Predator rigger hydro build

[Avanti]

Hey guys with the help of a bunch of internetters I got the idea and plans to build this boat. I am using 1/8 balsa and 1/32 light ply. My motor mount is made from aluminum. I will post info and pics as I progress with the build. So far I have the majority of the tub done.

http://www.equipoolea.com/web/planos/Predator%20Outrigger.pdf

Power will start with a trinity p2k stock motor with a novak m5 esc and a 6 cell battery. After I see how that does, the stock sv27 motor and esc will go in the boat for testing.

Running gear is still up in the air and I'm open to suggestions.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0516.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0515.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0512.jpg

[Avanti]

all the wood parts were cut out with an exacto knife. After the ply was glued on the tub sides were clamped together and sanded so they are the same. front sponson insides were also snaded even. I will be using carbon fiber rod to join the sponsons to the tub.

aluminum motor mount was cut out with assorted dremel bits and a drill.

[ace028]

Looks nice, are those holes in the motor mount big enough for your wires to pass through with the connectors soldered on? Are you using elmers wood glue? If so, you might want to try some CA glue from the hobby store, its about $10 a bottle but it glues wood fast, kind of like super glue on your fingers lol. If you buy the kicker for it its even faster, kind of nice so you don't have to hold what you are gluing forever till it drys. Keep up the work!!

[Avanti]

yes I'm using wood glue. (I have ca also) after the bottom of the tub is on I will be filleting and resin coating the entire rig inside and out. The holes are big enough for radio gear and I will be adding more holes for weight reduction, since the aluminum is a lot stronger than balsa. Thanks for the input, keep it coming

JL

[kck741]

I was thinking about buying some clamps like that,do they work good for you

[Avanti]

Yeah they are great, I just bought two more mini bar clamps at Target today.
The spring clamps are good for holding the two pieces together so you can sand them even. (the ones in the picture are from Lowes)

[kck741]

Awesome boat is looking nice,are you going to paint it or leave it natural!

[Avanti]

The boat will be custom painted when the build is done. I got the bottom of the tub on today and some more pieces cut out for the rear sponsons. I'll post up more pics tonight.

[Avanti]

The boat is really starting to come together now.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0526.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0531.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0533.jpg

[ace028]

lookin nice!!! I may have to build one too, it will be added to my list of projects to start lol. Can't wait to hear how it runs!

[Avanti]

rear sponsons are on and need some finish work. front sponsons are ready to secure.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0535.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0534.jpg

[dirtysouth31]

for the love of god man put some foam in those sponsons:olleyes:

[andym]

The rear sponsons are meant to stop the stern dropping and I believe they can be as deep as the top of the strut. where yours are would not achieve much, it will still drop in turns and over wakes etc and is one of the causes for flipping on rougher water and slowing dramaticaly in turns. Anyway this is what I understand, hope it helps. Cheers

[Avanti]

Thanks andy, This is my first build so it will be a learning process. my location should not affect a SAW type run, which is kind of what I'm setting it up for right now. I'm hoping to have it water ready by 12-8 but I need some extra money to get the running gear. I have everything else I need.

Any help, thoughts, criticism, whatever, is always appreciated

regards, JL

[zrchobbies]

did you design that yourself??

[andym]

JL, that in no way was ment as criticism, just trying to help .I myself are just learning the art of these speed machines. Once you get it running riggers are the formula 1 off rc boats.

[dirtysouth31]

that critism part was meant for me..since all i have is riggers i think i would know a thing or two on the subject..put foam in the sponsons..when a rigger is on plane the tub is out of the water.so your placement of rear sponson is not only useless but will look rather funny when its running..rear sponsons are just that "rear sponsons" they do the same thing that front ones do..just my thing or two

[Avanti]

for the love of god man put some foam in those sponsons:olleyes: Explain to me why. I was thinking I did not need it. I was just going to make a litte block to hold the inside of the rod. to me the foam is just extra strength that I doon't feel I need at this point and extra weight that I don't want. Please let me know if there is a reason for the foam, as I am new to hydros.

did you design that yourself?? No it is a predator the plans are online and can be downloaded for free. My next rigger will be my own design but I needed a sarting point to see what it was all about.

JL, that in no way was ment as criticism, just trying to help .I myself are just learning the art of these speed machines. Once you get it running riggers are the formula 1 off rc boats.that was ment for everyone I am here to learn.
that critism part was meant for me..since all i have is riggers i think i would know a thing or two on the subject..put foam in the sponsons..when a rigger is on plane the tub is out of the water.so your placement of rear sponson is not only useless but will look rather funny when its running..rear sponsons are just that "rear sponsons" they do the same thing that front ones do..just my thing or two thanks I will keep that in mind for boat number two. feel free to help me out with any other tips you might be willing to share.


Regards, JL

[ace028]

The foam dosen't weigh enough to matter, it is just a precaution in case your boat takes on water and dosen't sink, also adds strength and makes your sponsons really tough.

[Avanti]

I could use a little advise on running gear. I was thinking this
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6str-130a
any thoughts guys??

Regards, JL

[andym]

Mate go for the solinger hydro system. The best I can find

[Avanti]

I was thinking inline for SAW. do you think the offset would cause a problem trying to squeeze all the speed out of this set up on a buget?

[Avanti]

ok guys please advise me on a budget minded running gear set up for my rigger
I will be starting out with a 6 cell brushed setup and moving to a 8 cell brushless setup and would like to buy only one set of running gear so I need something that will handle the brushless setup.

I will need everything from the motor coupler to the rudder

[ace028]

I think the solinger set up is the best bet, I'm not sure about the straight line part, but for its price you can't beat the quality, I'm sure its plenty strong too. I think some of the saw riggers that I seen (not in real life) but on the net have a off set rudder.


Keep in mind that your brushed motor coupler is going to be a different size I think than a brushless motor.

[Avanti]

yeah I figured I would need two couplers

I guess I will go for the solinger stuff but it will have to be after Christmas

[Avanti]

what size couplers would I need for this set up? one for the std brushed motor 540 size and one for the brushless motor.

Also what size shaft would you recommend? there are two to choose from.

I can't wait till after the holiday I want to get this boat wet.

edit: found what I was looking for
std brushed motor has 1/8" shaft
std brushless motor has 5mm shaft

I still would like to know what size flex cable you guys would recommend .130 or .150
Does anyone know the stock SV27 flex cable size?

[Rex R]

SV uses a 0.15" flex. as for what size for your rigger...kinda depends on how big a motor(bl) you might use. using feigao's as an example you can prolly use a 0.13" flex for anything smaller than an 'xl' motor

[Avanti]

Thanks Rex, the .13 should provide a bit less drag too huh?
I plan on running the stock SV27 motor in it to start out than maybe the ammo 2300.
nothing to crazy

[Avanti]

Well I got motivated last night & tonight to get some more work done on the rigger. I got the front sponsons foam filled and assembled. I took the rear sponsons off, got the front mocked up for mounting. Made the turn fin and spare then mocked them up on the boat. All that it left is body work, hardware and paint. I'm gong with the soliger hydro with a .150 cable (trying to keep all my boats somewhat alike hardware wise).
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0587.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0586.jpg
front nose peice is done now too
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a211/J_Lightning/DSCF0582.jpg

[tylerm]

Nice looking turn fin bracket man, how thick is it?
Turn fin looks good too, alloy i presume?

Tyler.

[Stealth Assassin]

If you are coating the hull with epoxy there Is a coating epoxy that works better than regular resin epoxy. It comes out clear, not amber and lays down smooth without streeks. :tiphat:

[Avanti]

tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.

stealth -- thanks for the tip, but I'm not to worried about it on this boat since it's my first. I will be sanding it down and painting it so the amber is cool. I will definitely get the other stuff for the next boat though, since I hate sanding.

[Stealth Assassin]

tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.

stealth -- thanks for the tip, but I'm not to worried about it on this boat since it's my first. I will be sanding it down and painting it so the amber is cool. I will definitely get the other stuff for the next boat though, since I hate sanding.

Hey that's cool. It's just that If you hate sanding the the regular resin epoxy makes It very hard to sand all the brush stokes out. By the time you sand those out there Is not much If any epoxy left on the surface.

Just trying to help.

Looks like a nice build!

Derrick

[lonewolf]

sooooooooooo Derrik whats the fix on that??????????? gotta learn something everyday or im wasting my time ty Dave

[Stealth Assassin]

sooooooooooo Derrik whats the fix on that??????????? gotta learn something everyday or im wasting my time ty Dave

Sand all the resin down and use the coating epoxy.

[Stealth Assassin]

Sand all the resin down and use the coating epoxy.


Or better yet... Use a sanding sealer on the wood before the coating. :buttrock:

[tylerm]

tylerm -- the spar is 1/8 aluminum and the fin is about 1/16 alluminum they would be a bit nicer if I had a belt sander or a band saw, but they'll do.

I understand what you mean about having a bandsaw or scrollsaw, but you'd be surprised how well a pink grinding stone thingy on your dremel works for cleaning your fin up and sharpening it(even with stainless fins).
Looking good.

Tyler.

[tylerm]

I guess I will go for the solinger stuff but it will have to be after Christmas

I understand what you mean about the price, i'm lucky i have a friend who makes blade rudders and the like for me at unbelieveable prices.
For something a bit less expensive, i would get this when it comes back in stock.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6str-130da
Unfortunately you can only get it with .130 cable, but it should handle the motors you got planned, if not get a wire drive:laugh: :tongue_smilie:

Tyler.

[Fluid]

Do not use an inline strut/rudder assembly for a rigger. Actually, that setup is not very good for any application other than offshore racing when you need to turn well in both directions. For your application I'd recommend either the Solinger or the Crumbgrabber stuff (the latter from Fullers). These offset assemblies are great - light, strong, good looking. For speed, mount the rudder on the right side and offset the strut by 3/16" to the right. And 0.130" cable is plenty for 8 cells/3S.

Rear sponsons seem to be faddish - one year they are the rage, the next they are poison. The fact is that the fastest P rigger in the world runs a single large rear sponson for the reason stated in a previous post - to keep the attitude of the rigger neutral so it does not fly off the water. For a boat that will not be going 114 mph they are less important, and I use them only on riggers that are underpowered. The world's fastest Feigao-powered P Rigger did not use them. ;)



.

[Avanti]

thanks for all the info guys

[fastbaltek]

hey, im starting a hydro build and i was wondering if there would be problems with wood rotting or is there a special coat of something your suppose to put on the wood?

[Stealth Assassin]

Use a few coats of clear coating epoxy. :buttrock:

[Eyekandyboats]

whens this going to be done?

[Avanti]

I am waiting on funds now for the hardware. I got robbed before christmas and it set me back a bit (I'm out 1700 loss and damages)

hopefully I will have it on the water in FEB.

[Avanti]

how do you guys think an EP1 outboard would work on this boat??

just an idea of mine to get this thing in the water if you guys with rigger experience think it would be worth a go.

[fastbaltek]

Whats the exact length of this rigger?

Exact length of the tub top?

[Avanti]

Whats the exact length of this rigger?

Exact length of the tub top?

tub 20" check the pics on page one

[mickvk]

So how did your rig end up running this summer?

[Avanti]

it is still sitting in parts. I will finish it some day, but I have not been doing much R/Cing lately