motor removal

[VIKOS]

OK I've tried everything and can't get the screw(1.5) to even turn. The servo screws turn fine the two motor mount screws..are not.. and its already hard enough to get a 90 degree hex drive in there..are the mounts glued in..and is there another way to remove these motors..I've even sprays some royal purple lubricant to try to loosen it up..I'm stummped guys and my new couplers are on there way. i might just yank the3 motors out and reglue them.:help::ThumbsDown01:

[scubasteve95]

ok i've tried everything and can't get the screw(1.5) to even turn. The servo screws turn fine the two motor mount screws..are not.. And its already hard enough to get a 90 degree hex drive in there..are the mounts glued in..and is there another way to remove these motors..i've even sprays some royal purple lubricant to try to loosen it up..i'm stummped guys and my new couplers are on there way. I might just yank the3 motors out and reglue them.:help::thumbsdown01:

go to home depot and get a cheap set of allen bits with
a flex extension in it,it costs about 4 bucks and your life will be alot better.....
motors will come right out....loosen bolts with 90 degree
allen first ,just crack them free and then use the flex.

[VIKOS]

Got the motors out but busted up my fingers. Now I can't get the set screws out the coupler of the motor shaft. Maybe from water or not but for some reason one light turn and now there stript. Tried to evenly remove both but now they won't come out for nothing. Might hVe to dremil the couplers off. Any ideas to remove lightly stripped set screws on a coupler. Thought of crazy gluing the hex driver in there but that won't work. Maybe this is a good time to trash the motors all at once. I can feel that one of the motors bearings is already failing. Sprayed dome electric cleaner and lubricator from radio shack. Loosened it right up some. But u can still tell bearings are going.

[Team Jericho]

I am putting in 9XLs into my EKOS this week and dang know what you mean about being hard to work on..got the stock engines out, was tedious and one screw was really tight, had to use an Allen key style hex to loosen up first, back and forth, back and forth until probably the heat from the tension of loosened it up. I used ball ended hex key ( which is now trashed) for the rest of the remocal procedure...the idea of a flex extension is great, not sure if my HomeDepot carries this but will check!

[VIKOS]

yeah my ball tip hex broke twice ..lol took it to a friend that just unpacked is proboat blackjack 55..damn that boat looks nice. All it needs is a modified motor and it'll hail all in the same class. He took the scres off the coupler on the motors but he did say venom put way to much lock tight on them for what ever reason cause after we took the scres out the coupler still too prying to come off...lol could have probably ran with out screws in. Either way just waiting on my parts and we'll be back in business. Gona take som video on my iphone and upload for everyone..only problem is it'll be on stock props lost one of my cast aluminum props. Unless its ok to run one plastic and one metal..doubt it though. Be careful though thought I was gona rip the hull apart by getting motors out...lol

[forescott]

This works real well once the scews are broke loose for removal. Works excellent on re-install too!

[VIKOS]

Do those top hole screws really do anything lol. Well thanks to the guys at rcboatracing got my shafts in. The couplers are very tight. Doubt I will lose any untill it's time to change shafts from saltwater. Guess what lol I lost a left prop and dog and speed screw so I'll ve ordering more from those guys. My fault for not ordering 2 of all. Other than shafts. It's cool thinking of going with maybe 40mm two blades or 41 even though 3 blade is better. Or just order 2 sets of the cast aluminum. Either way I'm happy shafts are in very well. They actually fit in stock tube but might not run any tubes at all.

[forescott]

Those are actually my water fittings for the motor mount cooling.(the hoses were'nt hooked up yet) Try a set of the carbon fiber 40mm props. They work great and are about 6 bucks a piece.(no balancing or sharpening necessary!)

[scubasteve95]

This works real well once the scews are broke loose for removal. Works excellent on re-install too!

i have the same couplers...how do you hold the motor shaft nut to tighten
the prop shaft nut?its a real pain for me unless i remove the motor screws.
im thinking i will have to make a custom wrench.

[forescott]

Yeah, I have to hold the wrench on a 45 degree angle to get it to "bite" onto the collet. Theres not much room in there anyways. I was thinkin of taking a boxed end wrench and cutting a couple of notches in it with the dremmel tool for the motor mount screws.

[VIKOS]

Anyone have a site I could go to for the carbon fiber props.

[forescott]

Right here on ose! http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=Carbon+Filled+Propellers

[VIKOS]

So size fits and or pitch to get. Thanks at work but will check out as soon as I get some free time too.

[forescott]

So size fits and or pitch to get. Thanks at work but will check out as soon as I get some free time too.

The 40mm is the largest size I would use.http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=grp-2317.40 Remember you have to also get the other prop in reverse-rotation,http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=grp-2317.40L and not too many sizes available there. Smallest is the 40mm, then jumps up to 45mm which is waaay to big!! I think they are all 1.4 on the pitch. You also need to buy two prop adapters to fit the larger 3/16" prop to your 4mm prop shaft.http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1030 Unfortunately the counter-clockwise prop is not in stock at the moment.

[scubasteve95]

Yeah, I have to hold the wrench on a 45 degree angle to get it to "bite" onto the collet. Theres not much room in there anyways. I was thinkin of taking a boxed end wrench and cutting a couple of notches in it with the dremmel tool for the motor mount screws.

think i'm going to use the hex couplers on another build
and get the HD set screw couplers from WOHLTS RC BOATS(rcraceboat)
they look bullit proof and easy.

[Drag Boat Bob]

think i'm going to use the hex couplers on another build
and get the HD set screw couplers from WOHLTS RC BOATS(rcraceboat)
they look bullit proof and easy.

I used Jeff's straight coupler with the larger (double) set screws. They tighten down very well without stripping out. I tossed the Venom ones.

I will finally be able to get into the cabin/lake for testing next week. Here it is mid June and still 2 ft. of snow up there.

New motors and esc's bench test OK, just waiting to get it on water.

I know what you guys mean about the space for motor replacement. I invented several new words after dropping those motor mount screws over and over again trying to get them in.

[scubasteve95]

I used Jeff's straight coupler with the larger (double) set screws. They tighten down very well without stripping out. I tossed the Venom ones.

I will finally be able to get into the cabin/lake for testing next week. Here it is mid June and still 2 ft. of snow up there.

New motors and esc's bench test OK, just waiting to get it on water.

I know what you guys mean about the space for motor replacement. I invented several new words after dropping those motor mount screws over and over again trying to get them in.

dude.....:iagree:

[Drag Boat Bob]

This works real well once the scews are broke loose for removal. Works excellent on re-install too!

I thought of this idea, but didn't think there was enough room for wrenches to loosen the coupler for shaft removal.

Sure wish they made an open-end ratchet.

Do you have a special wrench set?

[scubasteve95]

I thought of this idea, but didn't think there was enough room for wrenches to loosen the coupler for shaft removal.

Sure wish they made an open-end ratchet.

Do you have a special wrench set?

the biggest problem i have is
holding the nut on the motor shaft...
turning the prop shaft nut isn't that bad,
you will have to find a wrench that fits and mod it.
mine uses a 9mm.
new build has counter sunk screws...no need for wrench mod
i'll need more couplers anyway

[VIKOS]

So I ordered 2 sets of dogs, 2 sets of prop screws, 2 sets of sr
stock 36mm props, a set of aluminum props for when I'm racing. 2 sets of shaft spacers, along with my spare set of flex shafts plus what's in the boat. Lol I think I'm ready for the worst. Except motors. Once motors die then I'll order new ones and so forth. Waiting on all that now. Hope it gets here by end of the week. Also installed tiny lock washers on the motor mount screws to keep them away from the coil.

[forescott]

Also installed tiny lock washers on the motor mount screws to keep them away from the coil.

Good idea!!

[VIKOS]

my question are they the right ones.. I see your boat with them,but I also see guys using top mount screws on the stock motor mounts..how does that work to keep the motor in place..cause its not a two piece motor mount.

[forescott]

my question are they the right ones.. I see your boat with them,but I also see guys using top mount screws on the stock motor mounts..how does that work to keep the motor in place..cause its not a two piece motor mount.

Those are'nt motor mount screws. The threaded holes in the top of your motor mounts are for water fittings to screw into. The stock ekos motor mounts are water cooled mounts, but are'nt used. Take a look.

[VIKOS]

I see nice might have use the rudder holing hole into a T to both mounts and try this..so theres actually a water jacket in there..wow news to me lol after I get her up and running i'm going to d othis mod for extra cooling of probably my 10xl's once isntalled. Nice I like alot.

[forescott]

Dont feel bad. It took me months before I realized what those holes were for. You'd think Venom would utilize them. Or put something in the manual about em.

[Team Jericho]

Hey VIKOS! Good one! I had no idea those holes were for water cooling! Now I can further extend me ghetto/ballon animlar cooling system to accomodate water cooled engine mounts :)

[VIKOS]

Haha see oyu never know if you don't ask. Which makes sense since it acts like a heat sink. The rudder really can be used for extra safe cooling even if for some reason the cooling fails on the motors themselfs. Wonder if there's any other hidden stuff in this boat. Maybe an extra motor upfront or esc lol.

[LarrysDrifter]

This works real well once the scews are broke loose for removal. Works excellent on re-install too!

I see your recomendation,but is that a water cooled mount?I see a nipple there.If so, where did you get them?

[LarrysDrifter]

Dont feel bad. It took me months before I realized what those holes were for. You'd think Venom would utilize them. Or put something in the manual about em.

Nevermind.I just blew the dust off my EKOS and looked inside.Didnt remember the holes being there.Sweet.

[forescott]

I see your recomendation,but is that a water cooled mount?I see a nipple there.If so, where did you get them?

They are factory mounts.

[VIKOS]

So maybe that cutting onctge bottom of the hull for water pick up isn't needed then right. Sounds good to me. Less cutting more installing. One thing I notice with the couplers from rcracingboat is that tge set screws don't screw all the way flush which ended up rubbing on the mount. I basically moved them farther up on the motor shaft say 2mm still had alot of shaft to work with and still didn't cause the shafts to stick out on the dog gear. I'm sure a dremel would fix this but I don't gave one so this trick worked well for me.

[Team Jericho]

I found and bought some smaller and stainless steel positioning screws today, these are half the length of the ones that came with the new couplers so they should work well..

[forescott]

So maybe that cutting onctge bottom of the hull for water pick up isn't needed then right. Sounds good to me. Less cutting more installing. One thing I notice with the couplers from rcracingboat is that tge set screws don't screw all the way flush which ended up rubbing on the mount. I basically moved them farther up on the motor shaft say 2mm still had alot of shaft to work with and still didn't cause the shafts to stick out on the dog gear. I'm sure a dremel would fix this but I don't gave one so this trick worked well for me.

Adding the under-hull pickups didnt increase water flow much for me. I did it more for the better scale appearance of the boat minus the big loopy water lines.

[VIKOS]

I found and bought some smaller and stainless steel positioning screws today, these are half the length of the ones that came with the new couplers so they should work well..

What size did u go with and what size are they now by any chance. If I can get new screws then that would be great but Im already sure Jeff and company already sent the parts for me already to the VI. If not I'll buy from local hardware store if they even have them that size.

[Team Jericho]

I just finished the the install of new 9XLs and the straight couplers from OSE/rc raceboat. Also took out the battery tray so that these bad boy 4Ss 5800s fit! Dang, they have some weight to them eh! See pics. Although I have not taken it out on water yet, I notice one of the couplers is not turning 100% balanced, not sure if that is a manufacturing defect or..it is very slight and maybe I am looking too much into it, but hopefully this slightly off balanced coupler will not create issues, damage motor, create more heat ?

[forescott]

Those are the correct couplers right. Jeff makes 2-couplers for the ekos. stock 4mm and 1/8" for feigao/ammo motors. 4mm couplers would fit a little sloppy on the feigaos.

[forescott]

Which props are you using?

[FighterCat57]

Couplers need to be precise, vibration will harm the motor bearings. If you have a set of calipers, check the ID of the coupler. Also check the packaging on the coupler and make sure it's the right one for the motor. Check the OD of the motor shaft too.