Aeromarine Conquest FE Open Cat 10S Build

[RaceMechaniX]

Guys,

Thought I would share one of current builds, a AM Conquest for open class in my district. I had started collecting all the power components for a open 10S rigger which I am designing, but the have too many design projects to get the rigger finished quickly so I decided to put the same power system into a cat. I will still finish the design and build of the rigger when time allows and then switch over the power system, but in the meantime here is the cat build:

To start I ordered an Aeromarine Conquest in normal lay-up thickness with some carbon strengthening. Remember this is going to be a race boat and will be hit often in my district so no light lay-ups here.

The power system includes a Neu 2215 1.5Y and a Schulze 40.160wk or a Hydra 240HV. I plan on using 10S1P Neu Energy 6500 XP 25C batteries for sprint races and a 8S2P FP 4500 30C (9000mAh total) for offshore. I'll have to see how much drain the batteries take and adjust accordingly. Here are some pics of the power system.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_133614.jpg

Prior to purchasing the Schulze I had thought about using a 110HV. I ended up maching some aluminum cooling plates and used some thermal grease and thick shrink tubing over everything to hold it all together. Although I will not use this esc in this build I thought I would show pics in case anyone was interested.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_187809.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_132721.jpg

For the batteries, I ended up making a mold to lay-up some composite battery trays which tuck into the sponsons. I plan on lining the trays with some thin silicon foam rubber and holding the batts in with velcro straps. The trays measure 2" wide on the inside, 1" tall on the sides and are 12" long. They are almost long enough to hold two packs ened to end. They stick out a little either side, but no big deal. The trays are laid up using a 4oz layer of fiberglass on the inside followed by two layers of 12.5 oz carbon/kevlar weave and another 4 oz layer of fiberglass on the outside. It was a simple wet lay-up using teflon release ply and lots of clamps/weights to squeeze out the excess epoxy. I do have vaccum bagging equipment, but it was not worth the effort for these non-structural parts. The mold was a piece of delrin with the corners radiused, the delrin as covered with thin teflon film as a release agent. After curing the excess was trimmed off althouth I still have to finish trim them. Pics:
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_203796.jpg
Trays with battery packs fitted.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_307668.jpg


Cont'd

[RaceMechaniX]

I worked with Peter Zicha to design a pair of lightweight mounts to suit the 22 series of Neu motors on 5" rails with allowance for cooling jackets and good clearance on the output side to tuck the motor low down as possible in the hull. Peter cranked out some beautiful mounts which can be ordered from him if interested. Pics:
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_97942.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_153252.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_39312.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_238345.jpg

Pic of the motor mocked up the Conquest. I will try and keep the the motor as far forward as possible to keep the bend in the driveline as minimal as possible.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_215842.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_62830.jpg

cont'd

[RaceMechaniX]

To start I applied some masking tape to the transom and marked the centerline of the hull. I marked a veritical line 3/16" to the right of the CL for the strut. I mocked up the strut using a plain rond bottom strut. I will use a skegged strut when the boat is ready to run. I used 1-2-3 bocks on a flat building surface to ensure the strut was perpendicular to the ride pads. The rudder bracket was mounted in similar fashion using the 1-2-3 blocks such that the blade is in inline with the right stringer.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_136914.jpg

Another view of the strut and rudder. I did mill out a pocket in the strut to lighten it a bit and it looks better.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_149930.jpg

I will be using a HiTech Digital servo for the rudder mounted to a plywood plate and glassed directly onto the floor. For heavy, fast boats I prefer to overdo the steering servo and always try to use a straight pushrod, i.e. no bends or kinks. I will have to raise the servo off the floor by a 1/2" to allow a straight shot to the rudder. Pic of the servo in the general location:
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_204062.jpg

Here are a couple of pics of of the rough layout.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_14622.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_42498.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_47435.jpg

Next steps will be to bend a mock stuffing tube to calculate the angle the motor needs to be before mounting the motor or cutting the hole in the floor.

I also need to decide how to best mount the Schulze 40.160. I am thinking either in the middle of the tub as shown, but it has long motor leads which are not desirable or to the side of the frame rail near the front bulkhead which does not look great.

Stay tuned.

Tyler

[RaceMechaniX]

Got a little work done tonight. Motor is mounted and starting working on the rudder servo mount.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_60219.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266218186/med_gallery_4990_855_117952.jpg


By the way all pics are available in higher def on IW here: http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?app=gallery&module=user&user=4990&do=view_album&album=855
Tyler

[toysRme]

Ive got a Conquest with a 23cc Zenoah, very interested on how this goes.
video please!!
sitting on the side
:popcorn2:

[RaceMechaniX]

Did a little more work over the weekend.

First I sanded the entire inside of the cat to remove all the rough edges, fiberglass splinters and non-saturated spots and then flow coated the entire inside with some polyester resin. Turned out pretty nice and although it adds a little weight it saves me from those annoying sharp fiberglass spines that stick you and makes wiping down the inside from grease/oil easy.

Next I make a simple double ply plus carbon rudder servo mount which I sanded the bottom to the same V-contour as the cat hull. Its bonded with polyester and has a nice thick radius around the base where its joined for added strengh.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266440575/med_gallery_4990_855_25400.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266440575/med_gallery_4990_855_34000.jpg

Also visible in the last shot is the 5/32" carbon backing plate for the transom. This is just a nice addition to stop the transom hardware from pulling and deforming the wood transom over time. Tighten it once and forget it.

Ther servo mount is from CC racing, nice simple bent aluminum bracket.

I sketched up the stuffing tube and motor in CAD to find the best angle and minimal bend radius prior to drilling the motor mount holes. Ended up perfect and I was able to bend the stuffing tube exaclty which keeps the cable as free as possible. I also cut out a quick carbon plate to mount the Schulze to over the motor.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266440575/med_gallery_4990_855_1875.jpg

Because the Schulze' overhangs the motor mount and I can not move it farther forward due to the cowl I machined a back support for the esc which fits between the 5" stringers. Its a piece of delrin hogged out to lighten it with some silicon foam rubber to dampen vibrations.
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266952880/med_gallery_4990_855_42525.jpg

Another view of the delrin support mount. This view also shows the cable oiler i made from an aluminum collar.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266952880/med_gallery_4990_855_148990.jpg
http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266952880/med_gallery_4990_855_216224.jpg

Tyler

[toysRme]

Looks good, nice workmanship.
keep up the good work
:popcorn2:

[Brushless55]

very cool, I'm looking forward to the finished racer!
oh and to see the video :rockon2:

[DISAR]

Very nice presentation! Keep going. How long is your flex shaft going to be? Will you use teflon?

[RaceMechaniX]

Very nice presentation! Keep going. How long is your flex shaft going to be? Will you use teflon?

Thanks Guys,

Flex shaft is about 12" from collet to drive dog and it wil just run in the 5/16" brass tube without teflon. From my experience with gas and nitro using 1/4" lines the telfon would just burn up unless heavily oiled and cooled.

Tyler

[bonewar]

Nice work.

Very clean.

Thanks for posting your pictures.

CATS RULE!!!!

BONEWAR :rockon2:

[toysRme]

Nice work.

Very clean.

Thanks for posting your pictures.

CATS RULE!!!!

BONEWAR :rockon2:

:thumbup1:
:rockon2:

[crabstick]

Great build, :popcorn2:

[Punisher 67]

Very nice so far Tyler .......................:popcorn2:

[RaceMechaniX]

She is getting close to the finish:

On friday, I chucked up the 2215 in the lathe and turned down the cooling fins to form an o-ring gland on each end. A 2.5" ID can will slip right over and seal reasonably.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266993349/med_gallery_4990_855_78000.jpg

Now with the Silicon O-rings added. I will also clean up the small chips on the fins prior to mounting the cooler.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266993349/med_gallery_4990_855_50475.jpg

I decided to mount the Schulze on its own set of mounts. I did not like it hanging partly on the motor and partly on the Delrin mount. The major downside to this is the length of motor cable I have to run. If the the long runs causes heating or interference problems I'll shorten them up and scoot the esc closed to the end bell.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266993349/med_gallery_4990_855_5111.jpg

I glassed in 1/2" ply spacers to the bottom of the battery trays to lift them off the floor. This allows me run velcro battery tie downs in four places per tray. The trays and spacers were then glassed into the tub using a heavy mix of polyester resin and chopped fibers.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_27967.jpg

Another view:

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_174885.jpg

And another;

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_112455.jpg

cont'd

[RaceMechaniX]

The reciever power switch was mounted on the rear low enough to clear the tape area for the cowl.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_70449.jpg

Overall view with NeuEnergy 5S packs installed.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1266993349/med_gallery_4990_855_214977.jpg

All thats left to do is install the cooling jacket on the motor, plumb the cooling lines, add some floatation and mont some cowl tie downs.

Tyler

[Brushless55]

Looking good man!

[Rumdog]

Awesome! It's like a giant mean machine!!

[crabstick]

Conquest is a great Gas hull:popcorn2: I await the video!

[Xcesive8]

Yes i cant wait to see a video on this.
Nice clean work by the way..:thumbup1:

[big g money]

Looks awesome!:rockon2: This one will haul the mail for sure ! lol:bounce:

[bonewar]

RacemechaniX,

Mate I have 1 question for you.
How are you going to plug that schulze ESC to the 2 lipo packs.

Thanks

Bonewar :rockon2:

[RaceMechaniX]

RacemechaniX,

Mate I have 1 question for you.
How are you going to plug that schulze ESC to the 2 lipo packs.

Thanks

Bonewar :rockon2:

When running 1P, I have a heavy gauge jumper wire to run across the hull from one pack to the other, not ideal but I will only use the 1P set-up with low prop loads.

On 2P, each bank will have its own connetion to the esc.

Tyler

[Doug Smock]

Very nice and clean build!!

Doug

[Cat-Boi]

that is very slick!

[RaceMechaniX]

Just put all the last pieces on and she is ready to hit the water.

Installed the carbon water jacket from Andrew. Drilled and tapped two inlets on the bottom and two outlets on the top. The cooling water is "Y"ed before it comes into the Schulze. From the Schulze the cooling lines connect to the motor and then out the left side of the hull.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_168977.jpg

I'll use a FP RX 2S lipo for the reciever. Because the HiTec is good for direct 2S power and so is the reciever I'll skip the regulator.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_204264.jpg

Another view of everything fully rigged.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_32382.jpg

I am using two pairs of O-ring hold-downs on either end of the boat. I replaced the smaller diameter O-rings with some larger Silicon ones to spread the distance apart to allow ample room for tape down width.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_312244.jpg

Just need some water now.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_95264.jpg

[Brushless55]

looks nice man!
don't forget the video camera

[rearwheelin]

Very nice boat, hope u have more flotation in front though, boat looks tuff !

[RaceMechaniX]

Thanks and yes, there is a full pool noodle's worth of flotation up in the front.

TG

[rearwheelin]

I ordered a Conquest from Aeromarine last week , the speacial electric with the carbon in sponsons and middle with no bulk head. Remy said that the bulkhead makes that boat strong however i opted to leave it out and put it in later. My goal is 60mph with 4 4s 5000ma 40c. Im going to put 4 cheap 540xls from H.C. and 4 turnigy 180amp esc's. I have ordered all hardware and motors , everything but lipos and esc's. I would like to find some skeged struts for it in 3/16 but dont think anyone makes them but octura(i dont like them) so i have ordered all speed master struts with the extended mono bracket. My plan is to put some large mono turn fins on it to keep it from skidding and use some telamatry programing to slow inside props down threw the turns. Question ; Do you think the 3/16 struts are long enouph to hit the water on full plain ? Otherwise Im going to have to find some 4mm flat aluminum and a tig welder to make em longer , I dont want to build up 1/4'' struts. Have you ever heard of anyone using turnfins on a cat ?
Thanks , Randy:beerchug:

[Rumdog]

Where did you get the idea for 4 drives? Have you tried this type of setup before? I've never heard of 4 drives on a cat. 2 per sponson, or 1 per sponson and 2 struts in the tunnel? Sorry, just curiosity, I think I saw you mention it in another thread.

[rearwheelin]

Where did you get the idea for 4 drives? Have you tried this type of setup before? I've never heard of 4 drives on a cat. 2 per sponson, or 1 per sponson and 2 struts in the tunnel? Sorry, just curiosity, I think I saw you mention it in another thread.I thought of the idea after i biult my36'' sprint cat and kept burning esc and motor up trying to attain speeds in the 70mph range. I wasnt the only thing i liked about that boat was how it handled and how stable it was at 75mph, I was using CC240hv and 15271y on 8s 2p n prather 240. All though the boat had enouph power to flip over under hard excelleration I wasnt satisfied with its performance from 0-60. I want the front end of the boat to jump when i punch the throttle like my mean machine did. Also 4 180 amp speed controlls=720 amps continuous and 1440 amp quick bursts. I wont need to run expensive esc or lipos and it has a good cool factor.:beerchug:

[Rumdog]

Wierd. I have the same sprintcat, which is actually 34" (sprintcat 40) I run 5s2p, 1527 1.5d and x455. If i punch it from a dead stop, the boat will flip directly onto it's lid. Every time. I have to feather the throttle onto plane then punch it. Top speed with that motor batt/ prop combo is 63.6 mph so far, but acceleration is the very least of a problem. 4 drives is going to be overkill IMO. Sorry about getting so off topic. rearwheelin, will you have a build thread?

[rearwheelin]

Wierd. I have the same sprintcat, which is actually 34" (sprintcat 40) I run 5s2p, 1527 1.5d and x455. If i punch it from a dead stop, the boat will flip directly onto it's lid. Every time. I have to feather the throttle onto plane then punch it. Top speed with that motor batt/ prop combo is 63.6 mph so far, but acceleration is the very least of a problem. 4 drives is going to be overkill IMO. Sorry about getting so off topic. rearwheelin, will you have a build thread?

I will start a build thread when I get my stuff in , it is probably going to be a slow build. Boat was a 34'' ...lol...Aeromarine says its 36'', probably cause the turbine hatch, mine did the same thing to, landed upside down everytime, seemed to run wet untill it got up to around 50mph or so, I ran four 4800ma 4s seriesed then parralled, I fried a 1527 1.5d and then went with 15271y a higher kv because of the thicker windings hoping the motor wouldnt build soo much heat. What I like about the twin props is that when the front end of the boat lifts it does it without the torque effect as long as you run left n right props. There is no doubt the boat will be over built but i think it will be a blast to run and the sound of it sould be increadable on 6s ! My hangup is how too make the boat carve turnes like the single props do. I am pretty sure that i will run the struts toward the sponsons, left and right on each side of the boat, but i kind of need the boat to be sure, i dont want my rudder directly behind a prop catching prop wash cause I believe that will cause unneeded drag on the rudder and would make the boat run wet at slower speeds also dont want air in my water lines. I will keep fellas informed on my build .

[Brushless55]

Just put all the last pieces on and she is ready to hit the water.

Installed the carbon water jacket from Andrew. Drilled and tapped two inlets on the bottom and two outlets on the top. The cooling water is "Y"ed before it comes into the Schulze. From the Schulze the cooling lines connect to the motor and then out the left side of the hull.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_168977.jpg

I'll use a FP RX 2S lipo for the reciever. Because the HiTec is good for direct 2S power and so is the reciever I'll skip the regulator.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_204264.jpg

Another view of everything fully rigged.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_32382.jpg

I am using two pairs of O-ring hold-downs on either end of the boat. I replaced the smaller diameter O-rings with some larger Silicon ones to spread the distance apart to allow ample room for tape down width.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_312244.jpg

Just need some water now.

http://www.intlwaters.com/uploads/1267470783/med_gallery_4990_855_95264.jpg

Bro!
did you ever run this bad boy? :spy:

[jb1234]

Let's see a vid

[RaceMechaniX]

Yes, I finally got to run her, but no one else was around to tape her running. She ran in the low 70's with a mid level set-up. Would be good for a 7 lap race, but no more.

Next time I'll try and get some video.

Tyler

[RaceMechaniX]

Guys,

I finally got the chance to run the Conquest with the repaired and beefed up Schulze and WOW she runs great. Two runs on 10S with a X457 and 71.2 mph both runs. She airs out beautifully on the straights and turns consistently around the ends. I am very very happy with this set-up thus far. No video or pics as I was the only one at the pond.

I downloaded the data last night and controller temps were around 83C, Batteries around 60C and motor around 75C are end of run.

She goes exactly 8 laps before the LVC cuts in on 6500mAh 1P packs. Just enough for 6 lap race. I will be looking forward to July when I can race her in the open class at our next district race.

Tyler

[rearwheelin]

Sounds dialed ...... I am very curious on your ready to run wieght.:beerchug:

[RaceMechaniX]

I have not checked yet as I do not have a scale at home. My guess is around 13 lbs with 10S1P worth of batts. Feels light.

[Xfactor]

Mr. MechaniX can I ask you a question about your esc?

[RaceMechaniX]

Mr. MechaniX can I ask you a question about your esc?

Of course, ask away.

Tyler

[Xfactor]

:popcorn2:
you can choke on your popcorn. You eat that alot I guess thats why your build threads have two pages of talk not one bit of construction. Let the big boys play while you learn to build.LOL. Less type more wrench thats what you need to do.

[Xfactor]

Anyway Mr mechanix I know some of the shulze escs have a closed loop option. Does yours? If so does the manual give you an idea of what the motor needs in terms of sensors for implementing the closed loop function on the esc? Thank you MR. Mechanix.Ill just pm you any further questions cause you got people on here who dont even know the basics, I mean they need help on motor choice but they think theyre ready to chime in on discussion about closed loop esc function. They will just get in the way of a technical discussion.Thanks X

[forescott]

Looks fantastic! You are a true craftsman!

[Rumdog]

Yep, he's special alright.

[Xfactor]

anyway mr Mechanix if you can get back to me id appreciate it im not going back to this with this kid.Im talking tech I dont know what there talking about.The only thing destructive is an inability to accept others opinions or get mad when they dont accept yours.Using student status to discredit me wont work think about it the knowledge is fresh in my head some have never even been exposed to the knowledge plus the whole point of ME telling people I was in school was so I could get some help from full fledged ee's something this kid is not but Im mecp certified, 12 volt certified, and 20 plus years of experience . You got silly people that just run around trying to discredit me cause to me it was obvious that they were no experts and I didnt take their advice on a motor. Thats all it is .Ignore me? ha I dont pm these guys they cant help me get anything accomplished I only pm gurus.Lastly hows someone gonna talk about destroying threads when they make a point to comment on my every comment. The boy is more responsible than I am cause he has to feed his ego and always be rite then when you go tech on him its " since you know so much why you ask?" like a kid rightfully.They ran A guy clean off this forum over a kb motor.They think this is there forum i dont know why.Ask yourself I asked the man who owns this boat a question why are yall talking? Pm me 99z286spd please so your thread can live in peace lol.Check the technique they talk junk to me on my own threads lol when if im so dumb why are you reading them in the first place? Puzzling.

[RaceMechaniX]

Anyway Mr mechanix I know some of the shulze escs have a closed loop option. Does yours? If so does the manual give you an idea of what the motor needs in terms of sensors for implementing the closed loop function on the esc? Thank you MR. Mechanix.Ill just pm you any further questions cause you got people on here who dont even know the basics, I mean they need help on motor choice but they think theyre ready to chime in on discussion about closed loop esc function. They will just get in the way of a technical discussion.Thanks X

By closed loop do you mean the speed sensor option? Yes my esc does have this option, but its really designed for use with gliders and other planes with folding props. Its more a position sensor then speed sensor. From reading, the position option uses a hall sensor and a magnet in the spinner. When you let off the throttle in an aerobatic mode the esc looks for the correct position and stops the rotor so that a folding props tucks in the correct position.

The esc's already have RPM measurement through the back EMF and timing advance calculation.

Does this answer your question?

Tyler

[Xfactor]

No sir closed loop the abilty to have a locked rotor. Do you know what im saying?Let me re ask you this way. Will a schulze run a sensored motor?I undersatnd motor speed and how to impliment I was curious if the esc could run a sensored motor and if this was done via hall sensors. Did they include any info in the manual on sensored motors/ Can you give me a link if so?Sorry guys i guess he thinks its a valid question.Thank you very much sir.


hate on haters you are the village people!lol
X

[RaceMechaniX]

Schulze can run sensored or sensorless motors, but they do not use the hall cables like a novak brushless motor/esc combo does. If you want to run a sensored motor with a Schulze you can just leave the hall wires disconnected. The ESC uses back EMF to calculate position and adjust advance automatically. It's mentioned on Page 1 and page 4 in the manual for the l, XL and XXL controllers.

[Xfactor]

Im confused cause that in itself is no big deal all sensorless escs do that. I saw something that said closed loop. Thats not closed loop. So Im lost with that.

[RaceMechaniX]

I just searched for "closed loop" in the PDF and didn't find anything. Where did you see closed loop mentioned?

[Xfactor]

TYLER,
I mean what you described just means you can run a sensored motor sensorless on the schultz esc. I dont doubt you I just though I saw that somewhere. If they dont have that feature what do these expensive esc's offer over say a swordfish to justify all the cost I mean they fail too?

[Xfactor]

It seems if the esc will run with a hall sensored setup then u can impliment the closed loop through firmware. I just cant believe a hybrid car would have a sensorless setup (much less low speed driveability) the only reason for sensorless is cheper to build less to fail but its inferior to a closed loop design

[Xfactor]

Hit me up later. $$$$$WEET build.If you get a new motor I want dibbs.

[RaceMechaniX]

You are paying for quality, actual current ratings not inflated ones and a better design.

How often do you hear of the Chinese made esc's just crapping out on the same set-up used day after day? Pretty often. If you have ever taken the shrink off one of these you can see the difference. Cold solder points, poorly placed components, poor cooling and the list goes on.

I have nothing against the Chinese made esc's, but you get what you pay for. I do have a gripe when I pay for a $450 esc made in China and it goes poof on the bench with no load and no user error. This happens must less frequently with Schulze's. The guys who do blow up Schulze's are usually pushing the limits and expect such risks. Otherwise, most of us who run them are pretty happy and you don't hear anything becuase the just keep running.

It's like buying a Snap-On versus a bargin bin special. The Snap-on has a high investment cost, but you'll keep it for a long time and it will hold up as such. The bargin bin special is a throw away item.

The Castle's, Turnigy's, Swordfishes, etc are all excellent values but at some point you'll be tired of cooking them and replacing them and you'll want the Cadillac.

[Xfactor]

THE BENZ you mean. aint nothing more ragedy than an old cadillac lol. I got you on the quality though.

[Diegoboy]

I love this feature!

Today, 07:52 AM

This message is hidden because Xfactor is on your ignore list. The admins have designated him village idiot.

the admins/mods have no favorites or would ever speak on a memeber in that way
Please refrain from these type of comments

[Xfactor]

Thank you very much sir I appreciate that.

[Xfactor]

Tyler pm me on the mongoose I didnt really get to see what you got.

[TotalPackage]

Whats up tyler? Any update on your boat?

[RaceMechaniX]

Not any super updates. It has been running flawlessy thus far after the controller was fixed. runs 71~72 consistently back to back to back. Amp draw on the batts is on the limit when running 10S1P, but everything is very comfy on 10S2P or 8S2P.

I'll be running her this weekend in the open class at our district race. Shuold be fun as long as I don't get bumper and banged too bad.


Tyler

[Rumdog]

What size prop you running?

[TotalPackage]

What ended up being wrong with the controller?

[RaceMechaniX]

Prop on 10S is a Octura X457

The problem with the Schulze was the cap leads. I vaporized them when I connected an external cap bank on the very first run. Once it was fixed it ran great. see earlier detail in the thread.

Tyler

[Rumdog]

cool. I run that motor in a df 39 on 9s2p. Was curious how much prop this motor can turn. So far i've only ran a x455 with super low motor temps.

[Killer V]

After just finishing my Aeromarine Cycle build just today. I have to say that you did an outstanding job on the build. I think I may also up mmy prop for the maiden voyagem based on your info. My Leopard is a 1095 kv. I only through on an x450. I think I will start with an x457. I am running 8s2p. I think it should handle the speed and the prop load.

How wide in the Conquest? The Cyclone is 17" wide. I built it for Open Offshore racing.

Again you did a great job on thr build.


Jeff

[TotalPackage]

Any updates T?

[RaceMechaniX]

Jeff, Thanks for the compliments. The conquest is 16" width compared to the Cyclone. Likewise I built mine for open class racing although its difficult to make a full 6 lap offshore course with 10,000 mAh.

No other updates on the boat. I am waiting for a Castle Hydra Ice HV to power the Neu motor. The Schulze had too many issues with this Neu motor so I shelved it in till I get a Hydra Ice HV. I tested with both of the ICE esc on 8S and 10S and was very happy with the results.

Tyler

[TotalPackage]

Jeff, Thanks for the compliments. The conquest is 16" width compared to the Cyclone. Likewise I built mine for open class racing although its difficult to make a full 6 lap offshore course with 10,000 mAh.

No other updates on the boat. I am waiting for a Castle Hydra Ice HV to power the Neu motor. The Schulze had too many issues with this Neu motor so I shelved it in till I get a Hydra Ice HV. I tested with both of the ICE esc on 8S and 10S and was very happy with the results.

Tyler

Tyler what was the schulze doing with the Neu?

[RaceMechaniX]

It would only go partial throttle and then quit. The newer Schulzes have a problem with the low inductance of the Neu motors. I assume that with the current logging (indirect reading based on measuring the voltage drop across the FETS and knowing their resistance) on the newer controllers, the Neu's have huge currents at partial load which trips the over current protection. The Castle controllers due not have the same issue not due to older Schulze's without current detection.

Tyler

[TotalPackage]

hMMM! THANKS FOR THE INFO.

[10gauge]

Fantastic build, Tyler! I love the carbon fiber LiPo bays. What is the consensus on the strut for this hull - skeg or no skeg? I was contemplating on getting a Schulze to run 12S on a 2230/1Y with a conquest. I have a new in the box Castle 240HV, but some are saying that the Castle is not safe above 10S?...

[TotalPackage]

Fantastic build, Tyler! I love the carbon fiber LiPo bays. What is the consensus on the strut for this hull - skeg or no skeg? I was contemplating on getting a Schulze to run 12S on a 2230/1Y with a conquest. I have a new in the box Castle 240HV, but some are saying that the Castle is not safe above 10S?...

10 gaUge get you a 14s jetti the schultz aint worth the money for schultz cash get a mgm 63250 comp pro 15 s capable 250 amp continuous and loads of options same price but as stong as the biggest scuhlze

[10gauge]

TotalPackage: ... Get a mgm 63250 comp pro 15 s capable 250 amp continuous and loads of options same price but as stong as the biggest scuhlze

Very nice ESC! This must be the one? http://mgm-compro.com/index.php?tid=brushless-speed-controllers-tmm-25063-3-x-series-32-bit-system
However, I didn't see an option with water-cooling?...

[TotalPackage]

Oh my friend you can orde this thing with water cooling on both sides fans on both sides what ever you want the is also a navy version of an etti 300 u can get her for under 600 too If you notice Tyler had issue with the newer autoset schulze on neus so be careful.

[RaceMechaniX]

Fantastic build, Tyler! I love the carbon fiber LiPo bays. What is the consensus on the strut for this hull - skeg or no skeg? I was contemplating on getting a Schulze to run 12S on a 2230/1Y with a conquest. I have a new in the box Castle 240HV, but some are saying that the Castle is not safe above 10S?...

10gauge,

I run a skegged 1/4" SM strut on mine. I would recommend the strut set-up. Keeps the cat from spinning out in the turns. If you are just going for speed, run a round bottom strut instead.

I woudl recommend the newer Hydra Ice esc's from Castle. These work great with the Neu 22XX motors.

Tyler

[Punisher 67]

I don't know if this is to pertinent but I have a 2230/1y and a Schulze old style V16 on not a single issue with the setup .

[RaceMechaniX]

Correct, the older escs that have the caps hanging off the end work fine, but the new one with caps mounted on the board due have issues.

Tyler

[Punisher 67]

Good to know Tyler.....thanks

[10gauge]

Thanks, Tyler.