EKOS clone and upgrade questions.

[JPriami]

I ordered a Dragon Saga cat from the UK this week. I did a bunch of looking around to find the specs of everything and now I might be heading for trouble. because I was originally going to buy the new EKOS with the new outrunners. at that time I ordered new lipos for the boat and 36mm machine props by venom. But I ended up getting this other boat thats a clone of it because I liked the paint better because its not the EKOS paint job like everyone else has. So I want to know whats best or has been proven to work best to upgrade things like the motors in the EKOS boats.

Here is a couple pics of the boat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5502426a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5502426b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5502426c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5502426d.jpg
Specs:
Length - 820mm
Width - 240mm
Weight - 2400g
Speed Controller - 2x 70 Amp Water Cooled (Included)
Servos - 1 (Included)
Motor - 2x Water Cooled 2636kv brushless (Included)
Battery - 2x 11.1v 2100 - 4500Mah Lipo (Not Included)
Hull Material - Fibreglass (FRP). Propeller - D36 x P1.4
--
The ESC's are 70 amp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7050.jpg
Specs:
Type - Water Cooled
Voltage - 7.4 - 22.2v (2 - 6 cells lipo)
BEC - 5.5v @ 4 amp
Battery Connector - T-Style
--
The motors are Feisuda 380 2848-2636Kv
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7000.jpg
Specs:
15 Turn
27 Amp
0.0341 Resistance
2636 Kv
0.9 I0(A)

When I ordered my lipos I was thinking I would be gettin gthe EKOS. I ordered Hyperion EX 3S 5000mAh 45C packs

Now after finding the motor specs, well I'm worried I will smoke those motors running my packs. Because they are only rated for 27 amps. Am I right to figure that’s a problem? I am not buying smaller lipo packs lol. But I will try to buy better motors. What would be the best replacement motors that will drop in without too much modding and give me much more speed and even turn a bigger prop if I have to. I am thinking I maybe buying new esc's at some point if i kill these. wont know till I cross that brigde.

[JPriami]

I see these motors are a good upgrade. Are they a drop in replacement or a little work needed? If so what all is needed to complete? And can you turn a larger prop with these?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/prodimages/feigao-380xl_medium.JPG
But 9xl or 10xl better for 3-4S lipos? because I may try to get 4S if I cant get this thing to break 50mph on 3S

Where are you guys getting the wire drives from? I seen them one night in a search but didnt save it on this pc.

[LarrysDrifter]

Read the SeaKing 120esc thread and others.There will be all the info you can ever need on upgrading these hulls.And 9xl's and 10xl's are good motors that bolt right in.Youll be spending alot of money on this to get good speed out of it.Wire drives and other drive hardware is from rcraceboats.com.click on the EKOS part and youll be there.Be sure you read up on things before you buy.

[LarrysDrifter]

One more thing-66 mph is the top mile per hour that needs to be broken here with that hull.Good luck.

[Rumdog]

the main thing you'll need to do is make sure that the props are counter rotating. Spinning toward each other. In the pics, they are not counter rotating. Yhis will require a right hand flex and clockwise spinning prop, or wire drives.

[JPriami]

Thanks. I will inspect the flex cables when get it. I have a pair of counter rotating 36 mm props for it that came the other day

[JPriami]

from that pic of the boat props it looks like i will need a right hand flex cable to use my counter rotation props right? I just want a 2nd opnion before i order

[Rumdog]

Yep, if it comes like in the pics, you'll need a right hand flex.

[LarrysDrifter]

Or use wire drives.I have them in my EKOS,works good.

[JPriami]

Im going to try and get the wire drives. I just need to sell some of the stuff I dont use to reinvest in this area of the hobby lol. this keeps me out of trouble with the ole lady:blah:

[LarrysDrifter]

Im going to try and get the wire drives. I just need to sell some of the stuff I dont use to reinvest in this area of the hobby lol. this keeps me out of trouble with the ole lady:blah:

You ainta kiddin there.I have about $600 in my EKOS upgrading everything.But now its fast and fun.Untill I wreked bad Monday.Went 66mph and got air.You can get wires from rcraceboat.som.They go right in.Should be the same for your boat as the EKOS.

[JPriami]

awe man sorry about the accident. 66mph thats sweet for this boat:bowdown:
did you find the best props for your setup yet or did you have time to play around with diffrent props?

[LarrysDrifter]

awe man sorry about the accident. 66mph thats sweet for this boat:bowdown:
did you find the best props for your setup yet or did you have time to play around with diffrent props?

I ran 442's on it for the speed runs.Temps were 117 degrees on motors and speedos.The best props I ran were 38mm from Kintec.They can be found on the EKOS upgrades section.Dont over speed this hull.IMO,dont go faster than 50-55mph.Mine with the 38's was at 56mph.Make sure you slow down to turn.I just tore my hull down.It is gone.I found a lot of cracks that go all the way through the hull.On top of the major break.Just be careful when running top speed with your china hull.They are cool and look nice,but are thin and flimsy.Look around on the Venom King of Shaves threads-you will find a lot of info as far as upgrades for yours.I dont know for a fact,but Im pretty sure you have the same hull,just painted different.Good luck with yours and post pics and tell us what your doing with it.Ill be on the search for a new hull.

[JPriami]

I ran 442's on it for the speed runs.Temps were 117 degrees on motors and speedos.The best props I ran were 38mm from Kintec.They can be found on the EKOS upgrades section.Dont over speed this hull.IMO,dont go faster than 50-55mph.Mine with the 38's was at 56mph.Make sure you slow down to turn.I just tore my hull down.It is gone.I found a lot of cracks that go all the way through the hull.On top of the major break.Just be careful when running top speed with your china hull.They are cool and look nice,but are thin and flimsy.Look around on the Venom King of Shaves threads-you will find a lot of info as far as upgrades for yours.I dont know for a fact,but Im pretty sure you have the same hull,just painted different.Good luck with yours and post pics and tell us what your doing with it.Ill be on the search for a new hull.

Thanks for all your input and advice. I'll keep things updated here as I go along. right now im waiting on the boat its coming from the UK it shipped out today. In the mean time im researching the upgrade options and making my list. My lipos came today so thats was nice to get.

[scubasteve95]

[QUOTE=JPriami;217126]I ordered a Dragon Saga cat from the UK this week. I did a bunch of looking around to find the specs of everything and now I might be heading for trouble. because I was originally going to buy the new EKOS with the new outrunners. at that time I ordered new lipos for the boat and 36mm machine props by venom. But I ended up getting this other boat thats a clone of it because I liked the paint better because its not the EKOS paint job like everyone else has. So I want to know whats best or has been proven to work best to upgrade things like the motors in the EKOS boats.

Here is a couple pics of the boat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/5502426a.jpg
Specs:
Length - 820mm
Width - 240mm
Weight - 2400g
Speed Controller - 2x 70 Amp Water Cooled (Included)
Servos - 1 (Included)
Motor - 2x Water Cooled 2636kv brushless (Included)
Battery - 2x 11.1v 2100 - 4500Mah Lipo (Not Included)
Hull Material - Fibreglass (FRP). Propeller - D36 x P1.4
--
The ESC's are 70 amp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7050.jpg
Specs:
Type - Water Cooled
Voltage - 7.4 - 22.2v (2 - 6 cells lipo)
BEC - 5.5v @ 4 amp
Battery Connector - T-Style
--
The motors are Feisuda 380 2848-2636Kv
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7000.jpg
Specs:
15 Turn
27 Amp
0.0341 Resistance
2636 Kv
0.9 I0(A)

When I ordered my lipos I was thinking I would be gettin gthe EKOS. I ordered Hyperion EX 3S 5000mAh 45C packs

these packs will work just fine....:thumbup1:keep it stock and run her.
3s-4500 or 3s 5000mah no real diff.
motors are less kv then the ekos...thats good
nice paint....makes me want to sand and paint my ekos

[scubasteve95]

o yea..1 more thing
cat is 2" shorter than ekos make sure inerts are the same dimensions.
just to be safe.......
check the flex first may be ok...mite just have wrong prop for pics...
seen it done before to club member
again nice cat...good choice..saw this first but
was out of stock so ordered the ekos...love this boat
but now i hate the paint....off i go to to get some sandpaper

[VIKOS]

Well since it is a replica and since I'm the only one around with this hull paint scheme..I love my paint. those motors look to be better suited than the Venom motors..and your esc is probably better than ours. I have no problem running 4s lipo on my esc nor issues. Its says 2-6s lipo might want a low mah if you go more than 4s. I also got a couple of hair line cracks none are break thru hull so I just used marine hair line filler,and some of my epoxy glue on the left side front. put your mouth to it and suck..no homo.... if you suck in air the nyou have a break thru. I don't want to hit 66mph in this hull I see bad things happening. I'll be happy at 50-55 mph all day every day set up.

[JPriami]

Thanks for the tips.
Let me ask a question. For those of you experiencing cracks in your boat. Have you thought about reinforcing the hull a little bit with an extra layer of epoxy resin. Or apply fiberglass matt where you are finding the cracks with the resin. Or maybe a layer of carbon fiber with resin in the problematic ares?

[JPriami]

fei-380-xL
Feigao 380xl "Extra Long" Sized Brushless Motor
I was going to order these but the cooling jackets are out of stock.

[FighterCat57]

I run a pair of these on the stock ESC's 3s/4s w/32mm props and get about 53mph out of it. The motors have 19 &25mm spaced mount holes and mount in the stock position.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5146

Order a pair of Jeff's EKOS wire drives and Couplers. Best drive available IMO.

HTH- Good Luck!

[JPriami]

I run a pair of these on the stock ESC's 3s/4s w/32mm props and get about 53mph out of it. The motors have 19 &25mm spaced mount holes and mount in the stock position.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5146

Order a pair of Jeff's EKOS wire drives and Couplers. Best drive available IMO.

HTH- Good Luck!

I did order the wire drives and octura 1/8 couplers today. I may order a spare set of flex drives too. I understand the wire drives are good. But it sounds like it has to be a straight shot from the motor to the prop. if there is any bend in the wire drive it will cause problems. Am I correct or did I misunderstand this somewhere? Seems like the flex cables would be more forgiving where you have a slight bend.

I looked at those motors and read the reviews. They dont sound to bad for the price. They do look a lot like the venom ones tho and thats scary lol.
I know the new venom boats have out runners. And we have yet to get any feedback on how those work in these hulls.
But I know outrunners can make more torque than the inrunners. And the can be fan cooled like on the heils and other rc's. I have even read where people have been using out runners on boats and like them. One day I'd like to see what out runner would work well in this hull other than the venom ones.

[FighterCat57]

I did order the wire drives and octura 1/8 couplers today. I may order a spare set of flex drives too. I understand the wire drives are good. But it sounds like it has to be a straight shot from the motor to the prop. if there is any bend in the wire drive it will cause problems. Am I correct or did I misunderstand this somewhere? Seems like the flex cables would be more forgiving where you have a slight bend.

I looked at those motors and read the reviews. They dont sound to bad for the price. They do look a lot like the venom ones tho and thats scary lol.
I know the new venom boats have out runners. And we have yet to get any feedback on how those work in these hulls.
But I know outrunners can make more torque than the inrunners. And the can be fan cooled like on the heils and other rc's. I have even read where people have been using out runners on boats and like them. One day I'd like to see what out runner would work well in this hull other than the venom ones.

The problem is the 19mm stock motor mount holes, limiting to 380 size motors with 19mm spacing.

I have a pair of 540 outrunners in another 32" hull, much like this one and love them, they sound awesome. 500-600 heli motors. (generic 32" cat thread)

If you're up to changing the motor mounts, I can recommend a few motors.

[JPriami]

I might hit you up on that. But for now I havent even got the boat its on its way to me. It was in the UK then germany now in NY. So it wont be long lol. I plan on running it stock a couple times to see what its like. then change out the flex cables and try diffrent props. then motors. and im sure ill be fixing things that break. I hear the rudder setup is weak so I have that to watch.

[FighterCat57]

I might hit you up on that. But for now I havent even got the boat its on its way to me. It was in the UK then germany now in NY. So it wont be long lol. I plan on running it stock a couple times to see what its like. then change out the flex cables and try diffrent props. then motors. and im sure ill be fixing things that break. I hear the rudder setup is weak so I have that to watch.

Yeah, the rudder is not break away, so be cautious...

[JPriami]

I was looking at battery packs and what some are posting they are using. I ordered packs and paid a pretty penny for them. but now looking at the specs of the packs others are using i wonder are mine too long. mine are 6.5in long or i think about 160mm. are the packs going to hit something up front in the hull being longer?

[FighterCat57]

I was looking at battery packs and what some are posting they are using. I ordered packs and paid a pretty penny for them. but now looking at the specs of the packs others are using i wonder are mine too long. mine are 6.5in long or i think about 160mm. are the packs going to hit something up front in the hull being longer?

That hull/battery holder is different than the EKOS, so can't say...

[JPriami]

ok. i am looking for some 4s to have on order. i was looking at the turnigy 4s 5l nanos. but im not sure. guess i should wait till the boat comes. should be thursday

[FighterCat57]

ok. i am looking for some 4s to have on order. i was looking at the turnigy 4s 5l nanos. but im not sure. guess i should wait till the boat comes. should be thursday

Yeah, the height from the hull to the hatch is a limiting factor... only like 33mm + or - .

[JPriami]

thats good to know thanks

[VIKOS]

nope just epoxy when you find a crack thats all the way thru..most are just hair line and are ok..epoxy is great. On another note where did you find this boat I might buy one and upgrade a lil bit...good that both boats can swap parts on each other..I'm going to bump up prop size t o34mm next week..raced a thunder tiger OBL and tore it a new a$$hole today lol. Those v hulls are crap but they are quite though...lol KOs FTW!!!!

[JPriami]

I'd like to know what other owners of this boat say about what their boat weighs with the batteries in it. I need to know if mine is too heavy. thanks

[FighterCat57]

I'd like to know what other owners of this boat say about what their boat weighs with the batteries in it. I need to know if mine is too heavy. thanks

2200 grams empty / 3160 w/2 30c 4k 4s Lipos

[JPriami]

about 6.9 Lbs loaded? OK. I got mine today. had a bit of things to fix on it out of the box. But i do inspect everything i buy and look over it to make sure things are ok. I havent gotten to really run it yet. Looks like it will be weighing in at 6.2Lbs or so with the 3S 5K 45C lipos. The box says it should weigh 2400g as rtr. I was just wondering maybe mine was too heavy.

[JPriami]

I got it today. Few pics i snapped with my phone. When i put the props on i was thinking they would work better with the left prop spinning counter clockwise and the right spinning clockwise. idk made sense to me because it looked like the prop would grab more water comming off the hull in that way. But then i looked at the manual and seen it wanted me to have it setup the other way. So i pulled the cables out and swapped the cable and props around.

[forescott]

I got it today. Few pics i snapped with my phone. When i put the props on i was thinking they would work better with the left prop spinning counter clockwise and the right spinning clockwise. idk made sense to me because it looked like the prop would grab more water comming off the hull in that way. But then i looked at the manual and seen it wanted me to have it setup the other way. So i pulled the cables out and swapped the cable and props around.

Yup, the ekos manual shows it the same way...left side clockwise.

[LarrysDrifter]

Thats a good looking hull.Id like to have one of those to replace my EKOS.Can you tell me where you got it again?

[JPriami]

I got mine in the UK at http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk took about a week to get here shipped TNT
They carry 2 vesions of the boat as follows.

DRAGON MINI CAT 820EP 70A BOAT (R/C READY) (http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/Products/Boats/ALL-RC-BOATS/6338-/5502425-DRAGON-MINI-CAT-860EP-70A-BOAT-RC-READY)
http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/images/BOATS/~medium/~md-5502425.jpg

DRAGON-SAGA-MINI-CAT-820EP-70A-BOAT-RC-READY (http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/Products/Boats/ALL-RC-BOATS/10174-/5502426-DRAGON-SAGA-MINI-CAT-820EP-70A-BOAT-RC-READY)
http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/images/BOATS/~medium/~md-SAGA%20MINI%20CAT.jpg

[JPriami]

orBbVV4WXg4&feature=related
posted this on another fourm but i just cant get enough of it lol

[JPriami]

I ran it today. it seems pretty cool. might be going about high 30"s to low 40"s. But the darn thing dosent seem to run for very long. I mean I might get 3mins of good run time. after that its a slug.:help:
Is it because my lipos are 45C? are they discharging to fast? Would I get longer run times on a 20C pack? They are hyperion EX G3 3S 5000mAh 45C packs.
Whats the score here im kind of bummed out.

[FighterCat57]

Yeah, twin motors suck down the juice pretty quick. This is where an eagle tree comes in handy.

[JPriami]

ill be selling this pos if this is what i have to look forward too lol. move back to combustion engines

[electric]

I ran it today. it seems pretty cool. might be going about high 30"s to low 40"s. But the darn thing dosent seem to run for very long. I mean I might get 3mins of good run time. after that its a slug.:help:
Is it because my lipos are 45C? are they discharging to fast? Would I get longer run times on a 20C pack? They are hyperion EX G3 3S 5000mAh 45C packs.
Whats the score here im kind of bummed out.

No so much the C rating as the MAH. Think of the MAH as how big your gas tank is. Is it 3000,4000, 5000???? The bigger the the gas tank, the longer you can go.
C rating is just how much the amperage the battery can give up without being damaged.

[LarrysDrifter]

Doesnt sound right to me.I have 4000mah packs in my EKOS and can get about 10 minutes of constant wide open throttle.Dont sell it just yet.We will all help figure this out.Dont be surprised about having issues come up with this boat.Its the same POS as the EKOS stock.You can either up grade everything,or get rid of it.Thats what I did and I still have problems sometimes.Not nearly as often as stock,but they are still there.If you do sell,let me know,but dont give up yet.

[JPriami]

I'll still mess with the boat a while. I’m still waiting on parts I’ve ordered anyways lol.

A little electrical background I am a FCC licensed ham radio operator and I’m one of those that actually studied to pass his test to get his license ha-ha. Most people cheat and just study the questions and answers on the test question pools.

I am a little new to lipo batteries being most of my rc hobby has been gas or nitro. So I do ask many questions. And by no means am I nor declaring myself knowledgeable. But I do put a lot of thought into things trying to understand.

I understand about the mAh (miliamphour) is what the pack holds as its capacity. And the C rating is what it can safely discharge at. My progression of thought on the C rating affecting run time is as follows.

If you think of the battery pack like a tank of water. That holds 5 gallons. These 5 gallons would be the mAh. And the water valve opening diameter as the C rating. The larger the C rating the larger diameter of the valve opening & faster discharge rate of the water. And also the faster the tank will empty. I thought maybe there is a balance between mAh and C rating for what your setup needs and this balance gives you the most power and run time you can have. But if you don’t have enough or too much of either then this will shorten your runtimes or starve the electrical setup for what it needs to perform its best.

I guess my question should be is is it possible to have to high of C rating on a lipo pack than your system needs and that it will discharge the pack quicker than if you had a lower C rating. And that is there a balance between enough and too much on the C rating.

[Rumdog]

a little off. Think of the c rating more as the valve has the ability to open more. It will only fully open when the motor is trying to pull all the available juice it can. Some motor, and prop combos require more juice at a faster rate. However, if your packs have avery large c rating, and the motor isnt trying to pull those amps, the valve will never fully open. Packs will only discharge faster if the motor is pulling more amps.

[JPriami]

Thanks for the info. that puts my mind at ease a bit.

[forescott]

I see a lot of guys that buy into the hype of the c-rating and spend lots of money on 45+c-rated lipos expecting to see gains in speed. But it doesn't always work that way. I like the gas tank analogy!

[JPriami]

I ordered the 45c packs because i was getting these packs for the new traxxas titan boat coming out. and someone from traxxas told me i should have 45c pack s at the minimum.

[LarrysDrifter]

The only difference Ive seen in lipos is running them at 100 degrees as opposed to room temp.You can tell a difference in power.I never believed it before.

[JPriami]

so i should stick my lipos in the microwave and warm them up before i run them right ;) lol. just kidding
I wonder if people that run at races use a warmer to keep them heated or something

[LarrysDrifter]

Last time I raced was about a month ago in the heat.Mine sat on my white pit table and got up to 100 degrees plus or minus a few.That was the 1st time I ran them that warm.I could definitely see the difference in power in my ul-1.Its worth trying after you get your new boat sorted out.

[JPriami]

myheating pad wont be just for my back now lol

[forescott]

I ordered the 45c packs because i was getting these packs for the new traxxas titan boat coming out. and someone from traxxas told me i should have 45c pack s at the minimum.

Sorry, but that is just b.s. Sounds like something my local hobby shop would tell me!

[JPriami]

live and learn i suppose. no biggie. other thanin my wallet

[LarrysDrifter]

Sorry, but that is just b.s. Sounds like something my local hobby shop would tell me!

:iagree:If you already bought them and didnt use them,see if you can send em back.I used to be into the whole "c" rating crap.Im not too sure I believe it.Maybe one can benefit from a high c rating when running 8s or more?

[JPriami]

too late. its the only packs i have for boats now. again im a gas/nitro guy (my rcu names says it NitroSS) so this is my 2nd venture into FE boats. I had to start over again and get new packs for the boats I was planning on getting. this one and the titan. im not getting the titan till i get this one working right and its fun. my first venture into FE was with a supervee 27 a few years back. when i sold it it was on hard times and the electric was the first to go.

[eboat]

C rating
You can never have too high a C rating (just costs more)
But if you have too low and try to draw more amps than the C rating allows things will get hot (some times too hot) :)

[Brushless55]

I ordered the 45c packs because i was getting these packs for the new traxxas titan boat coming out. and someone from traxxas told me i should have 45c pack s at the minimum.

Well that tells you a little something about Traxxas :doh:

[Brushless55]

o yea..1 more thing
cat is 2" shorter than ekos make sure inerts are the same dimensions.
just to be safe.......
check the flex first may be ok...mite just have wrong prop for pics...
seen it done before to club member
again nice cat...good choice..saw this first but
was out of stock so ordered the ekos...love this boat
but now i hate the paint....off i go to to get some sandpaper

FYI
this cat is the same hull as the ekos :Peace_Sign:

[JPriami]

I can confirm this too. :D

[Brushless55]

I can confirm this too. :D

:hug1:

[JPriami]

well Ive run the boat about 3 more times now after fixing a flex cable that broke. the props spin pretty freely when you turn them by hand. so I know there is no issue with the drive line binding up. I have a little gap between the drive dog and the bearing on the strut to allow for the cable to tighten a bit under load. my lipos are new hyperion GX EX 3S 45C 5000mAh but i still cant get much for good run times. im talking 3 mins tops at full throttle about 85% of that time doing straight runs. and throttle down to slow down and turn around. and after 5 mins of over all runtime the boat is slow and I bring it in to make sure i dont run the packs down to far. I mean come on wtf 5 mins on a FE boat with 5000mAh high dollar lipos? Als o noticed if I wait a few moment s and let the boat sit out in the water then start moving again and hammer the throttle I can hear the motors spin up to higher rpm for just a second then drop back down. any clues on that?

[FighterCat57]

well Ive run the boat about 3 more times now after fixing a flex cable that broke. the props spin pretty freely when you turn them by hand. so I know there is no issue with the drive line binding up. I have a little gap between the drive dog and the bearing on the strut to allow for the cable to tighten a bit under load. my lipos are new hyperion GX EX 3S 45C 5000mAh but i still cant get much for good run times. im talking 3 mins tops at full throttle about 85% of that time doing straight runs. and throttle down to slow down and turn around. and after 5 mins of over all runtime the boat is slow and I bring it in to make sure i dont run the packs down to far. I mean come on wtf 5 mins on a FE boat with 5000mAh high dollar lipos? Als o noticed if I wait a few moment s and let the boat sit out in the water then start moving again and hammer the throttle I can hear the motors spin up to higher rpm for just a second then drop back down. any clues on that?


That's the props slipping in the water.

[FighterCat57]

JMO, but I think that boat is over propped with 36mm props. I've found more speed and longer run times by going with 32mm props. A lot more.

[JPriami]

no thats not what i mean. I may have worded it wrong. when the batteries drop off and the boat is being slow. I let it sit out in the water for about a min or so. then i would start to take off slowly then get up on plane a bit then hammer down. the boat starts to speed up and you can hear the motors spooling up and it acts like its going to start hauling butt again but then it just goes back down to being slow. i was wondering if that could be a problem with the esc's or something.

also I forgot to note. these packs are 3S 11.1v packs and i charge them up to 12.6 thats where they seem to peak and stop on the charger. when the batteries go down and the boat is being slow i bring it in. and when i put the batteries on the charger they are at 12.0/1 v they are never at 11.1 or below. wtf?
I set the esc's in the programming for 11.1v packs too

[JPriami]

maybe overpropped idk. they are lower kv (2636kv) rating motors than venoms 2850kv. I'd think that with that id be able to handle 36mm props with ease. its not very warm when i pull it out of the water and take the hatch off after running either.

[Brushless55]

no thats not what i mean. I may have worded it wrong. when the batteries drop off and the boat is being slow. I let it sit out in the water for about a min or so. then i would start to take off slowly then get up on plane a bit then hammer down. the boat starts to speed up and you can hear the motors spooling up and it acts like its going to start hauling butt again but then it just goes back down to being slow. i was wondering if that could be a problem with the esc's or something.

also I forgot to note. these packs are 3S 11.1v packs and i charge them up to 12.6 thats where they seem to peak and stop on the charger. when the batteries go down and the boat is being slow i bring it in. and when i put the batteries on the charger they are at 12.0/1 v they are never at 11.1 or below. wtf?
I set the esc's in the programming for 11.1v packs too

I had this issue with my UL-1 running cheap packs
they just were never able to keep up with the motor... they would run good for about 2-3 min then start slowing down.. I would let the Hydro sit for 15-20 seconds then punch it and it would haul for about 200ft then drop off real quick
but your boat has 380 motors that don't pull the amps the UL-1 does and they should be working better?
how are the temps of your escs?

[LarrysDrifter]

Sounds like to me the low voltage cutoff is kicking in.You should be having alot longer run times than that.I always set my LVC at 3.2v.Its a little low,but most times I dont run my boats till the LVC kicks in.Do you know what its set at?

[FighterCat57]

maybe overpropped idk. they are lower kv (2636kv) rating motors than venoms 2850kv. I'd think that with that id be able to handle 36mm props with ease. its not very warm when i pull it out of the water and take the hatch off after running either.

It didn't make sense to me either, until I tried it and the results surprised me. Those are low torque motors, so the smaller props spin up better. They do slip more, but the top end is much higher. The props are $3 each... not much to lose if you don't like the results.



Good luck. :Peace_Sign:

[FighterCat57]

no thats not what i mean. I may have worded it wrong. when the batteries drop off and the boat is being slow. I let it sit out in the water for about a min or so. then i would start to take off slowly then get up on plane a bit then hammer down. the boat starts to speed up and you can hear the motors spooling up and it acts like its going to start hauling butt again but then it just goes back down to being slow. i was wondering if that could be a problem with the esc's or something.

also I forgot to note. these packs are 3S 11.1v packs and i charge them up to 12.6 thats where they seem to peak and stop on the charger. when the batteries go down and the boat is being slow i bring it in. and when i put the batteries on the charger they are at 12.0/1 v they are never at 11.1 or below. wtf?
I set the esc's in the programming for 11.1v packs too

That is the LVC and normal behavior from what I know.

What kind of charger are you using? Is it a lipo charger?

[Brushless55]

Sounds like to me the low voltage cutoff is kicking in.You should be having alot longer run times than that.I always set my LVC at 3.2v.Its a little low,but most times I dont run my boats till the LVC kicks in.Do you know what its set at?

I didn't think of that :doh:
but for my UL-1 it was my packs, they just sucked :glare:

[JPriami]

I have a SkyCharger B6AC+ for charging my lipos.
As for the LVC is that what is set in the ESC's in the boat? There is a programming sheet for the ESC's that beeps to communicate with it. I have the cell type set to 3S li-po 11.1v 9v cut off voltage it says in the papers.

Or are you reffering to LVC as to something on my charger?

[eboat]

As long as you are sure you have it set at 3S and 9 volts and not 4S and 12 volts

[LarrysDrifter]

It wont be on your charger.You set it with your tx.(sucks).Do you have a programming card?If not I have an extra that will prob work with your speedos.Let me know and its yours.Im not gonna use it.I have 2 of them.

[JPriami]

pretty sure. from the paper work and the beeps/tones it makes. maybe i should try the next setting down and see if that helps? maybe the english translation was wrong on the papers

[JPriami]

its just a sheet of paper with the beeps and tones decoded right?

[LarrysDrifter]

Its too easy to get it wrong using the beeps and throttle trigger pulls.You need a card.

[JPriami]

I can scan mine and post if you want to look at it. btw i just noticed the 4s cutoff is 12v and thats where my packs sit when i bring the boat back in. i bet the programming paper is wrong for this

[FighterCat57]

LVC- Low Voltage Cutoff, part of the ESC software, See Attached.

[FighterCat57]

Its too easy to get it wrong using the beeps and throttle trigger pulls.You need a card.

Yep, a hobbywing card.

[JPriami]

ill look in a few mins thanks.. taking care of my 1yr old son..he trying to help type

[LarrysDrifter]

:thumbup:Good boy!Raise em right!

[forescott]

I would try turning the lvc off and see if you can run it for 5-minutes. Also, when you charge the packs, does you're charger show how much mah you're putting back into the packs? That would let you know if you're using the whole charge in your packs. Is it a peak charger??. the lvc could be set on its highest setting too, that would allow the lvc to kick in early.

[JPriami]

the charger seems pretty nice for what it cost ($60). it has a temp sensor and even a port to hook to your PC and run software to monitor the packs, individual cell voltage, and see the overall voltage and mAh, current and few other things. you can charge /balance/ discharge ac or dc inputs.
SkyCharger B6AC+ (http://www.xheli.com/skychb6durcc.html)

[JPriami]

im new to FE boats and all. whats a programming card lol

[forescott]

Some speed controls sell a little programming box you can plug into the speed control to adjust the settings easily. Some of the import esc's are the same, just re-branded and can use the same programmer.

[JPriami]

These are the ESC's in it

ESC's are 70 amp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7050.jpg
Specs:
Type - Water Cooled
Voltage - 7.4 - 22.2v (2 - 6 cells lipo)
BEC - 5.5v @ 4 amp
Battery Connector - T-Style

[Diesel6401]

THIS (http://www.hobbyhot.com/hobbywing-program-card-for-boat-c-282-p-1-pr-2609.html) is a programming card for a Turnigy Marine, Hobbywing, Venom esc. Like Forescott said some of the esc's are the same just re-branded like the Venom ekos esc's & the Turnigy Marine series esc's are different labeled Hobbywing Seaking esc's. Venom & HK don't make the own stuff just change the label

[LarrysDrifter]

Exactly.I think yours are the same as Turnigy,Hobbywing/seaking...etc.I have an extra you can have if you dont have one.

[FighterCat57]

the charger seems pretty nice for what it cost ($60). it has a temp sensor and even a port to hook to your PC and run software to monitor the packs, individual cell voltage, and see the overall voltage and mAh, current and few other things. you can charge /balance/ discharge ac or dc inputs.
SkyCharger B6AC+ (http://www.xheli.com/skychb6durcc.html)

Yeah, that's a HOTA charger, a good one. I have two of them, modeled as Thunder Power from hobbypartz.

[JPriami]

Hota?

[JPriami]

I just wanted to say thanks for everyones help tonight. I like to learn about the stuff I am messing with as much as I can and all of you have been a big help since Ive come here. Thanks

[Diesel6401]

Prime example Venom 60 amp (http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=1398), Turnigy Marine 60amp (http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7360&Product_Name=Turnigy_Marine_60A_Brushless_Boat_ESC ), Hobbywing Seaking 60amp (http://www.hobbyhot.com/hobbywing-seaking-60a-brushless-electric-speed-controller-c-282-p-1-pr-1670.html). These are all the EXACT same esc's with different labels. Notice the venom inflation :Shame_on_You:

[JPriami]

I did notice that when looking at them all. I just wondered cause mines the 70amp and can run up to 6s if the card would work for it. but if it works with the 120amp esc and down to the 60 amp esc i guess im good being in between

[forescott]

That does NOT look like a seahing/turnigy esc to me. water cooling is completely different.

[JPriami]

says DHP on the label? nevermind i dunno wtf that is for sure lol

[JPriami]

here is the sheet it came with for programming

it does say DHP speed controller programming instructions

[forescott]

I cant find any info on the web for this esc?? Anyone else??

[JPriami]

me either. not for programming sheets.

[Diesel6401]

That does NOT look like a seahing/turnigy esc to me. water cooling is completely different.

I take it your refereing to his 70 amp esc, which you are correct that does not look like a seaking. I don't think seaking makes a 70amp esc. I have NO clue WTF that is :confused2:

[LarrysDrifter]

My guess its the same esc as the rest.Maybe it just has a different cooling plate?

[forescott]

Wow! That is complicated. I would read it a couple of times and reset your esc's. Do you set both at the same time or one at a time. I know the ekos sets them both at the same time, but sometimes the esc's dont beep at exactly the same time and it gets really distracting. I disconnect the y-harness and set them individually on mine.

[JPriami]

I should mention the water cooling lines are not like the one in the pic. the sticker is the same. but the cooling lines are run diffrently. they go in and out the same side. and its on the opposite side of the capacitors

[LarrysDrifter]

Do you still have any boat hot rodding funds left?If so,buy two 120 amp esc's and you ll be covered for just about any motor you put in later.Hobbyhot.com sells the SeaKing 120 cheaper with the programming card than with out.

[JPriami]

I set one at a time to make sure i am only hearing one speed controller beeping

[JPriami]

no more boat funds atm. i was sick for 2 weeks and missed work that ate up my boat funds :(

[forescott]

Prime example Venom 60 amp (http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=1398), Turnigy Marine 60amp (http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7360&Product_Name=Turnigy_Marine_60A_Brushless_Boat_ESC ), Hobbywing Seaking 60amp (http://www.hobbyhot.com/hobbywing-seaking-60a-brushless-electric-speed-controller-c-282-p-1-pr-1670.html). These are all the EXACT same esc's with different labels. Notice the venom inflation :Shame_on_You:

Yeah, but those venom decals are expensive!! :zip-up:

[JPriami]

i need a decal machine so i can print up some that say venom and sell them for more

[Diesel6401]

These are the ESC's in it

ESC's are 70 amp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7050.jpg
Specs:
Type - Water Cooled
Voltage - 7.4 - 22.2v (2 - 6 cells lipo)
BEC - 5.5v @ 4 amp
Battery Connector - T-Style

It may be a re-labled/badged Suppo (http://www.suppomodel.com/) with water cooling

[Brushless55]

i need a decal machine so i can print up some that say venom and sell them for more

and call it Venom2
:rofl:

[LarrysDrifter]

Looks like that one too.You have a "mut" esc.

[FighterCat57]

Hota?

Watch the name when you plug in the charger. It's the MFR of the electronics, there are several different cases, models that use those guts.

[FighterCat57]

and call it Venom2
:rofl:

That's the American way... sell the name! Buy the hype! :rockon2::thumbup1::buttrock::doh:

[LarrysDrifter]

Amen brother.Its BS.

[FighterCat57]

These are the ESC's in it

ESC's are 70 amp
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/Jpriami/HEA7050.jpg
Specs:
Type - Water Cooled
Voltage - 7.4 - 22.2v (2 - 6 cells lipo)
BEC - 5.5v @ 4 amp
Battery Connector - T-Style

Try this? This is a very common 70a ESC which different companies water proof and add water cooling to.

[JPriami]

Something is messed up because when i listen to the beeps and the decode sheet it came with. when you go into the option 1 cell type and number of cells. at the bottom of the section/coloum it says there should be one short beep and 7 long beeps fpr 2S li-po 7.4v- 8v cutoff voltage. well it never gets to the 7 long beeps. it stops at the 6 long beeps and start back over to the one short beep and one long beep and goes back through that all the way to one short beep and 6 long beeps. wtf this is lame
btw thanks for the help fighter cat. ill take a look at it

[JPriami]

It may be a re-labled/badged Suppo (http://www.suppomodel.com/) with water cooling

OMFG!!!

Dude I think you maybe right about this being a Suppo.
I have looked at the programming sheet to theirs and its identical to the one i have and guess what. it shows that the 70 amp esc will only support 4S and up to 8S. reason i feel this maybe a for sure thing is because i dont have a musical tone then 7 long beeps in my menu for cell type it only goes to musical tone and 6 long beeps the starts back over to the musical tone and one beep and so on.:cursing:
only other thing diffrent tho is mine has BEC and the ones i see that are so simlair to mine say no bec.


anywho if this is the case and my esc wont do 3S and thats why im having problems running any longer than 3 mins and my batteries are sitting on 12v when i bring the boat back in. Till I can save up the $$ to buy new esc's do you think I can get away with putting the esc's in the nicad/nimh mode and letting it think im running those? wouldnt it think i have like 10 maybe 11 1.2v cells in there and it will limit those by not letting the voltage per cell (weither it counts 12.6v as 10 or 11 cells idk) get below 0.7v that would make my LVC at around or above 7v. But a real LVC set that low would be bad for lipos and something I wouldnt let get that low. I would just run for about 10mins then come in. and this would be the only way i can enjoy the darn thing till i buy new esc's.

[FighterCat57]

Before using brushless ESC's or LVC's, I would use a Low Voltage Buzzer (http://cgi.ebay.com/7-4v-14-8v-RC-Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm-/200509338779?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories#ht _2270wt_911) for voltage protection. They would beep at 3.6v and plug in to the voltage tap leads.

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv171/dangfuan/BB-2-1.jpg?t=1274672329

[JPriami]

Before using brushless ESC's or LVC's, I would use a Low Voltage Buzzer (http://cgi.ebay.com/7-4v-14-8v-RC-Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm-/200509338779?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories#ht _2270wt_911) for voltage protection. They would beep at 3.6v and plug in to the voltage tap leads.

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv171/dangfuan/BB-2-1.jpg?t=1274672329

sounds like a good idea thanks
are they cheap and in the usa so i dont have to wait weeks to get? I ordered my first thing from hobbyking over 2 weeks ago now. still waiting for it. i really like things in the states bought and sold here type deal.

I see the link you poasted thanks.
What do you think about this one?tesla voltage alarm (http://cgi.ebay.com/Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Alarm-Buzzer-indicator-Display-/280550921194?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories)

[Brushless55]

OMFG!!!

Dude I think you maybe right about this being a Suppo.
I have looked at the programming sheet to theirs and its identical to the one i have and guess what. it shows that the 70 amp esc will only support 4S and up to 8S. reason i feel this maybe a for sure thing is because i dont have a musical tone then 7 long beeps in my menu for cell type it only goes to musical tone and 6 long beeps the starts back over to the musical tone and one beep and so on.:cursing:
only other thing diffrent tho is mine has BEC and the ones i see that are so simlair to mine say no bec.


anywho if this is the case and my esc wont do 3S and thats why im having problems running any longer than 3 mins and my batteries are sitting on 12v when i bring the boat back in. Till I can save up the $$ to buy new esc's do you think I can get away with putting the esc's in the nicad/nimh mode and letting it think im running those? wouldnt it think i have like 10 maybe 11 1.2v cells in there and it will limit those by not letting the voltage per cell (weither it counts 12.6v as 10 or 11 cells idk) get below 0.7v that would make my LVC at around or above 7v. But a real LVC set that low would be bad for lipos and something I wouldnt let get that low. I would just run for about 10mins then come in. and this would be the only way i can enjoy the darn thing till i buy new esc's.

Keep in mind, when the boat is under a load while you are running it, the batteries are ging to be under the 12v mark and be well into 11v or possible even high 10s
so if the lvc is set to 3.3v per cell on 4s, you would not even get 3min of runtime.. It would even run at all

[JPriami]

it says the lvc for 4S is 12v. and after my 3min of runtime on my 3s packs i come in and the packs are at 12v. kinda blows cause 9v should be the cutoff for 3s. but since my esc's wont do 3s and the lowest they will do is 4s im screwed.

[FighterCat57]

sounds like a good idea thanks
are they cheap and in the usa so i dont have to wait weeks to get? I ordered my first thing from hobbyking over 2 weeks ago now. still waiting for it. i really like things in the states bought and sold here type deal.

I see the link you poasted thanks.
What do you think about this one?tesla voltage alarm (http://cgi.ebay.com/Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Alarm-Buzzer-indicator-Display-/280550921194?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories)

Oh, I don't know anything about them, just posted a random search link for reference. I use the same kind as the one I linked to. I think all the ones from china come from the same factory... It's a simple circuit, so I'm sure just about any will do OK.

[FighterCat57]

it says the lvc for 4S is 12v. and after my 3min of runtime on my 3s packs i come in and the packs are at 12v. kinda blows cause 9v should be the cutoff for 3s. but since my esc's wont do 3s and the lowest they will do is 4s im screwed.

Can you turn off the LVC?

They also make external LVC circuits that you can put in place between your ESC and Rx.

[Brushless55]

it says the lvc for 4S is 12v. and after my 3min of runtime on my 3s packs i come in and the packs are at 12v. kinda blows cause 9v should be the cutoff for 3s. but since my esc's wont do 3s and the lowest they will do is 4s im screwed.

The 12v is at rest
when under a load they will be well under 12v and shut the sytem off completely
it could be possible the esc is set to 2.8v per cell (under load).. 11.2v on 4s and that could be the issue
and a reason you come back with 12v in your 3s packs

[Brushless55]

Can you turn off the LVC?

They also make external LVC circuits that you can put in place between your ESC and Rx.

Should be a way to do this.. :thumbup1:

[JPriami]

The 12v is at rest
when under a load they will be well under 12v and shut the sytem off completely

I smell what your cooking. But im about 99% sure that the esc's are not what they say they are in being 2-6 cell ones. because even in the programming menu when you listen to the tone and following beeps there is a area missing to turn the 2 cell option on. it completely skips that part. and i found a data sheet for programming another esc that we think is the same one but has a marine heatsink on it with identical programming menus and it says the 70amp esc's are 4-8 cell and according to the tones its sending out and looking at the decode sheet its apparant that it isnt the esc its supposed to be (2-6 cell). i wish i could explain that a little better it would be easier if one where here to hear what its doing and looking at the decode sheets.

[JPriami]

found this LVC lvc on the bay (http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Li-SAVER-Low-Voltage-Cut-off-Unit-LiPo-Packs-/370413881015?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories) but for $25 and i would need 2. i would rather put that $ towards new esc's :thumbup1:

[Brushless55]

I smell what your cooking. But im about 99% sure that the esc's are not what they say they are in being 2-6 cell ones. because even in the programming menu when you listen to the tone and following beeps there is a area missing to turn the 2 cell option on. it completely skips that part. and i found a data sheet for programming another esc that we think is the same one but has a marine heatsink on it with identical programming menus and it says the 70amp esc's are 4-8 cell and according to the tones its sending out and looking at the decode sheet its apparant that it isnt the esc its supposed to be (2-6 cell). i wish i could explain that a little better it would be easier if one where here to hear what its doing and looking at the decode sheets.

see if there is an option to remove the lvc
I use a watt meter on my 3D planes all the time to see what prop gives awesome 3D power
I've found that some of my packs will go to 10.8v when I run a static test with big props and this is on 3s
but when I let off and the packs are at rest they come back up in volts to 12v+
all depends on amp load and how much your packs can put out to maintain good volts
so far my Turnigy 2200mah 25c packs maintain higher volts that gives me more watts and rpm for faster and more aggressive 3D flying :rockon2:

[JPriami]

I understand that when under a load the volatge will drop more than when the system is at rest. I wish I had a logging system to read what its doing. then i could prove it other than people taking my word cause apparently thats not enough lol (i can relate tho because there is a bunch of bad info to be found online and im just another screen name in the sea). but being a whole selection is missing in the esc's programming menu thats pretty suspicious. and thats why i am really leaning towards it thinks im running 4S and cutting it off when the packs hit under 12v.
they are nice new packs hyperions 3s 5000mAh 45C they should be kicking butt

[Brushless55]

The 12v is at rest
when under a load they will be well under 12v and shut the sytem off completely
it could be possible the esc is set to 2.8v per cell (under load).. 11.2v on 4s and that could be the issue
and a reason you come back with 12v in your 3s packs

take off the lvc
:sleep:

[JPriami]

i dont think it can be turned off completely. there is nothing in the menu saying it can be turned off. I think the best that can be done is turn on the nicad/nimh mode at 0.7v per cell lvc

[FighterCat57]

i dont think it can be turned off completely. there is nothing in the menu saying it can be turned off. I think the best that can be done is turn on the nicad/nimh mode at 0.7v per cell lvc

Yeah, that would essentially turn it off. Then use an external LVC or Low Voltage Buzzer.

Alternatively you could replace the motors with a lower KV and run 4 -5s. :thumbup1:

[JPriami]

I plan on running 4S in the boat on my next lipo purchase. the motors are good up to 4S. honeslty i wish i would have just ordered 4S packs off the bat and this wouldnt have been a problem.
I ordered some low voltage buzzers just now. I will run the boat in the nicad mode and use those for now. will sell my bigger heli and use that $ towards new esc's. then later more lipos so i have 2 sets of lipos i can use. then later new motors. then props. then onto a new boat project.

[Brushless55]

i dont think it can be turned off completely. there is nothing in the menu saying it can be turned off. I think the best that can be done is turn on the nicad/nimh mode at 0.7v per cell lvc

That's it, Perfect!
now go give it a whirl! :banana:

[Team Jericho]

Looks sweet! Might as well take out the engines and use them as paper weights if you are planning to run 4Ss :) Feigao 380 9XLs are great for this boat. Where did you order it?

[JPriami]

Got it from Elite Models Ltd in the UK.

Here is some data on the motors. best i can tell from looking at that one can run up to 5S on the motors?

[JPriami]

Ran the boat before grocery shopping today. count down timer timed it for 9 mins to remind me incase i lost track. Ran it for about 8.5 mins good running then brough the boat back in. It ran good and strong that whole time. check the lipo voltages with my multimeters after i took it out of the water. 11.3v on each lipo pack. Packs were barely warm. the wires going to the esc's were pretty warm. but they are smaller ga wire than the ones on the packs.
Just got home to check the indvidual cell voltage anf they are sitting at 3.8v each.

Im happy that i got to run for more than 3 mins today :)

darn rudder bent tho lol. must of hit a stick. now i am going to work on making the motors turn the boat by controlling each motor and esc seperatly and see how it handles like that. If it does good I may just take the rudder off. Im using an 8ch 2.4Ghz radio so I have the extra needed to do this and being 2 stick controller it should be easy. I hope lol. I'd try it out tonight but its off to my cousins little boys birthday party

[FighterCat57]

I've been wanting to try rudderless with a V-Tail mixer. So far it works on the bench, but haven't gotten around to testing it just yet.

[FighterCat57]

Actually, I have an extra V-tail mixer if you want to try it.

[JPriami]

maybe. I was going to try the mixing in the radio itself first.

[Brushless55]

Ran the boat before grocery shopping today. count down timer timed it for 9 mins to remind me incase i lost track. Ran it for about 8.5 mins good running then brough the boat back in. It ran good and strong that whole time. check the lipo voltages with my multimeters after i took it out of the water. 11.3v on each lipo pack. Packs were barely warm. the wires going to the esc's were pretty warm. but they are smaller ga wire than the ones on the packs.
Just got home to check the indvidual cell voltage anf they are sitting at 3.8v each.
Im happy that i got to run for more than 3 mins today :)



Well looky there :hug1:
the escs do work on 3s just like we knew they would :Peace_Sign:

[JPriami]

well i have it set upto test tomorrow hopefully. I have 2 seperate throttles on 2 sepperate sticks. and I can flip a switch and run both throttles 100% off one stick if i want. or flip another switch and run the throttle off either stick 100%. and i flip another switch i make the rudder work off both horizontal movements of the 2 sticks so i can use either one to use the rudder if i need it.

[Diesel6401]

Yeah, but those venom decals are expensive!! :zip-up:

:rofl:

[Brushless55]

I think Venom charges 50bucks per decal :bounce:

[Diesel6401]

OMFG!!!

Dude I think you maybe right about this being a Suppo.

:thumbup1:


I think Venom charges 50bucks per decal :bounce:

Is Venom the new "DARE I SAY :tape:" G-Freak :spy:

Gotta love the $$$ mark up :thumbsdown:

[Brushless55]

:

Is Venom the new "DARE I SAY :tape:" G-Freak :spy:

Gotta love the $$$ mark up :thumbsdown:

All I have to say is I love Hobbycity! :beerchug:

[JPriami]

Well looky there :hug1:
the escs do work on 3s just like we knew they would :Peace_Sign:
I just wish they had a real setting for 3S and LVC cutoff for 3S. Running on nicad mode just to get by is worrysome. hopefully my low voltage alarms will come soon so i dont wreck my packs by accident running in nicad mode.:doh:

[Brushless55]

keep a tab on your times and all will be good!
I don't use LVC on anything I own.. like my UL-1 the LVC is set way to low from the factory, so I time all my runs
even my Kick Butt ERevo with a 6XL motor I don't use a LVC
have you charged your packs yet? when you do make a note of how much Mah you put back to give you an idea of how much total run time you will have

[Diesel6401]

All I have to say is I love Hobbycity! :beerchug:

:iagree:

[Brushless55]

Traxxas hates Hobbycity..
when you type anything about hobbycity it comes up blank and when you link something from HC they delete the item out of your thread :ThumbsDown01:

[JPriami]

I am charging the packs now. but i do a slow charge at 1 amp. it timed out on me at 120mins. I forgot there was a time limit set.
I will keep track of the run times. I may set an alarm in my transmitter to warn me after a certain amount of time.
I am thinking now i may just use the money i was planing on new esc's to get new 4S packs. that way I have at least 2 diffrent sets of packs to run. because its about a 30 min drive to the closest decent size body of water. and it would be nice to pend a little time there once i got there

[JPriami]

the metal that hold the rudder on is a POS!

Aluminum Rudder with water pickup (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80050) this work? i think it maybe too long

[FighterCat57]

the metal that hold the rudder on is a POS!

Aluminum Rudder with water pickup (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80050) this work? i think it maybe too long

Yes... yes it is. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=16091

You can go bigger on the rudder, should be OK.

[JPriami]

thanks. ive hit a turtle before in my sv27. no good :( nice rudder you found

[JPriami]

ok note to self. stop running boats that are too fast for the little pond in the little pond. bad things happen

[Diesel6401]

thanks. ive hit a turtle before in my sv27. no good :( nice rudder you found

Use a nylon bolt for the bottom hole on the rudder so it breaks when u hit something.


Unless you hit a turtle with ul doing 50+ :doh:

[Brushless55]

I am charging the packs now. but i do a slow charge at 1 amp. it timed out on me at 120mins. I forgot there was a time limit set.
I will keep track of the run times. I may set an alarm in my transmitter to warn me after a certain amount of time.
I am thinking now i may just use the money i was planing on new esc's to get new 4S packs. that way I have at least 2 diffrent sets of packs to run. because its about a 30 min drive to the closest decent size body of water. and it would be nice to pend a little time there once i got there

I would charge at the full 1c or better on your lipos
they will have a tad better punch :beerchug:
I'm curious to know how many amps you are putting back with that good run time?

[JPriami]

I will see what happens tonight when I charge them again.

I'd really like to get a dual pickup rudder and try that out instead of the cutting holes in the bottom of the boat for those cool water pickups i see that are out of stock (dual ones). I cant seem to find one for this size boat. Thought about buying the bigger speedmaster one and cutting it down a bit. but it would still be too long i bet

[FighterCat57]

I will see what happens tonight when I charge them again.

I'd really like to get a dual pickup rudder and try that out instead of the cutting holes in the bottom of the boat for those cool water pickups i see that are out of stock (dual ones). I cant seem to find one for this size boat. Thought about buying the bigger speedmaster one and cutting it down a bit. but it would still be too long i bet

I had the same problem. Hard to find one the right length. The one I'm using is a little short, but I only do sport runs and works well enough for me.

I have a pair of the in hull pick ups if you need them.

[JPriami]

ordered some turnigy 4S packs. now to wait. i wonder how long it takes to get stuff from Hobbyking thu EMS express? im still waiting on battery connectors i bought 2 weeks ago but that was regular airmail.

[JPriami]

I would charge at the full 1c or better on your lipos
they will have a tad better punch :beerchug:
I'm curious to know how many amps you are putting back with that good run time?


ran again today after work for about 8.5mins then brought it back in. I have a timer on my radio remind me. It ran good and strong the whole way through.
I just finished charging the first pack and you wanted to know what mAh its putting back into the packs. the software says 4059mAh. Past couple times i have charged the packs at 5-4amps.

[forescott]

Thats a good amount of run time. How's the heat??

[LarrysDrifter]

I bought a SpeedMaster rudder/mount made for a mino hydro for my EKOS.Filled in the stock holes,and drill new ones for the mount.Works awsome.I recommend it for a replacement.

[FighterCat57]

I bought a SpeedMaster rudder/mount made for a mino hydro for my EKOS.Filled in the stock holes,and drill new ones for the mount.Works awsome.I recommend it for a replacement.

Cool, link?

[JPriami]

Thats a good amount of run time. How's the heat??

I didnt bring my IR temp with me today. but when i pulled it out of the water and onto the dock the first thing i do is untape and open it up to disconnect batts. the motors and esc were barely warm. And the batteries were about the same, barely warm.

[LarrysDrifter]

I think you can get them from Gravesrc.com.Might have to google them to get the correct web address.They are in Florida too!Fast shipping for Fightercat.I bought mine from Phil Thomas at the district 6 race in Illinois a couple months ago.Its also has a breakaway .You can see pics of it on my EKOS on the SeaKing 120 thread here in the EKOS part.They cost around $40 or so,but they are worth it.Graves has em for about the same price.I think it just says mini hydro on the package.Hope this helps.

[JPriami]

just finished sharpening my venom pro machined props. I noticed that the edge on them was blunt and squared.:doh:

[Brushless55]

ran again today after work for about 8.5mins then brought it back in. I have a timer on my radio remind me. It ran good and strong the whole way through.
I just finished charging the first pack and you wanted to know what mAh its putting back into the packs. the software says 4059mAh. Past couple times i have charged the packs at 5-4amps.

Thanks for the info :beerchug:

[JPriami]

I was thinking of making a harness for the batteries and the esc's to connect a little differently. And I'd like some other input on it.
I plan on making the 2 lipo batteries connect in parallel so that the packs voltage is the same but the packs capacity (mAh) is doubled (5000mAh x 2 = 10000mAh). I want to do this so that both packs are run down equally since the setup on these boats is 2 separate motors and 2 separate speed controls. Also because I have my radio system setup to drive each motor individually for maneuvering & testing purposes. Another reason I want to do this is from what I read on C ratings and how they work that by doing this you may save your packs from damage of puffing if you pull more than the single packs C rating.
Example of the last part explained:
One 11.1v 5000mAh 20C pack
5000mAh = 5 amps
5 amps x 20 = 100 amps continuous discharge
------
Two 11.1v 5000mAh 20C packs wired in parallel = 10000mAh /10amps
10 amps x 20 = 200 amps continuous discharge

I may have forgotten part of my electrical theory that’s why I am asking others who have it fresh in their heads so I can get input/feedback and double check my idea before I try it.

[Brushless55]

You are correct about the parallel setup having double amps but keep in mind you are still feeding two motors..
so its really about the same, but this will help things be more consistent
you still have 5000mah per motor = 10,000mah (parallel) for two motors
your setup right now is pulling 28amps cont per motor or 56amps totall :smile:

[JPriami]

First vid i have made of it. The vid was of the whole runtime but I had to cut it down to fit. im on a limited internet bandwith also. At one point in the vid i had the little camera on the boat clipped to the metal antenna stub. But the wind just about blew it off the boat. I have a mount I am going to use next time I get to run it. Also there was some weed in the water today and kept getting caught on my rudder. had to bring it back in a few times to check and make sure it was off.

OPEQcnAsRP0

[Rumdog]

Looks good!

[forescott]

Nice! If you can, mount the camera facing backwards. It makes for an awesome vid with the dual drive roost!

[JPriami]

Thanks. I might try that.

[JPriami]

There is something up with my left side driveline. I dont know if its the strut and a bearing or what. When the props spinning at certain rpm ranges it has a vibration to it. Even with the prop off it seems to make more noise than the other side.

[Bug777]

Remove your wire drive as well. This will show if there is something in the engine as well.

[JPriami]

what strut angles seem to work well for other owners of these boats? The water I run is is pretty calm on a lake. I was running + 1.5 and now I have set it to about +2 (props pointing upwards to force nose of boat up to get more out of the water). But I havent run it with this setup yet.

[Skullcracken]

You ainta kiddin there.I have about $600 in my EKOS upgrading everything.But now its fast and fun.Untill I wreked bad Monday.Went 66mph and got air.You can get wires from rcraceboat.som.They go right in.Should be the same for your boat as the EKOS.

What are good replacement motors for the EKOS. I was considering buying another blackjack motor and replacing the EKOS stock motors, and run 4s to each. I'd like to get mine 55mph+. Any suggestions.

[forescott]

Feigao 380-9 or 10xl's. Here @ OSE

[Diesel6401]

Feigao 380-9 or 10xl's. Here @ OSE

:iagree:
380 9xl or 10xl (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=fei-380-xL&cat=116), or the ammo 28-45's (http://kintecracing.com/Venom_King_of_Shaves_ZZDN.html). The fiegao's would prob be better JMO. I don't own the boat.

[forescott]

I've had both. The feigaos have more power, and they are cheaper! BUT......you need bigger esc's with the feigao xl's. The ammos will run on the stock 60-amp esc's.

[Diesel6401]

I've had both. The feigaos have more power, and they are cheaper! BUT......you need bigger esc's with the feigao xl's. The ammos will run on the stock 60-amp esc's.

Good info buddy!

[JPriami]

I completely took apart my struts to find the noise I was hearing. I think it was a combination of things. One was a found a bearing thats bad. it spins but feels like there is a flat spot on the bearing when you spin it. The other part of the noise I may have been hearing was where the ball joint screws into the strut tube. both ball joints were very loose where they screw together. I'm going to loctite those together. Now Im waiting on a new set of bearings before I put it together. But I did get my wire drives today :D

[JPriami]

I've had both. The feigaos have more power, and they are cheaper! BUT......you need bigger esc's with the feigao xl's. The ammos will run on the stock 60-amp esc's.

Will the feigaos 9xl's run on a 80amp esc?

[LarrysDrifter]

Will the feigaos 9xl's run on a 80amp esc?

Im pretty sure they will be ok on and 80 amp esc's.If you go with the 120's you ll have more motor options later and they will run very cool with the 380 9 or 10xl's.I ran my EKOS with x442 props on the 10xl's and esc temps got to 117 degrees.Nice and cool.

[JPriami]

pulled my motors out to get ready to put new couplers on for wire drives. Found a 2881Kv sticker on them. So once again the boat I bought didnt come with what it was advertised as having in it.

[Brushless55]

pulled my motors out to get ready to put new couplers on for wire drives. Found a 2881Kv sticker on them. So once again the boat I bought didnt come with what it was advertised as having in it.

remember they all come from the same place
and STICKERS :w00t:

[JPriami]

Lol.. stickers seem to add Horse power to those rice burner cars too.

[Brushless55]

Lol.. stickers seem to add Horse power to those rice burner cars too.

Ohhhh man!
:rofl:

[JPriami]

Im pretty sure they will be ok on and 80 amp esc's.If you go with the 120's you ll have more motor options later and they will run very cool with the 380 9 or 10xl's.I ran my EKOS with x442 props on the 10xl's and esc temps got to 117 degrees.Nice and cool.

My mistake they are 70 amp esc's. do you think the feigaos 9xl's will be ok on those escs? I see the 9xl's are rated at 47 amps?

[LarrysDrifter]

They might be ok.Its worth a shot.Running in a twin,the motors dont work nearly as hard as a single drive.So the amp pull would obvioulsy be less.Theres only a 269kv difference between your stock motors and the 9xl's.The main thing is the amp draw difference.Which I dont know what it is.I think you can run the 9xl's on the 70 amp esc's.Just watch temps and prop small to start.

[JPriami]

smallest props i have are the 36mm. mine didnt come with 32mm props.
maybe i should lean towards the 10xl?

[LarrysDrifter]

Those will be fine.I think Steve has the 9xl's and jackets in stock now.

[JPriami]

yeah he does. am im trying to sell my heli to pay for that stuff lol

[LarrysDrifter]

Didnt you say you only have two 3s batteries too?

[LarrysDrifter]

yeah he does. am im trying to sell my heli to pay for that stuff lol

I heard that.I ve had my Hydra 120 in the swap shop for 2 months now.No buyers.

[JPriami]

Yes I have two 3S 5000mAh 45C packs. and I have two 4S 4500mAh 25C turngity nanos in shipping

[JPriami]

is it not good to run the 9xl's on the 3S packs or something?:confused2:

[LarrysDrifter]

The 10xl's will give you more torque,but youll get more rpm with the 9's.I never had any problem with torque running the 9's in my EKOS.I know your wanting to up grade,but if you can,wait and get the 120 amp esc's.You ll be able to prop up in the future without having to worry about cooking stuff.Sorry for beating you with the 120 thing,but I think youll be happier in the end.

[LarrysDrifter]

Its ok to run 3s with the Fiageo motors,you just wont have much power.You should also run at least a 5.5mm bullet on all connections with your 4s and new motors too.Do every thing you can to increase the reliability.

[LarrysDrifter]

Where did you get your new bearings from?

[JPriami]

no problem.. honestly im pretty PO with this boat. being the esc's are not exactly what they are advertized nor are the motors. and losing the wire drive today sucked on its first run. I am almost thinking I want to sell all of it and just buy the traxxas titan. all I'd want to upgrade on that would be the stut bearing and maybe another prop then be done with it. this catamaran is nice and all but im a little sick of throwing money at it to make it go 50mph. today i decided that if i can just sell my heli and buy the new motors and water jackets that with the new lipos coming and 40mm CF props i will be in the 50mph range and happy. but if I have to spend another $200 on top of the motors to have bigger esc's to get to 50mph safely im thinking i dont want the boat and I could just buy another one that will go 50

[JPriami]

Where did you get your new bearings from? Kintecracing.. under the ekos section

[JPriami]

Its ok to run 3s with the Fiageo motors,you just wont have much power.You should also run at least a 5.5mm bullet on all connections with your 4s and new motors too.Do every thing you can to increase the reliability.

these are the battery connectors I am using.
HXT 4mm Gold Connector w/ Protector (10pcs/set) (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283)

[LarrysDrifter]

You really should be ok with the stock esc's.I like to go overboard on the esc amp wise just to be safe.Forescott's EKOS run mid and hi 50's with the CF 40's on 4s.Plenty fast for "our" hulls.Youll be fine with temps.Just check temps 1st time out frequently then you know you can run it for a good while next time without having to pull in to check temps alot.Twin drives dont pull the amps like a single and create quit a bit less heat in the whole system.Each motor only has to work half as hard.

[JPriami]

did you see cracks in your hull after going over 60mph? if so where?

[LarrysDrifter]

Those connectors should be good enough.That s the same ones I used on mine but without the protectors.They came stock on the motors and esc's.Never had a prob.I need bearings too.Was seeing if you got the Boca bearings.

[JPriami]

i didnt know where to get the boca's. i tried to find better bearing and found some but i wasnt sure about them fitting right. do you know of some site to get ones that fit that are better?

[LarrysDrifter]

Look at the SeaKing 120 thread on the last page.Youll see the hole in the sponson tip.The hull is cracked all over from front to back.Most go all the way through.I think Bill Oxydean has a build thread on his EKOS and he installed Boca bearings in his.He posted a link to the correct part numbers that fit the stock stingers.I think his thread is called upgrade motors for EKOS.Id post you a link,but I dont know how to.

[LarrysDrifter]

I keep getting kicked off line using the hotels internet.Its bullspit.

[LarrysDrifter]

Trying to find his build thread.I think FighterCat used them in his also.He could probably tell you what you need.Id like to know myself.

[JPriami]

I know y ur on the forums then. Can't sleep in a hotel if your like me. Need my own bed

[LarrysDrifter]

Yeah,it sucks.Never can sleep.Then have to get up and bust ass all day.Then repeat for 4 nights and days.FighterCat posted this a while back.These are part numbers for the boca bearings that fit the stock stingers.They are a little pricey though.Im sure your getting used to that by now with running FE.
Flanged:SMF74C-YUU NB2
Non Flanged:SMR74C-YUU NB2
You will need two of each.

[LarrysDrifter]

Something else you could do is put in the dual water pickups in the sponsons and cool each motor and esc independently instead of relying on the rudder to cool 4 things at once.Forescott and me put them in ours and they work awsome.They arent expensive either.

[JPriami]

Cool thanks. I'll order some next time(bearings). I haven't looked at the price yet tho lol.

[JPriami]

I like those water pickups u guys have. Just none in stock.

[JPriami]

I ordered the 9xl's and cooling jackets. I was worried by the time i got the heli sold they would be out of stock.

[LarrysDrifter]

Hope you sell it soon.Doesnt seem like the land and air stuff sells too well here.I found the same pickups on another site.I think its rcwordwide.com.check on there.And its in china of course.Mite be better off just waiting till steve gets them back.Dont seem like he s out of stock on those for too long.

[JPriami]

Thanks for finding them for me. I'll wait for Steven to get them. I'd rather buy in the USA. I'm really turned off by this ordering from china crap. Takes to long for me lol. Took hobby king a week just to get te stuff I order in the mail then weeks waiting for the mail.

[LarrysDrifter]

Yeah, its a love thing with the prices,but a hate thing with shipping times.You ll like the 9xl's.They run pretty good.I couldnt believe the low heat with them being 2 pole motors.

[JPriami]

Motors that came in my boat are 2 pole I think. An they run cool. Thinking about running the stock ones on 4s when I get them. And seeing how that works out first. I am going to Y off the 2 cooling lines (one line per side) and run fresh cool water to the escs and motors from the Y connector. Instead of running into the escs first then the motors.

[LarrysDrifter]

Be careful running the cooling lines that way with the 9xl's and the stock speedos.You mite wanna run the lines the factory way to make sure the esc's get cooled efficiently.With electric,always cool the esc first then the motor.Or you could try the Y first then check temps.If the esc's are getting too warm,put the lines back to stock.

[JPriami]

well crap I just finished the new routing lol. whats too hot in an esc? again im from gas/nitro so the electric is new waters

[LarrysDrifter]

Try your new routing 1st.It mite be fine.Dont worry about it.Just check temps.150 seems to be the max for an esc.You arent doing anything wrong by re routing your lines.I always error on the side of safety.Your 1st run with the new motors should be all about checking temps.Id check till your dont running.Youll go threw some tape,but you need to know what the temps are.I think steve is online now.Send him a pm and ask him when the dual water pickups will be in.He is usually quick to respond.

[JPriami]

here is a diagram of how I routed the cooling lines using 4 Y connectors. I also put slightly larger diameter tubing on the exit side of the escs.

Also I needed new thrust washers being im going back to cable drives for a little while. I lost one in the wire drive loss. So I made 2 out of some plastic ends I had to one of my old planes. had to drill it out and cut a stub off the end. think they will work ok? They are a bit thicker than the stock ones but I have moved the couplers on the motors forward to give more of a bit on the cables. because my stock couplers have 2 screws that grab the cable anyways.

[LarrysDrifter]

Your cooling should be fine.Check the set screw very often on the couplers.Mine backed out constantly.The washers will work too.Just make sure you still have a flat spot on the stub shaft for the set srew in the drive dog.I thought you wrecked your rudder mount?

[LarrysDrifter]

Wouldnt be a bad idea to run the larger tubing on all of the cooling system too.I use 1/4"od.Works good.

[JPriami]

I did destroy my rudder mount. But I restore old cars for a living so fixing things and fabrication is my nack. But the metal is weakened from being bent up and bent back. So if I hit something again I dont think it will hold up to well.

[JPriami]

I need more of the larger tubing. I only had a little extra. i ordered some of the smaller tubing cause thats all that was in stock here on OSE. but its smaller than what came on my boat. I would have ordered the larger tubing but its out of stock atm. its on my list along with the dual water pickups

[LarrysDrifter]

I did destroy my rudder mount. But I restore old cars for a living so fixing things and fabrication is my nack. But the metal is weakened from being bent up and bent back. So if I hit something again I dont think it will hold up to well.

Sweet.I have a 70 chevelle that I am restoring.I replaced everything on it except the roof,rockers and floor pans.Was my 1st major build.Turned out nice.Did you go to gravesrc.com and look at the Speedmaster hardware?I put a rudder and mount for a mini hydro on my EKOS and has held up great.I has a break a way too.You have to drill new holes for the mount after filling the original holes.

[LarrysDrifter]

I like ordering from ose too,but you might want to look at your local hobby shop for tubing.I bought an butt load from HobbyTown that was going out of business.The LHS usually have it on spools and you can get as much as you want.Dont get the fuel tubing for nitros though.Its a little stiffer.

[JPriami]

MY LHS isnt much. I would like to open a good one around here one day later down the road.

[JPriami]

70 chevelle nice ride :D

[LarrysDrifter]

Thanks.Im going home tomorrow,so Ill look for that programming card.The sticker on the face of it is for cars,but the directions give a diagram for the parameters.If you look on Kintec,you can see the 4 options on his.Its the same card I have just a different sticker.When are you supposed to get your motors?

[JPriami]

IDk. ordered them today. I want them but im not going to put them in right away. going to test the diffrent cooling with the stock setup and see how that goes. got my CF 40mm props today so I might give them a try on the stock stuff. I have my struts up on the ends about 2 deg. thats helping get more of the boat out of the water and also more of the prop out of the water to unload it I think. im still waiting on the new lipos too. and bearing lol and maybe new wire drives if i order more soon. guess if i sell the heli now it will be for new esc's. stupid boat is eatting my wallet. or is that my need for speed fix doing it? i dunno oh well. lol..

[LarrysDrifter]

Both eat your wallet.I have close to $1000 in my EKOS.Damn near make me sick when my wife added everything up for the credit card.

[JPriami]

We are off to a good start this morning. got my drive dogs, new 4S lipos new motors and cooling jackets.:rockon2:
I wont be putting the new motors in just yet I want to test the new cooling line routing first. but hey the new 4S lipos fit like a glove.:banana:

[JPriami]

New cooling system routing seems to work well.
The 40mm CF props do great. made it run faster on the 11.1v lipos. looked like it was going to be insane on the 14.8v lipos but I lost one of the props in less than a min of the 14.8v testing.
Here is a vid of the 14.8 lipos and the 36mm props. I would have strapped my gps on it but I was kind of rushed as I had my wife and son with me and we were going grocery shopping after I was finished. And my 13 month old son was getting bored and mad because he couldnt play in the water.

Bxg13vML6Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Bxg13vML6Q

There are a couple other vids at this link. one short on of the 14.8v & 40mm's and one of the 11.v and 40mm's
http://www.youtube.com/user/Pomenis?feature=mhum

[JPriami]

GPS readings from today's runs. Stock 70amp esc's and stock motors.
11.1v 36mm props 40.9mph
14.8v 36mm props 55.8mph

When I get my other cf 40mm prop to replace one I lost I'll see what the gps says.
Got some nice pics to post later when we get back.

Oh it's been a good run for the day.

[FighterCat57]

Nicely done!

[JPriami]

Few pics from today

[LarrysDrifter]

Looks good!Nice to hear you got 55 out of it on stock stuff.I mite have to get some of those 40mm props.

[Skullcracken]

[QUOTE=JPriami;217126]I ordered a Dragon Saga cat from the UK this week. I did a bunch of looking around to find the specs of everything and now I might be heading for trouble. because I was originally going to buy the new EKOS with the new outrunners. at that time I ordered new lipos for the boat and 36mm machine props by venom. But I ended up getting this other boat thats a clone of it because I liked the paint better because its not the EKOS paint job like everyone else has. So I want to know whats best or has been proven to work best to upgrade things like the motors in the EKOS boats.

Not really an EKOS clone. Identical hull and manufacturer. Difference is Venom is paying for licensing with King of Shaves. Love the look of that boat but I'm into replica boats. That one is a "one off" reproduction which u probably know. It is a model of the Segad C1 1995 offshore but says "Saga" on the side. Another cat with the same hull is the Jollymotor. Dragon makes this RC hull also. The real boat says Jollymotor on the side but the Dragon hull says "Mini Cat." link:
http://www.jethobby.com.sg/cgi-bin/ezsite/prod/manager.cgi?action=show&pid=1795&cid=47&idx=1&gid=3.
Great hulls though.

[Skullcracken]

I run a pair of these on the stock ESC's 3s/4s w/32mm props and get about 53mph out of it. The motors have 19 &25mm spaced mount holes and mount in the stock position.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5146

Order a pair of Jeff's EKOS wire drives and Couplers. Best drive available IMO.

HTH- Good Luck!

Do you mean u ran those motors on 3s or 4s batteries? Whats the difference with those and the stock motors. Slightly lower KV (stock 2880 kv) and yours are 2700. How are you gaining >10mph?

[FighterCat57]

Do you mean u ran those motors on 3s or 4s batteries? Whats the difference with those and the stock motors. Slightly lower KV (stock 2880 kv) and yours are 2700. How are you gaining >10mph?

4s, 32mm props. The motors are high rpm low torque, I unloaded them and let them spin up. There's a thread with my results as I was testing. The stock Venom motors didn't last long enough to test...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=14252

It eats bearings at high rpm though.

[JPriami]

I had one of the stock plastic cooling jackets break Friday when I changed the cooling tubing out and run thing slightly different so the esc and motors have their own outlets.
So I just put the new 380 9xl motors and the aluminum jackets in Friday night. Along with the CF 40mm props and some loctite on the prop nut so I don't loose another prop. Tested Saturday without the gps. Ran good. But it was a bit windy. I caught some wind and the boat went airborne and did a flip in the air. But it managed to land and be rightened up thank you sea gods! Cause I wasn't wanting to go get a flipped boat. After that I brought her back in for the day. Went home and checked for damage. None luckly.
Today's gps test.
9xl's/11.1v lipo/40mm = 45.4 MPH
9xl's/14.8v lipo/40mm = 61.5 MPH


I have some video but it's not to great cause it's off my phone. I will try to clean it up some and post later when I get time.

Good day today :D


video page here. (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=17871)

[LarrysDrifter]

Did you try the programming card yet?

[JPriami]

It won't work on my esc's. :(

[LarrysDrifter]

Damn!That sucks.I guess send it back when you get a chance.

[JPriami]

Ok. You will have to pm address or txt it to me