Newbie Questions

[Unsullied_Spy]

I have a new UL-1 on order with my LHS and have been looking for what should be done to it at first. It seems that the stock water jacket is bad so I'll go ahead and get one of the upgraded ones from Steve. People have also said that the sponson is weak around the turn fin (there is only one, right?) and that it should be reinforced or it could crack after a lot of use or hitting something with the turn fin. It seems that the newer hulls have been beefed up a bit but if this is still a problem I'd like to address it before I crack my new hull. Is there anything I need to know or do out of the box? I have a pair of 2s 8000 mAH Maxamps lipos that I will be running at first until I can get some better lipos and I'm thinking of swapping out the stock prop for a K45 out of the box but I want to keep it simple and just have fun. I finally gave up on Sir Sinksalot, my SuperVee, after countless issues and now I just want something that I can run without having to swim for each time I take it out.

Edit:

Floatation: Sooner or later this thing is going to die on me and need to be recovered (fact of boating). Is there sufficient floation foam in the hull from the factory or do I need to do something to it to help it float until I can recover it?

[Grimracer]

Just a few hints based on your post


Stevens jacket is very simple and a good replacement if you choose to go that way. I would try the stock jacket first however. Just as a pre-run check, check the cooling system before you run the boat.

The weak sponson issue as been addressed from the factory. Unless your boat was built before June of this summer its going to be fine.

I would blueprint the sponson bottoms.. Flat sand the bottoms to remove any paint buildup. Its OK if you touch the glass underneath. Its not going to hurt anything.

Update to the Grimracer 36X55 prop.. I still find this about the best over all prop for the boat.

Don’t “Over tighten” the flex coupler..

The boat WILL NOT DEEP SIX..

Please never swim for a boat.. thanks!

ROCKON

Grimracer

[longballlumber]

I have a pair of 2s 8000 mAH Maxamps lipos that I will be running at first until I can get some better lipos and I'm thinking of swapping out the stock prop for a K45 out of the box but I want to keep it simple and just have fun.

In addition to Grim's comments, I would recommend running the stock 3 blade propeller for a while first. This prop requires no balancing or sharpening and it comes with the boat for a reason. It will provide 40+ MPH speeds and it's easy on the rest of the equipment (motor and speed control). As soon as you start putting larger props on the boat, you run a very high risk of damaging the speedo or motor. Get used the boat first, run it awhile, and learn how different adjustments affect the boat handling a speed.

Your batteries should be fine. I would suggest only running the boat for a set amount of time (2-2.5 min) then bring it in. I wouldn’t run the boat until the LVC kicks in. That will increase heat in your drive train, and decrease the life of your batteries.

Have Fun,
Mike

[LiPo Power]

I have a new UL-1 on order with my LHS and have been looking for what should be done to it at first. It seems that the stock water jacket is bad so I'll go ahead and get one of the upgraded ones from Steve. People have also said that the sponson is weak around the turn fin (there is only one, right?) and that it should be reinforced or it could crack after a lot of use or hitting something with the turn fin. It seems that the newer hulls have been beefed up a bit but if this is still a problem I'd like to address it before I crack my new hull. Is there anything I need to know or do out of the box? I have a pair of 2s 8000 mAH Maxamps lipos that I will be running at first until I can get some better lipos and I'm thinking of swapping out the stock prop for a K45 out of the box but I want to keep it simple and just have fun. I finally gave up on Sir Sinksalot, my SuperVee, after countless issues and now I just want something that I can run without having to swim for each time I take it out.

Edit:

Floatation: Sooner or later this thing is going to die on me and need to be recovered (fact of boating). Is there sufficient floation foam in the hull from the factory or do I need to do something to it to help it float until I can recover it?

Stock updated water jacket works on my boat just great. There was no tweeking to it on my side and holds up very well.
Have a fun with it quick, worm days are walking away fast, at least here in Ontario.... :smile:

[Unsullied_Spy]

If the new water jackets are improved, I will give that a shot first. I heard they leaked and had some issues so I may get the upgraded one anyway but run the stock one for the remainder of this season.

I had to back-order it, so surely I'm getting one fresh out of the factory so the hull should be OK? I may still get the Kintec external bracket but it looks like you have to gut part of the internals to get the internal bracket installed and I really don't want to cut it up unless I have to.

What grit of sandpaper would you recommend for the bottom? I have some 400 grit here, would that be fine? With the SuperVee people recommended that I scrub the bottom with a green Scotch Brite pad to rough it up a little so that air pockets would build up under it and reduce friction, should I do this to the UL-1 as well?

How do you know when the flex coupler is tight enough? I cranked down the Kintec 3 piece coupler in my SuperVee until it was snug and never had an issue with it coming loose but it also didn't like to come apart for flex shaft greasing.

Will that Grim Racer prop need sharpening and balancing? I had a 40x52 GR prop on my SuperVee and it cavitated horribly for at least 50 feet before finally hooking up and people said it wouldn't be as bad if I would sharpen and balance it ($20+ prop plus balancer and sharpen/balance stuff leads me to buy the Graupner CF props). I like the K series props because they are cheap, need no balancing, and I have never had issues with cavitation.

What is Deep Sixing?

My SuperVee sank the very first time I ran it and I had to go swimming for it, never again! I bought an inflatable raft and a 12v air pump for recovery, I'm wondering if the UL-1 will float or if I need to add some foam to it.

[longballlumber]

If the new water jackets are improved, I will give that a shot first. I heard they leaked and had some issues so I may get the upgraded one anyway but run the stock one for the remainder of this season.


As long as you have the correct parts for the water jacket it will work fine. Use some patience when putting it on and everything will be fine. Set it and forget it!




I had to back-order it, so surely I'm getting one fresh out of the factory so the hull should be OK? I may still get the Kintec external bracket but it looks like you have to gut part of the internals to get the internal bracket installed and I really don't want to cut it up unless I have to.


It sounds to me like you should have the hull with the updated turn fin area. In this case there is NO reason to cut open the hull to re-enforce that area. For the external bracket from Kintec, that is up to you. My boat is running and turning fin with the stock bracket. However, I have used Kintec's bracket on other hulls with great success.


What grit of sandpaper would you recommend for the bottom? I have some 400 grit here, would that be fine? With the SuperVee people recommended that I scrub the bottom with a green Scotch Brite pad to rough it up a little so that air pockets would build up under it and reduce friction, should I do this to the UL-1 as well?

400 grit will work fine. However, the key is to use something flat to put your sand paper on. A sanding block if you will. I like these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK314&P=0 The point here is to knock down any paint runs or high spots on the sponsons and keep everything nice and flat. Unlike the SV27 the UL-1 will only be riding on the prop and approximately the last 1" of the sponsons at full song. Once you sand them with 400 you will be fine. You don't need to sand anything else.


How do you know when the flex coupler is tight enough? I cranked down the Kintec 3 piece coupler in my SuperVee until it was snug and never had an issue with it coming loose but it also didn't like to come apart for flex shaft greasing.

Snug is a good word, not too tight and not too loose. Don't crank down on it with all of your might. You want it to come apart for greasing ever 3-4 runs.



Will that Grim Racer prop need sharpening and balancing? I had a 40x52 GR prop on my SuperVee and it cavitated horribly for at least 50 feet before finally hooking up and people said it wouldn't be as bad if I would sharpen and balance it ($20+ prop plus balancer and sharpen/balance stuff leads me to buy the Graupner CF props). I like the K series props because they are cheap, need no balancing, and I have never had issues with cavitation.

YES... Graupner CF props will work for the time being, but it will ultimately limit your choice on props. Sharpening and balancing props is not tough to learn, it just takes time and patience. Keep working on it and you will get it figured out. We all started out at the same point as you!



What is Deep Sixing?

He was talking about the boat sinking.



My SuperVee sank the very first time I ran it and I had to go swimming for it, never again! I bought an inflatable raft and a 12v air pump for recovery, I'm wondering if the UL-1 will float or if I need to add some foam to it.

The raft was a good idea. No Foam necessary.

Have fun,
Mike

[Unsullied_Spy]

So for the time being I don't think I'll even bother with it. If the stock water jacket leaks I'll order a new jacket (I've run OSE jackets before, they work great!) and a CF 45 or two but for now it really doesn't sound like I need anything. I am not real fond of 3 bladed props, I love the rooster tails they throw and how they look but those Graupner CF props hook n' book rather than cavitate halfway through the pond. I've got some good sized ponds around here but I'd rather punch the throttle and have the thing jump out of the water than sit there.

I have done some research into sharpening and balancing props and it seems like it's easy enough, but I don't know that I really feel like spending that much time and money on it. I have been really happy with my CF props in the past and unless I decide to try one of those GR lifter props I may just stick to the 45. Metal props are nice and I'm sure I will get a little extra speed out of them, but I will wait until next season to decide (probably have to stop running in November when the water temp gets too cold for even my raft).

So it has sufficient floatation from the factory, that's good to hear. I really like the raft, just paddle out to the boat and grab it and paddle back to shore. There's no chance of drowning unless you puncture the raft, paddling can be a good workout, and it's very relaxing if you aren't in a hurry.

[longballlumber]

Watch the heat in that 45mm prop... the stock 3 blad is only 40mm....

Mike

[Christaphason]

I have done some research into sharpening and balancing props and it seems like it's easy enough, but I don't know that I really feel like spending that much time and money on it. I have been really happy with my CF props in the past and unless I decide to try one of those GR lifter props I may just stick to the 45. Metal props are nice and I'm sure I will get a little extra speed out of them, but I will wait until next season to decide (probably have to stop running in November when the water temp gets too cold for even my raft).



I know to some this will sound crazy but i use Pneumatic Die Grinder with Blue(Very Fine Grit) and Gray(Ultra fine grit) pads. It really does not take that long and once you get the hang of it with a buffer sometimes you will get more than one prop done in an hour.

Now if you do not have access to an air compressor, a good ol' fashion file and sandpaper is the way to go, and yes it will take a while like this.

Look at it this way though, after you learn how to balance and sharpen them you can learn how to tweak your props for maximum performance!

Kintec offers a great magnetic prop balancer as does a few other manufacturers.

[Unsullied_Spy]

I have access to an air compressor but could I use a bit on my Dremel instead? It would be more convenient than the air compressor.

[bwells]

Air compressor?, die grinder? Tiny file and sand paper is what I use, Eggneg, help me out here

[longballlumber]

I use a Dremel with 1/4" sanding drums to get the blade thinned out.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=430

I then use diamond files to do the finish sharpening...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10440&filter=diamond%20sharpener

Lastly, I will use a dremel buffing wheel to clean the who thing up...
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=42&catname=Finishing+Abrasive+Buffs

[Drag Boat Bob]

Watch the heat in that 45mm prop... the stock 3 blad is only 40mm....

Mike

I agree with Mike. The K45 is similar to running the Octura M445 (same dia/pitch). This prop will tax the electronics so watch your temps.

As previously stated "start with short 2-2.5 min runs to see how things are heating up.

Good luck and have fun.

Bob