Turnigy Aquastar Series ESC's

[Insaniac]

I've used the "regular" Turnigy 120A ESC's, but not the Aquastar Series. Has anyone used these? Do you get the "USB link" and CD with the unit?

[Diesel6401]

I've used the "regular" Turnigy 120A ESC's, but not the Aquastar Series. Has anyone used these? Do you get the "USB link" and CD with the unit?

I use them. It says it's suppose come with a usb stick, but it doesn't. Doesn't come a a disk either and they recommend not using the TX to change values. I bought the programming box, super easy to use. The esc is OK not the best, not a big burst rating and it's a pain in the :cursing: to calibrate with a tx. It is the same exact esc as the swordfish ones steves sell here on OSE.

P.S. It is NOT water proof nor really resistant. I blew one after it got a wet and it fried my rx. I water proofed my second one.

[BakedMopar]

I run three of these. Two in my twin cat a d one inky rigger. No problem and works like a charm. Get the USB link or a program box. Also check the water nipples as two of mine were loose.

[FighterCat57]

Yeah, check the nipples. They are not water proof and all of mine have been loose on arrival. I've burnt two of these before they hit the water. One exploded on the bench... I sent one back in April and still haven't gotten the replacement... Didn't bother sending the other one in, just bought a replacement. So out of 4, I'm hoping to have two good ones... We'll see, I keep hearing they are great ESC's.

[blackcat26]

Baked is right on the money. Check the nipples....HA HA.. Mine were loose also. Took em out and I used a permanent Loc-Tite on em. I recommed the K-force 150a its a little more money but a tuff unit. They don't come water cooled but that is easy onough solved with some 1/8 copper tubing pressed into the heatsink.

[Make-a-Wake]

I like the standard 120a Marine turnigy's for less $$.....................however it looks as if the Aqua has 4 caps in the pics......................is that right?

Comment from a customer:
Reviewers have mentioned the unit failing after a minute or two. Well here's the deal. I have two of these and both have the same problem. BEFORE you run this thing cut the heat shrink off and check the water cooling nipples. They are probably loose and will LEAK water! Put threadlock on them and re-secure with a wrench - not too tight just snug. Reapply heat shrink. These are NOT WATERPROOF so keep them dry. Good value but you have to fix them.

[Insaniac]

Thanks for the input...I'm using the standard Turnigy in my VS-1 and haven't had any problems so I think I might get a second one...if and when they are in stock!

[LiPo Power]

First one I got from HK did not BEEP so it was sent back for replacement.
Second one works fine and there is no USB link or CD with it.
USB link you need to purchase and software is free from their website....
Robert






I've used the "regular" Turnigy 120A ESC's, but not the Aquastar Series. Has anyone used these? Do you get the "USB link" and CD with the unit?

[Insaniac]

Overall it sounds like the Aquastar Series has had it's share of problems. Has anyone had any bad experiences with the Turnigy 180A Marine ESC?

[BakedMopar]

ALL esc's has their share of problems! If you ask ten different people you will get ten different answers. The 180's seem to be holding out for most folks.

[FighterCat57]

ALL esc's has their share of problems! If you ask ten different people you will get ten different answers. The 180's seem to be holding out for most folks.

Yeah, it seems there's about the same level of good/bad reviews on just about everything... :huh: The Turnigy 180 I use has been holding up well. Although the BEC just went out on it yesterday... Still works otherwise though. :thumbup1:

[Insaniac]

Now I'm thinking the Hifei Swordfish 120A might be a better choice...

[BakedMopar]

It's the same thing. Turnigy just re-labels it. I picked up some speed with it on high timming over the Ul-1 esc in my spec rigger.

[Insaniac]

It's the same thing. Turnigy just re-labels it. I picked up some speed with it on high timming over the Ul-1 esc in my spec rigger.

According to sailr

"NO.

I realize it's a bit confusing. Two different manufacturers involved. Turnigy is just the 'house brand' put on things by Hobbyking.


Seaking and Turnigy are the same. Both are made my Hobbywing.

Swordfish is Swordfish made by Hifei."

[BakedMopar]

The Turnigy "Marine" is made by hobbywing. These ARE the same as the seaking's.

The Turnigy "Aquastar" is made by Hifei. The Aquastars ARE the same as Swordfish.

Turnigy has a lot of different models. Some are made by different manufactures. Hobby King does not make any of them.

[blackcat26]

Baked is correct. I have seen both the aquastar and the swordfish naked. Same same.

[FighterCat57]

here's a Turnigy Aquastar cut open: (I removed the water jacket- this ESC is toast)

There is a light coating, don't know if I would trust it to be water proof.

[blackcat26]

I don't like the way they did the fets from the factory, makes the middle board take alot of heat!

[Make-a-Wake]

here's a Turnigy Aquastar cut open: (I removed the water jacket- this ESC is toast)

There is a light coating, don't know if I would trust it to be water proof.

So its a 4 cap job..................Turnigy marine is two..........although with a higher uf.

[FighterCat57]

I don't like the way they did the fets from the factory, makes the middle board take alot of heat!

The heat sink goes between the two fet boards, but the layout is a bit confusing. The cooling plate is on the solder side of both fet boards. :confused2:

[LiPo Power]

Thanks, Great Pictures......
I have one. How did you toast yours????
Robert





here's a Turnigy Aquastar cut open: (I removed the water jacket- this ESC is toast)

There is a light coating, don't know if I would trust it to be water proof.

[FighterCat57]

Thanks, Great Pictures......
I have one. How did you toast yours????
Robert

I plugged two of them into a Y connector... guess what happened to the controller? Now it just shakes like it's retarded. :doh:

I discovered this when I used the same Y connector and toasted another ESC with the same result... I soon realized that the new Y connector didn't have one of the red wires removed, like all of my others do. Typically, the first thing I do is pull the red wire on one side of the Y connector.

So there's your PSA and the result of "what happens if...".

[BakedMopar]

Weird I didn't pull any red wire on my Y