proboat electronics worhtless??

[roadrashracing]

Is is just me or do you pretty much have to give a away proboat electronics, it just seems like there are a lot of them out there and need to be priced cheap to sell. I am glad I did not get a miss g and try to sell the electronics.

[ron1950]

buy a stiletto and sell me the esc cheep lol

[tiqueman]

And sell me the Stiletto motor... cheap

[hobie]

Such a shame you have to buy a RTR product, when REALLY it's not. I mean, it's like a toy at the store untill you mod it out.
You should have just bought the hull. Like I should have. Love the boat, but everything inside had to go, since I blew up 2 stock speed controls.
After replacing EVERYTHING inside, and fixing the rudder issue, it runs great now. Such a shame it comes the way it does. Why can't someone make a real race ready boat??? Maybe one day...

[LiPo Power]

This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...

[hobie]

Ok, that is a good point. I've spent enough money to buy 2! Oh well, I agree, it's crazy fun for the money.
Like I said, love the way it handles, and runs. Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

[tiqueman]

Yeah I think for out of the box, you cant get a better boat than the MG. I dont know why you had so many issues w/ the Speedy hobie. What were you doing to cause this???????? I think the PB electronics are fantastic. I did change my ESC out to a T-120, but only because Im swinging larger props to get my speeds up in race conditions. I dont want to risk blowing the stock speedy.

[Doby]

Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

[hobie]

I'm not sure. I might have over done it by running 5s, but my temps weren't hot, but then I was told heat wouldn't be the main factor. But after my smoke show, my servo started twitching all the time. So I had to replace that, then to be safe I got rid of the stock radio system and went to a tactic. I also just recieved yesterday, my new T-120, so I think I will be on the safe side. Im planning on running a 445 or 447 on 5s. I also put an Ammo 1800kv motor in it.
Oh, my esc just stopped working, no smoke or nothing. It would even program and arm properly, just wouldn't spin the motor. I grabbed my buddies, and his was the one that smoked. And even tho proboat said they would replace it, nothing has shown up. And I tried to email them again, asking about the status, and I don't even get a reply. So customer service isn't very good either. Just everything about proboat has left a bad taste in my mouth. This was my first proboat purchase, and most likely my last.

[hobie]

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

One esc stopped working after 4 runs, and after one run, I had one smoke. Then the servo was chattering all the time, so that had to go.....

[hobie]

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

Also, I read here that someone used a logger... 47 amp average on a 45 amp speed control doesn't leave much room for error. Jmo.
This is why I'm using a 120 amp, just to have a SMALL margin of error.

[Fluid]

It is very easy to over-amp the spec setups just by using large props and high performance packs. I ran a 50 mph setup in my FE-30 with the UL-1 motor and AQ 60 amp ESC without problems, but when I switched to a Castle ICE100 I was logging 70-80 amps and spikes over 110 with no other changes. So some spec ESCs are clearly under-rated. I haven't used the 45 amp PB controllers so I don't know much about them, but others have used them in higher amp draw setups. The new PB controller in the Stiletto is nice, but mine is very touchy at low throttle.



.

[Boomer]

This is an interesting topic for sure. My experiences with Proboat ESC's are mixed, but are mostly positive. The ESC that came with my MG performed perfectly, until I over powered it. I didn't realize that the boat came wired in "series", so whatever batteries I used, the ESC and motor were seeing double the voltage of the voltage listed on the battery. So if you are using two 11.1 volt batteries, that is really yielding 22.2 volts. If the boat is wired in parallel the voltage to them would remain at 11.1 V, but the mAh doubles. As I understand it.

If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.

Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!

Who the heck thought of this? And why not make it easier for simple folks like me to figure this stuff out. I have been searching for a very simple chart that provides conversations for these different units of energy, so I can calculate the right and safe combinations. I am not an electrician or electrical engineer. I guess I have to go back to school to learn this stuff, just need to know where the school is, other than toasting a few things.

Having said all that, I still have to ask the smarter RC chaps to break the code for me. I know now that you can't use a 45 amp ESC with a pair 11.1v 3 cell lipos when wired in series, which I now know equals 6s. I was very lucky that I only toasted the ESC, and not the whole boat! It was very exciting to see the speed that combo produced for maybe a few very fast passes before it produced a black cloud of smoke that is as pungent a smell as a dead body. Sorry about the gross comparison, but anyone who has toasted an ESC knows what I am talking about. That was my fault not the ESC's.

The only negative thing I can report on is on one model of their ESC that is in my Proboat Classic Runabout. It refuses to operate with any 2.4 ghz radio system. It works fine with the stock 27 mgh radio. I have tried 6 of them to no avail. It will operate the rudder servo but not the motor. It will operate everything if you reverse the two plugs, but then the throttle controls the rudder and the rudder controls the throttle. Proboat has been very good about replacing them, but can't explain why they don't work. The instructions even say this ESC can be used with 2.4 systems.

So for now, I am back to that POS radio that it came with. I am sure unless someone can tell me how to get this particular speed control to work with one of my 2.4 radios, I will end up replacing it with a different brand ESC.

I have several other Proboats that all work as advertised, so with that one issue with my runabout, I am good with their stuff. I haven't found better people to do business with and that is saying a lot. I agree that for the money, they provide fair value. I have been around HP cars and boats for many years and know that the faster you want to go, the more expensive it gets and it is the same with RC boats.

Still think it would be nice to locate a simple reference chart that would help lay people learn without toasting stuff. Perhaps one of you advanced fellows can point me in the direction of such a reference tool. I'd promise to study it!

Thank you
Boomer

[ron1950]

boomer....nice .....i couldn't write that much if my life depended on it.......lol

[JackBlack26]

This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...
I completely agree! I'm super happy with mine running it on 4S as its intended to be run. It's like anything else, it has it's limits. My Armada 4x4 is rated to tow up to 9000 pounds. I could probably super charge it and get it to tow even more, but the motor wont last long and I'll probably burn out the breaks too while trying to stop. Would it be the trucks fault?:doh:

Bottom line, everything has it's limits and specially these boats since we all use different C rated batteries, some of us use "cheap" HobbyCity packs, bigger or different props, and some even alter the weight of the boat. For the money and used as intended you should not have any issues. If my ESC does burn out while running it as intended, then I'll call Horizen. I have never had an issues with them replacing a burned item within a certain amount of time as long as I provide them with a receipt.

Happy boating!
Rafael

[tiqueman]

Boomer, have you downloaded FeCalc??? Thats a big help item. Donyt over think setups. Just shoot for your proper rpm range to figure out KV vs. voltage. Everything else will come in time. And the more you build, the more you will begin to understand and be able to figure things out. My first dabble with FE was also my first with brushless. I felt lost.. Then I got FeCalc and started puting 2 and 2 together.

Hobie, this is for you. Also a general rule of thumb, when you up the voltage, you down size in props. 5S turning a 445 or 447 may? give you issues. Start w/ a smaller prop and work your way up if amp draw and temp allow. Otherwise your going to think turnigy controllers are no good either. What prop were you spinning on the stock esc at 5S?

[JimClark]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

[tiqueman]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

Amen Brother Jim! :iagree:

[jac4412]

For the stock setup... this boat cannot be any better... neither can its electronics. I've raced a few boats, and have talked to a few racers, almost everyone who has driven a MG that I know of has been extremely impressed with the boat, most agreeing its the best RTR boat out there (For a decent size FE). You can't expect that esc to run well in 4 foot chop on 6s on a 20 min runtime..... (aka you can't ask more from it than it can take, just like any other esc)

[scoota]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

:iagree: If you all think PB escs are crap , why not buy a hull only & set it up how you like ???? i have my BJ26 esc its 4 years old & still going strong !!! Running 5s & over proping will KILL any 45 amp ESC........... I think more people should invest in data loggers to see what amps you pulling with different set ups , you might be surprised at what a few mm in prop size will do to your AMP draw ....

[LiPo Power]

I do not see anyone here that will share <<roadrashracing>> opinion.
It is simple. PB MG, Bj-26, FF, stiletto electronics are right where they shoud be.
We all know that. End of subject..... :thumbup1:

[ray schrauwen]

...and what cells exactly was he running? if they were not up to snuff, then his esc's would not last long on 4S either.

BL ESC's do not like poor cells, the Fet's may not turn on fully and, bye bye ESC...

[ron1950]

i am running the stiletto 1800 motor in my mg with the 45a esc and no problems at all with a 640 prop.....stays very cool and all...but if it pops the esc its my fault not pb's and ill get another esc....just my 2 cents

[GP73]

I *do* have an issue with the stock Stiletto ESC and it's how the caps are connected to the PCB, there is no easy way to change them if they blow up... It would have been nicer if they made them easier to replace.

Other than that it's a very nicely built ESC and very good spec for the boat. Just make sure you add a capacitor bank before using it... :smile:



I do not see anyone here that will share <<roadrashracing>> opinion.
It is simple. PB MG, Bj-26, FF, stiletto electronics are right where they shoud be.
We all know that. End of subject..... :thumbup1:

[JimClark]

Then swap the ESC out and you can sell the stock one to ME


I *do* have an issue with the stock Stiletto ESC and it's how the caps are connected to the PCB, there is no easy way to change them if they blow up... It would have been nicer if they made them easier to replace.

Other than that it's a very nicely built ESC and very good spec for the boat. Just make sure you add a capacitor bank before using it... :smile:

[GP73]

I fried the stock one by running the wrong motor on it... :glare:

That's how I found out about the capacitors... I still think it's a great ESC, very well packaged (too well?), I just didn't research the motor properly first. :doh:

I really like the fact that it's well sealed all the way around, I've submerged that ESC several times by flipping the Stilletto and even after sitting in water for 15-20 minutes it was still working perfectly.

The only other "flaw" I can see is the price, I can buy 2 Seaking 120A for that amount. :olleyes:

I would buy another if it was half the current price.

EDIT: And I'm wondering why the STLO ESC is almost double the price of the MG one...


Then swap the ESC out and you can sell the stock one to ME

[ron1950]

tell me where i can get a seaking 120 for 55 bucks pls ...i need one lol

[7500RPM]

...and what cells exactly was he running? if they were not up to snuff, then his esc's would not last long on 4S either.

BL ESC's do not like poor cells, the Fet's may not turn on fully and, bye bye ESC...

I am not taking any sides on this BUT if ESC are designed correctly and with GOOD FET's not this surface mount crap (SOIC package) that some companys like to just keep adding boards of them to get the power rating they are trying to say they can handle, then there would be less ESC failures...AND if people would use common sense about loading them...

[Darin Jordan]

The only other "flaw" I can see is the price, I can buy 2 Seaking 120A for that amount. :olleyes:


How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking??? :glare: :bounce:

[Diesel6401]

Ok, that is a good point. I've spent enough money to buy 2! Oh well, I agree, it's crazy fun for the money.
Like I said, love the way it handles, and runs. Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

Better? My opinion is the PB45amp esc is one of the best 45amp esc, way better then the stock sv45amp. If you know what your doing you can make that esc work very well. I know I'm running a stiletto motor on my 45amp esc, just using a smaller prop and changing the connectors and other need to do things.


I'm not sure. I might have over done it by running 5s, but my temps weren't hot, but then I was told heat wouldn't be the main factor. But after my smoke show, my servo started twitching all the time. So I had to replace that, then to be safe I got rid of the stock radio system and went to a tactic. I also just recieved yesterday, my new T-120, so I think I will be on the safe side. Im planning on running a 445 or 447 on 5s. I also put an Ammo 1800kv motor in it.
Oh, my esc just stopped working, no smoke or nothing. It would even program and arm properly, just wouldn't spin the motor. I grabbed my buddies, and his was the one that smoked. And even tho proboat said they would replace it, nothing has shown up. And I tried to email them again, asking about the status, and I don't even get a reply. So customer service isn't very good either. Just everything about proboat has left a bad taste in my mouth. This was my first proboat purchase, and most likely my last.

Did you change all the connectors when running 5s to 5.5mm or higher (and I mean all), did you dis-able the esc bec? Did you time your runs and check temps often? What size prop cause a 447 on a BJ motor is a whole lot of prop even on 4s.

Why down grade to a Tactic? Yes I run tactic and love them, but the MG comes with one of the best RX's on out. Hands down it's the nicest rx from any rtr and binds with any marine spectrum radio on the market. In no way am I bashing tactic, or bashing a member. Their is just a whole lot of blame game when a lot of people should point the finger at themselves. The PB esc was not designed to run 5s, it's just a bonus that it does (if you take the time and setup it correctly).


It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

I 100% agree. How many threads was their about the programming for lipos and people b*tching about it not coming programmed and all the questions related to it, when the whole situation is laid out in the manual word for word on what you need to do. Is it PB's fault that people use the product outside of their suggested setup? Where in the manual does it the say it's ok to run 5s? I bet if people read the manual and used the recommended setups their wouldn't be any issues. If I burn my controller out its my own damn fault for deviating from the suggested setups. I can't blame anyone, but myself.

[GP73]

HK, $50 plus shipping, just make sure you set a notification when they have it in stock.

Or in alternative you can buy the Swordfish 120A here on OSE, not as cheap but good enough.


tell me where i can get a seaking 120 for 55 bucks pls ...i need one lol

[Doby]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

[Doby]

GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[GP73]

I knew this was coming... :olleyes:

Depends on how good you sealed it! :biggrin:

My sentiment is that they could shave at least $20+ bucks off the STLO ESC and still make money... I'm sure they will in few months anyway like they did for the BJ/MG ESC. :bounce:

Then I'll buy one. :thumbup1:


How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking??? :glare: :bounce:

[GP73]

I did replace caps, the ESC didn't start, I think I fried it good with that stupid Feigao.

(EDIT: I've fried another Suppo 70A with that motor before cluing in :doh: :lol:)

I should have read more about the motor before using it with the stock ESC, I totally deserved it.

As for keeping the wet side down... no problems, there is no wet side anymore, not until spring anyway... :swear:

Sigh.


GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[befu]

If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.

Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!
<... shortened quite a bit...>

Who the heck thought of this? Thank you
Boomer

Wow! Writing like that you could be an engineer!!!! Oh, and that is pretty much who came up with stuff like that. Engineers and scientist.

Ohm is a unit of resistance
Amps is a measurement of current, or coulombs per second, not power
volts is a measurement of electrical potential. One volt across one ohm of resistance will produce one amp!
None of these are energy or power, but are components of it.

energy is capable of doing work and electrical energy is measured in watt-hours or 3.6 Joules I believe.

Electrical power is one volt flowing at one amp is 1 watt of power. Since our ESC's simulate 3 phase power, on the motor side of the ESC you also get into effective power, but I do not want to make this complicated. :confused2:
Basically, power is the rate at which energy is consumed or used.

OK, those are the basics and are basically laws, you can not change the units on them as they are all different items. It would be like calling a cow, bike and mountain the same thing to make it easier.

Now, the motors are different stuff. There are some tutorials on here that help to explain it much better than I could in a single post, plus I would probably make mistakes or have to go back and read it again or just plagarize, non of which is very good.

I agree, it is very confusing and it isn't done to try to get new people, but you are dealing with complicated design items that can not be simplified. I had a professor in college that said people typically over complicate things, or try to simplify them to the point that they are just wrong.

before you start modifying items, take some time and do some studying. It is not easy, but once you learn the knowledge, you will really enjoy the design portion of the hobby much more! It really is fun stuff.

Go ahead and spend the time reading, you will find out that you really are much smarter than an esc and motor!

And yes I am a mechanical engineer. Try living that life, it ain't easy being an engineer out in the social circles!

Brian

[Doby]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge:rofl::hug1:

[7500RPM]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge:rofl:

Google Calgary's Peace Bride what a joke!

[bwells]

That appears to be a very long span! I guess if you drive across it, you will hope the engineer knew his stuff.

[LiPo Power]

Me too :w00t:


[QUOTE=GP73;260052]I knew this was coming... :olleyes:

[LiPo Power]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?





How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking??? :glare: :bounce:

[Darin Jordan]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?

Don't know... you'll have to call ProBoat....

[roadrashracing]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

[ron1950]

seems to be a market for the 60a esc but noone is selling that i can find.....

[JackBlack26]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to the wire gauge resistance, of the small wire. Energy will basically "bunch up" at the connector creating a hot spot. We see this a lot in electrical panels, on breakers that ate bolted in place with screws that are too small or being over drawn.

Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 gauge wire will create even more resistance than necessary, specifically if it has lead in it.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive lead to ease the flow of initial energy to the stock caps, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.

[Diesel6401]

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

The market is simply over saturated, just like with the SV's. For a long time at any given day their was like 4 or 5 sv's for sale just here on OSE, people couldn't give them away does that mean the SV is junk? Your OP is bashing PB electrics, when it's not the fault of PB. They made a great product a lot of people on here of had them and used them and know what they can do so we move on to the next and sell. I just sold a motor last month for around $35 because that's what is was worth because of the market no fault of PB just a lot of people trying to sell at the same time.

[Darin Jordan]

I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is create a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.


I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed... :spy:

[Diesel6401]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive leas onjelp the flow of initial energy to the stock caps slow down, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.

Problem with the 3mm was they were de-soldering real easy and causing failures, change them out problem fixed, now that's not a technical answer even though I do have a electrical background, but it works. K.I.S.S ( Keep It Simple Stupid), we can over think the situation or do what works. I have been bashing my 45 amp esc for the last few months with a motor that can pull more constant than what the esc is rated for, still works still runs cool and im waiting to see how far I can push until she lets go. All I did was change all the connectors and dis-able the bec.

[Boomer]

Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[GP73]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)


Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[JackBlack26]

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed... :spy:

I agree that changing to bigger contacts will keep them from melting off, but most times when they melt off it's from bad solder jobs like with what used to be found in the tabs of mass produced Zippy LiPos. Simply taking the time to unsolder them and make sure that they have made good contact and aren't "cold soldered" is more than enough to prevent any issues. We have to remember that in mass produced electronics it's quantity that maters not quality so bad solder jobs definitely make it through and IMO causing the failures we see most of.

You may see the larger connector as a "heat sink" but I see it as a hot spot, as will an infrared camera, specially when covered in heat shrink. It may work for many racers who only run for short bursts, or less time than the "average" RTR customer would; and I will not argue that because I do not have that kind of experience. I would however like to be able to run 4-5 packs through my boat on the same outing if possible, not just a few laps around some buoy.

It's great to hear that they are looking in to the small size wire leads in these systems. If I could do it without voiding my warranty I would upgrade them to larger wires from the origin.

Please don't take any of what I have said as an argument. I don't want to start any trouble and respect your views. It's simply my point of view from experience with working on electrical systems. It's how I was trained to think when it comes to power delivery. Bigger and less resistance is only better when the whole power delivery system is of the same, adequate size from start to finish. :beerchug:

[JackBlack26]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)
Awesome info! Thanks :thumbup1:

[LiPo Power]

Right on!!!!
So soon enough will see RTR components with better connectors and wires... :banana:





I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed... :spy:

[befu]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge:rofl::hug1:

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job! :blah: :blah:

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... :Sinking: Um, bad example. Never mind.
:beerchug:
Brian

[LiPo Power]

:w00t:







Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job! :blah: :blah:

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... :Sinking: Um, bad example. Never mind.
:beerchug:
Brian

[Doby]

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job! :blah: :blah:

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... :Sinking: Um, bad example. Never mind.
:beerchug:
Brian

OK,,,go design a toaster:biggrin::biggrin:

[JackBlack26]

You guys crack me up:lol:

[LiPo Power]

Same here, LOL....

[befu]

OK,,,go design a toaster:biggrin::biggrin:

OK, now that is funny! Actually, I started this when I was looking at making a 4' long vacuum forming machine.... Odd, ain't it!

Brian

[dano1]

I just orderd a octura x642 balanced. I seen diesel's posts on this combo and am running all stock m/g hardware with 8000 lipos, havent had any problems, this prop won't harm me........will it?? You guys are scaring me!!!!!!!!

Dano

[ron1950]

642 works great for the mg....

[ray schrauwen]

No not on that 1500Kv motor, no problem. As always you should monitor temps.

[Boomer]

Nope your good to go!

[Diesel6401]

I just orderd a octura x642 balanced. I seen diesel's posts on this combo and am running all stock m/g hardware with 8000 lipos, havent had any problems, this prop won't harm me........will it?? You guys are scaring me!!!!!!!!

Dano

PB electrics are Great and PROVEN! People are just pissed about their re-sale value, because the market is over-saturated. Ignore the non-sense. The x642 will not pose a issue on that stock power. We were suggesting lower pitch props to help eliminate the bounce the MG gets.

[dano1]

Thanks boomer and diesel, no tears on da pillow tonite

[roadrashracing]

I never have had broblems with my proboat 2 battery speed control, I did have my single battery brushless speedcontrol burn up and melt half my boat.

[dano1]

Yea, i hear when those things go up in smoke that the smell is pretty fowl and hard to get out of the boat, ive smoked batterys on the trucks and blown a few motors on the nitro's so im sure my ticket is gonna be soon on m/g. (hopefully not)

[FrostyNutz]

Hi folks ,, new guy here with a day1 problem.

Has anyone here had any issues with the Transmitter ? I just recieved my MG , charged the Lipos and put new batteries in the transmitter. Turn it on and I get the 1 green and the red on the front but no light on the back indicating the Bind cycle. I tried another set of batts and still nothing. My buddy drops by with his MG and binds with my boat in 2 secs with his TM. SO end of day1 ,,,, boat works but no transmitter to run it.

I called the place where I purchased it , they will send me a replacement transmitter. Actually ,, they will charge me for it and then credit me back when they recieve this one. Good service but it's not how I wanted to start my RC boating hobby .

Has anyone else had this issue ?

[ron1950]

never had a prob with the 3 i have.....guess you have to figure one out of a 1000 will be bad somwhere ......

[Boomer]

I don't think your transmitter is defective. Did you read the instructions?? Did you buy a programing card? The ESC is factory-set for use with Ni-MH batteries. You need a programing card if your are running lipos. You can get the card at: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-prb3311&cat=75

See Page 6 of the manual http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/PRB4100_User_Manual.pdf

It is very simple to program your boat, and if you drift through some of the earlier posts on the Miss Geico section, you will see a number of tips to follow to get your radio in proper sync with the receiver.

Check out this thread, it should be helpful: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=17772

Check out the video on this link: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM3140

This info should get you on track. :thumbup1:
Boomer

[ron1950]

boomer i dont think he is talking about anything except binding the tx and rx and from what i have heard the program card with lipo turned on turns on the bat cutoff but not really sure of that.....

have you trued to bind it at all? did anything blink at all?

[FrostyNutz]

Thanks guys ,, Yes I tried to bind it with the bind plug in place, the rec light was blinking as it should and I left it for 60secs to finish the bind cycle. We both tried it a binch of times and then I called the tech line ,, they wlaked me through the same process and again ,, nothing. The problem is in the transmitter. I am not seeing any light on the back of the controller that confirms binding with a series of blinks. The light does not light up at all ,, not even a blink when you turn on the TM . My friends TM had no problem binding with my boat . I just hope they get a new TM out to me before everything freezes here. Not a great start :(

I ordered the programming card so i'll take care of the Lipo setting when It shows up. It states in the manual that all it really does is set the cutoff for Lipos and makes tuning easier. I just wanted to set the boat up so I don't think that plays a part in my issues.

[FrostyNutz]

Update :

They are sending me another transmitter :) He said I could toss the defective one Soooo,,,me being me ,I had to take it apart LOL. The small board that had the light and the binding electronics was not plugged into the main board . Plugged it in, installed new batteries and PRESTO,, I got a flashing light lookin for a boat !!

It's a beautiful day for a maiden voyage :thumbup:

[ron1950]

great frosty....u got me beat id have thrown it away......

[Diesel6401]

Update :

They are sending me another transmitter :) He said I could toss the defective one Soooo,,,me being me ,I had to take it apart LOL. The small board that had the light and the binding electronics was not plugged into the main board . Plugged it in, installed new batteries and PRESTO,, I got a flashing light lookin for a boat !!

It's a beautiful day for a maiden voyage :thumbup:

Good job buddy, :banana:

[Boomer]

Now you will have two good radios. Good job on the detective work!
Boomer

[GP73]

Are you guys in Newfoundland actually running boats??? :eek:

I guess it's not as cold as in Ontario? I hate you! :cursing:

:just-kidding: :hug1:


Update :

They are sending me another transmitter :) He said I could toss the defective one Soooo,,,me being me ,I had to take it apart LOL. The small board that had the light and the binding electronics was not plugged into the main board . Plugged it in, installed new batteries and PRESTO,, I got a flashing light lookin for a boat !!

It's a beautiful day for a maiden voyage :thumbup:

[FrostyNutz]

It was 9* cel and sunny here today :) Too windy to really enjoy the boat but I just had to take her out for a quick blast anyway. MissG got airborn several times fighting whitecaps LOL . Should have taken the camera :doh:

Do you guys charge your Lipo's when you get home and then top them off before the next outing or do you leave them low ?

[GP73]

I used to charge them fully after each run, but that means that you're storing them full charged all night and even more if for whatever reason you don't go out the next day, ideally you want to keep them at 3.8v (~40% charge) per cell during storage.

So now I charge them to storage voltage and top them out just before going out. Less convenient but hopefully better for the batteries. Which charger are you using? Most digital chargers have a storage charge option.

It's -8C here. I don't even try going out. :sad:


It was 9* cel and sunny here today :) Too windy to really enjoy the boat but I just had to take her out for a quick blast anyway. MissG got airborn several times fighting whitecaps LOL . Should have taken the camera :doh:

Do you guys charge your Lipo's when you get home and then top them off before the next outing or do you leave them low ?

[FrostyNutz]

I'm using a new Passport Ultra ,,, not sure if it has the storage charge option . I 'll take a look at the manual tonight .

Thanks for the info on the Lipos :)