Scotts E-thundercat build

[forescott]

Hi all, I have been thinking about doing brushless proboat thundercat build for a while. I like the look of the hull, and I wanted a hull big enough to possibly hit 50mph. Also this is my first build, so I wanted someyhing relatively easy as the t-cat already has useable hardware. So I finally got enough money together to get the parts I need. Found a used boat from hobb-e-mart. Bought a new castle 1515 1Y. OSE water jacket. Turnigy 180 on the way, and a few other parts. I am kinda stuck as to whether I should leave the wood stringers and use a "between the rails" motor mount, or remove most of the wood stringers and moun the motor directly to the bottom of the hull. I actually bought both mounts. But the one pictured seems kinda small and am afraid it is a little to weak to handle the torque of the castle motor. Any thoughts or ideas??:confused2:

[forescott]

I have also had a little time to work on sealing up the holes on the hatch. I found some thin plastic at home depot and cut some pieces to fit over the two intake holes, the two small outlet holes, as well as the radio antenna hole on the top of the hatch. I used epoxy made for plastic to bond the pieces to the hatch from underneath, and also reinforced the tabs that hold the front part of the hatch in place. The hatch is thin plastic and pretty flimsy. I don't know how it will hold up in a crash, but I think i'm gonna just tape it up as best as I can for now.

[Steven Vaccaro]

The mount is plenty strong for the motor. But the hull bottom may not be thick enough for it. Rail mounts do a good job at distributing the weight of the heavy motors over a larger area.

[lomdel]

Good luck with the build! :popcorn2: I did a conversion a while ago as well : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=5727 . A few suggestions based on what you already did :

Closing up all the hatch holes will increase drag. The air will now have to move OVER and not straight THROUGH the canopy. I cut a piece of perspex/lexan as a sub-hatch and tape that down. Nice and clean seal all around. You'll have to remove the two plastic clips and CA glue down some magnets or something to hold the front down. I then cut some extra holes in the back of the canopy to optimize air flow through the canopy.

Using stringer mounted motor-mount will stabilize the hull structure and be more rigid than a bottom mount one. It will also leave the option open to re-convert it back to Nitro should you ever be so desperate... :laugh: Where did you "buy" a stringer mount that would fit between the TC31's stringers? I had to design and CNC machine one...

Upgrade the stock rudder servo!

What props and Lipos are you going to start with?

[lomdel]

You can also remove the radio box now that the inside of the entire hull is sealed. Just remount the plywood servo plate to hold the servo, Rx and Rx pack.

[forescott]

Well, I decided to remove the wood stringers from the hull. No going back now! And bought a piece of 4-ply hobby grade plywood that I was thinking of epoxying to the hull for strength. The only problem is the 3/16 plywood raises the motor and mount, causing me to have to move the motor forward in order to line up the flex cable. My question is, is it o.k. to have 1-1/4 inch of exposed flex cable that is not supported by a stuffing tube?? You will notice a rectangular cut-out in the plywood. I did that so the motor mount would sit flush on the plywood base.(The pictured motor mount is not tall enough for the castle motor and cooling can. I have a couple of other mounts on the way which hopefully will work better.:thumbup: The last picture shows how much better the motor lines up with the flex cable when seated on the hull without the base. Which brings me to my next question, Can I apply a few layers of fiberglass cloth and resin to strengthen the hull without as much buildup as a piece of plywood. And will it be strong enough??:help:

[forescott]

Good luck with the build! :popcorn2: I did a conversion a while ago as well : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=5727 . A few suggestions based on what you already did :

Closing up all the hatch holes will increase drag. The air will now have to move OVER and not straight THROUGH the canopy. I cut a piece of perspex/lexan as a sub-hatch and tape that down. Nice and clean seal all around. You'll have to remove the two plastic clips and CA glue down some magnets or something to hold the front down. I then cut some extra holes in the back of the canopy to optimize air flow through the canopy.

Using stringer mounted motor-mount will stabilize the hull structure and be more rigid than a bottom mount one. It will also leave the option open to re-convert it back to Nitro should you ever be so desperate... :laugh: Where did you "buy" a stringer mount that would fit between the TC31's stringers? I had to design and CNC machine one...

Upgrade the stock rudder servo!

What props and Lipos are you going to start with?

I have read your thread several times. southriverrcboats.com is where I ordered a 4-inch bween the rails mount. I was planning to somehow shim each side 1/4 inch to accomodate the 4 1/2 inch spacing on the TC. Is the stock servo too weak?? I was thinking of getting a traxxas waterproof servo.(not sure what the torque is though) Thanks for your input!!:thumbup1:

[Steven Vaccaro]

I would suggest extending the stuffing tube. You will need a piece of the same size brass as the stuffing tube and a small piece of the next size up. Its easy, cut out some of the glue around the stuffing tube. Cut the smaller piece about 1" to get it closer to the coupler. then slide over a 1/2" piece of the larger stuff. Let a 1/4" ride on the old and new stuffing tube. It acts as the brace.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I would suggest extending the stuffing tube. You will need a piece of the same size brass as the stuffing tube and a small piece of the next size up. Its easy, cut out some of the glue around the stuffing tube. Cut the smaller piece about 1" to get it closer to the coupler. then slide over a 1/2" piece of the larger stuff. Let a 1/4" ride on the old and new stuffing tube. It acts as the brace.

[forescott]

I got my new motor mount today from phil @ vac-u-boat. I had to do a little trimming @ the back to make room for the cooling can, but I like the mount! I decided to use the 3/16 plywood to strengthen the hull. Like my redneck clamp? A piece of 4x6 and 40lbs. of paving stones! I also ordered a few decals. Not sure if I want to use the punisher ones or the old school thundercat cartoon logo. :bounce:

[Eodman]

Here's my Thunder Cat -----

[lomdel]

I got my new motor mount today from phil @ vac-u-boat. I had to do a little trimming @ the back to make room for the cooling can, but I like the mount! I decided to use the 3/16 plywood to strengthen the hull. Like my redneck clamp? A piece of 4x6 and 40lbs. of paving stones! I also ordered a few decals. Not sure if I want to use the punisher ones or the old school thundercat cartoon logo. :bounce:

Glad to see you got rid of the radio box! Will this motor and -mount setup allow you to use a sub-hatch or are you going to stick with the waterproofed main canopy?

[forescott]

Glad to see you got rid of the radio box! Will this motor and -mount setup allow you to use a sub-hatch or are you going to stick with the waterproofed main canopy?

I,m gonna give it a try with the sealed canopy. I also bought a traxxas high torque waterproof servo to replace the stock one, and have a 2.4ghz radio on the way.

[forescott]

Finially got a chance to work on the thundercat today. Was able to extend the stuffing tube 1 1/2" with a larger piece of brass tubing to act as a sleeve over the original tube and the extension.(thanks steven!) Got a new longer teflon liner and cut down the 18" flex shaft to fit. Also added some fiberglass cloth and epoxy to wrap around the stuffing tube for extra support. It feels pretty solid now. Just waiting for my turnigy 180 to get here so I can lay out the electronics! :banana:

[dddmx3]

isnt 18" too long

and is the teflon line the white stuff inside the stuffing tube?

[forescott]

isnt 18" too long

and is the teflon line the white stuff inside the stuffing tube?
Yes, 18" is too long. I cut about 6-inches off. The stock flex shaft,however was too short because i had to move the motor mount towards the front of the boat in order to line up the flex shaft/motor coupler. So I needed a longer shaft and also a longer piece of teflon tubing(the white stuff)

[dddmx3]

ok thanks.
lol im doing the same conversion too!
cant wait for the parts to come

im doing the same thing you're doing so what size teflon tubing do i need?

[forescott]

ok thanks.
lol im doing the same conversion too!
cant wait for the parts to come

im doing the same thing you're doing so what size teflon tubing do i need?
I'm still waiting for parts too. I'll be watching your thread!:banana:

[dddmx3]

hahah ok(:
lol im thinking ill hit about 50mph

[forescott]

Thats my goal as well!

[dddmx3]

so what size teflon tubing did u get?

[forescott]

Tubing for 3/16" flex cable or .187 from OSE

[dddmx3]

oh i thought it would be a different size but ok
thanks!

[dddmx3]

where did you get the actual teflon

[forescott]

Offshore Electrics

[dddmx3]

hmm i cant find it
not the tube..

[forescott]

click on "drive hardware" Then "flex cables" then go to the very bottom of the page.

[dddmx3]

ohh thanks.

[forescott]

Finally received the rest of my parts from Hobbyking this week. Turnigy 180 and some EC-5 connectors. I made a revised servo tray to accomodate the esc and receiver. Covered it, and my plywood hull re-inforcement with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane for waterproofing. Also swapped out all of the deans connectors on my batteries for EC-5 connectors. Made a parallel adapter from ec-5 connectors, deans 12 ga. wet noodle wire, and castle 6.5mm bullets. I have my props set up in order. CF-40 first, then x642, then m445, then m545(thanks for the reccomendations Propperchopper) Gonna have some more time to work on it today and I will post some more pics later. :beerchug:

[forescott]

Got most everything put together today. Shortened motor wires, installed waterproof servo and steering linkage, loctite on everything, motor/esc /radio all work properly. Just need a little more silicone tubing for cooling, and need to adjust my batteries for center of gravity. Just about ready for a test run and am a little nervous.:Praying:

[dddmx3]

im pretty sure you got the wiring wrong, its...
i mean if you want volts not amps.. (wiring in series..)

http://i43.tinypic.com/2wno5g0.jpg

Source; http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=lipo_wiring.html

[forescott]

im pretty sure you got the wiring wrong, its...
i mean if you want volts not amps.. (wiring in series..)

http://i43.tinypic.com/2wno5g0.jpg

Source; http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=lipo_wiring.html

Your diagram is for running 2-lipos in series. I am running 2-4s 3600mah lipos in paralell. Which is 14.8volts and 7200mah.:bounce:

[dddmx3]

oh ok

[forescott]

Just made a couple of battery trays out of 3/16 plywood and epoxied them to the hull. Had to scratch the "velcro batteries to hull" idea. Steps in hull make it almost impossible to secure the batteries, and had trouble getting the velcro to stick. I made some marks on the trays so I can play with the c.o.g. Just waiting for some silicon tubing from ose, and a couple of octura props! I,m almost there! :banana:

[forescott]

Almost done with my first build. Found my battery positioning at 30% from the transom. Unfortunately 30% c.o.g. puts the batteries as far back towards the transom as they can go. Hopefully it runs well there, otherwise I will have to remove a little more of the stock stringers and move the trays back further. Set my strut depth @ even with the hull bottom to start. I have a cf 40 prop I was going to start with but I also have a x642, grim 42x55, and a prather 220. Still wondering what order to try out these props and is the cf40 too small to even bother with? Just waiting to replace the blue skinny water lines with o.s.e. large silicone tubing, and an m445 & m545 from o.s.e. to arrive as well and I will put her in the water! :thumbup1:

[crabstick]

looking good! nice Tidy build

[dddmx3]

is that a temp gauge or speed?
whats the model? I might get one too(:

ps what kind of truck is that? take a pic(:

[ozzie-crawl]

Almost done with my first build. Found my battery positioning at 30% from the transom. Unfortunately 30% c.o.g. puts the batteries as far back towards the transom as they can go. Hopefully it runs well there, otherwise I will have to remove a little more of the stock stringers and move the trays back further. Set my strut depth @ even with the hull bottom to start. I have a cf 40 prop I was going to start with but I also have a x642, grim 42x55, and a prather 220. Still wondering what order to try out these props and is the cf40 too small to even bother with? Just waiting to replace the blue skinny water lines with o.s.e. large silicone tubing, and an m445 & m545 from o.s.e. to arrive as well and I will put her in the water! :thumbup1:

i would set your strut bottom about 6-8mm up from sponson bottom
use a block of wood etc sit under it to get correct height

[forescott]

is that a temp gauge or speed?
whats the model? I might get one too(:

ps what kind of truck is that? take a pic(:

That is a garmin forerunner gps. I like it because of its size. Small and light! Under 100 bucks on ebay. The truck is the savage flux. Awesome truck. It has the same motor that I put in the tc31, and it runs on 6s lipo.

[forescott]

i would set your strut bottom about 6-8mm up from sponson bottom
use a block of wood etc sit under it to get correct height

Really? I thought you were supposed to start with the strut flush with the bottom of the hull. I think I read that in a couple of other posts. :confused2:

[ozzie-crawl]

have a read of this http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=12627

[forescott]

have a read of this http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=12627

Wow! Thanks for the link! I stand corrected. I'll give it a shot. :thumbup1:

[ozzie-crawl]

when i was setting up my mean machine i was also under they impression that you start with the strut bottom flush with sponson bottom and a few guys were saying centre of prop 3/16 up.
i tried this but could not get it to run very well (prop walk,running wet)
i shot a PM to fluid who told be to stick a block of wood etc 8mm thick under the strut with 1-2 deg of pos prop, sorted it straight away.
with a little fine tuning from there it now runs extremely well
of course different hulls will need different setups but i think its a good place to start, if prop is to low it puts more load on the motor/esc as well

[Rumdog]

Yep, my Sprintcat is setup with the strut at 1/2" above the sponsons.

[Make-a-Wake]

Very nice build!

[forescott]

O.K., water tested in the tub last night and there is a water coming in from under one of my battery trays that I epoxied in only hours before. :doh: Soo, I had to dremel out the epoxy and remove the trays today in order to acess the leak. Turns out there was a teenie hole in the sponson from one of the areas where I removed the factory stringers. So I used some plastic epoxy to patch up the hole from the inside. Since the trays are already out, I guess nows the time to remove the rest of the wood stringers that were stopping me from moving the battery trays further back where they should be. I'll have to cut about 3/4 of an inch from the ends of the trays to remove the old epoxy and rough areas where I dremeled them loose. I'm gonna bathtub test it again tonight before re-epoxying the trays back in place. The other problem I am having is getting the stuffing tube to bend upward in order to set the strut higher. I tried to carefully bend the tube up, and I got it to bend just a little,but not enough. I pushed it upwards until it touched the bottom of the hull but it still springs back down. I'm afraid if I push it too much its gonna crack the hull. Anyone got any ideas?? :help:

[Rumdog]

how much does it need to move? Just enough to line up with the strut where it is in the pic?

[m4a1usr]

The other problem I am having is getting the stuffing tube to bend upward in order to set the strut higher. I tried to carefully bend the tube up, and I got it to bend just a little,but not enough. I pushed it upwards until it touched the bottom of the hull but it still springs back down. I'm afraid if I push it too much its gonna crack the hull. Anyone got any ideas?? :help:

Its set that way from the factory. My strut ended up about an 1/8" of an inch above the bottom of the sponsons. I dont know where yours will end up being set at but I am happy with mine. You could add some heat to the stuffing tube and remove the anealing so that it bends easier. Most likely it will end up overheating the surrounding FG/glassing that seals the hull so plan accordingly. Just dont burn the glazzing around the bottom and you should be able to add some room for adjustment.

John

[forescott]

how much does it need to move? Just enough to line up with the strut where it is in the pic?

Actually the picture shows the strut approx. 2mm up from bot. of hull. I am assuming that I will probably need to raise it more. Ive seen some struts where the stuffing tube looks as though it is attached somehow to the strut. If I can somehow connect the two then my problem is solved. I am a little leary about heating up the stuffing tube without damaging the hull and paint.

[forescott]

Its set that way from the factory. My strut ended up about an 1/8" of an inch above the bottom of the sponsons. I dont know where yours will end up being set at but I am happy with mine. You could add some heat to the stuffing tube and remove the anealing so that it bends easier. Most likely it will end up overheating the surrounding FG/glassing that seals the hull so plan accordingly. Just dont burn the glazzing around the bottom and you should be able to add some room for adjustment.

John

Is your TC an FE boat or nitro? Curious as to what you've got, and your setup.

[Rumdog]

Speedmaster struts allow the stuffing tube to be slid into the nose of the strut. Makes it really solid.

[forescott]

Speedmaster struts allow the stuffing tube to be slid into the nose of the strut. Makes it really solid.

Do you know if the flared out end is just the copper tube itself or a seperate piece attached to the tube?

[forescott]

I cant tell on mine because it is painted over.

[CornelP]

Try to insert a piece of wood between the tube and the hull, just where the tube exits... then bend it, this will give you leverage.

[forescott]

I think I figured out how to fix the problem. I drilled out about 1/2" into the strut bushing with a 7/32" bit, then slid a 1 1/2" piece of 7/32" brass tube into the strut. Then slid a 1 1/2" piece of 1/4" tube over the 7/32"piece and slid the assembly into the stock stuffing tube, allowing me to push the strut and tube up without binding the flex cable. The strut pushed up at its max is only about 3mm above the sponsons so if I need to move the strut up more, i will have to open up the adjusting holes in the strut to allow more movement. Also got my c.o.g set at 29% with my gps in the front. I think I'm ready for a test run! :thumbup1:

[Rumdog]

Sweet! Let her rip!!!

[m4a1usr]

Is your TC an FE boat or nitro? Curious as to what you've got, and your setup.

Mine is a nitro conversion. I was one of the first guys to convert to FE 3 years ago. Mine started with a Feigao 540xl can, then a KB45, then changed over to a Neu 1521. The hull is heavy when you compare it to others in its size and class. I had a MM that ran great on a 540xl can. Not this tank.

I run 6S with a OEMRC Sentilon 100 amp speedo (I think they call them Turnigy now) its the 2 to 12 lipo version. Prop is a good ole prather 225. With just a little "magic". Cupping at the tip/backedge. But razor sharp and the blades thinned.

I got rid of the stock strut and upgraded to a speedmaster and the rudder is wider and thinner. I left all the wood inside with the exception of the piece holding in the fuel tank. Nose had non expanding spray in foam installed. My motor mount is a bastardized home brew. When I started the project there were no "Custom" motor mounts available. Now you can have anything made you want. I have one already to drop in. Just too many other projects and this one does work.

John

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af218/m4a1usr/DSCN2036.jpg


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af218/m4a1usr/DSCN2025.jpg

[forescott]

Ran the tc31 this weekend with the cf40 on 4s @ 36mph. Got a ton of water inside from the stuffing tube. Took it home, added a piece of silicon tubing @ the stuffing tube/flex shaft. Put on my p220 and got 41.5mph before the boat hooked real hard in a turn and rolled. Luckily it landed right side up and still would run, but the rudder was stuck and the boat would only make left hand circles. Had to wait 40 minutes til it drifted ashore and found the servo arm stripped from the servo and was stuck. (I dont think the servo arm fits quite right on the servo) I've heard stories about the stock rudder design and its tendency to hook in the turns. I have a speedmaster rudder on the way from ose and I'll find a replacement servo arm that fits well. No temps on the p220 cause it took 40 minutes to get it out of the water. I'm gonna wait til I receive my m445 and m545 from eggneg before running it again. Also modified the strut to be able to move it upward another 1/4" from bottom of sponsons. I think this is a neccessary mod especially when I start running the 45mm props.

[forescott]

I also have been browsing the nitro TC threads over at RCU and a lot of guys running bigger nitro motors in their TC's are actually forcing the strut down below the sponsons and giving the strut posotive angle. Does this sound right. Maybe having something to do with the gas tank mounted in front of the motor/compensating for the forward center of gravity??

[dddmx3]

Im going to use the stadard servo for first couple runs :/
hope everything goes well...

[m4a1usr]

I also have been browsing the nitro TC threads over at RCU and a lot of guys running bigger nitro motors in their TC's are actually forcing the strut down below the sponsons and giving the strut posotive angle. Does this sound right. Maybe having something to do with the gas tank mounted in front of the motor/compensating for the forward center of gravity??

I have heard that as well. Its one of the reasons I never bothered to modify the flex tube to allow for the strut to come up further. I would think that with the strut below the sponsons it would make the hull run nose heavy(wet) even if the COB was set in a normal rearward location. I'm going to stick with mine up an 1/8" for the time being. But my boat does have power to spare.

John

[peells]

I would have had to stuff twins in that rig just cause it would really make that kitty purrrrrrr

[forescott]

I received my new rudder assembly from ose last week and had to order a longer linkage to make it work. Also got my m445 & m545 from eggneg today. (Very nice!!)
So I'm gonna run it again tomorrow and get some temperature and gps readings on the 445. :thumbup1:
24028

24029

24030

24031

[lomdel]

Lookin' good!! Now get her wet!

[forescott]

O.K. Ran it today after work and got 47.6mph on my garmin gps. Octura m445, strut is approx. 3/8" above sponsons and c.o.g. is 29%. Motor was 87 degrees. Still getting water in through the stuffing tube. I have a piece of fuel tubing over the tube/flex shaft that I thought was snug, but maybe not snug enough. I'm gonna tighten up the zip tie a little, and try the m545 tomorrow. :banana:

[peells]

You have a short stuffing tube don't you? I think if you use tubing over the stuffing tube and the flex the tubing will melt to the flex shaft, I did that once and it actually made my boat slower, you might consider a auto bailer.

[forescott]

[QUOTE=peells;171659]You have a short stuffing tube don't you? I think if you use tubing over the stuffing tube and the flex the tubing will melt to the flex shaft, I did that once and it actually made my boat slower, you might consider a auto bailer.[/QUOTEI
I really need to keep the water out. Not so much worried about the amount of water in the hull at the end of my runs, but that it gets flung all over the batteries and speed control by the motor collet. :doh:

[forescott]

Ran it again today with the same setup and m545. Got 49mph on gps. It seems to still be running a little wet. Not sure if I should give it a little posotive trim on the strut or try to move the batteries back more.:confused2:

[m4a1usr]

I really need to keep the water out.

One of the old tricks is to put a sponge wedged right under the end of the stuffing tube. You can trim it to fit or even put a series of them if the water entry is bad.

John

[ozzie-crawl]

Ran it again today with the same setup and m545. Got 49mph on gps. It seems to still be running a little wet. Not sure if I should give it a little posotive trim on the strut or try to move the batteries back more.:confused2:

i would try about 1 deg positive on the strut, i know different hulls need different setup but i run a bit of positive on my cat gives it that nice nose up attitude

[forescott]

Still working on the water issues, but got 50.8 mph on gps today! Goal reached!! Oh yeah, motor was 84 degrees.:cool2: Time for a video.

[forescott]

Been trying to fix the water coming in from the stuffing tube and found out that a 7/32" brass tube will slide into my teflon tubing for my huey 3/16" flex cable. (with a little effort and some grease of course) The 7/32" brass tube makes the teflon swell up a little and the 3/16" flex shaft fits real snug in the 7/32" brass tube. So I shoved the whole enchilada into the stock stuffing tube with a lot of grim racer grease(sticky stuff!) I am gonna run the boat again tomorrow with a little posotive strut angle, and hopefully no more leaky, leaky!! Wish me luck!!

[forescott]

Well, I wasnt able to tell if any water came up from the stuffing tube today because I rolled the tc and it immediately filled with water and began to sink. :doh: I had to swim for it! It would have been fine but the flimsy plastic canopy split longways down the center. Amazingly enough I think all components survived(except my cell phone that was in my pocket) :doh: I blew everything out with compressed air and took the end cap off of the castle motor, removed the innards and blew it out as well. I wonder if I could re-inforce a new canopy with some type of fiber cloth and resin to give it some strength? My gps survived and still recorded the run with 51.8mph top speed. I think the strut had too much posotive angle. It was running a little too free for my taste. New canopy on the way, and Ill get it put back together.

[m4a1usr]

What a bummer! The hatch is rather large and flimsy. When you get the new one you can attach a layer of cloth. I did the cover to my Maus and they are made similar. Have you filled the nose with foam? There is a wooden bulkhead that isolates the forward part of the hull but the holes at the bottom allow you to fill it with spray foam. Just use the non expanding and fill it in stages. And with the hull leaning up against something so that it remains vertical thru out the drying process.

Did you hit something to flip it? Running to loose in a turn? Your speeds are right where I am at now. Plenty enough fast for me. At least for now.

John

[forescott]

What a bummer! The hatch is rather large and flimsy. When you get the new one you can attach a layer of cloth. I did the cover to my Maus and they are made similar. Have you filled the nose with foam? There is a wooden bulkhead that isolates the forward part of the hull but the holes at the bottom allow you to fill it with spray foam. Just use the non expanding and fill it in stages. And with the hull leaning up against something so that it remains vertical thru out the drying process.

Did you hit something to flip it? Running to loose in a turn? Your speeds are right where I am at now. Plenty enough fast for me. At least for now.

John

Too loose in a turn i think. I',m still getting used to the handling characteristics of this hull. There is still plenty of room to"prop-up" but I think 50mph is a good speed for this hull and I'm just gonna leave it alone. The only reason why I have'nt added any foam is because I don't want to throw off the c.o.g. My batteries are already pretty far back. When it went under it just turned nose-up and the trapped air in the bow kept it afloat. Do you think sealing up the holes in the bulkhead and maybe adding some more epoxy around the perimeter of the bulkhead would be sufficient to create a sealed cavity of air to keep it afloat??

[forescott]

Just installed a double under-hull water pick-up. I dont care too much for the rudder pick-up, plus now I can run seperate cooling lines to the motor and esc. :thumbup:

[forescott]

Quick video update!

6aUKw8_W3nQ

[dddmx3]

Hah I sold mine a while ago for 600 on ebay!

[forescott]

Hah I sold mine a while ago for 600 on ebay!

Yah, I saw it there. You didnt have it long. Why did you sell it so quickly?

[blackcat26]

These hulls might be slightly slower than the HOTR but they sure are stable. Dad's boat has never fliped skipped or otherwise acted up. It's the only boat that we both have run several times and never turned over once. I'd love to twin it.

[forescott]

These hulls might be slightly slower than the HOTR but they sure are stable. Dad's boat has never fliped skipped or otherwise acted up. It's the only boat that we both have run several times and never turned over once. I'd love to twin it.

Yup, I've seen you're youtube vid. castle 1520 on 6s was my first thoughts with this build. But went the slightly more economical route.Plenty of room in the hull for a twin setup. still thinking of propping up to an m645. I'd like to get it into the mid-50's. The castle motor just runs sooo cool.

[dddmx3]

I never went out to the lake, and Plus I earned some cash(: $$

Im going to build a deltaforce 29 righ now its in painting!