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View Full Version : New EKOS C1 Pre-Use Checklist



FighterCat57
05-01-2010, 01:58 PM
Learning the hard way sucks. I see I'm not the only one here who has with this tug.

So I'll start a list of what I've learned the hard way and recommend before use:

* Buy two (or more) 1/8th collars (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001846873&I=LXD833&P=K)for the prop shaft. Install them between the shaft tube and the coupler. Make sure to use blue loctite and careful not to strip the set screws. Do not run the boat without the collar! (use the opportunity to lube the shafts) This will help prevent lost drive shafts.

* Check Motor Mount bolts to make sure they are the correct length, if they appear long, add washers or replace if necessary. They are loose from the factory. Secure them with blue loctite and dab silicon around them to keep them from coming loose from vibration.

* Check coupler set screws, use blue loctite, careful not to strip them out. Optionally, use a 4mm tap and re-thread the couplers to use 4mm stainless set screws.

* Check the servo mount and apply more epoxy as required. Use blue loctite to secure screws, careful not to strip the aluminum threads.

* Replace the bare steel set screws on the prop dogs and the rudder set screws with stainless steel. They rust almost instantly.

* Use the cheap props util the setup has been proven, then risk the expensive ones.

* Make sure to seal the hatch completely. There is no bailing system.

Hope this helps!

Note* Admin please edit, re-write or make adjustments where appropriate.
________
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forescott
05-01-2010, 02:20 PM
I've got 2-more
* As with any F.E. boat, stop and check your temps after a few minutes run-time. If any one or more components are too hot, stop immediately. Dont burn a hole in your hull!!
* Dont make any attempts to run 4s packs with the factory electronics. No matter what the venom videos show, or what venom claims. And if your motors still work after a few minutes on 3s, consider yourself lucky!! :unsure:

Igoreski
05-01-2010, 03:43 PM
Remove motors before running and send back to Venom for Ammo or Feigao replacements!!!

forescott
05-03-2010, 12:41 AM
Remove motors before running and send back to Venom for Ammo or Feigao replacements!!!

Anyone looking to buy the ekos, if you can wait....,the ekos is supposed to get twin outrunners. Hopefully better quality than the current inrunners. Well see once the p-1 is released how its single inrunner holds up. :unsure:

FighterCat57
05-13-2010, 09:02 AM
Anyone looking to buy the ekos, if you can wait....,the ekos is supposed to get twin outrunners. Hopefully better quality than the current inrunners. Well see once the p-1 is released how its single inrunner holds up. :unsure:

One word. TRAXXAS!

I've run Revo's for years, they have their act together and will dominate if they so choose to do so.
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scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 08:38 PM
I WISH I COULD AGREE WITH ALL THIS ................BUT
I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT GREAT RESULTS FROM MY EKOS AND FROM
VENOM TECH SUPPORT
I HAVE BEEN RUNNING 4S 5000mah
SINCE DAY 1....8mins @ WFO NO PROBLEMS TO DATE...
CHECK THEAD TO SEE.
I WOULD LIKE TO ADD 1 MORE THING TO THE FE/EKOS CHECK LIST
AFTER EACH AND EVERY RUN,NO EXCEPTIONS,EVEN IF YOU JUST COME IN TO CHECK HEAT...SPARY WD-40 OR
SOME TYPE OF WATER SHED LUBE ON STINGER BEARINGS...DONT BE SHY WITH THE LUBE EITHER LAY IT ON.

Rumdog
05-13-2010, 08:54 PM
How are you fitting 4s 5000's in the boat?

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 09:08 PM
I'M USING DLG POWER 4S 5000mah PACKS
THEY FIT IN WITH NO MODS AT ALL........

FighterCat57
05-13-2010, 09:10 PM
How are you fitting 4s 5000's in the boat?

Yeah, please tell me more. My 5k's don't fit in the battery tray with the hull hatch on & I really don't want to cut up that tray to fit them. I can only get 50 x 33mm rubbing on the top hatch and use 4k's.

PS- scubasteve you don't have to agree with anything I write. Ever.
________
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FighterCat57
05-13-2010, 09:12 PM
Wow, 20c/pack. That could get really HOT.

I can't get away with 20c packs at 3s. Even 25c gets hot.

What props are you using?
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scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 09:45 PM
SO FAR BEN WE HAVE BEEN ON THE SAME PAGE:bowdown:
DON'T WORRY ,I'M SURE THAT WON'T LAST FOREVER.:beerchug:
THE DGL POWER LIPO'S HAVE A PCB INSTALLED FROM THE FACTORY,
NO OVER HEAT,OVER CHARGE,UNDER CHARGE,SHORT OUT, ETC....
PACKS ARE 20C-40 BURST,GO TO DLGPOWER.COM DON'T BUY WITH OUT WHEELING AND DEALING,I PAID $200.00 SHIPPED
FOR 4 -4CELL 5000mah PACKS.
THAT IS CORRECT 4 PACKS DELIVERED.

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 09:48 PM
I'M USING THE 36mm FIBER PROPS(STOCK)
I WILL BE USING 36mm VENOM PRO PROPS NEXT TIME OUT
SO FAR THE BOAT IS STOCK WITH ALITTLE EXTRA COOLING

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:03 PM
Scrach that web site,just go to ebay type in the search member space
(dlgpower) and go to there store they have as many as you need....

FighterCat57
05-13-2010, 10:16 PM
So a PCB prevents the battery pack from getting hot from current draw?

Please, tell me more.
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scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:24 PM
YES......................:rockon2:

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:27 PM
the pcb stops all failures...at least thats what they tell me and so far it works perfect.

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:33 PM
the packs get to about 120 degrees and start to shut down, the good news is thats about all the pack has left in it, cells are @ about 3.40v across the board.

Rumdog
05-13-2010, 10:34 PM
That is impossible.If my motor is pulling 120 amps continuous and the packs are 20c 5000 mah, they are only capable of 100 amps of continuous power, They WILL get hot, voltage will drop below lvc settings of the esc and that equals problems. How can a pcb on a battery stop my motor from pulling amps? How can it STOP heat?

Rumdog
05-13-2010, 10:35 PM
The system shuts down because the lvc in the esc is kicking in. How can a pack "start" to shut down?

Brushless55
05-13-2010, 10:51 PM
That is impossible.If my motor is pulling 120 amps continuous and the packs are 20c 5000 mah, they are only capable of 100 amps of continuous power, They WILL get hot, voltage will drop below lvc settings of the esc and that equals problems. How can a pcb on a battery stop my motor from pulling amps? How can it STOP heat?

:iagree:

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:51 PM
a pcb can do what ever it is designed to do.
if you are pulling 120 amps you should not be using a 20c 5000 pack to start with.
once battery gets to any of the cut off points it shuts down...its that simple.
just like a pcb in a lvc stops voltage from geting to low.

Brushless55
05-13-2010, 10:52 PM
I've got 2-more
* As with any F.E. boat, stop and check your temps after a few minutes run-time. If any one or more components are too hot, stop immediately. Dont burn a hole in your hull!!
* Dont make any attempts to run 4s packs with the factory electronics. No matter what the venom videos show, or what venom claims. And if your motors still work after a few minutes on 3s, consider yourself lucky!! :unsure:

and sell it quick! :bounce:

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:57 PM
I don't know why you guys have so much anger built up,can't someone that has nothing but good with this boat share it with others?

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 10:58 PM
GO TO THE VENOM 4S 5000mah LIKE BUTTER THEAD AND SEE HOW THIS 1 BOAT ACTS.

Rumdog
05-13-2010, 11:01 PM
It's not anger, just questions. Seems you are the only one having any luck with this boat at all. Therefore we want to know your setup details and why it may be working.

scubasteve95
05-13-2010, 11:03 PM
No problem............ask away..............

Brushless55
05-13-2010, 11:14 PM
GO TO THE VENOM 4S 5000mah LIKE BUTTER THEAD AND SEE HOW THIS 1 BOAT ACTS.

not good with the pickup on the bottom of the sponson like you have

Brushless55
05-13-2010, 11:16 PM
I WISH I COULD AGREE WITH ALL THIS ................BUT
I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT GREAT RESULTS FROM MY EKOS AND FROM
VENOM TECH SUPPORT
I HAVE BEEN RUNNING 4S 5000mah
SINCE DAY 1....8mins @ WFO NO PROBLEMS TO DATE...
CHECK THEAD TO SEE.
I WOULD LIKE TO ADD 1 MORE THING TO THE FE/EKOS CHECK LIST
AFTER EACH AND EVERY RUN,NO EXCEPTIONS,EVEN IF YOU JUST COME IN TO CHECK HEAT...SPARY WD-40 OR
SOME TYPE OF WATER SHED LUBE ON STINGER BEARINGS...DONT BE SHY WITH THE LUBE EITHER LAY IT ON.

so you only have 8mins of run time?
and you should use grease on the bearings, WD does not lube like grease will

FighterCat57
05-14-2010, 06:58 AM
so you only have 8mins of run time?
and you should use grease on the bearings, WD does not lube like grease will

Isn't WD used to clean off good grease? At least that's what I use it for. :confused2:
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FighterCat57
05-14-2010, 07:02 AM
BTW- I'm really glad to hear of your successes and am really looking forward to some video.

=)
________
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scubasteve95
05-14-2010, 10:02 AM
The instruction man states oil drive bearing with a light bearing oil.
Wd is the easy way to do this...
How do you get the grease inside the bearing house?
Grease up the shaft does not get the bearing.

scubasteve95
05-14-2010, 10:04 AM
8 mins run time @ wfo..........

nomobux
05-14-2010, 11:01 AM
The instruction man states oil drive bearing with a light bearing oil.
Wd is the easy way to do this...
How do you get the grease inside the bearing house?
Grease up the shaft does not get the bearing.

WD = water displacer = NOT oil.

Jeff Wohlt
05-14-2010, 11:27 AM
You will never get greae in the bearing...use light oil. I use hair trimmer oil or Trinity bearing oil. Trimmer oil is water resistant and thanks to Andy Kunz for that tip!

FighterCat57
05-14-2010, 11:39 AM
WD has some lubrication properties, but it is primarily used to displace water and rinses off. It has no staying power like a light oil, such as sewing machine oil or gun oils which are made to adhere to metal surfaces. It's not the best choice, but might help you get by.

I noticed you changed the couplers to hex couplers. Have you had to replace a shaft?

Have any of the wood/mounts come loose?

I'd like to see more photos of the motor mounts...
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FighterCat57
05-14-2010, 11:40 AM
You will never get greae in the bearing...use light oil. I use hair trimmer oil or Trinity bearing oil. Trimmer oil is water resistant and thanks to Andy Kunz for that tip!

Nice. Trimmer oil. Thanks! (I was typing while you posted, sorry)
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scubasteve95
05-14-2010, 02:04 PM
THANX FOR ALL THE INPUT...TRIMMER OIL SOUNDS GOOD TO ME TO..I JUST FIGURED IF I KEEP UP ON IT THE WD WOULD WORK,I SOAKEM EVERY TIME THE BOAT COMES OUT OF THE WATER FOR ANY REASON.THE HEX IS NICE BUT YOU NEED TO FIND A 4mm MOTOR SHAFT AND A 3mm FELX HEX,I AM USEING A 4 TO 4 AND SHIM THE FLEX SIDE..SO FAR SO GOOD,NEVER LOST ANYTHING (YET).MOUNTS AND ALL OTHER HARD POINTS ARE SOILD,NO ISSUES(YET)

Brushless55
05-14-2010, 03:43 PM
WD = water displacer = NOT oil.

Bingo! :bounce:

VIKOS
05-15-2010, 07:57 PM
with the upgrades that are offered from 4 set screw couplers to better shafts and dog gears you won't have that problem of losing shafts and props...personally I don't even want to sell my boat its amazing. Works great in ocean conditions like yo uwould not know..which makes it realistic

scubasteve95
05-15-2010, 10:39 PM
Good for you vikos,:beerchug:
glad to see your having as much fun as i am....
But beware...............................:spy:
No one on this site wants to see anyone have fun with this boat........
The anal factor is very high here.....
I'm waiting to get band for having a different opinion then the top dogs....

scubasteve95
05-15-2010, 10:44 PM
Go to you local motorcycle shop
and get jet ski spray lube
sprays like wd but is a high grade synth oil (unlike trimer oil)
and is flink/waterproof........

VIKOS
05-16-2010, 12:43 AM
personally I only lube the bearings every 5 runs and I remove them and let the msoak in royal purple synerlic oil for about 20 minutes and pop them back in...my question is the flex hoses that the shafts go into..is it really needed or can run with out I see alot of gasoline boats that just have flex shaft no shaft tubing...

Rumdog
05-16-2010, 11:30 AM
:blah::blah::blah::blah::blah::blah: We try to help YOU out so you dont burn up your boat. We also dont want others to burn up theirs. Do what you want. The fact remains, 4s will end in carnage and nobody should run it if they want a boat that's gonna last.

scubasteve95
05-16-2010, 02:47 PM
GO TO www.rcraceboat.com
AND E-MAIL HIM ,HE GAVE ME A GOOD EXAMPLE AND I DO NOT WANT TO
MIS-QUOTE HIM...ITS ALSO ON HIS SITE(Q&A)
HE ALSO HAS NICE STUFF FOR UP-GRADES

Jeff Wohlt
05-16-2010, 03:36 PM
You can always spray out with WD40 but just do not use it as a lube. IF you want a spray for lube then use a Triflow or something that actaully has a good lube in it...TriFlow has teflon in it. I have not seen it for a while but used to be great stuff and we used in copy machines and could take the heat well around the fuser area.