Hammer Surfacerive conversion

[SJFE]

This is an upgrade I am doing for my Brother. Last week the performance on this boat was inproved by the esc upgrade. It still suffers from a cavatation problem and lack of some top speed. It don't like real choppy water and the prop loses bite fast..along with the rudder. I have a Proboat outdrive (thanks again Deigo) thats going on. As you can see from the pics I have the exit form the old propshaft cut out. My problem now is the radio box. I can NOT get it out. I fear the dremmel with a cutting wheel will be my only option this evening. What a smokey mess thats gona be :(. We have a nice 12v air cooled 600 motor that Doozie gave us for some upgrade power. I think 7 cells will do the trick here. We now have cells in spades (Thanks Fluid!!!) so making up some packs won't be a problem. I am hoping I can get this little boat running with or past my Villain. ANY suggestions you guys may have on power or drive setup is more than welcome. Thanks and enjoy the thread.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01315.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01320.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01318.jpg

[skidooguymxz550]

i pried the radio box out with a knife. i like this project. cheap upgrades are cool

[SJFE]

Thanks man. I am afraid I will rip the bottom of the boat out. I cut out the stuffing tub exit with a razor knife for god sake..lol. We are having fun with this also. Most of the stuff were using are gimies:).I look foward to helping him build his firts brushless boat.

[jrod2292]

have you gotten the radio box out yet?
keep us updated
jarrod

[SJFE]

I got the box out along wit the battery tray. Stuffing tube is epoxied in. I am going to put another tray in it tonight. I may get around to preping the transome for the drive also.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01323.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01325.jpg

[jrod2292]

looking good, did you just wiggle them loose or go at them with the dremel?
jarrod

[SJFE]

I am almost complete. I got a nice level surface down the center line of the hull. I'll mount the RX servo and esc inline. That leaves almost a foot of space on both sides for packs. He will only be running 8cell saddle packs but they will be able to be place all the way @ the transome if need be. I had to make up a bracket to level up the transom. I had the epoxy set up last night. A coat of white paint dressed it up a bit. The outdrive was mounted up with some big stainless screws. Alinment looks good all the way up to the motor. The stuffing tube just need a slight tweek for it all to be perfect. It should be wraped up tomorrow afternoon. High winds will rule out any tests untill Sunday.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01338.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01333.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01334.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01336.jpg

[jrod2292]

that looks great! very clean installation. i can't wait to see the results.
jarrod

[SweetZ28]

Seems like everyone likes going the pro boat rudder flex cable rout ..simple and cheap ...and works well

Nice job SJFE!

[Fluid]

With that seerable outdrive and the relatively shallow 'vee' on the Hammer, you may find that you need spin fins on the transom to keep from spining out. When we used to race shallow vees without strakes, some of us screwed a turn fin on the right side of the boat at the CG to improve steering and cornering. Looked kinda funny but they worked great...

.

[SJFE]

Thanks for the tip on the fins Fluid. Props has a set of turn fins in the mail for me. I will install the pair of them. As to progress I am alining the steering now. Some epoxy on the linkage boot and servo, then its off to the motor for brush coolers and connectors. I have about an hour left/

[SJFE]

Id like to start by saying. Hey look I finished one:D. Prolly cause it wasent mine..lol. The bench test video is a first for me. I thought it was a kewl idea. So ok here we have it. Few things, Had to extend the crontrole horn on the OD due to servo placment. Drive lined up perfect with the motor. Cable turns smooth as butter. This was my first attempt @ installing brush coolers. I should have done it long ago it's simple stuff. I am content with the placement of every thing. I have to tape the ecs battery input plug. It's a little close to the coupler. This motor turns up pretty good. It's rated @ 12v and we are puttin 11.1 to 11.5 into it. It should run pretty cool. The esc will have to be watched. We have that just about @ it's 12v rating also. If it gets to hot I'll use some thermal epoxy and bond a brass plate along with an mhz cooling block to it. I want to test it before waisting the stuff first. It's not cheap. We will lake test it in the morning. I'll have the run pictures 7 videos tomorrow evening.

Bench Test (http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/?action=view&current=Hammerbenchtest.flv)

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01340.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01341.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01343.jpg

[SweetZ28]

Hi SJFE do them brush coolers really do anything I never used them before?
Also Why not go with a cooling coil around the motor alsoshould cool things down much better?

Z

[SJFE]

The cooling coils are really not efective..but are better than nothing. The heat is generated in the center of the motor so cooling the out side of the can with a coil has a minimal affect. Water jackets are much better. On a brushed motors brush coolers are the way to go. The brushes are in direct contact with the com & armature. The cooling tubes can carry away a good amount of heat. Water cooling in general only does so much to save equipment. There is no substitute for a proper setup. Knowing the limitations of your equipment is the best way to make it last :).

[SweetZ28]

I got to try the brush cooling thingi never did it before.
Thanks SJFE

[SJFE]

No problem. If you have a motor mount or little vice and a set of helping hands its alot easer. Its tuff to get everything lined up and stable in order to solder it all up @ once. Use copper tubing. I thinks its the best stuff to solder to.

[SweetZ28]

THANKS SJFE :-)
O and keep a eye on the hammer motor cupler a lot of guy's say they don't hold up to well.

[SJFE]

Yeah it's a POS. It wasent even drilled correctly. one side wasway off center. I redrilled it toget us through today. I have an OSE coupler that should be here monday.

[SweetZ28]

Cool let us know how she goes!

[Quicksilver]

pretty sweet conversion.

You saved me a lot of grief, in my 700sc powered villain, I've been banging my head over how to mount my servo, and then I saw yours, thank you :w00t: I know it's simple, but for some reason it's always the stupidest things that get me hung up on a build. I just finished glassing it in, now maybe this boat will get wet soon. :D

Quick question, do you think I should just ditch my motor cooling coil, and just stick to brush cooling? Does the coil help at all?

[SJFE]

I would just worry about the brush coolers. The coils do work to an extent. I would buy an OSE jaket for the SC.

[rcmaster1029]

So, what happened to this thing?

[G Doggett]

I recommend brush cooling on any brushed motor and with LSO and LSH it is essential.
Most of the heat is generated in the armature windings and the com/brush area so direct cooling here is vital.
I have seen 700 motors get hot enough to melt the solder connections on the power terminals.
A cooling coil or jacket on the can is really only cooling the magnets, but this is also a good idea as if the magnets get too hot they will loose some of their magnetism resulting in a perminant power loss.
It's a tricky job soldering soldering wires, brass tubes,capacitors,and diodes to the terminals, but its worth the effort.
Graham.

[SJFE]

It is now a recovery boat.

[rcmaster1029]

Oh, well that's boring...lol...how does it run?

[SJFE]

What diffrence does it make? It's boring right, which is why the post was burried way back in the arcives.

[rcmaster1029]

Well, I'm sorry.

[Eyekandyboats]

tom it looks good.
but that coupler is the weak point. I have riped mine apart several times

[jrod2292]

do you have any pics of it completed, and what ever happened to the video. i was gonna do a similar conversion to my hammer but then i decided to get a boat i've wanted forever, the villain, so now theres no money to do the conversion.
oh well, you win some you lose some
jarrod

[bobswworld]

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/26/1722528/700motorinhammer.JPG

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/26/1722528/flexshafthammer.JPGhttp://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/26/1722528/dumasoutdrivehammer.JPG

I would like to see the hammer go as well if possible SJFE???
this one is still on the bench waiting for more paint
the hardware needs cut down but only after running it so it is dialed in.
the motor and shaft all run smooth.
The pic of the outdrive is of course not adjusted there. It looks good when all together

[SJFE]

Here are a couple pictures I didn't post. I also have a bench test video clip here.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01335.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/DSC01337.jpg

Bench test. (http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/STOAK/?action=view&current=Hammerbenchtest.flv)

[bobswworld]

Thanks SJFE
looks good, should have been fun

Hope to have mine going soon, It might have a little drag with all that hardware I have, I was just wanting to do something crazy. Can always put it back the way it was.
was you running 7.2volt or twice that?? could not tell for sure.

[SJFE]

We had 9.6 in it or 8 cells in saddle packs to keep the weight in the back.

[bobswworld]

Cool
I was going to put the radio box back in for the steering servo. thought about weight in the back, but trying to make this easy for now, but I will remember what you did.
cannot wait to get this 700 mod going. was going to run 12 cells but all my packs are 8 cells now for the aquajet. will have to use my 7.2 nicads at 14.4 volts it ought to fly or sink.