shockwave prop

[passinby]

was thinkin bout up grading my prop on my brushless shockwave 26 to a metal one should i stick to a 2 blade or ould a 3 be better and does anybody know which ones would fit as a stock replacement dont want to go bigger

[Diesel6401]

For a metal prop i think a y535 is about as close the stock prop your going to get http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-y535. I think it's 1/8 drive on that boat.

FYI that prop needs to be sharpend and balanced.

[SweetZ28]

Guys say the X435 is a good prop for it.

[turbonutt]

are you using the stock ESC? Lipo's? If so don't get the X535 as it will kill the ESC, read the thread on the Shockwave 26 brushless started by Darrin, a few people tried it and burnt the esc

[Diesel6401]

You should ditch the esc anyways. Stock esc is garbage if you look at that thing the wrong way :flashfire: esc is really limiting any potential that boay may have JMHO

[turbonutt]

You should ditch the esc anyways. Stock esc is garbage if you look at that thing the wrong way :flashfire: esc is really limiting any potential that boay may have JMHO

:iagree:I replaced mine with a 60A seaking, I still sent the stock one back to be replaced, I'm sure I will find something to use it in. I also had to replace the motor as the shaft is bent, I replaced it with a 3300KV Turnigy.

[Diesel6401]

:iagree:I replaced mine with a 60A seaking, I still sent the stock one back to be replaced, I'm sure I will find something to use it in. I also had to replace the motor as the shaft is bent, I replaced it with a 3300KV Turnigy.

Smart man, put that stocker in the swap shop or on flebay use that money for another seaking :thumbup1:

How's that turnigy working out for ya?

[turbonutt]

How's that turnigy working out for ya?

couldn't tell ya. I've had it in the boat for 2 weeks now but haven't been able to try it yet because of a bent prop shaft. I don't have a clue how I managed to do it but I bought a new one, PRB2507 according to the manual, and it's too short! Product support says the right part is PRB2813, they kind of talked down to me saying that there are 2 different Blackjack 26's, nitro and electric and the 2507 is for the nitro. I replied saying thank you but are you sure that is the right part for the SHOCKWAVE 26 brushless I asked about, that was last week and they haven't got back to me yet. lol I did order the 2813 anyway, $6 and it will be in tomorrow.

[passinby]

yeah my stock esc went up in :flashfire: shortly after i got it horizon is sending me a new one but i think im gonna be puttin it up for sale since i ordered a 105amp one,also found out after the esc burnted up my shaft was also bent,so me and a buddy made a new shaft and stuffing tube it turns very smooth now,got to test run it the other day with my buddys esc and the boat runs way better than it did out of the box,was not very impressed with itout of the box :thumbsdown:,but with a lil work it is a nice,fast boat :thumbup:

[tunnelvision]

Hey guys, another cheap prop to try is the octura y534 plastic prop. Obviously no speed improvements but if you are looking for a cheap prop just mess around with.. it works pretty good. It took about 10 runs to break but bought a bunch from here so have plenty in reserve. Broke 2 stock props within 5 minutes.

Also, got a X435 2 blade and it works great. I have had no esc problems (knock wood), just some adjustments to the driveshaft but nothing major. I am a newbie to the hobby and am hooked. If you want check out a vid I put together of it running, here you go.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO98PHSc-hE&feature=channel

[sjt]

:iagree:I replaced mine with a 60A seaking, I still sent the stock one back to be replaced, I'm sure I will find something to use it in. I also had to replace the motor as the shaft is bent, I replaced it with a 3300KV Turnigy.

What 60 amp esc did you use one for two bat set up or what?

[turbonutt]

it's a 60A Seaking V.2. It is still running the single 2 cell lipo, the only difference is that it doesn't :flashfire: after running for 45 seconds.:thumbup:

[sjt]

Was it fairly easy to program?

[turbonutt]

it came programmed for lipo's and the other parameters seemed ok. You need the programming card/box to change anything (usually $10 shipped) and they are real easy to program with it.

[forescott]

it came programmed for lipo's and the other parameters seemed ok. You need the programming card/box to change anything (usually $10 shipped) and they are real easy to program with it.
You can also program that esc from you're transmitter.

[SweetZ28]

I was thinking of buying the seaking 35amp esc as i am using this in my brushless apache 24 with a 3300KV motor on 3s and it always runs cool under 100Deg.

and its only like $35.00 bucks yes you can set them by the radio also

[forescott]

I think a 35-amp speedo is way too small for that motor.

[sjt]

You can also program that esc from you're transmitter.

I appreciate the input,I think i'm going to buy one.

[SweetZ28]

I think a 35-amp speedo is way too small for that motor.

That's what's in my apache guy's say that the 35 amp esc is way under rated I never had it heat up once yet.

[forescott]

What kind of motor is that 3300kv? If you find the continuous amp rating of that motor(say 40amps or so) then you should run a 60 amp speed control. You're 35 amp speed control is good for a motor that puts out about 25amps. I dont see a 3300kv brushless motor putting out less than 40-50 amps. But hey! If its working for you, then more power to ya!

[SweetZ28]

What kind of motor is that 3300kv? If you find the continuous amp rating of that motor(say 40amps or so) then you should run a 60 amp speed control. You're 35 amp speed control is good for a motor that puts out about 25amps. I dont see a 3300kv brushless motor putting out less than 40-50 amps. But hey! If its working for you, then more power to ya!

I read some place guy's say they can run at 60 amp loads? who know alls good now though with the 3300KV

[cvlex]

This morning I run my ShockWave 26BL with Protek 2S5000mAh40C Li-Po.
Although she was so fast yet stable, the prop broke twice: the blades disappeared at high speed straight run.

My setting is not correct?

Any advice or tips are all welcome.

Thanks in advance,

cvlex

#It was a bit too hot this morning in my country, about 86 to 90 degree F.
#This is my first racing boat.

[SweetZ28]

This morning I run my ShockWave 26BL with Protek 2S5000mAh40C Li-Po.
Although she was so fast yet stable, the prop broke twice: the blades disappeared at high speed straight run.

My setting is not correct?

Any advice or tips are all welcome.

Thanks in advance,

cvlex

#It was a bit too hot this morning in my country, about 86 to 90 degree F.
#This is my first racing boat.

Nope nothing wrong the stock blades are crap!! you can use these one guy says they last longer octura y534 plastic prop and for faster speed and a prop that will never break octura X435 but you will have to balance and sharpen it so you may as well buy one already balanced and sharpened.

[forescott]

Yup, that stock plastic prop will shed the blades with the rpm you're spinning. Time to upgrade! Stick with carbon filled or metal.

[T-Man]

Nope nothing wrong the stock blades are crap!! you can use these one guy says they last longer octura y534 plastic prop and for faster speed and a prop that will never break octura X435 but you will have to balance and sharpen it so you may as well buy one already balanced and sharpened.


I agree, the stock plastic prop is crap. Mine broke immediately on its maiden voyage, running in a straight line in clean water. I replaced it with an X435 and she's been happy ever since.

[cvlex]

Thanks Sweet28 and T-Man.

I replaced the stock prop with octura x435. Although it was a bit too hard for me to trim, balance and sharpen the prop, now my ShockWave 26 runs very well. The rooster-tail is beautiful and the top speed increases, IMHO.

You may find my boat at 00:00-00:10 and 03:06-03:18 in the following vid.

Thanks again,

cvlex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9g1QKVUol4

[sjt]

it came programmed for lipo's and the other parameters seemed ok. You need the programming card/box to change anything (usually $10 shipped) and they are real easy to program with it.

I bought a seaking,now I can actually run the boat. Got a balanced y535 it will keep up with BJ 26 on the straits pretty cool. Easy to program from transmitter to.Thanx for the info.

[SweetZ28]

what model seaking did you buy?
Thanks


I bought a seaking,now I can actually run the boat. Got a balanced y535 it will keep up with BJ 26 on the straits pretty cool. Easy to program from transmitter to.Thanx for the info.

[sjt]

what model seaking did you buy?
Thanks

seaking 60 V2 going to order another.I liked it so much for bj 26 i have maybe the 120 dk, so far so good

[SweetZ28]

O Ok I have a seaking 35amp version it's nice also .

[roadrashracing]

Proboat has a stainless one that is the stock size ands its only $10:banana:

[kevink]

Found the stainless prop at lhs. Ran it today with no problems. Even upgraded esc for 3s lipo.... FAST.... and even in Louisiana heat, 120 degrees on motor, 102 on esc.

[yellowbird]

Down at my LHS today and they had a new SW26BL on display - it now comes with a stainless steel prop as standard, in the same size (1.34" x 2.06") as the plastic one. This is the PRB0154 mentioned in the previous post for $9.99 so I picked one up to try.

Just checked the Horizon Hobby website and on the SW26BL promo video a pop-up message now announces that the boat comes with a metal prop (because of the issue with plastic props breaking), confirming this.

[roadrashracing]

they will send you one to

[cvlex]

I got a PRB0154 and run my SW26BL with it.

For me, a beginner, the top speed and the handling seem to be almost the same as with Octura x435.

0154: 1.34" x 2.06"
x435: 1.38" x 1.92"

cvlex

[Svenster]

Down at my LHS today and they had a new SW26BL on display - it now comes with a stainless steel prop as standard, in the same size (1.34" x 2.06") as the plastic one. This is the PRB0154 mentioned in the previous post for $9.99 so I picked one up to try.

Just checked the Horizon Hobby website and on the SW26BL promo video a pop-up message now announces that the boat comes with a metal prop (because of the issue with plastic props breaking), confirming this.

If you got to the proboat website, select the shockwave 26BL model, then click the support tab, there is a form you can email to get a free replacement metal prop. Received mine a couple days ago, after blowing through both plastic ones included in the box.

Newbie to RC boats: I greased the shaft last night on the Shockwave 26BL, and now the set screw that holds the shaft to the motor coupler keeps unscrewing causing the prop to slip (set screw was on the flat portion of the shaft). Had to retreive the boat twice now after the first 1 minute of operation. Is this common and what do you do to prevent this from happening again? Very fustrating.

I see the shaft on the Miss Giego is completely different and is sort of a locking nut on the flex shaft. Can the 26BL be upgraded to a flex shaft and locking nut configuration? Thanks in advance.

[yellowbird]

Before changing the driveshaft etc, try cleaning the grease off the screw and coupler thread (tissue + cocktail stick?) and putting a drop of threadlock on the setscrew in the coupler.

If you go to a good hardware store or auto parts store you will find some different choices (they are colour-coded)
- Purple is "light strength" for small screws and should be OK for this (up to 6-8mm thread I think).
- Blue is "medium strength" and may be more common, but harder to get off in future!

[SweetZ28]

If you got to the proboat website, select the shockwave 26BL model, then click the support tab, there is a form you can email to get a free replacement metal prop. Received mine a couple days ago, after blowing through both plastic ones included in the box.

Newbie to RC boats: I greased the shaft last night on the Shockwave 26BL, and now the set screw that holds the shaft to the motor coupler keeps unscrewing causing the prop to slip (set screw was on the flat portion of the shaft). Had to retreive the boat twice now after the first 1 minute of operation. Is this common and what do you do to prevent this from happening again? Very fustrating.

I see the shaft on the Miss Giego is completely different and is sort of a locking nut on the flex shaft. Can the 26BL be upgraded to a flex shaft and locking nut configuration? Thanks in advance.

Hi that's what i did i e-mailed and they e-mailed back in a few min and said they are processing it.

on the coupler make sure you are screwing the set screw on the flat ground spot on the motor shaft... also you can put a very small dab of paint or thread lock on the grub screw this will stop it from getting loose.

[Svenster]

Thanks Yellowbird and SweetZ28 for the info. I didn't think of using thread lock. I've seen the blue thread lock in hardware stores. If the blue is all I can find, how difficult is it to remove as it seems you should grease the shaft every 2-3 hours per the manual. Do you just heat it up with a sodering iron to losen the hold?

[SweetZ28]

Thanks Yellowbird and SweetZ28 for the info. I didn't think of using thread lock. I've seen the blue thread lock in hardware stores. If the blue is all I can find, how difficult is it to remove as it seems you should grease the shaft every 2-3 hours per the manual. Do you just heat it up with a sodering iron to losen the hold?

Yes heat will make it easy to take off ... you only need a tiny bit on the grub screw... i like using tamiya thread lock as it holds good but is much more easy to remove parts with it on.

you can also tighten the screw up with nothing on it and use some nail polish and put a bead around the outside top edge of the grub screw making sure its on the outter edge of the grub screw and contacting the coupler where the grub screw threads in this will hold it from unscrewing ... but will make it easy to remove and re do it again for disasembly all the time.

[yellowbird]

It can be difficult to see where the flat is to re-attach the prop shaft to the motor coupler after greasing (only a small gap to the stuffing tube) so it helps if you look at the universal joint at the other end of the propshaft to get everything lined up: the flats on the prop shaft should be in the same place at each end, so the three grubscrews (1 in the UJ and 2 in the motor coupler) should all line up when everything is in place (i.e. turn the UJ/prop so that all 3 screws point upwards at the same time and then tighted up the grubscrews).