ProBoat HyperSport 48 Gas Mono - Prep for Racing

[Darin Jordan]

I know this isn't FE, but I thought maybe a person or two out there might be interesting in seeing someone attempt to race-prep the ProBoat HyperSport 48.

I plan on racing this this season, either in G1-Mono or Offshore, if District 8 offers these, or in the Open class, which I know they do.

I'm NOT figuring on this being a front-running, competitive package, but I want to get some stick time with a Gas boat, and I want to see just how far something like this can be pushed. It's also always fun to prove people wrong who enter these endevours with certain biases and tell you that it "can't be done"... or that it'll "never work"....

Hang onto your shirts guys! This will be a longer term project, but by the time I'm done with this, it'll have a moded Zen or RCMK motor in it, and we'll find out just how hard you can push this hull!

First step, get it unpackaged!

Boat comes nicely packaged in a BIG box! Includes a decent stand that needs to be glued together if you don't want it to be coming apart all the time.

Also comes complete with a DX3S Spektrum system and MR3000 RX. BING-BING!! Won't be needing this TX for now, so I'll leave it package up.

[Darin Jordan]

Here are a few more initial shots....

Hull quality is pretty nice, especially for a RTR hull. Layout is nice as well. Some features include a metal geared heavy steering servo with aluminum arm, a drop-in sealed radio box, and really decent quality hardware. Hardware is very heavy-duty on this one. An easily accessible Zen G260PUM motor motivates this package. Cannister muffler and side exist exhaust are questionable to me, but we'll give it a whirl before we likely swap that stuff out with a tuned pipe, rear-exit setup.

[Darin Jordan]

Having run the Production Sample of this boat during the 2009 NAMBA Nationals, one thing I noticed, that hasn't been changed for Production, was the rather whimpy steering rod. If you don't have precise steering, then you can't drive precisely, so this is the first upgrade.

I cut a piece of 4-40 steering rod to length and soldered on a second threaded end. Just for good measure, I epoxied a piece of carbon fiber rod over the outside. This thing isn't flexing again! Keep in mind, that any give you take out of something, means the loads that thing was absorbing will be transfered upstream. In this case, the servo will take the extra load, as will it's mount. I need to look up the specs, but I believe this is only a 50 or 60 oz-in servo in there. This will get replaced with a new, MUCH higher oz-in servo as soon as I get one here. It's a big, heavy boat, and there is no use in taking chances or waiting for a lighter component to fail.

I decided to use some Duratrax heavy duty ball-style rode ends for this linkage, so I drilled and tapped the aluminum steering arms for 4-40 threads so I can bolt on the new linkage.

Also found a new use for my old Tamiya T-Wrench! Fits the stock little nuts on the linkage mounting perfectly... ;)

(Also just noticed that in the last picture, the rod-end is mounted to the bottom of the servo arm, rather than on top... Umph! :D )

[Jeepers]

Cool! Darin,

I would give that exhaust a whirl as well...... right into the trash can!

[Darin Jordan]

Cool! Darin,

I would give that exhaust a whirl as well...... right into the trash can!

Ha-Ha... Yah.. I'm already looking into a tuned pipe and header assembly... Need to save up the $200.00 or so it'll take to get it here.

I'm working on mounting some trim-tabs and turn fins now. I'll have an update with pics shortly.

[Rumdog]

Why is it that the gassers use that nice cone with a set screw in front of the strut to keep from losing a shft but we FE'ers do not? I understand that the flex winds up under acc. This is why we leave a gap between the drive dog and strut, soooo how is it that gassers do not have the same problem????

[Bill-SOCAL]

There are two kinds of flex drives, one that uses a collet and what is called a "square drive". FE uses mostly the collet type where you tighten down on a collet at the motor to retain the shaft.

In a square drive the font of the cable is square and floats in a square fitting at the motor end. It can move fore and aft a bit, hence no worries about wind up. At the rear there is a short shaft with the prop and a fitting in front of the skeg with the cone you see. The flex is soldered into the forward end of the cone and the set screws tighten on the prop soft. You undo the set screws to release the flex from the shaft and to remove the flex to lube it.

Some guys swear by the square drive others by the collet. Both work fine when properly installed.

[Rumdog]

ahhhh, thank you sir! I have zero experience with gassers but I would like to do one in the future. I like the looks of this guy for a big "play" boat.

[Darin Jordan]

The odd thing about the ProBoat setup, and they do this on their smaller FE boats as well, is that the motor has a standard coupler on it that tightens down on the flex. The cable ends at the cone in front of the strut. The code attaches to the stub shaft via a set screw.

I'll take a breakdown picture of this to post here. It's a silly system, because you have to remove the strut itself to get the cable out to lube it... losing your strut settings.

I may update this to a more standard system later, but we'll see how this one holds up first. I have already made adapters to adapt standards 1/4" ID props to the 5mm stub shaft...

For future offerings, I'm working to convince ProBoat that it would be better for the US market to use 3/16" and 1/4" stub-shaft sizes... We'll have to see if I'm getting through.

[Bill-SOCAL]

That is weird!!

[Darin Jordan]

That is weird!!

Here is what the strut looks like broken down....

[Darin Jordan]

In prepping to fit the trim tabs, I located them on the hull and marked the holes. On the right side, I had to trim the tab bracket to clear the rudder mount. The made it necessary to locate a new hole on the bracket as well.

The transom on the HS48 ihas a THICK plywood backing, which is great, but it doesn't extend quite far enough to mount the outter trim tab holes, so I will need to make a filler piece to glue into the hull. We'll be plugging the drain hole in the process. Turkey basters work just fine for getting any water out... ;)

[Darin Jordan]

To make the filler pieces for the transom, I made a template using aluminum foil pressed into the area to get the outline. I then made plywood pieces to match. Fit turned out pretty good. I epoxied them in place with a generous amount of thick epoxy and let dry. Once they were firmly in place, I finished drilling up the transom with 1/4" holes to hold the 8-32" T-Nuts.

[Darin Jordan]

Trim Tabs fully mounted with 8-32 Stainless hardware. I angle cut the inside of each to provide a little more clearance in front of the prop. They are solid and ready to go to work.

Also seen here is the new steering linkage mounted. Much more solid than the stock setup. I have a new Spektrum digital steering servo on the way that has 270+ oz/in of torque (Spektrum A6030), which should help maintain control of this big craft.

Next step will be to figure out how to mount a set of turn fins... at least on the right side. Hmmmmm.....

[Jeepers]

Looks Good!!!

[Bill-SOCAL]

Next step will be to figure out how to mount a set of turn fins... at least on the right side. Hmmmmm.....

I did not realize how little room you had to work with on the transom. If I had to choose between trim tabs or a turn fin (right side) I would choose the turn fin.

Looks good otherwise.

[Darin Jordan]

I did not realize how little room you had to work with on the transom. If I had to choose between trim tabs or a turn fin (right side) I would choose the turn fin.

Looks good otherwise.

Ya... I have something in mind for a turn-fin mount. I'll get it in there! ;)

[Jeff Wohlt]

Darin, I would be glad to make any shaft you need for that.

[Darin Jordan]

The new Spektrum Steering servo arrived... I'm using one of the new Spektrum Digital servos, in this case, an A6030, ("A" is for "Air"... The "S" series designate "surface" servos... ). The A6030 has metal gears, dual bearings, and over 270 in/oz of torque, so it should be up to the task.

After mounting the servo in the stock location, I made a new antenna mount, using a 3/16" aluminum wide flanged pop-rivet epoxied just above where I mounted the MR3000 Rx... The stock antenna location is outboard of the radio box, but it just seems to make more sense to me to just put it in the radio box lid. Gets the antenna up a tad higher as well.

I think I'll order a 6V RX pack as well, so I'll wait to secure the radio box lid until after I get the new pack.

[Darin Jordan]

To help channel air into the engine bay, and also get heat out, I opened up the stock scoop on top of the hatch, and I added some venting holes to the back of the hatch area.

I'll see how this works, and test it with and without the hatch, to see if additional fresh air is needed...

[Bill-SOCAL]

I'd hog out the entire rear exit above the radio box. Hot air is your enemy and you want to make sure you let the engine breathe.

I have also seen a few guys cut out the left side of the windscreen and install a fine mesh screen there. Gets lots of air that way and the screen helps reduce the possibility of getting washed out. On this hull you might think about doing that to the port side "window".

[Darin Jordan]

Time to mount some turn fins... I got these from right here on Offshoreelectrics.com. They are the "Extra Large" turn fins, and measure 90mm or so in length (about 3.6").

There isn't a lot of transom space to work with, but I think I figured out a good solution... I mounted them to the trimtab mounts and it turned out great.

First, remove the area from the supplied brackets, marked in black in the picture. I don't have a mill, so I just used a belt sander. Took about 45 seconds to do this, so no big deal...

Next, I opened up the inside hole to pick up the existing hole in the trim tab bracket. After lining everything up, I marked the outter holes location, then drilled it out to tap it to 4-40.

[Darin Jordan]

After tapping the new hole in the trim tab bracket to 4-40 and deburring, I installed a short stainless 4-40 screw.

Reinstall the trib tabs and that's pretty much it. Fins are solidly mounted and ready for action.

Repeat for the other side.

Fins look a little small to me, but now that the brackets are mounted, one can adjust as necessary.

All told, took about 20 minutes total. VERY easy upgrade...

[Darin Jordan]

Here are a few more shots of the mounting...

[Darin Jordan]

I'd hog out the entire rear exit above the radio box. Hot air is your enemy and you want to make sure you let the engine breathe.


Bill... I may be hogging some more out out of necessity... will have to see what needs to be done to fit a pipe in this thing....

[Darin Jordan]

Got the strut and driveshaft reinstalled.... pretty much done at the tail-end.

Going to add some drain holes in the back, but I have a plan that'll look pretty cool... will get to that shortly. I'm going to wait and see where the tuned pipe will exit first.

[bigcam406]

anymore updates on your mods? i curious to see how the tuned pipe can be mounted on the boat.im thinking about grabbing one of these,like the looks and the price,plus it doesnt have a clutch.there were 2 reviews recently in RCCAR and RCDRIVER,both said the same thing,great boat,great fun,lousy place for the exhaust (even though it was quieter than normal).keep us posted.thx

[Darin Jordan]

anymore updates on your mods? i curious to see how the tuned pipe can be mounted on the boat.im thinking about grabbing one of these,like the looks and the price,plus it doesnt have a clutch.there were 2 reviews recently in RCCAR and RCDRIVER,both said the same thing,great boat,great fun,lousy place for the exhaust (even though it was quieter than normal).keep us posted.thx


I haven't fitted the tuned pipe yet, though I do have one here... It doesn't look like getting it into the boat is going to be an issue. It still remains to be see, however, how cleanly I can position the exit of that pipe. I don't want to put a big gaping hole back there, so I'm going to take my time to get it as close to "just right" as I can. I'm going to run it for a few tanks with the stock exhaust to do the breakin and initial baseline runs... I'm taking off the additional hardware as well for this. Want to be able to gauge each update for effectiveness.


I did fire it up the other day to get the initial breakin done. I'm not happy with the throttle cable setup, so I'm going to be updating that here next, before I hit the water. It's OK, but for racing, it's going to need to be more precise and repeatable. I'll be back to working on it again once some more pieces arrive.

[bigcam406]

thx for the response.im curious to see how the tuned pipe will look.im thinking the exhaust is one of the biggest drawbacks on that boat from a design point.but the reviews say its quieter than normal,perfect for running at a park etc. but not for racing.im curious as to what props would compliment the stock zenoah as well.keep us posted.

[mickvk]

Darin, very nice work. I didn't think the steering would be weak, but now that you mention it, yeah. You're right. I look forward to your impression of your changes for further consideration - especially the muffler. Are you going to log RPMS/speed?

I appreciate you pointing me to the turn fins you chose.. I'm curious, which trim tabs are you using? If unknown, no problem, I can eye ball it.

Thanks. -Mick

[Darin Jordan]

I'm curious, which trim tabs are you using? If unknown, no problem, I can eye ball it.

Thanks. -Mick

I think they are SpeedMasters, but I don't really know. I just had them laying around and got them in a bunch of parts someone sent me...

[Darin Jordan]

Completed a new throttle assembly this weekend. Started with a Dubro 4-40 sized throttle cable and an RC Car style ball end assembly. After mounting the ball into the throttle shaft plate, I modified the female portion to shorten it a bit and soldered the threaded end onto the cable.

I fabbed a new throttle bracket out of much thicker aluminum, which also allowed me to move the cable slightly to help with alignment.

The cable ends were purchased from Warehouse Hobbies. They use the fuel tubing to hold the cable housing in place. I added some panduits (zip ties) to ensure that the housing would stay put.

I removed the radio box, added a piece of reinforcing carbon to the exit point, and installed the other cable housing end.

With everything in place, the thottle action is more precise and holds idle much better.

After some testing and breakin, I'll get to work on the tuned pipe.

[Darin Jordan]

Here is a cell phone video that my neighbor took during my first test run today. Didn't capture much of the full throttle stuff, but the boat ran really well. Hull runs VERY light in the water... but really stable. Initial prop was an ABC 2514/3. Handling was really nice, even in the rather choppy water today.

After the second run, the boat slowed some, and when I got it back home, the spark plug was very loose, so I suspect that was the issue. I'll go over all the carb settings and such just to make sure, but the plug color looked really good.

Can't wait to put some more time on her!

This is a .mpg video, so you'll need Quicktime or the appropriate plugin to play.

HyperSport 48 first run (http://www.banzaihydrosports.com/video/HS48_First_Run.mpg)

[AndyKunz]

You're slacking off, Darin. That wasn't in my e-mail in-bin this morning. I think I'm going to have to talk to somebody about your team membership ;)

Andy

[Darin Jordan]

You're slacking off, Darin. That wasn't in my e-mail in-bin this morning. I think I'm going to have to talk to somebody about your team membership ;)

Andy

Sorry about that... it's a crappy video... so I didn't think it was worthy!

[crabstick]

Hi Darrin, not sure what type of pipe you are going to fit, bit a Quickdraw Deep Vee Hotpipe would give you very good bang for buck.

[Darin Jordan]

Hi Darrin, not sure what type of pipe you are going to fit, bit a Quickdraw Deep Vee Hotpipe would give you very good bang for buck.

Thanks... I have an M&D pipe here that I may put on it, though I'm also considering trying a different one... we'll see when I get to that point.

[crabstick]

with the DV hotpipe you will be able to keep the pipe inside the boat and still have a fair bit of room for pipe length adjustment
http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7915/deepveehotpipe.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/i/deepveehotpipe.jpg/)

This is a Cat, but you get the idea. see there is still plenty of room inside the boat for the external muffler even

[Darin Jordan]

Well... I figured out why I experienced a sudden loss of power/speed when I was out testing...

Starting fitting things for the new tuned pipe, and found a little item in the exhaust outlet... That explains it.

Worked out a way to fit a standard racing pipe on here, but it's going to require a 110-degree header, or something similiar, to wrap the pipe back around towards the radio box. Chasing down parts... news at 11:00...

I may look into that QuickDraw DV Hotpipe... Looks like that would be an interesting option...

[mickvk]

Are you going to GPS it before and after? I would be curious to know the difference. Thanks.

[Darin Jordan]

I didn't bother to GPS it before... It was doing like every other big gas RTR does... around 40 or so with an aftermarket prop...

Got the pipe install finished last night. Pretty simple and quick to do. Fabbed some mounting brackets to run off the existing hardware. Drilled them up and layed a little polish/buffing to it, just because I could.

The header pipe is a 7/8" 105-degree Stainless header and No-Leak flange from CC-Racing (http://www.cc-racingengines.com). Pipe is an M&D (http://www.mddracing.com/) with integrated muffler. The extra muffler on the end there is a ProBoat Miss Bud 1/8th muffler. Just put it on to make sure it would fit, but likely won't be running it. Shouldn't need to anyhow.

Just have to finish plugging the factory exhaust hole in the side of the hull, and hook the water lines back up, and she's ready for the lake.

Would have liked to have the exhaust tucked up inside the hull a little nicer, but the cleanest way to do that would have been to purchase a $350.00+ QuickDraw DV QuietPipe, and that's a lot of bread. Plus, it's not as flexible for testing/trying other pipes for tuning, especially once I go to a Mod motor...

[Darin Jordan]

Here are a couple more shots showing the whole thing...

[mickvk]

Nice work. I guess it's not a sleeper anymore!! :)

[bigcam406]

great work! :thumbup1:

[Darin Jordan]

Made another small update last night...

I added a water exit port to the back of the hull, using a rectangle of plywood and some brass tubing. Drilled a 3/16" hole in deck at the back of the hull, just to the left of the center "hump", and epoxied the brass tubing into a 3/16" hole in the plywood. Then glued the plywood into the hull with the brass extending through the hole in the deck. I put in a pair of stainless screws just for good measure.

I then added a tap to the exit of the muffler and ran the water line up to this tap.

Not sure if this is the way it's "suppose" to be done, but I'll give it a try. At least until some Gas expert comes along and tells me I'm all wet and should have done it another way...

It's already fairly quiet. This should help quiet it a little bit more.

[D&D]

I always ran a square drive on all of my nitro boats. I wanted to run square drive again on the electric that I am building, but could not find a square drive "nut" for a 5mm motor shaft.

For anyone trying a square drive system the biggest problem is finding good durable bearings to fit between the prop and the strut (that's where all the load is). Areomarine sells a set that is very good and durable, it is two outer metal washers (infused, I believe, with some sort of lubricant) with a hard plastic washer inbetween. I'm going to run the bearings on my new build even though I have a thrust bearing at the motor.

[Darin Jordan]

Alright Guys... Racing Gas is a BLAST! Loved it!

Ran the HyperSport at the NAMBA District 8 Race #1 this weekend, and had a lot of fun.

They didn't offer G1-Mono at this event, so I had to run in Open Gas. Interesting enough, since Brian Buaas was there as well, with his new Grim Reaper Gas Outrigger... HOLY CRAP that's a fast boat!

There were two heats due to the number of boats... Outriggers, a Gas Sport Hydro, Thunderboats, a big Gas Cat... and little 'ol me!

Managed to drive well enough to get a 2nd in the first heat, and a 1st in the second heat... then broke the flex cable on the third heat while on the last lap and in a clear second place... ended my day.

I'm going to replace the cable with a squaredrive setup I think, since this has a captured stub shaft style strut anyhow. The cable broke RIGHT at the compression coupler, likely due to an alignment issue with the motor vs. the stuffing tube.

Might work on getting the pipe installed inside the boat, and also have a few other tweaks that I'm going to consider.

Otherwise, it was pretty much trouble free. In fact, several vetran racers commented that it was one of the best driving/handling RTR gas boats they'd ever seen. That's pretty cool! Needs to be freed up a tad, as it really pics up speed when the water gets churned up.

Jerry Dunlap took some GREAT shots... here are a couple....

[mickvk]

Agreed, great pics.

I had mine out for it's first run. I agree that it handles phenomenally but is a little too tight. When greasing the flex shaft, I marked the total adjustment of the prop angle with a dremel and left the angle just about neutral. I'm going to give that a bump towards positive and see if it gets the bow up out of the water a little... -Mick

[Darin Jordan]

I agree that it handles phenomenally but is a little too tight.

Mick, What prop are you running???

[mickvk]

Mick, What prop are you running???

Stock aluminum 70mm. A buddy of mine has an assortment of props that I will try when we get together. I will GPS them and let you know what happens.

The only change I made to the boat was upgrading the steering servo and pushrod since it was bent in shipping.

[Darin Jordan]

Stock aluminum 70mm. A buddy of mine has an assortment of props that I will try when we get together. I will GPS them and let you know what happens.

The only change I made to the boat was upgrading the steering servo and pushrod since it was bent in shipping.


If you have access... try running an ABC 2514/3, or even a 2614/3... I tried a variety of props this weekend, and ended up running the 2614/3 and it worked really well...

I ran the 2514/3 on the bone stock boat, and it's a dramatic improvement over the stock aluminum piece... Might not think the boat is as tight after changing to that prop...

[mickvk]

I know this is OS"E", but I am going to continue the HyperSport 48 discussion... During my first run my motor overheated. Found that the exhaust pressure was pushing backwards through the water cooling line because the line was blackened on the inside. I removed the line from the exhaust and re tested the boat. I saw that water was now flowing.

I tested the air resistance and don't seem to detect a problem through any component of the system. I guess I'll just mount a water exit in the side.

Unless anybody has any other insight?
Thanks. -Mick

[Darin Jordan]

OK Gang... this is going to be my last series of updates to this thread. I've done the mods I wanted to do, raced the boat, and have seen the results.

Since the last update, I've done a few mods.

First, I tore out the original stuffing box, reinforced the hull in that area with a layer of 6oz carbon fiber weave, and installed a new, linerless 5/16" brass stuffing tube. This also included slotting the transom to allow the stuffing tube to be moved up and down, so full strut adjustment was now possible.

I also installed a Killer Bee 3rd channel kill switch. Works great.

I installed a Gizmo GZ-1 top end kit, zero drag seals, and a CC Racing carb isolator plate to the original Zen 260.

I modified the strut by drilling it out to accept the correct brass tubing to support a standard .250 stub shaft assembly, and installed a stubshaft with a bolt-on squaredrive nosepiece. Flexshaft was replaced with a standard flex with squaredrive on the tail end.

Finally, I replaced the M&D steel pipe with a Cooper Quiet pipe.

[Darin Jordan]

Here are a few more pics of the updates... I also trimmed out an opening in the hatch, which allows me to get to the pull starter and carb, without having to remove the hatch. Race motors need ventalation anyhow, so this will help that too.

[Darin Jordan]

So, now for the performance report.

After some breakin time on the new motor, I filled the tank, and, running an ABC 2614/3 prop, went out for the first heat of Open Gas... The boat was REALLY FAST. The motor was STRONG... too strong for the hull as it was set-up. It was a handful to drive and quite dicey in the turns.

After making it 5 of the 6-laps, I stalled it after a bad hop.

After running the next heat in Gas Mono and almost flipping the boat, I knew something needed to be done to help settle the boat down. It appeared to me that the CG was too far back for this much power. My solution was simple... Not having any lead available, and seeing that we were racing in a rock quary, I found two nice round ROCKS, and placed one on either side of the tank in the bottom of the hull and secured them in place, surrounding them with pool noodles. Total weight, I found out later, was 2lbs 11oz...

NIGHT AND DAY difference!! I went out and the boat was AWESOME to drive. I was able to run out front and would have won the heat had I not cut a buoy trying to run lane 1/2 while holding off a slightly faster Open Gas boat. Running the boat with the extra weight tightened it up quite a bit, which obviously slowed it down a bit, but as the fuel burned off, it go slowly faster and faster. Taking some of the tab out of it would have helped as well.

Racing was going well, but I noticed that the strut bushings I had made from brass were getting sloppy. The pics below show why. They simply wouldn't hold grease and kept getting dry, tearing them to pieces. Not a great idea, apparently. Something more substantial would have to be done in the future.

One other thing I found was that the bolt-on squaredrive nosepiece was cracked at every apex point of the squaredrive. I'm thinking a soldered version, or one made from stainless, would be a better idea. OR, using squaredrive at both ends maybe.

Overall, it was a great racing experience, and I have little doubt that, at least on a club level, this boat would be able to be competitive in the Gas Mono class, or maybe even Offshore. NOT saying it would be an ultimate front-runner, but I would have no problem keeping it in the hunt.

So, there you have it, my one and final modification and race report for this boat. If anyone got any pics or video from this weekends D8 race, I'll post them, but otherwise, the racing and modding of this boat is completed. You'll see why in the next post...

[Darin Jordan]

OK, so... Round 3 for Open Gas... I'm one of two boats that hit the start correctly, and was chasing down the leader's big (50"+) Gas Mono into turn 1 of the first lap, when he slid out to lane 3. So, I turned down into lane one and took a bad hop, stalling me right at the exit of turn two. A couple of laps later, the gas hydro was about to pass the leader on the outside, when the leader slid out wide. So, the hydro turned to go inside, and ended up driving THROUGH the side of my dead boat... OUCH. Forced retirement of this poor HS48! Luckily, none of the major components were damaged at all, but the hull is toast.

I think, had it been important, I could have taped it up enough to get through the final rounds, which would have been fun since I think I was leading Gas Mono at the time, but there wasn't anything important on the line, and I didn't want to risk my motor, so I retired it right there.

I was able, however, to recover my ROCKS, so that was a good thing! ;)

So, that's the end of this project. The Gizmo GZ-1 proved to be a real winner, and the mods I made definitely made it a competitive heat racing boat. I enjoyed tinkering on it immensly.

Time now to move on and put the motor into the Delta Force Sniper 45 I have here, and get serious about this!

Thanks for reading and for the help you've provided to get me going. Hope someone got something useful from this project.

I'll try to get some of the race photos from the day, and I think someone also took some video. It's worth seeing in action, because it really was quite impressive for an RTR...

[Chilli]

Nice report Darin. Sorry to hear of the demise of the Proboat. I'll be running my Sniper in the "stock gas" class at my district race for the first time this weekend. Our stock class is a little different. We allow tuned exhaust and any hull except riggers. We'll see if the Sniper can keep up with the cats and sport hydros.

[mickvk]

Darin, this is one great thread, terrific details. But jeez, you can't say the video would have been quite impressive for a "RTR"! :) You modified the motor, exhaust, shaft, hardware, steering... It looks like the only thing left is the original fuel tank!

Can't wait to see the next project.

[crabstick]

That will buff out!! :bounce: Just joking, Darin, always sad to see a hull put to rest, sounds like it was a sweet runner for a RTR hull.

Was wondering if you noticed a drop in power or a change in powerband when you changed from the steel pipe to the stainless? or Aluminum coopers quiet pipe.

[Darin Jordan]

Was wondering if you noticed a drop in power or a change in powerband when you changed from the steel pipe to the stainless? or Aluminum coopers quiet pipe.

I can't really answer that, because I never ran both pipes on the same motor... With the Cooper Quiet Pipe mounted to this new GZ-1 Top-end kit upgrade, the motor was STRONG, and, as a bonus, I was the only boat out of the 4 in Gas Mono that was legal on sound... 88db, vs. 94+ for most of the rest... and that was before I decided to add water injection into the stinger...

[bigcam406]

thanks for your efforts! i really enjoyed the thread and couldnt wait for the updates.its too bad the HP48 had to face such a tragic demise.ive been a fan of the boat ever since its debut,and i always wondered how it would perform modded.great work!:thumbup1:

[Darin Jordan]

thanks for your efforts! i really enjoyed the thread and couldnt wait for the updates.its too bad the HP48 had to face such a tragic demise.ive been a fan of the boat ever since its debut,and i always wondered how it would perform modded.great work!:thumbup1:

Thanks... I think if I were to do it again, I'd take the time up front to lay some reinforcing cloth to the inside of the ENTIRE HULL... In my opinion, it's layed up way too light for racing... It's fine for Sport running, but for all out competitive racing, you need more strength to survive things like this.

It COULD be repaired, but it would be a LOT of work. I already have the hull stripped down. Weighs just 5lbs 4oz, by the way... Would be fun as an FE hull...

[Darin Jordan]

Here are some action shots taken by Jerry Dunlap (gotta LOVE racing with a legend!!) before the demise... Was really having some fun!!

[mickvk]

Since this will live forever as "the" Hypersport thread, I'm going to show how much I'm enjoying mine. Only thing I upgraded was steering servo and push-rod. Runs 35 all day. Not real fast, but it boogies.

[bigcam406]

great pic. ive noticed on a few vids as well that owners are running them without the canopy,looks awesome and i bet it runs alot cooler as well.

[mickvk]

great pic. ive noticed on a few vids as well that owners are running them without the canopy,looks awesome and i bet it runs alot cooler as well.

Ya know, I'm kinda new at this - the only reason I'm running topless is because I am still working out some kinks - I thought the cooling water wasn't flowing with the positive pressure from the exhaust, but it turns out the over heating was because I was running lean.

[D&D]

If you decide to rebuild this or another I wanted to recomment soldering the nose piece, or as we called them "ferrell". I always soldered mine on 60 and 90 nitro boats and never had a problem with the "Ferrells". I also found a guy who would weld an aluminum stub onto the tuned pipe, made for a very secure connection. Nice writeup with a sad ending.

[flyboy23]

Hi Darin,

I am new to the site as well as R.C boating. I have running RC’s all my life things such 1/8 cars and truck various scale size planes and most recently 1/5 scale stuff. I picked up a hypersport 48 and I love the thing it’s my first ever RC boat. The only issue I have with it it’s slow to me and I want much more speed!!! Believe it or not this is the only forum I have found on the web for this boat. I have a few questions about the mods you have done. I want to add a tune pipe setup.

1. Do you know quick draw Hot Pipe deep vee pipe (shown by crabstick) will fit in the hull without any mods?

2. How did you plug the hole for the can pipe?
3. What kind of pipe mount did you use for the aftermarket pipe?

I would really like to use the Quick draw pipe (mainly for looks) but only if it fits with no mods. But if not would you recommend your set-up?
Thanks for all your help!

[Darin Jordan]

1. Do you know quick draw Hot Pipe deep vee pipe (shown by crabstick) will fit in the hull without any mods?

2. How did you plug the hole for the can pipe?
3. What kind of pipe mount did you use for the aftermarket pipe?

I would really like to use the Quick draw pipe (mainly for looks) but only if it fits with no mods. But if not would you recommend your set-up?
Thanks for all your help!


1 => I looked at the QD Hot Pipe and I do think it would fit. Might require a few mods, and some careful thinking about how to get it to exit cleanly.

2 => I just used a rubber stopper pushed into the existing coupling hose, and ran a zip-tie around it. Was going to glass up the hole in the side once I had everything in place and working and knew I wasn't turning back.

3 => I made the mount myself out of some aluminum material I had.

The BIGGEST increase in speed and performance came from updating the engine with the Gizmo Motors GZ-1 Top-End Kit... EASY to install, and increased power up to around 5.5hp with the pipe... REALLY woke this thing up.

[mickvk]

Hi Darin,

...The only issue I have with it it’s slow to me and I want much more speed!!!

Did you try increasing your strut angle? Mine at neutral was running 31 and felt slow. With a positive prop angle it's on the chine and feels fast - running 37 last time I checked, but that was still only my third tank of gas or so. Might be able to lean it out some more.

Quick Q for Darin: How much work is it to install the Gizmo sleeve kit out of curiosity? I can't easily find info on the procedure.

[flyboy23]

1 => I looked at the QD Hot Pipe and I do think it would fit. Might require a few mods, and some careful thinking about how to get it to exit cleanly.

2 => I just used a rubber stopper pushed into the existing coupling hose, and ran a zip-tie around it. Was going to glass up the hole in the side once I had everything in place and working and knew I wasn't turning back.

3 => I made the mount myself out of some aluminum material I had.

The BIGGEST increase in speed and performance came from updating the engine with the Gizmo Motors GZ-1 Top-End Kit... EASY to install, and increased power up to around 5.5hp with the pipe... REALLY woke this thing up.

Hey guys thanks for taking the time out to give some much needed advice to a newbie. I will to try out some positive angle on the prop strut, Also might go with the QD HotPipe and have the guy from my LHS install it for me just to retain to look (I not to great at fabing stuff). Quick question, If I upgrade to the Gizmo Motors GZ-1 Top-End Kit will I have to upgrade to a tuned pipe to get aleast 85%-90% of the 5.5hp you were getting. Once again guys thanks for the help.

[crabstick]

Quick question, If I upgrade to the Gizmo Motors GZ-1 Top-End Kit will I have to upgrade to a tuned pipe to get aleast 85%-90% of the 5.5hp you were getting. Once again guys thanks for the help.

I would definitely get a tuned pipe, without one you wont have much of a powerband due to the increased supercharging effect of a tuned pipe.

the QD or redline or CC racing Steel hotpipe will generally give you gains over a normal alloy pipe too.

[flyboy23]

Thanks Crabstick, I just wonder if it will fit nicely inside? I really wish more people who have this boat, were doing mods to it so I could have more to go off of.

[crabstick]

you can only try, the DV hotpipe is reasonably compact, but as the name says runs "hot".

http://abmarine.co.nz/index.php/ab-marine-pipes/deep-vee-pipe

Here are some good pics of a redline DV hotpipe..

[alconyers]

Your the man mr d im just getting started im getting my boat tomorrow and im just checking out some of the things youve done and i love it

[mickvk]

This is still practically the only Hypersport 48 thread around so I wanted to post a little fun I had this weekend... On board video run! It was my first try so the rear view isn't very good - need to widen out the shot. Next time. Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXUq41zkcGs

Plus a still action shot.

[AndyKunz]

Cool video!

Andy

[flyboy23]

Great video

[xxxrems38xxx]

Hi Darin,
I'll buy a shockwave 55 is it reliable water from the supersport 48?

[flyboy23]

Hey Darin, are you willing to part with your throttle linkage set up for hypersport 48?

[Darin Jordan]

Hey Darin, are you willing to part with your throttle linkage set up for hypersport 48?

I'm not even sure I still have it... Let me look...

[xxxrems38xxx]

Hello guys,

I have recently bought my new proboat hypersport 48 and I have make some changes on my boat under the guidance of Darin! I have ordered quite a few parts in "Bonzi Sport" (cylinder head, exhaust...), gizmomotors (linkage system for the carburetor, 26/14 ABC prop, and GZ-2 Kit for upgraded my zenoah!!), pmbmodelboat for the exhaust support, kintec racing for the hose cooling!

Here are some photos of my transformation!

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[xxxrems38xxx]

more pictures with wt 257 carburator....

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a big thank you to Darin who has given me many ideas! thanks

[Darin Jordan]

Looks good! One word of advice... With all that power, if you REALLY want to keep handling well and on the water, add about 2-3lbs of weight right around the motor on the CG. Boat will tighten up and run like CRAZY around the course and in the chop. Was too loose to race before I did this, and was running like a champ after...

[xxxrems38xxx]

Hi Darin,

I thought give it a try before adding weight, but if you say that the control of the boat is bad with all the power I will not risk losing it!!:flashfire: I had also thought to reinforce the hull with carbon fiber under the engine and trans! What do you think about that?

[Darin Jordan]

Hi Darin,

I thought give it a try before adding weight, but if you say that the control of the boat is bad with all the power I will not risk losing it!!:flashfire: I had also thought to reinforce the hull with carbon fiber under the engine and trans! What do you think about that?

The hull is WAY too thin, in my opinion, and can stand to be re-enforced wherever possible. The weight will not hurt you.

[xxxrems38xxx]

ok thanks Darin! i will post any pictures of this later and i will take more vids of my boat!! oh I forgot to tell you if it was necessary to change the transmission with the flex?

[xxxrems38xxx]

small change on my hypersport 48, I have painted the front for the competition to be held September 11 in France! Promised I would put photos of the day!

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[xxxrems38xxx]

Hi,

I continued on my topic hypersport 48, here are the photos of the day on September 11, and I would say that the hypersport 48 is a great boat with a gizmomotors V2 kit! Because I have finished 3 rd with him!6014960150601516015260153

[xxxrems38xxx]

again.....

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[mickvk]

I had a little trouble with my muffler loosening up, not getting proper cooling flow, and a weak steering pushrod - but now it's running like a top. I am very satisfied with it - though the hull lamination is pretty thin.

I have a tip for folks running the canister muffler too - since it retains water, it should be drained by rolling it to the exhaust side after each run. Otherwise, the water may inadvertently drain back into the cylinder resulting in rust (long term) or difficulty starting (short term).

[xxxrems38xxx]

another pictures...

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[xxxrems38xxx]

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[xxxrems38xxx]

Hi Darin,

What is the equivalent in two blade of 2514/3 or 2614/3? thank you!

[xxxrems38xxx]

Hi Darin,

What is the equivalent in two blade of 2514/3 or 2614/3? thank you!