Melting Batt connectors

[RiverRat]

After finally getting my motor and esc to run really cool I was able to run fullblast for about 7 mins. Removed the hatch and saw the connectors totally melted together. Since I was useing the batteries from the kids crap boats I had some deans to tamara(spelling?) adapters. The deans were fine but the white ones were history. The batts were so hot I was afraid it would melt the boat.
Questions
Would making a batt cooler help?
Would making a batt cooler lengthen run time?
Does anyone have a need for batt coolers?
Happy trails

[kck741]

I would get some deans plugs and just solder them to the batteries Tamiya Is way old skool get rid of them WAY to much resistance


I dont know about the batt. coolers I have been thinking about fabbing up one to try but i stopped myself!you would have to run more water lines leading to lease cooling because you want the water to pass through the boat as fast as possible(you dont want that water slowly going around the motor and esc It would be getting backed up by the water going through the batteries.

If you had a dedicated line to batteries you would add a seperate water pickup on the boat leading to more drag on the hull.

I just dont think its worth it.

Thats my $o.o2

[RiverRat]

The connectors are history and I wont do that again. Was really looking for answers about the batt temps and performance.

[mr.mauian]

you may not have had the batts full charged or did you run them fresh off the charger ? I have found that only certain batts can go from charger to boat right after charge and survive but in most cases you might get a nice explosion and a whole in your boat. Batts should cool before running them. You might want to prop down, your electronics should be not more than 150 degrees temp. all of it. to big of a prop can overheat everything due to more amp draw.

[Fluid]

The problem the OP saw was due to running for too long a period. If the motor and ESC were not too hot, then the heat buildup in the cells is the problem. Battery coolers will do little to help, if the cells get over 160-170F they will be permanently damaged. Just because the cells will last for 7 minutes does not mean it is a good idea to run them that long.

To increase run time you will need to slow down - it is always a compromise between run time and speed. Either go to a smaller prop or milder motor, or fewer cells with the current setup. There is no free lunch here.

BTW, for top performance, start your NiMH cells at 120F right off the charger. Cold cells have much less power, by the time they warm up the voltage potential has droped off. You cannot run for more than 2-3 minutes or so depending on your setup, but you will be faster.


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[RiverRat]

Ok Great, Thanks.
The setup just so no one else goes there.
Stock motor, stock esc, prop neutral w/ oct 642, rudder full under, venom 4600 flat pack 6cell full cycled twice installed warm, stupid deans-tamiya adapters.

How many mins is the average race? The only competition I have are ducks.

[Fluid]

Most races last from one to two minutes dep-ending on the course and the boats. Offshore races can run to 4 or 6 minutes, but the boats are de-tuned a bit to run that long. They are still pretty fast!


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