M1 Supercat

[Flying Scotsman]

When this boat arrives from custom clearance. Here are some thoughts for the painters out there... and please send your comments.

The hull will be wet sanded with 400 grit. Please note only as far as the seam or wet joints...might be lower.. to the hull bottom sides. Then, I will prime with Tamiya white prime coat. Finish will be Tamiya Pearl White..this colour requires a white base, because it will never cover properly, or take that unique pearl finish if there is anything but a white base.

My question is how to best bond the the finish paint to original gel coat at the point of overlap. Resulting in a finish that will not strip or flake???

[SJFE]

I am wondering how the tamiya paint will bond to glass and what clear coats will both bond to it and tolorate water. I have always liked working with that paint but never used it on a boat.

[Flying Scotsman]

I am wondering how the tamiya paint will bond to glass and what clear coats will both bond to it and tolorate water. I have always liked working with that paint but never used it on a boat.

SJFE, most of my boats are finished with Tamiya TS paints. As long as you wet sand and prime coat, there are no addhesion problems

[Flying Scotsman]

SJFE, the beauty of Tamiya TS paints are that most other paints are compatible. Check out the Tamiya site

[SJFE]

Wow thats good to know. I used that paint on my cars for years. Now if I knew how to wet sand.....lol

[Steven Vaccaro]

If you tape off from the seam down and than wetsand from the seam up I dont see it being an issue. I have done my drifter like that.

[Flying Scotsman]

Steven, I wish to have a "seamless" transition from gel coat to paint. Any ideas???

[Flying Scotsman]

Wow thats good to know. I used that paint on my cars for years. Now if I knew how to wet sand.....lol

SJFE. Tamiya paints are great, but very expensive. All said and done I LOVE them

[kck741]

Is the Tamiya paint water bases,oil bases xylene based.what base is it?

[Steven Vaccaro]

You should ask Darin. He's the man with a rattle can!

[SJFE]

I agree there 100% he is the spray bomb king...lol

[Flying Scotsman]

Info on Tamiya TS paint. They also manufacture PS and other paints

Tamiya Color Spray TS
These cans of spray paint are extremely useful for painting large surfaces. The paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car bodies. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following the painting of the entire assembly, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining three different paints, the decoration of plastic models will become simpler and more effective.

[kck741]

Ssssssssaaaaaawwwwwwwwweeeeeeeeeeeeetttttt!!!

[Doug Smock]

You should ask Darin. He's the man with a rattle can!

Man aint that the truth!!:moon: LOL


Doug

[Mich. Maniac]

THERE IS NO DOUBT! USE PPG. 400 grit is too coarse. must use 1000-1500. First scuff with 3m scuff pad. Use a filling primer. spray bomb is what i use for that. Then sand with the fine grit wet or dry. once again scuff with pad areas you might not get with the paper. clean surface with enamel reducer (NOT LAQUER THINNER) hang your boat safely through water or hardware hole and use a base-coat clear-coat finish. PPG does make a single stage paint that would work as well. There just is no substituting the finish and color selection. Leaving a line just chances you to start a flake line. Even if you want two colors you can spray both and clear and wet sand overlap line leaving no line at all. Just my opinion. Painting believe it or not is a very complicated and scientific thing. I have been to PPG's tech school and they are top notch.

[Mich. Maniac]

I do need to say just to paint sv and mo the cost together was around 85.00 for paint, reducer, activator, clear, hardener. porshe red. red is your expensive color. black being cheapest

[Flying Scotsman]

Received my Supercat yesterday...sat in customs for 2 weeks!
At a first glance, a nice boat. The glass construction leaves a lot to be desired . Pin holes, uneven surface, factory sanding and polishing to try to remove blemishes. Not even close to the quality of Toysport.
All the above faults can be fixed, but I am surprised at this level of quality from a German manufacturer.

[SJFE]

Second time I have herd that about H&M :glare:

[Fluid]

The glass construction leaves a lot to be desired . Pin holes, uneven surface, factory sanding and polishing to try to remove blemishes....

This is so far away from my own experiences with H&M cats! I've owned four in different sizes and seen a dozen others, and all had virtually flawless glass work. In fact I have never painted one, relying on the waxed gel coat to make the cats look good. I wonder what has happened? :confused1:


.

[Flying Scotsman]

Fluid, I also own a micro cat and a no step H & M hulls. The difference is night and day on the quality.. the M1 leaves a lot to desire.

[Flying Scotsman]

M1 hull has been sanded and polished. The steps are far from perfect, as there are still minor imperfections. Top side, not bad. I just laid down a prime coat and it looks OK. My dremel has never seen so much work as I did not want to cut through the gel coat
Pics, will follow.

[Flying Scotsman]

A pic of the hull finished in Tamiya chrome yellow.

[SJFE]

WOW nice job. The colors really deep & looks like it's already been coated.

[Flying Scotsman]

No, the paint has no clear coat. I prefer to leave as is and if damage has ocurred it is very easy to repair. Clear coat has it problems. Thanks SJFE for the conplements. But, we all wish our painting came out better. as we all see minor defects.

[Mich. Maniac]

Very sharp! Now lets see some "BLING" hangin off the back. Did you layout your hardware first, you know, put mounting holes and what not?

[Flying Scotsman]

Very sharp! Now lets see some "BLING" hangin off the back. Did you layout your hardware first, you know, put mounting holes and what not?

Mich,

I layout where the hardware will go, but I do not drill holes at this time. I let the paint cure for 2 weeks, then I attach masking tape and mark and drill. I do it this way, as I am always too keen to get the boat in the water and usually wind up smacking the hull with soft paint!!
Patience is a virtue I am still trying to obtain.
The"bling"will be Fullers Offshore Cat hardware

[Flying Scotsman]

M1 cat with canopies

[Doug Smock]

Looking good sir!!!!:thumbup: :smile:

Doug

[Flying Scotsman]

M1 with The hardware that hangs of the back of the boat!!!
Please note that I had to place SS washers to bring the strut bracket level, as I can not adjust rudder angle. This open area will be filled, as I perceive that water pressure may on the strut bracket be excessive. Also a pic of motor position. The mounting area for the motor will have 3/32nd plywood applied to strengthen that area. As the M1 hull seems light in construction in that area.
Any comments pro or con are welcome

Douggie

[Mich. Maniac]

Wow, if that hull was in bad a shape as you stated earlier, you did a very nice job cleaning it up and makin it sharp and shinin!

[SJFE]

Doug it looks good. I am surprised how shallow that tunnel make the hull over all. I am guessing the bubble in the cowl leaves allot of clearance around that big motor. How do you plan to anchor that mount to the tunnel?

[Flying Scotsman]

Doug it looks good. I am surprised how shallow that tunnel make the hull over all. I am guessing the bubble in the cowl leaves allot of clearance around that big motor. How do you plan to anchor that mount to the tunnel?

Thanks SJFE

The boat was finished today and pics follow. The motor was anchored with 15 min expoxy and a 3/32nd " plywood, then all wood surfaces were given a coat of thinned epoxy. The motor has about 1/4" clearance including the water cooling, under the cowl.

[Doug Smock]

She looks great Douggie!:thumbup1:

If you hurry you can test it before the lake freezes, eh.:biggrin:

Good work mate!

Doug

[10gauge]

Spectacular looking boat! That canopy really looks sharp. I've heard that the wing really becomes functional over 40mph. Have you decided on the motor/battery/prop combination?

I've had an M-1 with a FDM 21EGSRA and Lehner 1950/10 lying around for a few months. I wanted to hold off building it until I finished and ran my Mean Machine. For my M-1, I am thinking about a light 6S set up with (2) 3S 30C 5000 mAh LiPos using the Lehner or a KB45-8XL motor and a x447 prop.

Let us know how it runs... The temperatures are falling fast!

[Stealth Assassin]

Nice work! I like the M-1.:buttrock:

Most people do not know this but, Primer Is not for adhesion of paint or a rust blocker. Primer Is for slicking the rough finish of what ever you are working on because you can sand It smooth.
So, In other words I would step up to a 1500 to 2000 grit wet paper and a good paint degreaser for painting gel coat unless you need to slick the seam out or fix any voids.

Most any gel coat needs to be cleaned of any pva/mold release before painting!

Just some tips for the road ladies.:wink:

MHO...
Derrick

[Flying Scotsman]

[QUOTE=10gauge;19319]Spectacular looking boat! That canopy really looks sharp. I've heard that the wing really becomes functional over 40mph. Have you decided on the motor/battery/prop combination?


Thank you all, for your compliments.

The motor, power and prop combo I thought about for a long time, with the help of SJFE and Reddy/Watts. I have decided on this sport combo with the stuff I have and the ability to upgrade.

KB45 10XL...Sentilon OSE RC 100HV....1 4500 2sp and 1 4500 3sp in series...Fullers offshore hardware....Hughey 150 flex...X640 to start with and yes Mr. Smock it is getting chilly up here!!

Douggie

[Flying Scotsman]

I was asked as to when I will apply decals etc.
The answer to this question is no.
I personally hate all decals, emblems. Let the car/boat run in the owner's colours and not some silly sponsors.

[SJFE]

Let the car/boat run in the owner's colours and not some silly sponsors.


Depends on who the sponsors are.