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View Full Version : Removing decals and painting upper surface of hull.



Colby
01-27-2010, 10:42 PM
Just got my new UL-1 and can't wait to persoanlize it. I ordered white so I would have greater paint color scheme options. I'm not wanting to paint the entire top surface of the hull, just a design, so I would like to use an airbrush versus a rattle can. I've painted many lexan RC car bodies but that was lexan. Will lexan paint adhere to the hull surface of the UL-1? I've searched this forum for painting questions but only found a thread regarding painting the plastic hatch. Also will be needing to remove the decals. I did find an older thread on doing this and it appears they will peel off if done carefully and an application of heat will help ... is this still the best method of removing the pre-applied decals.
Thanks for the feedback. :olleyes:

Capt. Crash
01-28-2010, 08:38 AM
I just peeled mine off (no heat) and used orange glow to get the sticky off then followed with alcohol. I used Wally World Krylon and painted the hull and hatch to match since they are different colors of white.

hyrulejedi86
06-16-2010, 11:24 AM
I am just now looking into doing this. However I want to paint a white hull (it's the only one i've been able to find) Red (different red than the red one) and put a couple custom designs on it. Any suggestions on how to paint the whole thing without affecting the performance?

Also, do you need to seal it with a clear coat of something afterward?

BondoBrushless
06-16-2010, 01:59 PM
Lexan paint would not be recomended.

If you want to use a air brush I'd get some plastic model paint and reduce it with either laquer thinner or mineral spirits. I'd suggest laquer or urathane clear over the design or better yet spray a coat over the whole top to minimise the paint line of the design.

Use grey scotchbrite or wetsand with 1000 grit prior to spraying.

If the boat is new and hasn't spent much time in the sun the decals should peel off easily, if heat is needed use the wifes hairdryer. Any adhesive residue will be softened and easily removed with a rag soaked with normal rubbing alcohol.

I'd try to stay away from painting the bottom of the hull, you hardley see it anyway ? Save yourself some work.

Diesel6401
06-16-2010, 05:45 PM
I paint all my boats. I use Testors model paint. I peel off the decals then I use WD-40, (that's right, WD-40) and a clean cloth to get rid of the sticky residue. After that I wipe the boat clean with rubbing alcohol, then I use red scotch brite pads and scuff the hull completly paying close attention to any curves making sure you get into creases. After that I wipe clean with alcohol again and paint. I do paint the bottoms, only thing I dont do to the bottom is clear coat it, leave the bottom scuffed and rough. After that I let set for a few days. Check my profile if you want, I think my paint jobs come out good.

dana
06-16-2010, 06:24 PM
be careful not to use lacquer on top of enamal... it will lift. you can however use enamal on top of lacquer. you could paint it then take it to a local body shop and ask them to clear it with urethane. thats the best look. im sure they could do it cheap =)

BondoBrushless
06-16-2010, 06:47 PM
I can see WD40 working for adhesive residue removal, it does has some solvents in the mix and no silicone.
I worked at a bodyshop 20+yrs ago and the guys used unleaded gas to wipe cars down with prior to spraying. Only Slightly dangerous:flashfire:

Diesel6401
06-16-2010, 09:23 PM
I can see WD40 working for adhesive residue removal, it does has some solvents in the mix and no silicone.
I worked at a bodyshop 20+yrs ago and the guys used unleaded gas to wipe cars down with prior to spraying. Only Slightly dangerous:flashfire:

Yea, diesel (gas, not me) works great on removing bug guts and other paint imperfections from cars pretty well also.

hyrulejedi86
06-17-2010, 12:30 AM
This is really great information! So, would you just use a clear enamel to finish the job? That is if I didnt want to ask a body shop to do it for me.

Diesel, I saw some of yours they do look good!

BondoBrushless
06-17-2010, 10:11 AM
This is really great information! So, would you just use a clear enamel to finish the job? That is if I didnt want to ask a body shop to do it for me.

Diesel, I saw some of yours they do look good!

Yeah theres Enamel clear that'll work but you need to watch which you use.
Ideally a Automotive enamel clear that requires a catalyst, but if you do all that might as well get Urathane instead ?
If your thinking spray bomb enamel clear just get a good brand with heavy solids if possible.

Shooter
07-01-2010, 12:36 AM
WD-40. Great idea!! I usually use laquer thinner to remove the adhesive, but I bet WD-40 is less aggressive. Some materials get weak after laquer thinner is applied.