How to paint a boat

[dddmx3]

I friend asked to me to put this up for him because he doesn't have an account here yet.

RC Fiberglass boat painting tutorial

Intro
I
Do you have a remote controlled boat that you would like to paint? Well, you found the perfect tutorial. In this article I will show you step-by-step tutorial on how I paint my R/C boats. I am not a professional painter, just a hobbyist.

Process
II
First, you need to know the procedure. It's actually pretty simple process, the hard part is perfecting it... Think of it as a formula. The formula is SP3. Simple right? Now we need to know what is really stands for... Here it is:

Sand, Primer, Sand, Paint, Sand, Protect

Now that you know the formula you can change it around to fit your needs, Like I did:

Sand, Primer, Sand, Paint, Sand, Decals, Sparkles, Clear Coat

The clear coat acts as protection that's why in the first original formula I wrote "Protect"

Supplies
III
Second, you will need supplies... I will list out the supplies I use, but this does not mean you necessarily have to use what I use.
Here's my list:
Primer (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Premium-Sandable-Primer---White-%2812-oz-%29-Duplicolor_7140819-P_N3275_T|GRP2050____)
Paint (red) (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_99985046-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Google-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=99985046)
Sparkle Effex (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Effex&153;-Duplicolor_7141501-P_N3276_T|GRP2050____)
Lacquer (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Premium-Lacquer-Duplicolor_7140479-P_N3270_T|GRP2050____)
Sand Paper (200, 400, 800, 1000 grits) (http://www.google.com/#q=sandpaper&hl=en&sa=X&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbs=shop:1&tbo=u&ei=Cu4fTcntJoe4sAOshOmDDw&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CGUQrQQwAg&biw=1680&bih=857&fp=9bef8cda26d1a6ec)

Procedure
IV
Now that we've got the basics down it's time to get it going. Here's the procedure:
1. Sand your boat with 200 grit sand paper
2. Apply the primer (I use spray)
3. Sand the primer with 400 grit sand paper
4. Apply about five light coats of paint and the sixth should be the final heavier coat of paint
5. Sand with 800 grit sand paper
Note: Steps 6-7 are optional
6. Apply on your vinyl decals
7. Apply on your Sparkle Effex
8. Use about 2 cans of clear coat (lacquer) on your hull for protection

Your Done!

[JohnZ]

How about an example of your work?
Very well written. I' ve seen and have committed some pretty bad paint mistakes in the past.
My last effort was BBY O.M. 26 painted with Krylon Fusion yellow. Did exactly as you. A little scuffing on ABS with 400 or 600 wet/dry helps too. I leveled the paint and used Fusion clear over top. Leveled and polished with auto clear coat polish and WOW! I didn't think it would come out this well.
Just goes to show what a little time and effort can accomplish.

[dddmx3]

View my albums, I used my own painting guide for my own boats! :roflol: :buttrock:

[Jlitz]

Just wondering can you use createx waterbase paint and clear over it ?
This is for FG hull that will be electric. Thanks

[Jeff Wohlt]

Sure you can...you almost have to to get a nice gloss.

I use a gun...so much better finish to begin with.

[dddmx3]

You know, I think you'll be fine as long as you put enough clear coats on...

But I'm not sure!

[egneg]

Createx was made for textiles ... Autoair, Faskolor, or Wicked Colors would be a better choice.

Just my .02

Edit: Water based paints need to be heat set with a hair dryer or heat gun (careful with the heat gun).

[dddmx3]

Thanks for answering the question!

[sailr]

If the clearcoat over the water based paint gets chipped, then the water base will probably start coming off. I wouldn't recommend using it.

[dana]

screw primer i dont use it on boats unless its really rough. i spray waterbourne ppg paint and urethane clear. waterbase paint uses air to dry, NOT heat. simple air flow will dry it whether or not you use heat, a common misconception. most people prime everything.... when in fact some primers dont adhere well to certain substances, and actually become a weak point for the paint to fail. jmo but i paint 3 to 4 cars a day for the last 5 years.... ive screwed up more paint than all of you lol, and pushed the limits of what certain paints will do, what works and what doesnt. i find that if the finish on the boat is smooth.. no matter what it is, its best to just sand and go straight to paint. the more products you slap on there the more things to go wrong. K.I.S.S. keep it simple stupid!

[sailr]

Hmmm, I always thought primer gave the paint a better sub base for the finish coat to adhere to? No?

[dana]

Hmmm, I always thought primer gave the paint a better sub base for the finish coat to adhere to? No?

not really. especially those spraycan primers... they're garbage, and dont always stick well to everything. primer is over-rated

[Jlitz]

Thanks for all of your imput, I will take all of this info and put it to good use. thanks again.

[JohnZ]

I used Krylon Fusion directly over the ABS hull of my BBY O.S. 26 without any problems. sanded it down with 400 and 600 wet/dry and then clear coated it. After the clear coat dried I wet sanded it and then used auto clear coat polish. Came out better than I expected.

[bwells]

I vote for Krylon Fusion as well. Quick and easy as long as you're not looking for a showroom finish. They have a decent color selection.

[JohnZ]

I vote for Krylon Fusion as well. Quick and easy as long as you're not looking for a showroom finish. They have a decent color selection.
I agree, but you will get a pleasing finish if a little time and effort is spent. I treated it as if I were using a more expensive paint. The results can be as good or as bad depending as to how much effort is put into the job. After all, using high quality paint does not guarantee perfect results either.

[RandyatBBY]

screw primer i dont use it on boats unless its really rough. i spray waterbourne ppg paint and urethane clear. waterbase paint uses air to dry, NOT heat. simple air flow will dry it whether or not you use heat, a common misconception. most people prime everything.... when in fact some primers dont adhere well to certain substances, and actually become a weak point for the paint to fail. jmo but i paint 3 to 4 cars a day for the last 5 years.... ive screwed up more paint than all of you lol, and pushed the limits of what certain paints will do, what works and what doesnt. i find that if the finish on the boat is smooth.. no matter what it is, its best to just sand and go straight to paint. the more products you slap on there the more things to go wrong. K.I.S.S. keep it simple stupid!

I have to agree with you some times. It all depends on the brand of the paint. I have been painting since 1964 my first paint Job at 16 years old was a D9 tractor. Paints have changed over the years. With Dupont and HOC paints primer is not needed, with Dupla Color Paint Shop I would not do it with out. I rarely use rattle can paint so I am no expert with it and try to refer to others on that. I do paint about 1 or 2 boats a month.

[JohnZ]

I have to agree with you some times. It all depends on the brand of the paint. I have been painting since 1964 my first paint Job at 16 years old was a D9 tractor. Paints have changed over the years. With Dupont and HOC paints primer is not needed, with Dupla Color Paint Shop I would not do it with out. I rarely use rattle can paint so I am no expert with it and try to refer to others on that. I do paint about 1 or 2 boats a month.
How about an Oval master painted in John Deere green and yellow?:ohmy:
I remember some of those old tractors that have gone by the wayside. I used to watch a farm show on Dish Network and every once in a while they would feature and antique tractor show. Talk about some real beasts!

[hazegry]

I thought Dana was full of it but I went to buy some automotive paint from sherwin williams and talked to the guy he said nope not unless I am covering a glazing putty or bondo type filler. I am going to give it a go and see what happens.

[DISAR]

I agree on that. Something else to add, when finish sanding I wash the boat well let dry-clean with aceton or alcohol then paint .When washing-cleaning the boat I do not touch the surface with bare fingers.
Also the surface must have a uniform color before spraying the final color.

[JohnZ]

Absolutely. Any contaminate can only cause grief . I have had problems in the past with fisheyes appearing after applying the paint. That is a real PITA to get rid of. A lot easier to prevent them by solvent cleaning than having to sand the area to get rid of the fisheye. I mostly use denatured alcohol. I know some people like to use rubbing alcohol but that stuff contains water and other additives.
The reason I use alky is because I was painting an ABS boat hull. Acetone and plastic do not get along with each other very well.

[Eodman]

I read somewhere, I think it was in the now defunct RCMB magazine - that when working with rattle cans if you heat the cans the pressure in the can is raised and you get a finer spray!

Now don't go and get a blow torch -- hair dryer, hot water, hot radiator the can shouldn't be to hot to handle!

I have done this & it seems to work - the paint is sprayed out faster for sure! Put then I am an old fart with glasses and hearing aids!

[JohnZ]

I do this too. It also helps the paint to flow out better for a smoother finish. Dries a little faster too.

[Old Sloppy]

do not touch the surface with bare fingers.
before spraying the final color.


This has messed me up a few times...:crying:
Easier said than done....

Harry

[dana]

Put gloves on

[dirty]

put gloves on,get a tack cloth,or some wax remover or degreaser from a paint store. Like stated above,primer is for covering body work and bare metals(etching primer).Just get some red or gray scotchbright to scuff the surface,and you should be good.You could wet sand in between paint and clear if you want,or just nib sand after the clear.

[Brushless55]

I read somewhere, I think it was in the now defunct RCMB magazine - that when working with rattle cans if you heat the cans the pressure in the can is raised and you get a finer spray!

Now don't go and get a blow torch -- hair dryer, hot water, hot radiator the can shouldn't be to hot to handle!

I have done this & it seems to work - the paint is sprayed out faster for sure! Put then I am an old fart with glasses and hearing aids!

great tip that I use all the time :smile:

[martno1fan]

Actually when painting a gelcoated hull theres no need to use any primer,just sand the gelcoat with a very fine grade paper.Gelcoat is actually better than any primer so if the hull is sound and has a good surface finish simply scuff lightly just enough to dull the surface and paint.
Mart

[Brushless55]

Actually when painting a gelcoated hull theres no need to use any primer,just sand the gelcoat with a very fine grade paper.Gelcoat is actually better than any primer so if the hull is sound and has a good surface finish simply scuff lightly just enough to dull the surface and paint.
Mart

Mart, that's good stuff to know! :thumbup1:

[SweetAccord]

I read somewhere, I think it was in the now defunct RCMB magazine - that when working with rattle cans if you heat the cans the pressure in the can is raised and you get a finer spray!

Now don't go and get a blow torch -- hair dryer, hot water, hot radiator the can shouldn't be to hot to handle!

I have done this & it seems to work - the paint is sprayed out faster for sure! Put then I am an old fart with glasses and hearing aids!

This is true. We car guys do this trick to pint our clear bodies. :laugh:

Thank you all for your tips. You have got me through painting my first "free" hull. So far so good. Next is the clear coat.

[SweetAccord]

Ok I have a question that just may be stupid. I'm done will all the painting. Now it's to the sanding the final coat before applying the clear. My stupid question is do you really need to sand it down to a perfect smooth finish or can it be slightly rough?

[Brushless55]

Ok I have a question that just may be stupid. I'm done will all the painting. Now it's to the sanding the final coat before applying the clear. My stupid question is do you really need to sand it down to a perfect smooth finish or can it be slightly rough?

not a stupid question bro...
the better the prep work is the better your final results will be :thumbup1:
bad prep will usually show through the final paint job

[SweetAccord]

not a stupid question bro...
the better the prep work is the better your final results will be :thumbup1:
bad prep will usually show through the final paint job

Thank you. I just was hoping for less work and a slight ruffness would hide behind the clear, guess not. Darn.

Thank you.

[dana]

Thank you. I just was hoping for less work and a slight ruffness would hide behind the clear, guess not. Darn.

Thank you.

you can sand the color if you want, i usually opt for just burying 3 coats of clear a day for maybe 9 coats then sand clear smooth and buff. you'll end up taking like 4 or 5 coats of clear off when you sand. spray cans are very thinned. and if metallics are being used sanding the color coats will look like rubbish when you clear

[Brushless55]

I do sand my clear coats with 1000*
I lay two coats and dry for a day, then sand it good and follow with two more coats, and it comes out smooth:beerchug:

[SweetAccord]

Wow thanks guys. I'm using Krylon white color and Krylon flat clear. Clear is not on yet as I'm still getting the hull perfect by sanding. The hatch is done but the hull just has a lot of nooks and crannies. I'm not in a hurry just want it to come out nice. I appreciate the advice.

[sailr]

I use 1500, wet, on the clear coats and then shoot again. If not happy, I sand again and then use rubbing compound and polish.


I do sand my clear coats with 1000*
I lay two coats and dry for a day, then sand it good and follow with two more coats, and it comes out smooth:beerchug:

[SweetAccord]

I use 1500, wet, on the clear coats and then shoot again. If not happy, I sand again and then use rubbing compound and polish.


Wonderful! I'm getting nervous about doing the clear. I may have to make a paint booth to get it to come out nice. Thanks for the input.

[Brushless55]

Wonderful! I'm getting nervous about doing the clear. I may have to make a paint booth to get it to come out nice. Thanks for the input.

Yeah, dust can jack up the paint:huh:

[TheShaughnessy]

i have a white base coat sprayed right now but i need to do a little bit of sanding and fill a couple little holes i couldn't see until i sprayed some white on there. How long are you guys waiting after a coat to do some sanding with the 400? 90% happy just have a couple spots to clean up but, sanding paint and having it get all gummy on ya is a turd.

[Brushless55]

I use wet sanding paper and wait about an hour or two

[buck_jackson75]

Hi guys,
Can one use enamel paint and enamel clear on a fiberglass boat? I happen to have it already....

[ray schrauwen]

I use 1500, wet, on the clear coats and then shoot again. If not happy, I sand again and then use rubbing compound and polish.

What kind of rubbing compound?

I have some Mequires cleaner polish, can that be used? I had clear coated my PTSS in too humid weather and the coating went all cloudy white, crap.

I wet sanded lightly with wet 800 then more with wet 1500. I tried a little test spot with said above wax and, by hand it buffed up o.k.

What is proper method to buff up a wet sanded clear coat? can it be done by hand effectively??

Just trying to fix a near botched paint job.

Lastly, the small spot I test buffed, if I wet sand it again can I clear over it o.k. with no ill effects from the wax??

Thanks Sailr

[ray schrauwen]

What brand of enamel paint? Typically enamels are not very tough paints that I know of...


Hi guys,
Can one use enamel paint and enamel clear on a fiberglass boat? I happen to have it already....

[Heaving Earth]

Ray, it's much easier to just sand and recoat, then to sand and buff.

[Basstronics]

I mostly use denatured alcohol. I know some people like to use rubbing alcohol but that stuff contains water and other additives.
The reason I use alky is because I was painting an ABS boat hull. Acetone and plastic do not get along with each other very well.

Wonderful. So I pick up some of this. My goal was to fix the area where paint wouldnt stick. Did some wet sanding. Dried the area. Went to use this and presto. Lifted all the lacquer paint I had down...

Terrific!

Now I gotta fully repaint a sponson...

[dana]

yeah, stay away from anything but water and soap once youve already got paint on there. alcohol is a good cleaner beofre you put paint on, but not good when you have paint on already.

[Basstronics]

Painting is not my strong suit.

:(

I sanded it down and used some degreaser-dewaxer stuff I had from painting a fender on a beater car. I had JUST enough paint to get the small sponson done.

Hopefully it turns out.

[Basstronics]

OK I put on two of the small cans of Testors "wet look clear"

I then wet sanded it with 1000 grit. I decided to hit the sponsons and front with rubbing compound to see how good I did or didnt do. I can see easily where I didnt sand things smooth.

So Im going to have to sand more. However Im scared of breaking through the clear. So as long as I clean it with dawn dishsoap and hot water, dry it fully- I can re-clear it? Or am I screwed at this point? I got $30 into paint already...

[dana]

You should be fine to reclear. Rattle cans are mostly solvents and contain little solids, so you may need from 15 to 20 coats to get a desired 2mm of film build

[Basstronics]

Dang, Im going to try getting away with less. With two more cans I should get 10-11 coats on it, maybe 12 in total. Its looking good but I can see every defect I didnt get in the epoxy stage. Next time I know better.

[dana]

Well it also depends on how you apply it. Try putting it on wet... You may be able to fill some of the orange peel

[Basstronics]

Say what? I understand what orange peel is and I think its always going to happen with spray cans. The little bit of light sanding I did took out 95% of it it.

The last time I painted I did 3 coats with 20 minutes between. Paint says it can be recoated after 20 minutes.

[dana]

Just follow the introductions on the can, and don't do more than 3 coats per day. I imagine your finish may look a bit like the texture on a basketball.... That's what orange peel means. Prolly not as rough as basketball but you get the idea

[Basstronics]

Yup. Lots of little spots. Where I sanded smooth is real nice. Then i hit it with 3M rubbing compound.

[Raptorcize]

What is the best way to remove paint from a fiberglass hull without disturbing the gelcoat?

[dana]

What is the best way to remove paint from a fiberglass hull without disturbing the gelcoat?
Depends what the paint is and what your definition of "disturbing"is

[Raptorcize]

Enamel paint and I would not want to sand through the gelcoat

[dana]

Try some thinner. Gel coat is pretty tough

[Raptorcize]

Thanks!

[JohnZ]

I used a special paint remover found at a hobby shop that specializes in model trains. It safely removed the paint without disturbing an ABS hull so depending on what kind of paint you used it may or may not work. I can't remember the name of the paint remover, but any hobby shop that sells or specializes in trains should have it.
good luck.

[Old Sloppy]

is it called "DOT 4" brake fluid ?

that is what you use on a lexan car body to remove the paint you use on the inside with out any damage to the lexan.

Harry

[dana]

He's removing paint on top of gel coat guys.

[Basstronics]

Ive used Citri Strip and I love that stuff. I keep it on hand to take care of my painting mishaps... lol

[JohnZ]

No. It had a label on the front specifically for trains and the paints used.
But, it could be very similar.
However the plastic used for model trains is not lexan so DOT 4 brake fluid might damage the plastic.
Don't remember too much about it as it was years ago when I used it on a MRP Fountain.

[SweetAccord]

So I'm ready to apply the clear coat but I've run into a problem. All my clear paint cans got mixed up and I'm not sure which to use. The hull was painted with Krylon Indoor/Outdoor flat white. I have 4 clear coat cans;

1. Rust-Oleum Automotive Enamel
2. Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel
3. Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear Indoor/Outdoor Protective, Non Yellowing clear finish
4. Krylon Fusion for plastic (metal-wood) clear UV protection for Indoor/Outdoor. <Don't think it's this one.


Which is the right one to use again?

[Basstronics]

I tried #3 and it sucked! Actually the whole Krylon experience for me was horrible and it will never happen again. Boat looked like hell and weighed like 20 lbs for a 15" hydro...

[SweetAccord]

I tried #3 and it sucked! Actually the whole Krylon experience for me was horrible and it will never happen again. Boat looked like hell and weighed like 20 lbs for a 15" hydro...

So what do you use for a clear coat?

[BLboat]

On my boat there is only a specific area where the paint is chipping. Can i just treat that small area instead of redoing a large portion of the boat?

[JohnZ]

Hmmm, definitely sounds like a paint mis- match. I have used Krylon Fusion for Plastic and the matching clear with great success. The indoor -outdoor paint and matching clear should have worked. Another thing I did was to let the paint dry for a week before prepping it for clear coating. Used 3 very light coats and two medium heavy, sanding with 400 grit between coats. I let that dry for a week before final level sanding and clear coat polish. Came out almost like an automotive paint job. I was very surprised at the outcome of finish using just Krylon.
Can you describe what happened and what it looks like?

[BLboat]

Hmmm, definitely sounds like a paint mis- match. I have used Krylon Fusion for Plastic and the matching clear with great success. The indoor -outdoor paint and matching clear should have worked. Another thing I did was to let the paint dry for a week before prepping it for clear coating. Used 3 very light coats and two medium heavy, sanding with 400 grit between coats. I let that dry for a week before final level sanding and clear coat polish. Came out almost like an automotive paint job. I was very surprised at the outcome of finish using just Krylon.
Can you describe what happened and what it looks like?

Well it is completely white where the paint has chipped and it peels up when i take tape off. ill try and post a picture.
SO do you think i could just repaint the one area though?

[BLboat]

85396

here it is

[JohnZ]

That looks to me like two different paint formulas and the base coat reacted. I guess at this point you can sand it back and repaint. Before applying the clear try it on a sample of the paint you used. Just paint a piece of plastic or wood or whatever you have handy and try clear coating over that. Remember to let the paint dry thoroughly before clear coating. I know some companies tell you that clear coating can be done after the minimum drying time but I've had the best results allowing the paint to dry for a day or two.
If you used the acrylic crystal clear, that may be the problem. It is a water based formula and may have caused the reaction. However to get a better idea of the problem you can call the people at Krylon and talk to them about it. I've called them in the past and they were very helpful.
Now Krylon makes several clear coats: one for their standard paint , another for the Fusion (for plastics) and another as you mention as an acrylic. IF you used the indoor- out door paint I would use the standard clear for that paint. That you used the flat white shouldn't have any bearing on the situation but you never know.
I know I'm being long winded but because of your situation at this point I would definitely call Krylon.
As I mentioned before I used the Fusion for my ABS hull BBY O.M. 26 along with the matching Fusion clear and had no problem.
Good luck.

[detox]

Nothing worse than your paint being peeled off while removing hatch tape. The hockey tape OSE sells is some strong hatch tape and will remove paint if your paint job is not done correctly. You can test bonding strength of paint on small area of hull before painting entire hull.

[BLboat]

That looks to me like two different paint formulas and the base coat reacted. I guess at this point you can sand it back and repaint. Before applying the clear try it on a sample of the paint you used. Just paint a piece of plastic or wood or whatever you have handy and try clear coating over that. Remember to let the paint dry thoroughly before clear coating. I know some companies tell you that clear coating can be done after the minimum drying time but I've had the best results allowing the paint to dry for a day or two.
If you used the acrylic crystal clear, that may be the problem. It is a water based formula and may have caused the reaction. However to get a better idea of the problem you can call the people at Krylon and talk to them about it. I've called them in the past and they were very helpful.
Now Krylon makes several clear coats: one for their standard paint , another for the Fusion (for plastics) and another as you mention as an acrylic. IF you used the indoor- out door paint I would use the standard clear for that paint. That you used the flat white shouldn't have any bearing on the situation but you never know.
I know I'm being long winded but because of your situation at this point I would definitely call Krylon.
As I mentioned before I used the Fusion for my ABS hull BBY O.M. 26 along with the matching Fusion clear and had no problem.
Good luck.

well i didnt do the paint job myself. The boat is a revolt 30 and thats the factory paint job. Now i have the issue of trying to match the factory paint and figuring out the best way to go about applying it. The only thing ive ever painted are RC car lexan bodies. Nothing like fibergalss.

[JohnZ]

well i didnt do the paint job myself. The boat is a revolt 30 and thats the factory paint job. Now i have the issue of trying to match the factory paint and figuring out the best way to go about applying it. The only thing ive ever painted are RC car lexan bodies. Nothing like fibergalss.
Matching the factory paint is not going to be easy unless you can contact the company behind the boat and find out what they used for paint and what color. There are so many paint companies out there and so many different formulas I wouldn't even hazard a guess what they used. My advice, if you can contact that company and find out what they used it would be to your advantage. Then knowing what type of paint they used, you might be able to find the matching color or at least get a recommendation from them as to repainting the hull. Generally a scuff of the original painted surface is enough to get the paint to stick. However if the paint formulas are radically different there may be a problem. IF you are unable to contact the company, then I might take it to a good auto paint shop and ask them if they might be able to identify the paint.
Other than that a complete removal of the original paint , reprime and repaint with matching formulas ie; automotive type paints such as Dupont, Dupli-color or Plasti-Cote. There are some epoxy based paints available such as Klass Kote which should work fine as well.
I would start over. I know it sounds like a lot of work but sometimes that's what needs to be done. I've had to do it myself a few times and it's no fun, but no big deal either.

[BLboat]

Matching the factory paint is not going to be easy unless you can contact the company behind the boat and find out what they used for paint and what color. There are so many paint companies out there and so many different formulas I wouldn't even hazard a guess what they used. My advice, if you can contact that company and find out what they used it would be to your advantage. Then knowing what type of paint they used, you might be able to find the matching color or at least get a recommendation from them as to repainting the hull. Generally a scuff of the original painted surface is enough to get the paint to stick. However if the paint formulas are radically different there may be a problem. IF you are unable to contact the company, then I might take it to a good auto paint shop and ask them if they might be able to identify the paint.
Other than that a complete removal of the original paint , reprime and repaint with matching formulas ie; automotive type paints such as Dupont, Dupli-color or Plasti-Cote. There are some epoxy based paints available such as Klass Kote which should work fine as well.
I would start over. I know it sounds like a lot of work but sometimes that's what needs to be done. I've had to do it myself a few times and it's no fun, but no big deal either.

Yeah i called Aquacraft and they were no help saying that they didnt know what paint there own factory uses. I then called sherwin williams marine department and they said that i had to have a fishing license in order to buy from them for whatever reason. So back to the drawing board. I dont have it in me to repaint my boat i like the paintjob too much and id be afraid to mess it up. I think im gonna go to my LHS and test a few paint colors on the inside of the hatch cover where it is unpainted fiberglass. Then once i have found a good match ill try and apply it and if that doesnt work out i guess i will have to try and repaint the entire hull whether i like it or not. Either way thanks for your help!

[Alfa Spirit]

Hello guys

I didn' t sand the gelcoat before placing the stickers but now I want to protect the boat and stickers. I thought to clean and degrease the hull with just SOAP and water to not destroy the stickers. With a clean surface and defalled is clear coat has a chance to hang? The varnish is the U - POL clear coat,

Thanks

[siberianhusky]

If you go to an auto paint supply place like NAPA etc, they have a scanner thing they run over the paint then a computer tells them the mix for as close a match as possible. They can even put it in a spray can for you. You'd have to find out what kinds they use and do a compatability test.
Got some blue touch up paint done for an '86 Ninja, the colour match was darn close.

[JohnZ]

Aquacraft, yeah well that explains it. The boat hull, is probably made in China and who knows what kind of paint they used??!! You may want to use a respirator if any further sanding is done. just in case
I would give the auto store a try.
Good luck.

[BLboat]

Thanks im gonna take it to the suggested paint shop and if that doesnt work i guess ill be doing some color matching myself

[Alfa Spirit]

Hello guys

I didn' t sand the gelcoat before placing the stickers but now I want to protect the boat and stickers. I thought to clean and degrease the hull with just SOAP and water to not destroy the stickers. With a clean surface and defalled is clear coat has a chance to hang? The varnish is the U - POL clear coat,

Thanks

There are two U-Pol clear primer products
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/120/grip%234%E2%84%A2-universal-adhesion-promoter.htm
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/127/s2003-plastic-primer-adhesion-promoter.htm

What do you think?

[dana]

There are two U-Pol clear primer products
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/120/grip%234%E2%84%A2-universal-adhesion-promoter.htm
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/127/s2003-plastic-primer-adhesion-promoter.htm

What do you think?
Nobody cares. That's why nobody repsonds. Take a dump on it

[catmangrrrrr]

I would forget the Krylon or any other rattle can.Talk to a local body shop and usually they have all kinds of pints or half pints left over from previous jobs. I started doing that when I found out they were throwing most of it away.You can get a small sprayer for next to nothing that almost any compressor will operate. Also by doing that the mixture codes are usually on the can so you can always match later if needed. May talk to them also about clear coats..many have told me to catch them when they are shooting clear and they would do it for lil of nothing,if anything, since clear was already mixed and being used. Plus those small amounts go a long way with an airbrush.

[JohnZ]

That's a good way to do it if you have a body shop nearby and know the people. Chances are they might have a color you like even if it isn't what you were considering.
Keep in mind you still have to go through the process of leveling the paint before clear coating. After all, it's process involved when they repaint your car after you've had a chance meeting with a 150 pound furry animal with antlers.
As I stated before I had very good luck with the Krylon Fusion on an ABS hull. It turned out better than expected and while it isn't a pro shop paint job, I'm happy with the results. Would I do it again...probably as I like to do the work myself.
Good luck .
Cheers.

[dana]

That's a good way to do it if you have a body shop nearby and know the people. Chances are they might have a color you like even if it isn't what you were considering.
Keep in mind you still have to go through the process of leveling the paint before clear coating. After all, it's process involved when they repaint your car after you've had a chance meeting with a 150 pound furry animal with antlers.
As I stated before I had very good luck with the Krylon Fusion on an ABS hull. It turned out better than expected and while it isn't a pro shop paint job, I'm happy with the results. Would I do it again...probably as I like to do the work myself.
Good luck .
Cheers.

Actually, collision shops do not level paint before clearcoat. The worst thing to do is to sand color coats, especially if it's metallic. When painting a car you get it level and clean first. Once you start painting it's best to avoid touching any of the coats. Usually first it's sealer, then color coats, then clear. Sealer is not always nessecary. The final leveling comes in the sanding of the clear, but usually it's a bad idea to do that because from the factory cars have orange peel, so sanding the final clear will make it too flat. Now if it's a show car or such, and the customer wants it flat like glass it's another story. But regardless sanding color is a no no

[catmangrrrrr]

That's a good way to do it if you have a body shop nearby and know the people. Chances are they might have a color you like even if it isn't what you were considering.
Keep in mind you still have to go through the process of leveling the paint before clear coating. After all, it's process involved when they repaint your car after you've had a chance meeting with a 150 pound furry animal with antlers.
As I stated before I had very good luck with the Krylon Fusion on an ABS hull. It turned out better than expected and while it isn't a pro shop paint job, I'm happy with the results. Would I do it again...probably as I like to do the work myself.
Good luck .
Cheers.All I'm saying is if you get the opportunity to check..it never hurts. I found that they toss out thousands of dollars worth of paint every year because most of the colors were a one time thing and they pile up faster than you think. It's just a good opportunity to get good quality paint and with myself wanting to learn airbrushing it gives me lots of practice paint saving me a lot of money. Also makes me a few bucks if someone want a car shell or boat shot with just a solid color. I've done Krylon before and had good results too.....but don't want to settle for just good. Good luck and have a blast boating!!

Here's a few pics of couple quick ones I did tryn to figure out an airbrush that you can't do with a rattle can(at least not very easily)..I am no artist by any means and will always look like a grade schooler's art class wishing I had the god given talent that Pro Painter has.

89766897678976889769

[JohnZ]

Actually, collision shops do not level paint before clearcoat. The worst thing to do is to sand color coats, especially if it's metallic. When painting a car you get it level and clean first. Once you start painting it's best to avoid touching any of the coats. Usually first it's sealer, then color coats, then clear. Sealer is not always nessecary. The final leveling comes in the sanding of the clear, but usually it's a bad idea to do that because from the factory cars have orange peel, so sanding the final clear will make it too flat. Now if it's a show car or such, and the customer wants it flat like glass it's another story. But regardless sanding color is a no no
I stand corrected. I have seen this done in the past but it maybe such the older paints needed it done. Obviously the new paint formulations produce a surface that needs no sanding.
Using the Krylon Fusion was easy but I felt leveling the paint would produce a finer finish. I also leveled the clear coat and finished up with clear coat polish
and buffing.
Hmmmm, next time I may check out the local body shops and see what I can find. There may be a few guys who wouldn't mind shooting a boat.
BTW I have tried rattle can auto paints such as Duplicolor with less than satisfactory results.
I have a JAE 21 in the box yet waiting its turn on the building board. When the time comes I'm going to consider going that route.
cheers.

[CodeRed225]

With krylon fusion how long should wait to wet sand?

[JohnZ]

Code, I waited a week before wet sanding. That way the paint had enough time to cure enough for sanding. Paints like these cure very quickly but I wanted to make sure as the humidity was typical Michigan summer variety. It worked out very well. The Fusion covered quite well but there was the usual "orange peel" finish which required wet sanding. Others may get different results. I also waited a week before wet sanding and polishing the clear coat. The results came out more than I hoped for.
cheers

[Tamelesstgr]

Has anyone tried to do a flat (no gloss) paintjob?

[rayzerdesigns]

yes..you need to find a flat clear..easiest way