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View Full Version : Crack in Transom, Both hulls......



stringfly
09-13-2010, 08:53 AM
My friend and I both got SuperVeeR's about a month and a half ago. They have about 20 to 30 runs on them, mostly on Nimh's so not over speeded. Both have outside transome cracks on them. The crack runs across the full transome, centering on the bottom strut bolt. No inside breech yet but has anyone else seen this ? Looks like a molding layup problem to me. Any suggestions ?? And hey Aquacraft, how about a new hull ?????:huh:

Stringfly <>++++

Insaniac
09-13-2010, 11:53 AM
Looks like they cracked along the seam between the deck and hull. Isn't there a piece of ply on the inside of the transom? That should hold it together...

Steven Vaccaro
09-13-2010, 12:26 PM
Is it just the paint? I havent seen it happen on the transom, but mostly the port or starboard side walls.

Brushless01
09-13-2010, 12:29 PM
Most of the supervee hulls do this nothing to really worry about.

Diesel6401
09-13-2010, 09:24 PM
I had a crack go all the way in the same location. I was running and the rudder hit some debris and the rudder bracket tried to pull all the way through the transom which resulted in a crack through the transom. I wasn't using a break-away bolt on the on the rudder so at wot hitting the debris all the stess pulled out on the lower bracket bolt . I repaired the crack and starting using a nylon bolt problem solved.

stringfly
09-14-2010, 10:54 AM
Thanks guys,,,, yes it does just look like the gel coat paint top layer on on the outside.
Not sure about plywood on the inside, all you can see is fiber glass. May be one under that but not sure. The bolt plates are against fiberglass. Don't no of any hits I have had though. Rudder and turn fins are sharpened and no hit indications on them at all. I quess I will just try to run some thin CA in it and keep a eye on it. Does OSE offer the nylon bolts just in case ????

Stringfly <>+++++

Grimracer
09-14-2010, 04:06 PM
If the boat has plywood on the transom its not the "R" version.

But it sounds like yours is the R

Rock and Roll

Grim

longballlumber
09-14-2010, 04:30 PM
Does OSE offer the nylon bolts just in case ????

Stringfly <>+++++

Take a quick trip to your local hardware store, they will have nylon bolts.

Later,
Mike

stringfly
09-15-2010, 01:46 PM
Mine is the 27R and no ply in the transome that is visible. If I push the strut up or down a slight amount the crack will open and close....not good. I did run thin ca down the crack and let it dry throughly. It does not open now when I tweek the strut but doubt this is going to last very long. Guess we will see. Aquacraft needs to do better on this hull for the cost. Other than this though I still like the boat and the way it runs.

Stringfly <>+++++

driftah
09-15-2010, 02:46 PM
strip it and reinforce everything with fiberglass except the top deck area on the inside it will hadle and "crash" better.I relayed mine up and it is way stronger now on the sides and transom where it is weak at the seam.I used a bondo 13 dollar fiberglass kit..done.search the sv section here for other ideas too

tunnelvision
09-15-2010, 06:25 PM
Newbie here. Don't mean to hijack this thread but I recently purchased a 27R and have about 6 runs on it. The crack started to form when I ran it today. There was a bit of chop but I wasn't running all out, just cruising. I love the boat. Its quick and easy to maintain but its frustrating spending the money and have something like this happen so quick. Basically, the transom can't take the chop and there was a design flaw there obviously. Oh well, will just have to reinforce it. Can I get something on this site to fix it?

Grimracer
09-15-2010, 09:27 PM
SV pilots

The SVR has a bulker laminate on the transom now and not the plywood. The plywood would shrink and swell between long rests away from the pond causing leaking and what not...

We started testing with a bulker..

sorry some dont like it..

... if this boat was shoe box.. it would do the same thing.. you would just never see it..

Lets race!

Grim

Rumdog
09-15-2010, 09:49 PM
What is the bulker? Seems it isn't working out so well.

z400
09-15-2010, 11:28 PM
What is the bulker? Seems it isn't working out so well.

I think what he meant ot say was the transom is bulkier as in it is more thicker.


That crack is right along where the top half of the hull meets the bottom half.
Come on guys, everyone who has owned a SV in the past KNOWS that these boats are prone to cracked in this area.


Here is a terrific shot of my old boat.
See the crack along the side?
Maybe its not on the transom, but this is exactly where the top half
of the hull meets the bottom half.
There is a seam that runs all the way around the boat.

You know this!!


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b265/ride_wake_210/Boats/IMG_0626.jpg

Grimracer
09-16-2010, 10:00 AM
Thanks Z400 for chiming in..

Still got that wicked 1/8 mile monster?

The transom now uses a bulker laminate and not the plywood..

No need to get into details but its a thickener/strengthener that does not shrink and swell from wet to dry.

Past that point its still from the older SV molds so the seam line did not change.

Rocket and roll!

Grim

z400
09-16-2010, 03:08 PM
Thanks Z400 for chiming in..

Still got that wicked 1/8 mile monster?



Grim

Yup, still got it!
Running low 5.90's high 5.80's now.
Weren't you going to be restoring a Mustang sometime?
Still living out there in Beringer? I havent been out that way in quite a while.
Miss running out there at the ponds.


Ah back on topic, the cracks on my SV, it earned those cracks.
I ut that boat through alot of abuse before i sold it.
And it was still a very solid 55-62mph boat.

stringfly
09-17-2010, 11:51 PM
Well, if mine cracks along the side seams like that one very soon I will be very dissapointed in this "Aquacraft hull." 20 to 30 mild runs should NOT start a hull cracking! I will have to rocket and roll to another Mfg. next time for sure. :crying:

Stringfly <>++++++

Grimracer
09-18-2010, 06:38 PM
Are you saying yours is not cracked yet.. but. you are already threatening to change MFGs if and when yours might..

Hum...

Good enough then there are lots of good boats out there to chose from

Rocket......and ROLL............... :rockon2:

Grim

Grimracer
09-18-2010, 06:39 PM
O yea.. I fly HPR.. the reasion for the ROCKET in Rocket and Roll!

GR

z400
09-18-2010, 07:47 PM
lol Mike

stringfly
09-18-2010, 10:47 PM
Read the thread. My transom is cracked and my friends is cracked after less than 30 runs. NOT GOOD !!!! I will be running my Miss Geico tomorrow.

Stringfly

z400
09-18-2010, 11:00 PM
I guess these boats are supposed to be bullet proof and built to last forever.

stringfly
09-19-2010, 12:48 AM
No.... but less than 30 runs on Nimh's ????? The product should not do this. At 329.00.... ouch. :confused2:

Stringfly <>+++++

z400
09-19-2010, 12:56 AM
Mike, you need to start making these boats out of concrete.

Rumdog
09-19-2010, 01:38 AM
Not bullet proof. But, they are apparently cracking for no reason, there is not even a transom doubler. It should be the most rigid part of the boat. ALL the hardware is mounted there. I don't think it's acceptable. Neither should you. The hull had enough problems with cracking seams before. Now they hiked the price , and the hull is even weaker. Why are you backing this?

Rumdog
09-19-2010, 01:42 AM
It's been said the doubler (wood) weakens when wet. If built correctly it should be epoxy sealed wood. Therefore it shouldn't be bothered by water. Also, if taping the hull, which should be done on all FE boats, you shouldn't be getting enough water inside to be effecting wood transom doublers. Can you think of another high quality mono with no transom doubler?

Rumdog
09-19-2010, 02:01 AM
Let me just say this. Is there a reason that someone should not be upset with a hull that is cracking for no good reason?

liquidgenesis
09-19-2010, 04:53 AM
Mine cracked after the first run... really not that big a deal. the problem for me was the hole at the nose that was covered up by the gel coat. The gel coat started chipping off and by the 4th run, the hole was big enough and started leaking water into the hull. That's when I called it quits for the season and rebuild for the winter. But by next spring, it will be stupid fast and heavily reinforced.

stringfly
09-19-2010, 07:47 AM
Thanks for the comments Rumdog. If it had been my hull only..... well I would have just thought, stuff happens, that's the nature of R/C..... but both our hulls, that's a design problem. A third friend also bought one with us but have not checked with him yet. (that's 3 SuperVee sales!) We got these within a week of each other and have run them together almost every weekend. My friend has put in thin aluminum plates on the inside of his and he hopes that should stabilize it. I will probably be doing it to mine. I still like the boat, fun to run, fast with lots of action in it. Over all everything else has worked great.
I am new to FE boats but have been doing R/C since 1970. I do have other boats now and will be running the SuperVee less but was wanting others opinions on this and suggestions. Thanks for all comments.

Stringfly <>+++++

Grimracer
09-21-2010, 07:36 AM
Its not that ply can not be made strong enough.. it can.. its not that ply can not be sealed.. Because.. well we know it can too!

What I do know however is plywood will shrink and swell over running and storage time and "Might" cause the hardware to come loose.. Letting water in..

I race allot of wood boats.. each year its best to reset the hardware "OR" risk water in the water tight areas.

:buttrock:

The trasom on the SVR has a bulker lamianate.. it does not shrink or swell.. maybe I said this before!:banana:

Grim

Tony Vega
09-21-2010, 10:38 AM
Grim - Where can I buy a replacement hull for a 27R? I get no response from Steve here at Offshore.

Rumdog
09-21-2010, 02:36 PM
Hull fractures are a little harder to deal with than loose screws. Weak hulls seems to be the downfall of Aquacraft boats. The bulker laminate isn't working.

Grimracer
09-23-2010, 01:07 PM
But the deck/hull joints are cracking along the transom...why not address the problem for these new boaters?:confused:

Who said we are not working on it?.. or what makes you think we are not looking into it..

Im just giving you the basic facts of what caused the change.

Grim

Steven Vaccaro
09-23-2010, 01:26 PM
Just a fyi. The sv27 is not the first boat to NOT use wood in the transom.

Rumdog
09-23-2010, 06:35 PM
But, it should be the last. Unless whoever is glassing the boat makes it THICK in the transom. Just seems like cutting corners to me. There is no REAL reason to eliminate the transom doubler.

vking
09-23-2010, 08:16 PM
Mine developed a crack on the transom on it's second run. The paint flaked off in a thin straight line across the upper section on the starboard side. The transom had a good amount of flex to it. Kinda disappointing.

When I got it home, I took a closer look to see what's up. I found the innermost fiberglass layer never made contact with the inner core causing a section of the transom that was hollow. Sort of like a bubble in a potato chip is the best way I can describe it.

Being this is my first r/c boat, it sucks to be stripping the internals out of it and making repairs instead of using it this early in the game. :glare:

Tony Vega
09-24-2010, 12:02 PM
Who said we are not working on it?.. or what makes you think we are not looking into it..
Grim

Put me on the top of the list for a free replacement hull.

Tony Vega
09-24-2010, 01:28 PM
vking,
Don't give up just yet! Great Planes gave my son excellent support when we burned up the motor on the very first run of his SV27. After a few e-mails they replaced it. There are always problems on a new RTR design. I'm assured (above) that the factory is working on a solution...


Fingers crossed that we get a similar response when dealing with split hulls and transoms. :Praying: I still don't get why I had to basically re-inforce my entire new boat with fiberglass before I could take my son out on the lake with it. One run and it split around the water outlet but heck it still runs and is fast as hell. I still recommend the boat to anyone wanting one of the fastest RTRs on the lake but in terms of durability, I think it needs to be addressed. Hobbico is a big company with deep pockets and they'll get it figured out. I've dealt with them for nearly 25 years on the cars side both professionally and as a consumer.

vking
09-24-2010, 08:33 PM
Finished up the repair job tonight. After cutting out the bad section, I glassed in a single layer of mat over the entire transom from the bottom, all the way up to the hatch opening. I then cut some circuit board material to form a set of knee braces. It's strong, waterproof, super light, and the holes help hold the resin to lock it all together. Glassed those in with a single layer as well to keep it light.

The transom is much better now.
Maybe Aquacraft can make the stringers with knee braces built right in and glass them to the transom to help solve the problem?

stringfly
09-25-2010, 12:26 PM
Looks very good vking. That should really help strengthen it. Will have to do it to mine. The thin ca I put in my exterior crack is holding so far but only 2 runs so far and the crack is getting a bit longer.

Stringfly <>+++++

menksters
09-27-2010, 02:38 AM
Being new to rc boating I really am at a loss as what to do with my aquacraft super-vee 27r. Don't want to be redundant here but I really hope there is a fix soon for these boats. Mine began to show exterior signs of transom cracking after 1st day out. Have tried thin ca outside as well as inside. Has continued to crack. Now it leaks half an ounce or so of water per run. I find this truly disappointing and hope that everyone who has purchased one of these gets some relief from the manufacturer. Was so enjoying learning the set up, tuning, and running this great looking,running model But I too find it unacceptable that all of them are not recalled as well as halting sales of them until this flaw is rectified. My monetary loss is beyond disappointing as it really angers me as I thought I had purchased a fine 1st boat to enjoy this segment of the hobby. Still hope the manufacturer devotes effort to the fix as it sounds like multiple people have experienced this problem. Now to close I hope to bring a smile to a dark situation when I say...... maybe cash for clunkers???? donnie

menksters
09-27-2010, 01:12 PM
I have just called hobbico regarding this problem. The tech stated that they have sold hundreds of these boats and not one has been returned for this problem. He also advised me that that no one is going to be further investigating this due to the fact that it does not appear that any design problem exists. This is contrary to what Grim has told us so I suspect we are having a failure to communicate this information within the hobbico network. Was also advised that as I have used this boat that I could not simply return it to Tower for a refund. Mr. Grim if by chance you review my post here might you please offer me some advise on how I might be able to get some resolution to this. Thank you in advance as I know you are working on this issue. Today I guess I will rough sand interior of transom and paint on a coat of thinned finishing epoxy to try and seal her up. Insaniac thanks for the form but hobbico stated that it would be a waste of time to return it as well as expensive for me. Model was purchased from Tower on 9-2. Enjoy to all. donnie

Rumdog
09-27-2010, 01:35 PM
I got the same B.S. from them with one of the original UL-1's when the cap popped on my esc. I'd say, just buy a Delta Force 29 hull and throw all your gear in it and be done with it!

driftah
09-27-2010, 02:44 PM
+1 on what rumdog says... the df hull is at least not a big ole design flaw,they are proven and handle waaaaay better.sv hulls are like fiberglass paper bags they need to be redone to be solid... just a waste of time for that price imo just switch the hardware and move on.

menksters
09-27-2010, 03:32 PM
Thanks men for the df29 recommendation. Immediately jumped to offshore to order one up. Greeted with backordered. What's a mother to do !! Anyone know of another vendor of these hulls. Were I not already so addicted I would simply give Grim and Hobbico a chance to follow up on this. Maybe I am living a dream but I would like to believe that they will or is this simply newbie ignorance? Thanks, Donnie

Tony Vega
09-27-2010, 05:23 PM
What does it take to pull the stuff out of the stock hull and into one of these recommended replacements?

kjohnsiii
12-05-2010, 07:53 PM
Well it looks like I have found my answere to my own question. It does not look like AQ will be helping me either BOO HOO!

pyroM!KE
02-02-2011, 07:27 PM
Hmm..I was going to get one of these but F all this BS!!

z400
02-02-2011, 10:20 PM
You guys expect everything to just be oh so perfect.

Steven Vaccaro
02-03-2011, 07:23 AM
The SuperVee is a great boat. A small crack here or there can easily be fixed with a bit of glue. I have a German Hull that I paid over $200 for the bare hull that has cracks. Its part of the hobby.

pyroM!KE
02-03-2011, 08:57 AM
Wounder why my Geico hasnt done this yet? Well over 40 runs..

veejo
01-25-2012, 07:09 PM
It's a manufacturing issue ...... that is why the issues are along the seams. Once the polyester has fully cured, and you glue the deck to the hull, it is nolonger a chemical bond, a physical one. I put some glass tape / mat along the seam with expoxy in areas I can get to. Very fiddly and I'd rather pay extra and it done at the factory in China for a lot less than it costs me to buy epoxy locally. In my opinion, they should make these hulls out of epoxy rather than polyester considering how much they charge, the market they sell to, and the benefits in regards to strength and bonding expoxy shells rather than polyester shells togther. It's not just aquacraft, but also proboat, though proboat at least has a nicer finish before they crack (and usually only after impact).

Hmmm here's an idea "supervee platinum edition ....... made with epoxy and reinforced seams" make it a plug and run if you're worried about costs or a bind and run.

hmmm, go into the hobby shop
consumer: "I'd like a SuperVee 27R please"
retailer: "would you like to up size that to extra re-inforcing and glass in the hull for an extra $10"
consumer:"yes please, seesm like good value"

veejo
01-25-2012, 07:24 PM
I have just called hobbico regarding this problem. The tech stated that they have sold hundreds of these boats and not one has been returned for this problem. He also advised me that that no one is going to be further investigating this due to the fact that it does not appear that any design problem exists. This is contrary to what Grim has told us so I suspect we are having a failure to communicate this information within the hobbico network. Was also advised that as I have used this boat that I could not simply return it to Tower for a refund. Mr. Grim if by chance you review my post here might you please offer me some advise on how I might be able to get some resolution to this. Thank you in advance as I know you are working on this issue. Today I guess I will rough sand interior of transom and paint on a coat of thinned finishing epoxy to try and seal her up. Insaniac thanks for the form but hobbico stated that it would be a waste of time to return it as well as expensive for me. Model was purchased from Tower on 9-2. Enjoy to all. donnie

We seem to have an accepatnce of things going wrong in this hobby and we fix it, we are tinkerers. If this happened to a mainstream product eg a car, there would be an uproar and it would be on the news "consumers are in an uproar as cracks appear on their Aquacraft family sedans". Windows crashes on a PC we reboot and accept it. If your family car needed to be rebooted, and it has software, there would be an uproar. RC boat problems aren't life threatening .... just inconvenient and irritating and a nuisance.