Flexdrive cable adjustment

[shotimes95]

How much grease do i use on the flex shaft? I know too much is not good and not enough is just as bad. Also when looking at the cable when it passes through the hull, the cable is not centered in the tube thats part of the boat. Its at the top and im not sure if thats incorrect or will ruin my hull? The boat has only been used twice and i want to make sure everything is right before i run it with the new lipos.

Does anyone have a picture with the shaft properly adjusted?

Also is it best to use timing on high or low when using the x642? I have it programmed at high right now but dont want to burn ur the electrics up. The boat is stock except for Darins tweaks on the fins.

Thanks in advance!!

[forescott]

Start out with low timing and check you're heat after a couple of minutes. The 642 is a popular prop choice for the fastech, and should be fine. As far as the stuffing tube goes, are you talking about the motor end or the prop shaft end?

[shotimes95]

Prop shaft end. The flexshaft wasn't even greased from the factory!

[forescott]

Can you loosen the strut and adjust it up or down a touch until the flex shaft centers where it exits the brass tube?

[forescott]

More lube is better than not enough. Kinda hard to put too much because most of the excess will come of as you slide it back into the stuffing tube. I've never had issues caused by too much lube. If you're using the right kind you shouldn't have any problems.

[shotimes95]

I adjusted the cable and centered it and it looks great! The grease I used, until the proboat grease and gun come in was TRI FLOW. Its a clear synthetic grease thats waterprrof for packed bearings, cable assemblies and gaskets. I hope it doesnt load the motor and burn it up...

[Deserthobbies]

mine always seems to break the solder joint loose, it only seems to happen if i have a little positive angle on the strut.

[Deserthobbies]

here is where it spins loose.

[shotimes95]

Great advice! I saved myself some trouble by noticing it up front lol This forum is soo good!

[shotimes95]

Thats on the motor side rite?

[Deserthobbies]

no its on the other end , the prop shaft goes into that coupling in the photo. ill upgrade it if OSE has a new strut and propshaft that will work. i have never spun it loose from the motor end in the collet.

[shotimes95]

ok i got ya... had to look at the boat. its still new, only had it for a month or so. When i pulled my cable out it was completely dry and after i lubed it, it was so much quieter. go figure

[shotimes95]

do you need a pair of 4200mah proboat batteries only used twice? I bought the boat on my honeymoon and they didnt have the programmer card so i bought them instead until the card came in.

[Deserthobbies]

guess ill just clean it up and silver solder it with some 15 percent silver solder, drill a small hole all the way through it and drive a small pin in it. sure would like to put a 3/16 strut and driveline on it and i can throw them little brass prop adapters away. LOL

Steve or anyone else that reads this can you steer me straight on a upgrade. ?

[Deserthobbies]

do you need a pair of 4200mah proboat batteries only used twice? I bought the boat on my honeymoon and they didnt have the programmer card so i bought them instead until the card came in.

how much, im sure my friend will take them for his, I run lipos in mine thanks.

[shotimes95]

Ive soldered things like that before and using the hole drilled into either side will allow the solder to flow into the joint as long as the temp gets hot enough. In my opinion a pin may not be needed but theres alot of guys on here that know more than i do lol The engineer is coming out

[shotimes95]

65 shipped there on the swap shop but ppl want em for 40 bucks for the pair shipped and shipping is 15 alone! I really want to trade them for a x642 s/b and some $ but no one wants to deal... 65 isnt firm

[shotimes95]

im willing to deal and help someone out if they can do the same for me...

[Deserthobbies]

65 shipped there on the swap shop but ppl want em for 40 bucks for the pair shipped and shipping is 15 alone! I really want to trade them for a x642 s/b and some $ but no one wants to deal...

I may have an extra X642 prop, i balance my own , first one took me 6 hrs , then i bought a Stainless Steel and have about 8 hrs in it, its very time consuming to do it correctly sure glad i'm retired. lol

[shotimes95]

that helps! If he wants em give me a call. ill give u my number, i dont have paypal but will do whatever is needed to help a fellow rc modeler out! Ive been told a 642 will make a big difference. Im running a stock prop with darins tweeks and 2 7.4v lipos

[shotimes95]

wow ur a retired EE!! Im sure you could get a electric boat to scream! Im a body engineer for Ford

[Deserthobbies]

that helps! If he wants em give me a call. ill give u my number, i dont have paypal but will do whatever is needed to help a fellow rc modeler out! Ive been told a 642 will make a big difference. Im running a stock prop with darins tweeks and 2 7.4v lipos

I also ran Darins tweeks and they made a big difference , if you havent seen it i made my own tweeks but it does best with a 440/3 three bladed prop, im running Track Power 5000mah 40C lipos, got 42.6 mph today on the glassy smooth pond

[shotimes95]

40c is more than im running... i got 2 7.4v 4000mah 20c lipos. Just hope they make the boat run good!

[shotimes95]

One heck of a job on ur boat. Retirement really is paying off for you LOL Ive raced rc cars and trucks for the past 14 years and boats are new to me. But a forum and trial and error is paying off

[Deserthobbies]

40c is more than im running... i got 2 7.4v 4000mah 20c lipos. Just hope they make the boat run good!

the boat actually calls for over 25C batteries, watch your temps.

[shotimes95]

i didnt know that. proboat told me that the 20c were ok. they run losi 20c in there proboat video on horizon hobby. mine have a burst rate of 30c.. now u got me worried

[shotimes95]

and i have the timing on high and havent ran it yet

[Deserthobbies]

One heck of a job on ur boat. Retirement really is paying off for you LOL Ive raced rc cars and trucks for the past 14 years and boats are new to me. But a forum and trial and error is paying off

This is my first boat too, they are a blast , my Helis stress me out too much. I am considering putting floats on my Bell 47 for a boat recovery system. lol . yep too much time, ill sure be glad when Darins Stiletto gets here. i'm running out of stuff to do.

[shotimes95]

ill go pick up some 40c packs tomorrow...

[shotimes95]

would 5000 mah 50c be overkill?

[Deserthobbies]

would 5000 mah 50c be overkill?

my 40C's dont even get warm. and thats running it hard down a 1/4 mile pond

[shotimes95]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do

[Deserthobbies]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do

you will probably be ok, just watch your temps on the wires and batterys , lipos wont strain as bad as NIMH batterys do. I have some good quality NIMH and they get hot as hell before they are run down half way. my 40 C lipos are the same temp after running hard as they were when i put them in the boat.

[shotimes95]

on the battery wires or the esc wires? and also could i use 2 3s 11.1v lipos? i wanna run it hard but not ruin it. other threads say it can handle a total of 6s but im not sure. Thanks for being so understanding... im asking all the questions LOL

[Deserthobbies]

on the battery wires or the esc wires? and also could i use 2 3s 11.1v lipos? i wanna run it hard but not ruin it. other threads say it can handle a total of 6s but im not sure. Thanks for being so understanding... im asking all the questions LOL

The motor is rated for 6 cells but not the ESC, The esc is only rated for 21 volts.

[shotimes95]

Just picked up 2 orion carbon 45c 5400mah lipos... now just need a x642

[forescott]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice. :tiphat:

[forescott]

Hey Desert, have you thought about using jb weld epoxy for that flexshaft?? I'm pretty sure thats how most of the flex cable/prop shafts are joined nowadays.

[Fluid]

Most commercial cables are still soldered/brazed. I'd definately not trust JB, that function is not what it is designed for and its viscosity precludes the tightest joint fit. Permatex sleeve retaining compound has a great history of success, even in SAW boats.


/

[shotimes95]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice. :tiphat:

I figured it may be but i can use them in other vehicles of mine. I couldnt pass up the price for the orion packs! The packs i have are 30c burst and the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

[forescott]

Most commercial cables are still soldered/brazed. I'd definately not trust JB, that function is not what it is designed for and its viscosity precludes the tightest joint fit. Permatex sleeve retaining compound has a great history of success, even in SAW boats.


/

Thanks for the info fluid, I learn something new everyday!

[forescott]

I figured it may be but i can use them in other vehicles of mine. I couldnt pass up the price for the orion packs! The packs i have are 30c burst and the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

By exploding do you mean cavitating? Spinning free and then grabbing again.

[shotimes95]

By exploding do you mean cavitating? Spinning free and then grabbing again.

the prop breaks apart and only the center is left on the shaft by the retaining nut afterwards..

[Deserthobbies]

the prop breaks apart and only the center is left on the shaft by the retaining nut afterwards..

that will hapen to the stock props they rev when they leave the water and when they come back in contact with the water its like hitting a brick.

[Deserthobbies]

Hey Desert, have you thought about using jb weld epoxy for that flexshaft?? I'm pretty sure thats how most of the flex cable/prop shafts are joined nowadays.

no way JB weld will hold , ill silver solder it or braze it with a brass rod.

[Deserthobbies]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice. :tiphat:

I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.

[lectriglide]

the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

Don't tighten the prop nut against the prop so much, just enough to where it won't let the prop "back-up" off the drive dog. It puts stress/tension on the plastic and makes it shatter.

[lectriglide]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do


The stock esc is only rated at 45 amps. Your 4000mah 20c batteries will deliver 80 amps constant, 120 burst. The 20c batteries will do just fine for that motor and esc.

[Deserthobbies]

The stock esc is only rated at 45 amps. Your 4000mah 20c batteries will deliver 80 amps constant, 120 burst. The 20c batteries will do just fine for that motor and esc.

Then why does proboat tech notes state a battery with a minimum of 25C. for the fastech, and it does state minimum. the 20 C wil lwork but ill bet they get hotter than hell.

[shotimes95]

Don't tighten the prop nut against the prop so much, just enough to where it won't let the prop "back-up" off the drive dog. It puts stress/tension on the plastic and makes it shatter.

I think your right. I was a bit snug when i backed it off!!

[Deserthobbies]

I think your right. I was a bit snug when i backed it off!!

PM me your address and ill send you a sharpened and balanced X642 and you will never use a stock plastic prop again.

[lectriglide]

Then why does proboat tech notes state a battery with a minimum of 25C. for the fastech, and it does state minimum. the 20 C wil lwork but ill bet they get hotter than hell.

They only get hot when the system is stressing the lipos by trying to draw the limits of what the batteries can provide. I've run 7.4 5000mah 20c turnigy batteries for over a year, sometimes till the lvc (3.4) cuts in and they are just warm at most. Many others run the same batteries with absolutely no ill effects. The racers preheat their lipos to 110 to get the best performance out of them so I guess it depends on what "hot" is (over 130 to me)

[forescott]

I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.

I am certainly not an electrical engineer, but I do know that if your 20c lipos are getting hot, then you need to get some better batteries. I've run plenty of 20c packs in all of my boats, some with higher amp ratings than the proboat, and haven't had any heat issues with any of em. Keep in mind that a lot of companies over-rate their products to make a sale. A lot of e-bay stores are famous for this. I've seen plenty of guys buy inexpensive lipos and wonder why they get super-hot or burn up. In my opinion anything above 30c on the stock proboat electronics is a waste.

[shotimes95]

I am certainly not an electrical engineer, but I do know that if your 20c lipos are getting hot, then you need to get some better batteries. I've run plenty of 20c packs in all of my boats, some with higher amp ratings than the proboat, and haven't had any heat issues with any of em. Keep in mind that a lot of companies over-rate their products to make a sale. A lot of e-bay stores are famous for this. I've seen plenty of guys buy inexpensive lipos and wonder why they get super-hot or burn up. In my opinion anything above 30c on the stock proboat electronics is a waste.

So are the lipower venom batteries I use some of the lower quality? U prolly read what kind they are from reading the thread but ill refresh ur mind LOL, there lipower 20c 30c burst and 4000mah. I know there a good battery for bashing but ok for the boat? Im not gonna destroy my electronics using the orion carbon 5400mah 45c 90c burst lipos? I bought a pair of those and was gonna use them too. I havent got a straight answer yet... Whats ur thoughts?

[forescott]

I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!

[shotimes95]

I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!

Ive read that the ones from HK, usually get a few bad ones in a 10 piece order and its very expensive to ship them back if u get a bad one...

[forescott]

I've been hearing that recently too. But I'm still getting packs shipped to me in 10-days and haven't had a bad one yet. Most recent purchase was received just last week. I dunno, I may be just lucky, but there is a lot of happy ose members that have nothing but good things to say about em as well.