PDA

View Full Version : Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion...



Darin Jordan
09-07-2007, 10:46 PM
Hi guys... Just barely getting started, but I have the cowl painted now... The deck still needs to be taped off and painted.... Red down the center between the sponsons, and green on the sponson decks... More to come...

andym
09-08-2007, 05:36 AM
Very nice Darin, looks way better than standard, you have got the artists touch mate.

Darin Jordan
09-10-2007, 12:00 PM
Hey Guys... I have the paint on the deck drying as I type... I'm going to shoot a couple of coats of clear over it tonight, afterwhich I'll see about getting some updated pics posted... It looks great!

Say, can someone who has done this conversion using an Octua mount and REK lower please tell me what the mounting dimensions for the mount were?? The instructions cover the OS MAX .21 mounting and the K&B Lower with Dubro mount mounting, but I am going to be using an Octura 3.5 mount with the REK lower, and would like to get the inserts installed while I'm still waiting for the mount to arrive...

Thanks,

Darin Jordan
09-10-2007, 08:27 PM
Here are some shots of the completed paint job... I may try to get a couple of decals for it, but for now, this is it...

I'll let this sit for a couple of days, then start mounting the motor and hardware...

Team X
09-10-2007, 11:31 PM
Looks Great!!

Jeepers
09-11-2007, 12:05 AM
I like how that came out, that looks great!:thumbup1:

Fast Guy
09-11-2007, 05:57 AM
Nice paint job. I have the REK lower with a Dubro mount. I could get you the hole locations I you think it would help.

Darin Jordan
09-11-2007, 10:59 AM
Nice paint job. I have the REK lower with a Dubro mount. I could get you the hole locations I you think it would help.

That might help... I'm going to be using the Octura 3.5 mount, but I understand they are the same bolt pattern??? If you have the dimensions, that would be a great help...

kck741
09-11-2007, 07:36 PM
Wow that boat looks just a good as you delta

Darin Jordan
09-12-2007, 09:07 PM
Hi Guys,

Just thought I'd show you the cooling plates I just fabbed for my SV27 ESC for this project... I needed something much thinner than the factory ones, and I think these will work nicely...

The factory casing is just black anodized aluminum extrusion with the ESC inside and potted on either end, so I cleaned up the top and bottom, applied a little heat transfer compound (like you'd use on a CPU heat sink or similiar) and then used some high-temp tape I have (this happens to be "Boeing" quality for use in composite layup autoclaving...) to secure it all together... I think this may actually work better than the stock setup... It definately contacts the surface better... Not any heavier either...


Oh, and a BIG THANK YOU to Andym for sending me another factory radio box... I got it today and it's going to work very well I think...

More to come...

SJFE
09-12-2007, 09:13 PM
Darin you are the rattle can KING. I am going to hunt down some of that expensive mask you use and have a go @ the jolly.

Jeepers
09-13-2007, 12:04 AM
Automotive paint centers carry the best tape.

Darin Jordan
09-15-2007, 01:53 PM
Here are a couple more pics, showing the second stock radio box, modified and attached to the unmodified stock box... Batteries should go in the front, rx and steering servo in the back... ESC will sit on the rear tray where the fuel tank was meant to go... We'll have to see if I can work out the 9.5" or so CG with this arrangement...

More to come...

kck741
09-15-2007, 02:16 PM
Where are you going to put the batteries are you going to stack them?

Darin Jordan
09-15-2007, 02:27 PM
Where are you going to put the batteries are you going to stack them?

4S1P of 5000 mah Poly RC Lipo cells drops right into the front box with room to spare... I lay them in there on edge, but they come in and out and fit fine...

Fast Guy
09-15-2007, 07:10 PM
I'm wondering if your weight might be too far forward. The TS2 doesn't like to stray too far from that 9 1/2in balance point. Thats a good idea for the box. I extended my box so I could lay both my batteries on the bottom. The boat handles much better that way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/NitroFlash/RC%20Boats/TS2001BatBox.jpg

Darin Jordan
09-15-2007, 07:22 PM
I'm wondering if your weight might be too far forward. The TS2 doesn't like to stray too far from that 9 1/2in balance point. Thats a good idea for the box. I extended my box so I could lay both my batteries on the bottom. The boat handles much better that way.

Only one way to find out! Your's looks really nice... I figured I'd try it this way, at least up to the point where I get the motor mounted and can actually check the CG... If it's off, I'll revise my plans accordingly... I haven't ruled out cutting out the deck and just building a full-length box... but I wanted to see if I could make it work with this less intrusive method first... You may be right... It may be too far forward...

But then... With the nitro ones, the guys are having to add 5-6oz of weight to the nose to get them right... so we'll see... I should know shortly... Just have to get the motor mounted...

Darin Jordan
09-20-2007, 01:57 PM
Well... I have Steven sending me an Octura 3.5 mount, and Brian ordered me a Dubro 3.5 mount with his order...

Awh the Heck with it... SCREW the extra weight... I just made THIS purchase and it's going to LOOK COOL.... BLING!!

Might not be quite as fast, but it will look DAMN good when Brian and the others go blowing past me!!

SJFE
09-20-2007, 04:20 PM
See now thats what I'm talkin bout. Anodized shiney stuff. Nothing I like more on a boat. Nice Peice of hardware man!!!!! Ya know if I didn't know any better I'd say it was a jack plate. Kinda look like one.

Darin Jordan
09-20-2007, 04:27 PM
Ya know if I didn't know any better I'd say it was a jack plate. Kinda look like one.

It IS a Jack Plate!! "Hi-Jack 3.5"... :w00t: :tongue_smilie: :buttrock:

Darin Jordan
09-26-2007, 07:37 PM
Well... I get a little further each day... Just have to install the steering rods and add the cooling lines to the lower unit, and I should be just about ready...

The Hi-Jack 3.5 is WAY too cool, in my opinion!!

I also have one of these new motor mount blocks coming from Ray Fuller... There is a motor cover being developed that isn't done yet, but that will attach to this block and give it more of a "scale" look.... That ought to wrap things up nicely...

More to come...

andym
09-27-2007, 12:03 AM
Darin it looks bloody great mate, cant wait to see how it goes. I am having trouble with mine wanting to go upside downs in fast tight turns because the xl feigao motor sits to high and is to heavy. If the sv motor works good might try the ammo motor. As is much smaller in size and wieght to the xl.

Darin Jordan
09-27-2007, 12:27 AM
Darin it looks bloody great mate, cant wait to see how it goes. I am having trouble with mine wanting to go upside downs in fast tight turns because the xl feigao motor sits to high and is to heavy. If the sv motor works good might try the ammo motor. As is much smaller in size and wieght to the xl.

Andy,

I also lowered the motor down on the lower leg as FAR as I could... I was able to get it about 3/16" or so lower than it was originally when I bought the unit... Just took a lot of measureing and test fitting to get it just right... Measure twice, cut once, and all that... ;)

whiplash
09-27-2007, 01:37 AM
stupid question....are you guys running these motors on the legs open like that ?

andym
09-27-2007, 04:18 AM
Yep. I run the 8xl on the TP2 and a 10l on a supreme F1 open, just oil bearings regulary and the flex shaft every run. Have turned both boats over many times and motors still run great. The supreme is that over powered a back flip is only a eager trigger finger away.

Darin Jordan
10-01-2007, 08:27 PM
OK... Done!

All ready to hit the water... 5lbs 10.4oz RTR w/ 4S1P 4350mah 20C cells...

I'll let you know how it does after this coming weekend...

C.Smock
10-01-2007, 10:07 PM
looks great man!!!!

whiplash
10-01-2007, 10:43 PM
nice........

JimClark
10-02-2007, 12:26 AM
Boy if I didn't know better I would swear you worked for Oberto

Looks great Darin.
Jim


OK... Done!

All ready to hit the water... 5lbs 10.4oz RTR w/ 4S1P 4350mah 20C cells...

I'll let you know how it does after this coming weekend...

Fast Guy
10-02-2007, 04:06 AM
Looks good Darin. I like the motor mount and Fullers new mount with the steering ears. Once Ray gets the motor covers done the high performance electric outboard will be complete.

Darin Jordan
10-02-2007, 05:17 AM
Boy if I didn't know better I would swear you worked for Oberto

One could only wish! One of these days... I need to find a real sponson willing to pay for all this talent... ;)

Darin Jordan
10-02-2007, 05:19 AM
Once Ray gets the motor covers done the high performance electric outboard will be complete.

I agree...

I'm going to be reworking the mounting of the steering linkage at the motor... maybe even before this weekend... as I never really liked the ball-sockets that are on there for this purpose... too much weight and torque to try to control for those little things... NOW I know why you cut down the top of the transom area on yours! Impossible to run steering arms straight to the motor steering arms...

Darin Jordan
10-02-2007, 05:43 PM
OK... I couldn't wait... I stopped today and picked up some parts and have re-worked the steering rod ends... These are much less likely to fail or give me trouble...

NOW I'm "done"... ;)

Well... errr... except that I now want to get some STAINLESS STEEL bolts for the new likage mount points (a little longer than what is there so as to fully engage the lock-nut...)...

Are we EVER truely finished??? :D

andym
10-02-2007, 10:16 PM
Darin enough playing how about running that fine boat!!

whiplash
10-02-2007, 10:29 PM
that'll work real nice........

whiplash
10-02-2007, 10:54 PM
Darin, just wondering what are you using to charge the poly rc 4S1P 5000mAh, and how are you balancing it? what brand charger and balancer? thanks

Darin Jordan
10-02-2007, 11:15 PM
Darin, just wondering what are you using to charge the poly rc 4S1P 5000mAh, and how are you balancing it? what brand charger and balancer? thanks

The 4S1P setup I have is actually two 2S1P cells (4350mah) wired in series... I charge them by initially balancing and peaking them individually, either on my Hyperion charger or on my ICE chargers... using Hyperion LBA-10 balancers... Then I hook them together in series and race with them...

During the race-day, I don't use a balancer and I'll charge these up as 4S1P... again either with my ICE or Hyperion charger... If I want to, I can hook two of my balancers up per the Hyperion instructions to balance charge these on the Hyperion together, which is likely what I figure out how to do this week... I have all the network wiring, etc. to do it...

By next season, I'll have dedicated 4S1P packs, but this year I only bought 2S1P packs, as I mostly race the N2 classes... That was just my way of making a choice of classes that would make the transition to Lipos more affordable... as I can use combinations of 2S1P packs to do just about anything I want...

kavvika
10-02-2007, 11:18 PM
You can just thread the locknut backwards in the meantime, I do this on the steering on my TC since the bolt is just 1mm too short to fully thread into the plastic. But wow, that is quite the boat. Very nice work!

Darin Jordan
10-03-2007, 05:43 AM
You can just thread the locknut backwards in the meantime...

It should be fine for one race weekend... There are a couple of threads engaged in the nylon now, so it's not going anywhere...

Darin Jordan
10-20-2007, 03:26 PM
Just thought you might be interested in seeing the beginnings of a second TS-2 conversion... This one is going to be done up for a more modified setup. I plan some major reworking of the sponsons, etc.... Will likely either run it as a 4S2P setup, but may try it as a 2S2P setup instead... Just depends on what motors and batteries I have at my disposal at the time...

Anyhow, I've gone all the way with a complete radio-box redesign... built this one from scratch to maximize the room available under the cowl, still without having to cut into the hull... so the box will easily transfer from hull to hull...

More to come!

ace028
10-20-2007, 04:14 PM
Darin,
What are you using to seal your wood with?

Darin Jordan
10-20-2007, 04:43 PM
Darin,
What are you using to seal your wood with?

MAS "Flag" Medium cure epoxy thinned about 30-40% with Denatured Alcohol...

I've also had good luck on a rigger recently (see my 19-Turn Spec Rigger build) just using several coats of Krylon Crystal Clear clear gloss laquer... then sanding with 600 afterwards... REALLY smooth... But for the tunnel, it's not about a nice finish... you never see the thing... I just wanted it water tight and I like the added strength the epoxy gives to the wood...

andym
10-20-2007, 10:36 PM
Hey guys I have found the Pacer Z- Poxy finishing resin the greatest thing since sliced bread! No thinning required, low fume and not brittle. Give it a go. Oh and it sands easily and comes up nice and shiney

Darin Jordan
10-22-2007, 08:21 AM
Hey Guys... We ran these this weekend at a race with the Puget Sound Model Boat Club (a nitro club from which our club decended)... Was fun running at a combined race with the nitro boats... we ran separate heats, but I think everyone enjoyed seeing all the combined technologies...

We're starting to get these tunnels going well now... It's easy to get them going... takes a bit more work to get them going really fast... but we're honing in on it...

These shots of my boat were taken by Jerry Dunlap...

MOTOboat
11-09-2007, 02:57 PM
Hi Darin,

I have a TS2 FE conversion in the works, same Hi jack mount (COOL FACTOR). Was trying to think how to do a resonable Radio box like the larger one you made. Saw plans for it will use that to start. I'm have 1515 1Y and 1.5Y to play with. I expect to use 4P and just have fun.

I used Nylon "sliding" ball connetors for my steering to make the MOTOR easy to remove after each days use. Never really used the motor cover the one below is for my son. I just Corrson-X the heck out of them and for two years and far too many upside downs I have not had an issue with the motors. Keeping the batteries dry in the F1 now thats another story....

I'll post you some pics as I start working on it this winter. Here is a picture of my first FE a Sumpreme F1 - Lehner 4200xl 2s.

Not to stable but fun to drive.

MOTOboat...

Ub Hauled
01-01-2008, 11:01 PM
Darin, where did you buy the Jack Plate from?
I looked for one a while back and never found it...

obrien
01-02-2008, 11:43 PM
Hey Guys... We ran these this weekend at a race with the Puget Sound Model Boat Club (a nitro club from which our club decended)... Was fun running at a combined race with the nitro boats... we ran separate heats, but I think everyone enjoyed seeing all the combined technologies...

We're starting to get these tunnels going well now... It's easy to get them going... takes a bit more work to get them going really fast... but we're honing in on it...

These shots of my boat were taken by Jerry Dunlap...

What speeds do these boats run in race trim? What setup did you end up running on the second boat?

Darin Jordan
01-02-2008, 11:54 PM
The "Hi-Jack 3.5" motor mount is from "Capt Vic" on the International Waters forum... He sometimes has them listed on E-Bay as well, though I haven't seen one in awhile...

The boats are nearing 40-mph in the pics... I think there is more there... we haven't even started really tweaking props yet... Much faster, and the TS-2 needs a tad bit of work to make it handle well... but at these speeds, it's very drivable and fun to compete with...

On my WoodStuff 3.5, I'm going to run the identical setup inorder to compare the differences in hulls... Should be interesting...

obrien
01-02-2008, 11:59 PM
What kind of speeds are needed to be competitive? I am assuming that this is the boat with the SV motor?

Darin Jordan
01-03-2008, 12:23 AM
Since we are all running SV27 power systems... these speeds are competitive... They are a tad slower than a REALLY good 3.5 Stock Nitro boat... but not by much...

We are going to be testing the idea of running 2S2P setups and 4S1P setups against each other in a "Mod" class this summer... should be interesting... since it's claimed that 2S2P and 4S1P have the same available "power"...

obrien
01-03-2008, 01:15 AM
ok. The idea here is to all run the same motor, so the best setup/driver will come out on top. When you said the boat would run better once you started working on props, I figured you speeds would go up a quite a bit more.

SJFE
01-03-2008, 07:05 PM
I'll be taking the second one from here :D.

properchopper
01-04-2008, 01:36 AM
Got home from work at 7 p.m. with the big box at the door. Here's as far as I've gotten by 10:30; thanks for the radio box plans. Will check out the Hyperformance lower unit tomorrow. This is all your fault , Darin ! lol :doh:

Darin Jordan
01-04-2008, 06:32 AM
Got home from work at 7 p.m. with the big box at the door. Here's as far as I've gotten by 10:30; thanks for the radio box plans. Will check out the Hyperformance lower unit tomorrow. This is all your fault , Darin ! lol :doh:

Sorry!! NOT!! ;)

Say, at the aft end of that box... you'll do yourself a big favour is you cut that flat... In other words, trim the back of the box to get rid of the section that angles... It'll give you more room to run wires, steering, and water lines out of it... Just cut it straight up from the base of the angle where it meets the bottom... See attached pic...

properchopper
01-04-2008, 08:54 AM
Thanks, looks like a sensible mod. Glad I didn't start glueing last night. BTW ; what method of attaching the box to the hull do you recommend ? :smile:

Darin Jordan
01-04-2008, 09:54 AM
... what method of attaching the box to the hull do you recommend ? :smile:

I just used a dab of shoe-goo under the front and back on my first one... Probably do something similiar with this one... I also taped around the parimeter on the first one.. just to help keep water from getting trapped inder it... I've seen others just use velcro, but since it's housing the steering, I figured I wanted mine a little more solid than that...

My WoodStuff box is held down with a pair of screws... There may be structure there on the TS-2 to do that, but I haven't tried...

ice329
01-04-2008, 10:48 AM
Daren do you have actual plans for the box. I got mine up and ready to start a box. If you got actual plans I would really apreciate it.

I tryed to figure a way to fit the actual SV box... so easy but no matter what I cant justify cutting the cowl to fit it....

Darin Jordan
01-04-2008, 11:18 AM
No problem... Here are the original plans I drew up... actually just tracings I did and scanned... Line up the sheets and you should be set... NO two of these hulls are exactly the same, so fit as you go... The drawings are in .pdf format, so hopefully you have Adobe...

TS-2 Radio Box Drawings (http://home.comcast.net/~djjordan/RC/TopSpeed2_Radio_Box_Drawing.pdf)

Hope this helps...

ice329
01-04-2008, 11:38 AM
Big Thank You

properchopper
01-05-2008, 10:03 PM
Box is mostly completed. Thanks for the plans, D. Were a big help. Fits into hull like a glove. Should start the drive system next week. Be prepared for more questions :D

Darin Jordan
01-05-2008, 10:41 PM
Very COOL! Glad to see the drawings resulted in something useful! ;)

properchopper
01-05-2008, 10:51 PM
Yup ! And now I feel qualified to do jigsaw puzzles !!:w00t:

SJFE
01-05-2008, 11:06 PM
I am 20 bux away from making my order from Hyper for my lower leg. I also thank ya for the plans Darin :). I will be having @ it tuesday.

Darin Jordan
01-07-2008, 09:26 PM
Gang,

I've completed updating my TS-2 with the new full length radio box... This was the basis for the drawings I provided... With everything located as it is... balance point is about 9", which is 1/2" behind where it's recommended, so I have plenty of room to move it forward... It handled great a 9.5" last time out, so I'm expecting similiar results when I get to test it again...

All up weight for this hull with 4S1P of Poly RC 20C 4350 mah pack (actually... two 2S1P 4350 packs in series... so a tad heavier than a 4S pack by itself)... is 5lbs 12oz...

Darin Jordan
01-07-2008, 09:27 PM
Just a couple more...

properchopper
01-08-2008, 12:39 AM
Thanks for the photos ! Answers some questions I had about interior layout. Am awaiting outdrive & Hi-Jack [ yup, had to have one]. Also, although everyone has their "special" prop, which one would you suggest to be a good starting point ?

SJFE
01-08-2008, 09:26 AM
Well I kick mine off tonight :D. Paypaling Captian Vic this afternoon for the mount. I should have my ridepads curing by bed time.

Darin Jordan
01-08-2008, 11:49 AM
I should have my ridepads curing by bed time.

Kool! :w00t: I want to see pics (start your own damn thread though! ;) )

Hey... wait a minute... with these changes... yours is going to be faster than mine! :huh: I'd better go get to work! ;)

SJFE
01-08-2008, 04:30 PM
Hey... wait a minute... with these changes... yours is going to be faster than mine!

:laugh: :laugh: Oh we can't have that now can we:D. I will start my thread @ the end of the night.

Bill-SOCAL
01-09-2008, 08:39 PM
GOt my spiffy jack plate today. Radio box is built. Tonight I'll strap the motor to the transom and install the servo.

God willin' an if the crick don't rise I should be able to run this thing this Sunday. Even better I hope to have the big Cat with me as well. Depends on time this week, plus I have to spend most all of the weekend at the AMA show in Ontario.

Too much fun.

H&MWill
01-09-2008, 09:05 PM
Darin, very nice work sir!

ice329
01-13-2008, 08:13 PM
I am getting there... that box wasnt as easy as you all made it sound...heheh I change a few things. I utilized the waterproof fitting from the SV and will send all the wires and water hoses threw that. The boat is basically finished or should I say roughed in now I will disassemble everything and begin the final product. Just ordered a new set of Lipo's, a set of 5350's just for this boat. Only one problem.... I dont have a prop...ohhh nooooo I sold my last X642 and the M445's dont fit, there just a tad to big. Anyway, by next week she will be done.

Flicking threw the channels yesterday I came up on a real tunnel race, these tunnels are awsom. I have always loved the tunnel boats, this one is gonna be my favorite I can tell already...

Bill-SOCAL
01-15-2008, 07:53 PM
Here's a couple of shots of my TS2 conversion. Hopefully get it wet this weekend

http://www.scaleaerobatics.org/TS2-1.JPG

http://www.scaleaerobatics.org/TS2-2.JPG

ice329
01-18-2008, 09:28 AM
Some good info http://boatdesign.net/articles/tunnel-hull-design/index.htm

Darin Jordan
01-18-2008, 03:52 PM
Ice... Looks cool!

How do you currently have it setup??? Prop?? Motor shaft position and angle??? Balance point??

ice329
01-18-2008, 04:00 PM
I am waiting on a prop, will start with the X642. Motor angle isnt set yet but I will start out even. The balance point is very close to the 9 1/2" mark prob more like 9 3/4. Gonna use two 7.4V 5350 MaH Lipos. Gonna start with this. I dont race I just like to have something that I could if I felt like it. Well see what happens... Almost tested it today with just a CF42, its all I have that fits right now.

Darin Jordan
01-18-2008, 04:13 PM
I am waiting on a prop, will start with the X642. Motor angle isnt set yet but I will start out even. The balance point is very close to the 9 1/2" mark prob more like 9 3/4. Gonna use two 7.4V 5350 MaH Lipos. Gonna start with this. I dont race I just like to have something that I could if I felt like it. Well see what happens... Almost tested it today with just a CF42, its all I have that fits right now.

Sounds like a good place to start... Let me know how that 642 works out...

What brand of batteries do you have that are 5350mah???

ice329
01-19-2008, 09:40 AM
Did you guys GPS these boats with the SV power plant.

Darin Jordan
01-19-2008, 09:46 AM
Did you guys GPS these boats with the SV power plant.

We did initially.... Best I got was 38mph... but that was on a setup that would go for 10-laps (just barely... batteries were VERY close to the danger point... :doh: )...

We've since upped the prop size, and started refining things a bit... I'm betting we'll be into the 40s with this setup this season...

Then we'll see what a Modified setup will do ;)... 4S in a Tommy Lee/Rod Geraghty hull with a Neu 1515 and Hydra 240... :w00t: Might be SCAREY!!

ice329
01-19-2008, 10:45 AM
I may have condemed the SV radio syatem a bit early. I was concerned firstly because of the glitch, that is serious. I was thinking because of how I had to run the antenna and motor power wires etc, that the AM radio was picking up motor current or the higher Volts of the Lipo's etc were causeing the glitch and it may have been. I swaped the radio to a PM3 and moved the reciever back to my original thought out spot, it just eliminates having to run things all together. I place the batterys in the PM3 and they were practically dead, so this may have also caused the glitch in the SV radio syatem. At any rate the TS2 should be good to go again. It real cold out but I may still run her today.

Something else I reolized while reading the manual. My fitting I used for strearing are actually the fitting they sent for the the throtal linkage if you used a gas motor. Not sure if they will hold up but I like how they fit and they are strong so we will see, it sure make it look clean. I am a big fan of clean and open, I hate clutter.

ice329
01-20-2008, 11:24 AM
Slight bobble number 2. I went with the Dubro mount. If I did it again I would have went with the other one the guys are using. I ran the boat yesterday with a CF42, I wasnt getting enough lift on the nose so I went positive as far as the mount would allow. Still not enough. I turned the mount upside down and get more adjustment but now the motor just looks a tad high. I have no adjustment down if I need it. Ya I can remount it. Just sayine if you do one of these conversions go with the other mount or keep this in mind when mounting the dubro. I got a X642 yesterday, so even though its 34 deg here I will still be making at least one run.

PS This thing turns on a dime and is incradably stable. Freakin thing is awsom.

ice329
01-20-2008, 01:41 PM
I know you guys already did all this... but... I ran mine today, new Bal/shapened X642 and the reversed mount. I bet I picked up 10 MPH but the motor is no doubt to high. I cant hold the boat in the corners, I can but not like I should. I will reset the mount and give her another try. Got a 2" chop on the pond today, the stability is unreal. The stock SV servo works fine, I have to tone it down because it seems to responsive.

ice329
01-20-2008, 05:19 PM
I lowered the motor. seemed better but as I am running I am saying something isnt right.. I must have said 5 times during the run. After the run I open the hatches and check, everything is bone dry. I wipe the boat down, nice and dry. I see water? I open the black drain plug. The boat is full of water..... At least 7 or 8 ounces .... hummm I did not cut the deck to mount for the boxes. I did not screw anything into the deck or hull. What the H_LL??? I tore the boat down. I filled the bath tub up. Dunked the entire boat. Bubbles from the motor mount holes. Taped them up. Dunked the boat, check up and down. No bubbles. Must have been the motor mounts, has to be even though there above the waterline. So I will remedy the bobble and retry.

Before I tore the boat down I make a call to Hobbico, there customer service is definatly good. They were gonna honor the hull possable problem even past the 3 months and were gonna let me keep the cowl with Mickey on it.

crazzy maxx
01-20-2008, 10:12 PM
check the water cooling...

MOTOboat
01-21-2008, 12:01 PM
Darin,

What length of hull is your woodstuff?

I have a 32" Woodstuff I was thinking of using instead of the TS2.. Initially I thought the WS would be too heavy but it is an awsome handling hull with a 3.5 KB SS. Just a little underpowered as my motor is stock.

I acutally find the Supreme FE more fun to drive (Sport only) as you never quite know if it is going to flip.

I look forward to your results.

MOTOboat

Darin Jordan
01-21-2008, 12:20 PM
Darin,

What length of hull is your woodstuff?

Mine is 28"... It's kind of a tight squeeze to get everything inside it, but I managed... Haven't tested it yet... but I anticipate it going fine with the SV27 setup on there...

32" might be a tad big for the SV27 setup...

MOTOboat
01-21-2008, 12:35 PM
I have a 1515 1.5 & 1Y I had for building a TS2 FE... but have been looking at the Woodstuff thinking of converting it to a FE.

This is just for fun running. I enjoy the building... I just hate to disassemble the Nitro setup...

But the truth is I seldom use it and it is kindof under powered.

MOTOboat

Darin Jordan
01-21-2008, 01:03 PM
I have a 1515 1.5 & 1Y I had for building a TS2 FE... but have been looking at the Woodstuff thinking of converting it to a FE.



I think the 1515 1Y has a lot of potential on that 32" tunnel with 4S1P power... or 4S2P if you can fit it... Might not be necessary to go 2P... if you get the new Elite 4500 30C cells, they should be able to handle 1P fine if you don't overprop it...

That'd be a fast combo...

MOTOboat
01-21-2008, 01:09 PM
Probally a lot better choice than trying to keep the TS2 on the water?

Darin Jordan
01-21-2008, 01:46 PM
Probally a lot better choice than trying to keep the TS2 on the water?

In my opinion, YES... We've tried the TS-2 with the AMMO 2300KV motor and it was FAST... but the handling wasn't great... not great at all...

MOTOboat
01-22-2008, 10:12 AM
Might the 1.5Y be a better choice for the larger boat with a 5 or 6S?

I should weigh the two bare hulls for curiosity.

I'd prefer to stick with 4S as that is what I have, just unsure about the 1Y

Dave

Darin Jordan
01-22-2008, 11:53 AM
I'd prefer to stick with 4S as that is what I have, just unsure about the 1Y

Dave


I believe the 1Y is 2200KV... on 4S, which is about 16V under load... that's about 35,000RPM... That is an excellent motor for a P-Sport or P-Mono... so I don't see why it wouldn't be equally as good on a TS-2 or other 3.5 tunnel...

I have that same motor and fully intend on using it on my 29" Lee/Geraghty tunnel I'm working on, using 4S... I expect it to be a rocket!

I'd suggest you give it a try, then decide... I've seen a TS-2 on the AMMO motor, and it was a rocket... This motor is WAY more capable, so it should make that hull go ballistic... :w00t:

properchopper
01-24-2008, 02:51 PM
A few more tweaks and she's ready for trials. Added some mods of my own : Made the radio box removeable, fastens with stainless screws. Extended battery floor to simplify CG adjustments. Placed servo in back & used low profile servo to keep linkages short to eliminate flex. Made custom servo arm for motor to keep alignment simple. Smoked acrylic covers just for the hell of it. Using Lipo Saver to protect battery. Should get 'er wet in a few days. Fun build, but kinda like building a "ship in a bottle " :huh:

Darin Jordan
01-24-2008, 03:26 PM
Looks good Tony... the wiring exits look kind of familiar... ;)

From this point forward, all of my servos will go either WAY in the front, or WAY in the back, as you've done here... It's MUCH easier to work with the center section completely clear of hard mounted parts and steering gear...

It's really nice to see this class reviving the way it is... I really hope this trend continues! :thumbup:

properchopper
01-24-2008, 03:47 PM
Like I said before, this is all your fault :bash: ; How do you sleep at night ? :biggrin:

Darin Jordan
01-24-2008, 03:56 PM
Like I said before, this is all your fault :bash: ; How do you sleep at night ? :biggrin:


:laugh:

Just like with the SV27 class we created for our "overglorified club race" last summer... I don't mind at all being blamed for people having TOO MUCH FUN!! :w00t:

properchopper
01-25-2008, 12:48 PM
Should I install the recovery pads ? What's the "conventional wisdom" on these critters ?

Bill-SOCAL
01-25-2008, 01:05 PM
The instructions say to use them if you need them. If the boat hooks badly, then installing the pads may help. If it doesn't then you don't really need them. This is according to Jerry Dunlap, they guy who designed the boat. Bottom right of Page 13 talks about the recovery pads.

Darin Jordan
01-25-2008, 01:12 PM
The instructions say to use them if you need them. If the boat hooks badly, then installing the pads may help. If it doesn't then you don't really need them. This is according to Jerry Dunlap, they guy who designed the boat. Bottom right of Page 13 talks about the recovery pads.

We raced with Jerry in October and he recommended we use them... so we are all using the recovery pads... they are needed and help a lot in the corners...... Additionally... my Tommy Lee/Geraghty tunnel has them built in... the Lynx has them built in... and my WoodStuff 3.5 comes with them as well... I'd recommend using them...

properchopper
01-25-2008, 01:18 PM
Thanks, Darin. I have them trued & painted & ready to install, just wanted to check before attatching. :)

Fast Guy
01-27-2008, 09:28 AM
I found the recovery pads made a big difference also. I would say use them.

properchopper
01-27-2008, 11:40 AM
Modded [ thanks Darin;) ] recovery pads installed. Boat ready for water. May have to test in the rain :cursing:

Darin Jordan
01-27-2008, 05:21 PM
Modded [ thanks Darin;) ] recovery pads installed. Boat ready for water. May have to test in the rain :cursing:

Looks like you are ready to go, Tony! Nice work! Get a GPS in there and let's hear how the testing went...

Rain??? Dude... it's a BOAT!! :laugh: Of course, I live in Washington... I'd have to say that to stay SANE!! :w00t:

properchopper
01-27-2008, 08:54 PM
Rain??? Dude... it's a BOAT!! :laugh:

I'm not worried about the BOAT getting wet ; It's my damn hairdo ! lol [check out before and after boating in the rain ! :doh: ]

properchopper
01-29-2008, 10:34 PM
All I can say is WOW !!! Ran perfectly trimmed out at 9.5 " CG. Flew on calm water & handled race/chop like a champ [ the gassers were practicing for a race]. Cornered like a dream & left the Supervees floating upside down :banana:
Went from 442 to a P215 to a 642. Loved the 642 & temps were so low I didn't bother with the temp guage ! Servo was weak, will free up the linkages/volt it up/ or replace with higher torque unit. THANKS, Bro !:rockon2:

SJFE
01-29-2008, 11:07 PM
Awesome man. Mine is 90% done. I am out of time to build untill the 5th now so it will be the 9th before I can get it in the water.

properchopper
01-29-2008, 11:46 PM
Thanks !! You'll love this boat; plus it has that "scale look " that we both like. BTW, I noticed that you spaced your motor up so the coupler wouldn't hit the outdrive [ I assume that's why you did it]. I had the same problem : the coupler was right against the motor, bottomed on the shaft & was right up against the top of the drive.. To avoid spacing the motor up & raising the CG I shortened the motor shaft a little on the ole' bench grinder [shielded the bearing to keep grit away from it] , allowing it to be higher on the shaft. Your motor is taller, you might give this a try to keep the CG down some. I know Darin's the man with the plan here, but if I can help in any way let me know.

properchopper
01-29-2008, 11:49 PM
Servo was weak, will free up the linkages/volt it up/ or replace with higher torque unit.

Just freed up the servo linkages some & it seems much better !:biggrin:

Darin Jordan
01-29-2008, 11:49 PM
Servo was weak, will free up the linkages/volt it up/ or replace with higher torque unit. THANKS, Bro !:rockon2:

You're welcome! That's awesome....

Servo... Do youself a favour (all of you) and spend the money on at LEAST a 90 in/lb torque servo... Hitec HS645-MG or equivalent is what the Nitro guys use... A LOT of handling issues can be solved by simply doing this...

By the way... Tony... I TOLD YOU SO!! FUN, EH!??? :w00t:

Darin Jordan
01-29-2008, 11:51 PM
To avoid spacing the motor up & raising the CG I shortened the motor shaft a little on the ole' bench grinder

That's exactly what I did... Actually... I've shorted the shafts on every motor I own... They are usually at least 3/16" or so too long... ON the SV27 motor, I trim it about to the flat... maybe a tad further... Keeping that steering block sealed really helps with maintaining the lubrication on the shaft...

properchopper
01-29-2008, 11:52 PM
..

By the way... Tony... I TOLD YOU SO!! FUN, EH!??? :w00t:

I just can't stop smilin' !!!:bounce:

properchopper
02-02-2008, 12:43 AM
Here's how she looks with some simple graphics. Needed something bold to see her better on the course :biggrin:

Bill-SOCAL
02-02-2008, 01:04 AM
How DARE you get an orange one!!!!! I have the exclusive rights to that color!! I'll have to contact Tower to issue you a refund and send you a nice white one!!!

properchopper
02-02-2008, 02:18 AM
How DARE you get an orange one!!!!! I have the exclusive rights to that color!! I'll have to contact Tower to issue you a refund and send you a nice white one!!!

My boat is red. White was my first choice but no longer available.

CarolHazlett
02-21-2008, 01:37 PM
Darin, which prop are you using? Since this is the SV27 set up I was going to use either a 42/55 or 440/3. I noticed most of the people are using 642's. Do I need to go prop shopping? Tell me soon so I can get one polished and balanced before our first race.:blush:

Ctonez
02-21-2008, 05:53 PM
Carol, you'll probably want a 642 in your prop box anyway.
I currently have my 642 mounted on the tunnel, as my 2 42x55's are on the LSH (SV27 power) and my SV27Spec boat, since those 2 classes have a spec'ed prop.

As far as I know, we haven't spec'ed a prop for Tunnel, and even though this gives certain club members an advantage, I prefer we keep it open.
Sounds like the X642 is a great starting point to me.
This class is gonna be alot of fun!

Darin Jordan
02-21-2008, 11:01 PM
Darin, which prop are you using? Since this is the SV27 set up I was going to use either a 42/55 or 440/3. I noticed most of the people are using 642's. Do I need to go prop shopping? Tell me soon so I can get one polished and balanced before our first race.:blush:

A 642 would be a good place to start... Might actually be too much pitch... I haven't used one so I'm not sure...

I used a 440/3 with good results...

Each prop seems to have plusses and minusses on these tunnels... getting a good balance between speed and handling is going to require some setup time... I don't really know which one is "best"... I'm still playing with it...

The SV27 motor is a fairly low RPM setup with gobs of torque... It seems to like diameter and blade-area... How you combine those I'll leave up to you for now... Some things are best discovered through trial and error, and I can't give up ALL the secrets just yet! :spy: I've already told Corey too much, and now he's whooping my butt every chance he gets! :unsure:

CarolHazlett
02-25-2008, 11:02 PM
Darin, I noticed on your motor mount that you did not use a spacer plate. Did you cut your shaft instead? If you did, did that leave very much of a flat for the collet set screw? I am using the same REK mount from Ray Fuller that you are.:help:

Darin Jordan
02-25-2008, 11:10 PM
Darin, I noticed on your motor mount that you did not use a spacer plate. Did you cut your shaft instead? If you did, did that leave very much of a flat for the collet set screw? I am using the same REK mount from Ray Fuller that you are.:help:


Carol,

Yes... I trimmed the motor shaft length down just to the beginning of the flat... I then extended the flat a tad up the shaft...

Another method that I've seen used and looks very clean is to use The spacer shown in the attached picture and is made by Integy for a Clod Buster. I saw this done on another site (thanks Jim!) and it makes some sense... though I prefer to keep the weight as LOW as possible...

Hope this helps...

properchopper
02-26-2008, 12:47 AM
Carol, I ran into the same situation. I taped up the motor to keep grit out of the bearing & ground the shaft shorter with the 'ole bench grinder. Did re-file the flat a little longer as well. I'm with Darin on keeping the CG as low as possible. I didn't feel too bad doing this on the SV27 motor, but grinding on a Neu may feel a little sacriligeous !

CarolHazlett
02-28-2008, 11:38 AM
After seeing the different options I think I will go with the added spacer. Since my hubby has a milling machine he can make the spacer. I chose this way so I could easily replace my motor with a spare at the pond if "stuff" happens during a race. If Bill uses aluminum for the spacer it should be fairly light in weight.:tongue_smilie:

ice329
03-03-2008, 09:53 PM
Ran my TS2 today. I tell ya its so stable it seems slow. hahah after all that building...ahhhhh yaaaaaa its ok...hahha I put it up and grabed one of my SV's and had some fun....

I think I may have to readjust the weight a bit, it seems a little nose heavy. Maybe after I adjust it some more I will like it better...

Darin Jordan
03-03-2008, 10:26 PM
Ran my TS2 today. I tell ya its so stable it seems slow. hahah after all that building...ahhhhh yaaaaaa its ok...hahha I put it up and grabed one of my SV's and had some fun....

I think I may have to readjust the weight a bit, it seems a little nose heavy. Maybe after I adjust it some more I will like it better...

ICE... Make it LOOSE! The recommended settings in the instructions are too tight for the SV27 setup... Push the motor down some and get that thing running on the very backs of the sponsons... You should be able to approach 40 with it (37-38mph) after some tuning and with the right prop... and depending on which cells you are using (weight is a factor...)...

They are the most fun when racing closely together! NOT so stable then!!

ice329
03-03-2008, 10:34 PM
I have to loosen it up. I am a fan of running loose. I have to do some alterations...heheh to get it there. I was using the X642 and the Batterys are real nice its just I tryed to keep the original box and house the packs in there but Its just to much up front. I have to rebiuld that whole thing... uggg Just not in the mood. Maybe the next rainy week. In the mean time I will drop the motor a little and trim it up.

ALSO I want the motor bracket you guys got... I shouldnt have cheaped out with the dubro... what is the name of yours.

FinzUp
03-09-2008, 11:11 PM
Hello Darin I just picked up a Top Speed 2 and have been reading your thread. Have you run the REK unit yet and if so how did it work? I have a friend that also just got one and we both are all about SPEED and FE Boats. Can you help us out with some heads up? Thanks Bill G. AKA FinzUp

Fast Guy
03-10-2008, 08:17 AM
Read all of Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion and here is a build I did. Brushless Top Speed 2 (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853&highlight=brushless+top+speed+2) Should answer most of your questions.

justneedspeed
03-10-2008, 04:30 PM
fastguy what kind of outrunner are you using i like that look alot?Also could you post a link if you have one? I cant seem to find it. Thanks

FinzUp
03-10-2008, 05:11 PM
Read all of Darin's Top Speed 2 FE Conversion and here is a build I did. Brushless Top Speed 2 (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853&highlight=brushless+top+speed+2) Should answer most of your questions.

:rockon2: Thanks for the info we will go & wear it out :banana:

Fast Guy
03-10-2008, 06:34 PM
fastguy what kind of outrunner are you using i like that look alot?Also could you post a link if you have one? I cant seem to find it. Thanks

I'm not sure if by outrunner you mean the lower as the motor is from a SuperVee and it is an inrunner. The lower leg is an REK from Fullers Fast Electrics

SuperVee Motor (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-aqug7000)

Carbon Outboard Lower. (http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm#carbonoutboard)

justneedspeed
03-10-2008, 08:12 PM
The outboard runner, thanks man that helped alot

CarolHazlett
03-11-2008, 09:45 AM
Did anybody else use the complete Ray Fuller's outboard kit? I mounted mine and used the the swivel plate and shims that came with it and had no trouble getting my prop level and at the right height according to the TS2 setup instructions in the manual, but that leaves the steering arms below the transom. I changed my 3/16 motor spacer from one under the motor to one between the motor mount and lower unit and cleared the transom a little bit but I will still have to use ball links or something to bring my steering linkage high enough to make a working connecion to the servo. Has anybody else encountered this or do I have an unseen major screw-up going on? What did others do? Thanx ahead.:help:

CarolHazlett
03-11-2008, 10:04 AM
Here are pics of what I was talking about earlier. One shows my mounting. The centerline of the prop is 1/8 inch from the bottom of the sponsons when it is in a completely nuetral position as per directions but you can see in the other picture this leaves the steering arms below the transom. A 3/16 spacer only gives a very marginal clearance over the transom.

properchopper
03-11-2008, 10:20 AM
Here's what I did. Made the aluminum plate to keep the stress off the composite ears. Get a high torque servo !

Darin Jordan
03-11-2008, 11:21 AM
Carol,

Here is what I did... If you intend to use that stock REK mount, I think you may want to think about lopping the top off of that mounting section there at the back... I think there is wood structure underneath... I've seen others cut it down then just cap it with a piece of ply... I never considered these clearance problems because all of the mounts I use have backset...

If you don't want to cut on the hull... maybe go get yourself a Dubro 3.5 mount, which will set the motor back a tad and give you some steering clearance... and better handling... ;)

Looking at your pics again... I'd say just trim down the top of the transom cap and glue a piece of ply on... that should get you the turning clearance you need... Kind of like the second pics of Fast Guy's yellow TS-2 shown on the first page of this thread... ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/NitroFlash/RC%20Boats/TS2001BatBox.jpg )

ice329
03-30-2008, 09:31 AM
After I install the new jack plate I want to give the the TS2 with SV guts another try without moving the battery box... I think I will get more adjustment. Used a X642 the first trys and actually thought there might be a better choice of props. Anyone can suggeat one that will keep the nose up better. Maybe some type of 3 blade or...?

If this dont work then I will just have to tear into rebuilding the boxes so I can move the packs back farther.

pmisuinas
04-12-2008, 07:57 AM
Well, I have a really basic question since I can't seem to find it searching on my own...

Where did you guys get your outboards? The only thing I can find is the Aquacraft EP-1 and Graupner--is this what you are using with different motors? TIA...Pete M

FinzUp
04-12-2008, 05:52 PM
Well, I have a really basic question since I can't seem to find it searching on my own...

Where did you guys get your outboards? The only thing I can find is the Aquacraft EP-1 and Graupner--is this what you are using with different motors? TIA...Pete M
:zip-up: try this link as it is a REK unit for 89.99 fuller Hardware
http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm
:rockon2: The rest is up to you :confused2: Also follow all the Build links
Good luck.

pmisuinas
04-12-2008, 06:20 PM
Thanks, much appreciated...Pete M

calcagno45
05-05-2008, 09:55 AM
Darin, in this picture, can you tell me what sizes of tubing did you use? Thanks

Darin Jordan
05-05-2008, 12:56 PM
Darin, in this picture, can you tell me what sizes of tubing did you use? Thanks


I don't really remember... I think the water lines are 5/32"... The three for the ESC wires are "big enough to fit the contacts w/ shrink through", and kind of the same deal on the steering... They were all just bits and pieces from my brass tubing box...

calcagno45
05-05-2008, 01:11 PM
ok thanks!! Im trying to win one on ebay, and if so Ill be following pretty much the setup

TRUNKMUNKY
05-09-2008, 04:25 AM
Did you get it? They are alot of fun to run,and fun to build.!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUteIPgYuAE Crappy video of mine.

calcagno45
05-09-2008, 09:18 AM
Nah, I got outbid.

smm_cbf
05-09-2008, 08:54 PM
is there a link for the adjustable mount? can't find it...

Stinger9D9
05-10-2008, 04:35 PM
I finally finished the orange TS2 I bought off the swap shop forum a couple of months back. (It was a bit of a challenge considering the state I received it in, but that's a different story for a different thread).

First off, here's the setup:

SV27 motor on a REK lower tilted up a bit to (try) and lift the nose, 70A ETTI ESC, Octura X440 2 blade and...12 IB 3600's

What a dismal failure.

It's WAY too heavy with nimh cells. The prop cavitated like crazy. The nose actually plowed down into the water at least once, and the water pickup was basically non functional because of the cavitation. I tried to lower the outboard a bit, then tried a graupner 40mm CF prop, neither made much difference.

So basically, it was slow (like 10-12mph), WAY too hot and tried to end it all by heading for Davy Jone's locker a couple of times. Let's just say, I ended that trip to the pond shortly after it started.

Ok, I know now that this setup is not even worth considering nimh's, Lipo's are a must.

My question is about prop selection, outboard depth and angle, what prop would be better? I think my overly aggressive upward angle contributed to the cavitation too, do you agree?

TRUNKMUNKY
05-10-2008, 10:09 PM
Maybe I can help.,you must have the lower unit set at the proper height,this will mean using the ts2 manual.Just use the biggest side of the stand it came with to set your boat on,then you can set the motor and lower unit height,..just make sure you use the wide side of the boat stand.

Stinger9D9
05-11-2008, 10:00 AM
Yeah, I think the motor was too low in the water, the prop was in too deep, and could not wind out. It started to get going, but looked like the motor just could not get the rpm needed to push the boat up on plane properly.

Has anyone had any success at all running one of these on nimh's? Or will I have to put it back on the shelf until the budget allows for a pair of those?

smm_cbf
05-11-2008, 01:49 PM
im sure it can get on to plan with cells. you might just have to find the right balance point, i might do a bby tunnel on 12 cells, but thats built for cells, so....

Stinger9D9
05-11-2008, 02:30 PM
Ok, I raised the motor up to get the bottom of the prop shaft 1/8" above the bottom of the sponsons, and also trimmed it to exactly neutral.

It's better, notceably faster (still pretty slow though), but it still runs REALLY wet. I still don't think the motor is hitting full rpm.

I think I read somewhere that the SV motor likes to be a bit higher out of the water than the recommended 1/8" above the sponsons. I'll need to slot out the dubro mount a bit to get the lower unit higher up.

The motor ran really hot again. I think a better water jacket is in order as well.

smm_cbf
05-12-2008, 05:01 PM
anybody know where to get the mount? looks perfect for my next build

Stinger9D9
05-12-2008, 08:17 PM
anybody know where to get the mount? looks perfect for my next build

Check way back on post #48 of this thread.

TRUNKMUNKY
05-13-2008, 04:40 AM
It was mother's day and after taking mom out to dinner she spied the boats already loaded in the back of the truck and asked to go with me to run them.I was like,you really want to go run boats?Instant camera man,and she was really curious as to the tech part of the whole thing,so I let her run the camera and explained the basics of rc boating as I went along,being a retired scientist from Corning,she quickly grasped the concept and was having as much fun as I was.Amazing woman for sure.I can see why dad married her.I raised up the motor quarter inch above recomended height and had much better handling as a result,ran cooler too.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S7kvSJLiJU

Stinger9D9
05-14-2008, 08:51 PM
Wow, so that's 3/8" above the bottom of the sponsons? I never would have thought to try it that high.

There's no denying that it's running well in that video though.

I installed my threaded inserts too low. I'll have to add another set of 4 just above them to get the lower unit any higher. It is doable though.

Stinger9D9
05-19-2008, 02:50 PM
Ok, well here are the changes:

- moved the motor up until the prop shaft was 1/4" above the bottom of the boat
- changed the motor...I'm pretty sure the used SV motor I picked up a while ago on the Swap Shop forum was bad (after the puff of smoke that came out of it):sad:
- changed to a detongued X642 prop
- re-peaked the packs (they are still a bit flat from sitting around all winter)
- increased water pickup diameter and tygon tubing all around

Now the results:

It ran a TON better, MUCH cooler, just a bit too slow, and way too wet. Although the CofG is exactly 9 1/2" from the stern, it runs like it's nose heavy. I haven't trimmed the motor up at all yet.

Also, it hooked pretty bad in the turns despite the fact that it has recovery pads.

In all though, it was a successful (though unexciting) trip to the pond, and, like I always say, I'd rather be bored than frustrated.

Darin Jordan
05-19-2008, 02:57 PM
Guys... Just like any other hull-type running a surface drive setup... the boat is going to attempt to run down the centerline of the prop... Therefore, the deeper you run it, the "looser" the back of the boat will get...

In other words, when you lower the drive DOWN, you raise the hull up out of the water more... Conversely, when you raise UP the drive, you lower the hull in the water...

Your TS-2 should run really well with the drive about 1/8" or so above the setup board, with a slight angled up shaft angle. This is assuming a 42mm or so prop...

It'll be a little loose, but then, this is a tunnel... it's not suppose to run tight, but rather on the very backs of the sponsons...

Don't try to get all of the nose up using the lower unit angle... It should air out well at speed... Too much shaft angle will cause it to bounce at speed....

Expect about 38mph or so from a well tuned setup that can actually be raced through the turns.... Like I said, it'll be loose... you'll have to drive it... but that's about what you'll get...

Stinger9D9
05-19-2008, 05:19 PM
Thanks Darin,

So back when I ran it the first time out (with the motor much lower...maybe too low) it probably ran so poorly because of a combination of a bad motor and flat cells (first time out after winter).

Here are some pics of today's run:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~jgrant28/TS2_001.jpg http://home.cogeco.ca/~jgrant28/TS2_002.jpg
http://home.cogeco.ca/~jgrant28/TS2_003.jpg http://home.cogeco.ca/~jgrant28/TS2_004.jpg
http://home.cogeco.ca/~jgrant28/TS2_005.jpg

Also, here's a video of today's run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0delTLbB5VU

You can see it hook in the corner when it comes in close. It hooked a bit worse farther in the distance. It's also running really wet, but with the windy conditions, that was probably a good thing.

I also found that the servo is too weak (wouldn't readily pull out of turns at times), but that's an easy fix.

So next time out, I'll drop the motor down to 1/8" above the board, and angle the motor up about oh...say 2 degrees?

calcagno45
05-19-2008, 09:38 PM
What servo were you running? as far as torque?

Looks good tho!

Stinger9D9
05-19-2008, 09:48 PM
I was just using the servo that came with the Hitec FM radio...an HS-322. I didn't expect much of it.

After reading back a couple of pages of this thread, I'm going with Darin's advice of a Hitec HS-645MG. It'll be a direct replacement, and since it's equivalent to what the nitro guys use, it'll do the trick just fine.

calcagno45
05-19-2008, 10:57 PM
Looks great! Nice action pics too!! Digital SLR?

Ok. I have pretty much the same, Hitec 325, thats I was intending on using. I guess I'll change that option out.

I have a 28" MRP Tunnel hull that I'm building for scale looks. I'm painting up and stickering an Aquacraft EP1 to look like a Merc 300 o/b. (maybe 2.5 instead) to use on there. I am using the SV27 motor/controller in it. I know the EP1 might not have the same performance as the REK o/b but I'm going for scale looks, (that first impression of D@mn!).

Stinger9D9
05-26-2008, 09:00 PM
Well, at least it doesn't sink...

I took the boat out a couple of times this weekend. The first time with the prop shaft at 1/8" up, and angled at 1 degree. It ran well enough, just still a bit slow.

The next day, I angled the motor up to 3 degrees, then slow charged (1/10C) up 13 IB 4200 cells (I had a single "booster cell" wired up). The boat took off across the pond well enough, I turned it back toward me, and as soon as I went to turn in front of me it hooked, but now with the speed it had, it flipped.

I wasn't sure if it would stay afloat, and was preparing to watch it sink away forever. (I will never swim after a boat). The good news is, it floats great upside down, the bad news is, the receiver got soaked (the ETTI esc is crazy waterproof, so it was fine). The trip to the pond was over in about 1 minute and I never got a decent chance to see how it ran.

My real question is this video:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=kfEg7NWz5lw&feature=related

Is this guy really hitting 40 mph with only 3S? I know it looks like it could be 40mph, but the question is, is this possible with the setup he is describing? It doesn't seem like he'd get the prop speed needed.

TRUNKMUNKY
05-27-2008, 01:10 PM
I like to be able to turn my boat,I guess if I just wanted to go as fast as possible I'd just throw the biggest motor on there I could find and a hv esc, crank the motor down, and get ready to go fishing alot.Anyone notice how some of these tunnel hulls are nicely bowed on the bottom,makes setup fun.I started keeping a setup logbook for my boats,with cause and effect.I found what works for some,didn't always work for me,and vise versa.

ice329
11-11-2008, 10:21 PM
This thread is responsable for me needing to do a TS2.... I saw Darin doing one and needed one to. I finally finished or should I say refinished it. This time I think she is right. First time around I had to much weight forward and could not adjust it and the servo was not strong enough and I did not like how the stearing was set up. Took care of all of that and also put a better jack plate from the capt. Thanks to a few people on this forum for info and parts, I finally finished her again. I will be giving her a test tomarrow with a 1740-3..we will see what happens

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/IMG_2197.jpg


http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/IMG_2200.jpg

properchopper
11-11-2008, 11:13 PM
Good luck & bon voyage, Joey. With a little dialing in, this boat is FUN ! Let us know how she does :rockon2:

SLAUGHTER_AUS
11-12-2008, 12:03 AM
What type of outboard leg are you guys using on those?
That is the only type that seems to work?

Ub Hauled
11-12-2008, 01:30 AM
There are a few option one can use, there is the:

REK lower unit (some sorta plastic) +- 100
Lawless lower unit (aluminum I believe) +-150
Angle Drive +- 100 (aluminum)

ice329
11-12-2008, 12:53 PM
Oh yaaa Much better.... I got some adjusting to do but overall its like night and day. One little problem, I hooked it a few times. Probly a little adjustment. The next thing, the prop did suck some ait a few times, I had the feather the throtal and regrab the prop. The batteries got to 129 degrees so...not sure how warm I should let them get, there 5350 7.4 Poly RC packs. I will try a differnt prop next before I make any adjustments, going with the 1742-3 next.

properchopper
11-12-2008, 01:05 PM
Keep the steering dual-rate trim at a minimum; just enough to carve the bouys on a 1/6 mile course. Ive found that a plain 'ole X442 works great, but a X642 for racing gets going faster but draws more amps [ OK for a 2-minute race on 5000+ mah]. Fun stuff, eh ? :rockon2:

Darin Jordan
11-12-2008, 01:19 PM
I will try a differnt prop next before I make any adjustments, going with the 1742-3 next.

You might want to rethink your prop choices... Aren't the 17-series "lifting" props?? You don't need that...

I've had the best luck using ABC 42x55 or 45x55, or a Prather 225, or, Like Tony has suggested... the X642 or X645... Just watch your runtime and temps...

ice329
11-12-2008, 01:33 PM
The reason I went to try the 1740-3 and 1742-3 is because my first set up I didnt like so I called Octura and we talked on how to fix the problem but ultimatly it was the set up, so I will at least try the 1742-3, I also got a 4 bladed prop to try but I also will try the x642 and which ever one I like the best is what I will stick with. Since I dont race I kinda stick to the prop I like for my pond. If not there will be a few 17 series props up on swap...

I will tune down the stearing trim.

I wish I could get more choppy water going, they handle so good.... when I get her dialed in I will take a little vid. Thanks for the info

ice329
11-12-2008, 03:09 PM
When your right, your right. The 1742-3 is not a good choice either. Wicked fast when you can get the prop to grab, but overall not a good choice. Both the 1740-3 and the 1742-3 will but up later on the swap shap... gonna go with my favorite SV prop next and I am thinking it will be the one... X642 next up

ice329
11-13-2008, 04:38 PM
The X642 is definatly the best choice of the props I have here to try. Still gonna give the 4 blade a shot after I balance it. I still think there may be a better choice then the X. I will do a little adjusting with the X642 and see if I can get it like I like it. The problem I see right now is this hull handles so good the SV power system may not be enough to make it hairy like I like it.

Darin Jordan
11-13-2008, 05:00 PM
The problem I see right now is this hull handles so good the SV power system may not be enough to make it hairy like I like it.

You don't have it setup right then! :tt2:

Put a Prather 230 or Prather 235 on there... Then get back to us about it not being "hairy like you like it"... ;)

ice329
11-13-2008, 05:56 PM
Hehehe like I said I got a little tinkering to do.. Got rain forcasted tomarrow, but I will try those props to I am easy..

Darin Jordan
11-13-2008, 06:01 PM
Hehehe like I said I got a little tinkering to do..

You may need to trim back the cav plate to fit the 235... the 230 MIGHT fit...

Hang on!

OH, and REDUCE your runtime and watch your temps... Your boat needs to be dialed and running loose to run those props without desoldering a connection or worse... My batteries started to get warm with that setup... but I won the races... :D


Got rain forcasted tomarrow, but I will try those props to I am easy.

You are driving a BOAT.... What, are you afraid it might get WET??? :doh: :tt2:

crazzy maxx
11-13-2008, 06:01 PM
threads very help full lol
now all i need is parts:thinking:

ice329
11-13-2008, 09:06 PM
I like tinkering but also like the short cut of asking they guys who did it already...hehe Here is the new adjustment. For some reason I still feel the motor should be lower. Anyway I never did one so if something is wrong go ahead and laugh but just point it out so I can go fix it... What you think of where it is placed now. Trimmed enough or what should I adj.

Propchopper you see your handy work.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/IMG_2204.jpg

j.m.
11-13-2008, 09:18 PM
I think you guys would be much happier with these legs:
http://hyperprod.bizhosting.com/3_5_angle_drive.html

properchopper
11-14-2008, 12:26 AM
I like tinkering but also like the short cut of asking they guys who did it already...hehe Here is the new adjustment. For some reason I still feel the motor should be lower. Anyway I never did one so if something is wrong go ahead and laugh but just point it out so I can go fix it... What you think of where it is placed now. Trimmed enough or what should I adj.

Propchopper you see your handy work.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/IMG_2204.jpg

Here's the adjustment that works for me with a X442 or X642; before I raised it up higher vertically & trimmed the angle down the boat porpoised wildly in the turns; now corners flat. {A little weight in the nose helped too} This TS-2 had the bottom reworked by Darin, SJFE & I finished it up. Notice the sponson curves up a little at the rear; byproduct of not totally trueing the bottom. Also note the Hyperformance Angle Drive; just got it today from Randy. It's gonna' take some serious work to set it up for electric.
Also I've been researching discussions on the distance between the pivot pin & the rear sponson tip; conventional wisdom seems to say [ along with Grimracer's instructions with the VS-1] that too far back & oversteer [spinouts] occur. For the VS-1 I'm foregoing that sexy jack plate & using a simple, closer to the transom mount to induce some understeer [slide] through the turns.

mtgoat
11-14-2008, 08:38 AM
Also I've been researching discussions on the distance between the pivot pin & the rear sponson tip; conventional wisdom seems to say [ along with Grimracer's instructions with the VS-1] that too far back & oversteer [spinouts] occur. For the VS-1 I'm foregoing that sexy jack plate & using a simple, closer to the transom mount to induce some understeer [slide] through the turns.

This is my thinking also. I've decided to go with the Dubro mount on my VS1 build for that reason. I was so tempted to go with the eye candy mount, but I really just want this boat to handle well.

BTW, properchopper, I am planning on copying your radiobox layout for my VS1 as shown on post 98 (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showpost.php?p=26114&postcount=98) of this thread, unless you suggest otherwise.

Here's a big THANKS to Darin, properchopper, Ice329 and others who've contributed their expertise in this thread. :tiphat:

j.m.
11-14-2008, 09:45 AM
All the angle drive needs is an electric motor mount.


You guys might like these for mounts:
http://hyperprod.bizhosting.com/3_5_outboard_motor_mount.html

ice329
11-14-2008, 11:24 AM
Humm your setup is a bit differnt then mine. Will give what I got a shot today then try the way your is.

I asked on one of these threads about the weight of the TS2 verses the VS1 I came accross the listed weight of the TS2, and it is quite a bit lighter at 2.125 lb verses 4 pounds of the new VS1

Length: 30 in (762mm)
Width: 11.5 in (292mm)
Height w/o engine: 5.75 in (146mm)
Weight (hull only): 34 oz (2.125 lb (964g)

Darin Jordan
11-14-2008, 11:30 AM
I came accross the listed weight of the TS2, and it is quite a bit lighter at 2.125 lb verses 4 pounds of the new VS1

Length: 30 in (762mm)
Width: 11.5 in (292mm)
Height w/o engine: 5.75 in (146mm)
Weight (hull only): 34 oz (2.125 lb (964g)

That's the RTR weight for the VS1... You are comparing it to the "hull only" weight for the TS-2...

The TS-2 RTR is going to be about 10oz heavier than the VS1... But I wouldn't let this bother you too much... Weight is NOT always a bad thing... Look at most of the Nitro Tunnel setups out there... They have lead taped to the sponson tips, etc...

properchopper
11-14-2008, 11:54 AM
All the angle drive needs is an electric motor mount.


You guys might like these for mounts:
http://hyperprod.bizhosting.com/3_5_outboard_motor_mount.html

I'm taking my time developing the mount configuration. I take seriously Grimracer's comments about avoiding oversteer [spinouts] so I want to get the pivot inside the rear sponson tips as much as possible. Here's some choices :
[ L to R ] : the jack plate pivot mount with the back adjustment ground off [ hate to sacrifice my spare, but..] , the Dubro modified by re-drilling the metal plates to move the pivot block closer to the transom, or the simple mount that came with , IIRC, the TS-2. #1 & #3 would use the angle shims that came with the TS-2 for tilt. I'm also ordering today the Hyperformance mount to see if it's the best choice, gambling $ 21.95 to find out.

ice329
11-14-2008, 12:27 PM
I am not worried, I just came accross it and figured I would post it. My boat weighs
5 lbs 12oz RTR that is with the packs in it.

j.m.
11-14-2008, 02:55 PM
Even if the hyperformance mount stick out too much, since it looks to be solid metal, you can grind a bunch off and drill and tap new holes.

Another idea would be to modify the boats to bring the mounts further in. Then you guys could keep your fancy mounts.

properchopper
11-14-2008, 03:35 PM
Even if the hyperformance mount stick out too much, since it looks to be solid metal, you can grind a bunch off and drill and tap new holes.

Another idea would be to modify the boats to bring the mounts further in. Then you guys could keep your fancy mounts.

The Hyperformance mount 'll be here tomorrow & then the sorting out begins.

The TS-2 could have the boat shortened to accomodate the longer mounts, but the VS-1 would be way more difficult - I already considered that idea but rejected it ; too much surgery on a wood boat.

Darin Jordan
11-14-2008, 03:42 PM
The TS-2 could have the boat shortened to accomodate the longer mounts, but the VS-1 would be way more difficult - I already considered that idea but rejected it ; too much surgery on a wood boat.


I used the Hi-Jack mount straight up on my TS-2 with the REK lower and it handled great... No issues at all... at least not up here in our water... It did act funny down in California at Lake Minden... but I think we sorted that out as needing a different prop for that water...

Different tunnel like different pivot pin locations... The TS-2 was designed to use the OS-Max motor, which has it's own mount assembly... Figure out where THAT pivot is located, and try to get as close to that a possible... Mine would up just like Tony's is, and both handle fine...

I'm betting the VS-1 is designed around using the OS lower as well, so it should have similiar mounting needs...

I wouldn't vary much from how Mike has her designed.... it's a proven race winner and a hell of a boat right out of the box... Just have to adjust the the battery load (extra weight)... but otherwise, leave it alone! ;)

Darin Jordan
11-14-2008, 03:46 PM
One more thing... I have a couple of the OS mounts at home... I can measure the distance from the plate to the pivot tonight... I'll post the measurement later...

properchopper
11-14-2008, 03:56 PM
One more thing... I have a couple of the OS mounts at home... I can measure the distance from the plate to the pivot tonight... I'll post the measurement later...

Cool ! - After reading some old posts by Z-man about Randy's first Hooter build & the instructions on the VS-1 I'm now more aware of the importance of this dimension.

ice329
11-14-2008, 04:30 PM
Rain didnt stop me today, had to take it out and see what the adjustments did. All I have to say is I am glad I didnt sell this boat. I will still fine tune things before the video but overall the boat is definalty close to being like I like it. Made some artificial waves in the pond by jumping on the corner of the pond boat, then took out the TS2 again. Definatly a fun boat. Thats it for now, I have to take the outboard apart and regrease it, this job I dont care for its a little bit of a PIA.

j.m.
11-15-2008, 01:20 AM
I would like to see someone put steps on a tunnel.

Only one set at the very back, but I think it should help air these hulls out even more.

Darin Jordan
11-15-2008, 02:07 AM
The distance from the base of the mounting plate to the center of the pivot pin on an OS-Max lower unit is 1/2"... 0.5"...

Hope this helps...

Darin Jordan
11-15-2008, 02:12 AM
I would like to see someone put steps on a tunnel.

Only one set at the very back, but I think it should help air these hulls out even more.

Steps in the tunnel would kill the lift... you want the tunnel to be a continous surface with minimal pressure changes. Steps in the sponsons, sure... but the tunnel needs to be a good airfoil, and good airfoils don't have steps...

The TS-2 already has steps on the ridepads, by the way... The FASTEST tunnels out there, however, don't... At least not that I've seen... (Lynx, Villian, WoodStuff, etc...)

properchopper
11-15-2008, 10:37 AM
The distance from the base of the mounting plate to the center of the pivot pin on an OS-Max lower unit is 1/2"... 0.5"...

Hope this helps...

Thanks. The Hyperformance mount should get here today; then decision time. Meanwhile I'm going to the lake for some fun !!

ice329
11-15-2008, 06:19 PM
Just for the record. I tryed a P741-4 today on the TS2. Although I was able to get it up and running fine, and it does work good it is very touchy and you suck air with any manuver other then gentle turns. Maybe if the motor was lowered but I will say this prop is out for the TS2. If you gun the throtal at a full stop the boat lunges into the air approximatly 6 to 8 feet, needless to say I was messing around, something I never do especially with this thing and I lunged it into the air and flipped it. My water proof box isnt so waterproof...heheh In a panic I flew out and got her. Lipo's got a touch of water but hopefully nothing serious, the rest of everything is fine. Gonna need to see how the water got in and test the lipos...they been sitting under a just warm hair dryer for a few hours...

j.m.
11-15-2008, 06:31 PM
Got any video of this?:w00t:

ice329
11-15-2008, 06:35 PM
No vids until I am proud of how its running.. maybe if it were a bloopers contest. Right now I am still not there with the set up.

ice329
11-17-2008, 03:31 PM
Well tinkered a lot today. I am still not actually totally happy. I cant get it loose as I like. This is a X642 prop. Maybe there is a better prop to get the back of the boat out of the water better also keeping the nose up. I fixed the water proof box last night... you know how I know? watch the last vid..hahah

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/?action=view&current=MVI_2235.flv

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/?action=view&current=MVI_2234.flv

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n103/ice0329/?action=view&current=MVI_2236.flv

Darin Jordan
11-17-2008, 03:36 PM
Maybe there is a better prop to get the back of the boat out of the water better also keeping the nose up.

Joey,

To accomplish this... push the drive deeper into the water... The lower the drive unit, the more it raises the boat out of the water... Use this in combination with the tilt to keep the nose up as well...

Also... guys in our club that race these are using Octura X447 props and they SCREAM... maybe try that...

ice329
11-17-2008, 03:46 PM
I cant get that prop on my outboard. The X642 is about a big a diamiter that will fit on my drive. I cant even fit the M445 unless I cut something. I tryed lowering the motor but it seemed like it was just slower. I have to figure a better prop. My CG is less then 9 1/2 its more like 8 3/4, I should be loose. Well anyway thanks for putting up with all the questions. I am TS2 ed out for a while. I think I am gonna try to make a SV with a outboard.

Darin Jordan
11-17-2008, 03:54 PM
I cant get that prop on my outboard. The X642 is about a big a diamiter that will fit on my drive. I cant even fit the M445 unless I cut something. I tryed lowering the motor but it seemed like it was just slower.

On my REK, I cut the cav plate off just far enough to clear the props I wanted to run. I put the water pickup on the back of the right sponson... let's you run ANY prop you want! ;)

And SV27 with an outboard sounds like a nightmare... It's already top-heavy...

crazzy maxx
11-17-2008, 05:09 PM
darin can u post a pic of the cut lower?
i just recived my ts2 hull and i want to order the fullers hw.
i have a octura x452 laying around...

Darin Jordan
11-17-2008, 08:16 PM
darin can u post a pic of the cut lower?
i just recived my ts2 hull and i want to order the fullers hw.
i have a octura x452 laying around...

I think an X452 might be a little much for an SV setup... Stick with an X447 max... or try a Prather 225 or 230, or an X645 or ABC 45x55... All work well depending on what you are after...

Here is the pic... Sorry for the delay... I had to get home to post it...

mtgoat
11-18-2008, 08:11 AM
Darin, I noticed you've cut off the end of the anti-cav plate in the above pic. Is this so you could mount a larger prop?

Stinger9D9
11-19-2008, 06:28 AM
Darin, I noticed you've cut off the end of the anti-cav plate in the above pic. Is this so you could mount a larger prop?


On my REK, I cut the cav plate off just far enough to clear the props I wanted to run. I put the water pickup on the back of the right sponson... let's you run ANY prop you want! ;)


Ummm, yeah, probably

:huh:

mtgoat
11-19-2008, 07:25 AM
:doh:

crazzy maxx
11-28-2008, 10:10 AM
i can find that Hi-Jack 3.5 mount anywhere any suggestions. i may have to make one...

ice329
02-07-2009, 01:53 PM
Oh boy... I was gonna give it up because I really did not like how the boat ran. I put it up on swap then said I am not a quiter. Oh boy I tore this thing up. I cut things off I never thought I would even consider. I even cut half the top of the transom that gets in the way for the stearing arms, no more extension arms on the motor. It is still plenty strong with the top inch cut off. I cut the high spot out where the original gas tank would go, I cut the deck all the way up to where the original battery box. I built a new one that will sit about 2 inches lower in the hull basically right on the floor of the hull, it will also add support to a few things. I even cut the cowl back about 4 inches. I may only use the nose, not sure if I will even use it at all... anyway I am gonna need a lesson 101 in fiberglassing. I lightened the boat by about 1 3/4 - 2 pounds depending on what I do with the cowl. If I dont like it after all this, I will burn it...heheh

properchopper
02-07-2009, 02:43 PM
Joey Bro, I feel your pain. After building 2 TS-2's & having lots of trimming problems, I built a VS-1. It's faster & handles perfectly; corners FLAT. With all the work you're about to perform, why not just put the effort into a VS-1 ?
OTOH, I'm going to rig the second TS-2 [JS-2] for an attempt at the NAMBA SAW P-OPC record {@60 mph] this year. Actually the VS-1 would be a better boat for SAW, but I don't want to take a perfect heat race boat & change anything.

ice329
02-07-2009, 03:20 PM
You have no Idea how many times I almost ordered the VS1 but in the end I didnt and I do like this TS2, so I thought let me really tear into it and correct what I feel is wrong with it (for electric) it may be great for gas but in my opinion at least for the SV powerplant its heavy, especially nose heavy. I eliminated the front box and moved the cowl back. moved everything back and lower the CG a lot and its gonna be a bit further back. That cowl itself is a load at around a pound. Its a project... and I wanted to learn a little glass work anyhow. I wont have much but I will have a little. Who knows... maybe after 20 more hours of messing with it, I will like it... hahaha

bigwaveohs
10-17-2009, 07:13 PM
Joey Bro, I feel your pain. After building 2 TS-2's & having lots of trimming problems, I built a VS-1. It's faster & handles perfectly; corners FLAT. With all the work you're about to perform, why not just put the effort into a VS-1 ?
OTOH, I'm going to rig the second TS-2 [JS-2] for an attempt at the NAMBA SAW P-OPC record {@60 mph] this year. Actually the VS-1 would be a better boat for SAW, but I don't want to take a perfect heat race boat & change anything.

As an expert with the VS-1 hull, does it need "stumble blocks" to help cornering? I'm going to be setting one up here in NoCal.
Thanks

properchopper
10-17-2009, 08:01 PM
As an expert with the VS-1 hull, does it need "stumble blocks" to help cornering? I'm going to be setting one up here in NoCal.
Thanks

The VS-1 kit has the stumble blocks already bonded to the hull. First time I've been called an "expert" - you must have me confused with Darin or someone like him :laugh:
Set up correctly, the VS-1 totally rocks !

cybercrxt
10-17-2009, 08:01 PM
Peter, The VS1 comes with the stumble blocks already factory mounted. When you get my hull and get the motor and electrics dropped in, you will see what this boat can do! It turns on a dime! Mike

bigwaveohs
10-17-2009, 09:02 PM
Excellent!

bustitup
12-13-2009, 05:10 PM
opinions on this lower unit please....is a cavitation plate a must?

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts1.jpg

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts3.jpg

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts4.jpg

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts7.jpg

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts8.jpg

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/ts9.jpg

bustitup
12-14-2009, 09:17 AM
no one have an opinion on no cav. plate?..........is that a no no.......really
could use some feedback on this k&b modded outboard

you can hurt my feelings i can take it

NativePaul
12-14-2009, 01:20 PM
I've never used one so cant be sure but I would have thought that if you have it mounted up high so it operates in surface drive mode I cant see how a cavitation plate would be of any use.

bustitup
12-14-2009, 01:37 PM
I've never used one so cant be sure but I would have thought that if you have it mounted up high so it operates in surface drive mode I cant see how a cavitation plate would be of any use.


Makes good sence

properchopper
12-14-2009, 01:41 PM
I seem to remember a discussion of this on the IW outboard forum, but I can't locate it. If you post the question there I'm sure you'll get some answers. What I do know is that quite a few REK users have trimmed it off to run larger diameter props with good success, apparently.