Syncron build-newbie

[BHChieftain]

Ok, just received my Syncron order today (thanks Steve).

The only other boat I've ran is a RTR Proboat Fastech, so this is really my first assembly job.

Basic question #1: I have a Castle Hydro 240 ESC. This ESC is really two 120 ESCs glued together, and the input/output wires are double sets of 10gauge wires. What's the best method to solder these onto the motor wires? In this situation, I'd have 3 really thick wires coming together. Is there a nifty splice to use, or should I solder these onto some sort of metal bracket to joint them?

Should I solder the ESC wires directly to the motor wires, or is there some reason I'd want to use bullet connectors between them?

Basic question #2: For the driveline, should I install a thrust bearing? What size for a feigao 540XL?

Basic questinon #3: I'm planning on running two 2S1P packs in serial, using 6mm bullet connectors. Should I be using 10gauge wires for the harness?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, and I'll post my progress and pics.

Thanks
Chief

[tiqueman]

Ok, just received my Syncron order today (thanks Steve).

The only other boat I've ran is a RTR Proboat Fastech, so this is really my first assembly job.

Basic question #1: I have a Castle Hydro 240 ESC. This ESC is really two 120 ESCs glued together, and the input/output wires are double sets of 10gauge wires. What's the best method to solder these onto the motor wires? In this situation, I'd have 3 really thick wires coming together. Is there a nifty splice to use, or should I solder these onto some sort of metal bracket to joint them?

without seeing it, not sure.. I built some connectors for a parallel set up (see pic) Something like that might work?

Should I solder the ESC wires directly to the motor wires, or is there some reason I'd want to use bullet connectors between them? Most use bullets

Basic question #2: For the driveline, should I install a thrust bearing? What size for a feigao 540XL? Its a 5mm, OSE has them

Basic questinon #3: I'm planning on running two 2S1P packs in serial, using 6mm bullet connectors. Should I be using 10gauge wires for the harness? Dont need a harness. Just connect one batts + to - and use the left over + and neg off the batt to go to the ESC

I'm sure I'll have more questions, and I'll post my progress and pics.

Thanks
Chief

Gunna be a nice build Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 1: Gasp! Where to begin???

Key Observations/Activities
-Here you can see the double wires on the ESC which need to be connected to the single wires on the motor (will have the same situation on the battery side)

-Wife sees the boat for the first time, and heads over to look at the credit card bill

-Son thinks he got ripped off on the Proboat Fastech I got for him in December


Chief

[Jeepers]

you don't need to make any connectors to wire the two esc wires together, just solder one wire to the other and then solder it one single bullet. The BEST connection between the esc and motor would be to solder the wires together with out bullets, but it is a pain to unsolder and resolder them at the lake if you have to change out an esc or motor. I just use connectors between the esc and motor to save me a headache!

[tiqueman]

I agree, after seeing the pics, theres no reason the wires cant go together. You will have plenty of room using 5.5 bullets to make it all happen and shrink up nicely.

[BHChieftain]

Alright, I'll give that approach a go.
Thanks,
Chief

[Steven Vaccaro]

There are a couple of ways to do the wires. I strip about an 1" off each wire, then wrap one wire about the other and use a thin piece of copper wire to hold it together, then solder the whole thing together. There are some threads and pictures of this somewhere.

[BHChieftain]

I'm looking for layout ideas. I've seen this thread with Steven's setup, anybody else have a Syncron layout they would like to share? Note, mine has a flood chamber.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=361

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

I found this article on wiring, with emphasis on separating "clean" and "dirty" wires. Also, at the end there was a comment about grounding (earthing) the boat by connecting the negative power source to something that would remain submerged like the shaft tube. What do you guys think about this?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/fast.electrics/wiring.htm

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 2: Soldering connectors

-Soldered 6mm bullet connectors to the lipos and motor. Ran out of connectors to finish the ESC, will do that next time. The wires look to be 10 gauge, took a little while for my 40W iron to heat up the wire enough to take the solder, but it did work.

-Stripped the wires, and tinned the ends before attaching to the connectors.

-Used my gas stove in the kitchen to heat the shrinkwrap as I don't have a heat gun. Worked great.

-Chief

[tiqueman]

Day 2: Soldering connectors

-Soldered 6mm bullet connectors to the lipos and motor. Ran out of connectors to finish the ESC, will do that next time. The wires look to be 10 gauge, took a little while for my 40W iron to heat up the wire enough to take the solder, but it did work.

-Stripped the wires, and tinned the ends before attaching to the connectors.

-Used my gas stove in the kitchen to heat the shrinkwrap as I don't have a heat gun. Worked great.

-Chief

Lookin like progress. :thumbup1: You can also use your soldering iron to heat the shrink wrap. Then you dont have to get up to go to the stove. Or you can use a hair dryer if one is available.

[BHChieftain]

Day 3-
Redid soldering connectors on Day 2... I had the female bullet on the neg leads off the battery...

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 4-

Tried to solder the Hydra 240 10g leads together with the 40W iron and gave up... picked up a Weller 140/100W gun, worked much better.

Read thru tips on how to join these wires, settled on wrapping them together with 24gauge copper wire and also soldering the end of the 2nd wire to the outside of the bullet. Came out nice!

Installed the motor water cooling sleeve, thrust bearing, and connected the radio, server, motor, ESC, and lipos to see if all worked.... success!

Question though-- there's no "on-off" switch on this setup, and I get a hellava arc when I connect the batteries to the ESC. Is there a way to minimize the spark?

-Chief

[ace028]

I like your pliers in post #10!!! Those are my favorite pliers in my tool box, I got the same pair!

Nice build btw!!!

[BHChieftain]

Day 5:

-Install Traxxas waterproof servo. The syncron I ordered came with hardware and a mount for the servo. The traxxas servo is not perfectly rectangular, so I needed to file out a space for the gear bulge (not too much). Also, the screw holes did not exactly match up, so I needed to file out a bit more room on the servo screw tabs.

-Had a hard time getting a screwdriver into the rear of the boat to screw down the servo. Resorted to a jeweler's screwdriver, with a vice grip clamped on for leverage, worked well.

-What about floatation... I scavenged my daughter's old swim float made by Speedo (you hold the float between your legs, and only swim with arms for arm- workouts). I split it in half, and it fits PERFECTLY into the syncron hull.

-Put her in the tub, getting some leaking along the strut mounts. I'll need to put some silicon sealant around that. Good news is the flood chamber is water tight.

Almost ready! Just need to finish waterproofing and install the cooling system.

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Here are the pics of the floatation.

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 6

Read a few posts about coupler problems and losing drive shafts, so I decided to take a closer look at the drive hardware shipped with the syncron. Looks like a pretty good design-- the coupler has a sleeve inside that grabs the flex shaft, and has flat spots cut to accept 2 set screws to clamp it down. Seems pretty bullet proof.

But I still needed to grind a flat spot on the motor shaft. Marked the set screw location with a sharpie, and cut it freehand with a dremel tool using a grind wheel attachment--it was a lot easier than I thought it would be, only took a minute with a light touch. Thanks all for the tips on sealing the motor in a plastic bag to protect it from metal shavings! Used loctite on the set screws and motor mount screws when I put it back in the boat.

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 7-

Installed cooling system. That hydra 240 is a pain in the &*#, between the double 10g wires and double cooling lines. The ESC is basically two 120 hydras clamped together...

Anyway, cut a hole in the hull to accept the water outlet (gasp!), and then spent about a 1/2 hour getting the cooling lines on the ESC... the cooling line is thick, and there is very little space between the dual sets of water intake ports on the ESC, so you have to work both lines on at the same time.

I was inspired by Steven's syncron layout which had the ESC velcro'd on top of the motor-- decided to give it a try.

Discovered that the ESC's on-board BEC can't handle more than 3S, so now I need to install a UBEC... back to the soldering iron!!!

-Chief

[Unkle Chopper]

Just seen your build and have a few tips...

you can see my synchron here (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=10852&highlight=synchron)

I would reccomend getting the ESC over to the right hand side of the boat and as far aft as possible i actually mounted mine on balsa blocks that are expoxied to the floor allowing a strap to pass through and keeping water away should the boat get wet on the inside

the balance of the boat when running 4 cells in my opinion is pretty good however the motor mount on these sits slightly too far forward which means the COG is slightly restricted making the boat run a little to wet in flat conditions however when it is rough they absolutly scream

see some high speed video here (boat 7) is my synchron in action (http://ostendospreys.com/News/Videos/Videos.html)

I have tested various motor an prop combinations and now have a boat that is very fast and winning regulary on the water, to say i am pleased with the hull is an understatement they really are fantastic boats:buttrock:

I am following your build now and look forward to seeing a completed boat on the water :popcorn2:

[BHChieftain]

Just seen your build and have a few tips...

you can see my synchron here (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=10852&highlight=synchron)

I would reccomend getting the ESC over to the right hand side of the boat and as far aft as possible i actually mounted mine on balsa blocks that are expoxied to the floor allowing a strap to pass through and keeping water away should the boat get wet on the inside

the balance of the boat when running 4 cells in my opinion is pretty good however the motor mount on these sits slightly too far forward which means the COG is slightly restricted making the boat run a little to wet in flat conditions however when it is rough they absolutly scream

see some high speed video here (boat 7) is my synchron in action (http://ostendospreys.com/News/Videos/Videos.html)

I have tested various motor an prop combinations and now have a boat that is very fast and winning regulary on the water, to say i am pleased with the hull is an understatement they really are fantastic boats:buttrock:

I am following your build now and look forward to seeing a completed boat on the water :popcorn2:

Perfect timing on your post!

Today I put the boat in the bathtub with the batteries on both sides of the motor, and tested the flood chamber... would not flip over. My new config looks pretty much like yours... I moved the ESC to the right side, and put the right side battery up front in the nose, just left of center. With that weight distribution, she'll turn upright when capsized. I'll post a few more pictures later.

-Chief

[Unkle Chopper]

Perfect timing on your post!

I moved the ESC to the right side, and put the right side battery up front in the nose, just left of center.

-Chief

Hi,

I thought i would help you with battery palcement so have taken a couple of extra shots of my boat.

Here you can see exactly where i place a 4s1p pack if the weight is any further forward the boat will run too wet, this may not be a problem if you are not racing although it may dive a little in rough conditions.

I have a couple of other things, if i use a naviga legal pack (<560g) to race in mono 2 I add 25g of weight when I strap the battery in just to help the boat roll, if i use the pack shown (584g) it is not needed. however if it is really windy when racing add a furter 30g of lead and this helps roll that little bit quicker.

do you plan on adding vent holes to the flood chambe? if you do the boat will roll better. albeit it feels bad cutting holes in a new boat. if you dont at least consider a single hole at the front of the chamber to let the air out as it floods, you can see here i have them top and bottom and i fill the bit at the front with expoxy to make sure it is strong incase i get hit in a race.

[BHChieftain]

Hi Unkle Chopper,
I really appreciate the shots on your layout, thanks.

I'm running two 2S1P packs in serial, so I have a few more options on battery placement-- the first battery is up vertically against the flood chamber, the second is now up towards the nose cone on the left side floor. If I put them both vertically along the flood chamber, she lists a lot to the port side.

At this point I'm more interested in sport running, although I do plan to enter into some races, so I'd rather delay drilling more holes in the flood chamber-- right now there is one hole up towards the nose break the vacuum. She'll turn over, albiet fairly slowly. Would adding more holes increase the turning force to a point where I could put the battery that's currently in the nose back to the starboard side next to the motor (I woudn't think so, but it would balance the boat better).

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

I have a castle creations 10A UBEC coming in next week which I'll install to override the internal BEC since I'm running 4S. What voltage output should I be using on the UBEC? Servo is a Traxxas 2056 and the receiver is a Spektrum MR3000.

Thanks,
-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Chief,
We have the same CC UBEC we are not using if you want to borrow it to test on Saturday...
Bigwaveohs

USPS says it should show up today, so I plan to solder it up tonight. All systems go for the first test run on Saturday!

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Yesterday I did some leak testing on the boat in the bathtub. It is watertight except for the hatch-- no matter how well I tape it I get some leaking. I tested this by building a temporary "gasket" using narrow strips of double sided tape, then taped the hatch on top of that. This stopped the leaking.

Anybody have tips on building a hatch gasket? I was thinking about a bead of silicon sealant, but not sure if that would work well.

-Chief

[BakedMopar]

This is a very nice build. Good luck with it:thumbup:

[BHChieftain]

Day 8- Waterproofing

-For the water outlet, I found a rubber washer from a faucet repair kit. Used a rattail rasp to widen it and screwed it in place, then put the metal nut back on.

-Water leaked up the flexshaft until I greased it. That fixed it.

-As mentioned in an earlier post, everything else was watertight except where I taped down the hatch. I made a makeshift gasket from doublesided tape, and that worked well. Still thinking about a more permanent solution.

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 9- Installing UBEC, Batteries, and Receiver

-Luckily, last week I stumbled across a post that flagged the internal ESC BECs usually can't handle 4S... so, with much sorrow, I had to resolder the ESC battery-side wires with the UBEC wires. Sure enough, the bullets came off so I basically had to redo the whole thing (those blasted double 10g wires...).

-Put the boat in the tub with the planned battery config which was lipo1 mounted along the flood chamber wall, and lipo2 on the right side of the motor. Boat would not turn over when capsized, so I needed to reposition the batteries. Moved lipo2 up towards the nose, just left of center. I moved the ESC from the top of the motor to the right side of the motor, and just as well as I needed a place to secure the UBEC. Both the ESC and UBEC are secured with velcro on the floor-- Later I might add a mount to get them off the floor in case of a leak (advice from Unkle Chopper).

-Since I moved the battery into the nose, I needed to split the nose floatation into two pieces. The upper piece is secured by velcro. The battery install procedure is battery first, then loose floatation piece no. 1 to the right of the battery, then secured by flotation piece no. 2 which sits above the battery (with velcro) and locks the first piece in.

-Ran the Spektrum MR3000 receiver wires up under the lip of the hull. Had a hard time finding tape that would secure it-- settled on servo tape which worked nicely

-Held my breath and powered everything up--- life! I also remembered to enter calibration mode to set the right lipo cutoff for 4S (12v). As a bonus, the prop turns in the correct direction...

All ready for a test run tomorrow!

-Chief

[Unkle Chopper]

The build is looking good chief !, I will post some pics of my little mounts after race day tomorrow :buttrock: they are really simple made from balsa and laminated in epoxy

having seen the pics of you cells in place if you can get the cell that sits up front as far back and as close to the flood chamber as possible you might get close to her rolling pretty well with not too much adjustment, a good tip is to just try sticking some lead balance weights on the boat for temporary tests. most hobby stores have them with a adhesive backing available as they are used in touring car racing regularly to meet weight requirements, i play around sticking them inside and out to see how much encouragement the boat actually needs before permanently fixing in place with epoxy.

[j.m.]

Those wires could use a little shortening to tidy things up, but your build is perfect otherwise. That's a very clean hull with nice lines and 'American' style with 'Euro' design. Lovely!

Jon

[BHChieftain]

Day 10
Test run no. 1-- success!

All I can say is WOW! The boat is a rocket and stable.

Test run clip is below-- starts out a little slow as I adjust the trim and get used to the rudder input. Turns on a dime to the right (turn fin on that side). Left turns need to be at the right speed/input mix since there is no turn fin on that side due to the flood chamber-- I did one donut in the clip (kinda fun pushing the line on the left turns, and it is nice to know there is a flood chamber to bail you out).

Throttle picks up towards the end of the clip. She was bone dry at the end of the run. Lipos and ESC were cool, motor was warm to the touch but not hot (I didn't have a temp gauge).

http://www.youtube.com/user/BHChieftain#p/a/u/0/vRGOQbbNjAI


Next stop-- decals or paint, and probably a mount to get the ESC and UBEC off the floor.

-Chief

[tiqueman]

Very well done Chief. :thumbup:

[BHChieftain]

Day 11- Test run #2 and bad news...

I reported on Day 10 that the motor was warm-- the can itself was warm, but the rotor was very hot. Was advised that perhaps a bearing was at fault, or maybe the coupler was too close to the thrust bearing. I tried to move the coupler down while it was still in the boat, but it was very tight, so I decided to mess with that after the second test run.

Second test run was on a X440/3 prop, only did 3 minutes. Boat handled great, and nice speed. Brought her in to check the temps-- as before, the lipos and ESC were cool, the motor can was just warm, but again the rotor was hot, including the coupler. Decided to call it a day, and to take the motor out to pull down the coupler.

The coupler was locked into place, I could not remove it. Ended up trying to tap it off, and which point I pretty much ruined the motor... Even after ruining the bearings in the motor, I then tried to hammer the coupler off to save the thrust bearing (holding the coupler with pliers, and hitting the motor can), but it would not budge. So now I'm down a motor, a coupler, and a thrust bearing.

Given everything else in the boat was really cool, I suspect a bad bearing in the feigao.

I think I'll try a neu motor this time, and a different coupler design.

-Chief

[BakedMopar]

Before bangin on it you should of sprayed it with some penetrating oil. It probably heated up the shaft enough to where it expanded in the coupler. You could also try heating up the coupler. That kinda sucks. Sorry to hear especially when new bearings are less than $15.

[BHChieftain]

Before bangin on it you should of sprayed it with some penetrating oil. It probably heated up the shaft enough to where it expanded in the coupler. You could also try heating up the coupler. That kinda sucks. Sorry to hear especially when new bearings are less than $15.

Thanks for this tip! Just for kicks I took the destroyed motor and heated up the coupler over my gas burner for about 15 seconds and it came right off...

(this is why this is called the "syncron-NEWBIE" thread)

Hopefully I'll save somebody else from this mistake.

bye,
-Chief

[Rex R]

I like to give my motors a small drop of light oil on the bearings (new & old) before I start the season (about once a month after the season starts). quite likely the locktite 'glued' the coupler to the shaft.
I have been known to use a 'micro' torch (butane) to solder those blessed connectors...was a nice surpise to see how easy it was to solder 18ga w/ my 80w iron after doing 10ga, it went sooo fast :).
rex

[BHChieftain]

Here's the second test run at Kaiser Cove. Despite having only 1 turn fin for high speed right handers, it does turn to the left pretty well.

http://www.youtube.com/user/BHChieftain#p/a/u/1/rPzWiKcPDsU

-Chief

[tiqueman]

Looks great Chief! Sorry to hear about your mishap.

[BHChieftain]

Day 12

-Neu 1515 1.5Y (1500KV) motor arrived. Will will try an octura flex hex coupler with it. Wasn't sure if the flex drive cable was .130 or .150. I contacted Toysport, and they said the cable was .145. I plan to use the .150 coupler for it. If the cable is a tad too small I figure I can beef it up with some solder. Noticed there is hardly any front/back play with the rotor on the neu motor compared to the feigao...

-The neu motor drive shaft is a bit longer than the feigao, and there was too much space between the back of the coupler and the thrust bearing. Used a dremel tool cutting wheel to cut down the shaft-- all went well.

-With the new coupler, the flexdrive is about 1/8 inch too long, will cut it down tomorrow.

-Forgot to mention that a few days back I installed an antenna tube to get the lead of the 2.4ghz receiver out of the boat as high as possible for maximum range. Used another black faucet washer on the inside to waterproof it.

-Will try X637, X438, X440 props (X438 and X440 still on order). With the X637 there is about a 1/4" gap between the back of the prop and the prop nut. Need to figure out what's best to use to fill the space (ie, washers or a piece of brass tube).

-If all goes well we'll get a run in this Saturday to check out the new motor!

-Chief

[Steven Vaccaro]

The coupler should be fine. None of the .150 flex cable is really .150. The Octura stuff runs from about .145 to .148. Normally it falls about .147 or so. I also suggest soldering the end of the flex cable so it doesn't fry.

[Steven Vaccaro]

The coupler should be fine. None of the .150 flex cable is really .150. The Octura stuff runs from about .145 to .148. Normally it falls about .147 or so. I also suggest soldering the end of the flex cable so it doesn't fry.

[BHChieftain]

-I found a really small rubber grommet at the hardware store that fills the gap nicely.

-Just dodged another major problem--- my new neu motor has a larger diameter than the feigao, plus the cooling jacket is wider than the OSE cooling jacket used on the feigao. I was very worried the neu motor + jacket would not have enough ground clearance with the prexisting motor mount. Today I put the sleeve on the motor and installed it in the boat, and it just BARELY fits. I cannot even slide a business card between the bottom of the boat and the water jacket... but I can turn the jacket with the motor in place so I know there is some room... maybe 0.25mm or less... yikes, that was cutting it close!


-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 13- What a difference a prop makes

-Major modifications to the syncron. Added a neu 1515 1.5y 1500 KV motor, and changed to a flex hex .150 coupler. Needed to cut the neu shaft about 1/4 inch in order for the flex hex coupler to fit against the thrust bearing, and also needed to grind a flat spot for the coupler set screws.

-Even after cutting the neu rotor shaft, the flexdrive cable was still about 1/8 inch too long. Cut that down.

-The epoxy motor mount was not wide enough to accommodate the flex hex coupler-- used the dremel to widen the opening.

-The standard grub screws for the flex hex were too long-- found some smaller ones at the hardware store.

-Swapped out the hex nuts for the motor mount from M3 8mm to M3 10mm as the 8mm screws were a little too short.

-Did 3 test runs at Kaiser cove. The first prop was an X440. The boat hardly moved, massive cavitation. Changed to an X637, some improvement but still ran like a dog. For the 3rd run changed to the graupner 45 prop and it ran GREAT! It is amazing the difference in performance between various props. With the X440 and X637, even the sound of the boat was off. With the 45 prop, it was like a tuned instrument. After a 5 min run with the larger prop, EVERYTHING was cool-- lipos, ESC, motor casing, and also the motor rotor. The neu 1500KV really likes throwing a larger prop-- I'll try a graupner 48 next time, and also an X642. I really like the neu motor over the feigao-- runs nice and cool.

-Pics show the new motor and coupler, and the antenna mount.

-Video shows the performance difference between the 3 props.

http://www.youtube.com/user/BHChieftain#p/a/u/0/3WdC5Tqhues

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Day 14

Ran a larger Graupner 48mm prop, best run to date (even better than an X642 that I had on loan), and everything remained cool even after an 8+ minute run. GPS at 38 and change... need to get 5mph more out of her to save face against Chris and his stock SV... will try an even larger prop next time, not sure when torque roll will kick in.



-Chief

[j.m.]

I think the 1.6" pitch props will be the way to go... It seems like you have power to spare.

try an x648 and see if you can't run that SV down!!!

Jon

[BHChieftain]

I think the 1.6" pitch props will be the way to go... It seems like you have power to spare.

try an x648 and see if you can't run that SV down!!!

Jon

I'm not so sure about the 1.6... I ran the X642 and the Graupner 1.4 48mm, both have 2.64 total pitch but the boat ran much better on the Graupner. I'm gonna try a X448 and then a X450 next...

-Chief

[cpgise]

I think the 1.6" pitch props will be the way to go... It seems like you have power to spare.

try an x648 and see if you can't run that SV down!!!

Jon

:zip-up: LOL

[BHChieftain]

Ran an octura x448 and x450(!) prop this week. Everything remained cool even with the 450. Getting some chine walking with the 450, and on one run she nosedived under water and shot up about 3 feet into the air-- wished I had a video of that! The boat is faster with the 450 but no chine walking with the 448. I'll keep playing around with these two props, both are working out great. I hope to get some gps runs in in a few weeks.


Chief

[Rumdog]

go with 6s on that motor and a x445! you will FLY!!!!

[Jedi Master]

Hi, just saw this thread and thought I'd drop in a comment; Are you greasing the shaft at all??

I used to run a Toysport Triton with a Lehner 2240/7 on 6s and the rpm would reach 47,000rpm at max throttle. Joseph Toth asvised me to used the marine grade grease and this helped keep the shaft and coupler temps very low. It ran super smooth and would reach mid 60's on a regualr basis.

Love the build thread by the way!!

[BakedMopar]

You should try going up in pitch. You probably maxxed out the diameter for your hull. If the x648 pulls the rpms down too much you can back cut it a little at a time to lessen the load and bring your rpms back up.

Or you could go up in battery size with a smaller prop.

[BHChieftain]

Hi, just saw this thread and thought I'd drop in a comment; Are you greasing the shaft at all??

I used to run a Toysport Triton with a Lehner 2240/7 on 6s and the rpm would reach 47,000rpm at max throttle. Joseph Toth asvised me to used the marine grade grease and this helped keep the shaft and coupler temps very low. It ran super smooth and would reach mid 60's on a regualr basis.

Love the build thread by the way!!

Hi,
Yep, driveshaft gets a nice dose of marine grease every now and then. Also keeps the water out.

I'm trying to see how much I can get out of this boat on 4S. I'll explore the 6S options later,

Chief

[BHChieftain]

You should try going up in pitch. You probably maxxed out the diameter for your hull. If the x648 pulls the rpms down too much you can back cut it a little at a time to lessen the load and bring your rpms back up.

Or you could go up in battery size with a smaller prop.

I'd love to try these two props but I can't find 'em:

X646, and X648

HELP-- would anyone be willing to LOAN me either of these props for a few weeks? I will pay ALL SHIPPING.

Thanks!
Chief

[BakedMopar]

I'd love to try these two props but I can't find 'em:

X646, and X648

HELP-- would anyone be willing to LOAN me either of these props for a few weeks? I will pay ALL SHIPPING.

Thanks!
Chief

Steven carries them in raw form.

I don't know if you do your own props or not, but it's a really good thing to learn. Grab a balancer and a couple props and go at it. It's a great learning guide and most rewarding when you can manipulate your prop to your needs. It wont come overnight but after doing a few you'll start to get the concept.

I like what your doing on trying to get the most out of your setup first before moving on to higher cell counts. I run 4s in most everything myself.

Keep at it Cheif, your doing a great job!:beerchug:

Aloha,
George

[BHChieftain]

Day whatever, I've lost count....

I've decided to stick with decals vs. painting as I don't trust my painting skills. I have another all-white tenshock mono that I'll try to paint yellow at some point...

I wanted to put some custom decals on the boat, and was thinking about how to cut the shape accurately. I decided to tape a piece of wrapping tissue paper over the boat, and to use the edge of a pencil to "rub" the ridge pattern onto the tissue (would be easier to see if I used white paper, but I only had red). When I ran out of ridges to trace, I used a french curve to extrapolate the rest of the curve-- worked great.

Then I transferred the rubbing to a piece of white paper that I used as a template, then used that template to cut out the decal.

Wanted to go with white and black checks, but I only had yellow and black-- I plan to swap this out when I can find some white&black checks.

For the blue stripes, I used the decals that came with the syncron just for fun. I'll probably swap these out and fill in the entire deck with either blue or yellow, with the check pattern in the middle.

Anyway, wanted to share the tracing/french curve idea for folks that might want to do their own custom decals.

-Chief

[BHChieftain]

Big thanks to Bwells and Bigwaveohs for letting me test some props. Tested an x646, and x648. Both ran cool! I really like the x648, a little more wild, and hit 43-45mph (ran with my friend's SV who clocked 41mpg, and I barely overtook him...)

X646 is more stable. I think I'll get one of each!

Here's the run with the x648

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=BHChieftain#p/u/0/En5jgE8-C14


Chief

[cpgise]

The SV27's top speed for the day was 43.8MPH, but close enough. :laugh:

[BakedMopar]

Looks much better. Now enjoy that beauty!

[BHChieftain]

Closing the build thread!

Over the past few months I've been tuning the syncron, and I think I've got her figured out on my 4S setup.

Best props are x645 and X646 (x448 also works ok. x648 is fun, but get too much chine walking at top speed). My favorite prop is the x646-- I can run this full throttle, but can get a little loose at times which adds to the excitement. Note, I was never able to get anything to overheat using the neu 1515 1y motor/240A hydra ESC, even with x450 and X648 props (these just have too much diameter for the hull).

I've played around with battery placement-- one is along the flood chamber wall centered along the motor, the other is on the left-floor panel, pretty far up the nose. I move the nose battery back and forth until I hit the optimal COG, which seems to be right at the front of the motor. If I bring the COG any closer to the transom, I'll get some porpoising which will eventually lead to a sub...

Here's some final video of this setup, with a couple of fun wipeouts highlighting the value of the flood chamber...:tongue_smilie:

I did not GPS the boat, but raced with some that did, I estimate she's running in the mid 40's.

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=BHChieftain#p/u/0/dSbYLdw2Ydw

Chief

[BHChieftain]

Just an update--

Just could not break into 50MPH on 4S with the 1500KV neu-- I was limited by prop diameter. I swapped out the neu 1.5Y 1500 to a neu 1y 2200KV and dropped the prop down to X640. Very happy with this setup-- breaking 50mph without a sweat, and the hull handling is great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpkip0w3p5M


Chief

[BHChieftain]

Another update-- X640 was making my connectors hot, dropped to a X637. Later, I dinged that prop so had to use a spare X440 which has less pitch than the X637, but lo and behold, I picked up some speed and the boat runs cooler. I figure the X637 wasn't letting the motor get to full RPM. I'm running mid 50's on this one.

Here she is on the X637 however racing a Ms. Geico (which was on 5S1P)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0HhRhUGaVQ


Chief

[BHChieftain]

Yet another update-- new favorite prop is an Octura X442. Fastest prop to date, everything running cool, no chine walking.
Chief

[cpgise]

I'll have to let you run my favorite prop! A detounged x442.

[Fast One]

You should try a X440/3, that was my race set up and it flew, all temps are low and it gives you a bit more stability.