Mean Machine Build!

[Kevinlei324]

Hey, I'm relatively new to FE boats. This is the first boat that I'm building completely from the ground up (aside from the purchased hull). I bought all the parts I need from Steve. I'm aiming to make a boat that would go low 50's mph. This is what I have ordered:

Mean Machine 29.5"x 11" Hull
2 Venom Lipos: 4s 35c 5000mah (Specs from Steve's advice)
Swordfish 200
Leopard 4074 2200kv

The configuration I was recommended to run the boat at is 4s2p. I was told that some batteries may not be able to handle such a high discharge (35c), and can cause issues for the ESC.

Does anyone have any advice on a setup?
I have an Octura x637 Prop right now, but was told that the x442 would be a better start.

Any suggestions on the prop and battery setup? I'm worried that the total output of the 4s2p setup with 35c 5000mah batteries would destroy the ESC. Please help! Thanks!

[blackcat26]

A high discharge rate of the batteries is a good thing not a bad thing. It won't hurt at all unless you do not have enough "juice" to supply the esc/motor. Both those props are good starting points in my opinion. The are almost identical in their overall pitch measurement. It sounds like you are on the right track my friend. Welcome to the Forum.

[Kevinlei324]

Thanks for your reassurance! :biggrin:

But here is what I understand from the prop difference:
Although the both props have extremely similar pitches, the x442 is LARGER. Larger props are better for helping the boat get on plane.:sinking-guy:

[Chilli]

Your motor/esc shouldnt draw more than roughly 150 amps unless you over prop and that estimate is conservatively high. Each one of your packs can discharge 175 amps (5.000mAh X 35C) and since you will be running two packs in parallel you can double the discharge capacity of the batteries to 350 amps. Having packs that have more than twice the discharge rate that the motor can draw is a very good thing. Less heat on the all your gear and increased battery life.

Great first boat and nice equipment selection though I'm not too familiar with the Leapord motors. The larger diameter 442 will give you less cavitation at the start. Don't worry about going 50 till you learn how to drive the boat or you'll spend alot of time retrieving a flipped boat. Then you can try larger props checking for heat every minute or two.

[keithbradley]

Your motor/esc shouldnt draw more than roughly 150 amps unless you over prop and that estimate is conservatively high. Each one of your packs can discharge 175 amps (5.000mAh X 35C) and since you will be running two packs in parallel you can double the discharge capacity of the batteries to 350 amps. Having packs that have more than twice the discharge rate that the motor can draw is a very good thing. Less heat on the all your gear and increased battery life.

Great first boat and nice equipment selection though I'm not too familiar with the Leapord motors. The larger diameter 442 will give you less cavitation at the start. Don't worry about going 50 till you learn how to drive the boat or you'll spend alot of time retrieving a flipped boat. Then you can try larger props checking for heat every minute or two.

The Leopard motors are great. This one is very similar in performance to a Neu 1515-1y. I have had both and they performed about equally.

I agree with the above post that 50mph should be a goal for down the road. Starting with a somewhat conservative prop wont get you 50mph+ right off the bat, but it will give you the opportunity to move up slowly and not go up in smoke right away.
Your prop choice will have a large effect on current draw, your batteries just need to be up to the challenge.

Good luck with the build. It sounds like it will be a fun boat.:thumbup:

[Rich]

Hey, I'm relatively new to FE boats. This is the first boat that I'm building completely from the ground up (aside from the purchased hull). I bought all the parts I need from Steve. I'm aiming to make a boat that would go low 50's mph. This is what I have ordered:

Mean Machine 29.5"x 11" Hull
2 Venom Lipos: 4s 35c 5000mah (Specs from Steve's advice)
Swordfish 200
Leopard 4074 2200kv

The configuration I was recommended to run the boat at is 4s2p. I was told that some batteries may not be able to handle such a high discharge (35c), and can cause issues for the ESC.

Does anyone have any advice on a setup?
I have an Octura x637 Prop right now, but was told that the x442 would be a better start.

Any suggestions on the prop and battery setup? I'm worried that the total output of the 4s2p setup with 35c 5000mah batteries would destroy the ESC. Please help! Thanks!

Welcome to the forum! I have the same setup as you and with the leopard 4074 2200kv and 4s2p, I used an X640 prop and hit speeds in the high 40's pulling around 140 peak amps. This would be a great setup for you, I WOULD RECOMMEND adding extra caps such as these http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=etti-e041 this will help cushion the esc from voltage changes just as a precaution. If you want to hit high 50's you could bump this setup to 5s2p BUT ONLY RUN FOR ABOUT 3 MIN MAX AT A TIME, I hit 57 mph on 5s2p, but drawing 180 peak amps, this unfortunately blew my esc. All in all your going to love this hull / Leopard motor setup, very reliable. Have fun! Shoot me a message if you need help/ pics with setting up the COG etc...

[Kevinlei324]

Thanks guys!
I really appreciate your help. I'm a college student and was planning to build this thing when I get home for Thanksgiving with my family...
I'm more excited to build this than ever! :lol:
Thanks again for the lesson!

[Rich]

No problem we are here to help!

[Kevinlei324]

Hey guys! I finished my build last night!:banana:
I'm happy I finished my first boat in one day... Took me about 16 hours though...
I hooked everything up:
4s2p 5000mah 35c each
4074 2200kv Leopard Motor
Swordfish 200 ESC
Marine MR3000 Receiver
s200 Spectrum Servo
DX3E Transmitter
I'm going to start with the x442, and prop up to x642
My CG is 27% forward of the transom

I'm running this setup with an inline rudder... I was so obsessed in finishing my boat, I forgot to take pictures as I was going! :doh:

I greased the flexshaft and all too. I can't wait to test this thing out!
:blah::blah::blah::blah:

PLEASE share some thoughts and tips before I run this boat!!!

[Kevinlei324]

P.S. I owe my sincere gratitude to this amazing forum :bowdown:; My knowledge of boats greatly expanded due to extremely helpful- and most importantly- patient members of this forum. With your help and wealth of knowledge, I felt as if I knew exactly what I was doing (almost) during this build and completed my build with confidence.

:tiphat: Thank you all!
:beerchug: To this forum and all its great members.

[JCAustralia]

Congratulation Kevin

Pics are a must :rockon2:Can't wait to see some pics.:Peace_Sign:

I just completed mine also after 1 year:laugh: Enjoy.

[Rich]

Hey guys! I finished my build last night!:banana:
I'm happy I finished my first boat in one day... Took me about 16 hours though...
I hooked everything up:
4s2p 5000mah 35c each
4074 2200kv Leopard Motor
Swordfish 200 ESC
Marine MR3000 Receiver
s200 Spectrum Servo
DX3E Transmitter
I'm going to start with the x442, and prop up to x642
My CG is 27% forward of the transom

I'm running this setup with an inline rudder... I was so obsessed in finishing my boat, I forgot to take pictures as I was going! :doh:

I greased the flexshaft and all too. I can't wait to test this thing out!
:blah::blah::blah::blah:

PLEASE share some thoughts and tips before I run this boat!!!

Excellent I want to check some think on you boat that helped me out. I would like to see a pic of the rear! I would first try the strut 1/4 inch up from the bottom of the sponson. This will help lower the amp draw. I would also put the strut 1.5 degree up on the prop end and try the C.O.G at 33%. One more thing, CHECK YOUR TEMPS! Run the boat for only a min or two and bring her in. Do you have water cooling on the motor and esc?

[Kevinlei324]

Congratulation Kevin

Pics are a must :rockon2:Can't wait to see some pics.:Peace_Sign:

I just completed mine also after 1 year:laugh: Enjoy.

Great build! let me know how it runs.. I'm going to upload some pics tomorrow... My computer is acting up..

[Kevinlei324]

Excellent I want to check some think on you boat that helped me out. I would like to see a pic of the rear! I would first try the strut 1/4 inch up from the bottom of the sponson. This will help lower the amp draw. I would also put the strut 1.5 degree up on the prop end and try the C.O.G at 33%. One more thing, CHECK YOUR TEMPS! Run the boat for only a min or two and bring her in. Do you have water cooling on the motor and esc?

Makes a lot of sense to raise the strut...
I'll upload the pics tomorrow...
i ran with the x442 today, and the temps were great! Both the ESC and the motor stayed relatively cool.
COG during today's run was at 27%. Next time, I'll try it at 33% :smile:

I ran on rough waters today with 15 - 20 mph winds... It ran about 40 mph!!:rockon:

HOWEVER, the rough waters flipped my boat and tossed it head over heels... Even in a straight pass... The hull was FLOODED. I think it burnt out the ESC... :frusty:

After I emptied the hull, I tried running the boat dry, and the motor stuttered... At first, I thought it was the motor because it got water in it. Even at a brief full throttle, the motor stuttered, then suddenly roared to full power, but BOTH the ESC and motor became warm REALLY fast... When I got home, I attached the motor with my truck ESC and it ran beautifully. But back on the drowned Swordfish, it stuttered, then ran smooth after a couple of seconds. Then...:flashfire:

I feel like such an idiot running the boat on such rough waters...

If I have to get another ESC, which would you guys recommend? I'm looking at either another Swordfish 200, or the Hobbywing 180a... I'm naturally skeptical of the Swordfish although I'm pretty sure it was my fault it went :flashfire:...

:frusty:

[Rich]

Cool I'll keep an eye out for the pics. That sucks it went BOOM! If you put the bottom of the strut up 1/4" from the bottom of the sponsons it does 2 things: 1. less prop in the water = less amps and 2. less prop in the water less lift (from my experiences). I have no idea what esc, since i have went through two, did you use the B.E.C on the esc? I have had bad luck with using one, I use a 6cell nimth pack instead. The etti 150 opto without bec is good, the only reason why mine went were because of my stupidity. I would most def. move the packs forward more since it flipped. I have ran mine in rough water going full throttle at 57mph and haven't flipped it. Thought it took many many flips for me to get the cog right. Don't be afraid to run it a little wet at first then slowly move the packs back.

[Kevinlei324]

Yeah, I used the BEC...
What can go wrong with BEC's? I hear a lot of you guys fearing the BEC as if it's a timed bomb, but have not heard any specific horror stories...

[lectriglide]

Kevin,

Next time your motor gets wet / water in it, "pickle" the motor. Take it out and spray WD-40 in one end and let it run out the other. This will displace all the water so it will not rust.
Also, DO NOT attempt to run it after it gets wet until you have thoroughly dried the esc (could be blown but you never know for sure). Take the shrink wrap off, put it in the sun or blow a fan on it (I did for at least 12 hrs), unwrap your lipos and let them dry out real good too.

[Rich]

Yeah, I used the BEC...
What can go wrong with BEC's? I hear a lot of you guys fearing the BEC as if it's a timed bomb, but have not heard any specific horror stories...

The esc has to supply power to the bec, simply put it adds an additional load on the esc and makes it work harder. Not to mention if the bec goes something else could go with it.

[forescott]

The turnigy/seaking 180 is more than enough esc for your setup. I ran the castle 2200 in a 31-inch cat with a turnigy 180 on 4s lipo. The leopard/castle motors are VERY similar and you'll find that your setup can easily handle larger props. I ended up with am octura M545 which ran very cool and netted me 53mph. Keep that hatch sealed up good!!

[forescott]

I have NEVER had any issues with a BEC failing or causing an esc to burn. Especially on 4s. In many cases guys will push an esc to its limits by overpropping and the BEC can push an esc over the edge. I only run an rx pack if I'm running an esc at its max voltage, or feel like I'm pushing the limits of the esc. Just my 2-cents.

[keithbradley]

Makes a lot of sense to raise the strut...
I'll upload the pics tomorrow...
i ran with the x442 today, and the temps were great! Both the ESC and the motor stayed relatively cool.
COG during today's run was at 27%. Next time, I'll try it at 33% :smile:

I ran on rough waters today with 15 - 20 mph winds... It ran about 40 mph!!:rockon:

HOWEVER, the rough waters flipped my boat and tossed it head over heels... Even in a straight pass... The hull was FLOODED. I think it burnt out the ESC... :frusty:

After I emptied the hull, I tried running the boat dry, and the motor stuttered... At first, I thought it was the motor because it got water in it. Even at a brief full throttle, the motor stuttered, then suddenly roared to full power, but BOTH the ESC and motor became warm REALLY fast... When I got home, I attached the motor with my truck ESC and it ran beautifully. But back on the drowned Swordfish, it stuttered, then ran smooth after a couple of seconds. Then...:flashfire:

I feel like such an idiot running the boat on such rough waters...

If I have to get another ESC, which would you guys recommend? I'm looking at either another Swordfish 200, or the Hobbywing 180a... I'm naturally skeptical of the Swordfish although I'm pretty sure it was my fault it went :flashfire:...

:frusty:

Did it actually puff smoke or just stutter the motor? It is an esc probalem, but if it hasnt made any smoke yet it is likely it can be fixed. A small amount of water can cause a short and do exactly what you are saying. It will cause the motor and esc to get hot fast too, Ive done it before.

If it hasnt actually quit working yet, or it hasnt smoked, get some corrosion x (available at OSE) and after removing the shrink wrap, spray it thoroughly. Let it drip down onto the ground. Then try to spray it off with compressed air or pat it with paper towel. Its ok to have a little bit of corrosion x residue, just dont have it dripping wet.
Then put it in a large ziplock bag full of dry rice, seal it, and let it sit for 2 days. The rice will act as a cheap dessicant and absorb the water from the esc.

I wouldnt be skepticle of teh swordfish. The problem is caused by water and has nothing to do with the esc itself. A short will fry ANY esc, whether it be via water or other means. I have yet to have a swordfish esc fail, except for when it was dunked in the water.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Contact me about getting it repaired.

[Kevinlei324]

Did it actually puff smoke or just stutter the motor? It is an esc probalem, but if it hasnt made any smoke yet it is likely it can be fixed. A small amount of water can cause a short and do exactly what you are saying. It will cause the motor and esc to get hot fast too, Ive done it before.

Both... It's a result of my stupidity... :frusty:
I will contact Steve to see if it is reparable.

[Kevinlei324]

The turnigy/seaking 180 is more than enough esc for your setup. I ran the castle 2200 in a 31-inch cat with a turnigy 180 on 4s lipo. The leopard/castle motors are VERY similar and you'll find that your setup can easily handle larger props. I ended up with am octura M545 which ran very cool and netted me 53mph. Keep that hatch sealed up good!!

O_O
That's good to know! I was going to try the Seaking 180.
I got the x642 prop at home that's smaller in diameter than your m545, but almost the same pitch. I'm waiting to try that out!

[Kevinlei324]

Kevin,

Next time your motor gets wet / water in it, "pickle" the motor. Take it out and spray WD-40 in one end and let it run out the other. This will displace all the water so it will not rust.
Also, DO NOT attempt to run it after it gets wet until you have thoroughly dried the esc (could be blown but you never know for sure). Take the shrink wrap off, put it in the sun or blow a fan on it (I did for at least 12 hrs), unwrap your lipos and let them dry out real good too.

Do I have to take apart the motor for this?
I'll try not to make the same mistake again... :tape:

[lectriglide]

Do I have to take apart the motor for this?
I'll try not to make the same mistake again... :tape:

NO just get it out of the boat.

[carlcisneros]

Kevin;
Once you get the ESC sorted out and back to you or you get a new one,
remove the nuts and washers (if you use them) from your strut and rudder,
put a dab of clear silicon adhesive on each of the bolts on the inside of the hull then
install the nuts and washers again.
This helps in keeping water out of the hull.

also make sure your rudder pushrod seal is not leaking and also the water tubing where ever
it makes contact at the hull surface.

Carl

[Kevinlei324]

Does Corrosion X just prevent corrosion when electronics get wet and displace water or does it actually waterproof electronics?

I know some people made comments on using CorrosionX, and using electrical spray to waterproof electronics, but has anyone tried regular gloss spray?

I know gloss spray is used to waterproof decals, so if it works against being exposed to salt water most of the time, wouldn't it theoretically help waterproof electronics as well? Just a random thought...

What is the most effective way that you guys found in waterproofing your stuff?
:help:

[Brushlessracev]

:sinking-guy:
Does Corrosion X just prevent corrosion when electronics get wet and displace water or does it actually waterproof electronics?

I know some people made comments on using CorrosionX, and using electrical spray to waterproof electronics, but has anyone tried regular gloss spray?

I know gloss spray is used to waterproof decals, so if it works against being exposed to salt water most of the time, wouldn't it theoretically help waterproof electronics as well? Just a random thought...

What is the most effective way that you guys found in waterproofing your stuff?
:help:

I just used epoxy to seal all my electronics. 15 min works good just coat all the holes and boards. i did my eagle tree and it has got wet a few times and still works same with receiver.

[Kevinlei324]

Alright.. It's been a LONG time since I've written here... I will post some pics soon... =P
Honestly, this would probably be the messiest job you guys have ever seen, but it's my first boat... This is the final setup:
ESC: Seaking 180a
Motor: Leopard 4074 2200kv (Drowned in water previously)
Batteries: 4s2p 5000mah Venom 35C
Props: x442 and x642

I ran BOTH the x442 and x642. Didn't really see a real difference in speed... I put a GPS in it, and clocked this thing at 49.6 mph with the x442, and 46.9 with x642, which I'd say is pretty consistent... Also, my MM keeps flipping... NOT because I'm turning at high speeds, but the head of the boat jumps out of the water, AFTER max speed is reached, and it has been traveling at max speed for a couple seconds. Any ideas? My boat is a HEAVY SOB. It sinks halfway into the water, and is REALLY slow until it gets up on plane.

Any words of wisdom? =)

[lectriglide]

Sounds like your COG is too far back. Where is your COG? It should be anywhere from about 8.75" to 9.5". Start it out at 9" and see what happens.

Your props are on the small side, bump them up to x445 / x645 or m445.

[Kevinlei324]

My COG is currently 1/3 of the length of the hull, from the back of the hull.

Apologies for my skepticism, but would 3mm in prop diameter really make that much of a difference?

EDIT: Oops... Turns out my COG isn't 1/3 from the back of the hull... I currently had it at 8" from the back. 1/3 of the hull would be about 10" from the back...

[WINDBUSTER]

Have you try moving the strut from the bottom flush to 1/4" up or 3/16" with a 1.5 angle back of prop tilt down.and try moving the battery forward a little at a time.It help with my set up.

[brushlessfreak]

THAT IS THE EXACT SET-UP I RUN ON MY MEANIE.LEOPARD 4074 2000KV SEAKING 180 ON 2 HYPERION 3S 5000MAH 45C PACKS AND A GRIM 42X55 PROP.I HAVE FOUND THIS TO BE A VERY RELIABLE AND VERY COOL RUNNING HIGH 50s-low 60s SET-UP.GOOD LUCK

[Heaving Earth]

I ran the same setup almost.Only difference is I ran the seaking 180 esc. I started with x442, I ended at m445. My strut is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch above sponson bottoms. Also, I made a subhatch for mine, so I get no water in there.
I've since gone to a Neu 2200kv on 5s with m440. It screams

[highflyerbill]

The mean mach. is a really good handling hull . Aeromarine knows how to build a race ready hull . Get the strut up 1/4 in above the bottom of the sponsons I run the boat around 9 in from rear of sponsons . The boat flys with a m445 but is a little to free for racing . If you want to race it I would go for a X442 and around 9.5 in. from the rear for your C of G .

[LOVE6S]

Hi Freak, are you running those 3s packs in series with that 2000kv motor?

[brushlessfreak]

Yes love6s they are in series ,i average about 8-10 mins of run time while on the throttle pretty hard.i have been running this set-up for a while now with no issues,except for a lost flex and prop because i was so excited to get her on the water i forgot to tighten the collar on the motor shaft.i have found that a 6s set-up in this boat runs a lot more efficient and cooler that the 4 or 5s i had initially tested ,and believe me this thing screams.start with the strut level and your batts up about 7-8 inches from the transom and go from there.good luck let me know how it goes!!

[keithbradley]

Yes love6s they are in series ,i average about 8-10 mins of run time while on the throttle pretty hard.i have been running this set-up for a while now with no issues,except for a lost flex and prop because i was so excited to get her on the water i forgot to tighten the collar on the motor shaft.i have found that a 6s set-up in this boat runs a lot more efficient and cooler that the 4 or 5s i had initially tested ,and believe me this thing screams.start with the strut level and your batts up about 7-8 inches from the transom and go from there.good luck let me know how it goes!!
That's a lot of kv for 6s. I'm not sure why it would run cooler with a higher power draw, that doesn't make sense unless you went down in kg or prop size.
You should be able to get that speed with significantly less kv/voltage, which leads me to believe you have either a terribly inefficient setup, or the kv of the motor is not accurate.

[Heaving Earth]

I don't believe two 3s packs series On Leo 4074 gets 8-10 minutes. Try timing your run

[brushlessfreak]

I think yhe reason its cooler on my 6s packs is because they are good thunder power packs and my 4s and 5s packs are crappy old venom packs with a low discharge rate.i just kinda threw in what i had lying around into that boat and i agree it is probably inefficient any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as i am fairly new to fe boats.thanks

[bigwaveohs]

The mean mach. is a really good handling hull . Aeromarine knows how to build a race ready hull . Get the strut up 1/4 in above the bottom of the sponsons I run the boat around 9 in from rear of sponsons . The boat flys with a m445 but is a little to free for racing . If you want to race it I would go for a X442 and around 9.5 in. from the rear for your C of G .

We're setting up a mean machine with a CoG in the 9 to 9.5-inch range. For the starting strut depth of 1/4" above the sponson bottoms, are you measuring from the bottom of the strut or from the center-line of the stub shaft?
(Leopard 2000 or 2200 kV motor, probably on 4S-haven't decided which motor yet)
Thanks,
Pete/Chris

[dana]

We're setting up a mean machine with a CoG in the 9 to 9.5-inch range. For the starting strut depth of 1/4" above the sponson bottoms, are you measuring from the bottom of the strut or from the center-line of the stub shaft?
(Leopard 2000 or 2200 kV motor, probably on 4S-haven't decided which motor yet)
Thanks,
Pete/Chris
Measure from the bottom of the sponsons to the bottom of the strut.

[John boat]

i am building the same one an looking for a motor mount how did u mount yours i was thinking of taking mine back to aeromarine an haveing rails put in.