a shear bolt) and I couldn't make the final turn on the mill lap and hit the bank. I didn't realize that the motor partially broke loose, causing a bad vibration which ultimately snapped the .150 at the collett. I'm now using the
.187 sans teflon but , my opinion only, still think a perfectly aligned and maintained .150 gets the job done.

[detox]

I ment .150", but I did not know the exact measurement.

I just purchased the ABC 1816/3 prop and was hoping not to loose it ($28.00). BTW did you try the 1816/3 prop?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=abc-1816-10-50%283%29CLL

...

[properchopper]

I ment .150", but I did not know the exact measurement.

I just purchased the ABC 1816/3 prop and was hoping not to loose it ($28.00). BTW did you try the 1816/3 prop?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=abc-1816-10-50%283%29CLL

...

Haven't tried the 1816/3 as yet. Have tested with a fairly stock and also a heavily modded 447/3. FAST but need to watch the lift. My P-Sport FE 30 (green one) is now heading to Tucson with teammate Steve for the race. It'll likely use a X447 which seems to be a good "utility" heat race prop. My sport hydro setup learning curve is still very much in progress, but I'm finding that higher pitch props do create some tail hop. :Peace_Sign:

[detox]

I'm finding that higher pitch props do create some tail hop. :Peace_Sign:

Adding weight to the stearn (such as a small receiver NIMH battery pack) or move COG more rearward should help prevent hop. I am using the Hydra LV 240 so a receiver bat pack is needed.


...

[properchopper]

Yup ! I recently moved my batt's back ( 2X Turnigy 45C 4000's) and angled the back of the strut up a tad & with a M545 she was "El-Perfecto" :smile:

[Gen]

tony

you had this goin at 68mph with the nanotech batts but no s rating mentioned were you running 4s or 6s to get the 68mph and what prop ,,
i have asked qestions about props for this hull in the prop section cause im gettin one soon runnin on 4s with the castle 2200 kv if you were runnin 4s help with prop selection would be appreciated ...

and a M545 was best with a turnigy 180 ???

with a 2200 on 4s and m445 in my test ul1 hull my temps on batterys were 60 C and was pushin 56 mph

[Fluid]

Go to post #17 Tony tells all. 4S1P/45C/5000 mAh.



.

[properchopper]

tony

you had this goin at 68mph with the nanotech batts but no s rating mentioned were you running 4s or 6s to get the 68mph and what prop ,,
i have asked qestions about props for this hull in the prop section cause im gettin one soon runnin on 4s with the castle 2200 kv if you were runnin 4s help with prop selection would be appreciated ...

and a M545 was best with a turnigy 180 ???

with a 2200 on 4s and m445 in my test ul1 hull my temps on batterys were 60 C and was pushin 56 mph

Gen,

That run IIRC was with a single 4S 5000MaH Turnigy Nano 45C/90C and IIRC an ABC H-5 and a T-180 SC. I went to 4S2P Turnigy 4000MaH Nano 45C/90C batts for the heats at WW VII- many of the other racers just used a single 4S 5000MaH but I wanted some more headroom. I haven't GPS'd the 4S2P setup but it's plenty fast enough that way for heat racing and the extra capacity gave me some insurance for more runtime - If you jump the start or cut a buoy you get a one lap penalty and my driving often requires this :eek:.
I switched to the M545 only because I lost the H-5. I like the H-5 for both P-Sport & Spec as well; for spec watch temps.

How you set up your rig depends on your intended purpose. Are you Heat Racing, looking for ultimate SAW top speeds, or just want a fast, great handling fun runner with reasonable run time ?

[Gen]

Gen,

That run IIRC was with a single 4S 5000MaH Turnigy Nano 45C/90C and IIRC an ABC H-5 and a T-180 SC. I went to 4S2P Turnigy 4000MaH Nano 45C/90C batts for the heats at WW VII- many of the other racers just used a single 4S 5000MaH but I wanted some more headroom. I haven't GPS'd the 4S2P setup but it's plenty fast enough that way for heat racing and the extra capacity gave me some insurance for more runtime - If you jump the start or cut a buoy you get a one lap penalty and my driving often requires this :eek:.
I switched to the M545 only because I lost the H-5. I like the H-5 for both P-Sport & Spec as well; for spec watch temps.

How you set up your rig depends on your intended purpose. Are you Heat Racing, looking for ultimate SAW top speeds, or just want a fast, great handling fun runner with reasonable run time ?

tony thanks ,,im not lookin for saw i want a good race boat i had some props i tested in the prop section of the forum and the m445 was my best performer (fastest) but the oct V937/3 was most fast most stable run ,i think im gonna try a V940/3 ?? or mabee a H4 i m not comftorable with a h5 .....

[properchopper]

tony thanks ,,im not lookin for saw i want a good race boat i had some props i tested in the prop section of the forum and the m445 was my best performer (fastest) but the oct V937/3 was most fast most stable run ,i think im gonna try a V940/3 ?? or mabee a H4 i m not comftorable with a h5 .....

Sounds good. I ran a tip-cupped M445 last year in my UL-1 in AZ. Good all-around prop.

I haven't checked out the prop forum lately so haven't seen your posts . I'll pm my e-mail so we can correspond there - my OSE inbox is usually full.

[Insaniac]

Thanks to the generosity of my racing benefactor, Mr. Michaud, I got to build a dedicated P-Sport FE 30 to compliment my FE 30 P-Spec LSH boat.

Borrowing the 1515 1Y & T180 from my Vegas, I decided to go solid & sturdy with the components. The front-mount motor mount Jeff supplies for the FE 30's is super strong so I went with it, although I added a 3/32" ply base for added rigidity. I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

Because I wasn't sure of battery/batteries placement, I used 90 degree fittings on the SC to allow room for dual batteries on the side if I need the extra capacity, and 4S 4000 Turnigy Nanos fit beside the SC should I choose to go this route.

[more pictures in following posts]

What's the distance from the drive-side endbell to the transom?

[ray schrauwen]

Seems I wrote those instructions relative to the original bracket and after a party at Charlie Sheen's house ( Man, it was tough getting the donkey up the stairs :w00t:)

For one, Jeff likes the fin inside the bracket. Says the water flowing up the fin won't create lift when it hits the bracket. He knows his stuff, trust me !

Maybe this picture can help.

I've been at the lake wrenching & testing for Jeff & his team since 7:30 this morning & need to get up at 5 tomorrow to make the driver's meeting on time so I'm gettin' horizontal soon. Hope this helps. If more questions, pm me your e-mail & we'll keep going. BTW I promise you'll just love this boat :rockon2:

How many degrees bent is that turn fin sir?

[properchopper]

What's the distance from the drive-side endbell to the transom?

Here's how mine's set up. The cooling jacket touches the cowl just a tiny bit; another .50 or .75 inch forward would fix that but isn't a problem as it is now.

[properchopper]

How many degrees bent is that turn fin sir?

Ray, I don't have a protractor to measure it; does the picture help answer the question ? The mounting bracket has a slotted hole to allow angle adjustment if it becomes necessary.

[rearwheelin]

Tony , can you tell me what kind of a footprint that hardware puts on the transom, I might put that set up on my MK II. Thanks man, Randy

[Gen]

Thanks to the generosity of my racing benefactor, Mr. Michaud, I got to build a dedicated P-Sport FE 30 to compliment my FE 30 P-Spec LSH boat.

Borrowing the 1515 1Y & T180 from my Vegas, I decided to go solid & sturdy with the components. The front-mount motor mount Jeff supplies for the FE 30's is super strong so I went with it, although I added a 3/32" ply base for added rigidity. I used a .150 flex with teflon so I can pull the teflon & run a .187 if need be.

Because I wasn't sure of battery/batteries placement, I used 90 degree fittings on the SC to allow room for dual batteries on the side if I need the extra capacity, and 4S 4000 Turnigy Nanos fit beside the SC should I choose to go this route.

[more pictures in following posts]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..:w00t:

[fuse01]

i have ran low 60mph on the FE30. but i think it need a .187 flex... mine broke on a .150 with teflon liner.

[properchopper]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..:w00t:

Gen,

I've found that even with the 3/32" ply base, the motor sits high enough to cause some critical alignment issues with the hatch IF you mount a T-180 in front of the motor and allow room for a single 4S pack in front. Fore-Aft placement takes some fiddling to get everything lined up and the hatch to clear the motor. The hull is strong and I doubt if the motor will "rip out" the floor in case of a blowover. I do however lay some fiberglass tape over the motor mount foot and the ply base for insurance.

[properchopper]

i have ran low 60mph on the FE30. but i think it need a .187 flex... mine broke on a .150 with teflon liner.

Fuse, Mark has run a .150 with a honkin' 1527 with no broken flexes, but a .187 without teflon is what I've gone to for my current builds. It takes me LOTS of time to PERFECTLY line up the motor/shaft/stuffing tube before final permanent attachment.

[ray schrauwen]

i wanted to start building my boat TODAY ...and wanted to use this plywood around motor setup for rigity however i cant find any 7/32 2.4mm ply its too thin ,,so can i use BALSA if i epoxy well ?? want to use balsa for hatch tabs as well >>

and with this boat gettin into 60 mph zone is rails required for rigity as a few people have done ,i just dont want the floor of my boat to come out with a 60mph blowover ..:w00t:

Avoid balsa for structure.

[Gen]

well ,i never used balsa ,must have seemed like a stupid question when i later looked at balsa and realized how weak it was ..

i ended up doing a 5mm marine ply frame around engine and shaft similar to what mr propper chopper did and then glued my servo mount and traxxas radio box (for receiver )

still got to epoxy my layout ..

also tony can i ask in setup it talks about strut haveing so much neg .ect the strut from factory is quite inclined so are these already sought of in good position from factory ??

[properchopper]

well ,i never used balsa ,must have seemed like a stupid question when i later looked at balsa and realized how weak it was ..

i ended up doing a 5mm marine ply frame around engine and shaft similar to what mr propper chopper did and then glued my servo mount and traxxas radio box (for receiver )

still got to epoxy my layout ..

also tony can i ask in setup it talks about strut haveing so much neg .ect the strut from factory is quite inclined so are these already sought of in good position from factory ??

Gen, looks good so far. Make sure the hatch clears motor/cooling jacket before epoxying in place. Not clear about your question; picture of my P-Sport strut; bottom of strut is 7/8" from hull bottom; I'm using a small amount of positive(up in back) angle to compensate for prop lift; you'll need to see if your setup doesn't rear-hop while underway and adjust strut angle accordingly. :smile:

[electric]

Gen, I also have an FE30. Just a few weeks ago I made my strut exactly flat 0 degrees and for me, this was perfect. I was runing a M447 and was getting some hop and this eliminated the problem. Each prop has a different effect, so you adust a bit sometimes. I would start with perfectly level and go from there. Propper may offer a different perspective.

[properchopper]

Gen, I also have an FE30. Just a few weeks ago I made my strut exactly flat 0 degrees and for me, this was perfect. I was runing a M447 and was getting some hop and this eliminated the problem. Each prop has a different effect, so you adust a bit sometimes. I would start with perfectly level and go from there. Propper may offer a different perspective.

:iagree:

[electric]

well ,i never used balsa ,must have seemed like a stupid question when i later looked at balsa and realized how weak it was ..

i ended up doing a 5mm marine ply frame around engine and shaft similar to what mr propper chopper did and then glued my servo mount and traxxas radio box (for receiver )

still got to epoxy my layout ..

also tony can i ask in setup it talks about strut haveing so much neg .ect the strut from factory is quite inclined so are these already sought of in good position from factory ??

Hey, I was just staring at your picture and it occurred to me that the plywood frame you have might interfere with the battery placement? Are you going with one 4s battery in the middle or a dual battery set up with one on each side?

[properchopper]

Hey, I was just staring at your picture and it occurred to me that the plywood frame you have might interfere with the battery placement? Are you going with one 4s battery in the middle or a dual battery set up with one on each side?

Good Call !

When I run 4S2P 4000's, they JUST sqeak in under the deck; in fact I have to place a plastic ruler over the velcro to allow the batt's to slide in without catching on the velcro, then pull the ruler out once the batt's are in place. Many racers use a single 4S 5000 in front of the motor; fine for P-Spec and just enough for a 1 mile sprint race. Also, two 2S 5000's in series work well, just watch runtimes with hungry motors.

[RandyatBBY]

I am coming after ya with my FE 30 (Smokin Joes 30) I am just finishing I will be down for a race after it is done. Friendly bench racing hope you take it that way. After my Tahoe is fixed too!

[electric]

Hmmm. Just looked at the map of where Legg Lake is and I am out on the West Coast a lot this summer. I actually do some work in City of Industry and Long Beach area, so might have to swing by. Is there any general schedule when you guys run at Legg? Wonder if I can get a hydro through security at the airport? Chuckle. I can see me now with the lipo's..sure these are just regular ol' batteries security person, ya know...for my radio...

[properchopper]

Hmmm. Just looked at the map of where Legg Lake is and I am out on the West Coast a lot this summer. I actually do some work in City of Industry and Long Beach area, so might have to swing by. Is there any general schedule when you guys run at Legg? Wonder if I can get a hydro through security at the airport? Chuckle. I can see me now with the lipo's..sure these are just regular ol' batteries security person, ya know...for my radio...

Hey, just LMK when you'll be in town & we can hook up. Ship me your boat or you can run one of mine :thumbup1:

[electric]

oh...you have never seen what I can do to a boat.. Do not let me drive your boat. Chuckle.

I am going to sort out my calendar for this summer in the next week or so and I will let you know when I am out your way. My wife and kids flee the Texas heat during the summer and stay in Fallbrook with her parents, so I come out to work at our West Coast offices and generally make excuses to be out there as much as I can.

That's what you get when you marry a born and raised Huntington Beach girl and then talk her into moving back to Texas with you. That first summer here in Texas, she was like, "does it really get hottter than this?". That was early spring and I did not have the heart to tell her, "Oh yes, it gets MUCH HOTTER.

[Gen]

Hey, I was just staring at your picture and it occurred to me that the plywood frame you have might interfere with the battery placement? Are you going with one 4s battery in the middle or a dual battery set up with one on each side?

mr electric ,,gonna run 2 of 4s in paralell 4000 nanos ,each side of hull ..so i wasent concerned bout room up front of plywood layout