Project FighterSplat- 24.5" Stepped Mono

[FighterCat57]

TFL Hobbies 24.5" Stepped Mono (Ariane, NightHawk) hull.

I'm calling it the "FighterSplat".
Rather than sell it, I'm going to build it. Then decide if I want to build/sell more.

70mm Stinger
95mm Break Away Rudder w/Water Pickup
2 Bolt Water Cooled Motor Mount

3126 1500w Outrunner

Maybe .062 wire drive or .150 cable.


I've got an Eagle Tree now w/GPS, so this should be a good setup tester.

What I don't know about is turn fins. How big? What shape? Why?

[carlcisneros]

Ben;
Try it without the turn fins first and see how it goes.

Carl

[LarrysDrifter]

My friend and I run our monos without turn fins.They seem to make them turn too sharp on top of an already good turning hull.

[FighterCat57]

Cool. Figure if the rudder is big enough for a 32" hull, it should turn this little guy on a dime.

[Make-a-Wake]

Nice!..............3s..........4s?

[FighterCat57]

Nice!..............3s..........4s?

4s 2200kv :beerchug:

[LarrysDrifter]

That thing will fly with that combo!

[blackcat26]

Still can't believe nobody bought this in the swap shop! Such a good deal bro! (was)

[FighterCat57]

Still can't believe nobody bought this in the swap shop! Such a good deal bro! (was)

Guess it has to be "proven" first. :sinking-guy:

some updates coming tonight. Paint is drying. :cool2:

[Rumdog]

looks like it could be set up as an eco too.

[FighterCat57]

Fixed the wrinkles and the warped hatch. Nothing like a little heat, pressure and time.

Blinged out the motor mount while I at it. :biggrin:

[FighterCat57]

Added some hardware... using the new vinyl drill template decals... NICE. =)

[NativePaul]

Darn thought I did a post on this already, but my damed interweb is all over the place and must have gone down as I was sending it.

I have not run one of these but I have seen one in the flesh and its bottom looks VERY much like the ETTI Chaser, not identical/splashed but either the same designer or someone was peeking over his shoulder when he drew it, out of interest do you know whether the same factory is making both?

It is a mono1 hull which are normally run with 2s 5-6000mAh (sub 280g), 480 size motor 4200-4900KV, .130 flex, 33-37mm prop.

I see you are using 4s 2200kv I would use cells well under the 5000mAh, around 3Ah should keep the weight reasonable. no point in using a huge motor either if you decide to go 36mm rather than 28mm make sure its well under 200g you cant swing huge props on these boats, anything over 40mm will make it handle like crap, if you want more speed you pretty much have to do it with volts or KV.

It will need a turn fin. I guess Larry and his buddy are using unstepped monos, I've seen a few stepped monos without turn fins at races over the years, but none they all had one at the next race. Stepped monos are fast on small amounts of power and they get their speed from having little hull in the water, but you need something in the water for the rudder to work against or you just get yaw and no turning. The common Chinese 66-70mm teardrop shape as found in the OSE shop in either alloy or carbon is the most popular, mount it close to the bottom and start with it tilted back so there isn't much in the water below the chine, then angle it down until you are happy with the handling if you have to run it so deep that it drops bellow the keel then you need a new wider one, it should be out of the water down the straights.

I don't think its big enough for a 32" hull, but the 95mm rudder should be enough for this boat most Mono1s run either 95 or 100mm.

You could set it up as an ECO but it would be useless due to its narrowness, low deadrise up front and lack of steering strakes, also it would be illegal due to the step.

[FighterCat57]

Darn thought I did a post on this already, but my damed interweb is all over the place and must have gone down as I was sending it.

I have not run one of these but I have seen one in the flesh and its bottom looks VERY much like the ETTI Chaser, not identical/splashed but either the same designer or someone was peeking over his shoulder when he drew it, out of interest do you know whether the same factory is making both?

It is a mono1 hull which are normally run with 2s 5-6000mAh (sub 280g), 480 size motor 4200-4900KV, .130 flex, 33-37mm prop.

I see you are using 4s 2200kv I would use cells well under the 5000mAh, around 3Ah should keep the weight reasonable. no point in using a huge motor either if you decide to go 36mm rather than 28mm make sure its well under 200g you cant swing huge props on these boats, anything over 40mm will make it handle like crap, if you want more speed you pretty much have to do it with volts or KV.

It will need a turn fin. I guess Larry and his buddy are using unstepped monos, I've seen a few stepped monos without turn fins at races over the years, but none they all had one at the next race. Stepped monos are fast on small amounts of power and they get their speed from having little hull in the water, but you need something in the water for the rudder to work against or you just get yaw and no turning. The common Chinese 66-70mm teardrop shape as found in the OSE shop in either alloy or carbon is the most popular, mount it close to the bottom and start with it tilted back so there isn't much in the water below the chine, then angle it down until you are happy with the handling if you have to run it so deep that it drops bellow the keel then you need a new wider one, it should be out of the water down the straights.

I don't think its big enough for a 32" hull, but the 95mm rudder should be enough for this boat most Mono1s run either 95 or 100mm.

You could set it up as an ECO but it would be useless due to its narrowness, low deadrise up front and lack of steering strakes, also it would be illegal due to the step.

Hi Paul, Thanks for the setup information! :beerchug:
Refreshing to hear real world knowledge.

It quite possibly could be the same MFR or more likely a likeness by a newer startup factory.

It's setup with Motor & Batts = 390 grams (2650mah 30c & 3126 outrunner)

This is a second build, the first one does great on a K40 and was considering using a 932 or 935 for curiosity's sake. The problem with the first is I used a mini rudder and it doesn't turn well.

I have some turn fins that arrived today, before mounting I'll post up and see if I get them right. I don't have much experience setting up mono's, so any and all information is appreciated.

PS, I found the 25" Prince and it is way different; http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?p=259246&posted=1#post259246

[questtek]

Ben,

The pics below show a carbon fiber turn fin on the NightHawk. It should give you an idea of placement. This boat was supposed to be self righting but I flipped it more than a dozen times and IT HAS NEVER SELF RIGHTED............Not even close to it!

I think it has potential so I built a new type of motor mount that attaches to a base plate with four stainless nuts. This permits motor changes in a minute or so and does not require any type of fancy allan wrench maneuvers. I will try the Turnigy 1600KV, 1500 watt motors you recommended on 6 s to see what it will do.

Nice enough boat but really does not compare in my opinion to the DF sniper. Again, just my opinion after running both of these boats for over a month now.

[FighterCat57]

From my understanding it has to be weighted heavily on the side of the flood chamber. This will allow it to tilt just enough for the prop to get wet and help straighten itself in motion. I've yet to test successfully either.

Looking forward to your results with the new motor. =)

[questtek]

From my understanding it has to be weighted heavily on the side of the flood chamber. This will allow it to tilt just enough for the prop to get wet and help straighten itself in motion. I've yet to test successfully either.

Looking forward to your results with the new motor. =)

I do have all the weight on that side, 2500 mAhr 3s battery as tight as it can be next to the flood chamber and virtually nothing on the other side. I may have to glue some lead weight on the inside seam of the flood chamber. Problem is that air I believe is trapped inside the chamber so vent holes may be needed also.

[Chuck E Cheese]

yes for a flood chamber to work you will need vents in the chamber to let the air out. i always drill 1/2 inch holes (about 3-4) in the bow (bottom side since it is upside down) in the most forward position possable. i also make holes in the top deck to let water in from more than just the rear opening. a few oz of lead inside the chamber will only help it fill quicker making it right itself quicker. flood chambers are finiky and you need to play with them to get them to work well. most production chambers are not big enough. the one i make for the super-v doesnt care where the weight is due to the larger size

[FighterCat57]

yes for a flood chamber to work you will need vents in the chamber to let the air out. i always drill 1/2 inch holes (about 3-4) in the bow (bottom side since it is upside down) in the most forward position possable. i also make holes in the top deck to let water in from more than just the rear opening. a few oz of lead inside the chamber will only help it fill quicker making it right itself quicker. flood chambers are finiky and you need to play with them to get them to work well. most production chambers are not big enough. the one i make for the super-v doesnt care where the weight is due to the larger size

That makes perfect sense. Time to drill some holes! :huh:

[questtek]

Ran the boat today with a 2860 inrunner rated at 4122 KV on 3S. Yesterdays run was on a 2200mAhr pac and the voltage drop was way too much under the heavy amp draw for the 25c pacs I was using. Switched to 5000 mAhr LiPos at 40C and the diffrence was incredible. I will post a video tomorrow when we run with all the guys on my lake. If I have a chance I will also Eagle Tree it including GPS. Battery placement was unique. Two cells wedged next to the self righting (NOT) chamber and one cell under the drive shaft midships.

[CornelP]

Chuck is right. Even the best chamber will not work without a proper vent. One more way to do this is to run a piece of 6-10mm tube (I use a thin walled carbon) from the tip of the chamber to the opposite side of the boat. The other thing is not to rely only on the hole in the transom: a few more on the deck will make it turn faster.
And if it still does not work, just add weights... I have about 120g on the chamber wall on my 30" mono and it works perfectly.

[questtek]

Bem,
I am going to post this in the video section but thought you and the people following this thread might like a Heads-Up first. It will give you an idea of what the boat can do, GPS 40 MPH and there is lots more available. Wrong prop and running way too wet with a bad down angle on the stinger we missed correcting before the run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YUd8_4_e34&feature=youtube_gdata

[keithbradley]

Bem,
I am going to post this in the video section but thought you and the people following this thread might like a Heads-Up first. It will give you an idea of what the boat can do, GPS 40 MPH and there is lots more available. Wrong prop and running way too wet with a bad down angle on the stinger we missed correcting before the run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YUd8_4_e34&feature=youtube_gdata

Nice work:thumbup1:
40mph looks pretty wicked on that little hull. With the flood chamber dialed in this thing could be a blast to run all day without worrying about retreiving it! I like it!

[Brushless55]

very cool looking hull!

[Brushless55]

Ben,

The pics below show a carbon fiber turn fin on the NightHawk. It should give you an idea of placement. This boat was supposed to be self righting but I flipped it more than a dozen times and IT HAS NEVER SELF RIGHTED............Not even close to it!

I think it has potential so I built a new type of motor mount that attaches to a base plate with four stainless nuts. This permits motor changes in a minute or so and does not require any type of fancy allan wrench maneuvers. I will try the Turnigy 1600KV, 1500 watt motors you recommended on 6 s to see what it will do.

Nice enough boat but really does not compare in my opinion to the DF sniper. Again, just my opinion after running both of these boats for over a month now.

You like the DF23 better?

[martin]

This hull is the same as an Hor mono also known as Ariane mono 1, As with most of these self righting hulls you have to add a fair amount of weight either stuck inside flood chamber or on top of the deck as well as battery over against flood chamber wall. They will then right in a few seconds. 4122kv on 3s is way to high, Either your esc or motor or both wont last to long at 45754rpm.

[sailr]

You also have to cut out bigger holes in the deck to let it sink faster.

[martin]

I didnt mention extra holes cut because Chuck E Cheese had already pointed that out, So yes you def need to do this as well. Not just so it floods quicker but to let trapped air out of the chamber as well.

[questtek]

You like the DF23 better?

Yes, but the Nighthawk is starting to look pretty good. So far I get 45 MPH from the Sniper and 40 MPH from the Nighthawk. I need the pros like Mark F and Tony to go the extra few miles for me now on each one of them. Ordered new 45-90C batteries so should not have the voltage drops I experience on my old 25c cells.

Like most RTR's the Nighthawk took virtually a complete rebuild when you repower it. ALL the wood mounts ripped out almost immediately including the servo mount. If you notice in the pics I designed an easy to remove mount with 4 bolts so I can interchange with the Sniper.

Pics also include comparisons of the top and bottom of the hulls.

[questtek]

This hull is the same as an Hor mono also known as Ariane mono 1, As with most of these self righting hulls you have to add a fair amount of weight either stuck inside flood chamber or on top of the deck as well as battery over against flood chamber wall. They will then right in a few seconds. 4122kv on 3s is way to high, Either your esc or motor or both wont last to long at 45754rpm.



You are so right on the motor. Ironically I WANT to blow it up......or at least see just how far I can push it. You can see by the pictures I have a dual cooling system, jacket and front mount. The orange tape secures two temp sensors on the motor along with RPM and GPS into the EagleTree.

This is a cheap inrunner however my motivation in pushing it so hard is to test a special lubricant am using on the bearings. I attached a picture of the lubricant. You can read more about it at:
http://pro-one.us

I met the guys that run the company a few years ago. I started using it on my boat that has twin 400 HP turbocharged Cat diesels and noted a significant improvement in a performance. I am using this same product on the bearings of the motor after each run. So far, so good but I will continue testing and pushing the RPM even higher. These are probably 30k cheap bearings so it is doing great so far!

[martin]

I done the same on a small mono deep v that i intended replacing the stock motor & esc useing 2445 3000kv on 3s running x435 which is really to big a prop for this set up. It was fine on 30mm &32mm props but wanted to push for more speed & guess what. replaced the origanal water cooled motor & esc with a 3600kv outrunner motor & higher amp esc & getting around 45mph on a 15" mono hull. I also went from 25c-35c lipo to 45c-90c Nano Tech both 3s and the difference in speed in the same boat on the same day was very noticable. These small 300-400w outrunner motors have got unbelievable torque over the small inrunners. Even running higher kv it will take the same props & out accelarate by a long way the original inrunner motor as well as much higher top end all from a whopping $18 motor, Original motor was around $60. Martin.

[FighterCat57]

I done the same on a small mono deep v that i intended replacing the stock motor & esc useing 2445 3000kv on 3s running x435 which is really to big a prop for this set up. It was fine on 30mm &32mm props but wanted to push for more speed & guess what. replaced the origanal water cooled motor & esc with a 3600kv outrunner motor & higher amp esc & getting around 45mph on a 15" mono hull. I also went from 25c-35c lipo to 45c-90c Nano Tech both 3s and the difference in speed in the same boat on the same day was very noticable. These small 300-400w outrunner motors have got unbelievable torque over the small inrunners. Even running higher kv it will take the same props & out accelarate by a long way the original inrunner motor as well as much higher top end all from a whopping $18 motor, Original motor was around $60. Martin.

I've been finding the exact same. It seems that outrunner motors designed to swing an air propeller do well at swinging a boat propeller.

I'm also finding that higher voltage, lower amperage, lower KV setups perform better, longer with less heat.

All of the little red Turnigy outrunners from HK are made by Suppo Model. I buy them factory direct (not cheaper) to get the KV's that I want.



As for the cheap assembly from the chinese ARR boats, yeah, they need to immediately be disassembled and re-assembled correctly. The wood is unsealed and quickly molds/rots and the glue used is prone to failure. I've found that coating the interior with polyurethane or epoxy paint helps prevent ply separation and staining from greasy pond scum. This is the biggest reason I started FighterCat boats. The parts are of good quality, but the assembly and paint is lacking. So I provide them unassembled and unpainted. =)

[questtek]

I done the same on a small mono deep v that i intended replacing the stock motor & esc useing 2445 3000kv on 3s running x435 which is really to big a prop for this set up. It was fine on 30mm &32mm props but wanted to push for more speed & guess what. replaced the origanal water cooled motor & esc with a 3600kv outrunner motor & higher amp esc & getting around 45mph on a 15" mono hull. I also went from 25c-35c lipo to 45c-90c Nano Tech both 3s and the difference in speed in the same boat on the same day was very noticable. These small 300-400w outrunner motors have got unbelievable torque over the small inrunners. Even running higher kv it will take the same props & out accelarate by a long way the original inrunner motor as well as much higher top end all from a whopping $18 motor, Original motor was around $60. Martin.

Great minds must run alike............ Those are the exact same Nano Tech batteries I ordered. I found with the Eagle Tree I was pulling 70 plus amps and the LiPo voltage would drop too much. Glad you like these.

I tooks Bens recommendation and bought some small Turnigy 400 Watt outrunners. Nice motors but a bit small for a 23" mono so I went to the next size up....1500 Watts! They have been shipped with the batteries.

[martin]

A lot of these small outrunner motors that are in the 3000kv - 4000kv are helicopter motors which have very high torque along with high rpm. With small mono hulls you have to be carefull you dont go to low on kv & put higher voltage through because these mono hulls are very narrow by design & you simply end up spinning the boat around the prop with to much torque & to big a propeller. Martin.

[FighterCat57]

Great minds must run alike............ Those are the exact same Nano Tech batteries I ordered. I found with the Eagle Tree I was pulling 70 plus amps and the LiPo voltage would drop too much. Glad you like these.

I tooks Bens recommendation and bought some small Turnigy 400 Watt outrunners. Nice motors but a bit small for a 23" mono so I went to the next size up....1500 Watts! They have been shipped with the batteries.
I recall recommending the 1500's but only complimenting the smaller 600w outrunners. I have a pair in a villain that do well. No matter, semantics. =)


A lot of these small outrunner motors that are in the 3000kv - 4000kv are helicopter motors which have very high torque along with high rpm. With small mono hulls you have to be carefull you dont go to low on kv & put higher voltage through because these mono hulls are very narrow by design & you simply end up spinning the boat around the prop with to much torque & to big a propeller. Martin.

Yeah, definitely not low RPM, higher RPM and smaller prop. Seems to be a fun "power band" in higher RPM setups. High volt, High RPM, low amp, low KV. 36-40k.

[Brushless55]

yeah, I think these smallers hulls do better with higher kv motors
kinda like using a 10500kv motor in a 24th scale SCT Truck vs a 2200kv motor in a 8th scale truck

[martin]

These small monos are deff great fun to run especally when its a bit colder & you dont have to go & get your boat in the cold water. Their very cheap to buy or build & if any thing blows trying to get more speed as you do their very cheap on motors & esc replacments. Their so cheap you can buy a number of different motors as their are a lot around to try increasing speeds. Your not even really restricted in running such small boats in a bit of rough its more fun actually because the boat just keeps running no matter what, It either goes through a wave or over it because it dosnt matter how it ends up its allways the right way up & just gets on with the buisiness. Their also not to shabby on speed with the right motors & set ups for small money. Ive got a 15" mono that does around 45mph & still playing around with diff motors & when you see how fast & manoverable these little boats are in turns it seams their that much faster again. I now only run small self righting boats because i find them more fun & not to serious & i can do 45mph on a very small patch of water if nessesary. Martin.

[Chuck E Cheese]

what 15" self righting mono are you getting 45mph out of? i have always found that the smaller >17" dont like much over 35mph

[martin]

Wait for it, Its a Joysway Warrior modified with a raised air bubble on top of the hatch offset to one side to give the nessesary biased when upside down along with the offset weight of a heavier Nano Tech lipo. Hull has a double seal, The normal type clear sheet that sits on before the hatch but not the one they supply. I modify how this fits & make a new clear cover that sits inside the opening so the clear cover & deck line are flush to each other giving a better water seal & wider area for tape to sit on around the deck part. I also tape the hatch as well so with the amount of trapped air inside along with the raised bubble its like a cork when it goes over, I dont even have to close the throttle because it rights instantly.Done a lot of work getting the hull trimmed correctly +shortened rudder & rounded bottom,made new rudder hinge pin to take slop out of rudder,stiffened rudder mount bracket (all this movement in this area really affects a 15" hull at speed) With 35mm prop & stock motor 3000kv & 30amp esc i got 37mph. Fitted an Etti 3600kv outrunner motor & Etti 45amp esc & around 45mph on 35mm prop. I think this motor will poss take a bigger prop still but getting close to limit of hull regarding torque roll. The diff in exceration & top end is unbeliavable over the stock boat which i thought was pretty good any way at 37mph. Martin.

[questtek]

Ben,

How is your Nighthawk build coming. I have now installed and will test (as soon as the rain stops) a 1600 Watt Turnigy outrunner 1600KV on a 4S, 3300mAhr Turnigy Nano 45-90C battery. Pics show the install and my Garmin GPS to keep me honest. The 600 Watt outrunner was nice but it was clear that it could handle more....much more.

[FighterCat57]

Ben,

How is your Nighthawk build coming. I have now installed and will test (as soon as the rain stops) a 1600 Watt Turnigy outrunner 1600KV on a 4S, 3300mAhr Turnigy Nano 45-90C battery. Pics show the install and my Garmin GPS to keep me honest. The 600 Watt outrunner was nice but it was clear that it could handle more....much more.

I ran it this weekend, but not with a GPS. The mini rudder I installed is way too small and I haven't had the chance to change it yet. It's a rocket though!

I'm running the same 3126 I recommended and looks like you have installed. :cool2:
I have a 2200kv version too. The Turnigy 1600/1300 are made by Suppo Model and I carry their motors.

Can't wait to get some time to get it wet!

[questtek]

I ran it this weekend, but not with a GPS. The mini rudder I installed is way too small and I haven't had the chance to change it yet. It's a rocket though!

I'm running the same 3126 I recommended and looks like you have installed. :cool2:
I have a 2200kv version too. The Turnigy 1600/1300 are made by Suppo Model and I carry their motors.

Can't wait to get some time to get it wet!

Please keep me posted on the outcome of your run. I am very interested in way performance you will get. What prop are you using on your 1600KV motor in the Nighthawk? I will also instrument my boat with an EagleTree since I want to know the amps and RPM. I am using a Seaking 90 AMP ESC and will try not to blow it up.

I actually ordered two these motors, ( Turnigy N3126 1600 KV), from HK so it's twin goes into the DeltaForce Sniper. I want to compare performance between the two boats with the identical power plant set up.

If they survive, I also ordered a few of the New Sale Outrunners, 1800 KV and a bit larger in size ( The motor diameter is 42.5 mm). This may really be pushing the limit for these small boats. I know I will have to lay in a layer of carbon fiber if I go to this "Big Bertha" motor!

To make the motor exchange easy in both the NightHawk and the Sniper I designed a quick-change motor mount set up. I hate palying with thos small allen screws in tight places...way too frustrating even with some hand-made tools.

Pictures show:
Original Sniper outrunner (left) and the two Turnigy upgrade brushless motors
My motor mounting system with aluminum base plate mounted in boat
Comparison of Original Nighthawk inrunner with large Turnigy outrunner H3126

[FighterCat57]

Please keep me posted on the outcome of your run. I am very interested in way performance you will get. What prop are you using on your 1600KV motor in the Nighthawk? I will also instrument my boat with an EagleTree since I want to know the amps and RPM. I am using a Seaking 90 AMP ESC and will try not to blow it up.

I actually ordered two these motors, ( Turnigy N3126 1600 KV), from HK so it's twin goes into the DeltaForce Sniper. I want to compare performance between the two boats with the identical power plant set up.

If they survive, I also ordered a few of the New Sale Outrunners, 1800 KV and a bit larger in size ( The motor diameter is 42.5 mm). This may really be pushing the limit for these small boats. I know I will have to lay in a layer of carbon fiber if I go to this "Big Bertha" motor!

To make the motor exchange easy in both the NightHawk and the Sniper I designed a quick-change motor mount set up. I hate palying with thos small allen screws in tight places...way too frustrating even with some hand-made tools.

Pictures show:
Original Sniper outrunner (left) and the two Turnigy upgrade brushless motors
My motor mounting system with aluminum base plate mounted in boat
Comparison of Original Nighthawk inrunner with large Turnigy outrunner H3126

Those motor mounts are nice! We should design a "Quick Release" motor mount with rails the comes out of the boat with just a few easy to get to screws.

I'm using a K40 prop. Which from what I've been told is about the biggest for that size hull. Next is more Kv.

Curious to see what your eagle tree says. I'm not getting over 100 degrees with the 125a Suppo on 4s/1600 K40 after 20c/2200mah runs flat.

[questtek]

Is that prop like a 440?

My batteries are 3300mAhr, 45-90C Nano-Tech and that's why I want to use the Eagle Tree. If you ever need more temp sensors for your Eagle Tree just let me know......
Glad you like the mounts. Secure and Easy. The base plate on the convential water cooled mount is carbon fiber of pheonolic material. VERY easy motor exchange.

[questtek]

Here is a comparison of the Large Trunigy outrunners set up in the Nighthawk stepped mono and the DF Sniper. The drive gear is identical, Same motor exactly, same battery, same 90 Amp Seaking ESC. It will make an interesting comparison. If the weater clears I should be able to make some runs today.

[FighterCat57]

Is that prop like a 440?

My batteries are 3300mAhr, 45-90C Nano-Tech and that's why I want to use the Eagle Tree. If you ever need more temp sensors for your Eagle Tree just let me know......
Glad you like the mounts. Secure and Easy. The base plate on the convential water cooled mount is carbon fiber of pheonolic material. VERY easy motor exchange.

The K40 is a carbon filled plastic prop, similar to a x440, but not as stiff.

Looking forward to your results!

[Brushless55]

Here is a comparison of the Large Trunigy outrunners set up in the Nighthawk stepped mono and the DF Sniper. The drive gear is identical, Same motor exactly, same battery, same 90 Amp Seaking ESC. It will make an interesting comparison. If the weater clears I should be able to make some runs today.

both nice looking setups

[questtek]

Ran them with 438 props. I am using the 1600 KV Turnigy outrunner and it REALLY needs a 5S set up. 4S just does not give hte boat enough RPM's. The motor temp never over 90F so I realized I was not pushing anything on the 4S set up. I will test the boats on 5S tomorrow and maybe even go to 6s but then I begin to worry about the Seaking ESC at that voltage. I can prop up but believe the boats will have way to strong of a right side pull at high speed.

[FighterCat57]

Ran them with 438 props. I am using the 1600 KV Turnigy outrunner and it REALLY needs a 5S set up. 4S just does not give hte boat enough RPM's. The motor temp never over 90F so I realized I was not pushing anything on the 4S set up. I will test the boats on 5S tomorrow and maybe even go to 6s but then I begin to worry about the Seaking ESC at that voltage. I can prop up but believe the boats will have way to strong of a right side pull at high speed.

With the 1600, go 6s! Two small 3s in series. :cool2:

A capacitor will help with heat on the ESC, will help with voltage drops too. I have the new one setup on the bench and ready for 4s/2200 or 6s/1600kv.

With 6s you'll want a resistor for no-spark.

[martin]

With these design mono hulls which are quite narrow you have to be care full with torque roll, Going for lower kv x 5-6s is not always the best way. You really want high rpm but at lower voltage ie much higher kv motor on max 4s in that hull. You want some thing like 2400-2500kv on 4s & the hull will have good speed with better stability. Martin.

[FighterCat57]

With these design mono hulls which are quite narrow you have to be care full with torque roll, Going for lower kv x 5-6s is not always the best way. You really want high rpm but at lower voltage ie much higher kv motor on max 4s in that hull. You want some thing like 2400-2500kv on 4s & the hull will have good speed with better stability. Martin.

Done. We'll see how she runs! :thumbup1:

I replaced the brass tube with K&S 1/4" which is a perfect sub in for the 6mm brass that comes in the metric boats. There is a weight savings, but it's negligible.

Notice in the last photo, the teflon liner is adjusted so it fits right into the overhang of the coupler. This prevents shaft splatter. Quite well I might add.

I used a medium size aluminum mount and drilled/tapped the sides to accept the lightweight high torque DMG servo.

Used a Hobbwing 60a ESC and the following math:
4s1p, 2200mah, 20c = 44 amps
Starting with a 538 prop which should end up just about perfect for this little hull.

The whole boat weighs in at just 2 1/2 pounds with batteries, RTR.

After the mistake choosing the mini-rudder on the last one, I jumped up to a 95mm straight rudder.

Now that I have "twins" to compare, we can stack up the 4s/2200 vs the 6s/1600.

[Chuck E Cheese]

ok i am going to give a few opinions here (and they are just that. opinions). i have been playing with small monos for a couple years. my current boat to compair to this is a h&m no step 1, it is 23". i run a neu 1509 2s set-up (4500kv) and it works well. here are a few things i have learned over the years:
1) a boat this size likes weight, mine weighs 3 3/4 lbs (3lbs 12oz). they are running 40+ mph and need the weight to remain stable.
2) i like to use full size motors, 540s. 23" is a large hull to push with a 380 (or compairable outrunner). the smaller motors can push them but it stresses everything trying to spin the right size prop
3) spin a small prop faster rather than proping up (mine likes a modded x438 and also ran great on a 4950kv with a 435). larger props upset the hull and cause handling issues. i disagree with the previous post that yyou are better off using a lower voltage/higher kv motor. it doesnt matter, the boat doesnt know the difference. total RPM is total RPM weather coming from 12s or 2s.
4) use bigger batteries. it is hard to get what you need from batteries that will only put out 44 amps. granted i run 2s, i am running a turnigy 180 esc and 8000mah 40+c batteries (2s2p 4000)

i would be willing to bet that this hull would rip with a ammo 36-50-2300 on 4s and a 438

[martin]

My experience with micro type hulls around 15" for hull length is that if useing a lower kv motor on higher volts you have a motor that normally has more torque their for you tend to put a bigger prop on , Simply because you can with this set up & its all about going faster so we all put the biggest prop we can get away with. All you end up with is a very small hull that simply cant take the torque of the prop & you end up with the boat spinning around the prop. I know from my own 15" boats at around 45mph they are very sensative to torque with not much of the hull touching the water , At around 41-42 mph the hulls are rock steady with slightly more hull in the water. The extra 3-4mph past this point really does make a signifacant difference to how the hull behaves. Thanks Martin.

[martin]

I think 2200kv is a bit low on 4s, personally i would go around 2350 -2400kv. Good luck & have fun thats what its all about. Thanks Martin.

[FighterCat57]

ok i am going to give a few opinions here (and they are just that. opinions). i have been playing with small monos for a couple years. my current boat to compair to this is a h&m no step 1, it is 23". i run a neu 1509 2s set-up (4500kv) and it works well. here are a few things i have learned over the years:
1) a boat this size likes weight, mine weighs 3 3/4 lbs (3lbs 12oz). they are running 40+ mph and need the weight to remain stable.
2) i like to use full size motors, 540s. 23" is a large hull to push with a 380 (or compairable outrunner). the smaller motors can push them but it stresses everything trying to spin the right size prop
3) spin a small prop faster rather than proping up (mine likes a modded x438 and also ran great on a 4950kv with a 435). larger props upset the hull and cause handling issues. i disagree with the previous post that yyou are better off using a lower voltage/higher kv motor. it doesnt matter, the boat doesnt know the difference. total RPM is total RPM weather coming from 12s or 2s.
4) use bigger batteries. it is hard to get what you need from batteries that will only put out 44 amps. granted i run 2s, i am running a turnigy 180 esc and 8000mah 40+c batteries (2s2p 4000)

i would be willing to bet that this hull would rip with a ammo 36-50-2300 on 4s and a 438

Agreed about the 540+ motors. The 3126 is a 540 and rated at 1500 watts.
I'm curious about the weight. The principle I'm applying is lighter load = less amps.

Also higher V = less A, for example 600 watts on 2s = 81 amps, on 4s = 40 amps and on 6s = 27 amps. The advantage comes in requiring less amps. (600 watts is .8 HP)

As for today's water... it's coming from the sky. :crying:

Ah, to test another day!

[FighterCat57]

Some video of the FighterSplat in action. No GPS data, but it was faster than a SuperVee! :laugh:

A8X5iay1Q7s

N0PsrXTHzKQ

[FighterCat57]

BTW- The COG is WAY too far foreward on these, hence the poor turning. Making due with the battery packs on hand.

[Brushless55]

wow! :buttrock: