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View Full Version : Villain Single drive 700sc



Quicksilver
10-30-2007, 11:35 PM
Thought I'd make a build thread for this one. I'm just waiting for parts, which I'm sure will be a matter of hour, not days :)

setup will be as follows,
villain hull 30"
700sc motor
Jeti Navi 600
SV27 flex drive and strut
DIY rudder
16 IB3600's
CF 2217.42 prop

some pics of the boat and the rudder I just finished, last pic was taken an hour after starting to file down a rudder out of stock.

Quicksilver
10-30-2007, 11:39 PM
one more pic........side by side with the jet-villain

Quicksilver
11-02-2007, 02:50 AM
much more done today.
I will say with all the parts I received, the only one giving me trouble is the drive dog grub screw, it's microscopic. I have three hex wrench sets and none had that size. Besides that, I've just been learning as I go.

Darin Jordan
11-02-2007, 07:08 AM
I love seeing these mod projects... we're definately having a good time in this hobby, aren't we!??!!:thumbup1:

If you are into some build advice... One thing that I do to assure a friction-free stuffing tube/flex assembly is I always mount the hardware and motor first. Then, I install the stuffing tube and use the motor and strut to keep it in perfect alignment by installing the flex to hold it all in place while the epoxy dries... Then there isn't a lot of tweaking to get the flex to line up...

I still love the idea of the jet... I'm going to do that one of these days! :thumbup1:

Quicksilver
11-02-2007, 09:50 AM
thanks for the tip. The stuffing tube and teflon liner, are not epoxied on yet, just a mock up. I haven't done a flex drive boat before, so I'm being cautious and trying not to rush things. The only reason I've gotten so much done, is because I've had some days off. I've been messing around with motor placement, definitely will do it the way you said, I'd like the possibility of a cable failure to be as low as possible.

After I've got this boat running, then I'll go back to the jet boat, it's going to be completely gutted of everything not abs and rebuilt. you should do a jet, they're so cheap. Just the few bits of hardware I've spent on this surface drive, is more than a jet unit., only $55 for a jet just like the one I have or diego's.Or should I say the jet boat for known as diego's.:tongue_smilie:

steveo
11-02-2007, 06:05 PM
i have done the same to my old villian , i cut out the inner hull part where the batts were gave alot of extra room to stiffen the hull and battery placement, with a 700 and 12 cells it was a fast boat , i did have to use trim tabs but proper set up could have done with out i did not know much at the time, i do want to see some video with 16 cells

good work

Quicksilver
11-03-2007, 11:28 PM
got an update, motor and flex drive are hooked up.

Quicksilver
11-06-2007, 11:26 PM
more updates, besides sanding my fiber glass work on the exterior and figuring out the battery positions, she ready to get wet, even though it's snowing :tongue_smilie:

Quicksilver
11-12-2007, 07:31 PM
I left this thread dead...opps! boat is just being dialed in now. did not run well at first, but now is getting more controllable.
first run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS6BeQ7R6lM
second run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7E9AIZ173B8

kal1b3r
11-13-2007, 12:31 AM
looked very unstable on the first run

Quicksilver
11-13-2007, 01:03 AM
I agree, hence the second run.:tongue_smilie:

Steven Vaccaro
11-13-2007, 07:01 AM
The second run was better. What did you change? Strut angle?

Doozie870
11-13-2007, 09:08 AM
Seems like the batts are kinda high up there, is there anyway to cut what they are sitting on to drop them lower in the hull. Nice boat btw.

Quicksilver
11-13-2007, 11:47 AM
yeah Steven, I changed the angle. It's tough on that transom, it's still not quite neutral, which is why I think it's still bouncing. It was about negative 5 degrees, now it's about negative 1 degree. I also moved the batteries forward; in the first video theyre along side the motor. btw thanks for that prop choice, the motor's running cold, along with the esc. Batteries below 100 degrees, just warm. You have a recommendation for the next step up?

Doozie; I agree, I like keeping most on the inner hull, but it's apparent it'll have to go in order to lower the COG. I think it would end up with all 16 cells on the centerline, dropped about an entire inch. Think I'll have to stiffen the hull there, since all that weight could compromise my motor mount in an abs boat.

Keep the advice coming, I appreciate anything

It's nice to know I have some more room for improvements. :smile:

Quicksilver
11-13-2007, 02:06 PM
actually this wasnt too bad, get to keep some of the inner hull for strength and makes a little tub for the packs. :)

Quicksilver
11-18-2007, 04:12 PM
slipped my mind again forgot to post this humiliating video. btw the boat runs just fine again, but Steven I'm gonna need another diode ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2iKi4eDvMc

SJFE
11-18-2007, 05:07 PM
Your lucky ya didnt slip off that tube man. Invest in a recovery craft. Boat boogies man. Nice work.

Quicksilver
11-19-2007, 01:35 PM
thanks, a lot of people that saw that video didnt realize the first 30 seconds is the ONLY time in the video where something isnt hooked on the boat. When I finally got it back it had 2ft of tangled weeds on the rudder and 6ft of fishing line wrapped on the prop. Thank god it was cold or that would have fried everything.

Lesson learned.
I plan on getting both of my villains running so one can save the other.

If anyone wants to donate a radio to my effort, please drop me a line. I have zero money to buy more equipment.....and I'd pay for the shipping. Then I could interchange my motor/esc and battery combo and put a lighter setup in which ever boat is designated as the rescue boat.

Unfortunately unless the rescue boat had gotten out there fast, it wouldnt have been able to bring her in, it was soooooo weedy. I'm never running there again.

-------------------
putting that aside, I think I need to angle the strut up just a bit more to stop the bouncing. It still isnt quite neutral. any tips would be helpful.

I've looked at "lou's fast rc" version of the villain and he has a lot of hardware sticking out the back. Would I really need all that to be stable? I'm willing to do it, his ran nice but his also had more power than mine.

Sorry lot of questions.

last pic from http://www.lousfastrc.com/