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Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 11:42 AM
Swordfish 200 or Seaking 180?

I'm powering a Leopard 4074 on 4s2p.

What would you guys use?

Any other opinions welcome!

Thanks. :olleyes:

driftah
11-30-2010, 12:31 PM
all i know is I love my seaking zero issues lol

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 01:18 PM
all i know is I love my seaking zero issues lol

Do you use BEC with your Seaking?

JMSCARD
11-30-2010, 01:33 PM
I don't know about the swordfish either., been waiting to here of folks who have tried them.... but I have 6 tunigy/seaking 180's.... love em' super easy to program with or without the program box... but I use the program box only cause I have so many of the 180's... highly highly recommend the seaking 180's..

you can use the internal bec on 4s.... but to be honest I run rxr packs in all my boats... the esc runs cooler without using the integrated bec, and its just literally habit now for me...

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 01:52 PM
I don't know about the swordfish either., been waiting to here of folks who have tried them.... but I have 6 tunigy/seaking 180's.... love em' super easy to program with or without the program box... but I use the program box only cause I have so many of the 180's... highly highly recommend the seaking 180's..

you can use the internal bec on 4s.... but to be honest I run rxr packs in all my boats... the esc runs cooler without using the integrated bec, and its just literally habit now for me...

I'm new to this BEC rxr stuff... :cursing: How is that set up? Do you just cut off the middle BEC wire from the ESC and plug that into the throttle slot on the receiver?

If it's easier, can you please post some pics or links on how this is set up? I would like to reduce the stress on my ESC... :help:

Rumdog
11-30-2010, 05:45 PM
The best thing for the esc, and easiest thing to do is- go to your receiver plug on the esc. Pull the red wire from the harness. Now you can plug a receiver pack like you'd use in a nitro car or truck, and plug it into the batt terminal on the receiver. This way your esc isn't trying to power the RX and servo, just the motor.
The BEC on a esc can work, but can be unreliable and leave you stranded if it fails.

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 07:59 PM
The best thing for the esc, and easiest thing to do is- go to your receiver plug on the esc. Pull the red wire from the harness. Now you can plug a receiver pack like you'd use in a nitro car or truck, and plug it into the batt terminal on the receiver. This way your esc isn't trying to power the RX and servo, just the motor.
The BEC on a esc can work, but can be unreliable and leave you stranded if it fails.

I'm more afraid of my boat flipping over than failing... lol I made a rescue boat from an old brushed boat...

Oh wow... That's... not hard at all.

So, let me make sure I'm getting this right... I want to make sure it's that simple and I'm not going to screw up my ESC. You just gotta plug the BEC to "Throttle" on the receiver, snip the red wire, get a receiver pack and plug that into the "Battery" on the receiver?

LarrysDrifter
11-30-2010, 08:05 PM
Dont ever "cut" the red wire.No need to.Just unplug it.And your boat flipping should be the last of your worries.Its kind of the nature of the hobby sometimes if you want to go really fast.

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 08:05 PM
Does anyone know where I can order a Seaking 180 now? Steve is sold out, and on ebay, the closest place I can order it from is Australia and Hong Kong...

HobbyKing carries an this...
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8937

Is this the same as the Seaking? They call it Turnigy, and the weight is the same: 165g.
But under the "Free Shipping" banner under the description, it says 273g...

Rumdog
11-30-2010, 08:09 PM
www.himodel.com

LarrysDrifter
11-30-2010, 08:12 PM
I think SeaKing is the original and Turnigy is a re-brand.And www.hobbyhot.com has them also.I got mine from them from china to Missouri in 4 days.

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 08:14 PM
Dont ever "cut" the red wire.No need to.Just unplug it.And your boat flipping should be the last of your worries.Its kind of the nature of the hobby sometimes if you want to go really fast.

I figured, but I started this thread because I'm looking to REPLACE the ESC I just fried.

I JUST finished my first boat, and we ran out of hatch tape. My dad insisted on Duct-tape :bash::bash::bash: (please, no comments. I know it's absolutely, unspeakable retarded)...

On top of that, winds were at 15+ mph. Waves were high. It flipped, and we had to wait for it to drift back. By the time it was back, the hull was FLOODED. Servo is fine. So's the receiver (MR3000). Motor worked fine too (I tried it with my car's ESC.) But the ESC was toast.

Side question:
When I first got my motor, Leopard 4074, the shaft was difficult to turn. But after It got wet, it became noticeably easier. Is this just because that happens in general after a run, or did I toast my motor too?

I took my motor apart to dry it. I also didn't notice this before, but when I push on the shaft now, it sticks out the back (a little). :huh:

Kevinlei324
11-30-2010, 08:18 PM
I think SeaKing is the original and Turnigy is a re-brand.And www.hobbyhot.com has them also.I got mine from them from china to Missouri in 4 days.

Is that from Hobbyhot.com? and was that standard shipping?

Cause I've ordered stuff from Hong Kong a couple times and they've always arrived 2 weeks, soonest...

LarrysDrifter
11-30-2010, 08:26 PM
I figured, but I started this thread because I'm looking to REPLACE the ESC I just fried.

I JUST finished my first boat, and we ran out of hatch tape. My dad insisted on Duct-tape :bash::bash::bash: (please, no comments. I know it's absolutely, unspeakable retarded)...

On top of that, winds were at 15+ mph. Waves were high. It flipped, and we had to wait for it to drift back. By the time it was back, the hull was FLOODED. Servo is fine. So's the receiver (MR3000). Motor worked fine too (I tried it with my car's ESC.) But the ESC was toast.

Side question:
When I first got my motor, Leopard 4074, the shaft was difficult to turn. But after It got wet, it became noticeably easier. Is this just because that happens in general after a run, or did I toast my motor too?

I took my motor apart to dry it. I also didn't notice this before, but when I push on the shaft now, it sticks out the back (a little). :huh:

My point was not to cut the red wire.And yes my order was from hobbyhot.com to the post office in 4 days with standard shipping.(Two SeaKing 120 amp speedos).

BHChieftain
11-30-2010, 11:27 PM
My point was not to cut the red wire.And yes my order was from hobbyhot.com to the post office in 4 days with standard shipping.(Two SeaKing 120 amp speedos).

Hi,
I'm confused on how you remove the red wire without cutting it (which is what I do)...

Do you just pull it out of the connector? What difference does it make?

Chief

JMSCARD
11-30-2010, 11:37 PM
Hi,
I'm confused on how you remove the red wire without cutting it (which is what I do)...

Do you just pull it out of the connector? What difference does it make?

Chief

no difference at all... but if you just pull it out of the connector you can reinstall it later with no soldering, and in a snap... 2 seconds....... let say you are running 4-6s in a hotter setup with plenty of room in the boat for a rxr pack.... then you use the same esc in a much smaller hull on only 4s you may want to use the internal bec again for space issues and because you are running the lower, bec safe, voltage :) so its nice to plug the wire back in for different applications..

BHChieftain
12-01-2010, 12:05 AM
no difference at all... but if you just pull it out of the connector you can reinstall it later with no soldering, and in a snap... 2 seconds....... let say you are running 4-6s in a hotter setup with plenty of room in the boat for a rxr pack.... then you use the same esc in a much smaller hull on only 4s you may want to use the internal bec again for space issues and because you are running the lower, bec safe, voltage :) so its nice to plug the wire back in for different applications..

Thanks-- didn't know you could just "unplug" it!... Good to know,
Chief

JMSCARD
12-01-2010, 12:12 AM
Thanks-- didn't know you could just "unplug" it!... Good to know,
Chief

take a paperclip or very small straight edge screwdrive and push down on the metal "finger" you can see on the red wire thats sitting in the plug... press down real gentle so you don't break it off or bend it severely and pull on the wire til it slips out, presto.... now tape it back with some electrical tape to the other wires to make it look nice and clean... when you need it for use it will ber right there ready for action.

PaulKTM
12-01-2010, 08:22 AM
I have used both the Swordfish 200 or Seaking 180 on a Leopard 4074 with 4s1p in a JAE rigger. The Seaking was a pain to use as the size and layout was not very well suited to the JAE, it worked fine and I pushed it to 150+ A without issue. It did get warm, but was fine. The Swordfish fits MUCH better in the JAE and I have pushed it harder and it keeps its cool better. Since they are about the same price go with the one that would fit best in your boat. I would say Seaking for mono's or hydro boats, the Swordfish for the rigger boats. I do feel the Swordfish is a better unit overall, and I like the USB programming as well.

DISAR
12-01-2010, 09:17 AM
both are good for your setup, yes check the space available. Have tested both escs, my swordfish 200A has an issue, it does not slow down the boat immediately there is some delay. I prefer the Turnigy 180, easier to totally waterproof as well.

questtek
12-01-2010, 09:49 AM
I am using the same combination, Seaking 180 powering a Leopard 4074 (2200kv) on 4s2p in three different boats: Mean Machine, Pursuit mono, Insane Hydro and 30" Cat Airboat and have never had a single issue with any of the set ups. I use the internal BEC to keep things simple yet push the boats to the limits. The system worked out so well I am finishing setting up another Mean Machine with a dual system with the same Motor/ESC combo.

MarkF
12-01-2010, 11:22 AM
I run my insane hydro with the Neu 1527 1D motor on 4s and the seaking 180 using the internal BEC. I also used this controller at the saw event with no problems with a very hot set up. The controller only has to power up 1 servo so its fine. I would use seperate bec if using 5 or 6s lipos.

Mark

BakedMopar
12-01-2010, 01:19 PM
Nothing wrong with the bec on both of these units. The 180 is much easier to use with the program box and the throttle is nice and smooth. I have used both and they both are good units for the price.

lectriglide
12-01-2010, 01:39 PM
Does anyone know where I can order a Seaking 180 now? Steve is sold out, and on ebay, the closest place I can order it from is Australia and Hong Kong...


Kevin - I've ordered from Alex here a couple times and received it in 3 or 4 days (USA based). He just recently started carrying the 180's. :rockon2:

http://www.valuehobby.com/products.php?category_id=27

Kevinlei324
12-01-2010, 08:42 PM
both are good for your setup, yes check the space available. Have tested both escs, my swordfish 200A has an issue, it does not slow down the boat immediately there is some delay. I prefer the Turnigy 180, easier to totally waterproof as well.

I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

Kevinlei324
12-01-2010, 08:46 PM
I am using the same combination, Seaking 180 powering a Leopard 4074 (2200kv) on 4s2p in three different boats: Mean Machine, Pursuit mono, Insane Hydro and 30" Cat Airboat and have never had a single issue with any of the set ups. I use the internal BEC to keep things simple yet push the boats to the limits. The system worked out so well I am finishing setting up another Mean Machine with a dual system with the same Motor/ESC combo.


Are you planning to set up twins???

LOL. That's EXACTLY what my next project is!! Mean Machine twin! You HAVE to post some pics!

Question:
When you set up a twin version of an existing "single" motor boat, would the amp draw be less for each motor if everything else is kept consisting (like prop, hull, etc)?

Kevinlei324
12-01-2010, 08:54 PM
If price was not an option, which esc would you guys get?

I just might start saving up for one...

RIPFENCE
12-01-2010, 09:18 PM
I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

yeah what is up with this its kind of annoying actually...things happen fast at 60mph and i do not like the throttle response from the swordfish...my older swordfish did not have this problem

Kevinlei324
12-01-2010, 09:29 PM
yeah what is up with this its kind of annoying actually...things happen fast at 60mph and i do not like the throttle response from the swordfish...my older swordfish did not have this problem

I noticed that it lagged when I released the throttle. Does braking work? I never tried it (Never got to).

JMSCARD
12-01-2010, 09:38 PM
I run my insane hydro with the Neu 1527 1D motor on 4s and the seaking 180 using the internal BEC. I also used this controller at the saw event with no problems with a very hot set up. The controller only has to power up 1 servo so its fine. I would use seperate bec if using 5 or 6s lipos.

Mark

this says it all..... GREAT esc's... if Markf uses them in SAW events they must be good... I have a bunch of them and guess I'll continue buying them... in fact I just sold Tiqueman 2 etti 150's brand new with 2 runs on them..... I sold them for just enough money to cover two turnigy 180's to replace them... I was losing my patience changing programing and the turnigys program box is super nice setup...

Kevinlei324
12-01-2010, 09:51 PM
this says it all..... GREAT esc's... if Markf uses them in SAW events they must be good... I have a bunch of them and guess I'll continue buying them... in fact I just sold Tiqueman 2 etti 150's brand new with 2 runs on them..... I sold them for just enough money to cover two turnigy 180's to replace them... I was losing my patience changing programing and the turnigys program box is super nice setup...

wow.. This Seaking 180 Craze is worst than I thought... :rofl:

I was going to ask whether I should buy 3: one for my current setup, and two for my future twin setup... I guess I can predict what you guys will say. xD

DISAR
12-02-2010, 05:14 AM
I am very happy with the turnigy 180 so far, have tried 2 etti 150 too, but burnt them quickly.........
yes the issue with the swordfish 200 and 240 (the 120 is fine) is quite annoying at high speeds and in racing where accurate control of the boat is important
have exchanged some e-mails and what they recommend is receiver far from esc, and separate receiver battery. already did this but no change.

Chilli
12-02-2010, 06:19 AM
both are good for your setup, yes check the space available. Have tested both escs, my swordfish 200A has an issue, it does not slow down the boat immediately there is some delay. I prefer the Turnigy 180, easier to totally waterproof as well.

The T-180 although a great controller is not totally waterproof. Ask me how I know.:flashfire:

DINO7
12-02-2010, 06:57 AM
I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

same here for 200A. lag 1-2 sec to cut down is very dangerous.we need a updated software for 200 s.

DISAR
12-02-2010, 08:25 AM
The T-180 although a great controller is not totally waterproof. Ask me how I know.:flashfire:

I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

Kevinlei324
12-02-2010, 09:11 AM
I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

So, the servo was toast?

I was thinking that when I get my seeking 180, I would just seal all the edges with epoxy and cover any exposed electronics. I never imagined I would have to remove the cooling plate and whatnot...

sailr
12-02-2010, 09:46 AM
I don't cut or remove the red wire! I use a short servo extension and cut THAT red wire. That way your original ESC lead stays untouched!


no difference at all... but if you just pull it out of the connector you can reinstall it later with no soldering, and in a snap... 2 seconds....... let say you are running 4-6s in a hotter setup with plenty of room in the boat for a rxr pack.... then you use the same esc in a much smaller hull on only 4s you may want to use the internal bec again for space issues and because you are running the lower, bec safe, voltage :) so its nice to plug the wire back in for different applications..

sailr
12-02-2010, 10:23 AM
Can you set a soft brake on that esc? That might help.


I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

Chilli
12-02-2010, 10:42 AM
I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

Cool. I'll try sealing if I get another one. My hull flooded and the controller was totally submerged for serval minutes. I tried to use it the following heat and that was a big mistake. The nitro guys got a nice show though.:olleyes:

questtek
12-02-2010, 12:04 PM
Here is an easy alternate that works for me. I use a hot glue gun and go over all the electrical connections and servo connection where they mount to the control board include the caps. I have found this method both to be waterproof and also easy to remove the hot glue in case you want to re-solder any of the leads.

Kevinlei324
12-02-2010, 02:10 PM
Here is an easy alternate that works for me. I use a hot glue gun and go over all the electrical connections and servo connection where they mount to the control board include the caps. I have found this method both to be waterproof and also easy to remove the hot glue in case you want to re-solder any of the leads.

that's a pretty good idea. Do you take anything apart, or do you just go over all the gaps? I'm afraid of damaging the circuit if I took it apart myself to apply glue or epoxy..

questtek
12-02-2010, 03:56 PM
Secret is good hot wax stick and the gun really hot. I take nothing apart. If something fails, it is easy to just pull off the hot wax and it looks totally original. If you use epoxy or silicon it is a dead give away that you "modified" the ESC.

Kevinlei324
12-02-2010, 11:13 PM
Secret is good hot wax stick and the gun really hot. I take nothing apart. If something fails, it is easy to just pull off the hot wax and it looks totally original. If you use epoxy or silicon it is a dead give away that you "modified" the ESC.

:rofl: