BJ 26 Upgaded Hardware!

[txboatpilot]

Here are a few shots of my new BJ26 with fullers catamaran hardware and other simple modifications!:D This set-up ran much better than the stock out of box. No gps yet but I would est. speeds of 40-45mph. I am running on 2S2P 4350mAh Polyquest lipo's.. And for max. run time I use 4S2P 3700mAh Polyquest lipo's!!

1. Fullers Cat Hardware w/ .150 f/cable and 3/16 to 1/8 prop shaft
2. Remove spin fins and drain plug, (filled holes)
3. Moved Ant. mount to the rear
4. Removed radio box, but reused the wood servo tray (put tray in place of radio box, had to make new linkage for rudder)
5. ESC was moved to center in front of the motor, power wires shortened (mounted w/velcro)
6. Receiver moved and coated with (3M DP270 epoxy)
7. Hatch (filled in hole where ant. came through)
8. Use OSE tape for the hatch to keep water out
9. Prather 220 prop (balanced & polished)

All these mod's helped with turning, stability, smoother driveline, and helps keep the water out!:thumbup: I had fun testing this boat in stock form, it did well. Now it just performs GREAT, and after 5 min of running hard, esc and motor temps were below 90 deg. and 100 deg. on the batteries!! I will keep it around for a while!!!! :smile:

[RCprince]

TX thats the kind of the setup I'm looking for can you point me to which fuller...I want a rudder like the jolly to make it look more scale but what the heck....that inline rudder i like....looking good kid.

[txboatpilot]

RCprince TX thats the kind of the setup I'm looking for can you point me to which fuller...I want a rudder like the jolly to make it look more scale but what the heck....that inline rudder i like....looking good kid.

Here is a link, hardware is about half way down the page..


http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm

[obrien]

I almost went that route. But insted I bought a strut and offset rudder setup. The strut showed up today, hopefully my rudder assembly will be here tomorrow. The stock drive has pretty much gone to crap.

[txboatpilot]

obrien I almost went that route. But insted I bought a strut and offset rudder setup. The strut showed up today, hopefully my rudder assembly will be here tomorrow. The stock drive has pretty much gone to crap.
Today 11:06 AM

I had both off-set and this laying around, so I tried this for steering in both directions.:D Post some pict's when you get it done! If you start running on lipo's and prop up, the stock drive system will not last.:thumbsdown: The stock unit is also flimsy and the u-joint is a JOKE....:bash:

[obrien]

lol I know what you mean. The stock drive system is falling apart already. The stock universal was getting very sloppy so I put a new cable and univeral in, that lasted 2 runs before the universal almost came apart and the cable started to unwind. That and the keeper for the vertical pin on the drive is now gone.

[RCprince]

obrien a flex upgrade is cheaper than buying a replacement uni joint drive.

[txboatpilot]

U-JOINT DRIVES SUUUUUCK!!!!! IMO,,It is one of the biggest flaws in design, that a RTR Brushless Boat can have...

[RCprince]

I had the replace the original one after the first 2 days of running, the second lasted me 2 runs, then I saw deigoboys upgrade..that was all she wrote...the flex is SOOOOOOOOOO much more efficient....Proboats Engineers need to be beating with a couple of those uni-joints as we all yell "NO MORE U-JPOINTS"...80's quackology

[Diegoboy]

Thanks!
It's (flex shaft mod) more efficient if you keep the steerable outdrive.
Nothing beats a good HW replacement though!
I'm going to replace mine after the holidays

*edited for clarification

[txboatpilot]

Diegoboy Thanks!
It's more efficient if you keep the steerable outdrive.


How is the sterrable outdrive "MORE" efficient??

[RCprince]

What he means if your gonna keep the steerable outdrive the flex set up is way more efficient , the uni joint is out of balance, try reving the motor with the u-joint then do it with the flex cable install...with the flex cable it sounds smooth, with the u-joint it sounds like the boat is coming apart...

[Diegoboy]

What I meant to say is...

If one chooses to continue the use of the stock steerable outdrive, then the "flex shaft mod" makes the outdrive more efficient than the stock U-joint.

...but nothing beats the installation of a good set of hardware which I intend to do as soon as the holidays are over and I recover from the financial burden it has caused.

I hope I'm more clear this time. I'll try to do better next time.:doh:

[txboatpilot]

I got you! I was corn fused!

[Diegoboy]

Na, I re-read my post, it was misleading. That's why I edited it. Sorry:blushing:

[GeoRXT]

How does it steer without those metal sponsons?

[txboatpilot]

The boat turns fine w/out the spin fins... This boat is a blast to bash around, it handles well for a RTR with a hardware conversion!!

[GeoRXT]

I guess that will be one of my first mods....Free! Nice!

[txboatpilot]

If you have not upgraded the hardware, I would not suggest removing the spin fins!! With the stock outdrive and no spin fins, the boat is unstable in the turns..

[GeoRXT]

If you have not upgraded the hardware, I would not suggest removing the spin fins!! With the stock outdrive and no spin fins, the boat is unstable in the turns..
Sent you a pm...

[obrien]

If you have not upgraded the hardware, I would not suggest removing the spin fins!! With the stock outdrive and no spin fins, the boat is unstable in the turns..


100% agreed here. The boat may be a tad bit faster, but you can forget turning the boat. It will slide out and most likely flip over.

[GeoRXT]

100% agreed here. The boat may be a tad bit faster, but you can forget turning the boat. It will slide out and most likely flip over.
Got it. But Jeff, will the hardware upgrade help on the top speed of the boat or is it just for handling?

[Steven Vaccaro]

Here are a few shots of my new BJ26 with fullers catamaran hardware and other simple modifications!:D This set-up ran much better than the stock out of box. No gps yet but I would est. speeds of 40-45mph. I am running on 2S2P 4350mAh Polyquest lipo's.. And for max. run time I use 4S2P 3700mAh Polyquest lipo's!!

1. Fullers Cat Hardware w/ .150 f/cable and 3/16 to 1/8 prop shaft
2. Remove spin fins and drain plug, (filled holes)
3. Moved Ant. mount to the rear
4. Removed radio box, but reused the wood servo tray (put tray in place of radio box, had to make new linkage for rudder)
5. ESC was moved to center in front of the motor, power wires shortened (mounted w/velcro)
6. Receiver moved and coated with (3M DP270 epoxy)
7. Hatch (filled in hole where ant. came through)
8. Use OSE tape for the hatch to keep water out
9. Prather 220 prop (balanced & polished)

All these mod's helped with turning, stability, smoother driveline, and helps keep the water out!:thumbup: I had fun testing this boat in stock form, it did well. Now it just performs GREAT, and after 5 min of running hard, esc and motor temps were below 90 deg. and 100 deg. on the batteries!! I will keep it around for a while!!!! :smile:

If anyones interested I can order same hardware and struts?

[Mich. Maniac]

Steve, if you catch this post I would be interested in a set of the inline hardware. I really havent looked at Mr. Fullers prices simply cause I have never done business with him. If the info is handy shoot me a price to my PM box. Thanks sir.

[Boats4fun89]

hey all i want to use the same hardware setup as obrien is using but im confused on which rudder and bracket to buy. is it the speedmaster 21 hydro or mono? or the speedmaster mini hydro or mono? and also which strut and bracket from ray fuller. there are a few and i cant figure out which one. thanks for the help

[treystoys]

The rudder is the speedmaster mini with a 2" bracket, and the strut is the fullers super strut with the 2" set back bracket.

[obrien]

The rudder is the mono version since it is set back more.

[Boats4fun89]

i ordered the strut and bracket from fuller but i do have another question how is the handling with that setup? i know yours does around 50 mph but at lower speeds since i will be using stock electrics. i just want it to be able to turn still at speed thanks

[obrien]

well even after I installed this new hardware, I decided to reinstall my turnfins but with 1" cut off.

to be honest, alot of your turning ability will change with the center of gravity placement.

[Boats4fun89]

how would i go about sharpenig and balancing a prop. and also how to de tounge a prop. i hae never done it before and would like to try. if someone could explain to me how this is done???

[obrien]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=573&highlight=prop+tongue

this will show you the tongue on a prop. As far as removing mine, I just used a grinder to knock it off, then some 500 grit sand paper to finish it off, and balance it

You will need a prop balancer first. I also suggest you buy some playdoe so you can make sure each blade is the same shape. Once you have the blades the same shape, you can then balance the blades. You just grind on the front side of the prop (the side that doesn't have the cup). The best bet is to do it by hand so that you don't take off too much material.

[fastbaltek]

i was emailing the twisted liquid racing guy and he sent me pics of their new bj26 hardware. its not on their site yet so you might have to mention that i mentioned it to you guys, my ebay ID is blazinstyle (corny i know) my email of course is fastbaltek@yahoo.com.
http://www.twistedliquidracing.com/uploads/DSC08938.JPG

[RTaylor]

What flex cable are you using? Is it from OSE or another supplier. I would like to get mine changed out so it's ready when the ice melts.

[txboatpilot]

I used .150 to 3/16 f/cable from OSE....

[RTaylor]

Thanks, I'll get one ordered. If that will not work with the standard BJ BL set up let me know. I have ordered 3/16" props.

[RTaylor]

Forgot to ask about the assembled or unassembled, did you buy yours assembled or did you solder or glue it?

[RTaylor]

Though I had better explain myself a little bit better. What I am wanting to do is to replace the u Joint and cable with a flex cable using the std hardware but upgrading the prop to an x642. I went back and read some of the posts and realized you used this cable with the fuller upgrade and I wasn't sure it would work without upgrading to the fuller system. Is this still the cable I need to accomplish this, or do you have to upgrade to fullers first?

[txboatpilot]

Look at this thread!!! Steven did it, he is the owner of OSE!


http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=328

[txboatpilot]

Buy it assembled, they hold up very well!!