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FighterCat57
04-28-2010, 05:58 PM
OK, I've got a new EKOS, but so far I've spit the port prop shaft, chunked up the port motor and melted/fried the port ESC in less than 5 minutes of total run time on 5000mah 20c 3s packs with the stock props.

I was able to order and install the new prop shaft & drive dog with a matching extra prop that was in the box it came in.

That's when the port motor died, taking the ESC with it. I talked with Venom support and sent the ESC's and Motors in for Warranty, but was informed it would be mid-May for the motor.

So in the mean time, I've done some research reading and done the following:

* ordered a couple 1/8th collars to keep the shaft from falling into the water. Wish I had known this ahead of time. Would have saved my shaft. I liked the silicon tube over the shaft too. Quick and inexpensive.

* replaced all the set screws/exterior screws with stainless to help prevent rust.

* replaced the servo with a Bluebird waterproof servo and a waterproof 2.4Ghz Radio/Receiver. (preference)

* Heat shrink/silicone sealed the radio/ESC connectors to help reduce corrosion. (I'm in salt water here)

* Added heat shrink & silicone to the motor connectors to prevent vibration from shorting them

* greased the shaft with "Speed Grease"

* molded a silicone seal around the hatch to make it water resistant. Like a sunroof on a car.

* waxed the hull with several coats of "Liquid Glass".

* Re-Installed every screw/nut with blue thread lock.

Is there anything I may have missed?
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Rumdog
04-28-2010, 06:23 PM
Does anyone ever just say eff it and send it back. This crap is unacceptable!

hex-dj
04-28-2010, 07:31 PM
OK, I've got a new EKOS, but so far I've spit the port prop shaft, chunked up the port motor and melted/fried the port ESC in less than 5 minutes of total run time on 5000mah 20c 3s packs with the stock props.

I was able to order and install the new prop shaft & drive dog with a matching extra prop that was in the box it came in.

That's when the port motor died, taking the ESC with it. I talked with Venom support and sent the ESC's and Motors in for Warranty, but was informed it would be mid-May for the motor.

So in the mean time, I've done some research reading and done the following:

* ordered a couple 1/8th collars to keep the shaft from falling into the water. Wish I had known this ahead of time. Would have saved my shaft. I liked the silicon tube over the shaft too. Quick and inexpensive.

* replaced all the set screws/exterior screws with stainless to help prevent rust.

* replaced the servo with a Bluebird waterproof servo and a waterproof 2.4Ghz Radio/Receiver. (preference)

* Heat shrink/silicone sealed the radio/ESC connectors to help reduce corrosion. (I'm in salt water here)

* greased the shaft with "Speed Grease"

* molded a silicone seal around the hatch to make it water resistant. Like a sunroof on a car.

* waxed the hull with several coats of "Liquid Glass".

* Re-Installed every screw/nut with blue thread lock.

Is there anything I may have missed?
Hello Benjamin! I ve found out that the screws that tighten the motors in my EKOS came too long and may burn a motor even without running the EKOS in the water, due to direct contact with the windings. I already burned a motor without even taking the boat to the water... I did some reasearch and discovered that the tightening motor screws that came with the boat were too long and that the burnt motor s windings did have contact with the screws so I decided to shorten those screws and everything has worked great so far.

FighterCat57
04-28-2010, 08:27 PM
Hello Benjamin! I ve found out that the screws that tighten the motors in my EKOS came too long and may burn a motor even without running the EKOS in the water, due to direct contact with the windings. I already burned a motor without even taking the boat to the water... I did some reasearch and discovered that the tightening motor screws that came with the boat were too long and that the burnt motor s windings did have contact with the screws so I decided to shorten those screws and everything has worked great so far.

OMG! I sent both motors back as the starboard side felt messed up as well. That might explain why. That's a big mess up. I'll make sure it goes together with the right size screws. Wow.

All the other brushless stuff I've had has been bullet proof. I was really surprised with this one. I'm wondering if I should just build one instead.
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FighterCat57
04-28-2010, 08:32 PM
Does anyone ever just say eff it and send it back. This crap is unacceptable!

Unfortunately Tower only accepts things if they are in new condition, once used the manufacturer prefers to be dealt with directly. Venom has been good to deal with thus far and setup and RMA for the ESC/Motors. Just taking some time...

If it were an option, I would have preferred to sent it back and ask for a new one. That would be nice.
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Jeff Wohlt
04-28-2010, 09:59 PM
Welcome to the RTR world! Nah...I should not say that because it is a very nice hull but QC better get on the ball. Too long of motor screws is just complete nonsense from the factory.

I would forget the stock motors and get some 380XLs, new shafts that are stronger and new couplers and be set....well and two new ESCs. Now you know why they hulls are never in stock.

I will buy the hull and build it myself.

FighterCat57
04-28-2010, 10:11 PM
Welcome to the RTR world! Nah...I should not say that because it is a very nice hull but QC better get on the ball. Too long of motor screws is just complete nonsense from the factory.

I would forget the stock motors and get some 380XLs, new shafts that are stronger and new couplers and be set....well and two new ESCs. Now you know why they hulls are never in stock.

I will buy the hull and build it myself.

RTR = Ready to Replace? :confused2:

I have a couple of Neu 2650's from buggys and Turnigy 120's from another project that might solve all of these problems.

Fitting the 540 motors in the EKOS is the current obstacle. Still haven't found the solution I'm looking for. Even considering making an adapter plate.

I have some glass experience, but would rather bolt on if possible.
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forescott
04-29-2010, 12:48 AM
RTR = Ready to Replace? :confused2:

I have a couple of Neu 2650's from buggys and Turnigy 120's from another project that might solve all of these problems.

Fitting the 540 motors in the EKOS is the current obstacle. Still haven't found the solution I'm looking for. Even considering making an adapter plate.

I have some glass experience, but would rather bolt on if possible.

Use your turnigy 120's and buy a pair of feigao 380-9xl's from ose when they come back in stock. They bolt in nicely and really wake up the performance of the ekos. Fitting 540's is too much trouble IMO, The 380xl compares to a 540s anyways. Good luck!!

hex-dj
04-29-2010, 07:11 AM
Use your turnigy 120's and buy a pair of feigao 380-9xl's from ose when they come back in stock. They bolt in nicely and really wake up the performance of the ekos. Fitting 540's is too much trouble IMO, The 380xl compares to a 540s anyways. Good luck!!
Yes fitting 540s is a lot of trouble. Thats why I decided to go with the following setup which has worked awesomely for me so far.
Dont know if anyone else has tried a setup like mine:Speed/heating testings have been great so far , soon I will try to get the MPH on Radar gun
My Venom EKOS setup:
Radio/Transmiter: Spektrum DSM
Hull :Bottom sanded
Motors: Twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kv (Villain EX 550 cooling system on both motors)
ESCs: Stock Venom PRO Marine 60A ESCs with two 2,200 uf capacitors instaled
Batteries: Two Venom 5000 mah 4S (Also removed all wood from the boat. Trays etc.) Epoxied inside the hull and added more fiber glass
Propellers : Two Octura x 442 p/s/b , heavily detongued with lighter weight
Stinger drives : Almost all the way up
Center of gravity: Lowered to a maximum and having the batteries placed in front of the motors instead and the ESCs high where the batteries used to go.
Servo: Hi Tec (HS 85+) Hi speed ,Hi torque, Metal gear version
Added foam floatation ,took out a lot of drag from the boat
Cooling system: Opened Rudder/ Strut hole been used for cooling both motors using a T adaptor from Pep Boys for both hooses
***Willing to test it on 5S some day with my other X 442 s . Reduced props size from 42 mm probably to 38-39 mm instead***:bounce:

FighterCat57
04-29-2010, 12:22 PM
I'm going to attempt to make some non-invasive 540 motor mount adapters. There are two unused 4mm taps at the top of the mounts and I'm thinking that if I use a piece of 1/8th aluminum angle, that I can simply "bolt on" to the existing mount.

Using counter sunk screws to mount the motor with all four of the 24/12mm pattern and two counter sunk, threaded, epoxied mounting screws that will be nutted to the existing adapter. Might even try to pin them in place. They are the only weak part. If one twists and spins... it'll have to be cut out... Might just leave them out if it's strong enough without them. Two 4mm at the top might be enough... We'll see.

This will allow me to have the option of using a 540 motor should the stock motors fail again. I'll keep waiting on the warranty process in the mean time and hopefully be able to resolve it without making any changes...

Photos to follow...

And here I bought an RTR so I wouldn't have to mess with it. :doh:

I'm still considering buying a new hull and building a second one. Perhaps with a single motor... Not sure if that's a good way to go or not.. Lot's of parts...
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FighterCat57
04-29-2010, 02:10 PM
OK, I made a rough prototype... really rough, but proved that this concept WILL WORK. =)

Just using the top two 4mm screws is enough to prevent the motor from lifting and secure it to the mount. Some silicone would be used for final installation to help reduce vibration.

Now... who's the machine shop guy that want's to make them? :thumbup:
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forescott
04-29-2010, 11:47 PM
Yes fitting 540s is a lot of trouble. Thats why I decided to go with the following setup which has worked awesomely for me so far.
Dont know if anyone else has tried a setup like mine:Speed/heating testings have been great so far , soon I will try to get the MPH on Radar gun
My Venom EKOS setup:
Radio/Transmiter: Spektrum DSM
Hull :Bottom sanded
Motors: Twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kv (Villain EX 550 cooling system on both motors)
ESCs: Stock Venom PRO Marine 60A ESCs with two 2,200 uf capacitors instaled
Batteries: Two Venom 5000 mah 4S (Also removed all wood from the boat. Trays etc.) Epoxied inside the hull and added more fiber glass
Propellers : Two Octura x 442 p/s/b , heavily detongued with lighter weight
Stinger drives : Almost all the way up
Center of gravity: Lowered to a maximum and having the batteries placed in front of the motors instead and the ESCs high where the batteries used to go.
Servo: Hi Tec (HS 85+) Hi speed ,Hi torque, Metal gear version
Added foam floatation ,took out a lot of drag from the boat
Cooling system: Opened Rudder/ Strut hole been used for cooling both motors using a T adaptor from Pep Boys for both hooses
***Willing to test it on 5S some day with my other X 442 s . Reduced props size from 42 mm probably to 38-39 mm instead***:bounce:

I've been wanting to try those motors, but I would think placing the batteries in front of the motors would put your center of gravity way too far forward and make the hull run really wet.

hex-dj
04-30-2010, 06:56 AM
I've been wanting to try those motors, but I would think placing the batteries in front of the motors would put your center of gravity way too far forward and make the hull run really wet.

Yep . The COG can get it to run too wet like that ,mine has never flipped so far at full throtle. That s why my stinger drives are all the way up. I ve just sent for more powerfull 120 amp PRO ESCs too, because I may want to try out the Neu 1115 1Y or 2D , 380 "Extra Long"motors. Pics from my twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kv setup are coming soon. :eek:

FighterCat57
04-30-2010, 11:45 AM
Now... who's the machine shop guy that want's to make them? :thumbup:

That's a serious question. I think it would be a decent seller. After all how many people have wanted to put 540 motors in their EKOS?

Being able to do that without changing the motor mount would be worth a few bucks, easy.

If there's no takers, I'll most likely end up having my buddy at a local machine shop make one. Hate bugging him with this little stuff though. Busy shop.
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forescott
05-01-2010, 01:08 AM
Yep . The COG can get it to run too wet like that ,mine has never flipped so far at full throtle. That s why my stinger drives are all the way up. I ve just sent for more powerfull 120 amp PRO ESCs too, because I may want to try out the Neu 1115 1Y or 2D , 380 "Extra Long"motors. Pics from my twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kv setup are coming soon. :eek:

I have a pair of the turnigy 120's and feigao 380-9xl's 2612kv. I love the setup! 55mph so far!

Rumdog
05-01-2010, 01:42 AM
Is anyone reliably running the stock setup on the recommended voltage and props? I haven't heard any good news.

hex-dj
05-03-2010, 08:50 AM
Yep . The COG can get it to run too wet like that ,mine has never flipped so far at full throtle. That s why my stinger drives are all the way up. I ve just sent for more powerfull 120 amp PRO ESCs too, because I may want to try out the Neu 1115 1Y or 2D , 380 "Extra Long"motors. Pics from my twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kv setup are coming soon. :eek:

***Here are some pics of my setup still using the stock ESC s ,Twin Ammo 28-56-2300 Kvs , Octura x 442 , 4 S LiPOs and Traxxas Villain EX 550 water cooling system!*** :rockon2:

FighterCat57
05-10-2010, 10:11 PM
Is anyone reliably running the stock setup on the recommended voltage and props? I haven't heard any good news.

I'm starting to think the 36mm props are too big. I'll be able to say more as I continue testing, but I have a hunch since they were overheating a 120 amp 540 setup.


I setup the stock 60a ESC's with 36-56 2700Kv motors and the stock 36/3 props.
They have 4mm 32/3 props, but did not come with them.

We'll see how it handles in the morning. :unsure:

PS- I'm almost positive the ESC's are the Hobbywing/Turnigy/Seaking 60's.
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FighterCat57
05-11-2010, 06:57 PM
I'm really starting to think that I just got a poorly assembled boat, as if some new factory worker made a lot of mistakes in the assembly process. The paint is now flaking off of the hull and bubbling up in wierd places, mostly around the decals. The clear coat is really thin and allows the water to penetrate, dries and peels the coating off.

Most all of the hardware was loose and most all of the inside wood has come unglued from lack of epoxy binding.

This all points to very poor assembly work and a boat with problems that were clearly missed by QA. I've contacted Venom for suggestions.

I did pay retail for this boat and I expect retail service to go along with the retail price. Hopefully we'll be able to work something out and turn this in to a positive experience for all.
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Rumdog
05-11-2010, 07:23 PM
Do you run in salt water? If so, do you rinse everything when done running. I really don't think that salt water should make paint peel,buy it couldn't hurt to rinse afterward.

forescott
05-11-2010, 07:45 PM
I'm really starting to think that I just got a poorly assembled boat, as if some new factory worker made a lot of mistakes in the assembly process. The paint is now flaking off of the hull and bubbling up in wierd places, mostly around the decals. The clear coat is really thin and allows the water to penetrate, dries and peels the coating off.

Most all of the hardware was loose and most all of the inside wood has come unglued from lack of epoxy binding.

This all points to very poor assembly work and a boat with problems that were clearly missed by QA. I've contacted Venom for suggestions.

I did pay retail for this boat and I expect retail service to go along with the retail price. Hopefully we'll be able to work something out and turn this in to a positive experience for all.

Aside from having 2- motors go bad. I received mine with a flex shaft that had a different thread pattern, and the prop nut would only spin on 1/2 turn. I ended up just purchasing extra flex shafts because venom wanted me to ship the shaft back to them to take a look at it.(didnt want to wait that long) Also the first time I put their included hatch tape on, it peeled the paint off the chevron design at the back of the hull/hatch.(That really upset me) And then there was the couplers that couldnt hold on to the flex shafts.(I lost 2.) Shortly after I burnt up 2-stock motors on 3s. In all fairness the 2nd time was my fault for running a set of octura 442's.(way too big for those motors) However the customer service that I received was pretty good. I had to wait a while for the motor but they were willing to work with me and were prompt to respond and courtious. So my overall experience with venom has been good and bad. Its been about a year since all of my issues and since I decided to fix all the problems myself, without involving venom, Ive had a lot of fun with it, modifying components and trying out different motors/props. I really wish venom would have used higher quality motors, better couplers, and maybe a little better quality control. but I guess you cant please everyone, and the ekos is still one of my favorite boats to this day. :noidea:

FighterCat57
05-11-2010, 08:03 PM
Do you run in salt water? If so, do you rinse everything when done running. I really don't think that salt water should make paint peel,buy it couldn't hurt to rinse afterward.

Yep. Run them all in salt water and give them a good bath when done. I have a bicycle that's several years old now that I ride on the beach in the water. Not a spot of rust. Good maintenance and salt water is your friend. =)

Water shouldn't be getting under the paint. Period.
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FighterCat57
05-11-2010, 08:17 PM
Aside from having 2- motors go bad. I received mine with a flex shaft that had a different thread pattern, and the prop nut would only spin on 1/2 turn. I ended up just purchasing extra flex shafts because venom wanted me to ship the shaft back to them to take a look at it.(didnt want to wait that long) Also the first time I put their included hatch tape on, it peeled the paint off the chevron design at the back of the hull/hatch.(That really upset me) And then there was the couplers that couldnt hold on to the flex shafts.(I lost 2.) Shortly after I burnt up 2-stock motors on 3s. In all fairness the 2nd time was my fault for running a set of octura 442's.(way too big for those motors) However the customer service that I received was pretty good. I had to wait a while for the motor but they were willing to work with me and were prompt to respond and courtious. So my overall experience with venom has been good and bad. Its been about a year since all of my issues and since I decided to fix all the problems myself, without involving venom, Ive had a lot of fun with it, modifying components and trying out different motors/props. I really wish venom would have used higher quality motors, better couplers, and maybe a little better quality control. but I guess you cant please everyone, and the ekos is still one of my favorite boats to this day. :noidea:

Yeah, I've had all the same problems (except the prop). I'm working with Jason and basically asking for his help in turning this into a positive experience. I don't mind waiting for parts, since I have plenty of other setups to run. The tape peeled off the pin striping on mine as well, but that's typical of a cheap clear coat over pin stripe tape. I have big sheets of clear coat and chunks of fiberglass coming off of the hull.

Right now, it's all on them. If they are willing to stand behind their product, I'm willing to work with them and even help cover their costs to make this right.

If I get a new hull, it'll go for a proper marine seal at the shipyard down the street. No worrys then.

If they don't work with me, I'll just buy that Avenger I've been oogling and scuttle this one with a pound of black powder in the Atlantic Ocean and put it on youtube for the world to see. (how awful!) But would make me feel better. :w00t:

... to be continued...
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forescott
05-11-2010, 08:38 PM
Avenger??? more info.

FighterCat57
05-11-2010, 09:07 PM
Avenger??? more info.

Yeah, I've been oogling the Avenger Pro since I first saw it... And for the time and $$ I've wasted on this boat, I could have built the Avenger by now!

So, I may just call it quits on the EKOS and build me an Avenger. It would certainly be worth the time and money and I'm sure the hull would be nice. I'd set it up with twin 180a's and 1515's on 4s6p. There's room for 6 packs in there! Probably more! :rockon2:
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FighterCat57
05-12-2010, 03:00 PM
Aside from having 2- motors go bad. I received mine with a flex shaft that had a different thread pattern, and the prop nut would only spin on 1/2 turn. I ended up just purchasing extra flex shafts because venom wanted me to ship the shaft back to them to take a look at it.(didnt want to wait that long) Also the first time I put their included hatch tape on, it peeled the paint off the chevron design at the back of the hull/hatch.(That really upset me) And then there was the couplers that couldnt hold on to the flex shafts.(I lost 2.) Shortly after I burnt up 2-stock motors on 3s. In all fairness the 2nd time was my fault for running a set of octura 442's.(way too big for those motors) However the customer service that I received was pretty good. I had to wait a while for the motor but they were willing to work with me and were prompt to respond and courtious. So my overall experience with venom has been good and bad. Its been about a year since all of my issues and since I decided to fix all the problems myself, without involving venom, Ive had a lot of fun with it, modifying components and trying out different motors/props. I really wish venom would have used higher quality motors, better couplers, and maybe a little better quality control. but I guess you cant please everyone, and the ekos is still one of my favorite boats to this day. :noidea:

I had to tap out one of their pro nuts too. Very poor quality. This whole boat is a very cheapened up product IMO. Every component is just one notch below par. One notch up and this would have been an excellent boat. Just one notch up... I'm wondering what really made this boat worth $500?

I took the hull to the local dock shop that refurbishes real boats, they guy said it was most likely just cheap paint without UV protection... The decals shrink & crack under the clear coat from sun exposure. Explains why I'm only having top hull damage. So I guess I should have kept it out of the sun? (not like I leave it out, it's only out when I run it! ) Perhaps a wax sunblock on the hull? Perhaps a bimini top? :cool2:

FYI- So far the only suggestion by Venom is to buy a scratch & dented hull on eBay for retail price... I would be willing to work with them at cost, but they shouldn't be making a profit from product failures!

http://cgi.ebay.com/King-Shaves-C1-34in-Brushless-Boat-Hull-/320528587145?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item4aa0fe1989#ht_500wt_956

On the bright side...
The laser cut wood stand is nice and foam lined is good. The overall appearance is pretty cool. I like the air tubes and the see-thru hull hatch window. The picture on the box is neat...

I don't regret buying it though. It's taught me quite a bit about FE Boats!
Mostly, what to avoid! :w00t:
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Rumdog
05-12-2010, 04:57 PM
Gee I sure am glad I didn't buy one when they came out!

FighterCat57
05-12-2010, 06:17 PM
Gee I sure am glad I didn't buy one when they came out!

Are you sure? Because I was just offered 20% off retail for a replacement hull. (Same price as Tower without applying any Tower discounts) :doh:

This is Venom's opportunity to make good on a defective retail product that was purchased at retail price from an authorized retailer.

There's nothing I can do aside from offer them the opportunity to make good and even offer to help recoup their expenses in making good on a defect.

I'm certainly not going to buy another when this one is defective.
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scubasteve95
06-05-2010, 01:46 AM
Is anyone reliably running the stock setup on the recommended voltage and props? I haven't heard any good news.

I AM,
I GAVE YOU ALL THE INFO, I HAVE BEEN RUNNUNG 3s & 4s
WHAT EVER I COULD GET,
BUT ALL YOU DID WAS TRY TO BE SUPERIOR AND FOCUS ON 4s.
AND INSTED OF ASKING ME
TO CHECK THIS OR RUN LIKE THAT,ALL YOU GUYS DID WAS
CUT ME UP,MAKE STUPID COMMENTS AND USED STEVE-O THE
GREATEST ACTOR OF THIS CENTURY'S NAME IN VAIN AND
MIS-SPELLED IT TOO.
YOU DON'T WANT TO HEAR ANY GOOD NEWS
YOU GOT WHAT YOU GAVE.....GRIEF...SO MAYBE YOU DON'T KNOW AS
MUCH AS YOU THINK YOU DO OR JUST MAYBE YOUR TO CLOSED MINDED TO
ANY NEW WAY OF DOING SOMETHING.....
I CAN'T SAY ALL JUST A FEW OF YOU (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE)
SO ENJOY LOOKING AT YOUR BOAT ON A SHELF.:blah::blah::blah:

VIKOS
06-05-2010, 09:56 AM
I too run in salt water here in the USVI and never had issues with paint bubbling. That's in 80 degrees all year round. I wash my boat after every use. I also blow fresh water thru the jackets for about a minute each. And use a mist bottle in side the hatch to get any salt residue off batteries etc. Pretty much these boats handle pretty good in kays or calm days at the harbour. We have just as much glassy salt water lagoons as fresh water lagoons just gave to clean a bit more. Also Johnson marine grease. Great for salt water applications And last along time. Just waiting on better shafts and couplers and speed prop screws then it's back to running at the lagoon against the nitro and gas guys. I'm the only FE out there and still hold my own. Sucks that u maybe need 3 sets of lipos with 15 -20 cool down. To be able to make a day of it cause waiting 45 minutes per battery sucks on 3s 20c 4000mah. Looking at maybe another set or 4s 3500. Till motors die and it's time to buy xl's with turnigy 120A or higher for the future. Looking to run 6s eventually but for boat drag races and 4s for recreational purposes.

forescott
06-05-2010, 10:20 AM
I too run in salt water here in the USVI and never had issues with paint bubbling. That's in 80 degrees all year round. I wash my boat after every use. I also blow fresh water thru the jackets for about a minute each. And use a mist bottle in side the hatch to get any salt residue off batteries etc. Pretty much these boats handle pretty good in kays or calm days at the harbour. We have just as much glassy salt water lagoons as fresh water lagoons just gave to clean a bit more. Also Johnson marine grease. Great for salt water applications And last along time. Just waiting on better shafts and couplers and speed prop screws then it's back to running at the lagoon against the nitro and gas guys. I'm the only FE out there and still hold my own. Sucks that u maybe need 3 sets of lipos with 15 -20 cool down. To be able to make a day of it cause waiting 45 minutes per battery sucks on 3s 20c 4000mah. Looking at maybe another set or 4s 3500. Till motors die and it's time to buy xl's with turnigy 120A or higher for the future. Looking to run 6s eventually but for boat drag races and 4s for recreational purposes.

Wait until you see how your boat performs with xl's on 4s, its a whole different boat! 6s is over the top and asking for trouble in my opinion. :Peace_Sign: