SeaKing 180 ESC...extra cooling.

[ScarabChris]

I was running my 54 Fountain today and had one ESC shut down from overheat. Upon looking at this ESC I feel the cooling sucks on them. Just a tube that runs through. Then you have this huge opening, I know this is for air cooling.

But why not fill the cavity with water running through.

This is what I did and I will see how it works tomorrow.

I simply cut some small pieces of stainless steel, drilled and tapped for the hose nipple. Then roughed the back of the plate and the ends of the opening on the ESC and used JB Weld to fix the plates in place. It holds pressure very well and I have to imagine with water flowing through there it has to cool better.

The last picture shows the new water routing. In the bottom of the new closed in chamber, out the top then through the original useless ports.

Opinions???

[Brushless55]

Sweet Job!

[Make-a-Wake]

Thats pretty cool.............im wondering though if your ESC is getting hot and shutting down from running the 1p setup. Your batts may be overtaxed, thus taxing the ESC's and causing shutdown. 2p may fix this, especially now with the extra cooling. Your boat has plenty of room for 2p.

[Brushless55]

Thats pretty cool.............im wondering though if your ESC is getting hot and shutting down from running the 1p setup. Your batts may be overtaxed, thus taxing the ESC's and causing shutdown. 2p may fix this, especially now with the extra cooling. Your boat has plenty of room for 2p.

But it's only one esc not both getting hot?

[ScarabChris]

Thats pretty cool.............im wondering though if your ESC is getting hot and shutting down from running the 1p setup. Your batts may be overtaxed, thus taxing the ESC's and causing shutdown. 2p may fix this, especially now with the extra cooling. Your boat has plenty of room for 2p.

Yeah I was thinking this as well, but I just don't know enough about this LiPo thing. I posted these questions on my 54" Fountain build thread in boat building.

I'll try with 1P tomorrow first and see what happens, if it still gets hot then I'll go with the 2P setup and see.

I'm just wondering why only one was shutting down. Does the timing have something to do with it? I know for sure that one motor spools up slightly before the other.

Plus the motors and batteries were super cool.

What is considered an acceptable temp for these ESC? The one shutting down was at 151 degrees and the other was at like 125.

[Make-a-Wake]

The hotter ESC may be working harder........taking more of the load, as you have stated one spools up quicker. They are two completely different systems and will not work exactly the same.

[Brushless55]

Yeah I was thinking this as well, but I just don't know enough about this LiPo thing. I posted these questions on my 54" Fountain build thread in boat building.

I'll try with 1P tomorrow first and see what happens, if it still gets hot then I'll go with the 2P setup and see.

I'm just wondering why only one was shutting down. Does the timing have something to do with it? I know for sure that one motor spools up slightly before the other.

Plus the motors and batteries were super cool.

What is considered an acceptable temp for these ESC? The one shutting down was at 151 degrees and the other was at like 125.

If your batteries are cool, your 1p setup is fine..
but it does sound like your escs are not running the same timing?

[ScarabChris]

If your batteries are cool, your 1p setup is fine..
but it does sound like your escs are not running the same timing?

I don't know what the timing is set at on the ESCs. This is an area that I just don't understand.

If the timing is set different between the ESC's will this cause one to do more work?

[lectriglide]

Did you pull the original nipples off and check the holes in them? Many need to be cleaned up and/or reamed. Could be that it was not getting good water flow.

[Brushless55]

I don't know what the timing is set at on the ESCs. This is an area that I just don't understand.

If the timing is set different between the ESC's will this cause one to do more work?

yes

[ScarabChris]

Did you pull the original nipples off and check the holes in them? Many need to be cleaned up and/or reamed. Could be that it was not getting good water flow.

ESC's are brand new, boat has been in the water twice and water blows out the ESC discharge pretty hard.


yes

Can someone give me a brief explanation of what the timing is for? The ESC directions don't say much.

[JMSCARD]

ESC's are brand new, boat has been in the water twice and water blows out the ESC discharge pretty hard.



Can someone give me a brief explanation of what the timing is for? The ESC directions don't say much.

there is alot of info on here as far as timing goes... do a quick search, but the leopards you have are a Y wind motor I believe, and again I believe if I am correct they like high timing...... those turnigy/seaking 180's are easy to program, follow instructions and reprogram to high timing on each before you go to crazy.... I would bet this is your problem........

[ScarabChris]

In looking at the Leopard website it looks like the 5692 1340 Kv is a "D" wind motor. Did a search here and I have seen the recommendation that these D wind motors should have 0 to 5 degrees timing?

Any thoughts?

[JMSCARD]

In looking at the Leopard website it looks like the 5692 1340 Kv is a "D" wind motor. Did a search here and I have seen the recommendation that these D wind motors should have 0 to 5 degrees timing?

Any thoughts?

Shows I don't own any 5692's.... Lol, chris then definately set both esc's to low timing.... Very easy to do on turnigy 180's...

[egneg]

I believe the default timing is 15* and could be the cause of your problems.

[ScarabChris]

Yeah I set them both to 3.75, the lowest before zero.

[forescott]

I would get rid of those under hull water pick-ups. They can't work any better than mine.

[ScarabChris]

Believe it or not I get tons of water shooting out the hull discharges. Might just depend on the hull and where you have them mounted.

And the "custom cooling" on these T180s works awsome.

The temps went from 125 one one and 151 on the other down to 100 and 120. Major improvement!

[Brushless55]

Believe it or not I get tons of water shooting out the hull discharges. Might just depend on the hull and where you have them mounted.

And the "custom cooling" on these T180s works awsome.

The temps went from 125 one one and 151 on the other down to 100 and 120. Major improvement!

great job!
still interesting that one is 20* higher?
maybe it a prop issue... :confused2:

[carlcisneros]

so I take it right down the center of the 180ESC it is completely hollow?

hhhhmmmmmmmm

[ScarabChris]

great job!
still interesting that one is 20* higher?
maybe it a prop issue... :confused2:

Yes one is still working harder. I made sure the timing was set the same on boat at 3.7. Its the same props so I'm not sure why one is working harder. One motor does start spinning slightly before the other. But the one that was overheating starts after which would lead me to believe the other one is working harder.


so I take it right down the center of the 180ESC it is completely hollow?

hhhhmmmmmmmm

yes, its completely hollow down the middle. Wasted space. The cooling works great. Knocked temps down by 25-30 degrees.

[blackcat26]

Chris did you program the esc's with the Tx or do you have a program card?

[ScarabChris]

With the TX. I put the timing at 3.7 and the LVC at 3.0 on both. But I think I'm going to raise the LVC to 3.7 volts per cell.

[blackcat26]

Timing should be fine with 5deg being max on a "d" wind motor. Is there any way u used a different Tx to program one of them? I think I did this before and maybe it was the different throttle calibration between two Tx's.

[ScarabChris]

Nope, both programmed with the same TX within 30 seconds of eachother.

[Fluid]

A common issue with twins is how the two motors work in turns. The inside motor has to work harder than the outside motor, and the tighter the turns the more the inside motors has to work. This is likely why one ESC is hotter by 20*.



.

[drwayne]

is it the same ESC that gets warmer..? or the location it's installed ( L/R) ?
Have you tried swapping L-R ?

[Brushless55]

is it the same ESC that gets warmer..? or the location it's installed ( L/R) ?
Have you tried swapping L-R ?

That is a great idea! :bowdown:

[ScarabChris]

A common issue with twins is how the two motors work in turns. The inside motor has to work harder than the outside motor, and the tighter the turns the more the inside motors has to work. This is likely why one ESC is hotter by 20*.



.

I would normally agree with you, it makes perfect sense because it is the inside motor if I were on a circle clockwise course. But I wasn't running circles. I was running in a narrow canal and basically just making high speed passes in a straight line. I was shutting down to idle speed when urning around.

Ironically the same motor with the hot ESC is the same one I lost the prop and shaft on. Unrelated I'm sure.

I'm replacing the stupid solder in stub shafts and flex with the one piece Hughey shafts. I'm a little pissed I lost a shaft and 70 dollar prop just as I was getting her dialed in.


is it the same ESC that gets warmer..? or the location it's installed ( L/R) ?
Have you tried swapping L-R ?

I have not switched them yet. I was testing the temps and top speed then I lost a shaft and prop so I really didn't have time to dive into the ESC issue further than the extra cooling. Which I'm very impressed with the result. 30 degrees cooler, thats freakin great!

I think I'll pat myself on the back....LOL :rockon2:

[Brushless55]

possible bind on the hotter side?

[ScarabChris]

I don't think there is a bind, I can spin both prop shafts very easy between two fingers when not connected to the motors.

[drwayne]

Dont be frightened to swap the escs over and see what warms up ..
if the same side still overheats..then swap the motors..

same side still warmer .. logically next thing to check would be prop differences
drive trains if free rarely offer a notable variance in temps

spinning between fingers is indicative, but not deterministic

Whilst reading this thread I noted you said motors do not synchronously spool up from standstill .. do you have a Y mixer widget to aid steer by altering prop speeds?
If your rudder is offset on trim to centralize the rudder.. voila'

W

[carlcisneros]

I agree with Wayne on the props. There are no 2 props molded out the same even though they are the same series.

Another thing I caught was that the one motor lost its' prop and shaft assembly. This could have caused an over rev so to speak of the one motor and possibly doing a bit of internal damage to that particular motor causing the one ESC and motor to run hotter than the other one.
JMO of course,,,,,,,,,,,,

[ScarabChris]

I'm not afraid to swap the ESCs. I just haven't gotten around to it because the boat has been out of commission due to losing the prop.

However after doing this cooling mod I am satisfied with the temps. So one is running hotter, as long as its not damaging then it doesn't bother me.

The ESC was heating up before the loss of the prop, it has not been run since.

I'm not using a mixer. Both ESCs are controlled by the RX which has 2 throttle ports.