50" Hydro Build

[Make-a-Wake]

Hey guys, wanted to get a BIG Hydro, and went ahead and got this big guy. Thought i'd share the "build" which should take a few weeks maybe.

Components to be used (although input is very welcome!!)

Motor - Castle 2028 780kv
ESC - Sworfish 240HV
Batts - 6 x 5000 40c 3s batts for 9s2p.
All hardware came with the Hull
1/4" one piece flex with tapered shaft of 5mm(i know.....:confused1:)
Going to use a 5mm to 1/4" adapter to run a 1/4" prop

Hull is built very well in my opinion. Big sturdy stringers already installed, waterproof radio/servo box, and nice push/lock pins for Cowl.

Thanks for looking!!


Pic next to my 28" Elam for comparison:thumbup1:

[LarrysDrifter]

Nice.Cant wait to watch the build.You gonna bring this to the Shootout this year?

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks, when is it exactly? I tried a link to last years shootout, got a new one possibly? Wonder what this boat will do speedwise..............guess i'll find out in a few weeks! :bounce:

Thanks Larry!

[LarrysDrifter]

I dont know the exact date.I pretty sure its in August though.My buddy Johnson on here knows the date.Where are you in MO?

[johnson22456]

The shootout is a week long event. The mini shootout for Rc boats was held on thursday of that week. This year it will be august 22-28. Here's the link I'm sure there will be more info later in the year.

http://www.lakeoftheozarksshootout.org/

[Make-a-Wake]

I dont know the exact date.I pretty sure its in August though.My buddy Johnson on here knows the date.Where are you in MO?

Due south of you my friend............cant seem to find any info on the "RC" part of the event. Where do you look for it on the site???

BTW..............the 78mm prop is now 66mm.............closer to the realm of reality i think.........gonna try it out. If too much, may try a 457/3..............have to bore it out just a hair though.

[johnson22456]

They took the 2010 site down after the events. They had 6 classes last year cat/hydro single, twin and unlimited, and the same for monos.

Here's a thread on midwest boat party.
http://midwestboatparty.com/forum/showthread.php?27552-2011-2nd-annual-mini-shootout&

[johnson22456]

Just found it.

http://www.lakeoftheozarksshootout.org/minishootout.html

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Johnson!

[Make-a-Wake]

The cockpit is extremely large, and i will easily be able to put the six 3s 5000's in there to keep weight up front, pic is of a 3s 5800 with tons of room in front of it.. Sponsons are quite straight and free of imperfections/low spots. Pic of the Stock prop in its prior 78mm size(66mm now) compared to an x645.:ohmy:

[LarrysDrifter]

It a big one thats for sure.If you ever come our way,we can run together.Id sure like to see this one live.Big boats are where its at.

[old guy]

I would like to know the speed of this when done:bounce:

[Brushless55]

Very cool!
what hull is this?

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Larry, old guy and Brushless:

I ran across it on Nitrorcx looking for a brushless motor for my sons buggy. They have some really decent looking boats, especially for the price...............probably all knockoffs, but i have heard of others racing some of these hulls with good results.

My big'n is obviously a gasser...............had a "zenoah" type engine......bought it as the "kit" and said it wouldnt come with any propulsion components.........came with the muffler, gas tank, motor mounts and a few more bits.....................lazy buggers just popped the engine out.

Its built very well in my opinion............im in there modding the gas tank area for the batts and adding more epoxy to joints and such right now.

Link to the boats on RCX - http://www.nitrorcx.com/boats.html

[martno1fan]

Nice project ,ill be watching with interest as i might have a go at making one of my Comet hydros into an electric,shes 50" also.Look forward to seeing what you come up with.First ill be getting my feet wet with a large mono im going to be producing then ill give something faster a go so ill be watching with interest and taking notes lol.
Heres a cpl of pics of my Comet.
Mart

[Make-a-Wake]

Nice Hull martno! :thumbup1:

[martno1fan]

Cheers mate,
im fairly new to fast electrics most of my previous builds have been Gas and a few nitros.Fancy trying a large electric so all my gas gear is been sold off to help fund a cpl of builds lol.Good luck with yours it looks like a nice hull.
Mart

[madgadget]

I'm going to try something very similar and will follow this with a lot of interest. Going to take me more than a few weeks but I'll be going to the shootout with or without a boat to race. I was going to convert the segad in my avatar but I'm going to try an aeromarine hull instead. Good looking hull btw. Mike

[Jeff Wohlt]

If we get good water for the run the speeds will go up over last year. I think a larger cat is the way to go..40+" with twins. 8S. They only hit about 60 mph last yr.

I may have one there or I will be building one with a local down there to put the heat on the gas boys....they won't even come close...LOL.

I would think Castle would like to be involved! Joe????

[LarrysDrifter]

Ill be bringing my 37" triple down to boogie with the fuelers.

[Make-a-Wake]

Did a little modding to the gas tank area. It now fits four 3s 5000's perfectly by removing just a few pieces of ply. The other two 5000's will go up in front of it.

Also did some epoxy reinforcing to the stringers and on some areas that didnt have much or any epoxy at all.

Added a bit a bling with some striping.............

[madgadget]

Curious as to how much the hull and hardware weigh and projected rtr wt. Should be good baseline nfo. thx Mike:spy:

[Make-a-Wake]

Any suggestions for a prop on 9s2p.................i'm a bit apprehensive of just running it right off the bat with the big 66mm..................has some pretty good pitch.

Should i start with an X series...........55-60-mm...............?????

Thanks

[madgadget]

Should i start with an X series...........55-60-mm...............?????

x 655 de tounged to start imo

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks madgadget, all i have at the moment in the "range" are an x450, an x460, and the stock 1.4 x 78mm cut down to a 66mm. May try the x460 first.............

Still trying to accumulate all the electronics, the SF240hv should be here in the next day or two along with servo's, 8mm bullets, couplers etc................

[madgadget]

Are you going to let me know how much the hull and hardware weigh? It will go a long way to helping me decide my setup. 1p or 2p HV or LV etc. thanks,
Mike

[Make-a-Wake]

Sorry for the Late reply..............had to find a way to weigh it. Hull with only hardware weighs 11.6 pounds.............kinda suprised me. Im gonna have a 3 lb. motor and 6 pounds worth of batts in it............whew!

Motor should be in Saturday along with the SF240hv. In the meantime i went ahead and made a beefy RX pack out of an older 6 cell sub C pack. It should do the job as i will have twin Traxxas 2056 servo's.

[old guy]

I would like to know where the C/G is when you are done RTR:thumbup:

[TotalPackage]

I might step down to 8 s bring the rpm down a bit and try a 457 460 just a thought maybe even down to 6 s 2p and a gas prop . Never did it just sounds better for that big hull.I know we all talk about weight alot but as fast as people are running now I think u need some weight . The only advatage I see to a light hull is you can put the weight where u want it.Thats under 20 pounds so its not too heavy I dont think.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys, I'm figuring right at about 22 lbs with everything.............. a delivery attempt was made today while i was at work:( Another day to get the goods.......... The motor may arrive tomorrow as well................man, i wanna get some stuff in this beast.............tired of just staring at it!:o

I could try 8s with a 3s x 3s x 2s, never thought of that.........i have the matching 5000 40c's of each. I have to get the x460 bored out to 5mm........just takes a hair more but dont want to do it myself and get it off center, think i'll run it by a tool and die shop i have used for shaft work before and slip 'em 5 bucks.

I dont have a data logger, and those i have seen are good up to 100 amps, i want this thing to pull right in the 180a range and need to see what certain props will do instead of the old "hold full throttle and see if the speedo blows" method. 180 amps should give me about 8 horsepower on 9s. So i may start with the x460. Since no logger, i may have to go by the seat of my pants.:ohmy:

[Make-a-Wake]

Finally got some stuff in to actually start some work......missed the motor, delivery attempt was made and i was at work, wife and kids out :o

Well, this will give me a bit to do anyways............putting in the twin servo's, making the parallel connectors, adding bullets to the Big SF240hv

I will pick up the motor Monday and see if my custom made water cooling jacket will fit properly.............

:thumbup1:


.................................

[keithbradley]

I'll be following along on this one, I love the big boats!:thumbup1:
My 50" mono should be here in a few days, I got the red, white, and blue one. These boats are made by Dragon Hobby, which I beleive are the same people that make the EKOS.

As far as running on 8s...I thought 9s was a little on the slow side honestly. I ran my 40" mono on 9s2p with a Neu 2215, and that was 1020kv. With a x457 prop it stayed cool (motor was VERY cool actually, usually came back in the 90's).
Have you considered running this on 10-12s? 9s is only going to put you at 25,000rpms with 780kv. I guess if you want to run a huge prop you may want to keep the rpms down, but otherwise let her rip.

Im looking forward to seeing how that HUGE new motor is going to do in this monster. It should move some water for sure!

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Keith.............. I planned on running it on 9s, that seemed to be the best config. for me batt wise especially as i have a bunch of 3s 40c 5000's. I'm gonna run two sets of 3 series packs for 9s2p. The motor specs actually say 30,000 rpms max on castles site............not sure how "true" that is but 9s should be right in a good zone. I have a 1460 i just got in, and the stock 78mm has been honed down to 66mm as well.

Yes.............i'm itchin' to see what this baby will do!!

:thumbup:

[Make-a-Wake]

The Monster came...........!! :bounce:

What a bruiser..............all 3 lbs. of it..........impressive in person.

Check out the pic next to a KB45(same size as Feigao 580L)........... :eek:

This is gonna be fun................. :buttrock: :buttrock: :buttrock:

[Jacked1]

WOW!!! That thing is HUGE! That boat is gonna scoot! You might be able to use one of these props!...
http://www.getaprop.com/content-product_info/product_id-7733/hung_shen_htp_3_propeller_12_dia.html

I might need to do a similar project for an excuse to get one of those motors! looks great man!

[keithbradley]

That thing is a monster but it still looks small in that hull!:ohmy:

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Jacked......!! I'm pumped!!!

Keith, it looks like a 380XL in a 1/12 for sure doesnt it!!

[madgadget]

Keith, it looks like a 380XL in a 1/12 for sure doesnt it!!
Today 08:26 PM


I don't know if I would go that far.I'll bet it sounds good regardless tho!

[Make-a-Wake]

Cooling jacket seems to have worked out well.............great pressure test! :thumbup1:

Used O-rings from a Feigao 580L cooling jacket.............stretched 'em over and.............bam! Greased the groove and this sucker is on there.

Jacket is a piece of PVC coupler......60mm I.D.

[keithbradley]

Do you know for sure yet what you are going to do with the prop/flex shaft situation? I got my 50" mono today and it has the same 5mm shaft. I took it apart and it consists of a HUGE stuffing tube, a liner, then another liner inside of that, then the 5mm shaft. I have considered trying to turn down the end of the prop shaft (from the drive dog back)to 3/16" (its just barely too big for 3/16" props) and putting a 3/16" drive dog on it. Im not sure I really like this strut/stuffing tube/liner inside a liner setup though. I could just get a different strut and run a normal stuffing tube, might be further ahead.
Curious to see what you choose to do...

[Make-a-Wake]

So you got your Big'n in! Is it a decent boat? Mine has impressed me by the quality and so forth. Yea, the 3/16's barely "dont" fit...........i thought if turning mine down too, but then you have the threaded area...........how would all that work???? I think it would be better to bore out a drive dog and all the props you would use............if i do that i would take it to my local tool and die guy to do it within some tight tolerances so its all balanced and straight. For now, going with the stock setup............i have honed the prop down further to 63mm.

What do you think of my $2 jacket................?:biggrin:

[keithbradley]

So you got your Big'n in! Is it a decent boat? Mine has impressed me by the quality and so forth. Yea, the 3/16's barely "dont" fit...........i thought if turning mine down too, but then you have the threaded area...........how would all that work???? I think it would be better to bore out a drive dog and all the props you would use............if i do that i would take it to my local tool and die guy to do it within some tight tolerances so its all balanced and straight. For now, going with the stock setup............i have honed the prop down further to 63mm.

What do you think of my $2 jacket................?:biggrin:

Quite crafty on the jacket:thumbup1: Looks like it should work well.

My plan with the flex was to turn down the shaft, then just run a die on the end and cut new threads to the size of a regular 3/16" prop shaft nut. The more I look at this thing though, the more I am leaning towards ripping it all out and putting a new flex, stuffing tube, and strut or stinger in it. The flex sticks out of the front of the stuffing tube a couple inches, then goes into that double layered liner. While Im sure this is fine at weedwacker RPMs, I think its going to whip around and self destruct at 30,000+ RPM. Also, the strut angle in the rear is not even close to neutral, and while its slotted, when you move it down to get it neutral, the hole doesnt line up. The slot should have been at an angle in order to line up. Again, with the stock motor (I saw a vid of one and trust me it was far from a rocket) the lift on the bow probably helps, but when I try to go fast I dont think I will be able to keep her in the water with that strut angle.
I hate to get this involved with the flex/tube/strut on a boat that already has hardware, but I think it has to be done. How is the strut angle on your hydro?

As far as the hull quality, the glass and gel work are actually pretty nice, and rudder is nice and thick/well machined. Its going to take a little bit of effort to get it water tight being a gasser, but I knew that going in.

I have to say Im a little envious in the power department. Ive got this dinky little 5692 to put in mine, which is seeming smaller by teh minute every time I see that picture of your castle!

[Make-a-Wake]

Post some Pics!!

My strut is very adjustable..................raises and lowers in about a 1.5" range, and can kick out or in a bit as well.

I cut my flex shaft off and left just enough out of the tube to fit it into the 8mm to 5mm coupler..............it didnt even need soldering..............already soldered far down the flex due to the squared off section that i lopped off.

So you feel the boat is fairly well built too...................that makes both of us, maybe others will start hot rodding these big ol' gassers too!

PICS!!! Inside and out too please.

[keithbradley]

Heres a few I took of the strut and inside...I can take more of the whole boat later. I didnt take too many cause I wasnt going to post them in your thread and clog it up with pics of my mono:eek:

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2212.jpg http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2213.jpg

[keithbradley]

Here are a few more, you can see how small that Leopard looks in there...
http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2220.jpg http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2221.jpg http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2223.jpg http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_2225.jpg
Its a deeper V than Ive ran in the past too.

[Make-a-Wake]

You're not kidding..................that motor is dwarfed in there. Nice looking hull, the only thing i really didnt like about it was the darn rail down the center of the front deck. Your drive looks just like mine on the motor end. Tapered to a square drive. Just cut it off like I did and throw a big coupler on it............leave about and inch to 1 1/4".

Pics of my mount progress...............no jackets or mounts yet for this 2028, so i have to manufacture my own stuff.........kinda fun though. The mount will bolt to the stringers which have been strengthened by a good layer of epoxy.

:thumbup:

[Make-a-Wake]

Well.......................here she is................my version of a 2028 mount. I have made mounts for Neu 1527's, 1717's and now the big ol' 2028..............i have never had one fail so hopefully my streak stays intact. Its pretty beefy.......................:thumbup1:

[Brushless55]

I cannot wait to see the video of this water missile! :buttrock:

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks brushless................me too!

Got the twin Traxxas 2056 servo's secured and aligned. They work in perfect harmony and are not fighting each other a bit................i'm quite pleased

-vouc8cGtcw

[Make-a-Wake]

I'm still pluggin' along...................had to make my own turn fin as i dont want a cupped/bent fin(gave my Elam fits)..........so i pulled out my trusty aluminum stock and went to work.

Disclaimer: yes the fin is on the left.............thats just for the pic cuz i was too lazy to turn it around................:olleyes:

.......................

[Make-a-Wake]

Ok.......made the fin bracket and sharpened and polished everything. Test fit in 2nd pic to see how it looks and all lines up.....................should be big enough at 5.5 inches long.............opinions?

[keithbradley]

Looks right to me!
...keep in mind I know very little about setting up hydros:blink:

What did you make it out of? 6061?

[Make-a-Wake]

Dont know the number, but the stock comes in 4 foot strips.............its 1.5 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. I'd be lost without it...................oh, and my trusty belt sander!

[TotalPackage]

id get rid of that 5mm shaft before i start boring out props that sounds crazy "make" coz youll be commited to that endeavor at every prop change then the props will only be good for "that"
boat only. Get you a standard 3/16 or 1/4 inch drive shaft and leave all that other mess alone
jusy my advice .run it 2 min and do a hand check for heat if your hand cant handle the heat then u probably need to step down on the prop. Cant wait to see the 2028 in action.

[Brushless55]

Ok.......made the fin bracket and sharpened and polished everything. Test fit in 2nd pic to see how it looks and all lines up.....................should be big enough at 5.5 inches long.............opinions?

I don't really know a whole lot about Hydro's but could that be to long? :confused2:

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys!

I may end up going 1/4" all the way when everything pans out, but for now im gonna give her a go with the 5mm shaft and 63mm prop for the maiden which should be Wednesday. The turn fin is roughly 40% longer than my Elam turn fin, so "scale wise" it seems close....................only one way to find out!! :buttrock:

[Make-a-Wake]

OK...........got the ply inside the sponson.......epoxied it in good..............then carefully aligned the fin bracket so it would be dead straight in line with the pad. Drilled the holes, added some waterproof silicon around the screws and behind the bracket and screwed it on. Came out perfect i must say! Sure is a big fin in person but it actually still looks just a hair small on this hull. Should work well in my opinion..........hope so anyways:thumbup1:

[FloatDaBoat]

Ok.......made the fin bracket and sharpened and polished everything. Test fit in 2nd pic to see how it looks and all lines up.....................should be big enough at 5.5 inches long.............opinions?

That blade looks good enough to skin-out an Elk !!! Hope it turns the hydro OK, too . . . .

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Float!

Well..............got the batts in for a test fit.............the 4 in the bottom fit like they were custom made for the "tray"..............got two on top that will be velcro strapped in.........9s2p

You can get an idea of the size of this hull by how half the cockpit swallows up 9s2p:ohmy:

Getting close to maiden!!!! :banana:

[keithbradley]

Thanks Float!

Well..............got the batts in for a test fit.............the 4 in the bottom fit like they were custom made for the "tray"..............got two on top that will be velcro strapped in.........9s2p

You can get an idea of the size of this hull by how half the cockpit swallows up 9s2p:ohmy:

Getting close to maiden!!!! :banana:

Very cool...looks like yours is going to get wet pretty soon!:thumbup1:

What coupler are you using? Is it 1/4" ? I know the shaft is 5mm but the flex part looks like standard 1/4"...I havent gotten one for mine yet.

I got my shaft done today. Just machined the part that comes out of the strut. It was .194" in stock form, and I machined it down to .187" to fit standard 3/16" props and drive dogs. It was really easier than I thought it would be. Seeing that I only had to take off about .003", the threads still look great, and I can still use the nut that came on it. Definitely worth doing if you have a lathe or have acces to one!

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Keith!

I am using this coupler - http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe8mm25

The flex must be standard 1/4" cuz the coupler fits tightly. Got to get the ESC fired up for the first time in the morning...........im off tomorrow so should be able to run her in the afternoon!:banana:

I always get a little creeeped out when firing up a new ESC...........gotta make sure the throttle range is set correctly upon initial start up etc..............

Not looking forward to pluggin in 9s without a spark eliminator.............Keith, have you plugged some high voltage packs in before without the eliminator?

[madgadget]

plugged in my 12s stratus and 10s Razor helis every other weekend for almost a year before getting a spark eliminator using CC HV85 and HV110 esc's. fwiw
Are you ready for me to video the maiden?????

[keithbradley]

Yeah, I didnt have anything on this one:
http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/keithbradley/100_1397.jpg

I ran up to 10s2p in it. I use 8mm bullets and just keep my fingers off of the non insulated part of the bullet and quickly put them together. If you commit to it and just quickly put them together (dont be gingerly about it, that make more of an arc) it doesnt really damage the bullets... Maybe over a long period of time, like you might have to replace them after 100 plug ins, but nothing too terrible. It is loud though. Alot louder than 6s2p, seems more than twice as loud.
I ran a 240HV ESC in that boat and never had any problems with it either. I know some people say the spark can damage the esc, but I've never had a problem.

[Make-a-Wake]

So, no biggie just pluggin it in with the huge pop i anticipate...........hmmmm. Doesnt hurt the caps???

Not really looking forward to the POP.............can i add a spark eliminator??

Mad, Im just south of you a bit..............but may be a long drive................

Thanks guys:thumbup1:

[madgadget]

Wishful thinking more than anything else on the video.

[Make-a-Wake]

Well..........kind of a nightmare drilling the holes in the stringer for the ESC mount..........but got it done.

Also added the rear hatch cover, made it from thick plexiglass. Had to do it the way i did with screws only at the top cuz i have to spread the bottom of the canopy apart to get the lockscrews in. Then i'll just give it a really good tape job all the way around and at the bottom.

Still tryin' to get her in the water today.................:Praying:

[Brushless55]

Are you going to run on 10s?
Looks good by the way!

[Make-a-Wake]

9s...........................I'll give the motor a slight break.............plus im turning a good size prop. Thanks!!!

[Brushless55]

9s...........................I'll give the motor a slight break.............plus im turning a good size prop. Thanks!!!

wheres that video bro! :banana:

[H2OCamel]

I wanna see it too!

[Make-a-Wake]

Ran her today....................


Must read the following before viewing:

Not real pleased with the whole vid run......:sleep:....couldnt open her up at all........i know the first look is what folks remember so keep in mind this was a "trial" run and i set things up like i thought they should be............wild guesses in a few areas for a boat this big. She's faster than she looks in the vid cuz of the sheer size.

1. Went to the neighborhood lake cuz there is a resue boat there..........full size boat..........needed that "comfort" for the first time. The lake is a bit small for the big ones.....had to make some slow turns.

2. Never brought it in for a temp check........or any check for that matter after 1 minute and I know better...:doh:.....got all excited and caught up in it, and feel pretty much like an idiot..........we've all pretty much been there

3. Never got it past about 2/3 throttle cuz of the lifting........

4. ESC thermaled due to not much water flow for some reason.........dont know if i picked something up running so close to the weeds......or if there is too much resistance in the long series of lines.....too small of rudder pickup........not sure, have to figure that one out........there wasnt much water in the tubes when it came in.

5. ESC was still working after cool down 30 minutes later........no burned smell, no popped caps.............melted the shrink right off of it though.:o

6. Motor was 137* without much cooling i guess............

7. ESC caps were over 200*

8. Gonna have to lower the strut i imagine to get the rear up................this was all just done under "what i thought" would be good type of guidlines.

9. The 2028 is a HOG.

Cooling is obviously an issue..............but the big 2028 handled a 3+ minute run with not much cooling i imagine

Gotta get the rear up i guess.................Any input is appreciated

Never fear........WOT runs and 60+ will follow soon!!!!!! I go down swingin'!:bounce:


Xh6mBqTAgHE

[Rumdog]

Where is your CG at relative to the sponson transoms?

[keithbradley]

It looks like it has potential for speed in the short bursts where you start to roll into it...I was expecting a lot slower after reading your disclaimer!
It did look extremely wet though, especially with the grandma driving in the turns. I could see why it would run hot if it didnt have optimum water flow. It should run a lot cooler just getting it on a bigger lake where you can drive it harder, aside from teh cooling problem.

Glad your SF240 didnt puke. If the caps were that hot, I wonder if it would be a good idea to just replace them...caps are pretty cheap.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys............Rum, the cg is 4.5 inches behind the trailing bottom edges of the sponsons.........remember, 50 incher here, so let's keep that in our formula!:smile:

Keith, yep, grandma in the turns, but I'm sure you saw the room or lack of, that I had. I have the larger long lake to open her up in, but I gotta get the attitude figured out first.

Thanks

[Brushless55]

it looks like it has more to give :thumbup1:

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks brushless.......................its got alot left in it.................i was easing into the throttle and never went over 2/3 into it.

I have to get the strut right and maybe move the cg up an inch or two...................kinda wish i had waited to vid it now.....................but thought i'd share it. Heck, my Elam goes 53.........this thing outta hit 60 when she's dialed in!!

[Brushless55]

we are glad you posted the video anyway!! :beerchug:

[Make-a-Wake]

Here's the strut setup.................not very deep............and it has a bit of positive.

Lower it and add some Neg..................?????

[ron1950]

i would try a smaller prop first maybe a 67mm and maybe use an external water pick up for cooling ....my proboat 1/8 gas hydro has two water pickups.......if u can adjust the strut give it atry.....rember to do it in small increments ..u dont want to make it worse......i want to se that that thing fly....keep those vids comeing

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks for the confidence boost there Ron!! I'll get her ripping if its the last thing i do!

I'm running a 63mm right now.............the motor and ESC can certainly handle it apparently.

The boat came with an external pickup, but it looked useless............barely would even be in the water...........so i took it off........just the brass tube and line. I guess i could put a long brass tube on and try it..........???

[madgadget]

Outstanding maiden and vid:thumbup1:

[Rumdog]

That rudder looks SUPER long!

[keithbradley]

Do you have any idea what the pitch is on that prop, or what kind of lift it has? Can you tell at all just by looking at it? I wonder if you ran a standard prop around that size (instead of a larger one cut down) what it would do. I think the big gasser props take a lot different approach to making a boat run well than the standard props we usually run on FE boats due to their lower RPMs...it might act completely different with another prop of similar diameter:confused2:

[old guy]

I'm doing a 54" MHZ hydo and was told to put the CG at 2.5" behind the sponson not sure if that will help you
Rick

[Make-a-Wake]

Quote Rumdog - "That rudder looks SUPER long!"

Its the standard rudder that came with it, came with strut, flex and rudder. The rudder is 5.75 inches long. Did you ever come up with a CG recommendation based on it being 4.5" back at the moment..................?

Quote Keith - "Do you have any idea what the pitch is on that prop, or what kind of lift it has?"

It is listed as a 1.4 pitch on the site................I have an Octura 1460 i need to bore out to 5mm that i can try as well.

Quote Rick - "I'm doing a 54" MHZ hydo and was told to put the CG at 2.5" behind the sponson not sure if that will help you"

Thanks Rick! I may have to move the batts forward........i was already sorta checkin out how i would do it earlier this evening. What power are you running.......motor/cells etc..........?

[old guy]

Mine is going to have 2 motors lol I'm going to make it with a QDHTR Quick draw and after I get it all set up I will make a motor mont for the Castle 2028 780kv I have on it's way to me now. I will run it on 10S not sure what ESC I will use but it sounds like the one you are using takes a licking and keep on ticking :beerchug: I just thought it would be cool to show up at a race with 1 boat and race it in 2 classes. One thing I like to do with all my boats is set up the cooling water exit so as I drive by I can make sure it's getting water if I can't see any water coming out time to come in. I was told to that my CG should be 1/2" back but I'm going to start with 2.5" that's where I was told to put my C/G by some of the Gas gusy that race these big boats. hope this helps
Rick

[TotalPackage]

Quote Rumdog - "That rudder looks SUPER long!"

Its the standard rudder that came with it, came with strut, flex and rudder. The rudder is 5.75 inches long. Did you ever come up with a CG recommendation based on it being 4.5" back at the moment..................?

Quote Keith - "Do you have any idea what the pitch is on that prop, or what kind of lift it has?"

It is listed as a 1.4 pitch on the site................I have an Octura 1460 i need to bore out to 5mm that i can try as well.

Quote Rick - "I'm doing a 54" MHZ hydo and was told to put the CG at 2.5" behind the sponson not sure if that will help you"

Thanks Rick! I may have to move the batts forward........i was already sorta checkin out how i would do it earlier this evening. What power are you running.......motor/cells etc..........?

That boring out is gonna be a pain an introduce possible balance issues. Im beggin you to leave that alone and get a 3/16 or a 1/4 turned down to 3/16. Are you gonna commit yourself to that endeavor at every prop change?
If you runnin around 25k a 457 should be a good one to try but at the same time just looks like some balance issues to me.Nice rooster though.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks, I'll have to consider a shaft change possibly...........we'll see. The motor is the same diameter and 21mm longer than a 5692 leopard.

[TotalPackage]

Good gracious. You could cut a half to 3/4 of an inch off that strut if it wount hit your water pickup.

[Make-a-Wake]

Took her out again, and she got past the wobble stage which was more minimal due to strut adjustment, and got goin!. Ran great, guesstimation is near 50, but after 4 laps she stopped dead. The Strut, which has ONE bolt(never figured that out), bent forward under all the pushing pressure, and bent the double teflon tube in half, snapping the flex. I'm trying to figure out where they expceted the thrust to be applied with a flex cable and a teflon stuffing tube?

Anyhow...............ordering a large speedmaster strut, 1/4 flex turned down to 3/16 for more prop options(like the 1460 i have), I plan on bending a large brass tube to make a stuffing tube for the teflon and flex to go in..........its really how it should have been from the get go. But i have 3 times the stock power so i can be disappointed................

Next weekend she'll be up and running with the "proper" stuff. :bounce:

Pics of the Double teflon stuffing tube........

Keep watchin' for my 60 mph run here in the next week or so!:rockon2:

[Rumdog]

Wait... your running no gap between the drive dog and strut?

[Make-a-Wake]

I ran it with a gap............put the sheer push of the prop bent the strut in and up............there's only one bolt in it...............thats what i was wondering. How can a strut stay in place with only one bolt and such power. I have one bolt on my elam strut but there's a solid stuffing tube, its never moved. The stock setup is really not a sturdy one................it'll be fixed though

[martno1fan]

I ran my zippkits rockett with a strut with one bolt ,a rudder with one bolt too,6.5 hp zenoah and she clocked 69 mph never broke a flex or snapped anything.My advice is ditch the teflon liners theyre poop :thumbsdown:.The hull needs to balance at no more than 1-1 /2" behind the sponsons if you ask me,you also need a prop with lots of lift(no rounded tips),i ran a 6717/3 boat ran 60 all day in most conditions.Id love to build an electric hydro might need to have a go with one of my Comets theyre 50" also.
Mart

http://www.youtube.com/user/martno1fan#p/u/10/wVGBWC_3MuY

[keithbradley]

So...Im trying to figure this out. Was the strut pushing against the stuffing tube, or was there a gap between the stuffing tube and the back of the strut, with only exposed teflon liner?

Sorry that happened bro. Im trying to figure out exactly whats going on with yours so I dont hav eto worry about it when I put my mono in the water. On mine the strut hits the back of the transom, so I think Im ok (other than the fact the stuffing tube is held in with a DAB of glue in one spot).

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys. Mart, does yours have a brass stuffing tube??

You see, mine is an exposed double walled teflon liner........thats it..............then the 1/4 flex inside. The teflon tube slides inside the front of the strut, when the strut mount let go, the strut pushed forward and up..........there is no strength to a teflon tube or flex being bent with so much force and it gave way.

I need to add a second bolt to the strut i guess.................

[keithbradley]

Thanks guys. Mart, does yours have a brass stuffing tube??

You see, mine is an exposed double walled teflon liner........thats it..............then the 1/4 flex inside. The teflon tube slides inside the front of the strut, when the strut mount let go, the strut pushed forward and up..........there is no strength to a teflon tube or flex being bent with so much force and it gave way.

I need to add a second bolt to the strut i guess.................

:eek:

I have that double insulated crap too, and it goes inside the strut a little, but both liners are also inside a stuffing tube. Looks like aluminum. Sucks that it broke on you but it brought a couple things to my attention so thanks for sharing w/us:thumbup1:

Oh...and mine has bearings in the strut and a spacer behind the drive dog, so you wouldn't run a gap.

[Make-a-Wake]

So you see now that mine is really kinda lame............nothing but exposed teflon............so Keith, what would you recommend? A bent brass stuffing tube all the way down to the strut? Thats my plan right now unless i hear something more logical.

Mine has the bearing on the end as well..........one inside too...............but i still left a small gap which im sure was eliminated under the torque load.

[keithbradley]

So you see now that mine is really kinda lame............nothing but exposed teflon............so Keith, what would you recommend? A bent brass stuffing tube all the way down to the strut? Thats my plan right now unless i hear something more logical.

Mine has the bearing on the end as well..........one inside too...............but i still left a small gap which im sure was eliminated under the torque load.

I think if youre getting a new flex, you are going to need a new strut anyway, unless you can find a bushing for it that will work somehow...its pretty large diameter though. I dont know any way other than running a new stuffing tube.

[Make-a-Wake]

I am ordering the big speedmaster strut and a 1/4" flex turned down to 3/16 so that i have all the prop options and "normal" sizes to work with............

Here's the strut

[TotalPackage]

:eek:

I have that double insulated crap too, and it goes inside the strut a little, but both liners are also inside a stuffing tube. Looks like aluminum. Sucks that it broke on you but it brought a couple things to my attention so thanks for sharing w/us:thumbup1:
Oh...and mine has bearings in the strut and a spacer behind the drive dog, so you wouldn't run a gap.

the gap is for the shortened flex shaft under load you need a gap either way no matter it you have bearings in the strut or not.
Else the flexshaft constricts under load so a few mm of gap frees things up. You water pick up can be short a s long as it is on a planing surface like just of the rear tip on the sponsons o off the transom al least as deep as the strut.

[martno1fan]

Ahh now im with you,ive seen a few Chinese imported boats like that,it doesnt work you need a brass propshaft tube that goes into the strut.No teflon liner needed,just use grease or an oiler.To stop grease slinging round inside you can install a radio box rubber boot over the tube and the flex and it seals it enough to keep things clean without causing any drag :smile:.Also leave a gap behind the strut or as said the flex will shrink and bind which sounds like what happened.

[keithbradley]

the gap is for the shortened flex shaft under load you need a gap either way no matter it you have bearings in the strut or not.
Else the flexshaft constricts under load so a few mm of gap frees things up. You water pick up can be short a s long as it is on a planing surface like just of the rear tip on the sponsons o off the transom al least as deep as the strut.

Not really.
The bearing and spacer on my setup acts as a thrust bearing. If I had a gap like I would run with a normal flex, the bearing would fall out of the strut:eek:

[old guy]

The only time you can set up a strut with out a gap is if you have a square drive at the motor end and then you should have a thrust bearing on the prop shaft between the strut and prop. This set up puts all the pushing power on the strut on like the gap set up that puts it on the motor with the round motor coupler. If you have bearings in your strut and they are lose you need to lock them in place just my 2 cents:beerchug:

[TotalPackage]

Not really.
The bearing and spacer on my setup acts as a thrust bearing. If I had a gap like I would run with a normal flex, the bearing would fall out of the strut:eek:

Keith yes defintately do somthing with that . Scuff the race and epoxy or locktight it in but u need a gap at least 1/8-3/16. :Peace_Sign:
Teflon liner basically just stops the cable from slapping back and forth inside the stuffing tube.They dont really change the structure. some of you probably havent soldered a piece of brass tube that goes just inside your stuffing tube at the end that protrudes out about a 1/4 inch then you let this go inside your strut you slide the liner in from the motor side till it butts inside agains the other side of the brass tube/shoulder you soldered in the stuffing tube. Installing liners is a pain after the stuffing tube is bent and installed. The liners also reduce the under water drag if the stuffing tube doesnt go inside the nose of the strut.

[Make-a-Wake]

Having alot of trouble getting parts for the new driveline.........................a flex I ordered from Delaware came in today.........it was a smashed empty box...............:cursing: Seems there's always one piece that i cant find..........or get delivered to me.

Now im going 1/4 flex and 1/4 shaft instead of the step down 3/16......gonna limit me on prop a bit but im sick of surfing the internet for hours looking for that exact item i need.

Moved the batts further forward with a little modding of the old Gas tank mount.

Just lettin folks know i havent put her aside................i'm itchin to get her back in the water!:bounce: She ran very well the other day til the strut/flex issue..............

[martno1fan]

Sory to hear about your problems with the shafts,it sucks when things dont arrive on time or not at all .Ive just managed to get my items from Hobby king after over a month of waiting and many unanswered emails :cursing::cursing:.
Incidently if you dont mind ordering from the UK dave Marles has the stepped down 1/4" flex and 3/16 stub shafts but theyre 30" long :ThumbsDown01:.,maybe he can get shorter ones or at least cut these down a bit to save on postage.
Mart
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FLEXISHAFT-1-4-STEPPED-3-16-30-flexshaft-rc-boat-/150570526707?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item230eb3e7f3

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Mart, appreciate the help........................

[Make-a-Wake]

Finally got my flexshaft................this one is 1/4", no step down to 3/16, so i had to get a 1/4" prop. Went with a big Prather 270...................my crystal ball tells me it should be a good choice.............its very scientific:olleyes: . Cant be told i'm wimping out on prop size.............got a 1/4" dog as well.

Pic of it next to a 645...........it's a big'n.:thumbup1:

Should be able to get this beast back in the water on Wednesday:banana:

[keithbradley]

Wow! She oughtta be violent with that prop! Cant wait to see the vid! Are you going to try to get in in some bigger water or the same place?

[Make-a-Wake]

That was just my neighborhood lake which is quite good for 35" or less boats, i have plenty of big water nearby, gonna go to one of those spots. Got my strut on and added a second adjustment bolt so there will be no movement of it at all............i think everything is in order now.:thumbup1:

"Violent" - like the word choice!:buttrock:

[TotalPackage]

With a gap I hope. I wanna see this big hog run.

[Make-a-Wake]

With a gap I hope. I wanna see this big hog run.

Yep, about a 2-3mm gap for flex shrinkage......................i'm getting excited, this thing may hit mid 60's....................i'll check temps and so forth, if its all cool, i can go up on prop!:w00t:

[old guy]

where is your C/G going to be this time??
Old guy

[Make-a-Wake]

Old guy, cg is now about 3" back of the bottom of the sponsons....moved the packs up 2 inches last nite. Got the new strut on and cut the 1/4" flex that came in, soldered the cut end and it all fits very well.

Went with dual water cooling sytems since it was already made that way, just added a long brass tube for the ESC intake.........its long but will reach down into the water for some good pressure.

The big Prather has been sharpened and polished up and i should be able to hit the water once i get back from the hardware store to get a prop nut..............didnt see one on kintec's site when i got the flex.................

Will most likely have a vid guy if i can drag him away from work for a short time............

[TotalPackage]

you running a 1 p setup make?

[Make-a-Wake]

Heavens no..........not with the 2028 in a 50" boat, i have 6 batts in there, each 3s 5000 40c for 9s2p. 4 batts on the bottom and two up top.

Unfortunately my run had to be aborted for today..........very disappointed, day got uglier as it went on and by the time i got to the "big water" lake it was 20 mph winds, cold, and starting to white cap. Im not interested in running a new boat in "setup" phase in those conditions. Gonna head out tomorrow morning early before work when there should be some glass!! I was really looking forward to running but oh well...............

[keithbradley]

Hopefully you can get a video...I want to see this thing move! My big boat is mostly sitting while my 3 current builds have to share attention. Im thinking some video of your hydro may keep me held over until mines done...

[TotalPackage]

Heavens no..........not with the 2028 in a 50" boat, i have 6 batts in there, each 3s 5000 40c for 9s2p. 4 batts on the bottom and two up top.

Unfortunately my run had to be aborted for today..........very disappointed, day got uglier as it went on and by the time i got to the "big water" lake it was 20 mph winds, cold, and starting to white cap. Im not interested in running a new boat in "setup" phase in those conditions. Gonna head out tomorrow morning early before work when there should be some glass!! I was really looking forward to running but oh well...............

My boy. hope you get some vid .Ill be up looking for it im sure you wont have time to upload it to you tube before work:mad: lol

[TotalPackage]

No amp concerns for the 2028 turning that big prop?Did the 2028 come with any specs or parameters to put in the fe calc?

[Make-a-Wake]

Here's a much better run...........i was still a bit wimpy, could have aired her out a bit longer in the straights and been more aggressive in the turns but that will come.

She's like a V8 mustang with a 4:10 rear-end.....instant torque, and gobs of it. This is with a Prather 270.....she can take more for sure!

Temps all good with the new twin pickup setup, gonna check the mah usage when i charge up tonite.

The Castle 2028 is a real bruiser! :buttrock:

Live in person she's alot faster than the vid seems due to the sheer size.............pretty impressive when she barrells on by!:thumbup1:


0T9uK0elTs0

[keithbradley]

Awesome dude. Freaking awesome. I wish you lived closer so we could run the big hogs together. I've never been a huge fan of teh little "bounce-all-over on top of the water" hydros, but that thing looks like a blast.
Well done. Glad there were no issues this time.:thumbup1:

[Brushless55]

Very cool man!
makes me wana get a Gas Whip :buttrock:

[old guy]

if you are using a 270 my be try a 65X18/3 and 67X17/3 67X19/3 keep a eye on the temps but thoughs are gas props for that size boat if you can swing them you just went a lot faster if you like I can give you a link to guy in the U.S. that does up voodoo ones for $70 each got 2 new ones to day and they are nice props
Rick

[woodster]

Very nice! Looks like she's running great.. Can't wait to get mine all dialed in :w00t:

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys!

Keith, i like the big one's now too!! Probably gonna sell my 8s/Neu Elam. BTW, in my excitement, i had my GPS tucked safely in my pocket :tongue_smilie:

woodster, what you got????

[woodster]

Thanks guys!

Keith, i like the big one's now too!! Probably gonna sell my 8s/Neu Elam. BTW, in my excitement, i had my GPS tucked safely in my pocket :tongue_smilie:

woodster, what you got????

I picked up an Aeromarine miss Budweiser 1/8th scale. It's a nitro boat so I'm converting to brushless also. As soon as it arrives i'll post a build thread. Bought a Castle HV240 and a Neu 2215 motor. Gonna run on 10S 2P and see how she does. Sounds like a very similar boat build to yours and I'm hoping I get the same performance you got. Your boat looks great! :thumbup:

[Make-a-Wake]

Cool, cant wait for your build to start! I may try an Octura 470/3 or a Prather 275 next.........

Here's a buddy of mine's thread on his 1/8 Aeromarine Miller high life......there are vids scattered throughout

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1294231

Charging my packs for another go in the morning:rockon2:

[Make-a-Wake]

First set of batts just took 2400mah...........the run was 2 minutes on the nose................any calculations to come up with based on that info................amp draw etc..............??? The batts are 5000 40c's

[Make-a-Wake]

I'm eyeing this prop.........

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PROPELLER-6717-3-rc-model-boat-1-4-Zenoah-bal-sharp_W0QQitemZ120694103532QQcategoryZ140972QQcmdZ ViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLS L%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BMRU-220%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn %3D8%26pmod%3D200582844105%252B200582844105%26po%3 D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7652356719237541497

[keithbradley]

First set of batts just took 2400mah...........the run was 2 minutes on the nose................any calculations to come up with based on that info................amp draw etc..............??? The batts are 5000 40c's

If you're running 2p thats 144A...
2/60 (minutes ran/minutes in an hour) = 30
2400x2 (2p) = 4800mah (4.8AH)

4.8 x 30 = 144A

[Make-a-Wake]

Nice formula!! So i got a fair amount of "room" left in the 2028/SF240 setup.........

144 amps x 33.3(9s nominal voltage) = 4795 watts............A little over 6 horse?

[Brushless55]

First set of batts just took 2400mah...........the run was 2 minutes on the nose................any calculations to come up with based on that info................amp draw etc..............??? The batts are 5000 40c's

easy tool for ya :thumbup1:
http://offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm

[Make-a-Wake]

easy tool for ya :thumbup1:
http://offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm

Sweet!:thumbup1:

I can go with more prop then i guess.............what are any thoughts on the 3 blader i posted above?

[woodster]

I'm eyeing this prop.........

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PROPELLER-6717-3-rc-model-boat-1-4-Zenoah-bal-sharp_W0QQitemZ120694103532QQcategoryZ140972QQcmdZ ViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLS L%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BMRU-220%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn %3D8%26pmod%3D200582844105%252B200582844105%26po%3 D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7652356719237541497

I'm not even sure where to start with props? Any ideas?

[keithbradley]

Nice formula!! So i got a fair amount of "room" left in the 2028/SF240 setup.........

144 amps x 33.3(9s nominal voltage) = 4795 watts............A little over 6 horse?

Thats what you're drawing, obviously there is an efficiency issue to consider, some of that is used to keep your electronics nice and warm:tongue_smilie: 1HP is 746 watts, but I always figure for every 1000watts I draw I make 1HP...I could be off though, I like to figure things on teh lower end in case the HP police come asking for proof...

Keep in mind that is an average too. There are surely highs and lows above and below that. How did everything do temp wise this time?

[Make-a-Wake]

I'm not even sure where to start with props? Any ideas?

Did you check out that thread of the 1/8 Miller areomarine i posted earlier? Bill went thru alot of experimenting...........but i think he was running a Neu 1527.

Based on the 144a average draw, i should spin the 67mm 3 blader no problem. May try a Prather 275 and an Octura 470/3..............may just order them together...........

[TotalPackage]

That big thing runs good. If you only drawing 144 amps thats sick.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thats what you're drawing, obviously there is an efficiency issue to consider, some of that is used to keep your electronics nice and warm:tongue_smilie: 1HP is 746 watts, but I always figure for every 1000watts I draw I make 1HP...I could be off though, I like to figure things on teh lower end in case the HP police come asking for proof...

Keep in mind that is an average too. There are surely highs and lows above and below that. How did everything do temp wise this time?

Temps were good..................the dual intake system works better.

So based on the 144a average, it may have been 200 in the straights for example?

[Make-a-Wake]

Headin' out again in the AM for a GPS run on some glass.......i'll be movin down the lake for some long straightaway runs! Vid of course...............

[chummer]

Gotta subscribe to this one!!!

Very nice, can't wait to see what your final results are with this baby. These Castle motors keep on amazing me.:thumbup:

[martno1fan]

She looks really good,try the 6717/3 from propshop.I got mine balanced and sharpend from dasboata and that prop was by far the best on my gas hydro,she topped out at 69 mph with that prop with a 6+ hp zenoah.You need alifting prop,the 270 is probably a better mono prop but the 6717/3 has the lift needed to get the rear end up and keep the nose down.
Mart

[Make-a-Wake]

New Vid of some long WOT runs, GPS reading at end of vid.

Great closeups starting at 1:00, shows how it rides. I think i'm gonna run 10s2p next. Temps were 117* motor, and 138* ESC, run was 2 1/2 minutes, vid was shortened to spare you of more laps.

Really pleased with this boat, its fairly bulletproof with the 1/4" drive, and sturdy motor mount......plus the new strut with extra bolt to prevent it "caving" in again.

Vid:


aSP2wLB7rFM

[keithbradley]

:thumbup1:
Beautiful!

Bring on 10s!

[Make-a-Wake]

Hey Keith, average amp draw with the long straights in the run was 185a with your formula......guess i'm puttin' out closer to 8 horse...............i still have a little room left with the SF240hv and good temps...................10s is looking better and better............hmmmm

[martno1fan]

Yes shes getting there,but your prop isnt lifting the rear end enough.She should be running on the prop and shes not which is why i suggested the 6717/3 which should provide you with the lift your not getting from the 270.Use the stock prop not one with rounded tips as the tips are what give the lift.Once shes riding on the prop you will see a big increase in speed.If you have 10 hp you should see well over 60 mph,i hit high 60s in a 18lb t boat with 6+ hp.You dont need more power you need the right prop :thumbup1:.
Mart

[chummer]

Lookin' good, still looks like it's capable of more though.

I would take the advice of martno1fan. Try a different prop. That prather 270 is a good prop but I think it would work better on a mono.

I don't know the first thing about Hydro's other than what I have read on OSE but it just does not look like it's running smooth enough yet. I think there is more speed and handling to be found in that setup.

Keep at it, your doing great.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

[Brushless55]

man that thing sounds and looks so smoooth!!
10s2p with lifter prop I bet 70's :buttrock:

so on 10,000mah what would be the average runtimes
reason for the question, I would love to run a whip with this motor against the gas guys this year at NAMBA20 :bounce:

[martno1fan]

Actually i think that boat with that setup is capable of mid to high 60s with just one change,the prop.6717/3 is a great prop,6719/3 also is a great sports hydro prop which might suit your 10 hp even better.
Mart

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks guys! I got my 1/4 to 3/16 reduction shaft in from aeromarine so i have the option of other props that need a 3/16. I have a 1460 that i bought for a 3/16.........i'll give it a shot next on 10s....should be better when upping the voltage and give it a bit more lift. I can also give the other prop suggested by martno a shot......cant find it though on OSE, got a link anyone?

Here's a pic of it running by on the closer straightaway........looks pretty good to me........i had to do it the redneck way by taking a pic of the computer screen....LOL:olleyes:

Brushless, i estimate about 4 - 4 1/2 minute runtime on 10,000..............

[Make-a-Wake]

What about this prop..........it may work well

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9787

[Brushless01]

Thats the prop used as an upgrade on the Rio 51 not sure if it will work on a hydro but always worth a try.

[old guy]

You are looking for a 6518/3 or 6717/3 or 6719/3 go to JRCBD you can get them off there or ask dasbouta on here to make you up some these 3 props are the most common props for the large gas hydros, yes there are lots out there but these ones you will see in every gas guys prop box just my 2 cents:beerchug:
Rick

[martno1fan]

What about this prop..........it may work well

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqub9787

Nope its a mono prop,notice the rounded tips,get yourself a 6717/3 with normal tips ie not removedlol.Removing the tips removes the lift in most props.Try Dasboata he usually has them in stock,get one thats been balanced and sharpened.
Mart
ps thats two of us who have suggested the 6717/3 and 6719/3 give Chris a shout he will sort you out.He sells stock propshop props but also ones hes worked which is what id advise unless you dont mind working them yourself.
http://www.dasboata.com/

[Brushless55]

so maybe the 6518/3 on 10s? :huh:

[Make-a-Wake]

I looked into the 6717 and 6518..............may get one, kinda steep on the price though. In the meantime i will try my 1460 on 10s, its a lifter made for hydros.

Why do the Octura lifter props for Hydros have rounded tips then?

[Brushless55]

I looked into the 6717 and 6518..............may get one, kinda steep on the price though. In the meantime i will try my 1460 on 10s, its a lifter made for hydros.

Why do the Octura lifter props for Hydros have rounded tips then?

:popcorn2:

[old guy]

Buy a raw prop from Dasboata for less. if you get one all done up when you see it you will see the $$$$$$$$$$ they are nice and you will go alot faster not a little if you can hook it up on 10S that thing should be high 60s they are getting high 60 low 70 with 6.5hp gas motors so if that thing can spinner up she is going to fly:bounce::bounce::beerchug:

[martno1fan]

Yes i agree,i used to do my own props and thought i did a pretty good job untill i got one from Dasboata.His props are awesome,and boy do they perform, in fact come to think of it why not ask him which prop to use,let him know your power what type of hull and im sure he will suggest the right prop.
Mart

[Brushless55]

Yes i agree,i used to do my own props and thought i did a pretty good job untill i got one from Dasboata.His props are awesome,and boy do they perform, in fact come to think of it why not ask him which prop to use,let him know your power what type of hull and im sure he will suggest the right prop.
Mart

Awh man!
great idea :rockon2:

[Make-a-Wake]

OK...............all ready for a mid morning run!:bounce:

10s2p in place.......looks like a spaghetti jungle. Battery setup: 3s + 3s + 2s + 2s = 10s x 2. All 40c 5000mah and same brand, should work great.

1460 has been mounted on the 1/4" to 3/16" flex.

I'm not really expecting much more speed if any, but this may get the rear end up a bit. I bet the 6717/3 will be one, gonna have to order it when i confer with Dasboata.

[keithbradley]

OK...............all ready for a mid morning run!:bounce:

10s2p in place.......looks like a spaghetti jungle. Battery setup: 3s + 3s + 2s + 2s = 10s x 2. All 40c 5000mah and same brand, should work great.

1460 has been mounted on the 1/4" to 3/16" flex.

I'm not really expecting much more speed if any, but this may get the rear end up a bit. I bet the 6717/3 will be one, gonna have to order it when i confer with Dasboata.

Are you taking video? Make sure the wires on those batteries are as short as you can get them. Thats a lot of batteries in series. I've done it before and it worked well, I just kept the wires as short as possible.

[Make-a-Wake]

Yeah........i'm taking vid.....its obligatory isnt it..:Peace_Sign:

The batt wires are standard length, never thought about the total length, but when the voltage passes thru, it will have gone thru about 35" of wire.....yikes :ohmy:

Its all heavy guage, and this is just for testing. If i wind up going 10s2p I will get four 5s batts.

[chummer]

OK...............all ready for a mid morning run!:bounce:

Lookin' forward to the vid. Lovin' this build!

:popcorn2:

[woodster]

Yeah........i'm taking vid.....its obligatory isnt it..:Peace_Sign:

The batt wires are standard length, never thought about the total length, but when the voltage passes thru, it will have gone thru about 35" of wire.....yikes :ohmy:

Its all heavy guage, and this is just for testing. If i wind up going 10s2p I will get four 5s batts.

You need four 5S batts to get 10S 2P? Oh damn lol. I need to find more room in my boat I guess. I'm gonna run that also

[martno1fan]

Good luck with it,cant wait to see it with a 6717/3 or 6719/3 its gonna bloody fly :thumbup1:.
Mart
ps heres some interesting info on props.
http://www.unitedboaterscoop.com/html/propeller-basics-part3.html

[TotalPackage]

Id like to see you try maybe a octura 1667 on that boat with that strong motor.I youre gonna get a gas prop why not try a cnc like in the photo ?BUT I think 184 amp average is quite healthy for a hydro so id trim with the prop in your wot run first (air it out) before I move on to another prop. Need to get you an eagle tree or something to give you real time data.

[Make-a-Wake]

Complete Failure!

The 1460 couldn't even get it on plane..............went 25 and plowed, i quit after a minute or so of trying. The Prather 270 seems good to me now.'

I pm'd Dasboata and he is thinking about what to throw on it, i told him about the 6717/3 and he said he thought it was too big................we'll see what he comes up with.

[martno1fan]

Hmm i dont think the 6717/3 prop is too big for 10 hp.Did you tell him what power your motors are capable of ?.Its smaller than the 270,ok has an extra blade but id bet any money it will make that boat fly.

[old guy]

my first pic was the 6518/3 and then up from there 6717/3 the 6518/3 is a lot smaller than that 270 yes make sure he knows the power of the motor becouse we swing them in or gas boats with 6hp and you said on 10S you should be around 10HP
Rick

[Brushless55]

my first pic was the 6518/3 and then up from there 6717/3 the 6518/3 is a lot smaller than that 270 yes make sure he knows the power of the motor becouse we swing them in or gas boats with 6hp and you said on 10S you should be around 10HP
Rick

:iagree:

[Make-a-Wake]

my first pic was the 6518/3 and then up from there 6717/3 the 6518/3 is a lot smaller than that 270 yes make sure he knows the power of the motor becouse we swing them in or gas boats with 6hp and you said on 10S you should be around 10HP
Rick

Rick, he actually suggested a 6518/3, i asked him if it was enough diameter......i just sent the pm so he hasnt had time to get it..........does the third blade help in place of diameter??

[old guy]

the size of these blades are way smaller than a 270 not sure how to say this but they are narrower in size so they are not just smaller in Diameter. go to voodoopropellers.com and have a look at one and have your 270 in your hand. you will see what I mean. they are a good prop I have like 6 of them no you cant have one:bounce: just think on a hydro at say 17500 they get 65 to 70 out of one not shure the RPM you get on 10S but if it's more that boat is going to fly you will need to take it up slow to make sure it's trimed. water at this speed is hard and will brake that boat. Trust me I know hope this helps:beerchug:
Rick

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Rick.................are you building a boat with a 2028..........???

[RandyatBBY]

The problem with the 10HP motors is the amp spike I tried a 1967/3 blade with the large Little screamer with a KV of 500rpm and I blew my 40.160 Schultz said I was pulling 300 amps for way too long like 3 seconds. It cost me $425 smackers! What we need is bigger motors with the possibility of 17,000 to 20,000RPM under load and a amp draw of 90.

[Make-a-Wake]

The problem with the 10HP motors is the amp spike I tried a 1967/3 blade with the large Little screamer with a KV of 500rpm and I blew my 40.160 Schultz said I was pulling 300 amps for way too long like 3 seconds. It cost me $425 smackers! What we need is bigger motors with the possibility of 17,000 to 20,000RPM under load and a amp draw of 90.

How many cells...........what hull....................?

[old guy]

Thanks Rick.................are you building a boat with a 2028..........???

54" MHZ hydro it will have a QDHTR 25 in it and it will be made so it can come out and then drop in the FE set and go with it . thats the plan any way so 1 boat and run 2 classes at the race:beerchug:

[RandyatBBY]

How many cells...........what hull....................?

10S2P total of 10,000 Mah the Pro Boat set up by me, hear is the build.


http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=11758

[Make-a-Wake]

Randy, what is your max speed you have attained?

[RandyatBBY]

Randy, what is your max speed you have attained?

62 MPH sofar with the smaller motor. I put in a 2230 1Y to go faster. I ran my 1973 Miss Budweiser at 70MPH with a 3040 8T

[Make-a-Wake]

10s2p run

Ok, while i am dragging my feet on my new prop (which i am getting) Im still running and trying different stuff......what i found on 10s2p:

Only 4 mph faster
Changed the weight distrubution a tad............not as steady at speed
Temps on ESC 10 degrees higher at 148*
Motor 1 degree higher at 118*
Nose trying to lift a fair amount
Not worth it.........the 3 blade "lifter" prop on 9s should be the sweet spot
Sounds better though!:thumbup1:

Vid:

6Nzq_gUIAYc

[Brushless55]

nice job man!
I'm starting to really itch for a gas size hydro or rigger with this motor on 10s and 12s now :bowdown:

[Make-a-Wake]

Big Water...............Big Wind.................

Thanks brushless...........grab one up!!:thumbup1:

OK, pretty windy, up to 15 mph gusts and fairly big chop..............keep in mind the chop looks small against Big red, but it was good size and it was rolling in towards us so on the long passes she was riding the crests coming in from side to side.

Total runtime was 2:42 and the ESC cut out a bit after the last sprint pass in the vid. It would start back up but only go slow..........possible LVC, not sure what its set at, thought it was 3.0v, batts register 3.82 +/- per cell. Motor was about 130* according to the 5 second finger method(gotten good at it), since my temp gauge wasnt handy, ESC hotter, probably 150* or so. I have to figure out if it was the ESC or thermalling........i'm leaning towards LVC, but i cant seem to get a real good flow thru the speedo, the darn cooling tubes are so small in diameter thru the whole length of them.

I was apprehensive to WOT it every straightaway due to chop, but the run at 1:40 is a WOT for sure and a great sprint......looks like a real 1/1 Hydro!! :bounce:

9s2p........


hv5dLr28LAI

[Make-a-Wake]

BTW Brushless, here was my 'original' first hull choice, but i changed my mind at the last minute:

http://www.nitrorcx.com/99b-12001-tp-1300-kit.html

[keithbradley]

I like the part of the video that goes like this:
????...
:roflol:

Looks good man:thumbup1: Im guessing you are hitting the LVC. If you're only getting less than 3 minute runs, you are pulling enough current to seriously drop voltage under load. Im not surprised that the cells are going under 3v under load and 3.8 unloaded. I have actually hit 3.2v cutoffs with fully charged lipos when the current draw is high enough. Running a series of 4 lipos isnt helping either. Shorten those wires up or go to larger packs and you will see more speed and a bit longer runtime before you hit the LVC.

EDIT:
By the way, I know I owe you at least one video...I'll get one as soon as teh weather cooperates!

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Keith, i was running only 9s2p in this one with three 3s 5000 40c batts in series, then paired with another set for 10,000 mah and 400a cont.

With the amp draw climbing to close to 200 amps, its sucking some big juice...........man, under 3 minutes for 10,000 mah..........??? Gonna check LVC and set it to 3.0 if its not already there.

BTW, i have room for 9s3p.....:rockon2:...........would add a little more weight up front............

[Brushless55]

That looks and sounds awesome!
keep it up bro :rockon2:

[keithbradley]

9s3p? If you have that many lipos you should just buy my mono and throw some in there:roflol:

I'll even take the orange hydro as partial payment:thumbup1:

You may want to invest in a large trailer to haul around so many big boats though...:eek:

Have you GPSed this boat yet?

[Make-a-Wake]

9s3p? If you have that many lipos you should just buy my mono and throw some in there:roflol:

I'll even take the orange hydro as partial payment:thumbup1:

You may want to invest in a large trailer to haul around so many big boats though...:eek:

Have you GPSed this boat yet?

As tempting as your very cool Boat is.........I may be going another avenue for large mono. Yes, i have shown the Garmin GPS at the end of three of the vids..............59 mph fastest.........

I happen to have another NIB 2028......:rockon2:..................needs a home

and i am in love with this bad boy:

........

[keithbradley]

As tempting as your very cool Boat is.........I may be going another avenue for large mono. Yes, i have shown the Garmin GPS at the end of three of the vids..............59 mph fastest.........

I happen to have another NIB 2028......:rockon2:..................needs a home

and i am in love with this bad boy:

........

:tape:
I've never stuck around to see the very end of the videos I guess...what a stupid question, huh?:laugh:

I looked at that mono too...pretty sweet. RCMK has some pretty sweet looking large monos too but getting them to ship them here is anothr thing.

So does this mean I have to get 59mph or do I get a handicap for having the smaller motor?:biggrin:

[Jacked1]

The hydro really looks like a real one in the vid! It makes me want to get a hydro and a mono from the same place. Too bad cool stuff costs money :mad:

Your boat would be sold if I was graduated Keith! :thumbup1:

Oh and wake, Your comment about enjoying your Villian got me to dust off mine! I completly gutted it and sliced off the transom and made a flat wood one so I will have more room to mount hardware. The glue is drying now! (I can get back to building now since it is spring break).:beerchug:

[Make-a-Wake]

Keith, i'll give you 4 mph.............. The GTX i'm looking at is 65"........you were aware it was the big'n right? There is a smaller 45" version quite similar.

Jared, Thanks for the nice comments, yea, had to run the ol Villain........still fun as can be for a 40 mph basher!

[Make-a-Wake]

Did some checkin on the SF240hv and the nipples for the cooling tubes on the ESC were very small........it was very hard to blow thru the whole length of tube, thru the ESC twice and then back out of the hull. I bored the nipples out and i must have gained 50% more flow..........blowing thru the bored side was much easier and it was very noticable that it was a better air flow out the other side...............gonna do the other side next.

I also replaced an 18" length of cooling tube with straight brass for less resistance in the whole system...........This should really cool things down i hope.........although the ESC hasnt been horribly hot, any cooling help is always a plus.

[millzee]

Are you happy enough with these esc's?

Did some checkin on the SF240hv and the nipples for the cooling tubes on the ESC were very small........it was very hard to blow thru the whole length of tube, thru the ESC twice and then back out of the hull. I bored the nipples out and i must have gained 50% more flow..........blowing thru the bored side was much easier and it was very noticable that it was a better air flow out the other side...............gonna do the other side next.

I also replaced an 18" length of cooling tube with straight brass for less resistance in the whole system...........This should really cool things down i hope.........although the ESC hasnt been horribly hot, any cooling help is always a plus.

[Make-a-Wake]

Yep, the ESC is a good one, no problems yet, has a setup attatchment that you flip small switches up or down to set the parameters. Havent had one problem, and im pulling some high amps with it.

[old guy]

Have you got a cooler on the motor?? If you like this boat I'm looking forward to seeing what you think of it with a good prop on it. I have seen boast go as much as 10MPH faster with a prop change. Got both of my motors in now and they are big and Neu has lipos on sale so just got some of them should see them soon. not sure what ESC I will use but if yours is working good for that price way not.. did you order a new prop yet??
Rick

[Make-a-Wake]

Yep i have a cooling jacket, its earlier in the thread, made it myself and it works just fine and no leaks at all. Man, i gotta get a new prop but im torn here.........i think the 6717 may be too much pitch.............i think i need a 6716 or 6815 something in that range.............not even sure if they are made in that size..................im even looking at an octura 470/3...........

I know im pulling close to 200 amps, so i cant go gonzo on the pitch..............i need a medium lifter.

Jacket pic:

...........

[Brushless55]

200amps just blows me away :hide:

[TotalPackage]

200amps just blows me away :hide:

Why brushless?
Wake do they make a 1467? an octura 1667 would be close to your 6716. Its definately a lifter prop. what your angle ? 0 degrees?I believe you have a hog setup and yes I agree that steve is selling about the best HV high current esc you can get for the money.

[TotalPackage]

the big neus and that castle seem to be our best bet at going up against the other countries high high power setups. I like it wake I like it 200 amp continuous rules:rockon2: Im a little dissapointed in what the US offers in high power esc's. How does the 2028 run with the castle HV 240?

[Make-a-Wake]

I just hit the "buy now" button!

Prop is ordered.....................

Total, i think the 240hv and the 2028 are a great match..........

:thumbup:

[Brushless55]

Why brushless?


Just lots of amps! :w00t:

[Make-a-Wake]

I forgot to mention the prop i got is a 6516..........i talked to Chris(Dasboata) on the phone a couple minutes ago and he told me i needed stainless so he's sending a stainless 6516.........he thinks it will do well and unload the motor for max rpms.

On a side note, i ran some other boats yesterday with some RC buddies, and Stringfly took a few shots of my Pursuit in the chop.......he got some big air with his too!

Thought i'd share the pics of mine..............i think they're cool.

They look better if you click on 'em and enlarge them.:bounce:

[old guy]

you will like the 6516 and you should see the dif, the blade on that prop and the one on the 2028 are like night and day different. now we just need the vid
Rick

[Make-a-Wake]

Got something in the mail..............!!

Chris sure is a quick shipper, and on the phone with him a few nites ago he told me several times that his reputation as a skilled propman as well as a very fast shipper were his biggest concerns.

The SBP 6516 is almost a thing of Beauty polished to such a shine, kinda hate to stick it in the water..........:o

I lowered the strut 3mm and will have a run tomorrow with the 6516!!:buttrock:

[Brushless55]

:banana:

[martno1fan]

Some of the nicest props ive seen he does superb work,looking forward to the next video :popcorn2::popcorn2::thumbup:.
Mart

[Make-a-Wake]

I lowered the strut 3mm as well(down away from the hull botton), that will give a bit more lift as well.....right? I need to get it riding even up on plane, it rides with the rear down more than it should from what i have heard.

[Make-a-Wake]

Holy smokes!!

This beast is gonna hit 70 with this 3 blade once i get her all setup.

Lowered the strut and maybe shouldnt have since i threw the new three blade on, one adjustment at a time and i know better

Anyways..........tough getting on plane but once there the motor is screaming, whole different sound to it, its revving out now, but it is "hopping", need some input please.

Hit 56mph at 3/4 throttle max...............The sound is SO different compared to the last vid..............listen for yourself, its a "scream" now.

Setup help now needed with the 3 blade, thinking of moving the strut back to original position.

sgvSvXUNdJw

[Brushless55]

YES! :rockon2:

[martno1fan]

Really hydros need to hit the water running,in other words launch with the prop spinning this gets em on plane imediateley.Try her with the strut in the orriginal position first see how she runs then and adjust from there would be my suggestion.Launch with the prop spinning enough so when she hits she takes off rather than bogging down.Looks like its going to be very fast for sure.
Mart

[Brushless55]

Hey Mart, with FE we really don't need to toss the Hydro in the water with the prop spinning.. I agree about getting the strut back where it was and try again...

[martno1fan]

If the boats bogging down on takeoff it sureley cant be good for the motor,give it a toss with a few rpm and it will takeoff which i would think will be easier on the motors and the whole setup.This is a large heavy boat so my way of doing it would be the same as with a gas hydro, give it some revs and toss it in with forward momentum.
Mart

[old guy]

I'm not getting in to this one:bounce: but it helps to do some little turns to get it up on step. it helps brake the water off the boat. you have a high speed prop made for high speed at low speed they do not work well. this is not a small FE boat that is 2 lbs
This is a large heavy boat so my way of doing it would be the same as with a gas hydro, give it some revs and toss it in with forward momentum.
hope it helps the little turn thing works good look at your vid and see where you get up on step in the turn it's a old trick hope it helps
Rick

[Brushless55]

If the boats bogging down on takeoff it sureley cant be good for the motor,give it a toss with a few rpm and it will takeoff which i would think will be easier on the motors and the whole setup.This is a large heavy boat so my way of doing it would be the same as with a gas hydro, give it some revs and toss it in with forward momentum.
Mart

reason being to toss a gas or nitro in with the revs up and to crank the hull left and right, is to help the motor get on pipe faster.. they need rpms to make power and get the hull going fast
I've seen many nitros never get on pipe and just push the hull rather than fly across the water and just bog the motor
biggest reason I wont go nitro :w00t:

with these FE's they have full power at take off
in other words the brushless motor really wont bog :Peace_Sign:

[old guy]

in other words the brushless motor really wont bog

Yes that is true it will just cavitate becouse the boat is to wet and the prop spon up to fast. try it both ways and let us know what works best:beerchug: remember this is a heavy boat:sinking-guy:
Rick

[martno1fan]

in other words the brushless motor really wont bog

Yes that is true it will just cavitate becouse the boat is to wet and the prop spon up to fast. try it both ways and let us know what works best:beerchug: remember this is a heavy boat:sinking-guy:
Rick

:iagree:

[Brushless55]

in other words the brushless motor really wont bog

Yes that is true it will just cavitate becouse the boat is to wet and the prop spon up to fast. try it both ways and let us know what works best:beerchug: remember this is a heavy boat:sinking-guy:
Rick

I think with the correct strut height it could help out
another way is just to pin the throttle right off the start and hold on! :rockon2:

most nitros need to be thrown in or they die :roflol:

[Make-a-Wake]

Hmmmmmm, a good bit of discussion since i was last on. I would prefer not to have to toss this behemoth into the lake and gun it simultaniously..........takes two that way, looks pretty lame i would imagine, and the tosser would most likely be my vid man, and i gotta have him ready!

I did see how it "got up" as i turned, i guess that works, and i also have not tried the ol' gun it from the get go...........i bet that would work. Gonna run tomorrow, i havent decided whether to run it with the strut down where it is with the prather to see if it gets the butt up, or move the strut back up and try the 6516 again..........i may try both in 2-3 minute runs each.

[Brushless55]

Carl, I would try the strut where you had it before the prop swap and punch it! :buttrock:

[martno1fan]

I used to toss my old hydro in myself with a few revs,it gets quite easy once youve done it a few times lol.Also dont slow down in the corners too much these things are designed to run flat out in the turns,squeeky bum time hehe.
As for strut height id try it back where it was with this new prop and see what happens before changing anything else.We dont allways have to agree and im not saying im right its just an opinion based on what i found worked with the gas hydro.I know FE is different but the boats are the same and these things take some getting on plane i was just trying to help you get there easier,in the end you will do what you think is right all im saying is try it and see and then decide.Good luck with it :smile:.
Mart

[Brushless55]

I used to toss my old hydro in myself with a few revs,it gets quite easy once youve done it a few times lol.Also dont slow down in the corners too much these things are designed to run flat out in the turns,squeeky bum time hehe.
As for strut height id try it back where it was with this new prop and see what happens before changing anything else.We dont allways have to agree and im not saying im right its just an opinion based on what i found worked with the gas hydro.I know FE is different but the boats are the same and these things take some getting on plane i was just trying to help you get there easier,in the end you will do what you think is right all im saying is try it and see and then decide.Good luck with it :smile:.
Mart

:iagree:

[old guy]

So whats up witht his hydro???? did you get a prop you like and how is the ESC doing I need to buy one for a 48" rigger. Have you tride some props out yet?? let us no lol
Rick