Miss Geico-What Works For Me

[airman66285]

There has been a ton of information listed here on OSE regarding Proboat's Miss Geico. I wanted to take the time to show what I have done with my set up so that other Miss Geico owners might be able to gain some possible insight. To preface things a bit, I am a sport user, not a racer. I love speed, but not at the price of small scale nuclear explosions. Reliability and enjoyment are of paramount importance when it comes to my FE rigs. Out of the box, Proboat's Miss Geico is a fantastic boat in terms of build quality, performance and ease of operability. Having said that, some things are left to be desired. Namely, the porpoising. By trial and error, I have found that the porpoising is caused by the stock in-line rudder configuration and nothing else. I tried multiple props, COG adjustments, battery placement and what I found was that an offset rudder configuration eliminates the porpoising 100%. I ordered the Kintec Racing offset bracket and it works, except that it introduces a significant amount of drag which I found to be unacceptable. I ended up altering the Kintec design by removing the bottom portion of the bracket as shown in the photo below. This kept the bracket out of the water line and eliminated the drag. I also installed an aftermarket rudder which is 4" in length versus the stock 3.5" rudder. This change brough back the amazing handling that was somewhat lost when I originally offset the rudder in the first place. The next modification I did was to remove the stock power system. Now don't get wrong, the stock PB 1500 motor and ESC are damn near invinceable at 4S but I wanted more speed without having to tweak the heck out of the stock components. This means I didn't want to blueprint the hull. After consulting with Steve at OSE, I chose the Leopard 4074 2000kV motor and Hobbywing Seaking 180 V2 ESC. This duo, combined with a S/B/P Octura x642 prop nets me speeds in the mid-fifties every run. The temps are luke warm at most and that is considering the fact that I have 5.5mm bullet connectors on everything. I am also not using the BEC and have opted to use a 1600mAH NiMH Rx pack instead. My batteries are (2) Zippy Flightmax 5000mAH 2S 40C packs for a total system power of 4S (14.8v). Based on past perfomance baselines, I decided to stick with my trusty Tactic 2.4GHZ Tx/Rx combo because I loathe antennae's. Differrent strokes for different folks there. This system set-up lets me run in the mid-fifties reliably and safely every time I go out and I always come back with a huge smile on my face because I didn't sink the boat or cause any explosions. Thank you to all of you who have posted here because you have given me a lot of valuable information and further enhanced my love of this incredible pastime! :beerchug:

[johnf]

Nice write up! Few questions..

Did the motor drop in with the stock mount? Any clearance issues with the sub hatch?
What make hatch lock is that? Looks nice.

Also, I like the grease splatter shield you made.

[airman66285]

Nice write up! Few questions..

Did the motor drop in with the stock mount? Any clearance issues with the sub hatch?
What make hatch lock is that? Looks nice.

Also, I like the grease splatter shield you made.

The Leopard 4074 motor bolts up perfectly to the stock MG motor mount. I did remove the blue anodizing so that may have thrown you for a loop. There are no clearance issues at all with the larger motor as long as you route the wires along the side of the can and not on top of it. The motor has multiple mounting configuation holes on the end bell. I made the hatch lock custom with a SS 8/32 machine screw and a threaded T-nut. I removed the barbs from the T-nut and used JB Weld to attach it to the inside of the hull. I then used 2 o-ring seals on the screw itself and just finger tighten it. It simply works fabulous and I no longer need to tape the canopy down.:thumbup1:

[johnf]

Nice work bud. It must have been the color of the motor mount throwin me off like you said.

[airman66285]

Nice work bud. It must have been the color of the motor mount throwin me off like you said.

If you think this boat is a blast on stock power, wait until you go full throttle with the Leopard - I found out real quick that I needed a bigger lake!:rockon2:

[johnf]

Yeah I can imagine. I have a vac-u-pickle that runs in the 50s. The geico would be real fun at that speed!

[Boomer]

Your off set bracket design is the best I've seen. I mentioned in one of my recent posts after testing the Kintec racing rudder off set kit, that I was correclty concerned about the potential for the lower portion of it creating drag. It does.

I really like your design over either the Kintec or using the 2 Octura spaces set up.
The off set is the key to having a smooth ride on these boats. I am wondering if 120A Turnigy ESC would work with this combo..

Thanks for the post. Always good to have good documentation
Boomer

[airman66285]

L
Your off set bracket design is the best I've seen. I mentioned in one of my recent posts after testing the Kintec racing rudder off set kit, that I was correclty concerned about the potential for the lower portion of it creating drag. It does.

I really like your design over either the Kintec or using the 2 Octura spaces set up.
The off set is the key to having a smooth ride on these boats. I am wondering if 120A Turnigy ESC would work with this combo..

Thanks for the post. Always good to have good documentation
Boomer

I would not use the 120A ESC with the 2000kv Leopard. I pull 100 amps with this set up so it is nice to have headroom. My motto is, "over engineer, under utilize".

[teamchrome]

Nice info.. Thanks.
PM sent.

[bigpapa]

do you have a bracket set up such as your 4 sale ?????????

[johnf]

Todd, just modify your kintec bracket. That's what he did. Looks good!

[bigpapa]

john send me sum pics of yours

[johnf]

Mine? I still have the stock rudder setup.

[bigpapa]

thought u modified the kintec

[bigpapa]

oh sorry read it wrong

[teamchrome]

That answers my question on the rudder set-up.

[ron1950]

a very cheep and easy offset is the octura stand offs....about 10 dollars

[tiqueman]

Nice write up Airman. Im going to pick up my Geico in about 3 hours. :banana: I ordered the Octura pieces for mine on Monday.. I suspect they will be here today as well. Im gunna be busy tonight!

[johnf]

Scott, you are gonna love this boat! Incredibly fun for the money!

[tiqueman]

Thats what Im thinking. I drove Rons while he was in town, hes done the offset mod to his. What a great boat. I didnt need it.. but I fell in love w/ it. Now I have 8 cats in my collection...

I think Im going to run this one in the monthly club races

[johnf]

And make a nice hatch for it ;)

[tman52804]

I'm sure Kintec will make a design change once they get wind of the drag with the lower portion of the bracket. Not a big deal to remove anyway. It is a very nice mounting system, and much better than the octura standoffs because you can utilize a plastic shear bolt. The octura standoffs don't allow for a shear bolt without using an easy out.

[Boomer]

Airman
Would you be so kind as to post a picture from the other side of your bracket? I'd like to see how you made it, or how much of the Kintec bracket you removed. I am ready to cut!
Thank you
Boomer

[airman66285]

I'm sure Kintec will make a design change once they get wind of the drag with the lower portion of the bracket. Not a big deal to remove anyway. It is a very nice mounting system, and much better than the octura standoffs because you can utilize a plastic shear bolt. The octura standoffs don't allow for a shear bolt without using an easy out.

The Octura offset brackets still caused too much drag for me. Yes, they are cylindrical in profile (versus the square profile of the Kintec) but they are still in the flow line and cause drag. The Kintec bracket is machined from very hard aluminum - probably 6061 T6 aircraft grade because it was a bitch to grind through with my Dremel.

[airman66285]

Airman
Would you be so kind as to post a picture from the other side of your bracket? I'd like to see how you made it, or how much of the Kintec bracket you removed. I am ready to cut!
Thank you
Boomer

Is this what you were looking for? If not, I could whip up a 3D rendering in AutoCAD really quick as well...

[jac4412]

How long are your run times

[airman66285]

How long are your run times

My run times with this set-up are around 3 minutes at full throttle. This might be an issue for some operators but I have 10 pairs of battery packs for this boat so I get extended run time that way instead.

[airman66285]

Airman
Would you be so kind as to post a picture from the other side of your bracket? I'd like to see how you made it, or how much of the Kintec bracket you removed. I am ready to cut!
Thank you
Boomer

Boomer,

This will probably help you more. The entire bracket is shown as received from Kintec. The red portion is the portion that needs to be removed to eliminate drag and the blue portion is the part that might need to be removed or altered depending on your rudder configuration. I ended up removing the blue portion as well to facilitate the installation of my new 4" rudder blade and hinge.

I hope this clarifies things a bit!

[Diesel6401]

Boomer,

This will probably help you more. The entire bracket is shown as received from Kintec. The red portion is the portion that needs to be removed to eliminate drag and the blue portion is the part that might need to be removed or altered depending on your rudder configuration. I ended up removing the blue portion as well to facilitate the installation of my new 4" rudder blade and hinge.

I hope this clarifies things a bit!

Did strength suffer with the red part being removed?

[Boomer]

Airman
That is just what I needed! Your drawing is perfect. It seems Kintec may have miss drilled one of the holes in the bracket I received, as my rudder is on angle now. I will send him a picture and share with him what we all have concluded about the shape of his bracket.
Thank you
Boomer

[airman66285]

a very cheep and easy offset is the octura stand offs....about 10 dollars

Ron,
I noticed that I only had a 70% reduction in porpoising when I used the Octura brackets. In my opinion, the rudder is still too close to the thrust cone with the Octura set-up. The Kintec bracket off sets the centerline of my rudder blade from the centerline of the thrust cone by 1.6" and I have absolutley no bounce whatsoever. I also modified the fore-to-aft dimension of the bracket so that the rudder is closer to the transom.

[airman66285]

Airman
That is just what I needed! Your drawing is perfect. It seems Kintec may have miss drilled one of the holes in the bracket I received, as my rudder is on angle now. I will send him a picture and share with him what we all have concluded about the shape of his bracket.
Thank you
Boomer

Let me know if Jan needs a 3D CAD file or anything else. I do CAD for a living and I can do it very easily and quickly for him or anyone else.

[airman66285]

Did strength suffer with the red part being removed?

I wouldn't worry about the strength of the bracket after it is modified - it is aircraft grade aluminum and very strong. It is at least 5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly.

[Darin Jordan]

I wouldn't worry about the strength of the bracket after it is modified - it is aircraft grade aluminum and very strong. It is at least 5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly.

If something happens while driving a MG that requires a rudder assembly that is "5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly", I think you have bigger issues to deal with that the strength of the stock hardware... :doh:

[Darin Jordan]

Ron,
In my opinion, the rudder is still too close to the thrust cone with the Octura set-up.


You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

[airman66285]

You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

Um, that's what I did - moved the rudder further away from the propeller and closer to the transom. I was just trying to point out that the length of the Octura brackets put the rudder to close to the prop.

[airman66285]

If something happens while driving a MG that requires a rudder assembly that is "5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly", I think you have bigger issues to deal with that the strength of the stock hardware... :doh:

I didn't mean to knock the stock hardware - I just wanted to communicate the fact that removing material from the Kintec bracket did not make anything weaker for this application.

[Darin Jordan]

I didn't mean to knock the stock hardware - I just wanted to communicate the fact that removing material from the Kintec bracket did not make anything weaker for this application.

Just ribbin' ya, Man... :hug1: :biggrin:

[slowroll]

There were people asking about the hatch kit on his mg .You can get the sv 27 hatch kit from Jan at kintec also when you order youre bracket. Works great and holds down the inner tub cover. , and it comes complete 1 screw with 2 o rings and washer to keep the water out. Works Great!! complete with a machined solid screw base ( E Z install ) and good price too! 10-20 minute job

[ron1950]

hey sounds good to me whatever works for each boat.....i being cheep as hell tryed the octura mounts first lol

[tman52804]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

[Darin Jordan]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

It it's still getting hit by the prop spray, then it's going to cause drag... Looks like the rudder arm/linkage, and the bottom of the bracket, are all still in the spray of the prop.

[Boomer]

Darin
Could you share the actual distance from the transom to the leading edge of your rudder and the length of your spacers?
That would help me in only drilling once.
Thank you
Boomer

[airman66285]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

Yes, the bottom part of the bracket was out of the water once she got on plane but it still hit the water and caused drag when it went over waves on the water and when I went into a corner.

[tman52804]

That's what I figured. It really shouldn't make a big difference, but every little bit helps.

[hobie]

You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

I have a question about all this offset stuff. Mine still bounces even with the offset rudder, when I'm using a 642, when I step up to a (or down, depending on how you see it) to a 447, runs smooth as glass. The question, can the rudder be to close to the transom?? I was thinkin of getting a whole different rudder assmembly, so the the offset rudder and the drive are 2 separate pieces. I just don't want to order the wrong part, by having it to close to the transom.
The rudder I was thinking of is this one, or similar.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-rud-dualpu

[ron1950]

does it lose speed with the 447 at all? if not id just use that one but i am cheep and dont want to pay 50 bucks for a new rudder lol good luck with it

[Jeff Wohlt]

I think it is the rudder design...not about it being inline. Other cats do not have this problem with inline rudders. My hor cat runs great with that set up.

I may try another rudder and see if that helps before I mount it over to the side.

[hobie]

does it lose speed with the 447 at all? if not id just use that one but i am cheep and dont want to pay 50 bucks for a new rudder lol good luck with it

Ron, I'm only trying the smaller one cause when I'm using the 447, the wires get really hot after only a few min of running. The 447 also pushed the boat to 45 mph on 5s, with 642 I'm only getting 38?? I was told it should be faster with the 642. Doesn't seem to be the case. But the wires are way cooler running the smaller prop.

I'm going to move the rudder in and over a bit before I drill any holes.
See if it runs smooth with what I did today. I'm using the octura offsets, so I just drilled two new holes on the rudder clamp, moved it right up as far as I could. And put a small spacer in to move it away from the prop a bit.
I will test it tomorrow and let you know. As long as the snow stays away...

[ron1950]

some will disagree but i found mine likes smaller props with some pitch also...dont know why but it stays cooler also.....bummer about the snow....i though we had it bad cause it finally rained today lol

[tman52804]

Airman,

I just installed my seaking 180 amp esc and the motor wires really make it difficult to get the inner seal and canopy on. Did you quit using the inner (smoke colored) cover/seal?

[hobie]

some will disagree but i found mine likes smaller props with some pitch also...dont know why but it stays cooler also.....bummer about the snow....i though we had it bad cause it finally rained today lol

Lol! You must be way down south. I'm in Vegas today for a course, looking at all the water makes me wish I brought a boat with me!!!! Going home tonight to about 1.5' of snow, and I'm pretty sure the ponds are now solid!!! I'm jealous of you southern boys!!! It's 75 degrees out!! No snow, and I'm wishing I wasn't way up in the north.
I wasn't able to test my new setup, now, if I could find a pool or something. Lol!
Guess I have to wait till spring, or come back south very soon.

[ron1950]

with any luck your basement will flood and u can test it out then...lol...actually all that snow makes u guys appricate the summer more then down here......it was 68 today and i thought it was too cold to go to the lake.....

[blackcat26]

I'm keeping the inline rudder.......I just moved my motors away from the rudder!

[tiqueman]

Offset shafts.... BRILLIANT!

[ron1950]

nice..........

[Boomer]

Blackcat26
How about some more pictures? Like whats under the canopy? It was just a matter of time before someone did this. Very, very nice. This boat was born to be a twin.
Boomer

[blackcat26]

I'm sorry to the OP for this is a partial hi-jack. I simply posted that pic for humor.....Boomer check me out in the boat building section for all the details.

[jac4412]

Yeah I'll ateast to the Kinetc's bracket strength... I was using an industrial grinder and the thing was actually slowing down when I was wearing down the bracket... and heating up the metal till it began to get soft. Very strong aluminum. So I took of the bottom part (the red shown in the 3d image) but left a small section to maintain the 2 screw hole. I'm undecided if I want to take off the blue part yet... since It will be accelerating on a straight line most of the time that part shouldn't cause drag (just a negligible amount). But if I find that it is a problem in my turning I will take it off.

[tiqueman]

Ran a pack w/ my niehbors BJ26 this am. If it wasnt for corners, his BJ definitely would smoke the MG. Im not havin that. Listening to the two boats run, same proboat motors, same batteries, his BJ winds out way more than the MG. I had a GPS in her and she came in at a dissapointing 33.4mph. This was using Turningy 5000mah 40-50C packs. So he left and I began some testing. I removed the x642 that is S/B/DT&C'd and installed a S&B x640. I installed the same rated packs that were peaked a week ago and came in w/ 35.5mph. Progress. The boat seemed to want to bounce a bit more with it. Perhaps I needed to move the strut up a bit. However, instead, I puled it and installed a m445. She threw up a lot more water in the roost, couldnt tell at first as it was going away from me if it was better or worse. Strangely, I heard no "wah wah wah". I turned her around and ran towards the shore. She was gettin it, tru as could be and definitely the best shes run. GPS showed 40.4! :banana: The only other change I made in the boat was last night I installed a T-120 ESC in the event I ran 5S today. For two reasons, 1.) Even though some get away w/ it, I will never run a PB ESC on 5S again as I smoked one doing so about a year ago. 2.) Seeing "Yoda's" amp results :hug1:, I did not want to run a 445 on that esc. Im sure it would be fine, but I need to test to see if I can turn the 445 for 4 minutes for Offshore. :Praying: Im sure the PB esc would came in a bit warm after that. I hope it works out, if not, seems the 640 so far is the way to go.

[LiPo Power]

..so you got 40.4MPH on 4S and M445 with all the rest beeing stock is that right? If so that is amazing for this boat out of the box with just a better prop to do this speed.... Ill take it! :smile:



Ran a pack w/ my niehbors BJ26 this am. If it wasnt for corners, his BJ definitely would smoke the MG. Im not havin that. Listening to the two boats run, same proboat motors, same batteries, his BJ winds out way more than the MG. I had a GPS in her and she came in at a dissapointing 33.4mph. This was using Turningy 5000mah 40-50C packs. So he left and I began some testing. I removed the x642 that is S/B/DT&C'd and installed a S&B x640. I installed the same rated packs that were peaked a week ago and came in w/ 35.5mph. Progress. The boat seemed to want to bounce a bit more with it. Perhaps I needed to move the strut up a bit. However, instead, I puled it and installed a m445. She threw up a lot more water in the roost, couldnt tell at first as it was going away from me if it was better or worse. Strangely, I heard no "wah wah wah". I turned her around and ran towards the shore. She was gettin it, tru as could be and definitely the best shes run. GPS showed 40.4! :banana: The only other change I made in the boat was last night I installed a T-120 ESC in the event I ran 5S today. For two reasons, 1.) Even though some get away w/ it, I will never run a PB ESC on 5S again as I smoked one doing so about a year ago. 2.) Seeing "Yoda's" amp results :hug1:, I did not want to run a 445 on that esc. Im sure it would be fine, but I need to test to see if I can turn the 445 for 4 minutes for Offshore. :Praying: Im sure the PB esc would came in a bit warm after that. I hope it works out, if not, seems the 640 so far is the way to go.

[johnf]

Looks like an esc swap too. Todd (big papa) is running an m445 on his all stock.

[tiqueman]

..so you got 40.4MPH on 4S and M445 with all the rest beeing stock is that right? If so that is amazing for this boat out of the box with just a better prop to do this speed.... Ill take it! :smile:


Looks like an esc swap too. Todd (big papa) is running an m445 on his all stock.

Yup, but the ESC was just for insurance. My neighbor and I ran again. Im now untouchable. :rockon2: BUT........ :cursing: I finally blew it over in a little head wind and heres how she came back in. I knew it would happen, just hoped it wouldnt be that quick. Very dissaponting, to say the least, that Proboat took such time and care to make a cat that handles as well as a V and they skimp out and produce it w/ a crap paper thin PLASTIC hatch. At this rate, one would be out the cost of a hatch on every blow over???? Epoxy hatch is back in the works!

EDIT: And Yes, it was taped down :eek:

[blackcat26]

Dang Scott! Those factory hatches are weaker than puppy piss. That sucks.

[tiqueman]

Dang Scott! Those factory hatches are weaker than puppy piss. That sucks.

Funny thing was, the last thing I said to my neighbor before we walked out to run was, "I need to reinforce this or make my new hatch before next weekends races." :doh:

Heres a shot of the drive. Its basically flat w/ the bottom of the sponsons and you can barely slide a piece of paper under the back of the strut, meaning it has about .5% positive. The pic shows it on a table cloth w/ a pad protector under it so its a little misleading. Better pics soon. :thumbup1:

I was going to shoot some vid tomorrow along w/ an eagle tree but .. sighhhh.. thatll have to wait.

EDIT: And heres an idea of the wind conditions... It was far from choppy, the boat actually handled amazingly and ran flawless in it. At the East end of where we were running, the lake turns and form an inlet, the wind was coming howling thru that area but had no time to stir up the waves yet so it was hardly a ripple, thats where the wind got under it though and tossed it. That area would be up and left in the pic...

[Boomer]

Check with this fellow. He should have new MG Style hatches, that won't break. He told me that if it breaks he'll send you a new on free! That doesn't include stepping on it or running it over.
Boomer


Check out his post at this address #83 http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=18855&page=3


Leave him a message or send him an e-mail. His contact information is:
Richard @
rjteam@aol.com
281-331-5422

[tiqueman]

Boomer, like I said before, Ive made a mold already. I posted that I was making one a few post before you announced Rich's. I just havent layed one up because I cant find the Gieco green color... I spoke to Rich last week.. he is having issues with color as well. Thanks anyways.

If you look at my Avatar, thats my BJ w/ my epoxy hatch I made for it. They are for sale in on the forum. :thumbup:

[Boomer]

Tiqueman,
Your custom BJ hatch is really nifty!There are so many BJs out there, your custom canopy makes it a completely different boat! I have liked the BJ boats, but never got around to buying one. I have seen videos of a few that have been "souped up" and really get with the program. If I ever get one, I'd have get one of your custom hatch covers.

The hatch on my EKOS is very flimzy too. It warps or bows up in the center in different temperatures. I asked the fellows at Venom about it, and the said they are aware and they that use a heat gun to get them to go back to being flat. I haven't flipped any of my boats yet, but know that is just a matter of time before it do, so this hatch issue is a concern.

One would think some one at the source would pick up on the fact that their hatches need to be a bit more durable.

Regarding the color, I think I may have mentioned the way for me to get some Geico green paint, was to take the hatch to my local auto paint store. They have a paint matching service for the public. They provide the amount you need in a can, and will also put some in spray cans. It is not cheap, but so far, it is the only hope I have for getting some touch up paint.
So far, I haven't needed the paint, but I think the next time a go to that part of town, I may get some made.
If enough of MG owner's complained (nicely) to Proboat, they might consider pffering (selling )touch up paint. Couldn't hurt for everyone to shot them an e-mail asking for it.
Boomer

[tiqueman]

Thanks for the compliment Boomer! Amazingly enough, I went to 4 reputable automotive paint shops, consisting of PPG, Onmi, House of Kolor and Sherwin Williams.. NONE of them could match it. They can get the color close, but its not bright when they do. And all of them, the colro match machine saw it as white, not yellow/ green.

Im jonesin here. I finally got it set up and its out of commision. :cursing: Ive still got to prep the mold etc etc to pull a part and just dont have time today.. or probably this week, to get it done. Grrr... I may do something else to get it back on the water :spy:

She's running really light with the cog and strut the way it is. I may push the batteries forward just a bit to try and keep the nose down. For sport running for fun its great how it is, for racing conditions, I think it may be on the edge. Once I can get it back together and find the sweet spot, I will calculate my exact cog and let you all know.

[ron1950]

paint the new hatch fuchia or hot pink lol then u can see it coming and going better lol

[Boomer]

The color as a lot of white in it. Some years ago, the safety industry changed from safety yellow to a color very similar to the Geico green. It was a terrible problem for the safety garment industry and sign people, as it was an unstable color and would fade to white at the first glimpse of the Sun.

I have a 2nd MG hull and canopy which is slated to be painted, as soon as time permits. I have few paint schemes in mind, none involve Geico green! This is a nice looking boat, and with some good graphics will be a real show stopper!

I will shoot down to my paint shop after Turkey day to see if these chaps can come up with a match and will let you guys know how that turns out.
Boomer

[jac4412]

Alrighty so here's what I've got.

I'm running the stock setup, got an x642 on (sharpened and balanced myself), and I offset the rudder, used the kinetc bracket and grinded off the lower bar. I kept the strust stock, still bounced. Lower the bracket... still bounced but showed significant improvment... at the lowered level this thing was amazing to watch getting onto plane, would literally jump out of the water. So I've moved the bracket in between the lowered and stock setting. I've also got the batteries jusssstt hangining off of the back. So I'm going to try this setup and see how it is, but I still haven't been able to get the bounce out. At the lowered settings though the boat seemed faster than it was stock, not sure what it was, I didn't GPS it (but I will next time). Haven't seen a downgrade in performance at all, I've still be able to cut corners like on rails with perfect stability at top speeds.

[Diesel6401]

Ran the MG today with the NC boys. Had a blast and got the bounce to disappear. Im running the stock inline rudder. Strut neutral and dropped so the top of the strut is even with the hardware bracket. I have the stock 45amp esc and a PB 1800kv Stiletto motor. With the batteries moved aft and a x642 still had a small bounce (no where near as bad as stock, but still noticeable), wizard suggested a prop change. I had a x440/3 but the opening wouldn't fit on the drive dog so I borrowed wizards grim 40x52/3 which is damn near identical to the x440/3 but had a wider opening for the drive dog. Threw it in the water temps came down nicely on the telemetry esc reading, bounce went away :buttrock: didn't have the gps in the boat but guess what I honestly don't care what the speed reading is. Boat is running nice, cool, smooth, looks sexy on the water and most importantly A BLAST TO DRIVE! I think I have my winning combo!!! (for now :spy:)

[ron1950]

nice ...i have a stock x440/3 s & balanced but it really got hot on the stiletto....is your de tounged or back cut? i have the same set up in the mg as u do but offset rudder...where did u put the batteries on your good runs and what temps pls...

[Diesel6401]

I don't believe wizard modified his prop at all. I'm almost 100% sure it was just s&b. Well with the x642 after a few minutes esc read 128 and I brought it in. Switched props ran a few more minutes and esc was reading about 115 on the dx3s. The motor I didn't get a reading off of, but was warm to the touch. I have been focused on esc readings because i am only running the 45amp esc

[ron1950]

same here on stock 45a esc ...but has been very cool every run so far....willl try the 440 for a few mins next time out and see...did u see any speed improvement with it over the 642>

[Diesel6401]

same here on stock 45a esc ...but has been very cool every run so far....willl try the 440 for a few mins next time out and see...did u see any speed improvement with it over the 642>

To be honest no not really, without the gps I wouldn't know for a fact. It was not a noticeable difference though.

[jac4412]

I agree with you Dies... My MG was absolutely screaming on the pond... look beautiful. If I didn't have that slight top end bounce it would really set it off, but she really looks gorgeous

[Darin Jordan]

To be honest no not really, without the gps I wouldn't know for a fact. It was not a noticeable difference though.

Just for reference, the stock MG plastic prop, which is essentially a Prather 215, has 2.52" of pitch, and is 1.64" (41.6mm) in diameter.

For comparison, the X642 is 1.65" (42mm) in diameter, with a pitch of 2.638".

In other words, I wouldn't expect a BIG performance difference between the two.

Another point of reference is that the plastic MG prop vs. the Stiletto stainless version of the same prop, tested on my boat to be 2mph in difference... 36mph vs. 38.

If you want to see some decent speed increase, you might want to try the X645, which not only has more pitch (2.835), but also more blade area do to it's larger diameter. This will be pushing the stock ESC, but the motor will take it just fine. Just watch your amp draw and runtime.

[Diesel6401]

Just for reference, the stock MG plastic prop, which is essentially a Prather 215, has 2.52" of pitch, and is 1.64" (41.6mm) in diameter.

For comparison, the X642 is 1.65" (42mm) in diameter, with a pitch of 2.638".

In other words, I wouldn't expect a BIG performance difference between the two.

Another point of reference is that the plastic MG prop vs. the Stiletto stainless version of the same prop, tested on my boat to be 2mph in difference... 36mph vs. 38.

If you want to see some decent speed increase, you might want to try the X645, which not only has more pitch (2.835), but also more blade area do to it's larger diameter. This will be pushing the stock ESC, but the motor will take it just fine. Just watch your amp draw and runtime.

The x642 heated the esc up to about 128F after a few minutes on the stiletto motor/bj esc combo. With the 40x52/3 temps dropped 12 degrees and hop went away. I'm not really after speed in this hull. I just really want decent runtime good temps no hop and a smile. Now that I know what prop worked well if I get that need for speed I could try a moving up in prop. I don't have a x645, but I do have a m445. I could run a few short passes and check and determine if it can handle the extra pitch. I just don't wanna blow my esc.

[jac4412]

All i know is that I can't get the freaking bounce out... it's such a shame because this is such a nice looking boat when she runs, really impressive performance too

[LiPo Power]

Diesel6401 was running it on 40x52/3 prop with great resoults, why dont you try few props and see what works for you? ( M445, x650 )
It works for them so I am sure it's just a quastion of tweeking it.... :thumbup1:






All i know is that I can't get the freaking bounce out... it's such a shame because this is such a nice looking boat when she runs, really impressive performance too

[jac4412]

Dies, did you see a speed difference? I've tried the m445, x642, adjusting the strut and batts, and strutter. Nothing yet. With a lowered strut and x642 I've got a slight bounce, and that's the best I've gotten

[tiqueman]

Strut neutral and dropped so the top of the strut is even with the hardware bracket.

Deisel, Lets get away from this way of strut height explanation and tell it the more accurate and correct way. Boats are coming out w/ brackets mounted at different hights on the transom. 1/8" difference in height can make worlds of difference how the hull performs. Where is your strut while sitting on a flat surface (ie table)

My pic, no bounce at all on a M445

[tiqueman]

And my COG is 7-7/8", measured from the back of the ride surface or sponson, not the transom. Not measured by 1/4 inch off the battery tray or the middle of the "O" in Geico. Because again, everyones can be slightly different. And the slightest cog, stru sdjustment etc in a cat means a lot.

[Diesel6401]

Deisel, Lets get away from this way of strut height explanation and tell it the more accurate and correct way. Boats are coming out w/ brackets mounted at different hights on the transom. 1/8" difference in height can make worlds of difference how the hull performs. Where is your strut while sitting on a flat surface (ie table)

My pic, no bounce at all on a M445


And my COG is 7-7/8", measured from the back of the ride surface or sponson, not the transom. Not measured by 1/4 inch off the battery tray or the middle of the "O" in Geico. Because again, everyones can be slightly different. And the slightest cog, stru sdjustment etc in a cat means a lot.

Yea I can do that. Next time I get to the garage I'll get some numbers. If my information or description confused anyone sorry bout that.

[Diesel6401]

Ok got some measurements today and pics to go with them. Now I can give a detailed breakdown of my setup.

Motor: PB 1800kv, 5.5mm bullets
ESC: Stock MG 45 amp, 5.5mm bullets, bec disabled, timing high, brake disabled
Prop: Grim 40x52/3 S&B
Strut depth: 1 3/16"
CG: 7 3/4"

No bounce, hopefully I can get some video.

[tiqueman]

Ok got some measurements today and pics to go with them. Now I can give a detailed breakdown of my setup.

Motor: PB 1800kv, 5.5mm bullets
ESC: Stock MG 45 amp, 5.5mm bullets, bec disabled, timing high, brake disabled
Prop: Grim 40x52/3 S&B
Strut depth: 1 3/16"
CG: 7 3/4"

No bounce, hopefully I can get some video.

A little more clear, but I still have a question or two... :smile: Where are you measuring your srtut depth from. It seems as if your hull is sitting flat w/ your strut. If I measure mine like that to the bottom of the transom it would be about 3/4". Mine at that measurement is 7/8". If measured from he bottom of the strut bracket, then no es bueno as a 1/16" diffence in mounting from one boat to another will significantly change the outcome. So wheres you 1-3/16 from-to?

Also, hows that 40/52/3 doing on it? Any gps/ amp results Mr Telemetry man?

[Diesel6401]

A little more clear, but I still have a question or two... :smile: Where are you measuring your srtut depth from. It seems as if your hull is sitting flat w/ your strut. If I measure mine like that to the bottom of the transom it would be about 3/4". Mine at that measurement is 7/8". If measured from he bottom of the strut bracket, then no es bueno as a 1/16" diffence in mounting from one boat to another will significantly change the outcome. So wheres you 1-3/16 from-to?

Also, hows that 40/52/3 doing on it? Any gps/ amp results Mr Telemetry man?

Only temp reading which was 114F if I remember correctly on the esc. Motor was fine. If you look at your pic compared to your pic you'll see that my strut is dropped a lot lower then yours. You can't see the top of my strut showing but on yours you can see a decent portion of the strut showing. That's the difference in measurements. I am measureing with the boat on a flat surface resting on the the strut and sponsons just like your pic and I am measureing from the top of the table surface to the bottom of the transom no to the bottom of the strut bracket. You can see 6" rule at the transom. Weather promitting I will get some speed checks. I need to buy a eagle tree as a xmas gift to myself.

[tiqueman]

So how is that working? Heres where Im still confused. If your boat is sitting flat on the table and your strut is resting on the table as to not lift the sponsons off the table, your actually 1/8 higher than I am. My boat set on a table leaves the tails of the sponsons a light 1/8 off the surface. So I ask again, how from the surface of a table to the bottom part of my hull at the transom perp. to where the bracket is mounted, measures less on mine than yours, when Im running deeper. See where Im coming from on this? Is there 2 different hulls out there?

Im by no means going thru all this to doubt you, or to change my set up. Ive found the sweet spot for a M445 aned Im leaving it there for a while. Just isnt making sense to me how Im getting a smaller measurment. If I lined the my strut up comparing to hownmuch you have out the top of the bracket, which is practically none, my hull would be 1/2" easy in the air. HOWEVER, the pics of where our brackets are seem to be w/in 1/16. UNless Im not seeing yours properly on where its location is

[Diesel6401]

That's a lot more then 1/16 of a difference which is where your your depth is going to be a lot different than mine. Plus the angle of the photo's are different which can add to a odd view.

[tiqueman]

:doh: Dale, stop looking at the top of the strut to the bracket. :lol: Im not talking about 1/16 from the bracket to the top of the strut. Yes, mine is significanly more than yours. Im taking about from the bottom of your boats transom where it meets the bottom of the tunnel, to the bottom of the bracket that holds the strut. They look about the same, your boat to mine.

But no matter where anything is mounted on the transom, if the bottom of your strut is on the table, while your sponsons are also on the table, (all three points sitting flat) then YOU are running HIGHER than I am in turn means your distance to the bottom of the hull should be LESS than mine. Right? Unless your picture is just very misleading. Mounts on transom, amount of strut above bracket has nothing to do w/ fixed points. Thats whats baffleing me. Again, looking at the pictures, looking at the strut on the table and the tails of your sponsons are on the table. Not anything else. Those 3 points are the key to setting up one boat to match exact to another... besides cog etc. :thumbup:

[Diesel6401]

No clue man, You been lost me. Like I said maybe angle of the pic is throwing you off. Maybe you can draw a arrow to the spot your talking about. But I'm lost :confused2: all I can say is boat on the bench sitting on the ride points that measurement is what I got. :sorry: if I can't provide further information than that, let's move past this confusion.

You left a burnt smell coming from my brain, but your still my buddy :hug1:

[tiqueman]

No clue man, You been lost me. Like I said maybe angle of the pic is throwing you off. Maybe you can draw a arrow to the spot your talking about. But I'm lost :confused2: all I can say is boat on the bench sitting on the ride points that measurement is what I got. :sorry: if I can't provide further information than that, let's move past this confusion.

You left a burnt smell coming from my brain, but your still my buddy :hug1:

:rofl: :hug1:

[ron1950]

just set my geigo strut flat and level with spnsons scott...will test it out tomorrow with a friend that has his hauling in the vid i posted here

[tiqueman]

Ran mine in a race today and it was fantastic. 4 min offshore heat, 4S2P, Turnigy 120 ESC was 117 degrees. Motor was 102, Batteries were 97&99. I ended up hitting something somewhere around the 3rd or 4th lap (out of roughly 10ish) and launched and barell rolled the boat after coming out of a turn. She landed wet side down and I kept on the throttle, but noticed it handled a bit diffrently. When she came in, the nose cone had slipped out of the strut and the prop tagged something, whether it be the bracket or if I hit something in the water. Very minor ding in one blade that was straightened out in less then 2 minutes. I will have a video of the race tomorrow that another member took.

[tunnelvision]

Hey guys, got a chance to run the Geico for the 3rd time today. Been following this thread for a bit and set it up using some of the suggestions here.

I put the boat on a flat table strut on the edge with the prop(x642) hanging off. I put the strut flat on the table in the neutral position. From the side view propshaft was slightly above the last pads.

Ran it like this with tenergy 25c 5200mah lipos all the way back on the trays. I have the stock inline rudder and had no bounce when going with the wind, into the wind there was a slight bounce. Thanks to everyone for the loads of info on setups. :rockon2:

Not sure when I will be able to test but will be trying out my grim 40x52x3 and a V940.

[tiqueman]

Here it was in Sundays race. I think I may have caught a line off the bouy and got into a chine walk thru the Titans wake when it barrelled. It definitely hit something as I said before with the prop damage and strut knocked back a bit.

4S2P spinning a M445 w/ a Turnigy 120A ESC. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LZGRH6OSis

[LiPo Power]

Great run!!!



Here it was in Sundays race. I think I may have caught a line off the bouy and got into a chine walk thru the Titans wake when it barrelled. It definitely hit something as I said before with the prop damage and strut knocked back a bit.

4S2P spinning a M445 w/ a Turnigy 120A ESC. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LZGRH6OSis

[JackBlack26]

Boat looks awesome!

Does anyone know what the equivalent of the stock prop in metal would be? I want to keep it stock, but with a metal prop so it doesn't break. I dont want to start messing around with amp draw by going any bigger or changing the pitch.

Thanks in advance!
Rafael

[tiqueman]

I cant remember what the stock equivelent is, but running 642s is the most common prop and no one has issues w/ it. Ive been running a 642 in my BJ26 w/ all stock electronics for over a year w/ no issues at all. However, I found the 640 to push the MG a couple mph faster....

[Darin Jordan]

I cant remember what the stock equivelent is, but running 642s is the most common prop and no one has issues w/ it. Ive been running a 642 in my BJ26 w/ all stock electronics for over a year w/ no issues at all. However, I found the 640 to push the MG a couple mph faster....

The prop is essentially a Prather 215. The X642 is similar.

I find it very hard to believe that an X640 would have made the boat go faster. That wasn't my experience when testing. I'd suggest that this had more to do with strut position than prop change.

The X642 is a good prop to run on the stock setup if you want to be ginger with the electronics.

[JackBlack26]

Thanks for the response, Darin. I might just get both.

[tiqueman]

Not the first time Ive had smaller props produce more speed. There was no strut adjustment from one to the other. I spent countelss hours with the 642, adjusting height and strut anle. Threw on a 640 just to see and got 2 mph faster than any of my 642 runs. Didnt seem weird to me at all. Ive got another cat thats 32" and runs best on a 442. Tried 642, 440, 640.. the 442 was the best for that set hull and combination. I went thru every and all strut adjustments w/ every prop on that one. Took months to find the sweet spot/ prop.

[Darin Jordan]

The prop is essentially a Prather 215. The X642 is similar.

I need to correct myself... The X640 is the one that is similar to the Prather 215... both have 2.520" pitch. The X640 is slightly smaller in diameter at 1.575", compared to 1.614 for the Prather.

The X642 is 1.654" in diameter with a pitch of 2.638".

As for the X640 being faster... If you are running good cells, that don't drop a bunch of voltage under load, then with the stock motor setup, I would still find it weird that you would drop pitch AND diameter, and pick up speed with a system that has this much torque and this low amount of RPM. All of my tests show considerable improvements in speed as the pitch goes up. There was a limit, but it's WAY up there.

I would be interested to see EagleTree data from these runs to get a better idea of what is going on. 2mph out of .108" of pitch DECREASE just doesn't make a lot of sense in an otherwise healthy system.

Of course, if you have changed the motor, then all this may make sense... I haven't been following all the threads to know for sure what motor you are running these days.

[ron1950]

we never know what motor or prop u are running either darin lol......secrets secrets secrets ....lol.....what are you up to nowadays?

[tiqueman]

Hey Darin. the only thing Ive changed is the ESC, to a T-120. Unfortunately I do not have Eagle data on those props. Batteries I was using were Turnigy 5000mah 40C. Same batts that push my BJ26 using the same 642 I tried on the MG to 43mph. I took it as maybe it had something to do w/ hull design and not liking 6-series props. Oh well, Im still happy as heck w/ the M445. Ive got her dialed for what I need her to do. I just gotta figure out how to get a little better left turn w/ the offset rudder. She doesnt like that part of the Offshore course too much

[Darin Jordan]

I think the BJ26 is a much smaller package, which doesn't require quite as much power to go fast in a straight line. The sponsons on that boat are FLAT, so lots of lift... doesn't turn for $^@& however... ;)



I just gotta figure out how to get a little better left turn w/ the offset rudder. She doesnt like that part of the Offshore course too much

Try dialing in the travel when turning left. You can also play with the rates to get the same feel as you have to the right. I noticed the same thing, but am able to dial in more travel and a faster rate, so it feels very proportional now.

[Diesel6401]

Looks like Jan has taken notice to the OP mod http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html, good deal on his part!

[ron1950]

i like the ruggedness of the kintec bracket but was too cheep to go that route....the octura off sets are still working great in my mg so far.....well i did strip a screw out of one but it was my own fault (wrong size lol) 4dollars later and i am up and running again.....

[Boomer]

Ron
I have both the Octura and the Kintec Racing bracket. After testing and then discussing the drag the lower section of the 1st generation Kintec created, I tried his 2nd generation bracket with the lower section machined out. I am very happy with the 2nd version and will stay with it. Jan is a good guy and listens to feed back from his customers.

He is making a customer rudder bracket for EKOS which made from machined aluminun and is stronger, mounts the water pick up tubes are in an improved position, not to mention it is better looking too. I am testing one on my EKOS, and if you have an EKOS, it is a worth while addition. :thumbup1:

The Octura extensions work well too, but the bottom spacer does drag at lower speeds, but not to the degree the first Kintec bracket does.

I have a spare MG hull, so I will use the Octura spacers on it. Your not cheap, just a value minded type of guy! :cool:

I like the newest version one of the forum members has come up with that splitls the two factory brackets and moves on to the side for the rudder and the other side stays in place to hold the prop shaft. Very imaginative! :thumbup1:

Boomer

[ron1950]

boomer why not make a twin out of your spare hull? i thought about makeing a twin but id want to make it a rocket ship and throw too much money at it....retirement sucks.....lol.....i am going to do the genius thing and get a 45-50 mph boat out of it.....

[JackBlack26]

I'm new to this boating stuff, so does the offset rudder really make that much of a difference? Or is it more of a "racing" mod?

[Boomer]

I don't think of it as a racing thing. It came about as a result of Darin Jordan suggesting that the prop wash was hitting the rudder and contributing to the bounce associated with some of the Geigos. He made his own rudder off sets, then some other fellows came up with using the Octura Spacers and Jan at Kintec Racing made up a very nice kit in his fab shop. Field reports determined that the lower portion of the Octura spacers and the 1st generation Kintec bracket were creating drag and a very cool rooster tail until the boat was fully on plane.
Thus the 2nd Generation of the Kintec bracket, and the very inovative adaptation of another forum member who moved the rudder over by using 1/2 of the original rudder bracket to support the rudder and the other 1/2 to support the prop shaft.
Stay tuned, this is a progressive forum that has some pretty smart chaps contributing which is very helpful to we newer types to the hobby. (Or to our affliction) All this has to do with making something operate to it's potential, at least that's where I am coming from. These boats are very nice right out of the box, but they can be improved apon with a few tweaks here and there. They will handle better, go faster and therefore are more fun to operate. (Or play with, if the truth be known)
I am not sure of how many of the guys actually race or just chase each other around? Dosen't matter really, as it is all in the name of good fun. Good question though.
Enjoy.
Boomer

[JackBlack26]

Thank you Boomer! This is a very informative and friendly forum and I'm lucky to have found it and be a member.

I started with a Nitro BJ26 back in 07 and played with it on and off when we used to live in North Texas which is filled with huge lakes.

Now having moved back to California where were originally from, people don't take to well to a noisy nitro boat running around in small local ponds usually found in community parks. So I just recently gave FE boast a try and I'm addicted!!! I have even made the decision to sell my fleet of land based R/Cs to fuel the boat addiction further. I made this decision because its easier to go to the park with my wife and 2 boys and let them play while I run my boat rather than going to the track, by myself, and paying to run my trucks. Also the fact that everyone here is friendlier and less "internet competitive" than people on land based RC forums(**coughRCTECHcough,cough**) makes the hobby for me much more enjoyable.

Every day I learn so much here that I don't know if I'm addicted to reading the forum more than I'm addicted to trying to get to the pond to run ether of my 2 boats! Now I've started working on converting my nitro BJ26 to electric:rockon2:

Thanks, everyone, for making this such an enjoyable place to troll and gather information and not just yelling at me and other noobs to "SEARCH" when we ask a question....:hug1:.....:beerchug:

Rafael

[Boomer]

What part of California are you moving to?

[tiqueman]

My opinion would be the offset IS infact a racing thing. The boat would lose a bit of speed in the turns. Offsetting it allowed it to maintain its drive throughout the course. It does not do anything in my opinion to help fix the bounce issue. I did it hoping for it to be gone and it was just as bad. Its all about finding the right trim. If your only going to sport boat, leave it inline as the steering is much much better that way.

And I hear ya on the not so pleasant folks out there, mainly land based RC. I raced cars for a bit. Worst experience I ever had in RC. People were all hush hush, would yell at you if you came anywhere near thier pit area. I had run cars for 10 years before I tried racing them. You couldnt get helpful info out of anyone at all. they would only give you false info so they would win the whole $10.00 Hobby shop cift certificate. Ridiculous. the FE boat world is 180 degrees from the car bone heads. Everone is everyones best friend and they want to see you finish the race, finish it well and will give you any and all info to make your boat as competitive as thier own, so its striclty, who was the better driver that day. makes for tons of excitement. I was very hesitant to join the local club, having that bad "race" experience from running cars. Ive got a 4 acre pond in my backyard I used to run in almost every day. Ive been out on it 4 times in 6 weeks because its now boring to me... racing or not, having more than your boat out there is what makes it exciting.

[JackBlack26]

Oh, we're already here. I grew up in the LA area, moved to San Diego in 96 after meeting my wife there, them to North Texas in 04 when the housing market in Cali was insanely expensive to buy. We waited out the bubble in a nice 3000 sqft house on a golf course community that we bough for 1/4 of what we would of payed in Cali, in Texas just about 40 minutes north of Dallas. We came back to Cali in late 07 and bought this house as a foreclosure in 08 at a reasonable price. We live in Chino CA now but we hope to make it back down to SD some day in the later future. Till then I'll terrorize the local ponds and "lakes" in my area.:thumbup:

[blackcat26]

OK I got bored last sunday and decided to get the Geico single going again. Been several months since I ran her. I had robbed the strut bracket off it to use on the twin and didn't want to wait til May or whenever Horizon gets em back in. I made a bracket out of some alum. angle I had and used a different bracket to offset the rudder. Ran the boat on m645 and m445 with the cc 1512 1800kv on 4s and 150a k-force esc. No bounce detected and the handling seemed pretty good both directions.

[dano1]

Wow wow wow......just got back from some hot lap at the water shed w/m-g and im really happy the way she ran with the rudder, i think i got her set pretty good....she was nose up about 3/4 on slight chop waters and getting slight air throwing a nice little rooster tail and in smooth she just was a blast to ripp, its seems to me she picked up a couple mph's and handled great in turns.....great way to end the day.........now if my prop would just get here!!!!!!!! I set the rudder up about 1/16th and have strut tube down flush with mount bracket....no more wahh wahh wahh for me, thanks so much guys for all the tips and comments, just wish there was some people i could run with around these parts now....im hooked big time!!!!!

Dano

[dano1]

THIS IS MY SET UP ON M/G. THOUGHT ID SHARE

DANO:rockon2:

[ron1950]

nice now if u could just keep the ice off the pond lol

[dano1]

Ron,

went out and figured there be ice on edges again but water was clear.....my plans tomorrow are going and running again as long as weather holds out, were suppost to get some snow/ mix but i dunno if its gonna happen, no ice at this time here....may try to shoot a vid saturday if i can talk a buddy to go with me, really pleased with the boat, just still waited on the prop, been 6 days so far.

[dano1]

Oh,

how the heck do ya get your boat pics by your posts??

[Boomer]

Dano,
You need to go to the upper left hand corner of the page and you will see.
Welcome, Dano.
You last visited: Today at 03:31 PM
Private Messages: Unread 0, Total 3.

Select private messages, look to the left hand side of that page where it shows the control panel. Find the heading to "edit avatar", select it and the rest is about the same as posting pictures in a thread.

You will be able to create your own albums, as well and provide any general info about yourself as you feel comfortable listing and you can add friends to your group. Kind of a mini facebook kind of thing.


Boomer:smile:

[Big Lebowski]

where did you order that 4"rudder from? could you provide me the part number for the Kintec racing offset brkt? not sure what your talking about removing the bottom portion brkt. Is there anyway you could mark on the picture what you did to the kintec brkt or show me what you did in a video?

[tiqueman]

Not sure what pics, rudder or even who your asking, but heres the version 2 bracket that the bottom is already cut out of. top of this page http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_Upgrades.html
And the only rudders Ive seen on the last couple pages are the stock Proboat Miss Geico rudders.

[Big Lebowski]

There has been a ton of information listed here on OSE regarding Proboat's Miss Geico. I wanted to take the time to show what I have done with my set up so that other Miss Geico owners might be able to gain some possible insight. To preface things a bit, I am a sport user, not a racer. I love speed, but not at the price of small scale nuclear explosions. Reliability and enjoyment are of paramount importance when it comes to my FE rigs. Out of the box, Proboat's Miss Geico is a fantastic boat in terms of build quality, performance and ease of operability. Having said that, some things are left to be desired. Namely, the porpoising. By trial and error, I have found that the porpoising is caused by the stock in-line rudder configuration and nothing else. I tried multiple props, COG adjustments, battery placement and what I found was that an offset rudder configuration eliminates the porpoising 100%. I ordered the Kintec Racing offset bracket and it works, except that it introduces a significant amount of drag which I found to be unacceptable. I ended up altering the Kintec design by removing the bottom portion of the bracket as shown in the photo below. This kept the bracket out of the water line and eliminated the drag. I also installed an aftermarket rudder which is 4" in length versus the stock 3.5" rudder. This change brough back the amazing handling that was somewhat lost when I originally offset the rudder in the first place. The next modification I did was to remove the stock power system. Now don't get wrong, the stock PB 1500 motor and ESC are damn near invinceable at 4S but I wanted more speed without having to tweak the heck out of the stock components. This means I didn't want to blueprint the hull. After consulting with Steve at OSE, I chose the Leopard 4074 2000kV motor and Hobbywing Seaking 180 V2 ESC. This duo, combined with a S/B/P Octura x642 prop nets me speeds in the mid-fifties every run. The temps are luke warm at most and that is considering the fact that I have 5.5mm bullet connectors on everything. I am also not using the BEC and have opted to use a 1600mAH NiMH Rx pack instead. My batteries are (2) Zippy Flightmax 5000mAH 2S 40C packs for a total system power of 4S (14.8v). Based on past perfomance baselines, I decided to stick with my trusty Tactic 2.4GHZ Tx/Rx combo because I loathe antennae's. Differrent strokes for different folks there. This system set-up lets me run in the mid-fifties reliably and safely every time I go out and I always come back with a huge smile on my face because I didn't sink the boat or cause any explosions. Thank you to all of you who have posted here because you have given me a lot of valuable information and further enhanced my love of this incredible pastime! :beerchug:

Did you have to change the flex shaft to a drive shaft for this setup?

[ecoovert]

Big Lebowski, I think the information you posted will be helpful for others with this boat. I agree with your insight. I ended up looking at the Kintec offset rudder system and made my own system as I saw the problem with drag by looking at the Kintec design. Mine works great and the boat handles great even at over 80mph. Boy, this boat does have a lot of potential.

[TWCFI]

Man I would love to see the video of a MG going 80mph! Where in NC are you?

[karlhh]

7556875569
This is my setup leo 4074 2000kv fits perfect supported the back and used stock mount on front.running it on 4s dont no what prop is best yet.

[ecoovert]

Man I would love to see the video of a MG going 80mph! Where in NC are you?

I live in Lenoir, NC and here is a video I had my nephew shoot of my boat with my camera. Sorry he didn't know how to use the zoom on the camera so the boat is far away making it appear not to be going as fast as a closer shot would have. The batteries died just before I was going to give it full throttle in this video. I probably got up to 80% throttle here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu3FDsfhHJ4

[TWCFI]

That boat looks like it is hooked up really well and very fast. Thank you for the video. :)

[ecoovert]

Any time TWCFI, I need to get out again and have a better video of the boat where it's not so far away. I also need to hook up my micro cam to her for an on-board ride. Best I can figure, all I need is a cat (6) or better SD card as my micro cam only shoots in high def. You can see some of the videos I shot with the on-board camera and they skip. I'm not happy with that. Those videos were shot with a smaller motor and smaller prop. With even more speed I expect the skipping video issue will be even worse. The SD card I was using doesn't indicate speed although it's an HC card. I think all I need is a faster SD card. If you shoot HD videos have you ever had this experience?

[TWCFI]

I shoot a bunch of HD videos, but use a GoPro and a Contour camera. I primarily use it on a plane that I teach in but have no issues with skipping. I have used it on an 1/5th scale off road truck with no skipping either.

The Countor GPS camera will provide map overlay and gps readouts with the software downloaded from their website. Works really well. The camera isn't water proof but they do sell a case for it that is. If you are happy with your camera I would first try a faster card.

I hope some of this helps.

Bob

[ecoovert]

I shoot a bunch of HD videos, but use a GoPro and a Contour camera. I primarily use it on a plane that I teach in but have no issues with skipping. I have used it on an 1/5th scale off road truck with no skipping either.

The Countor GPS camera will provide map overlay and gps readouts with the software downloaded from their website. Works really well. The camera isn't water proof but they do sell a case for it that is. If you are happy with your camera I would first try a faster card.

I hope some of this helps.

Bob

I think I'll try a faster card first as it costs less to try. I do think the card is most likely the issue.

Thanks for the help Bob, :biggrin:

Eric