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FRED
10-10-2007, 10:41 AM
Retired, time for it.

Rex R
10-10-2007, 11:07 AM
iirc that will leave room in front of the motor for a 'standard' 6pack of cells. stock location would not be my 1st choice, for one thing it puts quite a bend in the flex :).

FRED
10-10-2007, 02:40 PM
Retired, time for it.

Darin Jordan
10-10-2007, 02:56 PM
Guys... If you would be interested in the advice of someone who has raced El Lobo IIs in several different classes, and has won a lot of heats and several championships... AND has raced alongside of RAY and gotten LOT's of help from him... here's my advice:

If you set the boat up like this: http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/setup.htm You'll have room to put the batteries EITHER in front of the motor OR as saddles... Balance is going to depend on the motor you choose... the cells are no longer the heavy part if you are using Lipos... If you saddle them, you'll have plenty of room to move them fore-aft alongside the motor and should have no trouble getting it balanced...

Or, this setup works well too: http://members.tripod.com/psfastelectrics6/N1%20mono%20for%20site%20ShultzN1.pdf

I personally prefer to keep the weight down the centerline of the hull as much as possible, but NOT at the expense of being able to balance the hull... The El Lobo II is sufficiently small inside to warrent the saddling of the packs, and would also give you more wiggle-room in the future, should you decide to go to a longer/shorter motor...

As for adding skegs... I don't see how this is at all necessary... the boat handles well with a standard Fuller's Carbon turn fin or equivalent on the right side... set up like the link above shows... You can even put a small fin on the left side to allow a little more control when correcting to the left... The boat has a very shallow V and doesn't like abrubt transitions from right to left without something to grab the water and keep it from "pancaking" and skittering, eventually leading to a very dry keel... (upside down... ;) )

Hope this helps...

Rex R
10-10-2007, 04:35 PM
obviously its a case of, if it works...don't monkey with it. I started building one with a mind towards n2, well by the time I had come up with a motor mount that would let me water cool the motor, the whole lipo thing went through. and I lost interest. one problem with the wood ver that the others don't have; is lack of (useable)space inside the boat. the 'woody' has a bulkhead blocking access to anything forward of the hatch opening. I did notice that the instructions don't show where to place the (hull)strakes(all 4 of them). it was suggested that I use the boat stand as a guide.

Darin Jordan
10-10-2007, 04:42 PM
the 'woody' has a bulkhead blocking access to anything forward of the hatch opening. I did notice that the instructions don't show where to place the (hull)strakes(all 4 of them). it was suggested that I use the boat stand as a guide.

Rex,

The Mutineer and Wild Thing have the same problem... Almost everyone I've seen built has that bulkhead cut out to allow a battery pack to extend up there... That bulkhead is overkill anyhow...

As for the strakes, I may have some pictures somewhere that would help locate these... I think I have pics of the stock boat, which I used in 8-cell mono, as well as a modified one that I used for N1-Mono... I'll post them if I can find them...

Darin Jordan
10-10-2007, 04:52 PM
Rex... See if these help... You can see in the later pics that the outside strake is extended back to the transom... This is NOT recommended for higher power setups...

If fact, I'd suggest you put the strakes aft location about 2-3inches further forward than the pictures show... at the higher speeds, you'll want to keep more of the hull in contact with the water... so you'll want to reduce some of the lift at the back of the hull... Made a HUGE difference in my 26" DH Mono... Also worked on my Maus Micro-bullet for N1-Mono when I moved the center strakes forward of the transom about 2"... Made the boat much more drivable and faster around the course... less flighty and bouncy...

As for the forward part, I curve them gently with the contour of the boat to converge at the tip.... running them almost to the nose... I'll attach a pic of my modified DH 26" mono as an example. I completely re-worked it's strakes recently...

FRED
10-10-2007, 07:16 PM
Retired, time for it.

Darin Jordan
10-10-2007, 07:36 PM
Those setup on those sites were for high powered motors where hulls were lightened in weight as compared to mine which is heavier. Now you can see why i inquired on movement of the motor toward the cg mark. I figured to balance the boat which would raise the transom up and with the step system i have to be a faster boat.

I guess I don't understand what you are asking then... The two setups I pictured are for the lowest power setups we have (N1-Mono... 6-cell, 27-Turn), and for O-Mono (8-cell, Brushless motors...)... If your boat is "heavier", all the better... If you need to move the motor forward, then do so, and saddle pack the cells... You can give yourself more room by mounting the steering servo and/or Rx above the stuffing tube, similiar to that shown in the attached picture...

In the end what matters is to have the ability to adjust the CG with battery weight, and to be able to work on the darn thing in the heat of the moment...

FRED
10-11-2007, 03:01 AM
Retired, time for it.

Darin Jordan
10-11-2007, 05:09 AM
Now with all due respect! This will be my last posting, seems for the average Joe, things get alittle to bossy like and alittle to arrogant for my blood, so best of luck in your boating!

What??? :confused1:

What did I do or say that would make you feel like THAT??? :confused1: :confused1: :confused1:

I think you may be reading more into the typing than is there, Fred...

To try to clarify, there should be nothing "heavier" about a wooden El Lobo over a fiberglass one... The glass one weighs more... I know, I've had both... If your's is heavier for some reason, then we need to you give more information about your particular situation so we can get to a solution, but the information I've provided thus far should be enough to get you on your way... It sounds like you need to set it up for saddle packs to accomplish what you are after.

If you read any kind of "attitude" into that, I appologize, but none was intended... I really DON'T understand what you are trying to ask... I don't know what more you want me/us to do for you... I've given you pictures and all the information I have without actually sitting down and doing it for you....

Good luck and I hope you reconsider your participation on this forum...

lonewolf
10-11-2007, 09:06 PM
For a newbie he might not be prepared fora fully seasoned vet like you.
Your comments might have been a bit (strong)? And might not be a need for all your race titles they really didnt help.... just my 2 cents.. Dave

Darin Jordan
10-11-2007, 10:04 PM
For a newbie he might not be prepared fora fully seasoned vet like you.
Your comments might have been a bit (strong)? And might not be a need for all your race titles they really didnt help.... just my 2 cents.. Dave

I know I'm just wasting my time now, but I have NO idea what you guys are talking about concerning any "strong" comments... And the preface of listing my experience was an attempt to help this guy understand the qualifications of the one giving the advice and my experience with the subject hull...

I've re-read this entire thread and still haven't the foggiest idea why anyone would think anything I've said was too "strong"... but it is what it is...

I've tried to help based on experience with the topic... I guess I'll choose more carefully when and how I do that from now on...

Good Luck...

Eodman
10-12-2007, 12:28 AM
Hey Darrin, please feel free to offer your help and experience to any of my threads on builds! Comments always welcome.

I don't see a thing wrong with mentioning your race history!